Great guide. I only recently began to dabble in macro photography. I thought my low keeper rate was part of long-COVID’s weird effects on my steadiness. It’s good to learn a low keeper rate is part for the course.
squarepeg
March 3, 2025 11:44 pm
I’m a newbie to photography and really appreciate the simplicity – yet still technical – aspects of this video. I particularly like the points shown on screen (Visual Learner here). Great for note-taking. Spencer, you have helped me immensely and I can’t wait to view more Macro info. Thank you so much !
Przemek
February 21, 2025 8:17 am
Thank you for this article! I’ve found it very useful when I started out with my macro photo adventure. I only use natural light and photograph subjects as they are when I find them. This means sometimes I can’t get a good angle, but I’ve quickly found out the only downside to this is taking pics I probably won’t publish anywhere, yet I still keep them. I use autofocus to get the initial focus, then keep the focus lock button pressed in and just gently rock my camera forth as stable and slowly as I humanly can. Most of today’s focus stacking software can easily “stabilize” each picture before stitching together, so keeping the subject perfectly in center is not an issue.
Thank you for all the knowledge you share and outstanding photos to look at along the way!
Gene
July 6, 2024 11:36 am
While I enjoyed and learned much from this article, I must admit my favorite part was the advice to avoid “staging” macro photos. It reminds me of the adage of “do no harm” and “leave only footprints”, etc. Respecting the world we live in is essential.
Saipixels
November 29, 2023 6:57 am
Awesome explanation… Instagram.com/sai.pixels for macro photography samples
James
May 31, 2023 8:37 pm
Great job, Spencer! Your piece is filled with informative content and stunning photographs. I was curious about the percentage of photos that were taken with flash, aside from the ones you mentioned. In your article, you discussed light falloff and how it creates a black background in certain images at 1:1 and 1:2 ratios, but in other photos, it appears that different flashes are reflecting on the subjects. For instance, in the jumping spider photo, it seems like you used a dual head and shot at the sync speed. Can you please explain how you balance the flash to freeze the subject’s motion while still incorporating ambient light for the background? Thank you!
toula cassen
December 8, 2022 10:14 pm
Hi Spencer – just finished your first tutorial – and i found it very inspiring . Cant wait to start . About to enter into the wonderful world of MP – what lens would you suggest for an Olumpus EM 10-111
Paul
November 29, 2022 11:37 am
Spencer, thank you very much for writing such a clear and concise article! This is extremely helpful and appreciated. I am looking to upgrade my D7200 with another Nikon capable of achieving better image clarity for very small subjects. Is there an easy way to calculate pixel density (e.g., sensor dimension x total pixels) or anything else (aside from lens) that I should consider with the camera body?
You’re welcome, Paul. I usually just Google “pixel pitch” for a given camera. Smaller is better if you want the maximum magnification (although it’s not important if you’re shooting macro photos around 1:2 or more moderate magnifications).
Pixel density is based on the resolution of the sensor as well as the sensor size. A full-frame camera with 45 megapixels is similar in pixel density to an APS-C camera with about 21 megapixels.
Thank you Spencer! I see the cameras with the lowest pixel pitches are point and shoots. For subjects such as moths, which can require 1:1 or somewhat more moderate magnifications, would you think that a DSLR with a macro lens (e.g. Nikon D7200 with 100mm lens) or a point and shoot with a snap-on macro lens would produce sharper images? P.s., thanks again for writing these terrific articles.
The DSLR by a long shot. Point and shoots are decent at macro photography, but they are well behind the quality you’ll get with a DSLR and a dedicated macro lens.
The D7200 and 100mm macro lens is a great combo. Just remember to get a flash and a pop-up diffuser as well (or make your own diffuser). Getting enough high-quality light is the biggest challenge of macro photography.
Thank you for being so generous with your time and guidance. Your 2020 article on macro photography lighting is terrific. Do you see any benefit of moving to a newer mirrorless from a camera like the D7200 for shooting moths in lowlight early morning/late evening hours? Seems like the magnification would not be as good, but are there other features that could offset this? For instance, is the focus shift on the 6zii/7zii hugely helpful for those interested in stacking?
Dotman
January 16, 2022 11:58 am
Thanks for putting all these gems together in one place on the Internet. All I need to begin to my macro photography journey on a right foot.
Maggie
May 16, 2021 7:20 am
I am a pretty fair landscape photgrapher but would like to get into intentional macro photography…by that I mean I’d like to set up situations and take the images in my home..Water droplets on flowers or captured bubbles in ice..pretty beginner stuff. I notice many photographers on you tube have special metal arms and clamps to help them set up the objects they want to photograph…where do you get these things and what are they called?
Great guide. I only recently began to dabble in macro photography. I thought my low keeper rate was part of long-COVID’s weird effects on my steadiness. It’s good to learn a low keeper rate is part for the course.
I’m a newbie to photography and really appreciate the simplicity – yet still technical – aspects of this video. I particularly like the points shown on screen (Visual Learner here). Great for note-taking.
Spencer, you have helped me immensely and I can’t wait to view more Macro info.
Thank you so much !
Thank you for this article! I’ve found it very useful when I started out with my macro photo adventure. I only use natural light and photograph subjects as they are when I find them. This means sometimes I can’t get a good angle, but I’ve quickly found out the only downside to this is taking pics I probably won’t publish anywhere, yet I still keep them.
I use autofocus to get the initial focus, then keep the focus lock button pressed in and just gently rock my camera forth as stable and slowly as I humanly can.
Most of today’s focus stacking software can easily “stabilize” each picture before stitching together, so keeping the subject perfectly in center is not an issue.
Thank you for all the knowledge you share and outstanding photos to look at along the way!
While I enjoyed and learned much from this article, I must admit my favorite part was the advice to avoid “staging” macro photos. It reminds me of the adage of “do no harm” and “leave only footprints”, etc. Respecting the world we live in is essential.
Awesome explanation…
Instagram.com/sai.pixels for macro photography samples
Great job, Spencer! Your piece is filled with informative content and stunning photographs. I was curious about the percentage of photos that were taken with flash, aside from the ones you mentioned. In your article, you discussed light falloff and how it creates a black background in certain images at 1:1 and 1:2 ratios, but in other photos, it appears that different flashes are reflecting on the subjects. For instance, in the jumping spider photo, it seems like you used a dual head and shot at the sync speed. Can you please explain how you balance the flash to freeze the subject’s motion while still incorporating ambient light for the background? Thank you!
Hi Spencer – just finished your first tutorial – and i found it very inspiring . Cant wait to start .
About to enter into the wonderful world of MP – what lens would you suggest for an Olumpus EM 10-111
Spencer, thank you very much for writing such a clear and concise article! This is extremely helpful and appreciated. I am looking to upgrade my D7200 with another Nikon capable of achieving better image clarity for very small subjects. Is there an easy way to calculate pixel density (e.g., sensor dimension x total pixels) or anything else (aside from lens) that I should consider with the camera body?
You’re welcome, Paul. I usually just Google “pixel pitch” for a given camera. Smaller is better if you want the maximum magnification (although it’s not important if you’re shooting macro photos around 1:2 or more moderate magnifications).
Pixel density is based on the resolution of the sensor as well as the sensor size. A full-frame camera with 45 megapixels is similar in pixel density to an APS-C camera with about 21 megapixels.
Thank you Spencer! I see the cameras with the lowest pixel pitches are point and shoots. For subjects such as moths, which can require 1:1 or somewhat more moderate magnifications, would you think that a DSLR with a macro lens (e.g. Nikon D7200 with 100mm lens) or a point and shoot with a snap-on macro lens would produce sharper images? P.s., thanks again for writing these terrific articles.
The DSLR by a long shot. Point and shoots are decent at macro photography, but they are well behind the quality you’ll get with a DSLR and a dedicated macro lens.
The D7200 and 100mm macro lens is a great combo. Just remember to get a flash and a pop-up diffuser as well (or make your own diffuser). Getting enough high-quality light is the biggest challenge of macro photography.
Thank you for being so generous with your time and guidance. Your 2020 article on macro photography lighting is terrific. Do you see any benefit of moving to a newer mirrorless from a camera like the D7200 for shooting moths in lowlight early morning/late evening hours? Seems like the magnification would not be as good, but are there other features that could offset this? For instance, is the focus shift on the 6zii/7zii hugely helpful for those interested in stacking?
Thanks for putting all these gems together in one place on the Internet. All I need to begin to my macro photography journey on a right foot.
I am a pretty fair landscape photgrapher but would like to get into intentional macro photography…by that I mean I’d like to set up situations and take the images in my home..Water droplets on flowers or captured bubbles in ice..pretty beginner stuff. I notice many photographers on you tube have special metal arms and clamps to help them set up the objects they want to photograph…where do you get these things and what are they called?
Hi Maggie, I see nobody has answered your question. I use a Wimberley Plamp and can it on amazon.