Before getting into this article, I’d like to state upfront that its intent is NOT to suggest that other people do what I have done in terms of choice of photographic equipment. Just because the 1″ sensor Nikon 1 system is the best choice for my specific needs does not mean it will be appropriate for other photographers. It very well may not be. I regularly get emails and calls at the office from people asking why I prefer shooting with Nikon 1 which I handle on an individual basis. Since I receive a good number of these inquiries each month, I thought I’d also respond in a public forum with this article.
The Nikon 1 system has been criticized vigorously ever since it was first introduced, and remains the camera system that many people love to hate. The focus of that criticism has typically been its small 1″ CX sensor. There’s no question that a small 1″ sensor pays a price when it comes to dynamic range, colour depth and low light performance when compared to larger formats like APS-C and full frame. It is also true that for photographers who need shallow depth of field, or good low light performance, this unique camera format is not a particularly good choice. No doubt there are also specific features that are required by some photographers that are not available on a Nikon 1 body. All of those factors limit the appeal of Nikon 1 for many photographers.
I originally stumbled onto the Nikon 1 system, rather than actively searching it out. At the time I was shooting my client videos with a Nikon D800 and I needed a second camera to capture additional angles when filming industrial video scenes. My D800 was certainly doing a credible job but I really didn’t want to spend that much money on a second full frame body.
Unfortunately most Nikon DSLRs during that period were not particularly well suited for video work as it was not possible to change aperture ‘on-the-fly’ when shooting video. One needed to go in and out of LiveView which was a pain as it wasted precious time when shooting on-site. The Nikon 1 V2 was an affordable option that provided ‘on-the-fly’ aperture adjustment when doing video. Plus, the FT-1 allowed me to use my existing collection of FX Nikkor glass. So, I decided to give it a whirl.
I can still remember the day when I picked up my first V2. I was stunned with how small and light it was, and immediately understood why many photographers called it a ‘toy’. Undaunted, I decided to keep it to see how it would perform. I found that it produced very good quality video with less chance of moire. When shooting video at ISO-800, or even up to ISO-1600, I discovered that there was no noticeable difference between the V2 and my D800 in terms of video quality or noise.
The V2 also metered almost identically with my D800 which meant I could use the same manual camera settings and not have to correct exposure in post. I used the kit 10-30 mm lens that came with my V2 and occasionally used the FT-1 with some FX glass. Nothing much changed in terms of my on-site client set up. I still hauled 3 to 5 studio lights with me for every assignment as I kept my exposure limited to ISO-800 for my industrial client video work. Using the V2 with the FT-1 with my Nikkor primes like the 28 mm, 50 mm and 85 mm gave me some additional flexibility. I started to like my Nikon 1 V2 more and more.
I began to play around with the Nikon 1 V2 for still photography and I used a few of my FX lenses with the Nikon 1 V2, by way of the FT-1 adapter, with good success. The Nikkor 70-200 mm f/4 and 85 mm f/1.8 prime being my two favourite lenses to use with the FT-1 adapter. I found that I could live with a single AF point in mid-frame and I enjoyed the 2.7X crop factor. Using the V2 gave me an equivalent 189-540 mm f/4 zoom and a 229 mm f/1.8 prime.
The tipping point happened when I bought the 1 Nikon 30-110 mm f/3.8-5.6 zoom and discovered how much I enjoyed the fast, flexible and accurate Nikon 1 auto-focusing system and the V2’s wonderful 15fps AFC rate. It didn’t take long before I added the 10-100 mm f/4.5-5.6 PD zoom which was stellar for my client video work. Then I invested in the 1 Nikon prime lenses, a couple of additional 1 Nikon zooms, and finally the excellent 1 Nikon CX 70-300 mm f/4.5-5.6 zoom.
As I began using my Nikon 1 gear more and more for client video work, my D800 began to collect dust. I discovered that using Nikon 1 made me at least 30% more time efficient on-site doing client video work as I no longer had to use my studio lights. Rather than shoot at my typical D800 video settings of 1/60, f/8, ISO-800, I could get the depth-of-field I needed by shooting at f/2.8, 1/60, ISO-800 with my Nikon 1 primes like the 10mm and 18.5mm. In very low light the 1 Nikon 32mm f/1.2 was simply outstanding. My clients didn’t care at all what camera gear I used. If anything, they loved the fact that their staff spent far less time onsite doing video shoots with me.
Recently I had to fly to Ottawa to do some client video work. I put all of the Nikon 1 camera gear I needed (3 V2 bodies, 8 Nikon 1 lenses, Nikon 1 flash, 4 extra V2 batteries), Vello Deluxe extension tubes, a travel tripod with head, two table top tripods, Lastolite EzyBalance calibration card, and a Genaray LED-7100T light in my Tamrac Professional Anvil Slim 15 Backpack. The shoot went off without a hitch, actually finishing up ahead of schedule.
Two years ago I sold my D800, all of my F-mount lenses, and my FT-1 adapter. My only regret is that I didn’t do it sooner. From a business standpoint I love Nikon 1 because it saves me on-site time as I no longer have to haul around, and set up, banks of studio lights when doing client videos. Getting in and out in 30% less time is great for me, and for my clients. I can’t directly attribute the growth of my video business during the past two years to exclusively using my Nikon 1 gear, but it certainly hasn’t hurt it at all.
It’s rather funny, but I’ve never thought about Nikon 1 as a mirrorless camera. I certainly never bought one with that as any kind of purchase consideration. I’ve always defined Nikon 1 in my mind as a 1″ sensor interchangeable lens camera system. To me that has always been how the system has been differentiated, and what makes it such a great, albeit underrated, system. Even if Nikon introduced a mirrorless camera that used an APS-C or full frame sensor, I would have absolutely no interest in going back to those camera formats. I’ve shot with both of them in the past. It just costs me far too much time shooting video with a larger sensor camera system.
My still photography for articles and photography E-books is now done with a pair of Nikon 1 J5s and a pair of Nikon 1 V3s. The 20.8MP BSI sensor in the J5 is a nice improvement over the Aptina sensors in previous Nikon 1 cameras. According to DxO test results, it delivers 12.0 EV of dynamic range and 22.1-bits of colour depth. While this pales next to APS-C and full frame sensors used in Sony and Nikon cameras, it is reasonably competitive with some cropped sensor Canon DSLRs. For example, here are the dynamic range and colour depth scores for some Canon DSLRs: 750D (12EV, 22.7-bits), 760D (12EV, 22.6-bits), 7D Mark II (11.8EV, 22.4-bits), and 1200D (11.3EV, 21.9-bits).
The Nikon 1 J5’s BSI sensor is also reasonably competitive with many M4/3 cameras like the Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark II (12.4EV, 23-bits), Olympus PEN-F (12.4EV, 23.1-bits), Panasonic GX80 (12.6EV, 22.9-bits), Panasonic G80 (12.5EV, 22.8-bits) and the Panasonic GM5 (11.7EV, 22.1-bits) to name a few. Keep in mind that according to DxO a difference of 0.5 EV and 1.0-bits are required to be noticeable for most people. I had a very brief flirtation with a Panasonic GH-4 and a couple of Panasonic pro f/2.8 lenses. For a variety of reasons I really didn’t like shooting with it and returned it after about 10 days of use, and ended up paying a small restocking charge.
While some folks would complain that the Nikon 1 system does not provide a sufficiently wide selection of lenses I’ve never found this to be a problem, as I much prefer to use zoom lenses. Nikon 1 has its own sort of ‘holy trinity’ of three zoom lenses that are the workhorses for my still photography work. The 1 Nikon 6.7-13 mm f/3.5-5.6 is a great wide angle zoom which I’ve used quite a bit during my travels. It is also very good for architectural subjects and street photography.
The 10-100 mm f/4-5.6 has become my ‘go-to’ zoom lens for general photography because of its practical focal length coverage, the equivalent of 27-270 mm in full frame terms, as well as its comparatively short minimum focusing distance. This makes the 10-100 mm f/4-5.6 a surprisingly versatile lens.
The 30-110 mm f/3.8-5.6 is my favourite lens to use with extension tubes and is simply wonderful for close-up insect, butterfly and flower photography.
The Nikon 1 CX 70-300 f/4.5-5.6 outperformed the Tamron 150-600 mm f/5-6.3 that I used to own, and was the ‘straw that broke the camel’s back’ in my decision to sell my D800 and all of my F-mount glass.
The vast majority of my client work requires deeper, rather than shallower, depth-of-field which makes Nikon 1 prime lenses ideal for my video business. I regularly use the 30-110 mm with extension tubes to photograph and video record small details. I used to own a Nikkor 105 mm f/2.8 micro prime, but never used it that much. I find my Nikon 1 gear with extension tubes is much faster and easier to use, while still giving me the close-up results I require.
I’ve never been a fan of ‘focus and recompose’ technique, and I love being able to place a single AF point virtually anywhere in the frame when using one of my Nikon 1 bodies. While not as quick as my D800 in low light, my Nikon 1 cameras provide very fast and accurate focusing in other lighting conditions.
Using AF-C rates of 10fps, 15fps or 20fps with Nikon 1 bodies is wonderful for nature photography like birds-in-flight. Being able to shoot at 30fps or 60fps at full resolution, even though the first frame sets focus for the balance of the run, has been useful with my client work, as well as my personal photography. Using a Nikon 1 V3 with a 1 Nikon CX 70-300 is a pleasure. It is small and light enough that I can shoot all day long with no fatigue whatsoever. True, it is not the best in low light, but I almost never photograph birds or nature in low light anyway.
I know that I have captured many images with my Nikon 1 gear that simply would have been impossible with a DSLR, this being especially true when using extension tubes. The space was simply too cramped, and the minimum focusing distances too short for a DSLR to get the shots.
As a travel camera the Nikon 1 J5 paired with the 6.7-13 mm f/3.5-5.6 and 10-100 f/4-5.6 zooms is simply outstanding. It is small, light, fast and accurate. I’ve found that the lack of an EVF is really a non-issue for me.
Like any camera system, it takes time to understand the Nikon 1 system to be able to leverage its strengths and work around its shortcomings. As is often said, every piece of camera gear comes with some kind of trade-off. For me, giving up a bit of sensor performance has been a fair trade-off for a small, light, fast-focusing system that delivers solid image quality, and the deep depth-of-field that I love.
Part of the learning curve with Nikon 1 has been working with RAW files in post. To get the most out of them I apply OpticsPro 11 PRIME noise reduction to all of my images, regardless of the ISO at which they were captured. There is a difference between how the older Aptina sensor images respond in post than do those taken with the 20.8MP BSI sensor in the J5. As a result I have set up a number of custom presets in OpticsPro 11 that are camera and subject specific. To help address the limited dynamic range in my Nikon 1 RAW files I ‘double bump’ the highlights by adjusting them in both OpticsPro 11 and again in CS6. I’m often very aggressive with highlight and shadow sliders in CS6, far more than was the case with my D800 files. Working with Nikon 1 files is now a pretty simple process for me, with most RAW images taking no more than 3-4 minutes in post, which includes computer processing time.
Nikon 1 has been the subject of countless rumors about its demise, such as the Nikon DL Series replacing it. So far the Nikon 1 system soldiers on. Whether the system will live on far into the future is anyone’s guess. Many camera brands, like Panasonic, Olympus and Pentax, could also be at risk. So, since I love shooting with Nikon 1 I have added some bodies and lenses to my kit to give my business a degree of ‘future proofing’. Even if Nikon 1 was cancelled tomorrow I would be able to keep on shooting with it for many years to come. One thing is certain…I’d be doing that with a smile on my face.
Technical Note:
All images in this article were captured hand-held in available light using Nikon 1 gear as noted in the EXIF data. To calculate the equivalent field-of-view in full frame terms multiply the focal lengths used by 2.7. All photographs were produced from RAW files using my standard process of OpticsPro 11, CS6 and the Nik Collection.
Article is Copyright 2017 Thomas Stirr. Images are Copyright 2015-2017 Thomas Stirr. All rights reserved. No use, duplication or reproduction of any kind including electronic or digital is allowed without written permission. Photography Life is the only approved user of this article and if you see it reproduced anywhere else it is an unauthorized and illegal use. Readers who call out offending websites that steal intellectual property by posting comments on those offending websites are always appreciated!
Many thanks for a very nice and inspired article. It makes me love my J5 even more. I’m going to buy another J5 as a spare whenever my current one’s got a serious issue. And really wish that by the time my 2nd J5 has failed, Nikon will already reconsider to bring Nikon1 system back to live again :)
Hello Sakapong,
Many Nikon 1 users have been buying additional gear to extend the life of their systems. I doubt that Nikon will reverse their decision on the Nikon 1 system… even though many users love the system.
Tom
Thomas,
What settings are you using to get such sharp focus on your birds? I have a J4 and have a devil of a time getting it to focus on a flying creature.
Hi Valerie,
In terms of auto-focus settings, I always use continuous auto-focus (AF-C) and set my camera for subject tracking. The other thing to watch is your shutter speed. You’ll need to make sure your shutter speed is fast enough to freeze the action of the bird. For large birds with slower wing movements (e.g. a pelican) about 1/1250 would be the slowest I would ever use. If you look at the EXIF data you’ll see that I used shutter speeds between 1/2000 and 1/5000 depending on the species of bird I was photographing.
Tom
Thanks, Tom!
Always a pleasure to try to help a reader Valerie! Due to my work load I only post one or two new articles a month here at Photography Life.
Tom
Hello Tom,
To start with, my compliments to you for a most informative and useful website on the Nikon 1 system!
I have a J1 with the 10-30 & 30-110 lenses. I was considering buying a 10-100 lens since this would save me the bother of changing lenses. However I am concerned to read your comment that the 30-110 is a sharper lens than the 10-100. Is this a readily noticeable difference in sharpness? And does the sharpness difference exist over the entire focal length range of the lenses?
Another question. I have stuck with the J1 because I love the colour rendering of the Aptina sensor. The J5 has a sensor from a different manufacturer, probably Sony. Is the colour rendering of the J5 similar to the J1, or does it have a different colour rendering?
Thanks & regards,
Firoze
Hi Firoze,
My wife and I only owned a J1 for about a month back in the fall of 2014 and I really can’t remember much about the camera, so I can’t comment about the colour rendering specifically. Both the dynamic range and colour depth with the J5 are better than the J1. Most folks would notice a difference when doing landscape photography.
I don’t think most people would notice much of a difference in sharpness between the 10-100mm f/4-5.6 and the 30-110mm f/3.8-5.6 for most photographic subjects, especially if they shoot in RAW and do some work on their files in post. Where you may notice some difference is when using the two lenses with extension tubes. I shoot with the 10-100mm f/4-5.6 extensively and love the lens because of its overall flexibility.
Thanks for your positive comment about Photography Life! The team works hard to try to produce interesting and useful information for readers. If you would like to see additional information on the Nikon 1 system specifically you may want to check out my photography blog (linked in my bio) and my eBook on the Nikon 1 system.
Tom
Hello Tom,
Thank you for your detailed reply. I look forward to reading your photo blog, and eBook, and then make a decision on purchasing the J5. I’m sure I will enjoy reading both.
Another question, is it true that the V3 has the same Aptina sensor as the J1, except that the V3 does not have the low-pass filter?
Regards,
Firoze
Hi Firoze,
The sensors in the J1 and the V3 are both made by Aptina, but they are different sensors. The J1’s sensor is 10.1 MP compared to 18.4 MP for the V3. The J5’s sensor uses BSI technology and is 20.8 MP.
The J1, V3 and J5 also have some differences in terms of sensor performance. Dynamic range scores are as follows (according to DxO): J1 11.0 EV, V3 10.7 EV, J5 12 EV. A difference of 0.5 EV is generally needed to be noticeable on prints.
In terms of colour depth a difference of 1.0-bits is generally needed to be noticeable on prints. Here’s how the three cameras perform: J1 21.5-bits, V3 20.8-bits, J5 22.1-bits.
The low light performance of the three cameras is also slightly different with the J5 being the best performer: J5 479-ISO, J1 372-ISO, V3 384-ISO. A 25% difference represents 1/3 of a stop and for most folks would be barely noticeable. So, there’s no real difference between the J1 and V3 in terms of low light performance and only a slightly noticeable difference when moving to the J5.
The biggest differences between the J1 and J5 in terms of sensors are sensor resolution and dynamic range performance. The J5 has a tilt screen and would handle better from an ergonomic standpoint. AF-C frame rates are also a bit different with the J1 shooting at 5fps and 15fps, compared to 10fps and 20fps with the V3 and J5. The buffer on the V3 is about twice as large and clears faster than J model cameras. The V3 has the most DSLR-like handling of any Nikon 1 camera when used with the detachable EVF and grip.
The Nikon 1 model you choose will depend on your specific shooting needs. For example, my wife’s favourite camera is the V3, while mine is the J5. I only use my V3s for birds-in-flight and other moving subjects when I need an EVF. I use my J5s for all other types of photography, and only use my V2s for my client video projects.
Tom
Hello Tom,
Thank you for your most informative reply which has answered many questions I had about the cameras. I will give his some thought, whether to stay with the J1 or to buy the J5.
Regards,
Firoze
Hello Tom,
Regarding the service recall of the 10-30 lens, could you please elaborate on the nature of the fault that the lens was recalled for?
I have a 10-30 which has become defective, in that the aperture is stuck at minimum aperture, even when shooting on Auto. Would this fault be covered under the service recall?
Regards, Firoze.
Hi Firoze,
Here is a link to the Nikon USA announcement about the issue: www.nikonusa.com/en/se…5-5-6.html
The problem results in a communication issue between the lens and camera body. Since your aperture is stuck, this could be the problem. I’m unclear whether you could still get your lens serviced under the service notice or not. It would be best to contact Nikon.
Tom
Hello Tom,
Thank you, I have printed the Service Advisory and will take it to the Nikon service centre. Let’s see if they repair my lens under warranty.
Regards,
Firoze
Always a pleasure to help a reader Firoze!
Tom
I love your text, injust bought it a J5 and the 10-100 pd zoom! Will read everything from you now to learn more! Thanks for
Sharing!!!! I need advice to use the videos from J5 to match with my drone a Phantom 4! Thank you again
Hi Pedro,
I’m glad that you found the article of assistance! I do my best to make some contributions to Photography Life a couple of times a month. If you want to see more of my articles you may want to consider visiting my photography blog. You also may find my eBook on the Nikon 1 system (The Little Camera That Could) of interest as well.
Tom
Hi Thomas,
Outstanding, lovely pictures, as always from you.
I’ve been seriously affected with GAS lately and I’m therefore this close to investing in a J5 bundled with the 10-30 and the 30-110. I love the idea of putting some weight off my ageing body while carrying my camera gear around. And I’m sure it will result in more (perhaps even better) photographs due to the simple fact that I will have the bloody thing with me more often.
In your opinion, based on you experience on Nikon’s product cycles in the past, is there any chance for a J6 appearing any time reasonably soon? Perhaps with a better 4K video and a faster buffer?
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you!
/Bo
Hi Bo,
I really have no idea what may be coming down the pipe from Nikon in terms of a J6. The buffer is a bit slow with the J5 and the 4K video at 15fps isn’t a very practical video solution. Having said that, I can tell you that I have really been enjoying shooting with the J5 to the point that I just added a third one to my kit.
I think that a J5 with the 10-30 kit lens and a 30-110mm makes a very nice, light and practical kit. If you enjoy close-up photography adding some extension tubes would be a worthwhile and inexpensive thing to do. Down the road, adding the 6.7-13mm zoom and the 18.5mm f/1.8 prime would really round out the kit even more while still keeping it small and light.
I will be launching my Nikon 1 eBook within the next few days and it features hundreds of sample images that showcase the capabilities of the underestimated Nikon 1 system.
Tom
Thank you for your quick reply to my somewhat stupid question…
Looking forward to your Nikon 1 eBook.
/Bo
Hi Bo,
No such thing as a stupid question…I only wish I could have had an answer for you!
Tom
I use a Nikon J5 with a few lenses and it’s great. Although it doesn’t have a viewfinder, I first made a hood of my own to try it out and then bought a more professional looking one on EBAY for a few dollars. This means i can focus on the full screen in sunlight.
Hi John,
It is great to hear that you are enjoying your Nikon 1 J5! I’m just finishing up a new eBook about my experiences with the Nikon 1 system. It should be available before year end.
Tom
Hi George,
Being able to shoot with wide angle lenses like 10mm (or even as wide as 6.7mm) does help DOF. On the flip side, bokeh is more of a challenge.
Tom
Hello Thomas. When I saw the photo of a rock seashore, I had to jump down and comment. Wonderful – 27mm eq. @ f/5.6 and no focus-stacking required! I would have to stack at least three frames to get this with my full-frame Canon 6D. Having owned the V1, the DOF of the 1 Series beckons!!
Hi George,
Being able to shoot with wide angle lenses like 10mm (or even as wide as 6.7mm) does help DOF. On the flip side, bokeh is more of a challenge.
Tom
This is a great article to read, I have two J5 bodies myself and was wondering if you could touch a little bit more into the workflow that you do in post please
Thanks Mike
Hi Mike,
Thanks for your comment – I’m glad you enjoyed the article! I use a combination of three programs for post processing: DxO OpticsPro 11, CS6 and the Nik Collection. The only program I update regularly is OpticsPro.
I use OpticsPro as my RAW processor as I like what the program does to my Nikon 1 files. I also enjoy using some specific features in this program such as PRIME noise reduction and DxO Smart Lighting. OpticsPro doesn’t do everything that I need so I also use an older, boxed version of CS6 and the Nik Collection. This is an unorthodox approach to post processing and may not be something other people want to do.
Tom