During a recent trip to the Myrtle Beach area of South Carolina I took the opportunity to try something new, and captured a number of images of brown pelicans. Although I’ve seen these birds a number of times in the past I never tried photographing them before, and as with any bird species there was a learning curve involved.
The Myrtle Beach area, or the Grand Strand as it is often called, has a few places that are conveniently located to photograph these large birds which frequent the coastal waters.
We rented a house in Garden City Beach which is south of Myrtle Beach and quite close to Murrells Inlet as well as to Huntington Beach State Park. In addition, within about a half mile walk (1 km) there is an ocean pier that protrudes several hundred feet out over the water. I found all three of these locations were good spots to photograph the local brown pelican population.
I initially tried a few shots from the water’s edge along the ocean beach and quickly abandoned this vantage point. The birds that were gliding just above the surface of the water were simply too far away to get any decent images, even with my Nikon D800/Tamron 150-600 VC combination. Plus, the birds flying overhead were either up too high or only offered unattractive belly shots as they flew past.
During the early part of our trip we headed off to Huntington Beach State Park one afternoon and I spent a few hours attempting to get some bird-in-flight images. Unfortunately the rather brisk weather conditions and the relatively small number of birds cut our visit short.
I was able to capture a few images of a brown pelican as it lifted off from the marsh water and flew past us for a few seconds. As is often the case when photographing birds a few seconds may be all the opportunity you get to capture some photographs. Luckily the AF-C on my Nikon D800 worked flawlessly and the Tamron 150-600 nailed focus on every one of the nine individual images I was able to capture during that brief fly-by. Throughout my week long stay I found that the auto-focus performance of the Tamron 150-600 VC on my D800 was rock solid.
A few days later I went out on the Garden City Beach pier to try my luck at that location. As is often the case, I usually seemed to be at the wrong end of the pier when brown pelicans flew past. After going back and forth on the pier I settled on being out at the very end of it. Being up high was a much better vantage point and on occasion the pelicans were reasonably close and at the right height, to get some useable images. We had some overcast conditions which were handled well by the D800/Tamron 150-600 combo.
Although I always shoot hand-held, other photographers may prefer to use a monopod or tripod with a gimbal head when using a long telephoto lens. Since the vast majority of pelicans flew downwind it made them faster to spot on their approach, and I would imagine this would also make tripod or monopod shooting easier.
Towards the end of my stay I got up early on two consecutive mornings and headed off to the boardwalk/pier area of Murrells Inlet. I found that this was by far the best location in terms of the number of opportunities to capture images of brown pelicans in flight.
Although wild, many of the birds are reasonably comfortable being around people which afforded some images of them perching. These types of images are best captured in late afternoon at various spots along the boardwalk at Murrells Inlet.
The best vantage point to capture pelicans in flight was at the end of the pier in Murrells Inlet. The challenge was that I had to constantly scan 360-degrees from that position as the pelicans approached from a wide range of angles. A few times I was able to set up my shots for a few seconds in advance as a bird approached from the distance. More often than not I found myself catching a glimpse of a moving bird from the corner of my eye and I had to wheel around quickly to grab a shot or two. I certainly appreciated the fast and accurate AF-C performance of the D800/Tamron combo.
Since I had the Tamron 150-600 VC fully extended most of the time this caused some occasional image clipping when the pelicans were in tight to me and I didn’t have time to adjust my focal length. This doesn’t bother me personally but I appreciate that many photographers would rather avoid this kind of image capture. If this is your preference then it would be advisable to keep your telephoto zoom set to 400mm or so, then adjust your focal length and zoom out as required.
The variety of angles at which the birds flew past coupled with the strong, rising sun did make it interesting from a lighting standpoint causing a range of conditions from very bright highlights on wings, to backlighting, water glare, and full side lighting depending on the flight angle of individual pelicans.
I shot in AF-C using 9-point AF on my D800. I used a range of apertures with my Tamron 150-600 VC from f/5.6 to f/11 with the majority of images taken at f/8. The Tamron 150-600 is a bit soft at f/5.6 when fully extended so shooting at f/8 does help image sharpness.
I seldom use burst shooting when capturing images of birds in flight. Since pelicans have such slow, strong wing movements it was possible to time individual images in order to capture a variety of wing positions, and thus avoid filling up card space with bursts.
On my final day I arrived at the Murrells Inlet pier at 7:30 am and was greeted with temperatures just a bit above freezing and very strong winds coming in off the ocean. Within 15 minutes I felt like a human Popsicle. Although I almost left a couple of times because I was so cold I persevered until my target departure time of 11 am. During this period I noticed that the pelicans began gathering on the shoreline of the inlet in an area immediately north of the end of the pier. As individual birds approached and left this gathering spot, various flying and gliding shots could be captured. At its peak this congregation of brown pelicans numbered a couple of dozen. By 11 am this had dwindled down to 3 or 4 with most of the birds heading out towards the ocean shoreline, likely to fish.
Mother Nature smiled down on me just a couple of minutes before my planned departure time of 11 am. A beautiful brown pelican approached, flying parallel to the pier and coming straight towards me. It veered off just as it approached me and I was able to capture the image below, almost dead centre in the frame at a distance of about 65 feet (20m) at as focal length of 400mm. It was a great end to a very cold, but rewarding morning.
Technical Note: All photographs were taken hand-held with a Nikon D800 and Tamron 150-600 VC lens. All images were produced from RAW files. Each was processed through DxO OpticsPro 10, a DNG file was then exported into CS6 and Nik Suite for additional adjustments as required.
Article, all images and YouTube video are all Copyright Thomas Stirr. No use, duplication or adaptation is allowed without written permission.
Hi Mr Stirr,
When you were there, did you try shooting late afternoon? Or you always shooting early morning?
I`ll try some places that you mentioned in this blog and also at Myrtle Beach State Park pier.
Regards
Hi Tom,
Gorgeous pictures. I am still practicing my handheld technique with the 150-600 and my D800 using your previous advice.
I’m curious about one detail of your shooting setup. With AF-C do you happen to recall which priority selection (setting a1) you used – release, release + focus, or focus?
I tend to use release + focus, with the camera on continuous high in case I want a burst. I’ve seen some people argue for Release but that seems to almost guarantee out-of-focus results.
Thanks, Pete
It is a personal choice but I would suggest you not use this setting: If you choose Release + Focus the shutter will fire but the frame rate will slow anytime the area covered by the active focus point is not in focus. When using AF-C and just ‘release’ mode the camera can still re-focus while you are firing the shutter.
Hi Monte,
Interesting point, yes. I used Release initially and found I was having too many out-of-focus images with AF-C, obviously when shooting moving objects such as birds and deer. (Or, perhaps I should say not enough in-focus images.) Do you find this, or do you find that the camera achieves focus? Perhaps I should give Release another try… Thanks, Pete
I don’t want any hesitation when the camera hunts for perfect focus. I get a few out of focus frames but probably only 10%. I shoot short bursts of 3-4 frames at a time while always holding down the AF-On button with the back button focusing method while tracking the bird. If I lose focus I will quickly toggle the AF-On button to reacquire.
When the wing position usually what makes or breaks an image I don’t take the chance that the camera will hesitate even a fraction of a second while attempting to get perfect focus.
I use the same set up. It’s not film and yes, when shooting bursts, there will be some out of focus frames. However, the chances of getting more in focus frames are better in burst photography. The more practice with this set up the more in focus frames you will acquire without any hesitation from the camera.
Hi Pete,
Thanks for the positive comment – much appreciated. I use the ‘focus’ setting. I almost always shoot my D800 in single frames only and seldom use Ch as the frame rate with my D800 is fairly slow.
If I’m trying to capture critical wing positions with flying birds I’ll use my Nikon 1 V2 instead of my D800 and shoot in AF-C at 15fps. For birds landing at a nest or on a specific part of a dock I’ll use my V2 and shoot AF-c at either 30fps or 60fps.
Tom
How many keepers do you get without AF tracking using these electronic high fps modes?
Hi Monte,
The V2 has AF-C with tracking at 15fps. With the higher fps only the first frame is focused, then the rest are based on the first so it’s important to use it only under very specific situations where you know the focusing point will basically be static…for example with a large bird landing on a nest, or fluttering over one spot as it is landing. When I use it correctly I can get most of the frames useable. Of course if I pick the wrong type of scene I can get almost nothing after the first frame. Deciding on when to use 15fps vs 30 or 60 is an important choice. Most of the time I find 15fps is more than sufficient for me to get what I need.
Tom
Hi Mr Stirr,
With the large birds like that, how many focus points do you use for accurate tracking focus? Thanks.
Tom mentioned that he shot using AF-C using 9-point Auto Focus. Pete
Ah ok, Thanks for your advise.
I also know he uses center AF point.
Hi Mr Stirr,
My usual post-processing is in the following order, DxO Optic Pro Elite 10 + Photoshop Elements 12 with Nik/Google software plug-in suite. Do you think is there the good approach for getting the best sharpness and contrast from the Tamron shots. Can I save “few” bucks by getting Tamron in lieu of Sigma? Many thanks.
Hi hoan,
Your post-processing order matches the one that I employ, other than I use CS6 rather than Photoshop Elements.
Tom
Tom and Hoan, how much difference is there between CS6 and Elements 13? What will one do that the other won’t?
PSE does not support 16 bit files for one. Basically it has many similar features but each tool has less capacity. It is more simply put a dumbed down version of PS. It is all many people will ever require for image editing.
Monte, I have to say I’m not a fan of the idea of the “cloud” feature of PSCC. I’ve heard that storing files in the cloud would disappear if one stops using the service. I know i can get a copy of PS6 and it will support the D750 and D810 but what would happen when the next Iteration comes out and PS6 will not longer support those? I use LightRoom and have just purchased DXO10 Elite but I also know it does’t do everything PS will do. What do you recommend for a computer illiterate person like me?
To be honest I only use CS5 on rare occasions, I use Lightroom for 90% of my image editing. If you want to use the image altering filters like Nik or Topaz then you should get a copy of PS.
I am not a fan of the CC way of doing things either but not for fear of losing files, but for the unwanted lifetime mortgage on the program. You will always have your files if that is what you are concerned about. You may not have a way to open any PSD files but that is an Adobe licensed format and if you do not own or rent the program then I suppose it is fair that you cannot use those files. Just keep originals and save edited to 16 bit TIFF and you should be good.
Thanks for that advice Monte. I certainly don’t mind spending the money for PS6, even if I don’t use all of its features.
Hi Mike. Personnaly, I always use PSE many years ago. PSE coupled with NIK software suite, that’s only enough for me doing post-processing. Like I said above, my first “attack” is DxO Optics Pro Elite. For me, DxO does 60% of the job. The rest, 40% will be completed by NIK suite (as PSE’s plug in). PS CS xxx is too big for my post-processing needs.
I still at PSE 12. Not yet PSE 13. The NIK suite is already amazing tools. I do not need to upgrade PSE’s version.
Hoan, I need 16 bit capability so Elements won’t work for me. As Monte points out. I just bought DXO Pro Elite 10 and want to get the NIK Suite. Most of my work is processed in LIghtRoom and that has been good for me but there are things I want to do that LightRoom is not sufficient.
About autofocus speed. Tom, do you think this Tamron autofocus speed is fast enough for catching youth soccer or football action? Thanks.
Hi hoan,
I think as long as you use AF-C with 9-point AF on a current body you should be well served by this lens. I did find that AF lagged when using older bodies so the body you choose to match up with this lens will have an impact.
Tom
I plan using this lens with my D610 or an older one D700.
Hi hoan,
I wouldn’t think you’d have any AF issues with the D610….I’m not sure about the D700 though. Best thing would be to test out the two bodies with the lens to be sure.
Tom
Happy Easter Mr. Stirr,
For birds in flight and using super telephoto lens like this Tamron, do you use the hyperfocale technic? Or you let the camera autofocus system does the job? What is the better technic between these two?
Best regards
Hi hoan,
I let the camera AF do its job. I would seldom shoot landscapes with this type of lens. Sometimes when I shoot landscapes I will use single point AF and estimate a good focus point to achieve the best depth-of-field I can in an image. When using my D800 I never shoot above f/11 so I can avoid the effects of diffraction.
Tom
Superb work! The Tamron surely offers real bang for the buck. I will be moving to a DSLR soon, mostly the D7200, after spending much time with point-n-shoot superzooms. While I will take some time getting familiar with the DSLR, this lens surely seems like something to put on the list of buy-it-ASAP!! :-)
Hi Kalpak,
Thanks for the positive comment – much appreciated! I agree with you that the Tamron 150-600 does offer excellent value for the money. If you shoot this lens with a D7200 I think you should be very happy with the results.
Tom
The D7200 is in my possession! This camera rocks!!
Soon, the Tamron 150-600 will be as well! :-)
Hi Kalpak,
No doubt you will have many years of enjoyment using it!
Tom
Lovely shots Tom, always great to see your latest. Good to know that despite all the excitement over the D810 and Sigma 150-600, the originals still produce excellent results in the right hands.
Hi Lauchlan,
I’m glad you enjoyed the images – and thank you for your positive comment – much appreciated.
Tom
Hi again Mr Stirr,
South Carolina is my summer vacation playground. But my favorite place over there is
in Low Country region, specially Hunting Island State Park (Beaufort/St-Helena
Island). Give this park a try. You`re very close touch with the pelicans,
deers, dolphins and some bonus….alligators. All of these beautiful animals at
the same place. Bring a lot of memery cards. With your super Tamron, I`m sure
you`ll bring home a tons of memorable shots
I do not own yet the super long telephoto. Here are some of my shots over there
with the normal common zoom lens
www.flickr.com/photo…4632668111
www.flickr.com/photo…4632668111
www.flickr.com/photo…4632668111
Hoping one day to own one of these super zoom lenses and learn how to use them from you.
Hi Hoan,
Great shots…thanks for sharing! Also, thanks for the tip about Hunting Island State Park…I will need to investigate this more.
Tom
Hi Mr Stirr, always educative and informative your reviews and articles. Your reviews and technical papers are my daily reading as well as your youtube channel. I ‘m in the processus to decide what to get between this Tamron and the Sigma one. Regardless the price, frankly, per your experience the Sigma 150-600 is really better than Tamron, a really wow-factor? Or I waste my $$ with the Sigma? Many thanks.
Hello hoan,
It is very heartening to read that you’ve been enjoying my articles and the videos on my YouTube channel…thanks very much for the positive feedback!
As far as the Sigma Sport and the Tamron there are a number of differences. I think the Sigma is a bit sharper when shot wide open. Is it a huge difference? To my eye, no, but it is noticeable. The difference is less noticeable when the lenses are stopped down to f/8. At any rate I think much of the difference can be made up in post with good processing. The Sigma feels much better built and may have more weather sealing. So, if you’re out in the elements a lot or are a bit rough with your gear the Sigma is likely going to be a bit tougher of a lens.
Another factor is the weight and how that fits with your shooting style. I found the Sigma too heavy but that’s because I never use a tripod or monopod so that was an issue for me. If you use a monopod or tripod and don’t hand-hold for long periods of time the Sigma’s weight may not be a factor for you.
Choosing a lens is a very personal choice and a number of factors need to be considered. On a personal basis I wouldn’t buy the Sigma as it is too heavy for my shooting style and I didn’t see sufficient difference in image quality to justify the additional cost. Keep in mind that I’m not a professional wildlife photographer who makes his income from owning a long telephoto zoom.
Tom
Tom and Hoan, one additional point I would make in favor of the Sigma is the Sigma Dock attachment which will allow for easy firmware updates and perhaps focus tweaking of the lens itself. As Tom mentions, he is not a professional wildlife photographer and doesn’t make most of his living in that field. Neither do I. As far as the Sigma being better built and weather sealed I can say I am not hard on my specialty lenses and a Lens Coat, or quality rain coat would take care of the element and cost much less than the extra money for not much more with the Sigma 150-600 over the Tamron. I certainly would have to use a tripod with full gimbal with the Sigma but could hand hold the Tamron if necessary, however, would most likely at least be using a monopod with the Tamron anyway.
Hi Mike,
Great point about the Sigma docking station being able to handle future firmware updates.
Tom
Yes, but I’m thinking it is the only advantage since neither you nor I do this kind of photography as a business. Having handled the Tamron just against the Sigma 50-500, I realize the weight difference is a “difference” and would most likely make it much easier to shoot without the use of tripod or monopod.
Hi Mike,
The actual weights of the Sigma 50-500 and the Tamron 150-600 are virtually identical at 4.33 and 4.3 pounds. If the Sigma feels heavier than the Tamron 150-600 than I suspect it is caused by how the weight is distributed in each lens.
Tom
Perhaps the difference I felt was the D750. The Sigma just seemed heavier to me. Although it also felt denser, perhaps due to the compactness compared to the Tamron.
Hi Mike,
This thread brings up an interesting issue about how a lens actually feels in the hand when being used and how important that is to a user. Overall weight and balance are equally important as they both affect comfort and handling.
Tom