When you read the title of this article, you might have said to yourself “neither” – and I wouldn’t blame you! After all, who wants to carry extra weight in the field? Modern image stabilization systems allow us to handhold the camera at shutter speeds that were once unthinkable. But camera support isn’t just about overcoming technical limitations; it’s also about our own physical limitations and the very nature of our subjects. That’s why I rarely head out into the field without a tripod or monopod.
But which one should you use? In this article, I’ll go through the pros and cons of tripods and monopods for wildlife photography and give you some ideas as to which one is best for you!
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Why a Tripod and Monopod Are So Useful
During the first days of my photography workshops, participants often ask, “Libor, will we need a tripod?” My answer is almost always the same – “Yes, absolutely – or at least a monopod!” Here’s a list of reasons why I think it’s always a good idea to have a tripod or monopod available:
- Even with today’s advanced image stabilization, I find that I can consistently shoot at longer shutter speeds with a tripod or monopod – especially in rough terrain or when fatigue sets in.
- With the camera mounted on a more stable platform, I can compose my shots much more precisely, improving the photos and minimizing the need for cropping later.
- A tripod allows me to pre-set my composition and wait for my subject to act, such as a bird landing on a perch or returning to its nest.
- A tripod lets me leave my camera (Nikon Z9 or Z8) in place without my physical presence, using auto-capture to do the work. This even allows for shooting with multiple cameras simultaneously.
- Both a tripod and a monopod significantly improve my reaction time. If I were handholding my camera, I’d likely capture my first frame several seconds later (if at all) compared to having it pre-aimed at the expected action.
- A camera on a tripod or monopod disturbs birds far less than constantly raising and lowering it to your eye.
- Holding a camera with a heavy lens, I can’t shoot for more than a couple of minutes without fatigue. Resting my hands on a supported camera with a long telephoto lens allows me to stay ready for hours.
- Shooting from a portable blind is nearly impossible without a stable support.
- Photographing near water without proper support is a risky gamble with your expensive gear. You might survive a brief dip, but your camera won’t.
- Long shutter speeds can help emphasize motion blur, while your tripod keeps the main subject sharp – useful for creative shots.
As an eleventh point, I could half-jokingly add that I sometimes use my tripod – or more often my monopod – as a substitute for a walking stick (or even a machete). Whether for extra stability on uneven ground, wading through a river, or clearing a path through stinging nettles, a monopod proves surprisingly handy.
Hopefully, I’ve made a strong enough case that some form of camera support is still highly useful in today’s “stabilized era.” Now, the question remains – are three legs better than one, or is a single leg sufficient? Tripod or monopod? Let’s break it down.
Advantages of a Tripod over a Monopod
There are a variety of reasons why a tripod can be preferable to a monopod:
- It allows much longer shutter speeds – several seconds or even minutes long – opening up a variety of creative options.
- It allows absolutely precise and fixed composition, which (among other benefits) lets you “pre-frame” your photo and wait for the subject to do something interesting in the perfect spot.
- A tripod guarantees a constant distance between the camera and the subject, as long as the subject stays still. With a monopod, you run the risk of swaying like a reed in the wind, which can lead not only to motion blur but also to mis-focusing, especially if your subject is small and close.
- Ideally, the tripod will remain standing even if you take your hands off it to grab other gear. Though you better make sure the tripod is super stable before you do so!
- From a tripod, you can use the camera as a camera trap or to control it remotely via an app.
Advantages of a Monopod over a Tripod
Not all the benefits are in a tripod’s favor. There are many times in wildlife photography where a monopod is preferable:
- One leg is lighter and more compact than three.
- It’s faster to point the monopod in the right direction and move to different spots with it, which can be the difference between success and failure.
- In rugged terrain covered with dense vegetation, using a monopod is much easier.
- A monopod makes it simple to spin the camera in different directions side-to-side, and (to some extent) tilt the camera from left to right. This means that you don’t need a big gimbal head and can get away with a simple up/down tilt head.
- When used in a group of photographers crammed into one spot, it will be much easier to fit a monopod than a tripod.
- On a canoe or a zodiac, you’ll find it easier to compensate for the tilt of the horizon with a monopod than with a tripod (even with a gimbal head).
- The monopod can alternatively be used as a walking stick.
Of all the above, the monopod’s most important advantage is speed – the ability to reposition your camera in an instant. In wildlife photography, where success depends on capturing fleeting moments, this can be a game-changer. Sometimes moving your camera just a few inches can make all the difference, and that’s not always quick with a tripod.
Tripod vs Monopod: Verdict
So, which is better? I won’t give you a definitive answer – because there isn’t one. It all depends on the specific conditions and shooting situation. However, when packing for a photography trip and faced with the choice between the two, I almost always take my tripod. Its versatility wins out.
As for which tripod you should buy, remember that the best tripod is the one you actually carry with you. A rock-solid but heavy tripod left at home or in a hotel room is useless. Even a slightly “underpowered” tripod can do wonders in wildlife photography with a little care and caution.
What do I mean by caution? For example, when shooting in deep water or on large rocks, I avoid extending the thinnest leg sections. I make sure no one, including myself, accidentally kicks a loaded tripod. I don’t walk away from a fully loaded tripod, just in case.
As for materials, I highly recommend carbon fiber legs. Compared to aluminum tripods of the same weight, they support heavier loads. In other words, for the same stability and load capacity, carbon fiber tripods are significantly lighter. However, they can be more fragile and require more careful handling. Just treat it like a tripod, not an ice axe.
If you often find yourself torn between a tripod and a monopod but only want to pack one, there is a hybrid solution – the convertible tripod. These 2-in-1 models allow you to unscrew one leg and use it as a monopod. However, keep in mind that everything is a tradeoff, and 2-in-1 tripods may be a little heavier or a little less stable than a dedicated tripod.
In any case, finding the right support for your camera is a lot like picking the right shoes. Eventually, you realize that there’s no true all-in-one solution. You wouldn’t wear hiking boots to a formal event – not because you physically couldn’t, but because there are better options. The same goes for choosing between a tripod and a monopod. Most wildlife photographers I know will own both a tripod and monopod, and they’ll pick which one to carry depending on the situation.
Personally, my gear cabinet holds a lightweight carbon fiber travel tripod, a sturdy carbon fiber tripod, an aluminum monopod, and a 2-in-1 convertible tripod. Which one do I use the most? By a wide margin, the first one. But your preferences might be entirely different. I’d love to hear about them in the comments below!
Great article, Libor. The main reason to use tripods or monopods is for larger lenses in the f/4 or faster range. The other reason is video too, where stabilization still looks much worse than a tripod with a video head. The heaviness of such lenses is leaving me on the fence about getting bigger lenses, as I don’t much enjoy the use of tripods.
Which make / model of blind do you use? Great article.
I use a Monopod for one reason only, which is I like to hike with Camera Kit readily available to be put to use, the monopod has always been the quickest to get on a subject, as fast as handhold only on a strap.
I occasionally do destination Photography where seating is used and the Tripod assists with setting up the kit to capture opportunities centred around one focal point.
The Monopod wins for the bulk of my time out with a Camera + Telephoto Lens.
With arthritic knee Joints the Monopod allows me to cover more ground than a Tripod with kit mounted readily available has enabled before joint discomfort makes its presence known.
With Practice and the use of a Inverted Ball Head, the Monopod’s Leg can be set approx 45 degrees to the Lens when Horizontal. The Foot will contact the ground approx’ 1mtr in front of the Camera Users Body. This allows to camera user to create a very rigid technique with out the Plate Spinning instability of a Vertical Monopod Leg.
Obviously very low shutter speeds and a remote shutter release to remove user enforced blur, are not the ideal camera set up for when a Monopod is used to support the Kit.
Thank you for your experience, John. That’s an interesting technique for using the monopod you describe. Instead of a monopod, it is defacto a bipod. If I understand correctly, part of the weight (horizontal force vector) is carried by your forehead.
Hi Libor
The Link shows the basics shotkit.com/how-t…e-monopod/
This method is adaptable by the individual and can be tuned to be very effective, as said I have the foot approx’ 3′ Feet ( 900mm) in front of the Body. This will mean the Monopod leg is extended by approx’ 500mm in length, than if the Monopod was used in the more typically seen Vertical Positioning, requiring a shorter leg length.
My selection of Ball Head referred to as Inverted, is very similar to the model in the Link
www.proaimusa.com/produ…lm-cameras
This design of Ball Head is ideal for Landscape Framing and allows for changing the +/- 180 Degree angle of the Objective Lens very very effectively, there is no slop or overrun when the tensioning on the Ball is learnt.
This design of Ball Head will not let the Camera Set Up rotate to the the full 90 Degrees Portrait Framing, the Monopod Leg needs lifting of the floor to get the full 90 degrees turn.
This method has had me tracking Dragon Flies on a few occasions in a way I was not feeling was able to be bettered in the space I was capturing the images, for Hedge Birds it is a betterment to Handholding and allows for many more variants of captures than a Tripod allows when the subjects appear. .
If I put on a shorter Focal Length Lens for Landscape/Waterscape I have used the Third Leg Technique equally successful, even with the Leg placed in water and myself sat at the waters edge, using very low shutter speeds is not a problem.
With the shorter focal length lens I use a Typical Ball Head design as this enables a speedy flip to achieve a 90 Degree Angle to capture Portrait Framing.
One other place this method has appeal as well is, when a Long Focal Length Lens is used, the Angle between Lens and Monopod Leg can be produced that allows the Monopod to be rested on the shoulder tight into the neck and the Lens will rest against the back close to the Spine.
When the Angle is set correctly the Camera > Lens > Monopod rigidly locks in place upon the shoulder where not too much concern for the kit is needed when generally walking.
When going through tighter cover, adjusting the length of the Monopod Leg and placing a hand on the Monopod keeps everything feeling failsafe secure.
In my case the cranked angle produced is the same as the Lens being 180 degrees when the Monopod Leg is extended to the desired length.
With Arthritis in my knees as a impediment to carrying out long hikes, having off set weight impacting on the Knee Joints from a Camera > Tripod or Camera > Carry Strap, does stress the knees and aggravates the already present chronic pain, to the point the experience is wanted to be stopped
With the Camera Kit comfortably at rest on the shoulder with the weight of the kit almost directly over the bodies centre of gravity, it is usually only fitness levels that are the real intervention on to how long a hike lasts.
As the additional weights impact on the Body does not aggravate the Chronic Pain to the point it is not wanted to be experienced, only the impact of the rural terrain is what is impacting on the body.
Thanks for outlining all the options and thinking on this issue.
For me the decision about whether to take a tripod, a monopod or nothing and just handhold depends upon where you are going.
I usually handhold my 180-600 if I have not been there before. (You don’t know what you may find).
If I am going to an area where I expect to see Peregrine Falcons but I know I will need to be patient waiting for them to fly in to the cliff face nesting area, a tripod (my Gitzo carbon fibre with my sidemount Wimberley gimbal) is the right thing to take.
If I am going on a boat looking for Albatross using a heavy prime lens then a monopod with a monogimbal is a much more logical choice.
If I am heading out to photograph Spoonbills in the golden hour by the lake and I want the colours and reflections just right I will take the F4 500 prime and the tripod.
If I am going to be walking as part of a small group into new locations or on safari in off road vehicles, then maximum flexibility and hand holding a lighter lens like the 180-600 is my choice.
That said, I am thinking that the F series prime 500 will eventually need to be replaced by a Z series (slower) 600PF 6.3. It is lighter but I expect to still use it in the same way to allow for the need for slower speeds in lower light.
Thank you for your comment, Martin. You are right that the 180-600mm is very hand holdable and if I was sure I wouldn’t need a tripod, I might dare to go into the field without one. My 500mm f/4 is quite different in nature, or rather I’m not strong enough to be able to use it unsupported all day. After all, you have this lens too, so I don’t need to explain. I’ve also thought a few times about switching to the 600mm f/6.3, but the time is not ripe yet. I just love the f/4 aperture. Although I admit that 600mm f/6.3 in a backpack is like fairy’s breath compared to 500mm f/4.
While the 500 F4 has been a long term favourite, it just isn’t a lens I can take on international flights easily. Now the 180-600 and Z mount native lenses are breaking down the barriers and providing new options. I never expected to like a variable aperture telephoto zoom as much as I like the 180-600. I don’t think there is a better value for money full frame 600mm travel lens if you are going birding.
Even with a monopod I am finding the Z9 with a 180-600mm too much.
I am getting fed up of carting it around, I just like taking pictures of birds and wildlife so that OM 1 is looking good.
To be fair, you selected one of the largest full-frame cameras. A Z6 III and a lens like the 400 f/4.5, 500 f/5.6, or 600 f/6.3 would be far lighter.
I use a 100-400 and 500/f5.6 (sometimes with a 1.4 TC) on a Z8, hand held. It’s easy to carry the non-used lens in a cylinder shoulder bag and I barely notice the weight of it. I can then use a 1.5kg lens on the camera, which is fine for me (no spring chicken). I also have a Z5 with an L-bracket and that and the Z8 feel very similar. I’m pleased (relieved, given the outlay) how the Z8 feels – not much different from my old D500 (and better than I expected).
In fairness, I wouldn’t take those 2 lenses and a mono- or tripod.
Hi Robert, Your Equipment used, will be very well suited to a Body Harness such as the one shown in the Link:
www.amazon.com/Nicam…olife0c-20
This design gives good confidence the kit is controlled and being kept in very good fettle, it rests with myself as a better option to kit swinging precariously on a strap.
The Link might be off interest: shuttermuse.com/best-…era-strap/
I have used the Harness design with a few Body >Lens configurations and know how well it works with non- Prime + Prime Telephoto Lenses.
For the way the Harness Fits myself, a 300mm F2.8 AI-S @ 12″ Length / 5.5lb, is it at its limits when I am using the Harness without modifications.
( I am a large framed person with quite a few lbs of excess weight, the Harness Security Straps are just bit in their buckles as a standard design).
If the Harness was a much improved fit for another user, the Lens they opt to attach to the Camera/Harness might be an increased in Focal Length Prime Telephoto.
Modern Z Telephoto Zooms and Z Primes up to 400mm should not be a concern in any manner.
This same Harness with a modification is what I intend on utilising in conjunction with the in use Monopod shown in the Link:
www.amazon.com/Leofo…olife0c-20
The Harness is the selected kit carrier when I commence to use a Two Body > Three Lens Kit for outings.
I changed Monopods recently, as lesser diameter Top Sections increase the width of the shoulder on the Top Plate / Top Section Interface. The wider the shoulder the more risk of a shear damage occurring when exposed to applied forces.
The Leofoto Monopods Top Section being 40mm, is in relation to what is typically available, the much improved attachment interface for the Z9>Z800, as the 40mm section, substantially reduces shear effect from the forces exerted when carrying a Monopod in the non-vertical orientation.
As additional piece of mind, I have a Permanent Tether produced from Parachord that is anchored to the Monopod under the Top Plate.
This Tether has a fastening attached that allows for it to attached to Camera/ Lens (A Belt and Braces Approach).
Also produced from Parachord are Two Hand Loops, one is attached at the same place the Tether has been anchored and the other is attached further down the Leg to suit my hand connection for when carrying the Monopod with a fully extended leg.
The use of the Harness as a modified version, will allow for the additional
Z Body ?? (6III) > Z100-400 or possibly the (Tamron 50-400mm f4.5-6.3 Di III VC VXD – Model A067 ) + ( Tamron 35-150mm f2-2.8 Di III VXD ) to be taken into the field and leave one feeling confident the kit is gathered and well looked after whilst being readily available to be used.
Hi Dean, I agree with Jason. The Z9 is a real brick, and as much as I love this camera, its weight starts to wear on you after a few kilometers in the field. If you’re looking for a more compact and lightweight alternative, I’d lean toward the Z6 III paired with the 600mm f/6.3, or you could stick with the 180-600mm f/6.3 zoom you already have. Alternatively, the Z8 gives you virtually everything the Z9 does but in a more compact package.
I use a Schonfeld carbon fiber tripod that I bought about a decade ago. It’s not feather light but it’s definitely not as heavy as a metal tripod and is very stable. I have a monopod/walking stick but it is not nearly as stable to use but it does help get steadier shots in rough terrain..
The ifootage Cobra 3 strike carbon fiber monopod is next up on my shopping list.
That Cobra looks interesting. Honestly, I’ve never tried any of these “three-legged monopods” in the field. To some extent, it might address the reed-in-the-wind effect. Thanks for the idea for some of the future tests.
I use different tripods or nothing, a big heavy old iron tripod used as a reference in lens testing is even great if I know I have to set up equipment in rough weather near the car ä otherwise the tripod in carbon fiber is good for long shooting, waterfalls etc. When photographing birds with heavy lenses sometimes a possible tripod, can be used in so many different ways with kuled or old even if Nikon 500 on goes fine without a tripod. Counted my tripods for this answer 1 in iron 2 aluminum and one carbon fiber, I buy something new it will be either a really big carbon fiber or a light travel tripod in carbon fiber.monopods I have two aluminum and two carbon fiber but should be of the type with 3/8 thread at both ends so that accessories can be mounted in many ways. I like a couple of gimps as well as a mini tripod or two. Maybe I’ll write an article about tripod use as well as a greater creativity around it can give a lot and accessories can be combined in 1001 wey.
Thank you for an interesting article that hopefully will advise many people to try new waysThank you for an interesting article that hopefully will advise many people to try new ways
Thank you for your comment, Mikael. An iron tripod is quite a rarity these days. What kind of head do you usually use? Among the 1001 ways you mentioned, I’d definitely include cooking in the field with a pot hanging over a fire. Unlike a carbon tripod, an iron one would surely handle that without a problem.
Libor, só uso o tripé, ele com as pernas totalmente fechadas, vira um monopé mais ou menos. Problema resolvido. Obrigado pelas dicas.
Thanks for the addition, Ednar. You’re right—I sometimes use my tripod this way as well. The downside is that if you have all the leg sections extended, adjusting the height still takes three times longer than with a monopod. One solution is to extend only the sections of a single leg. But I can only do that with my Gitzo tripod, definitely not with the PD, whose thin last segment probably wouldn’t handle it and could break.
Hi Libor, You have hit upon the one area where I am completely ham handed. The first time I tried to use a monopod was the last time I tried to use a monopod. I had just bought my brand new 200-500 lens, which is rather heavy. When I attached the camera with lens to the monopod, it went swinging all over the place uncontrollably. I also nearly tripped over the thing more than once. It really was a comedy. I am even more inept with my very good carbon fiber tripod with an arca ball head. When I try to use it, everything goes wrong. One compensation is that I have become really good at shooting hand held. I don’t think there is any hope for me to get better with either a tripod or a monopod. HA!
Elaine, I laughed out loud when I read your accounts! I had a similar experience with my (very short-lived) ownership of an otherwise good monopod. And the first time I mounted my Z8 + 500mm PF on my excellent RRS carbon fiber tripod with heavy ballhead, same thing! (So I got a nice Jobu Design gimbal head for it; problem solved.) Thanks for sharing.
I completely agree. I never really got used to using a classic ball head with a long telephoto lens. From my perspective, it simply has too many degrees of freedom. That’s why I find a gimbal, a video head, or a ball head with a side-tilt lock to be the ideal solutions.
I can attest to the quality and functionality not to mention the lightweight of Jobu Design’s carbon fibre monopod and Jr. 3 Deluxe gimbal. I’ve used both over the past year without a problem including temps as low as -30c. My D500 and 200-500 with Jobu’s products are a match made in heaven.
I completely understand your frustration, Elaine. Using a tripod or monopod is by no means a necessity. If either of these takes away from your enjoyment of photography or even puts you in danger, just leave them behind and shoot the way that works best for you. Once, I didn’t bring a tripod and improvised by hanging my camera from an overhanging branch using my PD strap while photographing a woodpecker. Thanks to the strap’s quick-release and adjustable length, I was able to fine-tune my camera’s position just the way I needed. And unlike a monopod, it allowed me to take my hands off completely. Have a great day!
I am getting the impression that the ball head may be my problem. Can you recommend a decent easy-to-use gimbal tripod head that isn’t too expensive?
Before I switched to a Manfrotto fluid head, I used the Flex Shooter Pro ball head. I found it easy to use once I got the primary ball leveled. The secondary ball had enough friction to keep my rig from flopping all over yet allow for smooth panning. If you release the tension on the primary ball, you can kinda, sorta, maybe use it as a gimbal. The method they use for attaching the camera to the head leaves a bit to be desired.
Hi Elaine,
For me, I VERY quickly realized that my wonderful RRS ball head which I love for landscapes is a ‘deal breaker’ problem when using a long lens for wildlife.
I know that here in the PL website there are many varied reviews and suggestions on gimbal heads (and techniques, etc.), which I’ve read and considered. A somewhat older (about 3 years old) review by Matt Granger was, imo, also VERY useful (www.youtube.com/watch…gyHiUwleVE).
I think the most important thing I’ve learned about a wildlife gimbal head is NOT to buy some super cheap (sub-$200) unit without considering the fact that our very expensive camera+lens combo could be dashed to the ground if the gimbal breaks… and the cheapest ones do break sometimes from what I’ve read, with horrible consequences. But there are a lot of great options if one is willing to spend $250 or more (often a Lot more) for their choice … happy hunting.
Since reading all of the above, I’ve learned about gimbal heads, grip heads, geared heads, fluid heads, and high end ball heads. I think I may just stick to shooting hand held and leave my tripod in its case, only taking it out once a year when I want to shoot a lunar eclipse. Thanks everybody for the advice.
Elaine, If you have the chance, borrow a gimbal head and see if this kind of setup works for you. It’s definitely a change from handheld shooting, especially since the pivot points change both horizontally and vertically. It takes some getting used to.
If you find that a gimbal head won’t just end up as another unused gadget collecting dust, then it’s worth considering the right one. I agree with Mark that the cheapest options may not be ideal. Personally, I also like heads that can be disassembled and cleaned – since I often submerge mine in water and subject it to all sorts of abuse, occasional maintenance is necessary.
As Thomas mentioned, the FlexShooter ball head is a fantastic hybrid between a traditional ball head and a gimbal. It’s by far my most used head. Video heads offer smoother movement, but tend to be significantly heavier. And since you like to shoot handheld, I’d recommend a head that allows for quick camera release, like the FlexShooter or RRS.