I’m still undecided on what camera to buy. I had a D850 and it constantly underexposed, and I bought the Z7 when it came out and I had focusing problems with it. I think the best Nikon I have owned was the D810. I really want to stick with Nikon, but the competition is steep and some of the other manufactures have some compelling features on their cameras.
It seems as though the Z7II is a great camera, but none of the features stick out above the rest. Since I sold my Z7 I have been using a Fuji XT4, and I have really come to like Fujifilm cameras. I’m debating between buying a Nikon Z7II, a Sony A7R IV, or the Fuji GFX 100S.
My only reservation with the Fuji GFX 100S is it seems the lens choices are somewhat limited, and I’m not sure what’s in the works for the lens line-up down the road, especially with regard to wide-angle lenses.
Nasim, I know you went the route of Fuji medium format some time ago; and with that said do you recommend the Fuji GFX 100S over the Z7 II (landscape, architecture, portrait)?
Wai C.
May 11, 2021 10:58 am
The sample images look great. I notice the lenses are f2.8 or better. What would the photo quality be like with the f4 zooms? Thanks
At web resolution, indistinguishable. At huge print sizes, when using the optimal aperture on each lens, a bit more corner sharpness on the f/2.8 zooms or any Z-series primes.
I am leaning towards getting the 24-70 f4 then one of 20/35/50 f1.8. Thanks for your help.
SSM
May 10, 2021 3:50 pm
Nasim, your following statement isn’t accurate: “Even if you’re adapting lenses via the FTZ adapter rather than using native lenses, you’ll still get about five stops of stabilization assuming your lens has VR (vibration reduction) of its own. If you’re adapting a non-stabilized lens, that drops to about three stops of image stabilization from the Z7 II’s IBIS.” Nikon on their FTZ adapter website states: “For the first time, you can experience fast aperture NIKKOR primes like the AF-S NIKKOR 105mm f/1.4E ED or AF-S NIKKOR 24mm f/1.4G ED with up to 5 stops of 3-axis VR image stabilization. NIKKOR lenses that already have VR, like the AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2.8E FL ED VR, get the added benefit of roll axis for a total of 3-axis VR.” So, for non-stabilized lenses, the IBIS stabilization does not drop to three stops, but is limited to three axes.
It is odd that Nikon claims 5 stops of stabilization with both native and adapted lenses, despite also claiming that native lenses have 5-axis stabilization and adapted lenses only have 3-axis.
The reason for writing the review like that is that our tests show a slight dropoff in IBIS performance with non-VR adapted lenses, corresponding to about 1 or 2 stops less image stabilization. Adapted lenses with VR seem to be just as good as native lenses.
Robert John
May 9, 2021 2:08 am
Sound very good – bot no thanks. I don’t want to print larger than A2. I don’t agree with you in saying that 45mp is a matter of cheap hard drives – it’s also about processing power. I bought a MacBook because I was fed up with other makes failing after 3 years – and my MacBook is now 10 years old (I’m an Apple sceptic, but in fairness they passed that test). I’m not going to trade up just because it can’t cope with large files. It’s a very difficult issue – producing improved goods in an environmentally sustainable manner. And with digital photography, it’s not just the camera. Nor is it just about the Tech – at a recent workshop I had a dilemma about whether to take to task a nature photographer who was talking about flying off to Alaska (from Europe) to photograph wildlife. CO2 anybody? I recently gave away a Nikon D50 – still working after 15 years (and I got it used!). I have A3 prints from it on the wall. Something has to give. I’m not sure what it’s going to be … or when …
Leon Droby
May 3, 2021 1:33 pm
With having one foot in the Nikon Z7 camp and the other in the Fujifilm X-T4 camp, I’m often torn between the two. The thing I favor with Fujifilm is the user interface. So you can imagine my surprise the first time I tried to navigate the menu on the Z7 with the joy stick. No good.
And based on your comments, you found the same; Cannot navigate menu or scroll through photos with the joystick, only with the direction pad”
After doing some reading of the manual however, I came upon this: in the Custom Setting Menu -> f Controls -> f2 Custom control assignment, the joy stick (thumb stick in Nikon speak) can be set to “Same as Direction pad”. Once I did this, I could now navigate the menu with the joy stick.
Two other things I did to make my Z7 more useable (aka Fujifilm like: 1. Set the focus ring to control the aperture. Works whenever I’m using autofocus. When using manual focus, I use the sub-command dial to control the aperture.
2. Set Custom Setting F6 to Yes which makes pressing a button the same as holding it. just makes it easier to make changes turning control dials without having to hold buttons. And tapping the shutter button releases the hold.
Thanks for adding this! I just updated the review.
Last edited 12 days ago by Spencer Cox
Chris Newman
May 3, 2021 7:56 am
Thanks for an excellent, detailed review, particularly of the handling and suitability for genres; I’d been looking forward to it.
I have a D800, and want to upgrade to a high-res Nikon mirrorless sometime.
When the Z7 was introduced, there was a fuss about the banding seen with extreme brightening of dark areas in low-ISO images. Spencer wrote saying this wasn’t a reason for not buying the Z7. I’d have to agree, as I’d have bought one if I’d needed to replace my D800, but whether or not it would have affected many, or any, of my images, I’d have felt short-changed because the camera couldn’t match the excellent useable dynamic range of the near-identical sensor in the D850. Fortunately there was a fuss, and according to other reviews Nikon have resolved the issue with the Z7 II.
I have similar feelings about a 2nd card slot. During my couple of years using a D90 I once accidentally deleted an image I was reviewing. With my D800 I don’t think the backup card has ever saved any images, although it’s been helpful checking for shots I thought I might have taken, but didn’t. However, I value the reassurance of a backup card.
I think the main drawbacks I’d notice switching to the Z7 II would be the absence of a 10-pin terminal and built-in flash. I use my D800 with a Solmeta GPS unit that logs where I took the shot, which way the camera was pointing (provided the unit is in the hot shoe), and for non-photographic interest, shows where and how far I walked when uploaded to Google Earth. It also doubles as a wireless release. I’d want to get the equivalent for a new mirrorless camera, but the side port on the current Nikon models means that the connector would interfere with portrait mounting on a conventional L-bracket. Telescopic substitute brackets are available, but are heavier, more expensive, and must be less stable.
I believe Nikon dropped built-in flashes to enhance weatherproofing, which makes sense. I have the excellent SB-910 Speedlight, but it’s much to big and bulky to carry on the off-chance I’ll need it. My compact camera is a Panasonic Lumix LX100, and that was supplied complete with a separate flash the size of an ice cube that draws power from the camera. I wish Nikon sold an equivalent product. Failing that, their smallest, lightest flash seems to be the discontinued SB-300; if I bought a used one, would it be fully compatible with the Z7 II?
The SB-300 works like normal on the Z7 II, although it’s a pretty limited flash if you have any interest in doing off-camera work. So long as you knew that already, you’ll be good!
Thanks very much for that, Spencer. I’ll make sure I have my SB-910 if I’m expecting to use flash (I rarely use that off-camera – perhaps that’s something I should try more often). But I’ll just want something small and light to carry in my bag for the times when it turns out I could do with a flash, but didn’t bring the SB-910, and will no longer be able to fall back on to the D800’s built-in flash (it can’t be worse off-camera than the D800’s!)
Snapbridge takes care of the GPS logging if you use a smartphone.
Peter Krielaart
May 1, 2021 1:50 am
Graag nog even uitleg: zou niet onze eerste keus zijn voor natuur, maar voor landschap fotografie uitstekend.??? Wat verstaat u onder natuur? Dat is toch ook landschap? Of doelt u op wildlife fotografie zoals vogels en wilde beesten? Al vast bedankt voor een reactie
Ik bedoel “even uitleg”. Beschik nu over een Nikon D750 met een nikon 70-200 f4 en 200-500 5.6. Fotografeer vaak vogels en wil er met de Z7 II duidelijk op vooruit gaan t.o.v de D750. Acht u die kans groot? Al vast bedankt voor een reactie
Hi Peter, it’s meant to say that we like the Z7 II for landscapes, and not as much for wildlife – such as photographing birds in flight. Both of those are “nature photography,” so we didn’t make any general statements about nature photography. It may have been a small mistranslation.
I have a D750 and I also like bird photography. I decided to buy a D500 (although I know it is discontinued) and I have had very good results. Also because of the crop factor I get the most out of my Tamron 150-600mm G2 zoom. I think the Z series does not have a similar one yet. And also in the Z series the performance of the batteries is very bad compared to the D series.
Francisco, you can use the Z6 or Z7 (depending on whether you do a lot of cropping) and use the FTZ adapter with your existing lenses.
Personally, I would wait until Nikon releases more super-telephoto lens options that are native Z mount, so that you don’t have to deal with adapters. Another option is to rent one of the Z cameras and compare to your D500.
But I think both Z6 and Z7 are full frame. I want to continue with the DX to get more out of my Tamron 150-600mm G2 (225-900mm in Dx)
Dale
April 29, 2021 9:30 am
Nasim, does the 1.20 firmware update make necessary an update to your custom user settings file? If so, will you be updating it? I didn’t import your earlier settings, but as I went thru each of them I found myself agreeing with *most* of yours. Sadly, I did not export my own user settings, and other I-menu custom settings. Now, having installed the new firmware, it wiped everything. It will be a big time saver to simply load yours this time and make the few changes necessary for my own workflow, but if you’re going to update them, I’ll wait for an updated posting.
Please review Nikon Z6 ii..
Great review and excellent pictures guys.
I’m still undecided on what camera to buy. I had a D850 and it constantly underexposed, and I bought the Z7 when it came out and I had focusing problems with it. I think the best Nikon I have owned was the D810. I really want to stick with Nikon, but the competition is steep and some of the other manufactures have some compelling features on their cameras.
It seems as though the Z7II is a great camera, but none of the features stick out above the rest. Since I sold my Z7 I have been using a Fuji XT4, and I have really come to like Fujifilm cameras. I’m debating between buying a Nikon Z7II, a Sony A7R IV, or the Fuji GFX 100S.
My only reservation with the Fuji GFX 100S is it seems the lens choices are somewhat limited, and I’m not sure what’s in the works for the lens line-up down the road, especially with regard to wide-angle lenses.
Nasim, I know you went the route of Fuji medium format some time ago; and with that said do you recommend the Fuji GFX 100S over the Z7 II (landscape, architecture, portrait)?
The sample images look great. I notice the lenses are f2.8 or better. What would the photo quality be like with the f4 zooms? Thanks
At web resolution, indistinguishable. At huge print sizes, when using the optimal aperture on each lens, a bit more corner sharpness on the f/2.8 zooms or any Z-series primes.
I am leaning towards getting the 24-70 f4 then one of 20/35/50 f1.8. Thanks for your help.
Nasim, your following statement isn’t accurate:
“Even if you’re adapting lenses via the FTZ adapter rather than using native lenses, you’ll still get about five stops of stabilization assuming your lens has VR (vibration reduction) of its own. If you’re adapting a non-stabilized lens, that drops to about three stops of image stabilization from the Z7 II’s IBIS.”
Nikon on their FTZ adapter website states:
“For the first time, you can experience fast aperture NIKKOR primes like the AF-S NIKKOR 105mm f/1.4E ED or AF-S NIKKOR 24mm f/1.4G ED with up to 5 stops of 3-axis VR image stabilization. NIKKOR lenses that already have VR, like the AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2.8E FL ED VR, get the added benefit of roll axis for a total of 3-axis VR.”
So, for non-stabilized lenses, the IBIS stabilization does not drop to three stops, but is limited to three axes.
It is odd that Nikon claims 5 stops of stabilization with both native and adapted lenses, despite also claiming that native lenses have 5-axis stabilization and adapted lenses only have 3-axis.
The reason for writing the review like that is that our tests show a slight dropoff in IBIS performance with non-VR adapted lenses, corresponding to about 1 or 2 stops less image stabilization. Adapted lenses with VR seem to be just as good as native lenses.
Sound very good – bot no thanks.
I don’t want to print larger than A2.
I don’t agree with you in saying that 45mp is a matter of cheap hard drives – it’s also about processing power. I bought a MacBook because I was fed up with other makes failing after 3 years – and my MacBook is now 10 years old (I’m an Apple sceptic, but in fairness they passed that test). I’m not going to trade up just because it can’t cope with large files.
It’s a very difficult issue – producing improved goods in an environmentally sustainable manner. And with digital photography, it’s not just the camera. Nor is it just about the Tech – at a recent workshop I had a dilemma about whether to take to task a nature photographer who was talking about flying off to Alaska (from Europe) to photograph wildlife. CO2 anybody?
I recently gave away a Nikon D50 – still working after 15 years (and I got it used!). I have A3 prints from it on the wall.
Something has to give. I’m not sure what it’s going to be … or when …
With having one foot in the Nikon Z7 camp and the other in the Fujifilm X-T4 camp, I’m often torn between the two. The thing I favor with Fujifilm is the user interface. So you can imagine my surprise the first time I tried to navigate the menu on the Z7 with the joy stick. No good.
And based on your comments, you found the same; Cannot navigate menu or scroll through photos with the joystick, only with the direction pad”
After doing some reading of the manual however, I came upon this: in the Custom Setting Menu -> f Controls -> f2 Custom control assignment, the joy stick (thumb stick in Nikon speak) can be set to “Same as Direction pad”. Once I did this, I could now navigate the menu with the joy stick.
Two other things I did to make my Z7 more useable (aka Fujifilm like:
1. Set the focus ring to control the aperture. Works whenever I’m using autofocus. When using manual focus, I use the sub-command dial to control the aperture.
2. Set Custom Setting F6 to Yes which makes pressing a button the same as holding it. just makes it easier to make changes turning control dials without having to hold buttons. And tapping the shutter button releases the hold.
Thanks for adding this! I just updated the review.
Thanks for an excellent, detailed review, particularly of the handling and suitability for genres; I’d been looking forward to it.
I have a D800, and want to upgrade to a high-res Nikon mirrorless sometime.
When the Z7 was introduced, there was a fuss about the banding seen with extreme brightening of dark areas in low-ISO images. Spencer wrote saying this wasn’t a reason for not buying the Z7. I’d have to agree, as I’d have bought one if I’d needed to replace my D800, but whether or not it would have affected many, or any, of my images, I’d have felt short-changed because the camera couldn’t match the excellent useable dynamic range of the near-identical sensor in the D850. Fortunately there was a fuss, and according to other reviews Nikon have resolved the issue with the Z7 II.
I have similar feelings about a 2nd card slot. During my couple of years using a D90 I once accidentally deleted an image I was reviewing. With my D800 I don’t think the backup card has ever saved any images, although it’s been helpful checking for shots I thought I might have taken, but didn’t. However, I value the reassurance of a backup card.
I think the main drawbacks I’d notice switching to the Z7 II would be the absence of a 10-pin terminal and built-in flash. I use my D800 with a Solmeta GPS unit that logs where I took the shot, which way the camera was pointing (provided the unit is in the hot shoe), and for non-photographic interest, shows where and how far I walked when uploaded to Google Earth. It also doubles as a wireless release. I’d want to get the equivalent for a new mirrorless camera, but the side port on the current Nikon models means that the connector would interfere with portrait mounting on a conventional L-bracket. Telescopic substitute brackets are available, but are heavier, more expensive, and must be less stable.
I believe Nikon dropped built-in flashes to enhance weatherproofing, which makes sense. I have the excellent SB-910 Speedlight, but it’s much to big and bulky to carry on the off-chance I’ll need it. My compact camera is a Panasonic Lumix LX100, and that was supplied complete with a separate flash the size of an ice cube that draws power from the camera. I wish Nikon sold an equivalent product. Failing that, their smallest, lightest flash seems to be the discontinued SB-300; if I bought a used one, would it be fully compatible with the Z7 II?
The SB-300 works like normal on the Z7 II, although it’s a pretty limited flash if you have any interest in doing off-camera work. So long as you knew that already, you’ll be good!
Thanks very much for that, Spencer. I’ll make sure I have my SB-910 if I’m expecting to use flash (I rarely use that off-camera – perhaps that’s something I should try more often). But I’ll just want something small and light to carry in my bag for the times when it turns out I could do with a flash, but didn’t bring the SB-910, and will no longer be able to fall back on to the D800’s built-in flash (it can’t be worse off-camera than the D800’s!)
Snapbridge takes care of the GPS logging if you use a smartphone.
Graag nog even uitleg: zou niet onze eerste keus zijn voor natuur, maar voor landschap fotografie uitstekend.???
Wat verstaat u onder natuur? Dat is toch ook landschap?
Of doelt u op wildlife fotografie zoals vogels en wilde beesten?
Al vast bedankt voor een reactie
Ik bedoel “even uitleg”.
Beschik nu over een Nikon D750 met een nikon 70-200 f4 en 200-500 5.6.
Fotografeer vaak vogels en wil er met de Z7 II duidelijk op vooruit gaan t.o.v de D750.
Acht u die kans groot?
Al vast bedankt voor een reactie
Hi Peter, it’s meant to say that we like the Z7 II for landscapes, and not as much for wildlife – such as photographing birds in flight. Both of those are “nature photography,” so we didn’t make any general statements about nature photography. It may have been a small mistranslation.
Thanks Spencer
I have a D750 and I also like bird photography. I decided to buy a D500 (although I know it is discontinued) and I have had very good results. Also because of the crop factor I get the most out of my Tamron 150-600mm G2 zoom. I think the Z series does not have a similar one yet. And also in the Z series the performance of the batteries is very bad compared to the D series.
Thanks Francisco
And which of the Z series do you recommend me to replace the nikon D500 in sports and bird photography? Or is it better that I stay with her?
Francisco, you can use the Z6 or Z7 (depending on whether you do a lot of cropping) and use the FTZ adapter with your existing lenses.
Personally, I would wait until Nikon releases more super-telephoto lens options that are native Z mount, so that you don’t have to deal with adapters. Another option is to rent one of the Z cameras and compare to your D500.
But I think both Z6 and Z7 are full frame. I want to continue with the DX to get more out of my Tamron 150-600mm G2 (225-900mm in Dx)
Nasim, does the 1.20 firmware update make necessary an update to your custom user settings file? If so, will you be updating it? I didn’t import your earlier settings, but as I went thru each of them I found myself agreeing with *most* of yours. Sadly, I did not export my own user settings, and other I-menu custom settings. Now, having installed the new firmware, it wiped everything. It will be a big time saver to simply load yours this time and make the few changes necessary for my own workflow, but if you’re going to update them, I’ll wait for an updated posting.
Dale, I will be updating that article in the next few days with the latest info and firmware files.