Nikon D7000 Review Follow-up

This is a follow-up to my Nikon D7000 Review that I posted earlier this year. Ever since I published the review, I have been getting a ton of feedback on this camera. While most of the feedback is great, some photographers complain about focusing and other issues on the D7000. Some end up returning the camera back to Nikon, while others send it to Nikon for repair. I have been carefully tracking most of the complaints and I have some interesting data to share. Since February of this year, I have tried 4 different copies of D7000 and the last one I tested was with me for two straight months.

Nikon D7000 (1)

NIKON D7000 + 10.5mm f/2.8 @ 10.5mm, ISO 100, 1/160, f/8.0

Before I talk about my discoveries, let me tell you what I think about the camera. Nikon D7000 is a phenomenal camera. It is the best DX camera Nikon has produced to date. I was convinced of this when I first tested the camera and got reassured after my two month love affair with it (with the approval of my wife, of course). I have used a number of lenses from Nikon, Sigma and Samyang and all of them worked as expected on the D7000. A couple of lenses had focus issues and had to be adjusted using AF Fine Tune, but other than that, I did not see any front/back focus issues on the camera itself.

Now let me share some interesting statistics that I have been keeping a track of in an Excel spreadsheet. Ever since I published my review, I have been tracking all comments and emails from D7000 owners. It has been taking a lot of my time and I am happy to report that the project is now over. The idea was to see how many people reported a problem with their D7000 and track what the problem was related to. I was convinced that the reported backfocus problem was a user or lens issue after testing a second D7000 body, but I did not want to make a loud statement without supporting data. So I gathered data for over 6 months. Hundreds of comments and emails, along with images of test charts, doorknobs, strings, dogs, people, cars and other weird stuff that I had to sort through. It was painful to say the least. Without further due, let me share the statistics with you.

Reported Nikon D7000 problems

Problem Description# of Complaints% of Total
User Error2969.0%
Lens Focus Issue819.0%
Camera Issue37.2%
Unknown / Returned24.8%
Total Complaints42100%

Out of a total of 42 complaints, the majority of them (69%) were related to a user problem – from lack of basic photography knowledge to camera-specific functions. Confirmed back-focus/front-focus issues totaled 19% and each case was related to a lens problem, with the majority of issues falling on entry-level/kit/superzoom lenses like Nikon 18-55mm, Nikon 18-105mm and Nikon 18-200mm. Out of all the complaints, I could only confirm 3 to be truly related to the Nikon D7000. Two of the cases had focus issues and had to be sent to Nikon for re-calibration and one had a problem with grease/oil ending up on the camera sensor.

I know that 42 is not a big sample, but please bear in mind that these are actual complaints. I lost track of all the happy D7000 owners, because the number is in hundreds and I am only talking about the ones that sent me feedback via email and comments. If I were to plug in all of the feedback I got from all D7000 owners, the above numbers would have been insignificant in comparison. Based on my research and the above information I can conclude that:

  1. Reported problems are not specific to the D7000. In many cases it is a user issue or a lens issue.
  2. Very few D7000 units actually have a manufacturing defect. The number is very small and in my opinion very acceptable under QA norms.
  3. D7000 is not a point and shoot camera like many are expecting it to be.
  4. D7000’s high resolution 16MP sensor is indeed more demanding than 6-10MP sensors when it comes to lenses.
  5. Nikon service centers are very good in addressing camera/lens issues, especially related to AF.

Now this does not mean that D7000 is a flawless camera. I do have one complaint on the D7000, and it is related to its new RGB metering sensor that just does not seem to deliver consistently good results in matrix metering mode, in some situations. I have written about it in my Nikon D7000 Review before and I wanted to add a few more notes about it. When shooting subjects in very similar lighting conditions, I seem to get slight overexposure/underexposure, even when shooting the same subject. Quite literally, I might shoot two images 1-2 seconds apart of the same subject and get one good image and one slightly under or overexposed image. And no, I do not have bracketing turned on! This does not seem to happen when photographing wildlife and nature as much, but seems to happen only when photographing people. Older-generation Nikon DSLRs like D90 and D300s do not seem to have the same problem. The good news is that this exposure issue is not severe and you can either fix it later in post-processing, or you can use the exposure compensation button to take care of the problem. Dialing +0.7 or -.0.7 EV in those situations took care of the problem.

Other than that, I love the Nikon D7000. It is an amazing, highly capable camera that makes all other DX cameras look old in comparison. While it might not have the AF speed or the build of the D300s, it has many strengths that make it the best DX camera produced to date by Nikon. It is currently Nikon’s best selling DSLR for a reason…

The only bad news is that with all the troubles that Nikon suffered from this year, D7000 is hard to find in stock. B&H currently has no camera-only D7000 in stock (as of 11/09/2011), but they do have the Nikon D7000 + 18-105mm VR kit in stock that you can get with a $100 off discount. If you want to buy some good lenses and want to save even more, check out my Nikon rebates post from a couple of days ago (the rebates expire on 11/19/2011).

Here are some sample images from my recent trips, all photographed with the D7000. Some of these will be included in my portfolio page (whenever I find time to update it).

D7000 Sample (23)

D7000 Sample (25)

NIKON D7000 + 40mm f/2.8 @ 40mm, ISO 100, 1/100, f/11.0

D7000 Sample (10)

D7000 Sample (24)

NIKON D7000 + 10.5mm f/2.8 @ 10.5mm, ISO 100, 1/100, f/8.0

D7000 Sample (12)

D7000 Sample (8)

NIKON D7000 + 24-70mm f/2.8 @ 24mm, ISO 200, 1/320, f/8.0

D7000 Sample (9)

D7000 Sample (2)

NIKON D7000 + 400mm f/2.8 @ 550mm, ISO 100, 1/500, f/4.0

Nikon D7000 (2)

Nikon D7000 (3)

NIKON D7000 + 10mm f/2.8 @ 10mm, ISO 100, 1/60, f/11.0

Nikon D7000 (4)

Nikon D7000 (5)

NIKON D7000 + 10.5mm f/2.8 @ 10.5mm, ISO 100, 1/160, f/11.0

Nikon D7000 (6)

Nikon D7000 (7)

NIKON D7000 + 10.5mm f/2.8 @ 10.5mm, ISO 100, 1/160, f/11.0

Nikon D7000 (8)

D7000 Sample (7)

NIKON D7000 + 24-70mm f/2.8 @ 28mm, ISO 100, 1/40, f/11.0


  1. 1) Hylton Spencer
    November 10, 2011 at 12:50 pm

    I owned a D7000 and it disappointed with respect to the auto focus.

    I owned a D300S before that and that camera never let me down once with regards to auto focus.

    I managed to try 3 other D7000’s and all back focused at short distances.

    • November 10, 2011 at 1:03 pm

      Hylton, could you please share your findings with us? Specifically, what lenses you tested the 3 D7000s with and image samples from each one that show backfocus issues? Have you tried contacting Nikon with the problem?

      • 1.1.1) amien safizie
        November 14, 2011 at 2:58 am

        I am also a d7000 user, and seconded Hylton’s point on back focused @ short distance.

        • Alessio
          November 26, 2011 at 1:28 pm

          My Nikon D7000 now is in LTR because without AF Fine Tuning don’t focus at the point where I focus. My lens work good and are all perfect on my Nikon D3000.

          35mm f/1.8 (Nikon D3000 Ok/Nikon D7000 -15)
          60mm f/2.8 (Nikon D3000 Ok/Nikon D7000 -2)
          16-85VR (Nikon D3000 Ok/Nikon D7000 -5)

          I can mail you the images taken with an Af-Tool where the focus issue is more clear.

          Now I’m waiting my Nikon D7000 from LTR.

          An other problem are a sort of “oil spot” on the sensor, it’s not dust and I can’t remove with an air-blower, secondary some time the Nikon D7000 was “freeze” and don’t respond to the shutter button and the lens don’t focus, the only solution is turn-off the Nikon D7000.

          I love my Nikon D7000 but I don’t understand why have all this problems, while other Nikon D7000 are perfect, I hope LTR can repare my Nikon D7000 as soon as possible :(

          • Alessio
            November 30, 2011 at 12:28 pm


            This afternoon I took my Nikon D7000 and now focuses correctly without the need of the AF Fine Tuning, has also been well cleaned the sensor. I am very satisfied with the LTR.

            Good evening.

    • 1.2) Kamil
      November 16, 2011 at 4:04 pm

      Could not agree more. Autofocus in d7000 is a nightmare, and I really mean it. Had mine already adjusted 3 times in German nikon HQs. Each time they admitted the AF is flawed and each time they were unable to repaired. The joy of taking photographs is now overshadowed by constant concerns about the sharpness.

  2. 2) Hylton Spencer
    November 10, 2011 at 1:34 pm

    I sent the camera to Nikon USA three times with both my 50mm 1.4G and 18-105 lenses. Came back firstvtwo times with no change except they ramped up the sharpening.

    On the third occasion, I sent the body and 50mm 1.4G lens to them. The camera came back and it focused fine, however with my 18-105 and 70-200 F2.8 lenses, focusing was still off.

    I tried another unit at Wolf Camera and this one was even worse with both my 50mm lens and a shop sample of a 17-55 F2.8 lens. It once again back focused.

    Back in South Africa, I tried a friends D7000 with both his and my 50mm 1.4 G lenses. Same results, his D7000 back focused whereas mine was spot on with my 50mm lens (after calibration).

    I also got to try a customer of mine’s D7000. It back focused at short distances with my 50mm lens which worked fine on my D7000 after calibration.

    I have never spent so much time shooting test images with a camera. I regret selling my D300s. It had the best auto focus I have ever used. I have opted to sell my D7000 and wait for the D400.

    I did not keep any of the test images I shot.

    • November 14, 2011 at 12:16 am

      Hylton, if the camera + 50mm came back with no AF issues, it means that Nikon determined an AF problem with your 50mm lens, not the camera body and fixed it. That explains why your other lenses still have a problem. The only thing I can recommend at this point is to shoot a couple of images demonstrating the AF issue with your other two lenses and send everything to Nikon (try to do it all at their expense, since it is not your fault). They will either calibrate your D7000, or calibrate all lenses. I would insist on the former.

  3. November 10, 2011 at 1:43 pm

    Thanks for the article. I’ve loved my D7000, and have not experienced any focus issues. I may have gotten lucky with a good copy, but it’s been a wonderful camera for me thus far.

    Thanks again,

    Eric Abbott

  4. 4) Eva
    November 10, 2011 at 2:15 pm

    I bought a D7000 and it died with some error message within a month, but I got a replacement from the store the same day. I did have to calibrate my lenses and I did have to get used to shooting with a less forgiving camera than the D60; however, after doing that, the camera has been perfect. I could not love it more.

    Thanks for the very interesting research results! I can’t believe you compiled all this data!

    • 4.1) Mark
      January 29, 2012 at 4:49 am

      Hi Eva. I notice you moved fro D60 to D7000 like myself, and I have had a number of sharpness issues with my D7K which I think might be me rather than the camera. When you say you had to calibrate your lenses, do you mean using AF fine tuning? Also how did you get used to shooting with a less forgiving camera?


      • 4.1.1) Eva
        January 29, 2012 at 8:13 am

        Hey Mark, yes, I used the SpyderLensCal and the AF fine tuning to adjust. Once I did that, I haven’t had any issues, that I can detect anyway. It really helped my use of the 50mm/f1.4 and the 105mm/f2.8.

        Regarding getting used to shooting with a less forgiving camera, for me, I had to become a better photographer, really pay attention to what I was focusing on and really take more time to frame up a shot. It forced me to improve, which was a great added benefit.

        Hope this helps!

        • Mark
          January 30, 2012 at 1:37 pm

          Hi Eva, thanks for that. It is as I thought, I need to improve, practice makes perfect :). I’ll have a look at the SpyderLensCal as I have heard from good things from various people.

          Take care, and thanks for your help.

  5. 5) Suhaimi
    November 10, 2011 at 5:55 pm

    Mr. Nasim,

    That’s a lot of effort that you made to compile and analyse the data. Thanks a lot for that. I’m grateful to read your article on this.

    I own a D7000 and it’s my first DSLR camera. I bought it last April (2011). The shutter count is now close to 8,000 lol. Since I’m a newbie and I don’t know much about the problems discusses (especially the back focus issue), I admit that the camera has under expose and over expose issue… so it makes me nervous when shooting with JPEG (as we can process the RAW to treat the exposure issue). Besides, I haven’t tried it with those expensive lenses yet (the ones with that big golden N, ED, f/1.4G, f/2.8G, VR II and what not lol)

    But I have the trouble of understanding the back focus issue… anyone has seen a video explaining on that or something more graphic? I find it quite technical? Sorry for my ‘newbieness’ lol

    Btw, love the bird Mr. Nasim!

    • November 14, 2011 at 12:19 am

      Suhaimi, don’t worry about the technical details too much, especially if your camera is working without any problems now.

      I will be writing more articles on optics and will cover circle of confusion soon – you can then try to understand the reasons behind back/front focusing.

      • 5.1.1) Suhaimi
        November 14, 2011 at 12:51 am

        Mr. Nasim,

        Thank you again for your kind reply. Really appreciate that and I’m looking forward to reading those articles :) whenever you post them.

  6. 6) Carol-Jean Ratliff
    November 10, 2011 at 6:15 pm

    If it is not too much trouble, could you please tell me what lenses you usedto take thepictures above? If I’ve overlooked where it is posted, please direct me.

    I am so very glad to have found your site. I have learned so much-still studying to understand, but I enjoy the sit and love looking at your photographs. Thanks!


    • November 14, 2011 at 12:20 am

      Carol, I used many different lenses, including Nikon 10.5 fisheye, Nikon 40mm f/2.8G DX, Nikon 400mm f/2.8G VR, Nikon 50mm f/1.4G, Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8G…

    • November 14, 2011 at 12:21 am

      By the way, all EXIF data is preserved in the images, so you can view the settings with an EXIF viewer.

  7. November 10, 2011 at 6:55 pm


    Thanks for the article and your original D7000 review. I’ve loved my D7000, and have not experienced any focus issues. I use the Nikon 24-120mm f/4.0, 12-24mm f/4.0, 35mm f/1.8 and the 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 AFS Lenses with the D7000. Only issue I have is with the matrix metering exposure and I just compensate or switch to center weight depending on the conditions.

    Thanks for the very interesting research results! I can’t believe you compiled all this data either!

    Cheers, Bill Creech

  8. 8) Barry
    November 10, 2011 at 7:03 pm

    Hi Nasim and all,

    Looks I’m not the only one with exposure issues with d7000! Other than that, I love this camera very much, and it works darn well with my 50mm 1.4G!

  9. 9) Chris
    November 10, 2011 at 7:50 pm

    Hi Nasim,

    Don’t have a d7000 but wanted to say that these photos are gorgeous. As a beginner just wondering why you don’t list the lens and settings used in the shots? I want to get a wide for my d5100 but not sure how wide – not that my photos would ever look like yours even with the same equipment:)

    • November 14, 2011 at 12:25 am

      Thank you for your feedback Chris! I used a variety of lenses for these shots, everything from macro (40mm DX) to super telephoto (400mm f/2.8G VR). All of the above images have EXIF data preserved, so you can see exposure data with an EXIF viewer or plugin.

      As for a wide lens, I highly recommend the Nikon 16-85mm VR lens – it is a great lens for landscapes.

  10. 10) Victor
    November 11, 2011 at 12:45 am

    Hello Nasim.
    I own a D7000+grip + 35mm/1,8G + 70-300mm VR, and now I’m looking for the 3rd lens (for studio shoots).. I think maby 17-55mm 2,8 DX.. Can you recommend something ? Thanks a lot.

    • 10.1) Andrei
      November 11, 2011 at 5:38 am

      Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 without VC is a great lens. May be the best in the market after Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8.

      • November 14, 2011 at 12:26 am

        Tamron might be a good alternative, but I have not personally used it.

        • Andrei
          November 14, 2011 at 7:08 am

          Nasim, I find your reviews the most informative in the web. It will be great if one day you will test Tamron 17-50mm lens. When one try to find 24-70 f/2.8, 70-200 f/2.8 equivalent for D7000 it’s a tricky task. I do use Tamron 17-50mm a lot and really like this lens. I still don’t decide what to choose as the second lens. I’m shooting a lot of concerts, so wide aperture is a requirement.

          Thanks, Andrei

          • Profile photo of Nasim Mansurov Nasim Mansurov
            November 14, 2011 at 10:07 am

            Andrei, it is on the list of “to-dos” for me :)

            • Paliakos
              January 19, 2012 at 5:34 am

              Anyone tried the SIGMA 17-70 OS??? I’m thinking of buying this beauty..

    • November 13, 2011 at 10:04 pm

      Victor, I would not waste money on the 17-55mm lens – it is too expensive for a DX lens. I would get something like the Nikon 16-85mm instead.

      • 10.2.1) Sam
        November 14, 2011 at 4:59 am

        Andrei, I’ve ‘listened’ to Nasim and got the 16-85mm yesterday. It’s a good buy indeed.

        Thanks, Nasim.

        • Andrei
          November 14, 2011 at 7:07 am

          Victor, AFAIK 16-85mm is a great lens for D7000 if you don’t need to shoot in low light.

  11. 11) Xpanded
    November 11, 2011 at 1:34 am

    Dear Nasim. Thank you for all your hard work. Your unassuming ways combined with the beautiful photos you frequently post make you quite unique on the web. You have technical insight, artistic vision, and on top of that you come through as a thoroughly nice chap. That is rare :-)

    Looking very much forward to reading your reviews on the bunch of cameras you just received – in good time of course!


  12. 12) T_g
    November 11, 2011 at 4:23 am

    Hi Nasim,

    Once more, great article.

    I have a question regarding metering, exposure and JPEG rendering.

    Have you heard people complaining about the exposure / metering ? Because my wife’s D7000 has a real (imo) problem with this.

    It overexposes all the time. Be it, I can dial on EV …

    But the JPEG rendering is just not OK. Lacking contrast, no good dynamic range, faded colors, no vivid / flat colors.

    And even PP in Lightroom does not do a sufficient job to get the results I should be getting at the end.

    Me & my wife have used D50, D70, D200, D40, D700 … none of those had problems with the rendering. Even the high-level D700 that should be needing more post-processing gave us better results right out of the camera.

    My question is : have you heard people complaining about this.

    Plus, I have not taken a single image with such contrast/dynamic range/vivid colors as the one you show at the end of your article. Where they taken as RAW or JPEG ?
    If you answer is JPEG, even with PP … we need to send our D7000 to Nikon right away.


    • November 14, 2011 at 12:29 am

      Guillaume, I have not heard of any problems with JPEG rendering on the D7000. I personally never shoot in JPEG, because RAW gives me more options for post-processing. All of the above images were captured in RAW, then post-processed in Lightroom/Photoshop.

      I did not see any problems with color rendering on the D7000 DSLR bodies that I tested.

  13. 13) Axel
    November 11, 2011 at 5:33 am

    Hi Nasim,

    Greetings from Germany! Glad I found your site a while ago; especially your comparative lens reviews are eye opening and amazing. I am not ware of any other photographer or reviewer going through that effort. Kudos!

    My D7k (probably built late 2010) had a generic focus issue with my 2.8 lenses (105 VR, 24-70, 70-200). All exhibited a weird focus behaviour ranging from front focus to back focus to no focal plane at all (shot with focus priority). Hit rate got better at 5.6 and disappeared completely stopped down to 8.0. Both the 16-35 and 24-120 (f/4) worked fine no matter what.

    Nikon central service Germany fixed it within 1 week under warranty, calling out “AF module adjusted”. The problem is gone completely since then. The bad news is I can no longer blame the camera for bad shots……

    Besides that, I could not agree more with your review.


    • November 14, 2011 at 12:32 am

      Thank you for your feedback Axel! Looks like your issue was related to the camera, because the AF module is located inside the camera. The only puzzle here is the front/back focus and other inconsistencies in your lenses. Generally, whenever there is an AF issue in a camera, all lenses should show similar behavior (either front focus or back focus, but not both). It could be that your issue was related to some other AF problem…

  14. 14) ahmed
    November 11, 2011 at 7:32 am

    Hi Nasim
    first off, love the site. Dont know how i’d manage without your expert advice. I have a d7000 and wanted to know which lens you would recommend for taking close up shots of distant images. the 70-200mm is out of my price range and i was thinking of the 18-200mm but didnt read an enthusiastic recommendation on your site. is there sny other lens you would recommend? Many thanks.

    • November 13, 2011 at 9:59 pm

      Ahmed, if you need to get close under $1000, your best bet is the Nikon 70-300mm VR lens.

      • 14.1.1) Ahmed
        November 14, 2011 at 1:10 am

        Thanks Nasim,

        Can I impose on you for one more question. Given a choice, for the D7000 would you recommend the Nikon 70-300mm VR or the Nikon 28-300mm?

        Many thanks

  15. 15) E Ramakanth
    November 11, 2011 at 11:19 am

    The article and the pictures posted are excellent. I love reading the articles posted on your site. I have a D7000 with 18-200 VR II lens. Here is my question. I notice that when I take a picture through the view finder, the ISO goes up to 3200 [as per the setting in the setting], where as I take the same shot thru live view, the ISO does not change. Why does it do this?

    • November 14, 2011 at 12:35 am

      Thank you! ISO should change when the actual picture is taken. Check your settings on each image with and without live view. Live view generally shows an image on LCD at maximum aperture.

  16. 16) Peter
    November 11, 2011 at 7:25 pm

    I love your stats. So predictive of human nature…70% user error! So what else is new?

    What scares me is that these are the same people who are voting idiots into political office.

    We’re doomed!

  17. 17) Arun
    November 11, 2011 at 10:50 pm

    Hey I am planing to buy my first DSLR. I just started a family life with a 1 yr old kid, in new country new job…. I burned my finger buying an expensive Nokia (N900) and is completely dead. So basically I am scarred of buying anything.

    But, I am a fanatic lover of Art, specifically Pics….also wanted to cover my baby’s initial days….cannot afford to make another mistake on big purchase on electronics…..

    So would you guys recommend me D90 or shud I go for D7000…I am interested in HD video stuffs too…and I am a beginner planning to take photography serious…semi pro….kind…

  18. 18) fardin
    November 12, 2011 at 1:46 am




  19. 19) Pauli
    November 12, 2011 at 6:58 am

    Yep no problems here… only problem is Me! Probably im the one that need to upgrade.
    And Thanks for Your site, greate infos here, keep up good work :-)
    And pardon my bad english
    Greating from Finland,yes its gold and dark here in this time of year :-(

    • November 14, 2011 at 12:37 am

      Thank you Pauli! Your English is fine! It is pretty cold and dark here in Colorado as well :)

  20. November 12, 2011 at 10:54 am

    I don’t have a D7000 (yet?), and one thing holding me back are the issues reported. Not because I think the camera has a problem, but because most of the complaints reminded me of problems I had in a long time ago; first time when I switched from 35 mm film to medium format, and again when I went from medium format to a large view camera. A better camera means everything gets more critical…

    Your additional review confirms what I thought, and I remain in doubt. One should always think about how much perfection one wants, and how much one is prepared to do to get the most of the equipment used. I will keep thinking about it, which is made easier by the lack of available camnera s. :-)

    • November 14, 2011 at 12:39 am

      Jan, don’t worry too much about these issues. As you can see, they are rather rare and Nikon can quickly fix a problem if there is one. No product is perfect. Canon and Sony also have similar issues with their cameras and lenses, unfortunately…

  21. 21) Mukamo
    November 13, 2011 at 1:21 am

    Thanks Nasim for a great review on D7000. As a newbie and because this is my first DSLR camera, can you explained deeper how to distinguish a camera with back focus problem. Second, can you advise for a good single lens that works for both landscaping and portraiture on my D7000?

    • November 14, 2011 at 12:41 am

      Mukamo, I will publish an article on calibrating lenses soon, so stay tuned. As for a lens that can do both landscapes and portraits (wide and telephoto), your best bet is to use a kit lens for that…

      • 21.1.1) Mukamo
        November 14, 2011 at 4:42 am

        Now that I have an idea for the lenses, your choice would be my final decision. Which one should I choose 18-105mm kit lens or 16-85 mm (as per Kevin’s reply)? The lenses which I have already are 50 mm f/1.8 and 55-300mm f/4.5. Your choice will be my third lens and please consider my purpose. Thank you Nasim and also to Kevin.

  22. 22) Kevin Kwan
    November 13, 2011 at 5:30 am

    Dear Nasim,
    Again, thank you for your follow-up of what was already a brilliant review. I shoot with the D7000 often having just returned from a holiday using the camera and the Nikkor 16-85mm as a travel lens. It is indeed a phenomenal DX camera and I feel a significant enough upgrade over the D90.

    Within user and sensor idiosyncracies one can realise much potential with this camera. Sure, highlights will be clipped in a high contrast, bright scene and occassionally, a mild EV or fill light adjustment may have to be made in Lightroom.

    With focus issues, I read with interest the various posts and inconsistencies on user forums such as dpreview as well as my own experience. I used the Lensalign MkII with a Nikon 85mm f/1.4G. And I found that any inconsistencies with focus were … due to user error, especially when handheld (yes I know you’re meant to use the lensalign with a tripod but that doesn’t reflect day to day use necessarily). A higher shutter speed of 2x rather than 1.5x the focal length equivalent also improved results. I even paid to have the camera focus professionally tested by a Nikon authorised service centre … who found the focus was fine!

    The D7000 is quite an advanced dSLR.

    As for Mukamo’s post above, I would suggest looking at the Lensalign or similar lens focus calibration charts… but without splitting hairs, do so after you have looked at a few photos to judge whether you have a problem. I have yet to find a perfect DX landscape and portraiture lens (panning the 85mm f/1.4G works but is fiddlesome for instance, the wide angle lenses do not have the greatest bokeh nor flattering perspective etc… and the FX zoom lens are expensive and perhaps not the first purchase a new dSLR user should necessarily invest in). Perhaps Nasim has an insightful opinion.

    • 22.1) Mukamo
      November 13, 2011 at 10:06 pm

      Thanks Kevin, I know FX zoom lens are expensive but it would be great if you can mention any of these lens that will work for my intension and is there any disadvantage if I use FX lens? And I’m hoping Nasim will give advise too :)

      • 22.1.1) Kevin
        November 13, 2011 at 10:23 pm

        Hi Mukamo. The FX zoom lens are expensive and there are several factors that may be a potential disadvantage. The 24-70 f/2.8 lens is reasonably heavy, although still balances on the D7000. However, one must take into account that whilst 24mm on FX is reasonable for landscape, the 1.5x crop factor gives an equivalent field of view of roughly 36mm on DX which is not ideal for landscape as it is too wide. The 14-24mm fisheye FX lens is again expensive and good landscape lens but is not necessarily the most flattering for portraits or bokeh. You are better off having one lens for landscape and a seperate prime (e.g. the 50mm f/1.4G or f/1.8G or 85mm lenses) for portraiture. On DX, the 16-85mm is decent as a landscape lens but it’s slow aperture means subject isolation is nowhere near as useful as a fast prime – and the bokeh is average, but not what anyone would call spectacular.

        Apart from weight, cost and the 1.5x crop factor meaning the useful focal length isn’t as practical on DX as these are designed to be FX lens), an FX lens works fine on DX. However, in most cases, there is another lens that can do what you want, with better value for money.

        I suppose the other option is the 17-55 f/2.8DX lens which is a professional grade DX zoom equivalent of the 24-70mm f/2.8. Another is the Tamrom 17-50 f/2.8 – however, I do not own either of these lenses.

        • Calibrator
          November 14, 2011 at 1:26 pm

          You mean the Nikkor 14-24 F2.8? It is _not_ a fisheye but a regular ultra-wide lens, even though it features a bulbous front element (which is why people often confuse it for one).
          The lens perhaps most comparable with it for the DX format is the Sigma 8-16, which translates to 12-24 on a DX and also has an exposed bulbous front element and an integrated partial lens hood.

    • November 14, 2011 at 12:42 am

      Thank you for your feedback Kevin!

  23. 23) Rich
    November 14, 2011 at 6:25 am

    Again your right on point. Thanks for the info. I just purchased the D7000 and for a first lens, after reading reviews went with the 18-200 VR II lens. Did I make a mistake? You mention above it is a “entry level”. Will you ever comment on basic D7000 settings? Great Photos!

    • November 14, 2011 at 10:09 am

      Rich, the 18-200mm is not an entry-level lens, it is a superzoom. I personally do not like it, because it is a “jack of all trades and master of none”, but I know many photographers that rely on this lens for travel when they do not want to switch lenses.

  24. 24) Anil
    November 14, 2011 at 9:50 am

    Dear Nasim,

    Thanks for the very helpful article. I have alps gone through the comments. The pictures are lovely. Will you be kind enough to write about the settings and post processing steps you take? Sad to say that I have never got colours like that. Is the vivid setting plus op that do the trick?

    Or, kindly consider writing an article on exposures and tricks that may work. People like me may try and try but never end up getting the luscious colours, saturation and so on. One issue should be the lenses. But hopefully you will enlighten your amateure readers like me.

    Keep up the great work.

    Thanks and regards


    • November 14, 2011 at 9:53 am

      Anil, I have plenty of articles on post-processing and there is a detailed guide on how to photograph landscapes. I shoot in RAW and post-process all images in Lightroom / Photoshop.

      • 24.1.1) David Hoang
        November 15, 2011 at 7:02 pm

        Hi Nasim,

        I too have the D7000 and love your website. Your pictures above have excellent Dynamic range from the bright white clouds in the sky to the shadows in the trees. Did you use some sort of filter to capture the dynamic range in the scene? I know that if i shot the same photo, i would have blown highlights.



  25. November 14, 2011 at 5:28 pm

    Hi there!

    I just want to say a couple of words on AF (backfocus) problem in D7000… I have my D7000 since the day it was released in October of the last year (actually even earlier – it’s one of the leaked BestBuy units). I was fighting with backfocus issue as well until I asked my friend who worked for one of the camera repair companies to try fixing the camera and after we tuned AF in that software – I was all set and never had any problems anymore…

    Just FYI – D7000 is my travel camera. For my work (Wedding photography) – I use 2 D3s bodies and they never needed any adjustment… ;-)

  26. 26) Marcus
    November 14, 2011 at 10:54 pm

    I have my D7000 since March this year (in Germany – not everybody here is from the US ;-)) and I have no back/front focus issues and the camera performs very well in general and when an image doesn’t turn out as expected it’s always a user problem… ;-)

    However, my sensor got dirty very quickly by (what I think) oil spots from the mirror mechanics as I didn’t change lenses excessively.
    I also read about that issue on several websites and Nikon offering a free cleaning within the first three months after purchase, at least here in Germany. I was aware of it after five months, though.
    As I don’t like sending my camera in for cleaning I opted for wet cleaning it myself and it worked very well. I used Visible Dust “Green Sensor Swabs” with “Smear Away”-solution for oil stains, not the regular “Sensor Clean” one. I usually don’t advertise stuff on the net but I can recommend this product as it works and –with proper handling– won’t damage the sensor.
    Now I check the sensor more regularly.

    What I also experienced was several memory card lockups with my more expensive SanDisk cards (I put it in and the upper display shows “Error” or “Card Error”) – I had no problems while shooting, though.
    I updated the camera firmware to the new 1.03 version which seems to address this problem and I’ll see in the future how that works.

    Other than these problems the only things I can criticize are design errors like for example not being able to use the trigger button when in remote mode. I’m *forced* to use the remote — what’s the point of that?
    I also often wished for a second programmable function button but then again this isn’t a pro body, isn’t it?

    • 26.1) Naftoli
      May 16, 2012 at 11:22 am

      Marcus the Sandisk memory card issue was resolved in a firmware update, there r two programmable function buttons on the front of the body

  27. 27) Patrick Sullivan
    November 15, 2011 at 11:07 am

    I have used the Nikon D7000 for a while and it has an accurate auto focus sensor. The times in which my subject is not in focus I can attribute to the fact that I was not paying attention to where the camera was focused when I hit the shutter release. For example, over the weekend I was snapping away at an NHL hockey game and my best photo focused on the ref, not the player behind him braking and kicking up a bunch of ice. The ref was in wonderful focus, the players were blurry.

    When we complain about the sensor we have to make sure we are not tricking the sensor unfairly with very high key scenes and not compensating – then being irritated that the “camera” under exposed. This was me at the Pepsi Center Saturday night. The camera didn’t under expose, I did because I failed to realize that the bright white ice indicated to the sensor that the camera should underexpose. I should have EV +.7 at least to compensate. Lesson learned.

  28. 28) Mako2011
    November 15, 2011 at 2:17 pm

    I found your article right in-line with many of the reported complaints in many of the forums. Your take seems realistic and well written. Regards the overexposure/underexposure issue, do you have Active D-Lighting (ADL) turned on and what AF-Area mode do you primarily use? The Matrix metering algorithms seem particularity sensitive to skin tones with the D7000. Thank you for your time and work.

  29. 29) K2 Guy
    November 15, 2011 at 6:02 pm

    I’ve owned a D7000 for almost a year now and I agree that it is one fantastic camera. The only problem I’ve had was oil on my sensor. It was real and I spent quite a bit having it cleaned (by both Nikon and an authorized dealer). I have since learned to clean it myself. Nikon finally stepped up, admitted that there was a problem and did a repair that resolved my oil splatter problem. It has been a month now and all is good. Everyday, new shots with this camera never cease to amaze me. I have not had any focus issues with all my shot tack sharp after taking Ray Soars’ advice on setting my camera up. And finally, great review. I can’t imagine the time and efforts you took to do it. Thanks and keep up the good work!

    • 29.1) Zivile
      November 30, 2011 at 5:21 am

      I see I am not the only one having problems with the sensor. I cleaned the oil from the sensor a couple of times already (first time after a month after buying the camera) and the issue still keeps on appearing. If I understood right Nikon is able to fix the problem and oil shouldn’t appear on sensor, right? Should I seek for help in local Nikon centre?

      Thank you for information!

      P.S. I am so glad to find this site! Thank you, Nasim, for easy to understand insights!

      • 29.1.1) Jason
        December 1, 2011 at 1:13 am

        I have exactly the same problem guys. Just sent back my D7000 (2months old only) to Noel Leeming Store and requested a full product replacement yesterday but Nikon insisted they will repair it. I bought the D7000 body only and an 18-200 VRII lens, 32G card, extra battery and extended warranty. It cost me a total of NZ$3400, and for this amount of investment I get this oil spot problem in only over 2 months time. I told them I did not buy the problem but the product. I have also spoken with TA Mcalister (Nikon NZ) here in Auckland NZ and the service manager acknowledge the oil spot problem of the D7000 line. I find this very appalling, they knew the D7000 has problems and they still continue to distribute it to innocent consumers like us. I believe this is an absolute manufacturer fault, misleading consumers and NIKON should at least have the balls to admit it publicly. Shame on you NIKON! You have totally killed my faith in you. I guess my case will escalate to the claims tribunal as they really insist in giving the same repaired item which I absolutely would not accept, not in this lifetime.

  30. 30) Mukamo
    November 16, 2011 at 1:36 am

    I just want to share and ask something about what I have red on forum of other website that you can fix the back focus/front focus issue by doing the 3 steps: 1) Reset Shooting Menu to its default, 2) Reset Custom Menu to its default (even you didn’t touch this) and 3) Hold down the 2 green button (at least 4 second and not 2 second as per manual) to reset the camera. Have you ever try this and does it work?

    • 30.1) Mukamo
      November 22, 2011 at 2:37 am

      Calling all expert :), does anyone tried the above steps and find if it works?

      Second, can I copy the AF tuning of others if I have the same lens?

      • 30.1.1) Axel
        November 29, 2011 at 7:59 am

        Hi Mukamo,

        Nope, I had mine with Nikon Central Service in Germany – they fixed it by “adjustment of AF-Module” which is a clean solution to me. And frankly, there is a fundamental flaw in this miraculous reset solution: If the AF module is mechanically mis-adjusted, then a software reset will not do anything.

        You can of course copy the AF tuning settings of others but it will also not get you anywhere. The cameras and lenses are individually adjusted and what works for a combo of cam A with lens B will most likely not be identical to cam X and lens Y.

        If you have a focus issue, let the experts at Nikon get it right, hoepfully still under warranty.

  31. 31) Bart V
    November 16, 2011 at 11:23 am

    Hello Nassim,

    Very nice photo’s!
    Question, which lens did you use?
    I wish we had that kind of nature here in belgium….


  32. 32) Richard
    November 17, 2011 at 4:58 am

    Hi Nasim
    Thanks for your wonderful articles. I think they are the most helpful photography articles I’ve come across. I’ve spent about three hours with them so far.

    I especially enjoyed your D7000 review and follow-up, and the fantastic articles on shooting sharp photos and on wedding apertures for different groups.

    You really put a lot of work into these. Thanks again.

  33. 33) Ty
    November 18, 2011 at 6:44 am

    Hi Nasim,

    I’ve been using the D7000 for about 8 months now. I’ve been very impressed with the cameras performance, but have one continuing annoyance with the AF 3-D tracking. The situation occurs when I’m tracking a moving subject (typically a player because I mainly shoot sports). Although my focus point is clearly on the moving subject (as witnessed through the viewfinder), many times the cameras decides to focus on a stationary subject (person sitting in stands) when the shot is finally taken. This drives me absolutely nuts, and I have yet to figure out why it happens? I understand that, in this mode contrasting colors is used to track objects, but that doesn’t explain why the camera would choose to pick something totally different that what is being tracked.

  34. November 21, 2011 at 3:59 am

    Hi Nasim,

    thanks for putting toghether these numbers – should prove helpful to a number of doubters out there.

    Personally I have owned three samples of the D7000 since last autumn. The first one was of the very first to hit our shores, and this is the only one that gave me trouble.

    Sample 1: AF dead acurate w/Nikon 24-70mm @ 70mm / f/2.8 and 35mm f/1.8 @ f/1.8

    Sample with the 35mm

    What did give me trouble however was a defective AF-lever (don’t know what it does). It caused AF simply to stop working. As it was nearing christmas I was cameraless over the holidays as the camera had to be returned for service.

    After I got it back it worked flawless.

    Sample 2: Worked flawlessy, accurate AF w/24-70mm, but needed AF finetune -10 for the 50mm f/1.4 AF-S

    Sample thereof

    I’d say that AF finetuning is to be expected for lenses of this caracter. After this adjustment AF was alway acurate.

    Sample 3: Same as above. Worked flawlessly.

    In short, of three cameras one had a defect that was handled under warranty. None had unreliable AF, but on some AF finetune was needed.

  35. 35) Petr Lunak
    November 22, 2011 at 5:17 am

    Hi Nasim. My D7000 has unfortunately strong back focus problem. With all my lenses. I checked three other D7000s and two of them had also the same problem with BF. Here you have a samples taken with 105 VR micro. The first shot is from live view AF as a reference, the second picture is taken through the viewfinder using center point only a the third one is again through the viewfinder, but with AF fine tune on with -20 value.

  36. 36) FM
    November 24, 2011 at 11:18 am

    Hello Nasim,

    Perfect!!! article.

    Once again higly appreciated your mentoring by writing highly technical stuff, comparision yet easy to understand language.

    After reading review between D7000 & D300s on your site (; I have decided to go with D7000 (having slightly doubt of focus issue after reading many thrads on web). And yes the decission has not fall short of expectation. It’s focus is absolutely sharp and perfect. I do not found any issue till now. Also tested and works great with my old 28-80mm nikon lens as well as 50 mm 1.8 nikon lens.

    Once again thank you for writing fabulas technical article and replying threads.


  37. 37) Rahoul Mitra
    November 29, 2011 at 6:47 am

    Hi Nassim,
    Having accidentaly discovered your site, I am now a regular visitor. Your reviews and explanations are so precise and simple that an ameture like me also grasps technical issues easily.
    Having graduated up from a Nikon D-90 to the D-7000 has’nt really been gratifying considering the amount invested. It has off course been a learning experience and with your inputs I am today technically more well versed with the finer aspects of photography. Not that I am unhappy with my D-7000, its just that I am unable to keep pace with the comments that keep pouring in to your site. Can be very confusing.
    There is one thing that I would like to know — its regarding ISO. when I set ISO sensitivity to a max of say 1600 and shoot a subject with auto ISO set. Why is it that the camera shows the same ISO with or with out flash ? e.g. a photo taken without flash selects ISO 1600 and the same shot with flash also selects ISO 1600. Is this correct ? Your views on my observation would be highly appreciated.
    Once again my heartiest best wishes for such an exceptional site.
    Warm regards,

    • 37.1) Axel
      December 13, 2011 at 10:21 am

      Hi Rahoul,

      Let me offer you an explanation.

      When you set the ISO to 1600, you fix it at that value. The camera “thinks” you choose that value in order to increase the sensitivity in lowlight conditions to achieve a shorter exposure time. The flash does not change anything here since you fixed the value.

      Auto ISO works the other way round: You set the camera to a low ISO value, e.g. 100 which is the D7k default. With light getting worse, exposure time gets longer up to the point where you will see camera shake or object movement. Blurred image in any case.

      Either you increase the ISO manually now or let Auto ISO do the job for you – in conjunction with exposure time. As an example: Auto ISO = 1600, exposure time = 1/15 sec. What it means is that you shoot with ISO100 in this example as long as the exposure is shorter than 1/15. With light getting worse, the camera will keep 1/15 and start to increase the ISO automatically for you. When it reaches the max. ISO (here 1600), exposure time will increase.

      Smart piece of technology…..hope this helps.


      • 37.1.1) Rahoul Mitra
        December 13, 2011 at 9:50 pm

        Hi Axel,
        Thanx for replying. I think my question was not clear. I use auto ISO in Program mode with ISO sensitivity set to a max of 1600. and still the camera selects the same value of ISO irrelevent of wether you use Flash or not. But when I use Auto mode instead of Program mode the auto ISO selects a much lower value ISO with flash which is the right thing. Why does the same not happen in Program mode ?
        I hope I’ve been able to explain myself.
        Once again I appreciate your reply.

  38. 38) BAM
    November 29, 2011 at 5:57 pm

    Because I was frustrated with my 5 month old Nikon D7K I found this site. What I was longing for was an unprocessed fullsize image from a D7K that I could open in Photoshop and compare it to my own images. Thank you, Nasim, for providing that here. I contacted Nikon and sent sample images. They agreed there was an issue and had me send in the body. Approximately 2 weeks later my camera came back with a replaced autofocus gearshaft so it was an actual mechanical problem. Now I’m going to try to stop obsessing about the sharpness thing.

  39. 39) John E
    December 5, 2011 at 9:00 am

    I love my D7000, but have experienced the user induced focusing errors. The focusing capability of the camera exceeds my previous cameras substantially. Early on I tended to over rely on the autofocus capability as if it was a point and shoot camera — which it is not. There is a lot of focus information provided in the viewfinder — once I learned to use it instead of ignore it all the focus issues went away and the focusing was precise.

  40. 40) Manuel
    December 7, 2011 at 8:16 pm

    I have a Nikon D7000 and never have had a problem with my copy . It was bought about 4 months ago . Focusing is much better then my D90 in all respects .

    • 40.1) Jason
      December 9, 2011 at 2:25 pm

      Hi Manuel,

      Can you do all of us a favor and check your camera for oil spots. This can be done by shooting in the following settings:

      Aperture Priority Mode @ f/22
      Mode Dial on CH (Continuous High)
      ISO 100
      Image Size – S/BasiC
      Do not use flash

      It is important that you shoot on a clean white wall or on a clear blue sky. After shooting, please check your images if you notices black spots all over the frame and let us know. Thanks.

  41. 41) Ding
    December 9, 2011 at 9:14 pm

    Thanks for the great article. Sounds like – moving up to higher pixel count, Nikon need to refresh lots of their kit lenses. Most of the lenses today are very comfortable in the 10-12MP. But going beyond 18MP sensor, all the kit lenses really need to be redone. Even some of the fast lenses can be seen struggling in these region.

  42. 42) Baljinder
    December 15, 2011 at 5:53 pm

    hi there

    I found your website interesting and reading it everyday. I learn a lot from it and finally i’m thinking to buy a nikon d7000 camera…..can you please tell me what kind of lens I must have for daily life. Im not a pro so please dont suggest me high end lens (for flower closeup, indoor parties, portrait landscape and animal)


  43. 43) Rashmin
    December 18, 2011 at 9:41 pm

    Hello Nasim,
    Your site and blogs have wealth of information and find it very useful. Till now I am using Nikon point-shoot camera, but interested in buying DSLR since last few months. I know my budget would allow me only DX camera and I think that make sense for first timers. For now I am buying it for my hobby but if I turn into serious photographer then I may look at FX cameras.
    I was reading your site about what DSLR and lens are good for beginners like me and looks like it all based on individual’s budget and requirements. My budget is $2000 US and for now I will be using it for indoor and outdoor family pictures, indoor could be low to very low light location, outdoor could be park, lake(beach) or mountain. I love landscape photography.
    After reading few articles on your site I choose D7000 and Nikon 50mm f/1.8G AF-S (portrait). This can change based on your advise. I am getting confused about what telephoto and wide angle lens or what other lenses I should buy. I will not be doing any wild-life photography but may need to capture far objects (rarely). Can you please advise what camera and lenses should I buy lookig at my budget and requirements? Your advice will be very helpful to buy the best in budget.
    Thanks in advance.
    Happy Holidays.

  44. 44) Raquel
    December 21, 2011 at 11:08 am

    After reading all of the comments here, I think I’m going to set my start out sights a little lower and go with the D90. I plan to pick up some community ed classes but even with those, I think the 7000 will be out of my current level of understanding. Thank you everyone for your comments and insight, they put me back into reality. I’ll go searching for D90 info now.

  45. 45) Sabin
    December 21, 2011 at 11:39 pm

    I had Nikon D7000 since December last year. The camera had the issue with spilling oil all over the sensor. You could clean it twice a day. After several months I had it returned to Nikon service center, which attempted to fix it for 3 whole weeks. No success ! They replaced the camera and gave me a brand new body. This one works fine until now. I think the statistics you have are not accurate and there less user error and more manufacturing flaws that you state in the article.
    My first camera was an early batch. It seems that Nikon fix it afterwards.

    • 45.1) Khosrow
      May 17, 2012 at 1:56 pm

      I do agree with you Sabin,
      As an owner of D7000/16-85 for more than a year, I have focusing issue randomly on my shots.
      This is my first time to visit this site and by seeing the nice D7000 pic samples and Mr. Nasim’s judgements about user faults that related it to lack of knowledge of photographers, I do believe that Nikon supports him to prepare such reviews with nice pics and people start to buy bugy D7000 considering his recommendation.

      • 45.1.1) gfinlayson
        May 17, 2012 at 3:46 pm

        I don’t think I’ve ever read any more slanderous BS than this! Nasim doesn’t take backhanders from Nikon to recommend their products. The D7000 is a phenomenally advanced camera which is capable of producing outstanding images In the right hands. Nasim just happens to be one of those photographers who can really make it sing.

        The Nikon D7000 has suffered from a couple of issues, but no more than any other high-end DSLR.

        If you’re randomly having focus issues, the camera is obviously working OK. You don’t state what you’re shooting and what AF settings you’re using when you get out of focus shots. My money is on user error. I regularly get out of focus shots, but when you’re tracking fast moving birds in flight with a 500mm prime lens, that’s to be expected. It’s my technique that needs to improve, not a faulty D7000!

        • Khosrow
          May 23, 2012 at 2:19 am

          Dear gfinlayson,
          Thanks for the response,
          The reason I am not happy with this product is the basics.
          I am a 49 years old camera man and still have my old friends ie Nikon F2 Photomic/55mm f1:1.2 and Nikon FE, the reason of saying this is just to say at least I am familiar with the basics.

          At that time, the sync speed of flash was 1/60 second on vertical curtains models and specially in F2 it had increased to 1/90, then in horizontal blade types improved to 1/125 and even 1/250
          Now my experience in D7000 is funny:
          subject is in 2 meter away, iso is set preferably 100 but can go max to 3200, then when i shoot on “P” mode, i see a strange setting chosen by camera:
          speed: 1/30 with both internal and external flash(SB-800),
          iso: 3200
          distance: 2 meters
          F stop: 7.1
          and the problem is that I have not a clear subject due to low speed chosen by camera.
          My objection to Nikon logic is clear: why its software chose lowest sync speed and highest ISO while the distance to subject is in range of flash power and the background color is not dark?

          2- My issue with focus is different from others.
          One of the improvements on D7000 which Nikon asked more money for that is to use 39 points matrix in compare with 11 points in D90. Then when you have problem in focusing on your target, they suggest to reduce it to 11 points, if the problem persist, then to one point focus point like spot focusing.
          Up to here, you paid extra for nothing.
          Then in my case, when i focus on an enough high contrast object with one point focus square pointed on subject, then camera prefer to focus on bottom left side of viewfinder which is 2 or 3 meters away from the main subject, while the red square mark is still on the target (checked with ViewNX 2)
          The firm ware upgraded to 1.03 and I checked all focusing modes available in camera setting.
          My lens is 16-85 and I put the camera in the closet for ever.

          Sorry me for my weak English language

          • gfinlayson
            May 23, 2012 at 3:42 am

            The best advice I can give is to turn off auto ISO when using flash. If I’m using flash only for illumination, I use manual mode with a shutter speed of 1/250, and set the flashgun to TTL, or manual and fire a couple of test shots and adjust the manual flash output to achieve the desired exposure. If I’m trying to balance flash with ambient, the Speedlight TTL-BL mode works well most of the time, but I also use manual settings on the camera and flash to get the right exposure balance.

            With the autofocus issue, you don’t state which focus mode you’re using. If you use AF-A, the camera chooses your focus point. I only use AF-C and AF-S modes and select the number of focus points appropriate to the subject.

            I can’t help much more without some more information on your settings.

  46. 46) Jens Johansson
    December 24, 2011 at 2:24 am

    My D7000 focuses perfectly and records beautiful pictures in daylight, but the warmer the light gets the worse it back focuses. It’s very predictable, but it does force me to always take a test shot and then adjust af in every situation. This renders the camera pretty much unusable for my primary use, for weddings, where I frequently encounter varying indoor light.

  47. December 29, 2011 at 12:04 am

    greetings mr. mansurov,

    im a newbie. i have nikon d7000 & nikon 28-300mm f3.5 ed vr. i would like to know how to shoot handheld night shot.

    before i use to have the kit lens (18-105mm). turned the dial to scene mode, then nightlandscape, voila, i have an astonishing night shot.

    since i decided to dispatched my 18-105mm kit lens and tried SCENE mode, then nigth landscape, im disappointed about the result compared to my previous 18-105mm.

    another thing, SCENE mode+Sports Mode= blury motion ?(i was specting clear images.)

    need help.

    luv my nikon d7000 as well as my new 28-300mm. im starting to luv photography (family used only)

    With Respect
    jsprmctngy, auh, uae

  48. January 5, 2012 at 6:23 am

    Since I wrote my previous comment I bought my fourth – and now current D7000.

    This one HAD serious backfocus out-of-the-box. Testing with the 18-105mm kit-lens, 35mm f/1.8 AF-S G and 50mm f/1.8 AF-S G all yeilded the same results. Very strong backfocus.

    Tired using fine-tune but all of them required more than -20 it seemed.

    Handed it over to a local servicecenter ( and within a couple of hours I could pick it up. Got it just in time for Christmas – and now it performs superbly with all lenses without af fine-tune.

    50mm @ f/2.2

    35mm @ f/1.8

    If on doubt, have yours checked – it need not take forever, and you are certain there’s no problem.

  49. 49) Rahoul Mitra
    January 7, 2012 at 8:21 am

    Hi Nasim,
    Wish you and your family a very Happy New Year, may the year bring you success and happiness.
    Now that you are back from your vacation I hope you’ll be able to clear my doubts expressed on the 13th. of Dec.’11. in this coloum.
    warm regards,

  50. 50) Harry In Alberta
    January 7, 2012 at 9:41 pm

    Nasim, great work, terrific shots! I am currently on my 2nd 7000. The first had to have the autofocus re-calibrated, then the EV would migrate to the + or – , the longer the camera was on the further it would automajically migrate. Nikon replaced the camera. Since that time I have had focussing “challenges” and sent the body and my 70-300 VR into Nikon, they found my VR to be faulty in the lens, so they replaced that under warranty. So I have a relatively new body (April 2011) and lens (November 2011) and Nikon assures me that all are working as they should. However, I continue to have auto-focus and quality issues. I happened to have the opportunity to have some northern flickers close by one afternoon and managed about 200 shots. My issue is that the all shats were taken @f8 and ISO 320, but the “faster shots” are less sharp than the “slower” shots. I have shots at 1/500th and 1/640th and they are considerably softer than shots that were taken at 1/125.
    I have lost confidence in the gear, can you provide any advice/suggestion as to why the slower shots are sharper? It is not supposed to be that way, right?


  51. 51) Stefan
    January 8, 2012 at 2:11 am

    Hi Nasim,
    I have the following problem with my D7000 (one of the first samples / Nov. 2010):
    After some time the AF is “locked”. So, it remains in the last position and does not move any more. Pressing the button (to make photos) has no effect on the AF. The only solution is to turn the D7000 off and on again. Sometimes it helps to move the focus ring. I use the DX 17-55 2.8 together with my D7000.
    I sent the camera and the lens for repair to the Nikon Service Point (in Germany). Let’s see…
    But generally you are right. If the D7000 works it is a very good camera for the price. I use it with the following lenses:
    – DX 17-55 2.8
    – 70-200 2.8 VRII (+ TC-17II)
    – DX 35 1.8
    Especially the 70-200 together with the teleconverter is able to produce outstanding results!

    • 51.1) Andrei
      January 8, 2012 at 5:11 am

      Hi Stefan,

      I had a similar problem with my D40. Usually it helps to rotate a lens a little bit without unlocking. It seems to be a contact problem.


    • January 9, 2012 at 3:17 pm

      Stefan, Andrei’s suggestion below works 99% of the time – it has to do with lens contacts. Either dismount and remount the lens, or simply rotate it a little so that the contacts are connected again. You might need to clean your lens contacts to prevent this from happening again…

      • 51.2.1) Stefan
        January 13, 2012 at 5:49 am

        Hi Nasim,
        Thanks. Today I got the information from Nikon that they replace the following parts on my D7000:
        1K684-395-1 – HOLDER
        1K220-396 – SPRING
        1K632-204-1 – PIN
        What does this mean?

        • Andrei
          January 15, 2012 at 1:41 am

          This mean that it was a contact problem. May be a spring was not strong enough.

          • Stefan
            January 31, 2012 at 1:19 pm

            They also replaced the “HORIZONTAL LEVER”. The repair took more than 3 weeks, because they had to order the parts from Japan. Now, the next time will show if my D7000 works fine now!

  52. 52) Paul
    January 8, 2012 at 3:45 pm

    Hi Nasim,

    I own a D7000 and now I am trying to upgrade to a faster glass. Would you recommend pairing it with a 70-200mm /F2.8 Vr II lense?

    Thanks in advance

    • 52.1) Axel
      January 9, 2012 at 1:19 am


      let me offer you my advice out of own experience (I had both, VRI and VRII versions).

      As long as you do not intend to move to FX format any time soon, there is little good reason to spend the additional money for the VRII version. The “old” VRI has some weakness at the long end which is very visible on FX but not on DX format. On top, the new version exhibits strong focus breathing which at close distances reduces the max focal length to appr. 135mm. May not be an issue but annoying if you only find out later. On the other side, the VRII version has the more efficient VR system which may help shooting handhold.

      All in all……think twice before putting the additional cash for the VRII on the table.


      • 52.1.1) Paul
        January 9, 2012 at 1:34 am

        Thanks very much for your advice

        Regards from Australia

  53. 53) Prasanna
    January 9, 2012 at 8:22 am

    Hi Nasim,
    I don’t agree with the following statement ….[ The good news is that this exposure issue is not severe and you can either fix it later in post-processing, or you can use the exposure compensation button to take care of the problem. Dialing +0.7 or -.0.7 EV in those situations took care of the problem.] We are paying good money expecting a quality camera. Such issues would make amateurs like me think twice about buying it. We don’t do any post processing.

    • January 9, 2012 at 3:15 pm

      Prasanna, exposure compensation is dialed on the camera – and you only need to do it if a scene overexposes or underexposes.

      If you don’t do any post-processing now, then you should be. Otherwise, get a simple camera like the Nikon D5100 instead.

      • 53.1.1) Jason
        January 9, 2012 at 5:06 pm

        Hi Guys,

        Just a suggestion. Try shooting in AE Bracketing mode (set @ 3F). This way you don’t have to keep adjusting epsosure compensation and keep guessing if the output would be over exposed or not. With bracketing, you’ll get 3 shots, for example: AE Bracketing +/- 0.3 EV @ 3F, release mode on CH (continuous high), you will have 3 resulting shots, one @ +0.3EV, one @ 0EV & one @ -0.3EV. You always have 3 shots to choose from.

        I always shoot AE bracket especially in sunny days. WB bracketing in indoor challenging ligthing.



      • 53.1.2) Prasanna
        January 11, 2012 at 11:39 am

        Thanks for your reply. I sometimes use my 3100 with the wonderful 35mm f/1.8 . I need your help with the following issue:
        If the light is a little low indoors, the camera takes a little while longer to gain auto focus (noticed this when shooting with and without flash). In such situations, would a D7000 focus faster? Curiously, I have not noticed this problem when shooting in the night outdoors with flash.My second question is under the same dim conditions would a D90 or a D7000 focus faster? I’m assuming that it is D7000 becasue of it’s better ISO range. I’m trying to decide netween the D90 and D7000. My other lenses are the 18-55mm kit lens and the new DX 55-300 VR zoom.
        Have a great year ahead !


  54. 54) Wayne
    January 10, 2012 at 8:14 pm


    Totally agree with your comments. I have been using the D300S (that is what I had during the Boulder Kelby Walk) and have been using the D7000 as a back up/travel camera. During a recent trip to So. California, I stopped at a nature center and gave the D7000 a real workout trying to capture birds in flight (and even underwater). The D7000 did an excellent job of focusing on the birds, the extra resolution was essential as I only had the 18-200 with me, and had no issues with back/front focus (of course, I used the micro adjust on the lenses before venturing out). I did adjust two lenses for front focus, the 35mm f1.8 and the 16-85mm f3.5-5.6. My 120-400 OS HSM sigma focusing fine too (as do my other Nikon lenses). Will be using it to take ice shots next week. So far, so good, and it may become my primary go to camera and the D300S will be used only when the conditions are marginal.


  55. 55) Chris
    January 11, 2012 at 11:50 am

    This is totally off topic but was hoping somebody knows. My three month old D5100 all of a sudden has a thin bright green vertical line running from the top to the bottom of the screen about an inch from the left side of the screen. It’s there when I shoot and when I review pics. Is this a line of bad pixels? If so I assume it needs to go to Nikon for work?
    Happy New Year all!

    • 55.1) Andrei
      January 11, 2012 at 2:22 pm

      Probably it’s a dead pixel and your sensor should be remaped. Usually this should be done by Nikon service.

    • 55.2) gfinlayson
      January 13, 2012 at 3:28 am

      If ithe line isn’t showing up on any images when viewed on a computer or printed, then it’s purely related to the rear LCD. It’still under warranty, so I’d get it back to Nikon for repair. LCD repairs are usually done very quickly.

    • 55.3) Chris
      January 14, 2012 at 6:41 pm

      Thanks so much. This site and you people rock!

  56. 56) Mani
    January 13, 2012 at 8:08 am

    Hi Nasim,

    I have a another quick question for you or all the other gr8 photographer, i have a nikon D7000 for about a year and as far i know or noticed, i don’t have any kind of issue with my camera such as focous issue most of people talk about. i just want to know your view about upgrading the firmware, i came to know bout nikon D7000 firmware upgrade from one of your post, so i am just wondering if i should upgrade my firmware. i’ll really appreciate any feedback from you or all the readers. As usual love your work.


    • 56.1) Axel
      January 13, 2012 at 9:29 am

      Hi Mani,

      Do the upgrade. This way, you can be sure that known issues are fixed in your camera. Follow the instructions on the Nikon website and make sure your battery is loaded when installing the new firmware. The process only takes a minute or so but it would be pretty catastrophic if your battery goes dead exactly then.


      • 56.1.1) gfinlayson
        January 14, 2012 at 7:47 am

        The battery won’t go dead during a firmware upgrade – if there isn’t enough charge left in it to start with, the D7000 won’t let you upgrade the firmware. It’s an in-built safety feature.

      • 56.1.2) Mani
        February 1, 2012 at 12:13 am

        Hi Nasim,

        Thanks Axel and gfinlayson for your suggestion, i updated my firmware successfuly and it took only few minutes and had no trouble doing so.
        Now the thing is may be i am looking at my images with microscopic eyes or i have read so many things about D7000 focous issue that i started to feel/believe that am experiencing the same issue as well like few other people. Is that possible i might get focus problem after firmware upgrade ?????
        Honestly i am kind of confused and not very happy with my results.
        i tried on 50mm f/1.8 , 105mm f/2.8 macro and 18-105 f/3.5 at various apr.

        • Axel
          February 1, 2012 at 8:50 am

          Hi Mani,

          Nope, the firmware only provides updates to the behaviour of the camera’s electronics so I would rule that out as a root cause.

          The D7000 is a non-forgiving camera due to it’s high pixel density, so any camera shake or movement of the camera (e.g. when you press the shutter) will potentially result in reduced sharpness. Are you saying you do NOT see that sharpness issue with images you took BEFORE the firmware update?


  57. January 14, 2012 at 9:38 am

    Mr. Nasim, I have decided To Sell My Nikon D5100 and get the D7000. I know they both have the same sensor…! But a friend of mine has given me a nikon 24-120mm ( non-VR version) which doesn’t aufocus on the D5100…!

    Plus i think its time that i move into a semi-professional body with better auto focusing, more buttons and more custom functions…! a friend of mine owns a D7000 and he said he has never had any issues with him camera….! except the over exposing issue!!

  58. 58) Lisa
    January 14, 2012 at 1:10 pm

    Hey!! I’m fairly new to all this business but looking into upgrading my D90 to a D7000- I currently have Nikon 18-105 lens (came with) and Nikon 70-300… When upgrading, I’m looking into the Nikon 35mm f/1.8 and the Nikon 70-200 F2.8. I have twin boys (age 13) both in outside, fast sports…and we’re also going to Germany in a few months so I’m thinking about taking the two later lenses with me. Any advice or better combinations would so greatly be appreciated!!

    • 58.1) Stefan
      January 31, 2012 at 1:38 pm

      Hi Lisa,
      I own a D7000 and the lenses you mentioned. Together with the 70-200 2.8 VRII you will get excellent results. For fast action and / or indoor sports this combination is perfect. Optical performance is great(!!!) even at F2.8 and you can use it also on FX cameras later.
      The 35 1.8 DX is a good value for the money. It has a good resolution, but sometimes it shows too much color fringe on high contrast edges. If you use it in dark light situations at F1.8-F2 you will get great results. Also, daylight photos are good, but sometimes the color fringes are too much.
      The third lens I own is the 17-55 2.8 DX. It’s not bad, but expensive and heavy. If you need a zoom think about the Nikon 16-85 or the Sigma 17-70 2.8-4, which is not bad. I used it with a Canon 400D before I changed to a semi-pro Nikon equipment.

      • 58.1.1) Lisa
        January 31, 2012 at 1:42 pm

        Thank you Stefan!!

    • 58.2) gfinlayson
      February 1, 2012 at 2:25 am

      Hi Lisa,

      The 70-200 is a superb lens. It is a big lens too, so factor in buying a monopod for support. If you’re budget conscious, a used 70-200 VRI is a good choice. The VRII is sharper in the corners, but you don’t see those with a DX sensor. The 35 f-1.8 is a good lens too – small, light and fast.

      If you’re after a fast mid-zoom, Nikon’s 17-55 is very pricey. Tamron’s 17-50 f/2.8 non-IS version is a great used bargain. Optically stellar and well made, not quite up to the tank-like build of the Nikon, but very good. Avoid, the newer IS version, the optics aren’t on a par with the older version.



  59. 59) Cuong
    January 16, 2012 at 5:57 am

    Hi Nasim,

    I’m a D7000 owner myself but my images don’t look as good as yours. I think that is because I don’t post process it enough. Are the images in this post processed or just out of camera. Can you show us how you processed these images and the before/after.

    Thank you.

  60. 60) Sunil
    January 22, 2012 at 8:13 am

    Hello Nasim!
    Great review as always.

    I have a Nikon D40 & now want to go semi-pro. I’m thinking about Nikon D7000.
    My main focus will be on landscape photography (mountains only, no seascapes).
    Out of the following, what do you suggest for serious landscape work.

    Nikon D7000 +

    1. Nikkor 16-35 f/4
    2. Nikkor 12-24 f/4
    3. Nikkor 16-85
    4. Nikkor 10-24 ?

  61. 61) Glen
    January 31, 2012 at 5:30 pm

    Well, here we are January 31, 2012 and no Nikon D7000’s available anywhere. No, not one! What’s a guy to do?

    • 61.1) Carole Hawkins
      February 6, 2012 at 12:41 pm

      I’m so sorry, Glen. When I was considering buying a D7000, I was told that there would be a production problem. Initially, I thought it was just a sales pitch but decided to go with my gut and buy it on the spot.

      I don’t know how long the production issues will last, but, for your sake, I hope it won’t be long. It’s really a great camera.

  62. 62) Carole Hawkins
    February 6, 2012 at 12:34 pm

    Mr. Mansurov, the photos on this page are breathtakingly beautiful! Since I also have a Nikon D7000, I’d like to know what your picture control was set to. My guess is “vivid.” That setting, for me, produces some spectacular, pop-off-the-page photos.

    Thank you so much for your tips/helps. My photos have significantly improved in just the few moments that I’ve spent on your site.

  63. 63) Rohit
    February 7, 2012 at 6:44 am

    Thank you Sir for such this effort. I have gained a lot of valuable knowledge from your work. I own a D7000 but am not aware of any focusing problem, i am just a beginner. The only thing i can confirm is that my D7000 wont focus when pointed to say a white wall. It needs something to focus on, the focus just goes in and out and repeats that way but never is able to focus on a plain (single color) surface. Is this normal?? But if i shoot portraits in bright light, i can see every tiny strand of hair or the slightest wrinkle on the subjects face in my pics. I have not tried shooting in low light much though. Thank you

  64. 64) Rohit
    February 7, 2012 at 6:44 am

    Thank you Sir for the effort. I have gained a lot of valuable knowledge from your work. I own a D7000 but am not aware of any focusing problem, i am just a beginner. The only thing i can confirm is that my D7000 wont focus when pointed to say a white wall. It needs something to focus on, the focus just goes in and out and repeats that way but never is able to focus on a plain (single color) surface. Is this normal?? But if i shoot portraits in bright light, i can see every tiny strand of hair or the slightest wrinkle on the subjects face in my pics. I have not tried shooting in low light much though. Thank you

  65. 65) Daniel
    February 11, 2012 at 7:48 pm

    I bought the D7000 a few months ago and I did suffer from severe front/back focusing issues on all my lenses. Not even kit/super zoom lenses, I have tried all my lenses from the 50mm 1.8G to the 70-200 VR II, all of their focus was too off to be fixed by the in camera AF fine tune.
    As a result, I took my D7000 to Nikon’s authorized service center and they did a 5 minute caliberation for free of charge and now all my AF have been spot on, finally giving me tack sharp images.

  66. 66) Alex
    February 20, 2012 at 4:22 am

    hello! i got one: how long could you hold the shutter open, in a bright summer day, at say, ISO100, without ND, before sensor damage occurs?


  67. 67) jason
    February 21, 2012 at 6:40 pm

    i had to send in my D7000 for Err Message (shutter stuck, i think), and it is on the way back to be now.
    do you think it will happen again?

  68. 68) Diane
    February 23, 2012 at 10:47 pm

    Maybe this is similar to Jason issue. Also got the err message with shutter failure.

    Major issue this evening with my year old d7000. The mirror locked during taking a photo. I released by using the shutter release a second time. It occurred again. Turned the camera on/off. Battery in/out. Lens on/off. Setting…. problem continued each time, with a bar appearing in the image. And then it feels like it is broken. The mirror raises and lowers. Nothing else. No image.
    Can’t find anything similar to this.
    Any hope?

  69. 69) MB
    February 26, 2012 at 3:59 pm

    I am MB and I am an D7000 owner. I am one of those unlucky guys who purchased D7000 with an AF issue (it would not AF precisely at all) but that was easily fixed in a day at Nikon service center. This maybe an issue with QC but I use Nikon gear for decades and I now that it is an extremely rare thing.
    I also know couple of guys complaining about AF and what they are forrgeting is that D7000 has an extremely clear and sharp sensor so even a slightest vibration or some other issue could cause the image not to be dead on.
    There is one thing I noticed some people do when testing AF. They use tripod and do the test shots but forget to cover the viewfinder. Light entering through the viewfinder interferes not only with metering sensor but also with AF. Covering viewfinder (and using lens hood) is a must.

  70. 70) Ryan
    March 10, 2012 at 10:53 am

    This is an excellent website, keep up the fantastic work :-)

  71. 71) gana
    March 25, 2012 at 11:35 pm

    d 7000+18-200mm vr or 28+300mm vr lens?

  72. March 26, 2012 at 12:00 am

    gana! go for 28-300mm! all-in-one lens!

    i have one! robust design! cool pix result!

  73. 73) Frank Reynolds
    March 29, 2012 at 4:22 am

    Hi all I have the D7000 as a back up for my D700 and I am just getting to use it.
    I have a bundle of Nikor lenses which I use with the FX camera and successfully with the DX D7000 – with the exception of one – the 16mm 2.8 Fisheye which is a bit tight when fitting to the D7000 and defaults to “FEE” as shown on the control panel i.e. It does not work !!!

    Any ideas anybody?

    • 73.1) gfinlayson
      March 29, 2012 at 4:15 pm

      Have you set the aperture on the lens to f/22 and engaged the aperture locking switch?

  74. 74) Richie
    April 7, 2012 at 4:16 am

    I’ve had my D7000 and 60mm AFS Micro lens for about a year now and both have performed flawlessly. I’m very happy with the combo. It’s fun looking at all the new high-end gear like the D4/D800 and 1DX/5D3, but I think it’s going to be a long time before I’ll be able to say that I need to upgrade due to my gear being the limiting factor in my photography. This site is a fairly new find for me. Lots of interesting articles. Keep up the good work!


  75. 75) shoreline view
    April 7, 2012 at 11:39 pm

    I had two D7000 bodies in for repair for the same AF problems. Both were back focusing strongly under incandescent light while producing generally accurate results in daylight. Nikon’s solution to this problem is to adjust the mirror angle (the receptor mirror that channels light into the AF sensor). I assume an out-of-angle mirror gets the various colors of light focused properly at only one color temperature setting, while an in-angle mirror gets it right under all color temperature conditions. And at least on the first body it works. I’ll check the second one as soon as I can, but there don’t seem to be any serious problems there either whereas there certainly were before the repair.

    My sense is that there are of a lot of D7000 bodies out there with this problem. Both pros I talked to who own D7000 bodies had the same issue. I think it also explains a lot of the intensity of web forum debates as it’s a problem not seen on other Nikon bodies that’s affecting many D7000 users but not others. Madly frustrating for people with the problem, unimaginable to people without it, and complicated and unintuitive to test for.

  76. 76) KimGlass
    April 9, 2012 at 1:00 pm

    Oh how I wish it were true that it all comes down to user error or sub-par lenses!
    I was one of those that thought they HAD a good copy and it worked just like you describe. It is my third dSLR in 9 years, I have been shooting manually for over 2 now, so I do not consider myself a novice at how dSLRs work.
    When I first received mine, I did extensive lens testing to see how my lenses fared. With the Fine Tune capabilities of this camera I wanted to use it to its full potential. My lenses were pretty much spot on for alignment. Particularly my favorite 17-55mm 2.8 lens. It was neither front nor back focusing at all and only slightly soft shooting between 50-55mm wide open.
    Now come a year +1 month later. I had bought a new Sigma 30mm 1.4 lens (not a super star lens but also not a kit-type either) for Christmas, and also a used 50mm 1.8G to try out. My shots had increasingly not been good for focus, but I chalked it up to being new to the lenses. Finally bit the bullet and invested the time/effort for a full lens/camera alignment test, and low and behold they were WAY back-focusing beyond the capabilities of a Fine Tune, BOTH of them. So then I decided to test out my trusty 17-55mm 2.8 to see how it was faring. It too had slid to the back for focus, although I was able to correct it using the Fine Tune function. So what was once good, now was not. I will send it in to get repaired (keep for a backup and vacation camera) but I have lost faith. I personally know two other photographers who have had issues that eventually Nikon had to fix, and they used pro-level lenses and were proficient manual shooters. Theirs just didn’t last as long as mine.

  77. 77) Dinesh
    April 11, 2012 at 9:58 am

    Hi Nasim, I started off with a D40 and have recently bought a D7000. May be its me but my pictures are not half as good as that of the basic D40. Images are over exposed, they are not sharp and I am getting a black spot in the middle of my picture. I use it typically to shoot wildlife of birds with a 70-300 lens and I have been disappointed so far. Can you help me with what is AF fine tuning and whether that could improve the situation?

  78. 78) Savvy
    April 23, 2012 at 1:29 am

    Hi Nasim,
    first and foremost may I say congrats on a fantastic website. The knowledge you impart freely to others through this medium should be commended. I love the pics throughout your site. Truly an inspiration to others.
    I thought I would tune in with my personal experience with the D7000 (2 of them that is; one I had purchased as body only, and the other was part of an 18-105 Kit). I ask that all see this as my point of view and respect it as such. To those of you who have ended up with a good copy of this SLR, congratulations (and more importantly good luck)
    I purchased the D7000 some 3 weeks ago and have to say that whilst the camera looks great and handles fantastically the Autofocus system IMO was flawed/faulty (on the copies I got).
    I am a Nikon aficionado and I have used (and own) the D70s, D80, D200. I have also used a friend’s D300s for a period of time and with all of these cameras my existing lenses are spot on for focusing. I have no issue with any of my lenses and/or camera bodies with regards to autofocusing, back/front focusing, etc … (and that’s shooting with lenses like my Tamron 17-50 f/2.8, Nikon 35 f/1.8 G, Nikon 50 f/1.8 G, Nikon 80-200 AFD ED all wide open). Now I could go into the modes used here, etc, etc but it has all been mentioned before needless to say if I have it worked out for the camera’s I mentioned then things should really work no differently for the same modes within the D7000? Correct me if I am wrong here?
    I shot almost 500 shots with my first copy of the D7000, as it took me that long to finally give in and realise there was an issue! (trust me I didn’t want to believe something was wrong), I shot under many different lighting conditions but the autofocus system was hit and miss at best (60% success when shooting wide open, if that), yet I shot side by side with some of the other cameras as mentioned above and my hit (success) rate was those was almost 100% (as expected) with the lenses I have mentioned, and this is all when shooting wide open …. Now I took my camera back and exchanged it with another D7000 (the 18-105 kit this time), and unfortunately the same problem, although I would have to say it performed much worse (consistently worse) than my first copy of the camera!. (Both cameras also tended to overexpose, but a known issue as you mentioned and something I could work with)
    In my opinion, the performance of the AF system was unacceptable. I appreciate the comments people make, like what conditions were you shooting under, what was the subject you were shooting, user error, etc.. but this is all ridiculous when you expect a camera to perform out of the box pretty much most of the time (I mean the other camera’s I have do) … now of course I have only experienced 2 copies of this camera, and in no way am I implying that all have the same problem. Perhaps the batch I came across did, and in this regard I was unlucky. I mean, these bodies were recently only made available to us (as a result of the short supply due to the flooding in Thailand) so I appreciate if they got something wrong here. What is worrying though, is that this issue seems to go back to the very beginning of the camera’s life cycle!
    I appreciate the complexity of the new 39 Point AF Cam 4500DX module in the D7000, but is it so complex that it can’t be relied on for consistent results?
    Now before anyone starts talking about megapixels (yes I have now gone from a D200 10.2 megapixel sensor to the 16.2 megapixel D7000 … more resolution, etc… errors masked at a lower res are now more obvious at 16 megapixels) I have shot with my mates D5100 (same sensor presumably as used in the D7000) and it focuses as expected. Same success rate as my other Nikon SLR’s (as expected of Nikon) Images tack sharp on the focus point as compared to the D7000 at 100% where it was back focusing horribly for the most part to quite a large degree on images taken, and what was worse, no consistency (so much for relying on the fine tune option!).
    Perhaps someone can explain to me, why is it the D5100 (same megapixels) gets it right? No fine tuning required (or present for that matter) yet the D7000 gives the users a ‘fine tune’ option. I hope someone can shed some light on this one? It is a more sophisticated AF system I agree but shouldn’t it focus correctly out of the box with lenses that worked fine on previous Nikon SLR’s? remember I am comparing here to the same res and sensor of the D5100!
    Now what I have also noted is that with lenses that aren’t that wide to begin with, such as the 18-105 kit, or the 16-85 VR, that the depth of field is great enough to the extent that it seems to mask the focusing error somewhat. The 16-85 I own worked fine with the first copy of the D7000 I got.
    I was fortunate to be able to return the copies of the D7000 for a full refund as it was all done early in the piece. I really wanted to get a third copy to try out but in the end I just didn’t have the time to go through it all again, and sending something to Nikon and waiting for an eternity, and fingers crossed, to have the issue resolved was not an option. Now this is just my experience and thoughts

  79. April 23, 2012 at 4:37 am

    need help!

    i have nikon D7000. i turned the knob to SCENE mode then click to SPORT. everything is in AUTO.

    im expecting still shots. apparently photos were blurry.

    what did i missed?

    please help.

    newbie jsprmctngy

  80. 80) rajesh mkrish
    May 13, 2012 at 11:16 pm

    Hi Nasim,

    Love your website and you provide excellent information. Thanks a lot.
    I will be getting a Nikon 400mm f2.8 shortly and plan it to use it on my Nikon D7000 with a 1.4tc. Most of my interest include mammals and perched birds and birds in flight.
    I read about 39 point dynamic auto focus issue while using the D7000 on a super telephoto lens including 400, 500 and 600mm and I’m worried about losing focus while making images of birds in flight.

    Would like to know your thoughts and advice on this.
    Thanks and Regards,

  81. 81) E Ramakanth
    May 14, 2012 at 1:51 am

    I have recently upgraded to Capture NX2. I notice that I have to pre-process the RAW photo’s using the USM option to get a sharp picture. Does this mean that there is an issue with my D7000’s focus?

    Please adivce me, if I have to send the camera to Nikon? Thanks.

    I keenly follow your articles on the web. Thanks for publishing such excellent information.



  82. 82) gfinlayson
    May 16, 2012 at 11:40 am

    RAW photos always look a little soft. The Bayer filter in front of the sensor causes a slight blurring of the image at a micro level, and sharpening has to be applied. JPGs straight from the camera will always have a certain amount of in-camera sharpening applied so will look sharper when compared to a RAW file.

    • 82.1) E Ramakanth
      May 17, 2012 at 4:00 am

      Thanks for the reply. Will try to take the same shot with both RAW and JPEG, and see the result.

  83. 83) Naftoli
    May 16, 2012 at 12:00 pm

    Hello Nassim! first of all u have an amazing site i just found it about a week ago and have spent many hours browsing through the various photography articles, i am a pro photographer i own the d7000 plus a bunch of lenses including 70-200vr2, 24-120 f4, a 50mm, 35mm, 10-24, 18-200 vr2, i had my camera sent in twice for backfocusing and it still wasnt fixed, the first time i brought it to an authorized nikon repair center who sent it to nikon (they said they wernt authorized to work on the d7000), i went back 2 weeks later to pick it up, while in the store i tested it and it was obviously still backfocusing i took a shot of the guy working there at 1/200 f4, iso200 with popup flash and his eyes and catchlights were bokeh and his ears tack sharp he took the camera from me and tried the same test a few times and agreed with me, the second time i got it back it seemed pretty good in the store but when tested on a focus chart (on a tripod, single point focus, 1/200 of a sec, flash, tethered) there is still obvious backfocus of about -10, i also have a friend that got a d7000 he shot with it for awhile without being the wiser as he is an amateur, when i tested and it, it backfocused obviously too, as of now i have given up on sending it in again and i just use the micro adjustment, btw i recently did a photoshoot with the d800, i shot most of it at about 200mm f2.8-f4, the photos were tack sharp on the eyes so its not the lenses that r backfocusing, i have spent hours upon hours researching this issue online trying to find an answer and trying to guage how common this problem actually is, i agree it is prob true that maybe 8 out of 10 cases have blurry photos due to user technique, just b/c they dont know how to use there focus doesnt mean they dont have a backfocus problem anyway, btw what lens did u use for those wide shots? was it a 10-24?

    • 83.1) Savvy
      May 16, 2012 at 3:24 pm

      I hear you brother! Read my post at 149. I think this is a bigger issue that Nikon and its representatives want us to believe … I feel sorry for those who have a legitimate problem and are convinced by others its their technique.

  84. 84) naftoli
    May 17, 2012 at 4:25 pm

    just a few things i also wanted to mention, the d7000 does not have a lightmeter panel on the top lcd like the d300 and others have, for the manual shooter not having this meter can be annoying, also there is no pc port so if u want to have on camera flash with strobes as well u have to buy a pc port hotshoe adapter, and one more thing i wish the d7000 had the option of setting the center multiselectior button to zoom in to 1/1 during preview for a quick sharpness check.

  85. 85) Roy
    May 30, 2012 at 9:40 am

    The D7000’s AF accuracy and consistency are driving me nuts. I doubt that user error is the reason behind the majority of complaints. The D7000 is after all a semi-professional camera and most users surely understand how to use the focus points, calculation of depth of field and how to conduct a “focus” experiment with the proper control necessary for any experiment. I’ve tested my Nikon 35mm 1.8g, Sigma 30mm 1.4, Sigma 50mm 1.4, Tokina 11-16 on my D7000. I’ve noticed backfocus issues with all my lenses on the D7000. I would focus on the subject but it would not be sharp – instead the background subject is sharp – the background subject is well outside the depth of field. The back focus seems to occur predominately at certain distances from the subject. Close focusing at the minimum focus distance is generally more accurate than focusing from say 0.7m to 1.0m. On top of the back focusing issues, focusing seems to be pretty hit and miss (unacceptably inconsistent). For example one shot will be acceptably sharp and the next identical shot will be blurry. At first I thought that it might be an issue with my lenses. However, I have subsequently tested all of them on my D3100 and they all focus close to perfectly including my two Sigmas. No back focus issues and AF is very consistent shot after shot. I have taken probably more than 1000 shots on my D7000 and my conclusion is that it must be an issue with the camera and not the lenses.

    • 85.1) Savvy
      May 31, 2012 at 3:00 am

      I agree with you Roy. I experienced the same issue. I am looking at full frame options at the moment and contemplating a D700 (prices have dropped quite a bit and i have full frame lenses from my film days I would like to ressurect) or see what Nikon have on the horizon re the D600? … if rumours are true and it houses the same AF 39 point system of the D7000 then I am steering way clear of it. In my books and humble opinion it is flawed by design.

      • 85.1.1) KimGlass
        May 31, 2012 at 4:14 am

        I upgraded to the D700, older technology but proven. I LOVE it!!! It is worth the money. Now I just have to upgrade one of my lenses and I’m good to go. Still have my D7000, but its pretty much not used anymore. For most images…I don’t NEED that many pixels anyway if I am shooting right. And the low light capability of the D700…wow!

  86. 86) Brian Tan
    July 6, 2012 at 4:26 am

    I am an intermediate user with a lot of film experience. I grew up on a fully manual Minolta (still love this camera) but I never purchased a DSLR. I made the jump to the D7000 and I am very happy. Learning to use the D7000 has improved my understanding of all of the extra features on my Canon Powershot S95 (another great camera.)

    Jumping to the bottom line, I love the features. I ultimately selected this model for the dual memory card slots. The programmable user settings give you what amounts to three different manual configurations. The VR lenses are very impressive (I am no longer a skeptic.) I got the camera about a week ago and already have my personal settings configured and one user setting programmed. This may not sound like a big deal but it is when you want to try out the differences and effect of some relatively minor adjustments.

    I agree with a lot of the other reviewers that the camera does seam to overexpose. I find myself going a little below the meter a lot and setting up the bracket for -1EV. I am still experimenting with the video but my first impression is that this camera will never replace my Sony HDR-SR11 but it is nice to be able to toggle back and forth. The auto-focus is clearly audible in playback. The focus tracking works but you will probably turn it off for sensitive recording.

    The pictures are great. I think before going up to 24mp I would look into better glass in front of the sensor.The camera is a little big for my 7 year old but she is still able to use it and make great photos. Exactly what I was looking for.

    buy this camera on Amazon, and you will save $100.

  87. 87) Derek
    July 14, 2012 at 11:48 am

    Hi Nasim,

    I have never heard of Samyang lenses! hmm … Something i might look into.
    Are they any good? What is the quality/sharpness like?


    • 87.1) jasper
      July 14, 2012 at 11:54 pm

      samsyang or tamron or sigma or watever it is-FORGET IT- GO FOR ORIGINAL NIKKOR LENSES. u wont regret it. =))

    • 87.2) jasper
      July 14, 2012 at 11:54 pm

      samyang or tamron or sigma or watever it is-FORGET IT- GO FOR ORIGINAL NIKKOR LENSES. u wont regret it. =))

      • 87.2.1) Derek
        July 15, 2012 at 7:13 am

        That’s helpful!

      • 87.2.2) lee
        July 15, 2012 at 2:13 pm

        If you can afford it Jasper I agree Nikon lenses are generally better but not everyone can and some like Tokina’s 12-28 wide angle stacks really favourable next to Nikon’s equivalent at half the price, check out Ken Rockwells and several other comparison reviews as for the Nikons 105 zoom that comes supplied with the D7000 as a kit it gets a rather poor write up.
        Overall I agree with you Jasper but I as many others have a limited budget, I could afford the £800 I paid for a Sigma 50-500 but £5800 for a 500 f4 Nikon however nice it is is way out of my league.

        • jasper
          July 15, 2012 at 10:17 pm

          oki doki artichokee!

          case-to-case basis: if youre an avid photo enthusiast THEN go for GOLD labels.
          and if yore just a newbie (or watever they called it) go for generic names. =))

          keep sharing nikonians! (D7000)

        • jasper
          July 15, 2012 at 10:22 pm

          oki oki artichokee!

          case-to-case basis LEE: if youre an avid photo enthusiast: go for Nikon gold labels (or not)

          and if your just a newbie: go for generic names.

          keep sharing nikonians! (d7000)

          • lee
            July 16, 2012 at 12:43 pm

            I don’t think of myself as a newbie Jasper but I still cant afford Nikon lens prices :)
            My old man taught me with his old Thornton Pickard and Rollei TLR in the late 60’s and I did OK, but I will never be as good as he was in the darkroom. That said I suppose in terms of digital you are probably right I am a bit of a newbie. Now were’s my samyongsigmatokina mkII Canon dream dustbin lens?

            • jasper
              July 16, 2012 at 9:49 pm

              very well said mr lee, at the end of the day you-yourself-will decide whats good for you. whatever brand pleases you.

              keep sharing nikonians! (D7000)

  88. 88) lee
    July 15, 2012 at 12:24 am

    Hi Nasim
    I bought mine as a pre order so have had it for about as long as its possible to own a D7000.
    Problems of note with the camera (none).
    Problems with lenses (two), both my 18-200VR and sigma 50-500 apo needed fine tuning but that was all
    I think some people are falling into the idea that the D7000 is an upgraded D90 and come unstuck when they try to use it as such. The D7000 is a complicated camera to get optimal performance from. yes you can point and shoot on auto and get good results but these will not be anywhere near what the camera is caperble of.
    I run with a mix of lenses most of which I had on my old D200, as Ive said a Nikon 18-200vr a Sigma 50-500 Apo which is giving suprisingly better result than it did on my D200, a Nikkor 50mm 1.8 , an old Nikkor 55 micro manual lens this works great & and for £80 was a bargin, and a Sigma 12-24 which may not be a Tokina but still is very useriousseri
    The D7000 takes a fair time to get used to but well worth the effort my D200 was the first digital I had but it has taken longer to convert from the D200 to the D7000 than it did from my Mamiya RB67 roll film camera to the digital D200. The D7000 is a serious piece of kit so needs some commitment to get the best from it. What do I like best? Low light ability is superb,battery life also great, dual slots, and once set up the colour balance is bang on, indeed you have so much contol that reproducing those wonderful Kodak Ektachrome’s muted hues or Fujichrome’s vibrant greens are well within this cameras ability.
    I still love this camera after quite a while now apart from 2 things, the high super high ISO’s are a gimmick and produce images all most as poor as a mobile phone and the grip could have been a bit bigger but thats mainly because I have fair size mitts this I cured with the addition of a power winder.

  89. 89) Sazid Khan
    July 25, 2012 at 1:05 am

    I think the AF mode and AF points are also very very important in getting sharp focus on D7000.
    It has to be precisely chosen to get desired results.

  90. 90) Arnel
    July 26, 2012 at 7:21 pm

    Hi Mr. Nasim. I just stumbled on this site while researching about user’s feedback on the Nikon D7000. I am planning to upgrade from my Nikon D90 and join the bandwagon of D7000 users. But these focusing issues have been holding me back to do so. Any update if these issues have been corrected in the recent manufactured units. Need some advise, please. By the way the images you posted here are simply stunning.

  91. 91) Arlene
    July 29, 2012 at 11:03 am

    I have a d90 and have love having it, despite the fact that my first option was a nikon d300s, when i settled for the d90 (budget reasons) I didn’t think i was going to love it, but I do!!! I have drooled over the d7000 since i first saw it!!! I saved over a while and was so happy when i ordered and recieved it!!! It was christmas for me! But i was so dissapointed when i started shooting, I shoot in manual and do get better resulta than on auto or Ap but still is so sad that when i try to take a pic of my kids the eyes are not in focus… I tried diffrent serttings but even on auto my d90 does a better job!! I am so sad and frustarated! Should i return it? Get a refund and wait for the d400 or should i try a replacement?? Or should i keep trying with the settings arg? What to do?

  92. 92) mani
    July 29, 2012 at 1:54 pm

    Hi all
    i also have D7k and i love this camera and it works just fine for me , as i read some people not happy with the D7000 results as they expect and blaming the camerra and regret that they upgraded or choose D7000 and made wrong choice.

    Let me say from my experience i had same doubts about the camea, as when i bought it i was over the moon and i didnt find anything wrong with D7000. But after reading so many people talking about focus issues i started to believe as well.

    And i asked Nasim about it as well, I got a reply from another follower name “Axel”, and he gave me the answer what seems to me as Words of WISDOM. he said

    The D7000 is a non-forgiving camera due to it’s high pixel density, so any camera shake or movement of the camera (e.g. when you press the shutter) will potentially result in reduced sharpness.

    well am not saying that everyone not happy with camera performance is amature but i believe this camera does take us out of our comfort zone but it also rewards you the best possible results.
    once i figure out how to post my pics on nasim website i’ll post some of the pics i took for viewers.

    till then
    clik clik

    • 92.1) Arlene
      July 29, 2012 at 2:04 pm

      I have tried using fast shutter speeds and a tripod but i still have issues, plus i dodnt want to be using a tripod everytime i go out for a shoot! How can i figure if its really me or if its the camera before my 30 day!?

  93. 93) luxor1
    March 22, 2015 at 6:57 am

    I was professional photographer and so I can pretend have the basics needed to use a reflex. recently I used a Nikon D90 infrared and a D7000, including for macrophotography, astrophotography and time-lapsing in temperature ranginf rom -10°C to 35°C, including in wet condition (99% humidity). I have not encountered the slightest issue with these DSLR. The D7000 remains a fantastic model.

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