I bought the Z6. Do you think anyone wants to wait three years for this latest update, then memorize this excellent page about autofocus, and know that the z6 is still the worst of Nikon’s mirrorless SLR cameras?
I threw my Z6 out the window.
Who needs it?
Potter
January 31, 2021 6:02 pm
I am currently considering selling my A7iii and lenses to go back to Nikon, I have only had it for a few months but the menu system is awful, the EVF is also poor, I have to look through the viewfinder to see the picture as the resolution is really bad. I just don’t enjoy using it. What is the EVF like on the Z6, I have read it is better? Also is the “kit” lens any good? Thanks
Mr Mart
January 18, 2021 9:08 am
May I suggest that when photographing stars you set focus to manual and focus at iinfinity – unless, of course, you have a lens with a distance scale in light years!
Björn Schönfeld
October 4, 2020 4:40 am
I’m a professionaI wedding and portraitphotographer with over 10 years experience and round about 40-50 weddings a year. In september 20 i just changed my hole system from two d810 with all 1.4 prime lenses to the Z System with 2 Z6 and the 24,35,85mm 1.8 primes after testing the Z6 for the first time. This system is a complete new world in terms of possibilities! I was used think, that there’s nothing to make my life easier and that i can go on with my trusted d810s. I was so wrong. I’m just blown away by the Z6. Eye Af and high Iso performance is far beyond of what the 810 could deliver. I’ve a lot more sharp images now and i can shoot (nearly) silent in low light situations where the d810 has gone. The S line primes are superb in terms of sharpness wide open, colour and contrast. I had some serious trouble with my self in fear of the number of pictures i get from one akku, but theres really no problem if you turn on the flightmode and switch off the snapbridge. I get around 1200 pictures in full resolution, 14bit raw mode. Don’t know why nikon is saying that you just get 310 pictures…. My hole workflow is a lot faster now. Colors from the Z6 a superb, in lightroom there is less to do than before. THIS System for me is the future! Last think to say about the single cardslot. With my D810, D3s’s and all my cameras i’ve used the last 10 years, i never had one cardfailure! Never! I’ve done over 400 weddings and i always have 2 bodies in use side by side. Its nearly impossible that i will come home without a picture. I have a very solid backup system at home. After i experienced the huge advantages of the z6 i just decided to live with this one card slot.
With the D810 having 36MP and no Ibis, I reckon you should expect more sharp images on a Z6 (even with adapted F mount lenses.
Alex
October 3, 2020 1:25 pm
First of all thank you very much for the great site! I read it for many years. And I’ve learned a lot here. …and I’m a Nikon guy because of you… and my ex-wife too ;) Your sensor cleaning solution is also the best one!
I’ve just read that there is some problem with the autofocus fine-tune functionality in the latest firmware for Z6 and Z7. And to say the truth I’m little bit confused because you write the following:
”Unlike DSLR cameras that have a separate phase-detection autofocus system that does not always match the lens, mirrorless cameras focus right on the sensor plane. This basically eliminates focus variances between the camera body and the lens and removes the need for fine-tuning lenses”.
Thus I don’t understand why the autofocus fine-tune option does exist in mirrorless cameras at all, if the autofocus phase detection sensors are located right at the sensor plane? What do I miss?
“The autofocus issue is a bigger problem in the long run since it’s not something that will be fixed by a third-party product. Specifically, the FTZ adapter leads to noticeably slower autofocus than a comparable native lens, and the camera also gives up more easily before it has acquired focus.”
So is it really awful? What can and can’t you do with F mount lenses (not considering, of course, the screw-drive AF ones). I’ve got all this F mount glass, and converting to Z lenses is, well, a bit of a cost barrier. Has anyone compared the Fringer EF-NZ to the FTZ as well?
Hi, been using Fringer EF-NZ adapter since several months now, and I must say it’s really very good. Though I didn’t compare it technically speaking with the FTZ – as lenses I use with either adapter are very different, so I’m not sure it’ll be relevant anyway – I can say I use it more often than the FTZ by now. So, maybe it’s significant. Anyway, autofocus on the Z6 is way better since V3 firmware, and I had very few problems with it since then, even with addition of FTZ+TC 1.4 III, for instance.
Joe Varghese
May 26, 2020 12:41 pm
Hi Nasim One more excellent review. Thanks.
How difficult is processing the raw files. I tried nikon Cature NX2 and I keep getting error about lens profile, can’t switch that off either. Photoshop Camera Raw does not process it. I have issues with DNG converter also, I do not prefer that anyway.
What’s is your work flow? Were there real issues with processing of raw data?
Thank you
Shirish
May 9, 2020 9:21 pm
First things first – thank you for an exceptionally detailed review. I think that Nikon has got most things right with the Z6 . I have shifted from a venerable D3000 to the Z6 and it’s like being on another planet . As an enthusiast I find the learning curve of the Z6 to be very user friendly, the EVF is just unbelievable and the icing on the cake is that my old Nikkor and Sigma glass is working absolutely fine. In fact I am able to get much better low light compositions than before from these lenses . Overall an excellent fit for me .
Gerry
April 21, 2020 12:52 pm
A question regarding focus stacking (focus shift on the Z6):
I have been using the focus shift feature on the Nikon Z6 with the z 35mm prime lens on landscape pictures. I was wondering whether one would get better results if using a zoom lens rather than a prime. Any experience on this issue?
Thanks,
Forrest
April 10, 2020 12:42 pm
First off, thank you for your excellent review! I believe these cameras are better than most people realize. I am conflicted about which camera to buy: the Z6 or Z7. They are so close in features with one main difference – sensor size (and $1,200).
All over the internet, you read that 24 MP image size is more than enough. If so, why buy a Z7? Couldn’t you just uprez the image using Topaz AI (or other software) if you needed a larger file? This would be an interesting test, both on the computer and on an enlarged print at normal viewing distances. The other issue is that most lenses cannot resolve to 46MP, so why should we consider getting the Z7?
I bought the Z6. Do you think anyone wants to wait three years for this latest update, then memorize this excellent page about autofocus, and know that the z6 is still the worst of Nikon’s mirrorless SLR cameras?
I threw my Z6 out the window.
Who needs it?
I am currently considering selling my A7iii and lenses to go back to Nikon, I have only had it for a few months but the menu system is awful, the EVF is also poor, I have to look through the viewfinder to see the picture as the resolution is really bad. I just don’t enjoy using it. What is the EVF like on the Z6, I have read it is better? Also is the “kit” lens any good? Thanks
May I suggest that when photographing stars you set focus to manual and focus at iinfinity – unless, of course, you have a lens with a distance scale in light years!
I’m a professionaI wedding and portraitphotographer with over 10 years experience and round about 40-50 weddings a year. In september 20 i just changed my hole system from two d810 with all 1.4 prime lenses to the Z System with 2 Z6 and the 24,35,85mm 1.8 primes after testing the Z6 for the first time. This system is a complete new world in terms of possibilities! I was used think, that there’s nothing to make my life easier and that i can go on with my trusted d810s. I was so wrong. I’m just blown away by the Z6. Eye Af and high Iso performance is far beyond of what the 810 could deliver. I’ve a lot more sharp images now and i can shoot (nearly) silent in low light situations where the d810 has gone. The S line primes are superb in terms of sharpness wide open, colour and contrast. I had some serious trouble with my self in fear of the number of pictures i get from one akku, but theres really no problem if you turn on the flightmode and switch off the snapbridge. I get around 1200 pictures in full resolution, 14bit raw mode. Don’t know why nikon is saying that you just get 310 pictures…. My hole workflow is a lot faster now. Colors from the Z6 a superb, in lightroom there is less to do than before. THIS System for me is the future! Last think to say about the single cardslot. With my D810, D3s’s and all my cameras i’ve used the last 10 years, i never had one cardfailure! Never! I’ve done over 400 weddings and i always have 2 bodies in use side by side. Its nearly impossible that i will come home without a picture. I have a very solid backup system at home. After i experienced the huge advantages of the z6 i just decided to live with this one card slot.
With the D810 having 36MP and no Ibis, I reckon you should expect more sharp images on a Z6 (even with adapted F mount lenses.
First of all thank you very much for the great site! I read it for many years. And I’ve learned a lot here. …and I’m a Nikon guy because of you… and my ex-wife too ;) Your sensor cleaning solution is also the best one!
I’ve just read that there is some problem with the autofocus fine-tune functionality in the latest firmware for Z6 and Z7. And to say the truth I’m little bit confused because you write the following:
”Unlike DSLR cameras that have a separate phase-detection autofocus system that does not always match the lens, mirrorless cameras focus right on the sensor plane. This basically eliminates focus variances between the camera body and the lens and removes the need for fine-tuning lenses”.
Thus I don’t understand why the autofocus fine-tune option does exist in mirrorless cameras at all, if the autofocus phase detection sensors are located right at the sensor plane? What do I miss?
I’ve found the answer to my question here:
blog.reikanfocal.com/2018/…kan-focal/
“The autofocus issue is a bigger problem in the long run since it’s not something that will be fixed by a third-party product. Specifically, the FTZ adapter leads to noticeably slower autofocus than a comparable native lens, and the camera also gives up more easily before it has acquired focus.”
So is it really awful? What can and can’t you do with F mount lenses (not considering, of course, the screw-drive AF ones). I’ve got all this F mount glass, and converting to Z lenses is, well, a bit of a cost barrier. Has anyone compared the Fringer EF-NZ to the FTZ as well?
Thanks.
Hi, been using Fringer EF-NZ adapter since several months now, and I must say it’s really very good.
Though I didn’t compare it technically speaking with the FTZ – as lenses I use with either adapter are very different, so I’m not sure it’ll be relevant anyway – I can say I use it more often than the FTZ by now. So, maybe it’s significant. Anyway, autofocus on the Z6 is way better since V3 firmware, and I had very few problems with it since then, even with addition of FTZ+TC 1.4 III, for instance.
Hi Nasim
One more excellent review. Thanks.
How difficult is processing the raw files. I tried nikon Cature NX2 and I keep getting error about lens profile, can’t switch that off either. Photoshop Camera Raw does not process it. I have issues with DNG converter also, I do not prefer that anyway.
What’s is your work flow? Were there real issues with processing of raw data?
Thank you
First things first – thank you for an exceptionally detailed review. I think that Nikon has got most things right with the Z6 . I have shifted from a venerable D3000 to the Z6 and it’s like being on another planet . As an enthusiast I find the learning curve of the Z6 to be very user friendly, the EVF is just unbelievable and the icing on the cake is that my old Nikkor and Sigma glass is working absolutely fine. In fact I am able to get much better low light compositions than before from these lenses . Overall an excellent fit for me .
A question regarding focus stacking (focus shift on the Z6):
I have been using the focus shift feature on the Nikon Z6 with the z 35mm prime lens on landscape pictures. I was wondering whether one would get better results if using a zoom lens rather than a prime. Any experience on this issue?
Thanks,
First off, thank you for your excellent review! I believe these cameras are better than most people realize.
I am conflicted about which camera to buy: the Z6 or Z7. They are so close in features with one main difference – sensor size (and $1,200).
All over the internet, you read that 24 MP image size is more than enough. If so, why buy a Z7? Couldn’t you just uprez the image using Topaz AI (or other software) if you needed a larger file? This would be an interesting test, both on the computer and on an enlarged print at normal viewing distances. The other issue is that most lenses cannot resolve to 46MP, so why should we consider getting the Z7?
Sensor size is the same ;-)
If you want to print larger than 20 inch, get the z7.
I’ve had no problems printing up to 36″ with clear photos using the Z6