Apparently the lens update expands cameras it will work on. It works fine on my D800 and allows manual focus and manual focus override in the body autofocus mode. Marvelous, inexpensive lens.
S R Ravi
June 15, 2021 10:42 am
I have a Tokina 11-16mm with all the markings on the lens barrel and a constant f/2.8 max. aperture and the very “useful sleeping eight”. If the sky is sexy I move to manual focus: to infinity, Spot metering, f/8 and Aperture priority meter for the sky and use it as a point and shoot. Looks like this can’t be done with this Nikon 10-20mm. Removing lens barrel markings in some recent lenses is making life difficult for us amateurs. :))
Fazil
May 31, 2021 4:55 am
Has anyone tried it for astrophotography like Milkyway photography. If so pls share the results
Fred Mueller
February 19, 2021 6:22 pm
I got this lens and the FTZ adapter to use with a Z50 … works great! A little bulkier than it might be if it was native, but actually it gives you a nice lumpy “barrel” to hang onto. Optically there’s just nothing to complain about … a little slow for indoor natural light, but as they say, if you are not getting good results, it’s not the camera.
Colin Gift
July 28, 2020 11:56 am
Right after I bought the new Nikon Z 50 and kit lens Iand I bought this lens (10-30 DX P VR) and 70-300 DX P VR used.. Both lenses work perfectly with the FTZ adapter, and round out that camera as a walkabout kit perfectly. Between all 3 lenses I have pretty much everything I need. Coming from my Nikon Z7 and 14-30 Z mount and older 70-200 f:4, I find the 10-30 DX okay iin image quality in comparison, but the 70-300 DX has excellent image quality, not quite as good as the older F mount at f:4, but pretty much equal if I use the 1.4 Teleconverter with that lens. Just my $.02
Never compare Full frame with the APSC with a wide angle, Full frame wins hands down and in the ease of getting great results and dynamic range. One can’t escape all that shadow noise and loss of detail in an APSC even at base ISO. Compared to my Tokina 11-16mm on Z50, I find Nikon D610 with my Tamron 15-30mm gives stellar results. I literally am relearning to use the Tokina 11-16mm with Z50. Also the processing in LR is totally opposite of what you do for a full frame wide angle, personally. I’m an amateur and shoot only RAW.
Dr:Basavaraj
April 11, 2020 7:26 am
Hi Va’clav.which lenses is better optically? Nikon 10-20 Vs Afp 18-55.
Hi, I would say they are on par, the 10-20mm has a bit weak spot at 18-20mm (with 20mm in particular). I do not remember 18-55mm AF-P version of having a really much softer focal lenghts (compared to other focal lenghts of the same lens). I hope this helps. Vaclav
Joop
November 17, 2019 9:06 am
Dear Vaclav,
One of your conclusions is that the Tokina 11-16mm is overall a better performer. Looking to the examples, I cannot see this or confirm it. At 14mm the edge sharpness of Tokina lens is really bad, look at the f/ 5.6 example. At 18mm, with the 3 lenses next to each other, I think you enlarged it somewhat to match it, it is almost a double exposure at f/5.6 for the Tokina. (You mentioned it outer edge but it is a center crop).
Examples mixed up? Hope to hear from you. Tnx
klaus
October 27, 2019 8:30 am
good review! for info it works very well on d800 in 1.2x crop mode from 12-20mm – and distorsion correction works too😊
Bo Petersen
September 4, 2019 2:15 am
Very good review. I also just purchased this lens and are experimenting with some timelaps clips. So far it looks promising.
Vicky
March 11, 2019 8:46 pm
Dear sir I am using d3200 Nikon camera at present I am planning to upgrade my camera Looking between d5600 , d7200 and d7500…. Kindly advise which is good and better for long keep for future use in all aspects.. Please advise…. Regards Vicky
Dear Vicki, there is no easy advice here. I lobe D5x00 series for small size and yet good image quality. If you need great AF performance (shooting action, low light), go for D7500. V.
Apparently the lens update expands cameras it will work on. It works fine on my D800 and allows manual focus and manual focus override in the body autofocus mode. Marvelous, inexpensive lens.
I have a Tokina 11-16mm with all the markings on the lens barrel and a constant f/2.8 max. aperture and the very “useful sleeping eight”. If the sky is sexy I move to manual focus: to infinity, Spot metering, f/8 and Aperture priority meter for the sky and use it as a point and shoot. Looks like this can’t be done with this Nikon 10-20mm. Removing lens barrel markings in some recent lenses is making life difficult for us amateurs. :))
Has anyone tried it for astrophotography like Milkyway photography. If so pls share the results
I got this lens and the FTZ adapter to use with a Z50 … works great! A little bulkier than it might be if it was native, but actually it gives you a nice lumpy “barrel” to hang onto. Optically there’s just nothing to complain about … a little slow for indoor natural light, but as they say, if you are not getting good results, it’s not the camera.
Right after I bought the new Nikon Z 50 and kit lens Iand I bought this lens (10-30 DX P VR) and 70-300 DX P VR used.. Both lenses work perfectly with the FTZ adapter, and round out that camera as a walkabout kit perfectly. Between all 3 lenses I have pretty much everything I need.
Coming from my Nikon Z7 and 14-30 Z mount and older 70-200 f:4, I find the 10-30 DX okay iin image quality in comparison, but the 70-300 DX has excellent image quality, not quite as good as the older F mount at f:4, but pretty much equal if I use the 1.4 Teleconverter with that lens.
Just my $.02
Thanks for your remarks, I pretty much agree. As for the 10-30mm AF-P you mention: I guess you mean 10-20mm AF-P DX lens, right?
Never compare Full frame with the APSC with a wide angle, Full frame wins hands down and in the ease of getting great results and dynamic range. One can’t escape all that shadow noise and loss of detail in an APSC even at base ISO. Compared to my Tokina 11-16mm on Z50, I find Nikon D610 with my Tamron 15-30mm gives stellar results. I literally am relearning to use the Tokina 11-16mm with Z50. Also the processing in LR is totally opposite of what you do for a full frame wide angle, personally. I’m an amateur and shoot only RAW.
Hi Va’clav.which lenses is better optically?
Nikon 10-20 Vs Afp 18-55.
Hi, I would say they are on par, the 10-20mm has a bit weak spot at 18-20mm (with 20mm in particular). I do not remember 18-55mm AF-P version of having a really much softer focal lenghts (compared to other focal lenghts of the same lens). I hope this helps. Vaclav
Dear Vaclav,
One of your conclusions is that the Tokina 11-16mm is overall a better performer.
Looking to the examples, I cannot see this or confirm it.
At 14mm the edge sharpness of Tokina lens is really bad, look at
the f/ 5.6 example. At 18mm, with the 3 lenses next to each other, I think you enlarged it somewhat to match it,
it is almost a double exposure at f/5.6 for the Tokina. (You mentioned it outer edge but it is a center crop).
Examples mixed up?
Hope to hear from you.
Tnx
good review!
for info it works very well on d800 in 1.2x crop mode from 12-20mm – and distorsion correction works too😊
Very good review. I also just purchased this lens and are experimenting with
some timelaps clips. So far it looks promising.
Dear sir
I am using d3200 Nikon camera at present
I am planning to upgrade my camera
Looking between d5600 , d7200 and d7500….
Kindly advise which is good and better for long keep for future use in all aspects..
Please advise….
Regards
Vicky
Dear Vicki, there is no easy advice here. I lobe D5x00 series for small size and yet good image quality. If you need great AF performance (shooting action, low light), go for D7500. V.