As part of my field work for my upcoming hands-on review of the 1 Nikon CX 70-300 f/4.5-5.6 telephoto zoom lens I went to the Niagara Butterfly Conservatory to take a few images. I spent a few very enjoyable hours at the conservatory taking photos of the various butterfly species and ended up with many usable images.
I was intrigued to see how well my Vello Extension Tubes for Nikon 1 would work with the CX 70-300, so I popped the 10mm and 16mm tubes in my pocket. For those of you that have read the product review that I did on those extension tubes, you’ll remember that I used the 1 Nikon 30-110mm f/3.8-5.6 to take all the images in the review.
I took a few “standard” butterfly images and found that the 1 Nikon CX 70-300 was very easy to use and focused quickly and accurately. The minimum focusing distance of the lens is between 3.3 feet (1m) and 5.2 feet (1.6m). The aisles in the butterfly conservatory can be quite narrow so the relatively short minimum focusing distance of the 1 Nikon CX 70-300 was extremely helpful.
After taking the said few “standard” images, I decided to push my Nikon 1 V2 with the CX 70-300 to see what it could do with the Vello extension tubes attached. I combined the 10mm and 16mm tubes for maximum effect and assembled everything.
I must admit that the set-up felt very loose and wobbly but all of the electrical connections worked flawlessly and I didn’t have any focusing or exposure issues at all. I would recommend giving this assembly good support while shooting and in-between shots.
Those of you that have used extension tubes in the past will know that they do not affect lens sharpness at all since they do not have any glass elements. However, there is some loss of light depending on how much extension is used. I did a bit of testing to answer a reader’s question to my Vello review and I estimate that when the Vello tubes are combined, there is a 2 stop loss of light. This caused an interesting challenge at the butterfly conservatory since it was a partially overcast day and the lighting in the building varies from mainly shade to small areas of sunlight. As a result, I had to shoot all of the images for this article between ISO 1600 and ISO 6400.
All of the images were taken hand-held in available light, and none of them have been cropped at all. Each is the original full frame capture. I felt it was important to show readers how close a photographer can get to their subject when using the 1 Nikon CX 70-300 lens coupled with the 10mm and 16mm Vello extension tubes. You’ll notice that some of the images were taken at fairly slow shutter speeds, a testament to how well the VR works on this lens.
I used my standard post-processing workflow for all of the images in this article. RAW processing was done in DxO OpticsPro 9 using PRIME noise reduction, then a DNG file is exported into CS6 for some minor adjustments, then into Nik Suite for some final tweaks if needed.
Based on the results of this particular test with the 1 Nikon CX 70-300 lens on my Nikon 1 V2, I would not hesitate at all to shoot this lens up to ISO 6400 when using the Vello extension tubes.
Article and all images Copyright 2014, Thomas Stirr. All rights reserved. No use, reproduction or duplication including electronic is allowed without written consent.
Thomas – before I come across your articles I rarely did hear about Dx0 Optics Pro – I was getting ready to make a switch from Lightroom to Capture One but because of your posts I did download Dx0 Optics Pro 10 demo to play with (since they do have D750 RAW support now) – wow – let me tell you – so far I am loving it – the noise reduction is so amazing among other things – and the took is intuitive enough to make a learning curve easier – I just wish the geometry adjustments were a bit more refined (but perhaps this is due to my lack of knowledge). I have 2 questions: 1. do you find yourself doing final edits in Photoshop or is Dx0 enough? (I would love to just get rid of Adobe products) and 2. Do you know a site with good tutorials (advanced stuff – sharpening, dust off, advanced geometry corrections etc)
Thanks in advance
Jack
Hi Jack,
If you go on the DxO website you should be able to find a series of online tutorials that should guide you through all of the various settings. Depending on your needs you may be able to do all of your processing with DxO OpticsPro…unless you need to make any spot adjustments since this is not possible in OpticsPro. Right now I export a DNG file into CS6 and I make 2 or 3 small adjustments…then into Nik Suite for another tweak or two. So my use of CS6 is quite minimal. There are some adjustments in Nik Suite that I quite like and I haven’t been able to find anything in OpticsPro that would replace them.
I am still learning all of the capability in OpticsPro so I’m not sure if I will be able to completely eliminate CS6. I am fairly close now. I do use Nik Suite and Topaz which are both plug-ins for CS6 so I may simply use CS6 as a bridge to get to those plugins.
I agree that the PRIME noise reduction in OpticsPro 9 and 10 is wonderful. I also like the lens softness adjustment in OpticsPro 9 (it is likely in 10 as well). Since my V2 currently does not have RAW support in OpticsPro 10 I decided not to upgrade yet.
Tom
Lens softness, prime noise reduction are amazing. I wish Dx0 would have a color replace like Capture One Pro has. Regardless which one I will chose I know I am done with Lightroom – Thanks a bunch for indirectly introducing me to Dx0 (and adding one more option to make me confused even more :)) lol
Have a great evening Thomas
Hi Jack,
Sometimes I am my own ‘master of confusion’… :-)
My plan is to just keep working with OpticsPro as my main processing program and learn it as well as I can. I don’t often do spot adjustments anyway but having CS6 for occasional use makes sense for me.
I had a long talk with the head trainer at DxO while at a photographers’ event in Toronto last fall. He told me that spot adjustments is one feature that the software engineers are looking at for future versions of OpticsPro.
Tom
Thanks Thomas,
Do you know if Dx0 has a color replacement option (similar to the Capture One color wheel). I have been using PS since the version 4 (old version 4 not CS 4) but I always had issues with Lightroom. I never tried Nik Suite nor Topaz so I will have to look into those.
Once again, thank you for all the replies – big help.
Jack
HI Jack,
I have not discovered anything like that in OpticsPro thus far.
Tom
Hi Jack,
Here is the link to OpticsPro tutorials:
www.dxo.com/us/ph…/tutorials
Tom
Hi Thomas – every time I have to carry my D750 with Tamron 150-600 (than my old D300 and 70-200 with tc) I am beginning to see the beauty of the setup such as this one. I know that it will not replace the “big boys” for higher paying on location sessions, but for “family on vacation” or “I want to show of my trick portfolio” (snow sports) it sounds like a great setup. How is the speed and accuracy of AF when compared to FX cameras? (I know you have experience with Tamron 150-600). I know next season I will have a secondary CX setup…
Hi Jack,
Under good light conditions the AF on the CX 70-300 is fast and accurate, especially for static subjects. Birds in flight and other moving subjects can still be captured with the CX set-up but it takes a bit more patience and pre-planning. I am quite used to shooting with my D800/Tamron 150-600 and when I spot a fast-breaking moving subject I can get the camera up to my eye and get the shot framed with my D800 in an instant and grab it with the Tamron AF with very little trouble. That is not the case with my V2/CX70-300 set-up..it just isn’t as quick or easy with a mirror-less camera. There is a lag between the screen on the back of the camera and the EVF, which if you’re not careful will cause you to miss shots.
When I’m out with my V2/CX 70-300 combo I always try and keep my thumb over the sensor near the EVF so I can keep the image in the EVF and off the rear of the camera. This makes it much easier to bring the camera up to my eye and quickly frame an image. The EVF may be better (i.e. more detailed and brighter) with the V3 (I haven’t shot with it personally so I can’t comment on it specifically) but there is a huge difference between looking through the viewfinder on my D800 and my V2…the D800 obviously being much brighter and clearer than the V2.
In good light the AF-C 15fps or 20fps (varies by Nkon 1 model) is a really amazing feature and you can capture some very unique images with it. I’ve also done some AF-S at the highest frame rates of 30fps and 60fps and that can also be quite incredible if you use it with the right kinds of subjects. Only the first frame is focused at 30fps or 60fps but it you’re trying to capture a bird landing at its nest or at the end of the dock the resulting image stream captures can be spectacular.
If you’re going to shoot mainly static subjects, or moving subjects in good light the CX 70-300 will do a very good job for you. The AF is slower under low contrast situations and when shooting in poor light. No camera/lens is perfect that this is one of the biggest trade-offs for the lightweight and wonderful handling of the CX 70-300.
Tom
Thanks for reply Thomas. For me Nikon 1 would be used for the predictable action on the mountain (predictable as non pro skiers boarders) For the pro-semi pro I would still log my big setup but money is worth it (which is not the case for the families, amateur skiers/boarders). Descending on even a double black (Ex or back country terrain usually means well paid gig) with an extra 10lb in gear (bag/harness included) is a pain and the setup takes a bit more time too (getting the stuff out of the bag). I may rent something this season just to test it out. Thanks a bunch for your input :)
You’re welcome Jack!
Tom
Hi Thom,
Great images. You’ve convinced me to buy the CX 70-300mm for Nikon 1. I will start saving money for that. I’m a great fan of Nikon 1 and its 2.7x crop factor which is its great strength. I’m currently using Nikon 1 V2, FT1 adapter, and 70-200 f/2.8 VR II lens and getting 540mm effective focal length. Quite happy with that. I believe CX 70-300mm will give me even better results. Here are some sample images with this combo. I’m just an amateur and the image quality works for me.
www.flickr.com/photo…805380798/
Hi Tareq,
I’m glad you liked the images! The more I shoot with the 1 Nikon 70-300 the more I like it. Obviously no lens is perfect but this one certainly does a lot of things very well.
Tom
Hi Tareq,
You have a lot of very nice images there! I really like the one of the hawk just leaving the branch to take flight…really nice capture on that one especially. Lots of great dragonfly images…they appear nice and sharp…great job!
Tom
Hi Tom,
I’m glad you liked those images. Thanks for your nice comment. After reviewing all these posts, I was wondering whether should I buy the Sigma 150–600mm sports for my Nikon D800E or cx 70-300mm for my V2? Both have advantages and disadvantages. Seems like I’m leaning towards Sigma.
Tareq
Hi Tareq,
Based on the images I saw on your link I’m sure you’ll create great images with either lens.
Tom
Hi Thom. Just a question about zooms and extension tubes, which focal lenght you select for close up?. I made this question because my little experience with old AIs zooms and PK and PN rings was bad, it was quite difficult to determine M ratio, and actually when I need macro I use primes or macro lenses.
I will like to have your comments on how easy or difficult was for you using this newly designed zoom lenses, or if you made compromises. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Nestor,
I have only used extension tubes with my Nikon 1 V2 and two 1 Nikon lenses: the 30-110 f3.8-5.6 zoom and the 70-300 f/4.5-5.6 zoom. For the images in this article I used a wide range of focal lengths from an equivalent-field-of-view of 405mm all the way up to 810mm. The focal length selected had more to do with how much physical room I had in the venue (some areas are quite cramped), how I wanted to frame the subject, and how close I needed to get to the butterfly to get my desired shot.
Although I have a good macro lens (Nikkor 105 Micro f/2.8) after using these extension tubes with my Nikon 1 V2 I doubt that I will use my macro lens very much in the future. I found it much quicker and far more enjoyable to use my Nikon 1 V2 with the extension tubes fitted on a zoom lens, especially the 70-300. On a comparative basis my D800 feels heavy and awkward with the Nikkor 105mm Micro f/2.8 attached. Plus, it just doesn’t give me the kind of shooting flexibility that I like.
My shooting style is likely very different than your’s. I am much more of an experimental shooter and I try all kinds of approaches ‘on the fly’ and I tend to frame my images very quickly. I have a clear idea of the image I’m trying to create in my mind and I’ll change focal lengths, physical position etc. very rapidly to get a range of different images. That makes me quite prolific when I shoot. For example, to capture the images I needed for this article I was at the butterfly conservatory for about 3.5 hours and took over 500 individual images. Yeah….I did work up a sweat!
Tom
Hi thom, thanks for replying, perhaps as english is not my mother tongue I miss the point. I am not so technically minded for macro, I found primes and macro lenses predecibles for macro work, I mean the closer the bigger, the larger focal lenght, the larger image. I try to tell you that with macros and primes focal lenghts and extension tubes performs like the books says. In the othe hand my little experience with an old AIs 80-200 f/4 was not good, and I don’t mean bad pictures, I mean bad handling, not knowing if I need to zoom in or out, not knowing if I need to get closer or not. What I found was a non practical way of using the lens as a macro unless I do not have another lens handy. As I read your article it seems things changed quite a lot and it seems too that you feel comfortable with the zooms lens and extension rings combo. I do not have either new extension rings nor AFD telephoto zooms to get my own conclusions. What I was trying to ask you is: Do you feel the combo quite workable or because it took quite a long of time to get the right frame you loose pictures? If you consider it is handy I would try to get a vello extension tube for my 30 110 to have macro capabilities without adding so much weight and room.
Hi Nestor,
This combination is VERY easy to use. I had far more flexibility with this set up than if I would have been trying to use my D800 with my Nikkor 105mm Micro f/2.8. A few times I needed to use the focusing ring on the lens to get the focusing close enough for the AF to work quickly, but that was about the only minor issue.
Tom
Sorry, I’m posting comments without finish to read your article. Now I finished. Well, that “raw” processing with noise reduction in DxO is amazing; you showed photos done with a 6400 ISO and they look absolutely clean. I don’t believe in the full automatic corrections of DxO, but I would like to use that software to open my raw photos and be free of noise. One question: Once I open my raw photo in DxO, and I transfer it to Lightroom as a tiff file, am I going to loose the possibility of recovering my shadows and highlights ?
Hi Jorge,
I export a DNG file into CS6 (you could export that into LR) and it opens up giving you all of your normal adjustments.
Tom
Also I must said that the photos that you took at ISO 1600 are completely free of noise. I think that you achieved that with your post-processing.
Hi Jorge,
Yes, all of the images in this article were processed with OpticsPro 9 and I used the PRIME noise reduction function.
Tom
Dear Thomas, your photos are very much more than “usable”, they are great.
My mother told me about some sort of filters that are attached to the lens to do macro photos. Are the extension tubes better, and how are the last beside the macro lenses? Best regards.
Hi Jorge,
Thanks for the positive words! I haven’t tried any close up filters with the Nikon 1 V2 and the various lenses I own so I can’t comment from any experience base…sorry. :-(
Tom
Okay, how did you get those little buggers to pose long enough to shoot them? Drugs? their eyes seem completely dilated.
Hi Michael,
I provided quite a bit of detail in my reply 43) to Anthony’s posting 42). Basically, some of the larger butterflies would perch for 15 seconds or longer which made framing quite easy. The other, more active butterflies took some pre-planning and patience to get a 2-3 second opportunity for a single frame capture.
Tom
What a great set–beautiful, and in many cases so atypical of images of the same subject.
Hi Shawn,
Thanks for the positive comment! Shooting with extension tubes does help see the world a bit differently :-)
Tom
Thomas,
You did great things with that tiny little camera,I just love those shots.
Hi Okwy,
:-) glad you enjoyed them!
Tom