While I have not yet received my copy of the Nikon D4, I had an opportunity to test it today and perform some comparisons against the original Nikon D3 and D3s cameras, thanks to my new friend Michael Sasser, who was kind enough to let me use his D4. The purpose of this Nikon D4 vs D3s vs D3 ISO comparison is to show how the new professional D4 compares to the older-generation Nikon cameras in low and high ISO performance. I will start working on a full Nikon D4 Review once I receive it and hopefully will finish it up with plenty of image samples and my analysis sometime in early April (planning a couple of big projects for the Nikon and Canon DSLR cameras).
Some background information for the below crops:
- All photographs were taken in a controlled environment, with a single studio light (octabank, modeling light), placed on the left
- All cameras were set to 14-bit NEF / RAW format, Active D-Lighting, Noise Reduction, Vignetting set to Off
- White Balance: Auto, changed to 3300 Temp, +6 Tint in Lightroom 4 (Process Version 2012)
- Lightroom Settings: Default
- Due to the difference in resolution (16 MP on the D4 vs 12 MP on the D3 and D3s), images from the Nikon D4 were down-sampled to 12 MP for a fair comparison
Here is the full image and the cropped area:
Table of Contents
1) Nikon D4 vs D3s vs D3 ISO 100-800 Comparison
Let’s take a look at how the cameras perform at ISO levels between ISO 100 and 800. Here is ISO 100, which is considered to be the native ISO of the Nikon D4 (LO1 setting on the Nikon D3/D3s):
Nothing too exciting about the low ISO performance of these cameras – each performs extremely well at low ISO levels, even at ISO 800. Let’s take a look at high ISO performance – that’s where we should see some differences.
1) Nikon D4 vs D3s vs D3 ISO 1600-12800 Comparison
Here is how the cameras compare at ISO 1600:
Differences start getting slightly apparent at ISO 1600 – the Nikon D3 has a tad more noise than the Nikon D3s and the Nikon D4, both of which look about the same.
This difference is even more visible at ISO 3200 – the Nikon D4 and the D3s look cleaner than the Nikon D3. I cannot see any difference between the Nikon D4 and D3s though.
At ISO 6400, the Nikon D4 seems to be just a tad cleaner than the Nikon D3s, but the difference is too little – I would say less than 1/3 of a stop. The Nikon D3 is pretty noisy at ISO 6400 in comparison, as can be clearly seen from the crops.
Pushing ISO to 12800 again shows a slightly better performance by the Nikon D4 compared to the Nikon D3s, I would say around 1/3 of a stop. The Nikon D3 crop looks much noisier in comparison, about 1.5 stops worse than the D4.
3) Nikon D4 vs D3s vs D3 ISO 25600+ Comparison
I personally rarely use extreme ISO levels above ISO 6400 on my D3s, but let’s see how all three cameras compare at very high ISOs. Shooting at such ISO levels obviously results in sharpness/detail and color loss, so the images are only usable when down-sampled to smaller resolution, in my opinion.
I cannot really see any difference in noise between the Nikon D4 and the D3s – both look more or less the same, with a little bit larger grains on the D3s – most likely due to down-sampling performed on the D4 image. The Nikon D3 is limited to ISO 25,600, but it looks really bad in comparison. In fact, if you take this Nikon D3 sample at ISO 25,600 and compare it to ISO 102,400 on the D4, both crops will look more or less the same (2 full stops of difference).
The Nikon D3s can also be pushed to ISO 51,200:
Again, very similar performance by both the D4 and the D3s, with slightly bigger grains on the D3s.
Interestingly, this is where the Nikon D4 clearly shows better performance – more details are preserved across the frame. Again, down-sampling certainly plays a role here.
Finally, the Nikon D4 can be pushed to the super high ISO 204,800, which I find unusable:
4) Nikon D4 vs D3s vs D3 ISO Comparison Summary
Looking at the above crop samples, we can see that the Nikon D4 performs very similarly to the older Nikon D3s – the performance differences seem to be rather small. At the same time, we should not forget that the Nikon D4 has a higher resolution sensor with a 4 megapixel advantage. This means that Nikon was able to push the camera’s resolution higher, while retaining the impressive high ISO performance of the Nikon D3s. As for the Nikon D3, it performs well all the way to ISO 1600, but starts to suffer from there in comparison to the D3s and the D4 (especially at ISO levels above 6400, where there seems to be 1.5 to 2 stops of difference).
To be honest, I was hoping for a little more difference in high ISO performance between the Nikon D4 and the D3s. When the Nikon D3s was introduced, it showed significantly better performance than the D3, as I demonstrated in my Nikon D3s Review. Sadly, the Nikon D4 does not seem to be that much better, even after its 16 MP image is down-sampled to 12 MP. While a higher resolution sensor presents better cropping opportunities, which is important for sports and wildlife photographers, it still caps the usable high ISO performance at the same level as the Nikon D3s. I think Nikon fully understood this, which is why they packed other nice features into the Nikon D4 such as better AF system with usable AF at f/8, built-in Ethernet port, higher dynamic range, advanced movie features, better shutter, huge memory buffer and better ergonomics. I will talk about these feature differences in much more detail in my upcoming Nikon D4 Review, but for now you can also check out my previous Nikon D4 vs D3s article.
Stay tuned!
Hello Nasim!
Would you trade a brand new D750 for a D3S (18k shots)? I shoot basketball at 12800 ISO ..
Thanks.
I love your common sense approach to photography. As a hobbyist, I now want to move to a D4 since the D5 has been released.
Crawl, Walk, Run… then Sprint!
Thanks for the article and images. It is comforting to see that I am not missing too much low-light high-ISO performance, after deciding to buy a very-well-preserved, low-shutter-count, pre-owned D3s camera from a local camera store, rather than a Df, or saving longer for a D4-series camera. (I was actually lens-shopping at the time.) I may eventually add a Df to use with my compact AI and AI-S lenses, but active animals and birds are presently a higher priority. I already bought my wife a Df; a very nice little low-light camera, but we do not usually borrow each others’ cameras.
Do you have a low light without flash comparison for these bodies?
I am a Canon user but I always like to read comparison posts between different camera models. Your post is very well explained and organized. I’m an amateur photographer who is teaching herself all about photography (not money to pay expensive courses), and I’ll definitely check the photography tips section. I’m sure it will be very helpful to improve my photography skills. Thanks for sharing your wisdom!
This was very informative as I have been wondering about this, thanks for sharing.
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Hi Nasim,
Thanks for your response. I checked my N70 and it has a 28-80 Nikkor lenses. Can i use this in a DSLR camera ( was thinking of getting a D90) . Which lenses should i go aongwith D90 . Any suggestions ?
Just love this thread! Way back on March 19, I wrote the very first comment! I expressed an attitude at the time that was just a bit anti-D4 as opposed to D3S. A couple of contributors congratulated me on my hesitation to spend big bucks on this “latest technology”, and seemed to indicate that Aussies are not easy for marketers to manipulate.
Well, folks, I have a confession to make. Aussies are just as susceptible to hype as everyone else! A week ago I bought a brand new shiny D4! It came with the 16Gb XQD card & reader, and for the first time in my life I can LOOK like a real Pro — even though I am not!
My decision came down to this: I own a property marketing company and take many thousands of real estate photos per year; this makes my choice of camera tax efficient i.e deductible in Australia; I am 66 years old and feel that when I retire in a few years time, the D4 technology willl still be class-leading and will probably last me as the final camera I will ever buy; having spent many years in the travel industry before I became involved in property (and being a competent writer) I can imagine myself travelling the world once again and submitting words and pictures for publication. (Yes, I know every silly bugger has these dreams but don’t crush me with your scorn!) All of these considerations, combined with the generous reviews of the D4 that have appeared since my original post, convinced me to splash out on my D4.
The D200 body that has lived for five years in my office safe will be sold on Ebay! My trusty D300 will take its place in the safe for the time being.
I have already purchased a Sigma 12-24 f4.5-5.6 DG Hsm 2 to handle my FX wide angle needs; I have ordered a Nikon AF-S 28-300 f3.5-5.6 for my “carry round every-day” needs; and I am battling my wife about the expenditure for the Nikon 70-200 f2.8! I know I can buy the Sigma version far cheaper — but will I be happy?
Thank you Nasim, for the best photo website on the whole web! It offers something to the best of pros, and it offers plenty to enthusiastic amatuers like me!
Mike Butler
Hi Mike,
The D4 is a marvelous camera and I’m sure that you’ll be pleased (if you can get used to the weight…). Having invested in the best camera around, you might want to get a couple good primes so that you can get the most out of your new toy. All of the zooms don’t really cut it in my opinion. If you do any portraits, the 85mm f1.4G and the 105 F2.0 DC are amazing. The 135 F2 is also great, but a little overkill perhaps. If you like manual focus (most don’t), the 180mm F2.8 and 105 F2.5 as well as the 85mm 1.4 AIS are all excellent. Shooting wide I like the F2 28mm AIS or F1.8 Sigma 28mm.
Best of luck!
Yep. The 5100 is a little out of his price range plus it’s one notch towards prosumer.
I love my 24-70 f/2.8. It’s worth every penny for it’s sharpness at close subjects. It is perfect for those shots on net when shooting pro hockey. I can’t wait for the pro hockey season to start this year so I can use it and my D4. The ECHL and PHPA are going to love the shots I’ll be able to get with that kit. :)
I shoot events and my daughters football (soccer) matches often but my real passion is street photography. For this I use the J1, and believe it or not the 24-70mm so that I can get low light performance. As I live in Finland, there is sometimes quite a bit of darkness and being able to capture shots in almost no light comes in handy.
Did you opt-out on getting a D4?
No way man. I even bought mine here in Finland where they are a bit more expensive. I love the auto-ISO feature. It allows me to concentrate more on composition and the action rather than trying to mess with ISO’s. I set it between 100 – 12800, and hit the streets. I love the camera. I literally am having a ball with it. How about you?
Oh man, I LOVE my D4 and am having a blast with it. I don’t use auto ISO that much unless I’m out doors on a day where the sun is peaking in and out of the clouds. I need to do this sometime to see how it performs. I used to use auto ISO on my D7000 and it was pretty good.
What I love most about the D4 is it’s incredible ability to meter a scene. And geez, the detail in dark shadows and in bright sunlight at the same time — I mean, this beast just never looses anything. You discover this in post when shooting in RAW (which I always shoot RAW). The files are clean and like I say, the detail you can extact in post is incredible.
Now, how about a Leica M series camera for shooting street photography? I know those things go for like 7 grand US but I hear they are the perfect street photog camera.
Steve, I can’t be your friend anymore.You’re talking about a camera (Leica) that I am drooling over and I know if you talk fancy to me, I’ll get it. :)
I shoot RAW all the time as well. I have started using Capture NX2 as a processing host. I normally use Aperture and have all the NIK plugins as I really am not a fan of Photoshop. I feel PS is for graphic designers rather than photographers. With Capture NX2, Aperture, and the NIK plugins, I can do things much faster and easier in my opinion. I also found a great panorama tool (Autopano by Kolor) that is amazing. Faster than any paid app I’ve seen.
The “trinity” is ok, but the 24mm F1.4G, 50mm F1.8G and 85mm F1.4G make me dislike my 24-70mm F2.8G and 70-200mm VR ;). The 16-35mm isn’t too bad, pretty sharp for a zoom (I opted for that over the 14-24 due to lack of filters and a lot of glass out front on the 14-24). These days, I only really use zooms when shooting weddings and not having the time/room to zoom with my feet rather than a lens. Other than that, the primes are far superior.
In regard to what camera to get….I would say save up a little longer and get the D5100. If it takes an extra month or two of saving, it’ll be worth it in the long run.
If I were saving up a month or two, I’d just go get the D7000 for $1,200 USD. The 5100 seems a little too plastic feeling for me. The D7000 is an incredible DX sensor camera and proably still is the best DX prosumer camera out there. I still use it as my backup cam.
For what I do, primes just don’t cut it. But if I could use sneaker-zoom at a hockey game, I’d be all over the 50mm :)
Yeah, the D7000 is ok…..friends of mine have both the D7000 and D5100, and personally if I had to use a DX camera, I’d go with the D7000 – but not knowing how long it would take the poster to save up for it, I figured the D5100 would be a more viable choice (has the same sensor as the D7000 anyway).
The 50mm F1.8G is probably the best bang-for-the-buck Nikon lens….like, ever. The 1.8D was a piece of garbage, I never used it and sold it a long time ago. I still shake my head at how well the 1.8G performs when I use it, given the price point. And the lack of sneaker-zooming is why I still have zooms (16-35, 24-70, 70-200 and 24-120mm VR), but I do have the 200mm F2 VR-II on the wish list. That’ll probably be the last lens I get, so I might as well make it a good one :).
I’ve heard the dynamic range on the D4 is really good – that’s about the only thing it has over my D3s that would make me want to upgrade, but I’m going to wait until the D4s comes out and see how that is. I will probably get a D800e first though, as I do more studio work these days.