Since full-frame DSLR cameras typically have a 2-3 year life cycle before they are refreshed with newer models, the D610 was an unusual update, as it replaced a camera that was only 13 months old – something that typically only happens with entry-level/consumer DSLRs. The thing is, the Nikon D610 is what the D600 should have been when it was initially launched.
Plagued by a shutter mechanism issue which shred small particles from the shutter that fell directly onto the camera sensor (causing “dust bunnies” visible at small apertures), the Nikon D600 got a lot of negative press from its owners and camera reviewers. We were among the first ones to report the dust issue in our Nikon D600 review and later received many reports from our readers that confirmed the same issue.
In a couple of months, the Internet was full of all kinds of examples of the same issue. Nikon ended up issuing a service advisory that categorized the behavior as “natural accumulation of dust” and suggested to try using the “Clean Image Sensor” feature of the camera, along with manual cleaning with a blower bulb. As a last resort, if those two options failed, Nikon recommended to consult with service centers to get the camera examined and serviced. Unfortunately, despite all the reported issues, service orders and returns from unhappy customers, Nikon never acknowledged the problem.
The Nikon D610 was announced on October 8, 2013. To make it seem like it was a real upgrade over the D600, Nikon threw in a couple of extra changes to the camera, such as faster frame rate, quiet continuous shooting mode and improved white balance. Nikon also lowered the MSRP price of the camera to $1999 from $2099 that the D600 initially sold for. This was done for two reasons – the Nikon D600 was already discounted by $100 for a while, and Nikon wanted to stay competitive with the Canon EOS 6D during the holiday shopping season.
All this obviously infuriated existing Nikon D600 owners, as evidenced by the numerous comments on our D610 announcement article. Many felt cheated and betrayed, arguing that Nikon should have either acknowledged and addressed the dust issue by issuing a recall, or replaced existing D600 units with the new D610 at no charge…
The Nikon D610 hit the store shelves very quickly – less than 2 weeks from the announcement date. I received a sample unit the day the camera became available and I have another one on its way for additional testing. My goal was to test at least two samples of the D610 to make sure that the dust issue is indeed fully addressed. Since the Nikon D610 is exactly the same camera as the D600 minus the new shutter mechanism and the minor changes mentioned above, I will simply re-post most of the information from my existing review of the Nikon D600. If you are here to read about my analysis of the shutter mechanism and if it addresses the dust problem, please go directly to the page 2 of this review.
1) Nikon D610 vs D600
Here are the differences between the new D610 and the D600:
- A New Shutter Mechanism – clearly, the issue on the Nikon D600 was the actual shutter mechanism that somehow shed particles on the sensor. Nikon completely replaced it with a different shutter, which not only addresses this dust issue, but also allows for a slightly faster frame rate (see next point).
- Faster Frame Rate of 6 FPS – the Nikon D600 had a 5.5 FPS continuous shooting speed and the D610 is now slightly faster at 6 FPS.
- New Improved Automatic White Balance – not that we had any complaints on the previous white balance performance of the D600, but for some reason Nikon decided to upgrade it as well. This one seems to be just a slight firmware improvement.
- Quiet Continuous Shooting Mode – this one is a new feature, designed to work at 3 FPS.
Reading some of the marketing material from the D610, I first thought that Nikon also made modifications to weather sealing. After looking at both the D600 and the D610 side by side, I cannot identify any improvements in weather sealing. The construction of both cameras appears identical, with the same sealing and this includes battery and memory card compartments.
The Nikon D610 shares exactly the same components as the original Nikon D600, including the 24.3 MP digital sensor. As you will see on the next pages of this review, with a native ISO range of 100-6400, the Nikon D610 provides pretty clean images throughout the ISO range for both daylight and low-light environments. Built to be affordable, it does not have the same robust autofocus system used on the D800 and D4 cameras, so it comes with an older 39 point AF system used on the Nikon D7000. Its shutter speed is limited to 1/4000th of a second and its flash sync is also limited to 1/200th of a second, which might be a disappointment for some photographers out there. However, it has 100% viewfinder coverage, 6 fps speed (which is faster than the D800’s 4 fps) and has the same 3.2″ LCD monitor with 921,000 pixels used on the latest Nikon DSLR models. And movie fans will be delighted to see impressive 1080p video with uncompressed HDMI output.
3) Nikon D610 Specifications
Main Features and Specifications:
- Sensor: 24.3 MP FX
- Sensor Size: 35.9 x 24mm
- Resolution: 6016 x 4016
- DX Resolution: 3936 x 2624
- Native ISO Sensitivity: 100-6,400
- Boost Low ISO Sensitivity: 50
- Boost High ISO Sensitivity: 12,800-25,600
- Processor: EXPEED 3
- Metering System: 3D Color Matrix Meter II with face recognition
- Dust Reduction: Yes
- Weather Sealing/Protection: Yes
- Body Build: Magnesium Alloy
- White Balance: Updated White Balance System
- Shutter: Up to 1/4000 and 30 sec exposure
- Shutter Durability: 150,000 cycles
- Storage: 2x SD slots
- Viewfinder Coverage: 100%
- Speed: 6 FPS
- Exposure Meter: 2016 pixel RGB sensor
- Built-in Flash: Yes, with Commander Mode, full CLS compatibility
- Autofocus System: MultiCAM 4800FX AF with 39 focus points and 9 cross-type sensors
- LCD Screen: 3.2 inch diagonal with 921,000 dots
- Movie Modes: Full 1080p HD @ 30 fps max
- Movie Exposure Control: Full
- Movie Recording Limit: 20 minutes @ 30p, 30 minutes @ 24p
- Movie Output: MOV, Compressed and Uncompressed
- In-Camera HDR Capability: Yes
- Two Live View Modes: One for photography and one for videography
- Camera Editing: Lots of in-camera editing options with HDR capabilities
- GPS: Not built-in, requires GP-1 GPS unit
- Battery Type: EN-EL15
- Battery Life: 900 shots
- USB Standard: 2.0
- Weight: 760g (body only), 850g (with battery and memory card)
- Price: $1,999 MSRP
A detailed list of camera specifications is available at NikonUSA.com.
4) Camera Construction and Handling
While the Nikon D610 does not have the same full magnesium-alloy frame like the D800 or D4, it still has a tough body covered with magnesium alloy on the top and the rear of the camera, as seen in the below image (the MB-D14 grip is attached in the photo):
Some photographers think that the Nikon D610 might have a problem with heavy lenses like Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G VR, developing a potential issue with the lens mount over time. You have to use common sense when mounting heavy lenses like Nikon 70-200mm on any camera body. There is a reason why the 70-200mm and longer/heavier lenses have tripod mounts. You should never let a heavy lens dangle off the camera mount – you are just asking for trouble when doing that. I don’t even do it on my Nikon D3s, which is built like a tank. Will plastic bend if I let the D610 support a heavy lens? It might a little, but it will typically go back to its original shape. Whereas if metal bends, you know it stays there. Another thing to keep in mind, is that metal will expand and shrink when temperatures change drastically, whereas plastic has a much higher tolerance in comparison. So there are pros and cons to using both plastic and metal in camera equipment and there is no such thing as plastic not being able to handle heavy lenses. Just use your common sense and handle heavy lenses properly.
In addition to tough construction, the Nikon D610 is also weather-sealed. This means that the camera should be able to survive in light rain, dust and humid environments without getting damaged. So far I have taken the camera to cold, rainy and humid conditions and it passed the survival test. Here it is, after getting exposed to about 5 minutes of light rain:
Once I got home, I let it dry out and it worked without any problems afterwards.
Handling-wise, the camera is excellent. True, it does not have the same soft rubber grip from the D800, but it is still pretty comfortable to hand-hold. The front of the camera looks almost identical to the one on the Nikon D7100, with two programmable buttons and the same flash, bracket and lens release buttons, along with the AF/M switch. The left top dial, along with the rest of the layout on the top looks very much like the Nikon D7100 as well.
The control layout on the back of the camera again looks very much like the D7100 – five buttons on the left of the LCD, same Live View and Info buttons, a smaller multi-selector button with a lock. Like on all lower-end DSLRs, the AF-ON button is not there, so if you want to be able to focus and recompose, you will have to program the AE-L/AF-L button for focusing. On a negative note, the center button on the multi-selector dial cannot be programmed like on high-end DSLRs. This is a bummer for me, since I am very used to being able to zoom in to 100% view instantly without having to press the zoom in button many times. On the D610, you will have to press the zoom in button 8 times to get to 100% view! I don’t understand why Nikon decided to strip this important feature from all lower-end DSLRs, since it can be easily programmed to the camera firmware. Surprisingly, the Nikon D7100 has this ability, so it is pretty evident that Nikon decided to purposefully remove this particular feature from the D610.
The memory card door is designed exactly as on the D7000/D7100 – you slide the door out forward and it opens up to the side. There are two SD card slots that can be set in 3 different configurations: Overflow, Backup and RAW/JPEG. I typically use the Overflow configuration since it gives me two cards to write to, but if I am shooting a commercial project, I switch to Backup. The same with the battery door/battery compartment – like the D7000/D7100/D800, it is also designed with a safety holder that prevents the EN-EL15 battery from falling down when the door opens.
One big thing I noticed right away when firing my first test shot with the D610, is how quiet its shutter/mirror movement sound. If you own a Nikon D700, D800, D3s, D4 and similar cameras, you know how loud those cameras can be. The D610 is way quieter in comparison and that’s without using the special “Q” (Quiet) release mode! When photographing wildlife, especially wild birds, I always wished my cameras produced less noise, since the very first exposure typically scares the heck out of them. The D610 has a nice damped sound, similar to the D7000/D7100 and some Canon DSLRs.
The “Quiet” mode (Q) on the secondary dial is implemented differently than regular shutter release. Instead of raising the mirror, opening / closing the shutter and then lowering the mirror all in one sequence, the quiet mode raises the mirror slower, then takes a picture and until the shutter button is released, the mirror stays up (the mirror will stay up for as long as you continue depressing the shutter button).
With the D610, Nikon added another “Qc” mode to the secondary dial. This mode works similarly to the “Q” mode described above, except due to the slower raising / lowering of the mirror, the frame rate is decreased to 3 fps and the camera will shoot continuously as long as the shutter button is depressed.
5) Viewfinder Size
While many of the camera controls and the general layout on the camera are borrowed from the D7000/D7100, the full frame sensor on the D610 requires a much larger mirror and pentaprism, which means that the viewfinder is much bigger in comparison to any DX camera, including the D7000/D7100. How big is the difference, you might ask? It is huge! Once you look through the viewfinder on the D610, you will quickly realize what you have been missing on your DX camera. Size-wise, it is as big as the viewfinder on the Nikon D800!
One of the major concerns from our readers has been the spread of the autofocus points inside the viewfinder. While AF performance and accuracy are discussed in detail under the “Autofocus Performance” section, let me shed some light on this topic here. True, the autofocus points on the D610 are tightly squeezed in a much smaller area compared to the D7000 – that’s a given, since the viewfinder is so much bigger. If you compare the D300s to the D700/D800, the difference is very similar. However, if you compare any full-frame Nikon to the D610, you will see that the AF area is actually not much smaller in comparison. Take a look at the below viewfinder comparison:
As you can see, the difference in AF area coverage is not as bad as some think when compared to other Nikon full-frame cameras. If you are upgrading from the D7000, however, you will surely notice the difference between the two. And if you decide to move up from the D7100, the difference is even bigger, since the D7100 has a 51-point AF system that covers much of the frame:
If you are used to composing your images with far left/right focus points, then you will have to learn the “focus and recompose” technique, something many DX shooters have to learn when upgrading to FX.
6) Camera Menu System and Ease of Use
The camera menu system very much resembles all other Nikon DSLRs, but there are some great features and fixes worth talking about. One major advantage of the D610/D7000/D7100 cameras over all higher-end Nikon DSLRs is a working user preset system. Unlike the dual Shooting Menu and Custom Settings Banks system that doesn’t work (I leave those blank on my D800E and D3s), Nikon uses a much better user preset system on the D610/D7000/D7100. You have two programmable presets on the camera: U1 and U2 (accessible from the camera dial), which work perfectly for customizing the cameras for different needs. I set up my D610 for two presets – Landscape (U1) and Portraits (U2). When photographing landscapes, I always shoot in Manual Mode, with Auto ISO turned Off (ISO set to 100), 14-bit RAW, AF-S in Single Focus mode. So I programmed all those settings to U1 (Tip: if you want to set your U1/U2 presets to anything other than Program Mode, start in the desired camera mode like Aperture Priority, then Save user settings to U1/U2). For photographing portraits, I prefer shooting in Aperture Priority Mode, Auto ISO turned On (ISO Sensitivity: 100, Max Sensitivity: 3200, Min Shutter Speed: Auto), 12-bit RAW, AF-C in Dynamic Focus mode with 39 AF Points. I saved all these settings to U2. The beauty of this user preset system, is that when I photograph landscapes, I simply rotate the left top switch to U1 and I do not have to go into the camera menu for anything else. When photographing people, I switch to U2 and I am all set. Very simple and straightforward. I do not understand why Nikon does not implement this very useful preset system on high-end DSLRs – the dual bank system is plain stupid and useless in comparison.
If you are upgrading from the Nikon D7000, you will love the enhanced Auto ISO feature that was first implemented with the D800/D4 cameras. When selecting the “Minimum Shutter Speed”, you now have an option called “Auto”, which will automatically set the minimum shutter speed to the focal length of the lens. For example, if you are shooting with a 50mm lens, the minimum shutter speed will be set to 1/50 of a second. If you can handle slower shutter speeds, you can set “Auto” to be 1/2 or 1/4 the focal length of the lens. Or if you have shaky hands, you can set it to 2x or 4x the focal length of the lens. Think of “Auto” as -2, -1, 0, +1, +2, similar to exposure compensation in full stops. If your focal length is 50mm, your “Auto” setting would look like this: 1/13, 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/200. The default would be 1/50, but if you go one step slower your shutter speed would be fixed at 1/25 of a second, while going two steps faster would increase the minimum shutter speed to 1/200 of a second. Many of us have been asking for this feature for many years now and I am very happy with this implementation, although I hope Nikon takes it a step further, by automatically compensating for VR as well.
Just like the Nikon D800/D800E/D4 cameras, the Nikon D610 also comes with an advanced “Exposure Delay” mode with up to 3 second delay (d4 in Custom Setting Menu) that can be used in conjunction with “Self-Timer”. For example, you can set the Self-Timer to 5 seconds and turn Exposure Delay on with a 3 second delay. Once the shutter button is pressed, the camera will wait for five seconds, raise the mirror, wait for three seconds, then open and close the shutter, then put the mirror back down. This will prevent pretty much any sort of camera shake – equivalent of using mirror lock up (MLU) mode with a cable release. I have not taken my cable release out since I have been using the D800, since this combination does an excellent job.