Nikon D600 vs D7000

In this article, I will show feature differences between the new full-frame Nikon D600 (FX) and the older cropped sensor Nikon D7000 (DX). I have received a number of requests from our readers asking me to provide this comparison, since many photographers are considering to move to the Nikon D600 from their D7000 cameras. Please keep in mind that this Nikon D600 vs D7000 comparison is purely based on specifications. A detailed comparison with image samples and ISO comparisons is provided in the Nikon D600 Review.

Nikon D600 vs D7000

As I have already pointed out in other articles, the Nikon D600 is a lot like the D7000 in terms of features and camera build. However, the sensor size difference is huge (read on FX vs DX), which makes it almost meaningless to compare the features alone without comparing image quality between the two cameras. I have the D7000 to compare the D600 with and these sensor comparisons will be provided in the D600 review (in fact, I wrote this article as a pre-requisite to the D600 Review). Let’s take a look at how the two cameras stack up against each other in terms of specifications.

Nikon D600 vs D7000 Specification Comparison

Camera FeatureNikon D600Nikon D7000
Sensor Resolution24.3 Million16.1 Million
Sensor Size35.9×24.0mm23.6×15.6mm
Sensor Pixel Size5.96µ4.78µ
Dust Reduction / Sensor CleaningYesYes
Image Size6,016 x 4,0164,928 x 3,264
Image ProcessorEXPEED 3EXPEED 2
Viewfinder TypePentaprismPentaprism
Viewfinder Coverage100%100%
Built-in FlashYes, with flash commander modeYes, with flash commander mode
Flash Sync Speed1/2001/250
Storage Media2x SD2x SD
Continuous Shooting Speed5.5 FPS6 FPS
Max Shutter Speed1/4000 to 30 sec1/8000 to 30 sec
Shutter Durability150,000 cycles150,000 cycles
Exposure Metering Sensor2,016-pixel RGB sensor 3D Color Matrix Metering II2,016-pixel RGB sensor 3D Color Matrix Metering II
Base ISOISO 100ISO 100
Native ISO SensitivityISO 100-6,400ISO 100-6,400
Boosted ISO SensitivityISO 50, ISO 12,800-25,600ISO 12,800-25,600
Autofocus SystemMulti-CAM 4800FXMulti-CAM 4800DX
AF DetectionUp to f/8 (center 7 AF points only)Up to f/5.6
Video CapabilityYesYes
Video OutputMOV, Compressed and UncompressedMOV, Compressed
Video Maximum Record Time20 min in 24p, 30 min in 30p20 min in 24p, 30 min in 30p
Video Maximum Resolution1920×1080 (1080p) @ 24p, 25p, 30p1920×1080 (1080p) @ 24p
Audio RecordingBuilt-in microphone
External stereo microphone (optional)
Built-in microphone
External stereo microphone (optional)
LCD Size3.2″ diagonal TFT-LCD3.0″ diagonal TFT-LCD
LCD Resolution921,000 dots921,000 dots
HDR SupportYesNo
Built-in GPSNoNo
Wi-Fi FunctionalityEye-Fi Compatible, WU-1B, UT-1Eye-Fi Compatible
BatteryEN-EL15 Lithium-ion BatteryEN-EL15 Lithium-ion Battery
Battery Life900 shots (CIPA)1,050 shots (CIPA)
Battery ChargerMH-25 Quick ChargerMH-25 Quick Charger
Weather Sealed BodyYesYes
USB Version2.02.0
Weight (Body Only)26.8 oz. (760g)24.3 oz. (690)
Dimensions141 x 113 x 82mm132 x 103 x 77mm
MSRP Price$2,099 (as introduced)$1,199 (as introduced)

Considering the fact that the sensor area of the Nikon D600 is more than twice larger and the pixel size is larger, the Nikon D600 will outperform the Nikon D7000 at pixel level. What this means is that if you look at images from both cameras at 100% view, the Nikon D600 will have less noise, especially at higher ISOs. Unfortunately for the D7000, it does not stop there. Since the Nikon D600 has more megapixels (24.3 MP vs 16.1 MP), the true advantage of the D600 sensor will be seen when images are down-sampled to 16.1 MP. You will not only see less noise at all ISOs, but images will also appear sharper as a result of the down-sampling process. If you do not know what the word “down-sampling” means, see my “benefits of a high resolution sensor” article, along with “how to properly downsample images in Lightroom” and “how to properly downsample images in Photoshop“.

Another key difference between the two is the viewfinder size. The full frame sensor on the D600 requires a much larger mirror and pentaprism, which means that the viewfinder on the D600 is much bigger than the one on the D7000. The difference is huge in comparison – for me, the main reason why I never looked back at DX after switching to FX. One of the major concerns from our readers has been the spread of the autofocus points inside the viewfinder. True, the autofocus points on the D600 are tightly squeezed in a much smaller area compared to the D7000 – that’s a given, since the viewfinder is so much bigger. If you compare the D300s to the D700/D800, the difference is very similar. However, if you compare any full-frame Nikon to the D600, you will see that the AF area is actually not much smaller in comparison. Take a look at the Nikon D600 viewfinder compared to the D800 (taken from the Nikon D600 Review):

Nikon D600 vs D800 Viewfinder

As you can see, the difference in AF area coverage is not as bad as some think when compared to other Nikon full-frame cameras. If you are upgrading from the D7000, however, you will surely notice the difference between the two. If you are used to composing your images with far left/right focus points, then you will have to learn the “focus and recompose” technique, something many DX shooters have to learn when upgrading to FX. Furthermore, the AF system on the D600 is clearly better than on the D7000. Despite the fact that the two cameras share a similar AF system, the one on the D600 is definitely improved. It is easier to focus with in low-light environments and it seems to be faster than the D7000 for capturing fast-moving subjects (detailed testing is underway). I am planning to take the D600 to Bosque Del Apache later this year to see how it performs for photographing birds in flight (I am doing some bird photography locally before then). I will be comparing it to the Nikon D3s and I will make notes of the AF performance and accuracy for those environments.

As for other feature differences, the Nikon D600 is limited to 1/4000 shutter speed and is capped at 1/200 in terms of flash sync speed. These two limitations are not a big deal for most people, as explained in my “Nikon D600 Limitations” article.

Stay tuned, more interesting info is coming soon!


  1. 1) Nawaz SP
    October 1, 2012 at 10:59 pm

    Thanks Nasim, that was very helpful and also help to reassure with regard to the AF area coverage. Looking forward for the full review.

    • October 1, 2012 at 11:19 pm

      Nawaz, the review is taking me much longer than I thought…too many questions that need to be answered, thanks to the Nikon D600 is here post!

      • 1.1.1) Nawaz SP
        October 1, 2012 at 11:26 pm

        I’ve build few prime lens over the year, I think i will go forward with the purchase this week. is there anything of concern so far in your test

      • 1.1.2) Flem
        October 5, 2012 at 3:57 pm

        So where is this review?

  2. 2) Tam Nguyen Photography
    October 1, 2012 at 11:07 pm

    Hmmm. I think there’s a typo. The base ISO for the D7000 is 100, no?

    • October 1, 2012 at 11:14 pm

      Yes, not sure how I let that slip through. I put the native ISO range correctly, but forgot to change the base ISO value (the table was a copy-paste from D600 vs D700 comparison). Thanks for letting me know!

    • 2.2) TimR
      October 1, 2012 at 11:38 pm

      yes you are correct its base 100 on the D700o also

  3. 3) Jason
    October 1, 2012 at 11:13 pm

    Hi Nasim.

    Just to clarify on the ISO comparison, I think you have made an error in the BASE ISO’s, as both D600 and D7000 have ISO 100, another thing, I am a D7000 user and I have never used an ISO50, I wish I know how, can you please teach me how as the D7000 manual does not say how to set the D7000 at ISO50. Thanks

    • October 1, 2012 at 11:18 pm

      Jason, please see my response to Tam above – that was a typo :)

      As for ISO 50, when you lower your ISO, you will see L1.0 as the last selection – that’s ISO 50! Keep in mind that it is a “boosted” ISO though, meaning that the ISO is made possible via software than the “native” sensor capability.

      • 3.1.1) Jason
        October 2, 2012 at 12:25 am

        Hi Nasim, thanks for that, but what I meant about lowering the ISO to 50 was with my D7000, I am holding my D7000 now and still couldn’t figure out how to set it at L1.0 which you mean is ISO50? Please advice, thanks.

        • Profile photo of Nasim Mansurov Nasim Mansurov
          October 2, 2012 at 10:05 am

          Jason, another reason why I should not be writing at 2 AM in the morning. Just checked the D7000 sample that I have and it does not have the L1.0 option. I am very sorry for confusion. Since base ISO on the D7000 is 100, I thought it provides L0.3, L0.7 and L1.0 options like other Nikon DSLRs. I was wrong. I will correct the article to reflect this. I apologize for the bad communication here…totally my fault!

          • Jason
            October 23, 2012 at 2:04 pm

            Hi Nasim,

            No fault really on your side, it was just clearly an overlooked feature. Everybody overlook things especially ME! I sometimes forget where I my sunglasses are but all the while it was just sitting on my head!!! LOL I’m glad the D7000 has no ISO50, gives me reason now to convince my wife that I need to get the D600!!!! Yahoo!!!!! Thanks Nasim!

            Always your avid fan,


      • 3.1.2) Jason
        October 2, 2012 at 12:54 am

        Hi Nasim,

        I have searched all through Google and Wikipedia and the D7000 only has capability up to ISO100. If you know how to set it at ISO50 please kindly advice as I am keen to see what an ISO50 image would look on my D7000. I would like to try some slow shutter exposures at the Auckland North Shore bridge tonight. Thanks!

        Kind regards,


      • 3.1.3) Francesco
        October 2, 2012 at 3:43 am

        Hi Nasim,
        I own a D7000 and there is no Lo-1 option.

  4. 4) Dr.S Mandal
    October 1, 2012 at 11:25 pm

    Thanks Nasim… main concern regarding D600 has been it’s AF area coverage….now its clear. I’m very much confused between D600 & D8oo (at present I’m using D90 & D7000 ). I prefer hand held shooting specially in low lights. which one would be better for me ? If I go for D600 which standard zoom lens would best serve my purpose ( at present I’m using Nikkor 16-85 VR , Nikkor 24mm 2.8D , Nikkor 50mm 1.4D ). Frankly speaking I’m eagerly waiting for your in depth review of D600 before I order one.

    • 4.1) Martin G
      October 2, 2012 at 1:33 am

      I am a happy D800 user. I do often hand hold the 70-200 2.8 VRII and find the 16-35 F4 easy to hand hold. I use a Gitzo Monopod if I use the TC20e III with the telephoto or the light is low. I have changed the way I take pictures completely for the D 800. The 16-35 F4 is very good on the D800 and has very good VR.
      Although you will have fewer issues with wide angle lenses, my advice would be to get the 600 if you like to hand hold all the time. I would put the savings into FX lenses.
      There is little point going to the D800 or 600, unless you update your full frame lenses. I am sure you will find that as the resolution goes up so does the need for better quality glass. I used to own the 16-85mm DX, it is a very fine lens but not useful on FX cameras.

      • 4.1.1) Dr.S Mandal
        October 2, 2012 at 5:20 am

        Thanks Martin for your suggestion. I have also kept 16-35 F4 in my mind but I want to purchase a good standard zoom first….. 24-70 2.8 was my initial choice…..but I don’t feel comfortable without VR….is there any other choice with VR…….What about 24-120 F4 VR in practical field ? there is not adequate sample shot in Flickr !!

        • Profile photo of Nasim Mansurov Nasim Mansurov
          October 2, 2012 at 1:10 pm

          The Nikon 24-120mm f/4 VR is a superb lens for the D600. I love it!

          • Dr.S Mandal
            October 3, 2012 at 7:01 am

            Thanks Mansurov for your reply. Just today I came to know about Tamron SP 24-70 2.8 VC (I have gone through your review also) ….which one would be your pick for D600……Nikon 24-120 f4 VR , Nikon 24-70 f2.8 non VR, Tamron SP 24- 70 f2.8 VC (if I ignore the price difference) ? I will be obliged if you please spend few moments to reply this post.

  5. 5) JR
    October 2, 2012 at 12:01 am

    Hi Nasim,

    I shot with both bodies this weekend(San Juan Mountains), each with a corresponding battery grip and one obvious difference is that the D600 is considerably larger and heavier; almost as large as the EOS 1D!

    The focusing points spread is certainly an issue and another negative against the D600.

    However, the D600 out resolves the D7000, managing to capture detail I could only manage with a 6×7 film camera. Basically, I treated the D600 as if though I were shooting MF.

    I have a ton of images to upload to my computer and will post some samples when they’re ready.

    Good ‘nite!


    • October 2, 2012 at 1:08 pm

      JR, yes, the D600 is larger for sure ! Focus spread is not an issue for me, since I rely on the center AF point 90% of the time. I would not treat the D600 as a MF camera in terms of resolution, but its dynamic range and colors are indeed very impressive. Nikon used one hell of a sensor on the D600!

      I will also post some images later this week from San Juans. I should have stayed there for a couple of more days, since the place was too hazy and mountains did not have any snow on them. It started snowing the day we left. Do you know if the colors are still looking good there? I might head out once again this weekend…

  6. 6) William Jones
    October 2, 2012 at 12:38 am

    Nasim, would request you test the D600 the following way please:
    Using AF-C, single point, and shooting in CH release mode, try to take pics of a subject moving either directly towards or away from you. If possible, shoot this with similar AF and AF-S lenses (say the 80-200 compared to the 70-200). Shoot continuous bursts of 15 to 16 shots (I normally shoot in 14-bit NEF, so am used to that range). Shutter speed should be at least 1/1,250 and no more than 1/2,000. If you have the time, shoot also in 9D, 21D, 39D, 3-D and Auto.

    My experience with the D600 for these types of shots (with dogs and horses as subjcts) is that using AF lenses (80-400 and 80-200) reduces my hit (in focus) rate. The hit rate was between 1/3rd to 1/4th. With a lower rate on the 80-400 at further distances (300 to 400mm range). Using the AF-S 28-300 lens gave me a better hit rate, however the quality of that lens is not the best (don’t currently own a 70-200 AF-S).

    I then switched to Single release mode, and my hit rate improved with all lenses (AF & AF-S), however that does mean having to push the shutter release a bunch of times, instead of holding it down. I also noticed that Auto mode gave me problems, hesitating as to which subject to focus on, resulting in missed shots. In addition, the 3-D mode gave me problems, as the focus point would “jump” all over the target, picking different parts of the body. My best hit rate seems to be using no more that 21D.

    Would be interested in how the D600 performs with the 300 f/4, both with and without a TC-14.

    Thank you,

    • October 2, 2012 at 1:06 pm

      William, will give it a try when shooting birds this week with long lenses. I will take both D3s and D600 with me and make note of AF differences.

      • 6.1.1) William Jones
        October 2, 2012 at 2:10 pm

        Thank you sir.

        For anyone interested, I have shot some horse polo with the D600 and the 80-400 lens (my copy of which is on its last legs). They are posted to my website. Here is a direct link to the gallery with those shots:!i=2124612794

        Note the following: These were all shot with a shutter speed of 1/1,600th sec, f/5.6, Auto ISO, AF-C, 21D, Single release (not CL or CH), 14-bit NEF. The files were 1st processed in ViewNX2 to JPG files; which then had final editing and processing done in DxO (since DxO can not yet process D600 NEF files). If you look closely, you will see that even at 400mm, you can see individual hairs of the horses’ tails. There are some shots that are iffy, however at the lower ISOs there are some good shots. Once can process in DxO, can create better quality JPGs.

        The D600 can be used for sports, however it will take some getting used to, and I believe it will work best in Single release mode, instead of CL or CH. Also, AF-S lenses instead of AF lenses would be best. I plan to try some shots with a 70-300 AF-S within the next few days. If anybody is interested in the results, let me know, and I will post a follow-up comment.


        • Profile photo of Nasim Mansurov Nasim Mansurov
          October 2, 2012 at 2:25 pm

          William, thanks for sharing! Now I certainly want to try out burst CH mode with birds. Shooting in Single release mode does not sound right!

        • fred
          October 2, 2012 at 7:40 pm

          @ william

          Whats up with the watermark? It destroyed your photos. Who would steal those shots?

          • William Jones
            October 2, 2012 at 9:15 pm

            Photos are watermarked and right-click protected as I do sell some. Not expecting any sales (or thefts) from the people on this site, however that is the same gallery that I post the shots to for the players from the polo matches. Purchased shots are not watermarked. If someone does manage to steal, is a PITA of a watermark to remove. I understand makes viewing less enjoyable, however that is also the point of that type of watermark, to encourage sales. May not be the best idea, and am open to suggestions, however Smugmug placement options for watermarks do not include 1/3 from the bottom or 1/3 from the top, so center is the “best of a bad lot.”


    • 6.2) Mako2011
      October 2, 2012 at 9:05 pm

      William Jones, what is your menu a3 (Focus-tracking with lock on) set to? The default is “3” and can lead to missed focus if the subject is moving away or towards while in AF Mode AF-C. Focus-tracking with lock on is designed to prevent loss of focus when something momentarily comes between the camera on the subject. With the 4800DX unit it was recommended to set menu a3 to off when in AF-C to prevent exactly the symptoms you describe. I wonder if that recommendation should also be adopted for the 4800FX

      • 6.2.1) William Jones
        October 2, 2012 at 9:24 pm

        Good question/point. I always shoot with it turned off. Forgot to mention in the settings that I listed.

        By the way, battery life is fairly good. Just checked, and have 43% power left with a shot count of 2,430. I always shoot with review turned off, and don’t shoot in live view. I review as few shots as possible (since shoot mostly action shots, seldom have the time, and can’t restage the action). Most of those shots were with the 80-400 lens. Some with a 80-200, and about 90 with a 70-300. I believe (please correct me if I am wrong), that AF-S lenses will require less battery power than AF lenses. I expect I could shoot 4,000+ shots on a single charge; a lot better than the 900 CIPA rating.


  7. 7) Roberto
    October 2, 2012 at 12:39 am

    Wu-1B ins’t for d7000.
    D700 has Wt-4a

    • October 2, 2012 at 10:08 am

      Roberto, thanks for catching that – I fixed it!

  8. 8) Srini
    October 2, 2012 at 2:37 am

    Can’t wait! bring it asap please :)

  9. 9) Mike
    October 2, 2012 at 3:01 am

    Hi Nasim

    Really looking forward to your review, but I have taken the plunge and ordered my D600, it arrives tomorrow along with an F4 24-120mm lens (S/H) I am now like a cat on a hot tin roof awaiting it’s arrival, will be taking it up to the lovely city of York this weekend and hoping to get into the Cathedral to really test it out.

    One question, what write speed would you advise for my SD card, I have a 45mb/s from my D300s to start with, but need to purchase a second. Also have you ventured into the world of photo books via Lightroom 4, would be interested in any advice/tutorials in that direction.


    • 9.1) Grimbot
      October 2, 2012 at 2:22 pm

      Hi Mike, I believe that at this point on 45mb and 95 mb cards have been tested and approved by Nikon for the D600. I am shooting with Sandisk 45mb and 95 mb cards….the 95 mb cards do clear quicker so if you can spend a bit more money that would be my suggestion. I picked up my 45 mb and 95 mb on sale at B&H.

      • 9.1.1) Mike
        October 3, 2012 at 1:15 am

        Thanks Grimbot, I will invest in a 95mb card for the second slot, I do remember reading that it was not much point in getting anything faster than a 45mb for the D300s as the camera could not write fast enough for any card witha higher rate, camera arrives today, I hope…..

  10. 10) Paulo G
    October 2, 2012 at 3:37 am

    Hi Nasim

    Will you include some old nikon prime lenses on your D600 review (like nikon af-d 24mm f/2.8)? It would be great because people like me has no money to buy a recent Af-s zoom like 24-70 f/2.8 or 24-120 f/4. I don’t believe so much in nikon af-s 24-85mm/3.5-4.5 g ed vr…

    • October 2, 2012 at 1:04 pm

      Paulo, I do not have any old lenses to test with the D600, but will update the review with info if I get a hold of some…

  11. 11) mayank
    October 2, 2012 at 4:34 am

    Dear Bros and Sis

    recently i was going through some books in google, i came across a topic saying never use a 50 mm for portrait of ladies for close up.
    This really confused me as in most of the case people at my level who don’t have big expensive portrait glass rely on this glass most.

    please put some light on this with your long experiences,
    special request for Lola to say some thing here as I know Nasim is too busy with D600 :-).

    here is the link to the book review.

    looking forward for your advice.

    best Regards

    • October 2, 2012 at 10:22 am

      Mayan, just don’t shoot close-ups/headshots with a 50mm lens or shorter, it does tend to distort the frame a little. My wife loves the 50mm lens and she uses it for portraits all the time (her #1 wedding photography lens). However, she knows how far to keep herself from the subject to maintain a good look. The same goes with using wide-angle lenses. If you get too close to a subject, their face will look large in proportion to their body and if you move them to the corner, they will look very distorted…

      • 11.1.1) mayank
        October 2, 2012 at 10:42 am

        Dear Nasim
        many thanks for advise and reply here

        will try out some images to have this experience and also look to my collection of portraits how it will make the difference.

        thanks again


        • kumar varun
          October 3, 2012 at 1:15 am

          Hi Mayank,

          I would suggest you to avoid any ‘head shots’ of portraits as they would be distorted when taken with 50mm. You can take half,2/3rd body shots without much distortion.
          Moreover 50mm is 75mm on DX and that is nearly OK for portraits


          • Mayank Manu
            October 3, 2012 at 7:02 am

            Dear Varun
            thanks for your feed back.

            where are you placed in India.


    • 11.2) Naftoli
      October 3, 2012 at 10:39 am

      the auther was reffering to using a 50mm lens on a full frame body, when using it on a dx or apsc sized sensor there will be no distortion whatsoever. scott kelbys books r great for beginners but if ur serious about learning photography i would suggest moving on to some more in depth books which explain more of the “whys” in photography,

      • 11.2.1) mayank
        October 4, 2012 at 5:13 am

        thanks for the advise, i think that is the reason I never came across such problem with my snaps ,as I use DX body.

        that seems to be right reason for this comment from author.

        pls suggest some books here


        • Naftoli
          October 4, 2012 at 10:09 am

          there r many great books on photography and there r also some not so great books u have to take everything u read with a grain of salt especially from the simpler more beginner books like “scott kelby”. one more note is that focal length doesnt affect perspective! the reason a headshot with a 50mm can be distorted on a full frame is b/c u moved the camera closer to the subject then u normally would had u been using a dx sensor. thats one example where scott kelby in an effort to appear simple does not give u the absolute truth, one good auther i have seen is brian peterson, and joe mcnally. hope this helps

  12. 12) Kartken
    October 2, 2012 at 5:03 am

    Just sold my d300 and can’t decide between d600 and d800/Left AF issue/.
    Thanks Nasim for your time.

    • 12.1) Randall
      October 2, 2012 at 8:00 am

      If I had to do it over I would buy a d800.

    • October 2, 2012 at 10:23 am

      Kartken, I guess it depends on what you want to do with your photography. If you need the best, go for the D800.

  13. 13) Mohamed
    October 2, 2012 at 6:38 am

    dear Nazim,
    thanks a lot for this great effort and congratulation on the new name, i like it.
    does the d600 has the same problem as d800 regarding Live View magnification (very poor magnification due to interpolation ) , some website address this problem as very server in d800 , making it useless to focus in this mode , what is your advice on this issue ? . do u think Nikon is going to offer a fix for this problem by a firmware upgrade ?

    best regard

    • 13.1) gregorylent
      October 4, 2012 at 11:58 pm

      useless on my d600 … as is the auto focus on video live view, focus box won’t turn green

  14. October 2, 2012 at 6:42 am

    Ladies are best looked at through rose-tinted spectacles, not hyper-sharp, high-contrast glass. (Coke bottles sometimes do best!) Even the excellent old 85 mm 1.8D is appropriately designed (as confirmed by Nikon vs. the 70-200 VR2) to produce a much more pleasing image — for this.

  15. 15) Randall
    October 2, 2012 at 7:50 am

    You forgot to mention the d600 comes complete with sensor dust from the factory and a lovely green tint in jpeg files. Don’t believe me google d600 sensor dust? Shoot at a blue sky at f16 or above to see how much you get right out of the box!!!. Also take a photo of a nice porcelain sink in good lighting then shift white balance to m1. If the fist image doesn’t have a green tint consider yourself lucky. Well I better be off to the post office now to pay out of pocket to send my camera in to Nikon to have it examined. Who knew photography could be so much fun.

    • 15.1) JR
      October 2, 2012 at 9:22 am

      Hi Randall,

      I’ve owned my D600 for approximately six days and the sensor dust is visible and bothersome at f16 or higher. So much so, that it ruined a number of pictures.

      I don’t mind editing a bit of the sky here and there, but when you have to reconstruct large parts of the image because of dust, on a *BRAND NEW* camera, it speaks volumes about the lack of quality control at Nikon. Yes, a bit of dust is acceptable and nearly impossible to avoid, even on a new camera, but the amount of dust on the D600 is well above average; more along the lines of dust that you find after a year or two of continuous use.

      That said, I’ve had dust on every sensor of every digital Nikon body I’ve owned and I’ve successfully cleaned them myself. I’ve used this product and it works like a charm; just make sure to get the appropriately sized swab for the D600, or whatever sensor you’ll be cleaning:

      Not excusing Nikon; but it’s not the end of the world, nor reason to send the camera back to Nikon. You will eventually save a lot of $ if you learn to clean the sensor yourself. The kit costs ~ $25 and -vs- the $80 that the local “expert” charges, I’m doing it myself!

      ~ JR

      • 15.1.1) Randall
        October 2, 2012 at 10:10 am

        Did you successfully clean it d600 yet? Some are saying it don’t work as it may be oil not dust. I curious if it cleaning worked. You got any tips for the green tint besides shooting raw.

        • JR
          October 2, 2012 at 4:12 pm

          I’ve not had time to clean my sensor yet. But I’m not worried about it. I cleaned the D7000’s sensor and it was a piece of cake; and it was supposedly the grease from the mirror(per some reports on the net). It took me two full swabs, both sides, before it was completely clean. But it came out great! Not a single spot. I have no reason to believe that I can’t do the same for the D600.

          If you follow Nasim’s notes on how to clean your sensor, you should be fine.

        • Flem
          October 5, 2012 at 4:18 pm

          You’re really sending off your camera because of a dirty sensor and a jpeg setting you dont like? 1 -Buy a lenspen and clean your sensor. 2 – you can change the jpeg settings (i only shoot raw so cant remember how) but ken rockwell (don’t laugh) always goes on about how he changes the hue on his jpegs and probs mentions how on the d800/600 page on his site

          • Randall
            October 5, 2012 at 4:46 pm

            Flem….yes I’m sending it off for two reasons. 1.) I’ve never cleaned a sensor and I heard it voids your warranty. 2.) Some i read have had multiple cleanings and still have dust. Nikon will give me a dust free camera before this warranty is up. I respect most of ken rockwells ideas and yes his suggestion for the green tint does help until I can shoot raw. Unfortunately iPhoto does not support d600 raw yet. Again I am still learning the functions of the camera so it’s not an excuse jus baby steps. And yes I know I need Lightroom. Baby steps. Lol.

    • October 2, 2012 at 12:57 pm

      Randall, I have two D600 units right now – one on loan and one I bought for myself. Both units have no dust on the sensor (checked today). I will examine the chamber carefully today again and see if there is any other debris in there. Like I stated before in a number of posts, Nikon’s QA process has gone down the drain lately. Looks like you are not the only one that is seeing dust on the sensor on a brand new D600. Very unfortunate and disappointing :(

      If you do not know how to clean a sensor, I suggest you learn as soon as you can, since sending your DSLR to Nikon every time you get dust will get expensive. See my article/video on “how to wet clean your sensor” for information on how to do this. Even if there is oil on your sensor, you can still clean it yourself. It will just take a couple of tries.

      As for the green tint, I never noticed it on any of the new Nikon DSLRs, but that’s because I shoot RAW. I do not know why anyone would want to use an advanced DSLR and shoot JPEG – it is like buying a Porsche and driving it at 5 miles an hour. Or buying a full-frame camera to shoot in DX mode. I do not want to bring up another RAW vs JPEG debate here, but there is no excuse for not using RAW. I have heard it all from sports, wedding and wildlife photographers and I can tell you that none of their arguments make much sense. The ONLY case where I can understand when JPEG is needed, is when a file needs to be provided to the client right away (such as when shooting football games, doing a slideshow in weddings, etc). And even for those cases, I always recommend to shoot RAW to one card and JPEG to another.

      I hope I did not hurt your feelings with the JPEG rant :)

      • 15.2.1) Randall
        October 2, 2012 at 2:04 pm

        I’m still learning that’s why I shoot jpeg. With the green tint though I will be on the fast track to raw soon. I will eventually clean the sensor myself but the first cleaning will be done by them to insure it is dust and that its even removable!!! Some have said they think its oil. Could be anything knowing Nikon lately it could be some other defect. I also don’t feel like the auto Iso logic is very good but I know you probably don’t use that either…. ;)

        • Profile photo of Nasim Mansurov Nasim Mansurov
          October 2, 2012 at 2:19 pm

          Randall, oil was also a problem on some D7000 units. Nikon QA needs a slap on their hands for letting this happen! As for Auto ISO, I love the way Auto ISO is implemented on the D600. I have been waiting for a proper “Auto” implementation for max shutter speed and I am glad that Nikon finally addressed it starting from the D800/D4. I wish Nikon took it a step further by compensating for VR, but I am sure we will see that in the future. I use Auto ISO a lot!

          • JR
            October 2, 2012 at 4:17 pm


            I lost about half dozen really good images this past wknd due to the D600’s auto ISO changing to a higher setting(6400) which was much too noisy for what I was shooting. The noise was visible in the sky,hence I had to delete the images. It’s a nice tool, if you’re shooting around town and for fun. But be VERY CAREFUL if you’re shooting anything that requires low ISO; it could kick up to a higher setting without you knowing it. I set it to not be automatic; I prefer it that way.


            • William Jones
              October 2, 2012 at 5:01 pm

              JR, you can always set a limit on Auto ISO. Real easy:

              Shooting Menu, ISO sensitivity settings, Maximum sensitivity, pick a # (1,000; 1,250; 1,600; 2,000; 2,500; 3,200; 4,000; 5,000; 6,400; Hi 0.3; Hi 0.7l Hi 1; Hi 2; plus some lower #s). Put this menu item in My Menu to get to faster. Can place in any order in that menu (1st item, 2nd, etc). I always have ISO displayed in the viewfinder, so I know what is happening, and can change quick if I need to.


            • October 3, 2012 at 7:04 am

              I have used the wonderful Topaz suite on occasion and where necessary: DeNoise is worth every penny, and offers subtle control over noise reduction, preserving detail remarkably. When all fails, select Blue with a Wand in PS, modify -1, and add some Gaussian blur! I try not to scrap otherwise valuable photos.

          • Randall
            October 2, 2012 at 5:57 pm

            Hmmm…. well when I set to P or A mode with auto iso (the modes I use the most) I feel like the pictures come out way to dark. Especially if I am indoors. If I set the camera to full auto and take the same shot it uses a higher ISO. The shot details are pretty much the same except the P mode shot shows the ISO in red as if its the wrong ISO for the conditions. Shouldn’t this camera always chose the correct ISO given the other settings? This confused me so much I called Nikon who actually reproduced the same problem on the unit they had on hand but couldn’t tell me why. They just sent me a bunch of links to read which most I had read already. Try it yourself. Take a shot inside of something inside your house using full auto mode. Then take that same shot in P mode using auto ISO. The shot in full auto will look great and the shot in P mode will look dark. Either I don’t understand the difference in the modes which is understandable or something is wrong. I used my d5100 in P mode and auto ISO and never was unhappy with a shot. Nikon says they have different metering thats why. So confused….

        • Flem
          October 5, 2012 at 4:20 pm

          That’s not a reason! The fact that you’re learning doesn’t preclude you from shooting raw. ‘Learning’ should cover learning how to get the best files out of your camera, this will never ever happen if you shoot jpeg.

      • 15.2.2) TR
        October 3, 2012 at 2:23 am

        Nasim, I agree on shooting RAW and would never do anything else, so it is a great thing that Lightroom does, as of today, support the D600 (yes, only preliminary, but it works very well for me). Hats off to Adobe for being so fast. Anyway, maybe you should have a word with Ken Rockwell about RAW vs JPEG (kidding!).

    • October 4, 2012 at 1:52 pm

      Randall, after careful re-examination of the second and third D600 units, I can see sensor dust on both of them (the first one had none). One was brand new, without any lens attached to it yet and the other one I have used for a week. The dust appears to be regular dust, not oil or any other residue. I used the rocket blower on the sensor and it got rid of most of the stuff, but it does bug me that Nikon QA let these slip through. The chambers look more or less clean, so I am assuming the dust to be from the manufacturing process. The second unit only had a couple of dust specks on the sensor, which is why I did not notice them in the beginning, while the third unit has some big and small specks all over the sensor.

      Why can’t Nikon launch a product without problems? While this is far better than the D800 left AF issue, I am still not happy about Nikon’s QA, which should have taken care of all dust on the sensor before shipping the units. I will post a quick article on this later today, which will also be a part of the Nikon D600 review now…

      • 15.3.1) Randall
        October 4, 2012 at 7:40 pm

        Yes it seems that Nikon has no quality control these days. I still think I’m going to complain and make them give me my first sensor cleaning. I can do the rest of the cleanings myself. Im curious to see what they will have to say. I can’t help but thing the “dust” may be from the floods that affected the factory. I hope the rest of the cameras internal parts are clean. I agree it is definitely better then a focus problem but still disappointing.

      • 15.3.2) Randall
        October 4, 2012 at 7:44 pm
  16. 16) Grimbot
    October 2, 2012 at 8:41 am

    I’ve had my D600 for about 10 days now and love it. The additional dynamic range and resolving ability of the D600 over the D7000 is crystal clear as soon as you start shooting with it. I’m going to keep my D7000 as my back up body and for ‘extra reach’ with 16 MP. I’m going to do some tests shooting my D600 in DX crop (i.e. 10.4 MP) to see how the images compare with the D7000 at 16 MP.

    The 39-point AF is quite closely clustered on the D600 so some images require you to focus and recompose some shots…but that’s a small issue compared to the outstanding quality that the D600 produces.

    I will be doing a corporate video shoot with it on Friday this week and looking forward to see how it performs…..I am expecting better results than from my D7000.

    I already have a 70-300 VR and I bought the 24-85 VR kit lens with the camera. Both perform fine for my needs and the 70-300 VR shots are more detailed with the D600 than with my D7000. On the weekend I bought Nikkor’s outstanding Micro 105VR lens as I do a lot of close up work and I wanted better quality than I am currently getting with my Micro 85 DX lens….and all I can say is WOW!!!

    The quality of the images from my D600 with the Micro 105 are simply jaw-dropping. Incredible detail and colour rendition. Love it! Love it! Love it!

    • 16.1) Grimbot
      October 4, 2012 at 3:57 pm

      Just completed some initial shooting with my Nikkor DX zoom lenses (10-24 and 16-85 VR) on my D600 and comparing the results to the same lenses on my D7000….10.4 MP to 16 MP. I was initially thinking of taking both of my cameras to Utah next week.

      Without question I will only be taking my D600 and packing an extra lens or two in place of the extra camera body. Image quality of the D600 in DX mode, especially at ISO3200, simply blows the D7000 out of the water. Sharper, less noise, more dynamic range…..I’m very surprised at the degree of difference.

      With all of the talk about dust on the D600 sensor I took some shots of the sky….and viewed them carefully at 100% and could not detect any dust at all.

  17. 17) Todd Long
    October 2, 2012 at 8:43 am

    Nasim, yet another question about “down-sampling”…. My resizing workflow mirrors your process that you have outlined in your previous articles on the topic. The only thing I am not clear on is when you talk about for example, down-sampling from 24mp to 16mp for increased quality. If for example I use my D800 and wanted to down-sample to 12 or 16 mp, what would that process look like in the context of your workflow?



    • October 2, 2012 at 1:02 pm

      Todd, simply take the horizontal resolution of 16 MP (which is 4,928 pixels wide for the D7000) and use that number when extracting out of Lightroom. This will down-sample the resulting image for comparison purposes. Ideally, it is best to use Photoshop, since it allows you to choose between different down-sampling algorithms…

  18. October 2, 2012 at 9:46 am

    This is a very simple math, for twice the money amount you get twice the sensor and twice the processor and many other little things. The new D600 is one of the best products that Nikon came up with in the last 2-3 years. I wouldn’t say that this is inexpensive camera, so inexpensive for what it is and there is a concrete type of uses targeted this time. These people who wanted a full-frame camera but couldn’t afford it today Nikon has most affordable Full-Frame format body in industry and this is enough to convert those who wanted Full-Frame body in to Nikon customers. D600 universal in terms of FX and DX format, fast for what it is and small/light weight powerful machine. It’s a lot different than D7000. It has some little features similar to D7000 but with different sensor and processor they produce better results, much better results. A+ for D600, A+ for Nikon this time. I am still waiting for the D300s replacement with faster shutter speed than D600.

  19. 19) Farhad Farajov
    October 2, 2012 at 1:08 pm

    Hello Nasim,

    Thanks for such a great review.
    I’m planning to buy D600, however haven’t decided which lens to go with. Taking into consideration that I’m an amateur photographer, which lens you recommend to buy?
    a) 24-120mm f/4
    b) 85mm f/1.8 + 28mm f/1.8
    Please be informed that I mainly use my camera for taking portraits and while traveling


    • October 2, 2012 at 2:21 pm

      Farhad, I would chose #2 over #1 any time :)

      • 19.1.1) Farhad Farajov
        October 2, 2012 at 3:48 pm


        Thanks for your honest comment :)
        Couple more things I’d like to ask from you, it would be appreciated if you can answer

        1. As you know the kit lens for D600, 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 is not that good. Besides, there are mixed comments on 24-120mm f/4 (I’ve read your review as well). I want to buy a mid range zoom lens for traveling , but because of those thing I don’t know what to do. What is your suggestion?
        2. Is Nikon going to update D700 in near future?

        Thanks in advance,

        • Grimbot
          October 2, 2012 at 4:16 pm

          Hi Farhad, I have three FX lenses that I use with my D600…the 24-85 VR, 70-300 VR and the Micro 105VR. For travel the 24-85 VR is a decent performer….not ‘pro’ quality but you can still get some very good landscape shots especially if you stop it down to f5.6 or f8. It really depends on the amount of quality that you really need for what you are doing. The micro 105VR is simply stunning in terms of image quality.

          I also have a D7000 with a selection of DX lenses including 10-24, 16-85, 85 micro (which I am in the process of selling) and 35 f1.8. These coupled with the 70-300 VR give me a lot of flexibility for a modest investment in lenses.

          Like everything in life it is all about trade-offs in terms of the quality you really need and how much money you are willing to invest in your kit. If all you need are very good travel shots then the D7000 will be more than enough camera and some of the DX lenses are actually quite good.

    • 19.2) Randall
      October 2, 2012 at 6:53 pm

      I have a d600 with 3 primes and a zoom (85 1.4g, 28 1.8g, 50 1.8g, and 28-300mm) if I had to leave the house with only one lens on my d600 it would be the 50mm because I feel like I can shoot most anything with it. Also the d600 with 50 1.8 attached is very light weight and would be more comfortable to carry around. The 28 wide for me to cover everything and the 85 is to close for me. The 28-300 has been great so far but is big and heavy so I can imagine the 24-120 would be better but you really have to decide how much you want to lug around. You could always get a 24-120 and a 50 1.8 or even the 24-85mm and a 50mm 1.8 would be a nice combo for travel. Don’t discount the 24-85 just because it seems cheap. Nikon really put allot into that lens and you would be surprised the images it can take. See Steve Simon Flickr set:

  20. 20) Mike
    October 2, 2012 at 2:10 pm

    Ah, I see from an earlier post that I have got it right about the choice of a F4 24 – 120mm for the D600, glad about that, it arrives tomorrow.
    Any thoughts on the write speed for the SD card , I will use the 45mb/s that I was using in the D300s.


    • 20.1) William Jones
      October 2, 2012 at 2:15 pm

      If you don’t shoot bursts, the 45MBs cards should be fine. If you plan to shoot sports/events, and will need to keep clicking away, faster cards would be advised. I shot with slower cards at first, then invested in some of the new 95MBs cards. The # of shots till a full buffer increased dramatically, and the time to clear the buffer was a lot shorter.


      • October 2, 2012 at 2:20 pm

        I agree with William – 45 MB is plenty for regular photography, but if you are planning to shoot anything fast like birds/sports, then consider getting a 95 MB/s card.

  21. 21) Mike
    October 2, 2012 at 2:27 pm

    Great, will keep that one for general use and get a faster for the second slot and for bird shots.


  22. 22) gregorylent
    October 3, 2012 at 4:30 am

    love my d600 … the d800 is on the shelf, either for sale, or for special projects, it is not a walk around shooter like the d600 is, for me.

    the d7000 is going in for an infrared conversion

    • 22.1) Fathom
      October 3, 2012 at 8:58 am

      Hi Gregorylent,

      Why do you say that the D800 is not a walk around shooter? I’m just curious because I’m planning to invest on either a D800 or a D600. Hope I’ll get your response soon. Thanks.

      • 22.1.1) gregorylent
        October 3, 2012 at 7:16 pm

        d600 is lighter, nice fit to the hand, has an auto function that guarantees a photo immediately upon pulling out of the bag, has two presets right on the dial that allows for quick adjustment, say, white balance settings as you walk out the door ar night … the d800 seems to blur more easily, requires more thought prior to click, often needs a tripod, file size is huge, it is great for set-up shots

        • Fathom
          October 4, 2012 at 1:07 am

          I see Gregory. So if there’s a chance to turn back time you would’ve skipped your purchase of the D800 and run off with the D600?

          Actually, I shoot in manual mode. And with that, I’m not sure if that would help with the supposed “higher shot discipline” required for the D800. But of course, I haven’t had that much thorough experience of the D800 like you did.

          Also, what lenses are you using for both the D800 and D600? And have you tried both in low light situations and handheld the shots? I’m interested in its performance on events & gatherings where given that they’re mostly indoors, the situation will be low light and that I would still want to capture those candid shots (With a flash attached most probably).

          • gregorylent
            October 4, 2012 at 7:36 pm

            hah, turns out d600 autofocus in video live view is totally broken .. oh, well, nikon quality ain’t what it used to be, off to the repair shop //

            if you really know what you are doing, and can work through the contorls and menus rapidly, and don’t mind the file size, d800 is great…

            for street photography, i like the auto and user presets of d600 \

            same lenses on both, good ones.

            • Fathom
              October 4, 2012 at 8:57 pm

              Hi Gregory,

              Thanks for your responses. Much appreciated. Lastly, how do you define the question, “If you really know what you are doing?” in your own way (or generally for the matter) on executing the D800’s capabilities?

  23. October 3, 2012 at 5:20 am

    Thanks Nasim for again doing the work for us. Looking forward to your bird images as I am now deciding between staying with the DX format or moving to FX. The D600 seems the right camera to move from my D7000. Read your opinion on both options. But my passion/preference to capture birds by handheld and not tripod means I am reluctant to give up the crop factor of the DX. But the quality of the sensor in the D600 may make all the difference. CH mode of course important.

  24. 24) John Key
    October 3, 2012 at 8:32 am

    thanks Nasim for all your share with us. I am just wondering how you manage all this…

    I have a question. I am planning to buy D600. I have now D7000 and D5100 (which I have been thinking of selling, but I like the articulated LCD monitor). I would like to have a second camera as a backup. What would you recommend, 5100 or 7000? Thanks

  25. 25) Naftoli
    October 3, 2012 at 10:50 am

    hi Nasim is it possible to set the custom funtion button to access commander mode on the d600 like on the d7000? i have tried doing this on the d800 and i dont think its possible

  26. 26) JR
    October 3, 2012 at 10:50 am

    Hi Nasim,

    I finally had a chance to post some pics from the San Juan mountains trip(I have many more, but don’t have time to look through all of them). These are quickie edits from jpgs. I will take my time and work the raw files as time permits. Sadly, the quality that flickr offers is not the best for evaluating the D600’s IQ. In the future I will post these images(and others) to a blog page that allows higher quality.

    You can see them here:

    Note, that I’ve also included samples of the dust issue that Randall as complaining about. It’s real and the pics show the problem.

    D600 -vs- D7000: Initial Impressions
    – The D600 is larger and heavier than the D7000. The MBD14 grip is quite massive and makes the D600-grip a load to carry around all day. And for those who will say that I’m a wimp with girl hands, check out my photostream above, where I include a pic of one of my hands(XX-large). Not a girl’s hand, by any stretch. The D600 is BIGGER and HEAVIER and if your goal is to travel light and take pictures inconspicuously, think twice! You WILL be noticed. The D600 with grip is NOT your typical street shooter!

    – The focusing points gathered in the middle IS an issue that should not be ignored and one of the first things that you will notice when moving “up” to the D600 from the D7000. Sure, while composing a landscape, which is mostly what I will be doing with the D600, there’s no problem using the center point/s, or moving the ONE point around with the dial until you get your target in focus. BUT….to those that rely on tracking a target at the extreme edge of frame(birds, sporting events, car races, etc.), you will NOT be able to do so, like you would on a D300s or the D7000. This point(no pun intended) should not be taken lightly and it’s one reason why DX is better for sports and wildlife. Will FX eventually have a better spread of focus points? We hope, otherwise this is a downer for the aforementioned shooters.

    Lenses: this applies to all FX cameras and not just the D600. Even though you have the so-called DX mode on the D600, you won’t want to use your DX lenses on a full frame camera. Why do that? Makes no sense whatsoever, unless you’re doing it for transition purposes while you are saving $ toward FX glass.

    FX glass: yes, friends, this is a BIG(literally) problem. The current crop of Nikkor wide and mid-range FX zooms are either way too heavy and/or too long, much to expensive or flat-out mediocre(see the D600 kit lens).

    There’s no such thing as a 16-85mm ED VR DX equivalent in the FX world. No, please, Nasim, don’t tell me that the 24-120mm F4 is its equivalent. It’s not! First of all, the 16-85mm ED VR DX is quite likely one of THE FINEST lenses that Nikon’s ever produced. Just as sharp, if not sharper, corner to corner than the top professional Nikon glass. The 24-120mm F4 is beyond soft at its top end and the distortion is disturbing for a $1.2K lens. There is no better zoom lens in the ENTIRE Nikkor lineup than the 16-85mm ED VR DX. Price to performance, it’s a CLASSIC!

    If that weren’t enough, the 16-85MM ED VR DX is compact and light and has a 24-120mm reach on DX. It’s a perfect walk around street shooter or travel-landscape lens. To achieve the SAME quality(sharpness and contrast) on your new D600 get ready to shell out nearly $2K for the 24-70mm behemoth! Honestly, if that lens were GIVEN TO ME I would sell it for a prime or two and use the rest of the money to finance a photography trip. But that’s me. I HATE humongous mid-range zooms and why I still shoot with my trusty 28-105mm AF f3.5-4.5. Stopped down to f8-f13, it produces images JUST as sharp and contrasty as ANY mid-range Nikon zoom; pro or consumer.

    Ah, yes, there are some positives when moving from a D7000 to a D600. One word: IMAGE QUALITY!

    Ultimately, when all is said and done, IQ is what we’re primarily after, right? In my case, I want to print anywhere between 16×24 and 24×36 inches and want to do so at photographic quality. I also print panoramas that may be as large as 30×72 inches. I could care less if my pics look good on Flickr or on If an image doesn’t look GREAT on print, it’s disappointing to me. Of course, if you’ve never shot MF or LF, or any film camera for that matter, or you hardly, if ever, print anything, then what I’m saying will make little sense to you.

    As for image quality, the D600 is *MUCH BETTER* than the D7000. A point that is not open for debate. The D600’s sensor is larger, captures more detail with less noise and has a dynamic range that approaches and surpasses most MF digital systems! That is saying something.

    If you’re goal is to only post images to forums and blogs and never print larger than 16-24 or even 20×30(which the D7000 does admirably), then why upgrade to a D600? The D7000 is a GREAT camera. I’m keeping mine. There’s no way I’m taking a D600 to vacation in a third world country(I am going to do that soon). I’d rather take a smaller, lighter package that attracts less attention.

    Oh, the viewfinder, of course! How can I forget! Yes, with the D600 you will be mesmerized at how MUCH you can see. It’s like looking through a window -vs- looking through a port hole(D7000). You will be able to clearly see how all of those focus points are bunched up in the middle; you will be able to see those points VERY CLEARLY ;-)

    I feel as if though I may have jumped a bit too early by buying the D600. Yes, the image quality is there, in spades. I love it! But, what about the follow-up to the D300/D7000? Will those DX cameras have comparable quality to the D600?

    Don’t scoff at the idea that a DX sensor can outperform a full frame sensor. It’s already happening(look at the top mirrorless cameras). I *LOVE* my DX glass(specially the aforementioned 16-85mm ED VR). I like their sharpness, contrast and size. If it weren’t that I already own Nikkor lenses(older zooms and D primes), I would not have bought the D600. I hate the thought of lugging around any of the newer Nikkor zooms. They are too long, heavy and ugly.

    That said, I’m starting to believe that DX may NOT be dead, after all. I will see what Nikon offers in the form of a 24MP DX body. If it comes close to the quality of the D600, I may consider selling my D600 and getting the new DX body. Call me crazy, but my eyes don’t lie. I know the kind of quality that DX lenses produce and the older I get the more I appreciate having equal quality in a smaller, less expensive footprint.

    My devalued US $0.02!


  27. 27) Žele
    October 4, 2012 at 5:35 am

    Nasim, could you provide D800 viewfinder comparison with D600 same as you do with D7000 and D600?

    • October 4, 2012 at 1:53 pm

      Zele, the viewfinder comparison above is between D600 and D800 :)

  28. 28) DMC
    October 4, 2012 at 12:41 pm

    The Nikon D600 users, please post here!/groups/340277772719059/ some pictures taken with D600. Thanks

  29. 29) John Key
    October 5, 2012 at 1:50 am

    thanks Nasim for all your share with us. I am just wondering how you manage all this…

    I have a question. I am planning to buy D600. I have now D7000 and D5100 (where I like the articulated LCD monitor). I would like to have a second camera as a backup. Which one would you recommend as the second camera, 5100 or 7000? Thanks so much

  30. 30) mahaveer
    October 30, 2012 at 9:36 am

    i would like to purchase a nikon d7000 camera for professional photography. kindly suggest the lens with this

    • 30.1) Bitanphoto
      November 29, 2012 at 11:05 pm

      The D7000 isn’t really a professional camera. I bought one last week in a pinch when my D700 got too wet and stopped working in the middle of a three-day job, and despite the higher MP count I can see a big difference in the aesthetic (not strictly mechanical) quality of the images. Handling is nowhere near as solid as the D700, even with a battery grip, and it feels light and cheap in comparison. Unless you feel you need the extra pixel count of the D7000 I’d recommend you consider moving up to the D600 or looking for a used or final run D700.

      • 30.1.1) Thomas Stirr
        November 30, 2012 at 4:46 am

        Hi mahaveer….

        I think that Bob Krist….one of the world’s most respected travel photographers would disagree strongly that the D7000 is not a ‘professional’ camera. Bob has been contributing to National Geographic and Traveller magazines for decades and he shoots with a pair of D7000s.

        To answer your question about lenses for the D700, Bob Krist shoots with a Nikkor 70-300 VR, Nikkor 16-85 VR, Nikkor 35mm f1.8, Nikkor 10.5mm, Nikkor 85mm Micro, and 11-16mm Tokina. Here’s a link to a piece about what’s in Bob’s camera bag:

        If you have any doubt about the sensational, ‘professional’ images that Bob Krist creates have a look at his web site. Whether a camera is ‘professional’ or not depends on who is behind it.

        I have been using the following lenses with my D7000 and had excellent results:
        – Nikkor 70-300 VR – very good zoom for the money especially from 70-200, it is a bit soft on the long end
        – Nikkor 16-85 VR – the lens I use most often, great ‘walk-around’ versatility, this lens is rated as the best DX zoom lens by Thom Hogan
        – Nikkor 10-24 – love this lens for landscape
        – Nikkor 35 f1.8 – surprisingly good, inexpensive lens for lower light situations
        – Nikkor Micro 85 VR – modestly priced macro with added versatility due to VR, good quality images for the money

        I am selling my 85 Micro as I recently purchased a Nikkor 105 mm Micro to go with my Nikkor D600.

        On a separate note….my dealer called yesterday to say that my Nikon D600 is back from Nikon Canada Service. It looks like they may have only cleaned the sensor, which is the third time in less than 300 shots that the sensor has been cleaned. Rather than go and pick up my camera I’ve asked my dealer to test it first and take about a 100 shots with it and re-check for dust. If the dust is still there….back to Nikon Canada it goes.

  31. 31) Yves Leon
    December 6, 2012 at 5:07 am

    Dear Nasim,

    Thank you very much for the effort you put into this website, in view of the decision I need to take it has been very helpful.
    My camera at the moment is a D80, which I use with a Sigma 10-20 DX lens, and the Nikon 18-200.
    I intend to upgrade in January, and my initial thoughts were to buy a D7000 with a Nikon 17-55 DX lens, or a Nikon 24-70 lens. I will buy either the Sigma 70-200 or the Nikon 70-200 f/4 as well. After having read your comparison between the D7000 and the D600, I tend more to buy the D600, even though it is more expensive.

    If I buy the D600 I am thinking of 2 lens set options.
    1) Nikon 16-35, Nikon 50mm f/1.8 and either the Sigma 70-200 or Nikon 70-200 f/4.
    2) Nikon 24-70 and either the Sigma 70-200 or Nikon 70-200 f/4.

    I think the 70-200 will be the Nikon, since it is priced similar to the Sigma, but is much lighter and probably of better quality as being a Nikon product. ( regarding prices, I live in Turkey, and will buy all the equipment on my trip to Hong Kong; unfortunately there will be guarantee issues, but I can not buy at BH and Turkey is very expensive)

    Now if I choose for option 1 it will be a few 100 dollars cheaper, the lenses will be lighter than the 24-70, and I can shoot wider, even though I will have some gaps.But I will have to cary 3 lenses instead of 2, and changing lenses more often than with option 2; will this be false economy?
    I am an amateur photographer, taking both portraits and landscapes, and sometimes wildlife. As you can understand from my equipment I did not change lenses frequently, and option 2 will keep it that way.
    Of course the dollars and weight count as well.

    I will not ask you about the D7000/D600, since I know you prefer FX to DX, but would appreciate it very much if you could help me out with choosing the most appropriate lens combination.

    Kind regards,


  32. 32) steven
    December 12, 2012 at 2:16 am

    Dear Nasim,

    Thank you for the unbiased, to the point review and constant feedback to the queries. I am curious to know your point of view comparision between D600 and Canon 5D MarkIII. Hoping to hear from you


  33. 33) Jason
    December 23, 2012 at 10:50 pm

    As the Great Ansel Adams said, it’s not the camera but the photographer…. I rest my case. :-) Merry Xmas Everyone!

  34. 34) kt
    December 30, 2012 at 8:42 pm

    Thanks for the article. Your articles are a unique read that I don’t find on any other source and are very informative.

  35. 35) HHVVs
    February 19, 2013 at 4:41 pm All pictures from my site are made with D7000.

  36. 36) Brian
    February 26, 2013 at 2:16 am

    Hello there Nasim

    Are you sure the D600 works with the Nikon UT1 communication kit/UT1 &WT5A?
    If so,have you tried it?
    I’ve looked everywhere.I want to be sure before I buy a D600, that it will be able to use the above.
    I will appreciate your help on this.Kindly let me know
    Btw,keep up the good work.

  37. 37) Thomas Stirr
    March 25, 2013 at 4:39 pm

    As an owner of both the Nikon D600 and D7000 I wondered how the D600 in DX crop mode would compare to the D7000….basically putting 10 MP of the D600’s sensor up against the 16 MP D7000 sensor. I used my Nikon 70-200 f/4 VR lens and did some test shots of some morning doves.

    The higher resolving ability of the D600’s sensor, even in DX crop mode, produced sharper and more detailed images than the D7000 and more than made up for the difference in megapixels. As a result my D7000 is now only serving in back-up mode and I plan to upgrade it with a better DX body later this year….not going to jump on the D7100 right away as I still think that a D400 is coming by the summer.

    I then took a assortment of shots of gulls and Canada geese with the D600 in DX crop mode with the same 70-200 f/4 VR lens. I found the lens focused quickly and accurately when used in D600 crop mode and produced some nice images. I put a short video together of the shots which can be viewed on YouTube.

  38. 38) Radj
    March 27, 2013 at 1:56 pm

    The Nikon d7000 is still a great camera so if you use Adobe professional software you can still make the colours better and maybe there would no diffen,ts between both camera

  39. 39) Carl Moore
    August 6, 2013 at 8:08 pm

    Interesting, default for “P” mode Auto-ISO on D7000 is on, and on the D600 “P” mode Auto-ISO is off.
    Didn’t realize this difference was causing my lower light issues in “P” mode on the D600, as the “P” mode on D7000 was same as the noflash mode.

  40. November 12, 2013 at 8:01 pm

    Thanks for the marvelous posting! I certainly enjoyed reading it,
    you are a great author. I will make certain to bookmark your blog and
    definitely will come back later on. I want to encourage you continue your great posts, have a nice day!

  41. 41) JESUS
    March 12, 2014 at 1:47 am

    Thanks for your article. And today, would you buy D610 or D7100?. Thanks again.

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