Thanks to your support, we will be publishing a lot more reviews of the old Nikkor classics that we either purchased on auction sites, or loaned from our readers. This is a review of a true classic, the Nikon NIKKOR-H Auto 28mm f/3.5 (Ai modified), which was manufactured way back in 1959. One of our readers, Joe Ridley, was kind enough to send a number of Nikkor classics, and this lens is the first one that we are reviewing. Please note that such reviews of classic lenses will be limited to one page, with a small number of image samples. Still, full lab measurements will be performed on each lens for thorough analysis and comparisons.
Table of Contents
Nikon NIKKOR-H Auto 28mm f/3.5 Ai Overview
The NIKKOR-H Auto 28mm f/3.5 is one of the earliest, Pre-Ai Nikkor manual focus wide-angle lenses for the F mount. Initially launched in 1959, this lens went through several iterations over time with slightly different optical designs. The lens is available in various auction sites including eBay, but an Ai-converted version is really hard to come by. If you do decide to purchase one, you have to get the lens Ai-converted to properly mount on modern DSLRs. If you do not do this, you risk damaging your DSLR, since the non-Ai version could either break the metering tab/lever on the lens mount, or could get stuck on the mount and potentially cause other damage.
If you get an Ai version of the lens, or get it properly converted, it will work on any modern DSLR. On lower-end bodies, metering will not work, but if you have anything above D7000, metering will work just like on any other manual focus lens. I used this lens on both the Nikon D600 and D800E camera bodies and the lens performed perfectly fine.
And by the way, if you have the new Nikon Df camera, you do not have to worry about converting lenses – even pre-Ai lenses will mount on the Df. The only thing you will have to do is manually change the aperture on the camera to match the one picked on the lens, since the camera would have no way of knowing it.
With a maximum aperture of f/3.5, the lens is obviously not a speed demon. However, despite its maximum aperture of f/3.5, the Nikon 28mm f/3.5 is designed to be very sharp wide open, as you will see below. Sadly, only its center shines in optical performance – due to its rather soft edges, the lens is not well-suited for landscape photography, where edge-to-edge sharpness is often desired. The lens would be a little better on a cropped sensor camera, but the edge performance would again suffer quite a bit, especially on high-resolution sensors. Still, this lens was very interesting to evaluate, because it shows the many problems that some of the older lens designs were plagued with.
I won’t bore you with specifications here, but if you want to check them out, see the NIKKOR-H Auto 23mm f/3.5 page in our Lens Database.
Handling and Build Quality
Despite its age, the lens handles very well. The focus ring is very smooth and comes to a hard stop at the minimum focus distance and the infinity focus mark. When focusing, the lens barrel slightly moves forward by about 2-3mm, but it is almost unnoticeable. Changing aperture through the ring on the lens is easy – not too loose or too stuff, with noticeable “clicks” between apertures. The sample I tested was heavily used, with marks on the lens body and even some slight scratches on the glass elements.
And yet it still performs great, which shows just how good the Japanese craftsmanship was back in the days. These lenses are literally built to last a lifetime, even with plenty of abuse – something that I unfortunately cannot really say about the modern plastic Nikkor lenses. With 6 elements in 6 groups and a small size, the lens feels relatively light compared to other Nikkor classics. But don’t be fooled to think that there are plastic parts in this lens – the lens is all metal, both inside and outside. It is basically just bare metal and glass.
MTF Performance
How is the Nikon 28mm f/3.5 optically? Let’s take a look at our lab results, measured by Imatest:
Right off the bat at the maximum aperture of f/3.5, this lens performs incredibly well in the center. Considering that the Nikon 28mm f/3.5 was measured on the high-resolution Nikon D800E, this is very impressive. Unfortunately, due to a severe case of field curvature, performance degrades sharply away from the center, even in the mid-frame. The performance improves very slightly at f/4, and the peak performance is reached at around f/5.6 mark in the center. Unfortunately, mid-frame and corner performance stay below average all the way to f/11 and even then it is not anywhere close to what the center can resolve. For best overall performance, the lens should be stopped down to f/11, as can be seen from the above chart.
If you want a much more even sharpness distribution, check out the modern Nikon 28mm f/1.8G. While it might not be stellar in the center, its overall performance is much better in comparison, especially in the corners. Here is the MTF result for comparison:
Distortion
Overall, the distortion is controlled quite well for a wide angle lens. However, the NIKKOR-H Auto 28mm f/3.5 suffers from a slight “mustache distortion“, which is visible when looking at straight vertical or horizontal lines. Imatest measured barrel distortion at 0.22%, which is not bad. In comparison, the Nikon 28mm f/1.8G has more pronounced barrel distortion at 1.25%.
Chromatic Aberrations
Chromatic aberration levels are moderate, at over 1 pixel on average, as shown below:
Vignetting
Vignetting is quite strong wide open, reaching as much as 2 full stops of difference in the corners. As the lens is stopped down, vignetting is reduced considerably. By f/5.6 vignetting is reduced to less than a stop and is almost fully gone at f/11:
Here is an illustration of the worst case scenario, shot at f/3.5:
Ghosting and Flare
The lens has a 5 blade diaphragm, which shows in pictures when a bright source of light is in the frame. Interestingly, the lens can produce sun stars even at the maximum aperture of f/3.5, and it handles ghosting and flare surprisingly well:
Summary
The NIKKOR-H 28mm f/3.5 is a solid lens with an all-metal construction. While its performance is quite good in the center, with peak performance reached at f/5.6, the mid-frame and corners are very weak due to heavy field curvature. The effect of field curvature is so heavy, that the lens requires stopping down to f/11 to get average results throughout the frame. Focusing on the corners can yield sharper results, but it blurs the center and mid-frame severely. Hence, unless only center sharpness is desired, this is not a good candidate for modern digital cameras. If you want a good wide-angle lens for your DSLR, the Nikon 28mm f/1.8G (see our in-depth review) would be a much better choice.
Nikon NIKKOR-H Auto 28mm f/3.5 Ai
- Optical Performance
- Features
- Bokeh Quality
- Build Quality
- Handling
- Value
- Size and Weight
Photography Life Overall Rating
If you’re going to post articles, you might want to do your research first rather than publishing misinformation. The NIKKOR-H Auto 28mm f3.5 in its pre-AI (unconverted) factory state, contrary to what you wrote, will not damage new DLSRs like the D780. The aperture ring is small enough that it does not interfere with the meter coupling tab on the body. As a result, you can use the lens as is but of course any metering will have to be done at shooting aperture. This lens is one of the few in the Nikon line that can be used without conversion. Do your homework next time.
Like Dave Sharp, I too returned to film photography as I was fed up of having to remember to charge batteries. I wanted something to simply ‘pick up’.
I bought a pair of Nikon F bodies, chrome, 1965 and 1962 build dates. 1 with plain prism, 1 with no finder. I then got a waist level finder for this spare body. Saves on weight.
I’ve long preferred the 28mm focal length. I like getting a lot in. Having done street photography I can use the WLF body for discrete work. It became easier after picking up a cable release. Just look the other way and press the button.
I’m now experimenting with having the mirror locked up. With the great DoF of the 28mm Nikkor H, I can keep the lens well stopped down and focus on 15 feet and with mirror locked up, press my cable release. Shot taken.
A special cable release is needed for the F and F2 cameras. It screws over the button, not into it.
I’m now looking for a 24mm f2.8 N lens.
Nice information so thank you. I returned to film recently after digital killed my enthusiasm. Its film i love. This lens was a huge deal when it came out and i really enjoy the qualities it has. I use its character and benefit from it hugely as a lovely artistic and beautiful rendition. Something more modern lenses lack.
I too like the rendition. I’m not entirely sure what the secret is, but I think back then Nikon had some kind of secret sauce. It’s there in the equally ancient 200/F4Q, if you ever run across one of those. I may not have mentioned it below, but for those of us who haven’t yet gone back to film, this lens comes into its own in DX. A mediocre performer on full frame, the soft edges disappear in DX, and it becomes a very nice 42 mm. sort-of-normal lens, with surprisingly good behavior on things like flare. The earliest ones are also said to be among the best lenses for infrared, but I’ve yet to try that.
I just received the Nikkor Auto 28mm f3.5 lens..I wanted to use it on the Nikon D700 but it seems it is not compatible…can you teach me how to modify it.
Kind of late, probably too late but I will include a link to the quick and dirty conversion I did on mine, just for the record. Note that this was a very early version, of the kind whose rear flange is not screwed on with multiple screws, but must be unthreaded from the body, and it’s not easily done. In this case, though, the skirt of the aperture ring is narrow, and misses the AI follower on the camera completely. This means that it is safe to mount unconverted, but will not couple with the camera’s meter at all. Instead, to provide the meter coupling, one must add a little piece on the top of the ring. I chose to leave the original rabbit ears off, since I don’t use it on a pre-AI camera any more, and to use the screws from that to hold the tab on. The one shown is kind of rough, and was made neater on a second try, but the rough version worked fine. This is also, by the way, how one can couple some other third-party lenses, such as old Vivitars, which cannot be converted by milling.
If your version does clear the AI tab as mine does, you also have the choice of using it as is, but with absolutely no metering. You would have to run the camera in manual mode, and meter by guesswork or external meter. Or you can use A mode, in which the meter will always assume the lens (being automatic) is wide open. So whatever your chosen aperture is, you must use exposure compensation to offset the difference. This latter, by the way, is also the only way you can use an old pre-AI T4 mount lens in A mode, since it is automatic and cannot be coupled.
I recently purchased a new Nikon Df, with plans to use my dad’s old Nikon F pre AI lenses, including the NIKKOR-H Auto 2.8cm/3.5. However, on pg 320 of the manual, this lens is listed as incompatible with the Df if serial number is below 362000 – and mine is 338655. Can’t seem to get a straight answer from Nikon or B&H as to why this is! Any ideas on why it isn’t usable on my camera?
Thank you for reviewing and testing these old lenses. I have a few of them and use them on a Nikon F2 Photomic after my Nikkormat FTN bit the dust a couple of years back. They are quite heavy compared to modern digital gear. However, I just feel that I’ve spent my money wisely when I add another one to my collection. There is an unmistakeable feel and sense of quality about them. You can imagine the top guys from 1960-1977 (when the rubber grips came in with AI lenses) buying and using these all metal lenses. National Geographic guys, Magnum Photo Agency that didn’t use Leica or Contax.
Here’s a pretty handy resource:
www.destoutz.ch/lense…_f3.5.html
you can mouse over the small illustrations and magnify them.
Here’s a another with serial numbers. There is one page for serial numbers, and another for specs:
www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon…ialno.html
It looks as if yours is from somewhere between 1968 and 72. It would appear to be similar to the other pre-AI versions, but convertible to AI, either with milling or a kit if that still exists.
Is there a way to date or figure out which version I have of this lens? It does not have the chrome ring, but the black. Serial number is 689004. However it only says Nikkor H, not HC. Is it the earlier or later version? Thanks.
I think that some of the older lens had a longer skirt. The barrel of the lens hit a newer body before fully mounted.
Yes they have a longer skirt, and most will hit (and damage) the meter follower on an AI compatible camera, Judging from the serial number, this would be the second generation pre-AI version. The HC comes later, the “C” referring to additional coating. There are actually six iterations of this lens, of which four are pre-AI. This one would not be compatible with an AI metering camera unless converted.
Since there was the possibility of converting this lens, look at the back edge of the aperture ring. If it is a uniform depth and smooth all around, it’s an unconverted pre-AI lens. If a part of it is milled away, it is likely a converted one done by a third party. If it is stepped neatly, clearly not milled, and if the pre-AI metering “rabbit ears” have holes in them and the screws face toward the front of the lens, it’s a factory conversion. Although the kits are now mostly gone, and the few left scarce, once upon a time, Nikon made conversions for older lenses which included a completely new aperture ring.
Refer to the Photosynthesis link I mention above for further information on which one you have, as it shows the serial numbers.
If you have one of the lower end cameras that do not meter with any manual lens (the D3x00, D5x00 series, and the D7500) you can safely mount any pre-AI lens withoud damage, but it will never meter. Some earlier models have a minimum aperture switch that operates sideways instead of up and down, and that can be damaged, though.
John White does conversions, and his site includes a compatibility page to explain just what safely fits what: aiconversions.com/
Mine is the first 2.8 CM version, deemed not convertible (but it turns out it is). Its aperture ring actually is safe to mount on an AI camera, because it doesn’t touch the follower at all. To work with an AI meter no milling is required, but instead an added tab to contact the follower.
Thanks for your review. I owe the 28/3,5 in its latest Non-AI version, and I can confirm your results: Quite sharp in the centre, but to the borders it gets disappointing. There are definitively better lenses than this one, even from the sixties.
But if you ever should use this 28/3,5 for infrared photography on an APS camera, then you know what a perfect lens is! OK, I exaggerate a bit, but this lens is the best one below 50mm for infrared which I’ve ever tried. It is surprisingly sharp here, even thought it never was made for infrared; retricted to the APS sensor size its border weakness doesn’t matter a lot, and it is completely free of hotspots (a common infrared nuisance) at all apertures.
Thanks for this review!
I bought one (Ai’d) from Cameta a few years ago, and reading your review help me to finally understand why the pictures taked with this lens have such a distinct look.