Whether you’re an amateur or professional shooter the choice of which camera brand and format to buy can be daunting. Often after you’ve shot with it for a while another round of soul-searching can happen as you better understand the strengths and limitations of your gear, and consider where your photography and/or videography is going to take you. I suppose we all go on our own ‘gear journey’…this is mine.
Like the vast majority of Nikon DSLR shooters I started with DX gear, ending up with a D7000 and some of the better performing Nikkor DX lenses like the 16-85mm VR f/3.5-5.6, the 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5, the 35mm f/1.8, and the 85mm micro f/3.5. I also had one FX lens, the 70-300 VR f/3.5-5.6. It was cost effective and gave me the flexibility I needed. If my business hadn’t expanded into doing a lot more video work than still photography, I quite likely would still be shooting with it today.
I loved the dynamic range and colour depth of the D7000, as well as the weather sealing, dual card slots and a host of other features. Low light performance was quite good and I could regularly shoot stills at ISO1600 without hesitation. For the money it was simply the best cropped sensor camera on the market for still photography. At the time, it was the only Nikon body that could shoot 1080HD video, albeit only at 24p. Doing a lot of video work wasn’t on my radar screen, but I wanted to make sure I could offer 1080 HD to clients if the opportunity arose.
The D7000 DX-based kit served me well for the industrial photography work I was doing, It didn’t take long before clients started asking me if I could also do video for them. I was ready and gladly took on the projects. I bought more video related gear like a follow focus, a camera slider and a decent fluid video head. Having those tools allowed me to add good production value to the projects I was getting. Pretty soon my video work began to grow rapidly, becoming a higher percentage of my revenue than was my still photography work.
That was when the video limitations of my D7000 started to show up. Adding camera movements in my video shots were tricky as shooting in 24p can make things a bit choppy if I wasn’t careful. Moire was more common than I would have liked. Some clients began asking if I could shoot 1080 HD in 30p. And, I was getting frustrated having to go in and out of live-view every time I needed to change aperture when shooting a video clip.
As luck would have it (or so I thought), the D600 arrived on the scene. I thought it was a god-send. A ‘reasonably-priced’ FX camera that offered shallow depth-of-field for more creativity. Great low light performance. And, it could shoot 1080 HD video in 30p, which was my most urgent client need. I could clearly see the additional creative options that an FX body would give me for my business. So, I took the plunge and I was an early adopter and bought one of the first D600s available in Canada. Along with the kit lens, I added a couple of ‘pro-grade’ constant aperture Nikkor FX zooms to my kit (16-35 F/4 VR and 70-200 f/4 VR).
While the D600 ended up being a disaster with dust/oil spot issues, I did learn the value of an FX body in terms of overall image quality, low light performance for stills, and the creativity that can come from shallow depth-of-field. I also learned that DSLRs can be very unpredictable when it comes to video performance. The D600 was a poster child for moire, far worse than my D7000. I loved shooting stills with the D600, and the FX sensor spoiled me. I tried to put up with the oil/dust issues but after almost 8 months of heartache, and going through three different copies of the D600 I finally moved up to a D800. I made the move with some trepidation though. It meant another card format, larger files to deal with, and more money.
I fell in love with the D800 immediately, and still love it today. The video quality is terrific with very little moire. And, for still photography I don’t think there is a better DSLR for the kind of work I do…fantastic dynamic range, great colour depth, very good low light performance, and wonderfully detailed images.
My D7000, which had been a rock solid performer for me, was relegated to a back-up role and virtually never came out of my bag. The D800 was doing dual duty as an FX and a DX body, and I found it easier to change the image size setting in the camera, rather than change bodies when I was on a shoot. I guess I’m a bit lazy.
Crunch time had arrived. It just didn’t make sense for me to hang on to the D7000 from a business standpoint. It had become redundant to my still photography and video needs because of a dramatic change in the kind of client work I was doing.
What to do? I could change DX bodies for one with better video like the D5200…but then I would still have the same live-view/aperture issue I had with the D7000 Plus, no weather sealing. But there were positives. After lying on my belly in numerous factories and warehouses setting up low angle video shots, the flip screen on the D5200 did look appealing. I researched the D5200 video quality and discovered it was Nikon’s best performing DSLR regardless of price (note: the D5200 has since been replaced by the D5300 which is also highly regarded for its video capability). It was very tempting…but was that really the best decision?
The other option was to change brands and make my second camera a Panasonic GH3, or maybe a Sony, or an Olympus, but that would mean even more money with additional lenses. Some of them were quite expensive as well. And, I wasn’t sure about video file format differences between those cameras and my D800.
Enter the Nikon 1 V2. It had a small CX sensor which I REALLY liked. It would give me much deeper depth-of-field at any given aperture which would be very useful from a creative standpoint, especially when forced to shoot video at f/1.8 or f/2.0 in lower light conditions. I’d get complete control of shutter speed and aperture with external controls and no live-view hassle when shooting video (at the time only high end ‘pro’ Nikon FX bodies allowed this feature). Plus, I could use all of my existing Nikkor glass if I bought the FT-1 adapter. It would give me significantly more reach with any of my FX lenses for both stills and video. The native 1 Nikon lenses were limited in terms of selection…but they were pretty decent quality and quite inexpensive, so I could put a small CX system together and not break the bank. Plus the V2 could shoot the video specs I needed in a very small body that I could put in hard to access places…which is quite common when doing industrial video productions. I was sold.
The Nikon 1 V2 with a couple of kit zoom lenses were added to my kit, and the V2 very quickly became my second camera for all of my video projects. Unlike DX and FX format Nikon cameras, every bit of the sensor is read when shooting video with a Nikon 1 body. So, the line skipping used in DX and FX bodies is avoided, and with it, most of the moire issues. The ISO noise performance with the V2 in video is actually better than when it is used to shoot stills. When shooting video up to ISO800 it is pretty close to the D800 and the V2 can be pushed to ISO1600 and still produce acceptable results. Was I expecting the Nikon 1 V2 to replace my D7000 in terms of still image quality? Not a chance.
I initially kept my D7000 and my DX lenses. Even though I wasn’t using it much at all any more, knowing that it was in my bag did give me a huge feeling of comfort when going on a client shoot.
Eventually I came to the realization that from a business standpoint I couldn’t justify having money tied up in a DX body and lenses that I wasn’t using. Camera bodies aren’t like wine…they don’t go up in value the longer you keep them. When I read rumors about a potential D7100 coming out I knew it was time to make a move and sell my DX system. It was like saying goodbye to a great friend. Within a short time it was all sold at decent prices. A confirmation of the reputation that Nikon gear has in the market place is that it holds its value quite well. And, with the popularity of the DX format there is always a good market for a well-respected Nikon body like the D7000.
I reinvested the money in some Nikkor FX primes (the f/1.8 trinity, 28mm, 50mm and 85mm) and more 1 Nikon lenses to round out my FX/CX video shooting capability and enhance my full frame still photography arsenal.
What’s next for me on my photo gear journey? Likely a long telephoto zoom. I’ll be doing a review for Photography Life on the Nikon-mount Tamron 150-600 VC when it becomes available within the next couple of months. Depending on how it performs with my D800 (in FX and DX mode) and my V2 I may buy one.
Anything else on my mind? Well, after getting over my initial, huge disappointment with the DxOMark scores on the Nikon 1 V3 I am re-examining that option for my business. The Nikon 1 V3’s video capabilities are what may win me over. There is a lot to like from a videographer’s viewpoint… 1080 HD in 60p, 720 HD in 120p, flip screen with touch screen focusing for easy rack focusing, movie E-VR to reduce camera shake when shooting hand-held video, and a handy 10-30mm power zoom. There are things about the Nikon 1 V3 I don’t like: price, micro SD chip, and yet another new battery from Nikon.
At the end of the day it’s just a business decision about return-on-investment. I know the V3 would add some additional higher-end production value to my video work, and could lead to additional video assignments because of the additional capabilities. If it does then the $1,200 investment will be recouped with the very next video project.
I’m also intrigued with the new 1 Nikon 70-300 f/3.5-5.6 zoom that has an equivalent field-of-view of 189-810mm. Could it be possible that this lens on a Nikon 1 V3 or my V2 could outperform the Tamron 150-600 VC on my D800 when shooting in DX crop mode? I don’t know…but I intend to find out….that may be another review on Photography Life!
It was a dramatic shift in my client work towards video, coupled with limited Nikon product choices in terms of video capability that caused me to move into FX, then CX, and to eventually sell all my Nikon DX gear. If my business had remained centred on still photography I could very well still be shooting with DX gear today.
My ‘gear journey’ story likely is far from being typical. The vast majority of camera owners don’t own gear with the intent of making an income with it. And, I suspect most professional photographers don’t make the majority of their income from doing video either.
So, what about you? What kind of decision making processes have you gone through when you’ve decided to add gear, or sell gear? Or change camera brands? Do you have any current dilemmas? Photography Life has lots of very experienced readers who may be able to help with your current dilemma. Let us know, and share your stories.
Article Copyright 2014, Thomas Stirr. All rights reserved. No use, reproduction or duplication including electronic is allowed without written consent.
Best thing I ever did was sell my Nikon D750 and old Nikkie primes and buy a Panasonic G7, Metabones Speedbooster XL and Sigma 18-35f1.8. Killer combo in low light, surprisingly way better than the D750. I can adapt Nikon or Canon lenses for my video or photo work depending which Speedbooster mount I choose (I chose Canon) and with the Sigma 18-35f1.8 which is fast on its own I’m now getting f1.1 across the whole zoom range, mental!!!
vimeo.com/156280895
Sounds like an interesting set-up…thanks for sharing your experiences!
Tom
No probs Tom ?
I have no idea how you find the time to write so much about this subject and turn it
Into such a huge thing. I don’t understand it. Just be creative!
I’m sorry! Please accept my apologies! I just saw it now maybe I needed to refresh the page. I’m really sorry Thomas and I appreciate your reply. Thanks again. I just saw your answer and I haven’t gone through it either because I can’t wait to say how sorry I am and how silly I’ve been. Thanks again. I’ll go through your response now. I hope you’ll forgive my stupidity.
Roshan,
Don’t sweat it….nothing to worry about!
Tom
I had posted here yesterday and still I can’t see my post today but I can see Thomas Stirr’s comment made today though. I’ve been a regular visitor of photographylife.come even before it was names mansurovphotography something like that I used to visit this site whenever I needed any help or to know any aspect of photography or just to check updates. But why isn’t my post here and I had asked a few questions.
Hi Roshan,
That is not an easy question to answer as it really depends on the features that are the most important to you and what your longer term goals may be of owning the camera. In terms of using the cameras for video you will find that the tilt screen on the D5300 is very handy. The quality of the video of the D5300/D5200 is actually very good and you should be happy with either camera. As your posting noted, the D5300 does have a higher density sensor so it does afford you more opportunities with cropping etc. I’ve owned or shot with a D5200 or D5300 so I really can’t comment in terms of its functionality.
I used to own a D7000 and found that it was a great camera. Solid build, good weather sealing, dual card slots, 100% view, very good battery life etc. It is much closer to a ‘pro build’ camera than would be the D5200/D5300. The video quality is not quite as good as the D5200/D5300 and it is limited to 24p with 1080.
Rather than try and settle on a specific camera body upfront, it may be better for you to consider what kinds of subjects that you want to photograph and determining how extensive of a lens kit will make sense for you. This may be a multiple year plan as it may be cost prohibitive to try and acquire everything on your planned list at once.
I’ve been a Nikon shooter for many, many years so I am partial to that particular brand. But, you would be doing yourself a disservice if you did not check out other options from Sony, Olympus, Panasonic, Canon, Pentax etc. There are a lot of excellent cameras and technologies on the market. I certainly would look at a lot of the mirrorless products that are on the market. If you decide on a particular brand of mirrorless camera you can always start with a lower end camera body and upgrade it later as your skills increase. If you stay with the same system any lenses you buy should be able to migrate to newer/better bodies.
I would suggest trying to determine what selection of lenses would make the most sense for the kind of photography and video you intend on shooting. Generally speaking you are much better off buying better quality lenses, than putting too much money into a camera body. After you have your proposed lens selection determined, then investigate the lens offerings by various brands, the cost of the lenses, image quality etc. There are lots of great websites where you can read excellent reviews on lenses. Photography Life is a great place to start (you’ll find that information under the Reviews tab).
After you’ve done that you will likely find that a particular brand/model of camera, along with the lenses you’ve identified, make the most sense for you. If you planning to buy any third party lenses like Tamron, Sigma etc. you’ll find that the best selection will tend to be with Nikon, Canon, and Sony bodies.
Hope this has helped.
Tom
Thanks Thomas. Your answer is very helpful to me and yes it has helped. I’ve gone through several reviews of dslr and lenses on this website and other websites like photozone.de and dxomark and dpreview. I’m on a tight budget so I can’t afford more than one lens at start and Nikon’s 35mm 1.8g dx when coupled with a dx body and it seems to be a great one for start according to several reviews including the one that can be found on this website and it seems to be the best option as it’s half the cost than any other lenses of this focal length from other brands. I’ve used either 24 mm, 50 mm and 140 mm most of the time on my bridge camera. I love taking photographs of almost everything and I’m not yet focused on a particular type of photography so I’d love to own lenses of great quality that ranges from 24 mm to 400 mm but I can’t afford at the moment so I’m leaning towards 35mm 1.8g dx lens. I think I’ll go with Nikon D7000 as I’ve read it has much bigger viewfinder and of better quality than those viewfinders that can be found on D5000 series. I wanted to get Pentax K5 II though but it’s not available in this country. I’m from Nepal. The market here is dominated by Canon, Nikon and Sony. I did search for mirrorless cameras here but only panasonic’s GH series are available and looking at images from gh series I didn’t feel it’s upto dx sensor’s plus I love optical viewfinder and I’m fed up with this low quality viewfinder of my bridge camera though I’ve read gh series have much more better evf compared to my tiny and low quality evf. For the past 3 years I’ve been somewhat biased and have been leaning towards Nikon although I haven’t owned one yet. And in the future if I can afford and if Tamron 150-600 mm turns out to be a good performer I’d love to get one.
Thank’s Thomas.
Hi Roshan,
I used to own a 35mm f/1.8 DX lens and it was a very good performer and from a price/performance perspective was excellent. The lens would perform well on any DX body. If you are looking for a lot of initial flexibility you may want to consider the new 18-140 DX zoom lens. I haven’t shot with it as I no longer own DX gear….but I have read a lot of good things about the lens. It also scores very well at DxOMark.
Perhaps some readers who own that lens can comment. BTW….Ross posted some comments about how good that lens has been for him.
The viewfinder on the D7000 is very nice to use and having 100% view is very helpful when framing shots. As I mentioned earlier, I used to own a dD7000 and really enjoyed shooting with it. Since it has been replaced by the D7100 you can likely pick one up at an attractive price as well.
Tom
Hi Thomas! I’d love the versatility of 18-140mm and according to reviews it sure seems to produce much much better results than what can be produced from my bridge camera’s lens but it doesn’t seem to be as good as 35mm 1.8g when bokeh, sharpness and the benefits of wide aperture is taken into consideration. But I can feel why you’ve recommended it to me as I had mentioned I use 24, 50 and 140 mm on my bridge camera. Another thing 18-140 cost $600 where as 35mm 1.8g cost three times less than the former. I’m really on a tight budget and if I could afford to buy a $600 worth lens then I’d rather wait and add another $200 and get a sigma 18-35mm 1.8g lens although I’d loose the extra reach of 18-140 mm. I’ve had limitations with my bridge camera and a D7000 with a 35mm prime lens is definitely a huge step up for me although it has it’s limitations with it’s focal length but I’m ready to trade zoom for the quality that I will get from 35mm at the moment. When things go well and I’ll earn and have more money somehow then I’ll add other lenses. But nevertheless I’m really thankful to you for taking out time to read my posts and response to me. I’ll let you know when I get the camera and the lens. Meanwhile I’ll be looking forwards to your articles :)
Roshan
Hi Roshan,
You will be well served to save your money and buy better quality lenses over time. If you do decide to buy the D7000 I think you will be very happy with it for years to come. It is a good, solid camera with very good dynamic range, colour depth, and very respectable low light performance.
Tom
Hi Thomas,
I enjoyed the way you wrote and didn’t notice when I came to the end of the article.
I’ve been interested in stories in different forms and about 4 years ago I wanted to buy a camera so that I could take photographs of my room on weekly basis and of so many other things in a hope that when I’d write about past in the future I would be able to check the photographs for some help. Then the journey began. I started to search on google and came across point and shoots cameras and somehow I came over Canon EOS 7D and then to dpreview.com and started to read anything about photography and for a week my eyes were glued to my pc’s screen and I knew theoretically a lot about photography. Then after a while my father got me a bridge camera Kodak P880 and at first glance I thought it was a dslr but then I searched about it on internet and found out it’s a bridge camera. I was immensely happy to get my first camera. I had been reading about many aspects of photography but I’d been skipping the shooting in raw part as it needed postprocessing and I was feeling kind of lazy on that part but after using kodak p880 for about a month I suddenly decided to switch to Raw format and ever since I’ve been shooting on Raw format and just a retouch later on on Lightroom gives me amazing results. It’s 8mp and even at base iso of 50 it’s noisy but I’ve learned a lot through this bridge camera and I use it on manual mode even focusing I do manually although it’s really hard to achieve focus. If there wouldn’t be Raw format on this camera then I don’t think I’d get the kind of results after post processing that I’m getting out of this camera. EVF is so small that even when zoomed at it’s maximum length of 140 mm the objects look much smaller through the evf than through my naked eyes. I’m still using this camera and the reason is? I don’t have enough money to buy a dslr yet. My father might buy me a dslr soon so I’d like to ask you some question.
Would you pick D5300 at $700 or D7000 at $750? I’m into video too and I’d love to use that tilting lcd and that 24mp without olpf on D5300 for cropping and getting closer when shooting birds or other distant photography. But the %100 coverage and bigger pentaprism viewfinder of D7000 over D5300’s %95 coverage and smaller pentamirror is very tempting. From photographic point of view which one would you choose? How does 35mm 1.8g dx lens compare in terms of ease of use when coupled with d5300 and D7000?
I’ve just switched to an FX/CX combo (D800/V1) after years of using an FX/DX combo as I’m experimenting with video. My DX system had really become my travel/ and leisure system since I bought a D700 5 years ago and have hardly ever used my D5100 as my backup camera for paid work since going full frame.
Now I have a Nikon D800 and I’m starting to do video, so currently have V1 with ft adaptor + CX lenses 10mm f/2.8, 18.5mm f/1.8, 6.7-13mm and the 10-100mm power zoom. I’ll probably get the V3 but disappointed with some of the features as mentioned by others.
I travel for much of my paid work so need a lightweight kit. I also wanted longer better depth of field for some video, an EVF camera for outdoor shooting, a wide angle capability and zoom capability.. Overall, the V1 (or soon-to-be V3) seems to fit the bill best.
I now have a full, lightweight system for travel and compliments my D800, so my DX kit is a bit redundant and I’m not sure whether I’ll keep it.
Hi Phil,
I was also disappointed with some of the choices that Nikon made with the V3 (micro SD, new battery)…but after reviewing many of the positive video enhancements I bit the bullet, sold my beloved V2 last week and ordered a V3 (I’ll be doing a review on it here on Photography Life once I get my copy).
I think the 10-30 PD zoom is going to be great for video, and the flip screen and touch screen focusing capability to do rack focusing of the V3 will be great features to add production value….as will being able to shoot 1080 in 60p and 720 in 120p.
I’m thinking about adding a 10-100 PD zoom to my kit…how do you like using the one you have?
I’ll be interested in knowing if you decide to keep your DX gear, or if you make the same decision that I did to sell it.
Tom
Tom, someone advised about this crazy deal on the 10-100PD for $249 at Henry’s, you may want to consider it:
www.henrys.com/
At that price it’s tough to say no. I’m on the fence as I’m unsure how much zooming I will be doing as I film (i.e. during the clip) – any thoughts or guidance on that?
Hi KnightPhoto…..
Great minds think alike! I had stumbled on that deal last night after 6pm…and I left a message at a local Henry’s store that is listed as having stock. I have no idea if they do or not, but if I can pick one up today I certainly will at that price….this lens normally retails for over $700.
Being able to zoom on a video clip is a nice technique to work into your productions to help draw attention to something very specific in the scene. For example, starting the scene with an entire industrial machine and zooming in to one specific part that is visibly moving….then perhaps transitioning into a slow-motion clip of that movement.
Movie directors often use the zoom-in to bring someone’s face larger on the screen so their emotions can be captured in more depth. Zoom-outs are often used to create the feeling of vastness…or being alone. A power zoom like the 10-100 PD can add some production value when shooting interviews, people meeting around a table, weddings etc. (although at f/4.5-5.6 its quite slow for poorly lit venues).
There’s an old saying that if the only tool you have is a hammer…then every problem looks like a nail. It’s the same thing with video gear. If the only ‘special effect’ tool a person has is a power zoom they will likely overuse it….but when added in with a slider, jib, and camera stabilizer it creates a powerful arsenal of creative tools.
I currently don’t do a lot of ‘zoom’ scenes with my gear, mainly due to the fact that setting up a manual follow focus takes time that is often at a premium during a tight industrial shoot. Putting the 10-100 PD on a Nikon 1 V3 would open up a range of additional creative options (i.e. the touch screen focusing on the V3 will allow for very easy rack focusing) and I’ll definitely incorporate more zoom moves into my productions, replacing some of the quick-cuts I’ve been using. If I would have had this lens I certainly would have used it 2-3 times at a minimum in each of my recent client productions.
Nasim wrote a great review on this lens, and although he didn’t like the size and weight of it compared to owning the 10-30 and 30-110 combo, he did say that the stills capability was very good. So, if you don’t already have the 30-110 this lens may make a lot of sense as a combo video/stills lens.
Hope this has helped…
Tom
Hi KnightPhoto….
Well….I followed up with Henry’s today and I was able to take advantage of that incredible deal on the 1 Nikon 10-100mm PD lens at $249.99!
It certainly dwarfs my other 1 Nikon lenses but I don’t think it will be too hard to handle. Since I don’t have my Nikon 1 V3 yet I won’t be able to give the new lenses a spin for another week or so.
Tom
Hi Thomas, likewise I also jumped on the 10-100PD Zoom lens deal at Henry’s – at $249 there was nothing to lose! Looking forward to putting this to good use. And once again your descriptions of the type of video shots that might be useful when zooming from a wide-to-tele angle or vice-versa are much appreciated. Gives me something to think about in planning clips.
Am enjoying all your articles so far and look forward to continued learning from them!
Hi KnightPhoto,
I haven’t used mine for any video yet….but I used a 72-77 step-up ring on it so I could mount my polarizing filter on it and I’ve been playing around with the 10-100 PD as a ‘walk-around holiday lens”. I’ve been getting some very nice landscape images with it.
I’ll likely be doing some video articles/tests over the next few months and will include this lens in them.
Tom
I’ve only just started using the 10-100mm PD zoom which I bought at a big discount on Amazon.The images are surprisingly good and more than sufficient for video which has a very smooth zoom too. I use DXO for RAW conversions on all my cameras (which is excellent) and they have the profile for the 10-100mm PD zoom plus all the other CX lenses.
At first I thought the new, smaller 10-30mm PD zoom that comes with the kit would be better as it’s lighter for travel, but I live and work in very sunny areas so have a 72mm ND filter for the 10-100mm to keep the shutter speed down/aperture reasonable and I don’t think the new 10-30mm lens accepts filters
Hi Phil,
Thanks very much for sharing your experience with the 10-100 PD zoom. I purchased a copy of this lens yesterday for an excellent price of $249.99 at Henry’s. Their regular price on the lens is $779.99 so it was a deal that I simply could not pass up.
It is very interesting that you mentioned the size of the lens being a positive….that was one of my considerations as well! Many of my other 1 Nikon lenses take very small filters (40.5mm) and it isn’t feasible to use my existing variable neutral density or polarizing filters with those lenses (I have 77mm filters with some step rings).
As you know, for outdoor video work using a variable neutral filter is an absolute necessity to be able to match up frame rate and shutter speed. I viewed the larger size of the 10-100 as a strong positive as it would extend both the still and video shooting capability of my V3 because its size allows easy use of my existing filters.
I also use DxOMark OpticsPro quite a bit, and like you, I find that my V2 files really seemed to like that particular software. I have version 8…but another reader pointed out that version 9 has an incredible new, noise reduction feature called ‘prime’. I have looked at some examples and it does look fantastic and I’m seriously thinking of upgrading to take advantage of this feature. Since still files with Nikon 1 cameras are noisy due to the smaller sensor, incorporating software into an overall ‘camera system’ can help maximize results from the CX sensor.
You are correct that the new 10-30 PD zoom does not accept any filters at all…so when I get mine with my V3 kit I’m planning on using it for indoor work only.
Tom
Very interesting to hear the thoughts of a professional video shooter. Like you I am a committed FX/CX guy. I am getting the V3 and Nikon 1 70-300. I’m an amateur that does some Theatre/Concert sales with my FX cameras, mostly stills, but the silent mode of my V1 saved my bacon on one Cello shoot where I couldn’t afford to disturb the audience. I used my Sigma 50mm and FT-1 and shot stills with the silent electronic shutter of the V1 and combined it with some D4 CX mode video which is excellent and sharp yet still handles low light like a dream. I love the 1-series when I’m going light for travel and wildlife. Oftentimes what I’ll do is use the big FX rigs all morning and then when lazing around in the afternoon I’ll go light with the 1-system. Or family travel is another big use for my 1-system.
This year I plan to do a decent amount of wildlife video, so the V3 60p and 120p video sounds great. I’ll give it a go with my 500VR FT-1 and V3 for bird videos and have some fun see where that takes me.
Hello Knighthoto,
Great to hear about your success with the Nikon 1 V-series….I think more Nikon DSLR shooters, especially FX body owners are finding that these small cameras are a great compliment to their kit.
I’ve also been looking at the V3 and the 1 Nikon 70-300….it looks like a great combination for hand-held birding shots. I was checking with my Nikon dealer yesterday and they have already sold way more V3’s than they have coming in with their first order, so it looks like a lot of people are starting to wake up to the benefits of the V-series.
Do you use a gimbal head to shoot your wildlife videos? If so, I’d love to know what you use and how you like it.
Tom
Hi Thomas, yes a Jobu Design Black Magic gimbal head on a GT5541 Gitzo tripod. The only thing I find is a gimbal is fairly difficult to move smoothly during a shot. For smaller lenses I have a low end fluid head for panning.
I also need to get busy and get a slider, love the slider look. And a Steady-Cam. Can you tell us how and for what you use a jib for?
Thanks again, enjoyed the description of your experience.
A jib is used to raise your camera up fairly high and can create very dramatic ‘opening shots’ for a scene sequence. Some jibs can get your camera up 10 feet or more for very dramatic shots. I recently added one to my kit….a Kessler Pocket Jib Traveler. I chose this jib because it is very compact, light and can be set up by one person in about a minute. It gives me about 72″ of camera movements, which for my work is adequate. Obviously larger jibs can create more dramatic shots…but weigh a lot more, take larger tripods to mount on, and often need more than one person to set up. I’ll be doing a review on the Kessler Pocket Jib Traveler for Photography Life within the next couple of weeks.
There’s a number of camera sliders out there. Really think about your needs before you buy one. Consider the amount of slide you want to achieve, how much portability you need, smoothness of pulls, and whether you want a manual slider, one with a crank, or motorized. I use a Cinevate Atlas FLT 26″ slider. I chose it because of its small size, light weight, and smooth action due to its ball bearing construction. Again….a review will be coming in the next few weeks on it.
As far as camera stabilizers go I would avoid the cheap 0nes out there. “Steady Cam” is a brand of camera stabilizer. I looked at a few camera stabilizers before I bought one. Some popular models are Steady Cam Merlin and Glidecam (a number of models). I use a CMR Blackbird. A steady cam is one piece of gear that you cannot expect to use well right after you assemble it. It takes quite a bit of practice…and they can be very tiring to use depending on the design as they can put a lot of strain on your wrist and arm. I haven’t used mine too much so I’m only ‘OK’ with operating it. This will be another product I’ll be reviewing in the next month or so…..I’ll need to practice a bit more and build up my arm strength for that one!
Something else you may want to consider is a skater dolly. These can generate wonderful long angle smooth shots when used on smooth floors or table tops. I have a Konova KDS-2000 Skater Dolly that has produced some really nice shots for me. Since my regular slider is fairly small I developed a ‘clever cheat’ with my skater dolly when I need longer slides…..I use it with a piece of shelving. Again….a review will be coming within the next month.
Hope this has helped.
Tom
Thanks Thomas for that fantastic amount of information! I began looking at those items last night already and plotting future purchases – looking forward to your upcoming reviews!
Hi Thomas,
Excellent article as usual, and we can see from the comments that you touched a very sensitive point and created a good discussion
I personally moved from D7000 to D600, also had the issues with the oil but had the shutted replaced by Nikon and now am happy. I also used the Fuji X100 (what a great camera) and bought the V1 when it was at $300 but did not really used it.
With the recent announcement of the V3 my interest to the V1 started again and I am now using it more and found the combination with the D600 i very interesting.
It really depends on what lenses you use on the v1. I checked the 24-85 kit lens, it is OK but nothing really special, but add the 58mm 1.4, you get a very bright, sharp ~170mm tele with a very small DOF, this is a killer combination. It reminded me how much lens matters more than camera.
Combining the V1 with the D600 enables to take a sharp prime and double it. I can use the 58mm both as 58 and 170, I ordered the 105 and will get a ~300 also very sharp. And all this with very low weight.
Yes, you don’t get the same quality than when using a FX camera, but you still get excellent and sharp images.
In addition, i can also take the 6.7-13mm which is very small and also weights nothing, and I have a real wide angle. Think of it, v1+6.7-13mm vs. wide FX zoom + a prime tele. This really opened new possibilities for me.
Kind regards,
Francois
Hi Francois,
Thanks very much for your kind words….much appreciated. I’ve also been playing around with various FX lenses on my V-series to see what works best. My absolute favourite for reach and sharpness is the 70-200 f/4….it is simply awesome on a V2….fast focusing and very sharp..and an efov of 540mm at f/4. I read that Thom Hogan has named this his number one recommendation for added reach.
I also like the 85mm f/1.8 G…it provides an efov of 230mm at f/1.8! There is a bit of colour fringing with high contrast areas if you look for it…but overall an interesting combo. I have used this combination shooting the V2 at the zoo at indoor displays where the light is poor. As long as the subject isn’t moving much….like a spider or snake….it is a very handy combo.
I also have the 6.7-13 Nikon 1 lens and I absolutely love it. I’ve been reading very positive reviews of the 32mm f/1.2 Nikon 1…have you tried that lens?
You should see how well the 1V does with the Prime AIS lenses 50 f/1.4, 85 f1.2 and 105 f/4 all just excellent. I also find the old D70 kit lens 18-70 and the 70-300 f4.5-5.6 perform very well.
Hi Jay,
It would be great to have a place where V-series owners could post shots taken with the FT-1 adapter so we could share our experiences.
Tom
Absolutely! this would be great
I am currently Dublin with the v1 for work and will send the link to the photos I took with the v1
To answer your questions, I did not order the 32, but i did order the 18.5. The reason is that I am less attracted currently by the 85mm focal, I already can use the 58mm on the D600 which makes it a good portrait solution, while the 50mm equivalent can be a good complement to my v1 kit (6.7-13, 18.5, 30-100) if I travel only with the v1. I did not get the 18.5 so I cannot judge it but I also read good reviews on it
Re the 70-200, this is very interesting, but it is quite heavier and bulkier than my other lenses, i am waiting for your review of the new v1 70-300 lens :) certainly not the same quality, but the ability to focus on the full lens is quite important when you use ultra zoom + I am concerned that with the size and weight of the 70-200 I will not use it a lot
Kind regards,
Francois
Hi Thomas and all,
I was on a business trip in Dublin and took with me the v1 with the 6.7-13 and the 58 1.4
Please see the link of photos I took 500px.com/franc…april_2014
It is the first time I took only the v1 and i must say I am quite happy with it, battery life was good and the photos do have this film look that people are mentioning. Also, there is no way I would have brought with me a FX wide angle and tele, too heavy and bulky and I would have missed all those beach shots
Please see more examples of the combination v1 + 58 1.4, it creates great macro opportunities
Kind regards,
Francois
Hi Francois,
I very much enjoyed your photos! One of your images….3rd row 2nd shot from the left, really reminded me of the northeast coast of the South Island in New Zealand.
I also like your flower images. I’ll have to get off my rear and put a short piece together for Photography Life and share some of my ‘photo art’ flower images.
Tom
Thanks Thomas!
Funny you say this, when I was taking some pictures from the plane, the man sitting next to me told me that the 2 best skies in the world are in Ireland and New Zealand. He was from Dublin so probably a bit biased :)
looking forward to see your flower photos + maybe you can start this v1 photos site
Also looking forward if you have any advice on PP for the v1
Kind regards,
Francois
I dumped ALL of my expensive Nikon gear because of a tiny splash of water on the camera body, which totaled the circuitry. I opted for an Olympus OM-D EM-1, which at a mere 16MP resolution produces images that rival and many times even surpass that which I got on my Nikon D7100 at it boasty 24MP and chromatic aberration-prone lenses. Besides that, the Olympus is much smaller, lighter, and… it’s waterproof! Bye, Nikon!
Hi John,
Sounds like you found yourself a winner. I hear lots of good things about Olympus.
Tom