Tokina AT-X 11-16mm f/2.8 Pro DX II

Tokina AT-X 11-16mm f/2.8 Pro DX II

Lens Summary

Brand: Tokina

Also Known As: Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 DX II

Lens Type: Zoom Lens

Format: APS-C / DX

Focus: Autofocus

Lens Mount: Canon EF-S, Nikon F

Release Date: N/A

MSRP Price: $535

Made in: Japan

Production Status: In Production

Lens Description: The AT-X 116 PRO DX-II 11-16mm f/2.8 Lens for Nikon Mount by Tokina is an ultra-wide angle auto-focus zoom lens with a fast f/2.8 aperture throughout the zoom range. The f/2.8 aperture guarantees fast shutter speeds, active auto-focus and minimal blur in low light situations. The AT-X 116 PRO DX-II lens is designed for digital cameras with APS-C-size CMOS or CCD sensors. Its angle of view ranges from 82-104º and it can focus as close as 11.81" (0.3 m). Nine shutter blades in the aperture help to create soft out-of-focus backgrounds and two Super-Low Dispersion glass elements and two aspheric elements help to achieve this lens' excellent contrast, sharpness and minimal chromatic aberration. As an update to their AT-X 116 PRO DX, Tokina has improved the multi-layer coatings to minimize light reflection and improve optical performance.

Tokina AT-X 11-16mm f/2.8 Pro DX II Specifications

Lens Specifications
Lens TypeZoom Lens
Focal Length11-16mm
Mount TypeCanon EF-S, Nikon F
FormatAPS-C / DX
Compatible Format(s)Canon, Nikon (APS-C)
Compatible with TeleconvertersNo
Zoom Ratio1.45x
Maximum Reproduction Ratio1:11.6
Image StabilizationNo
Aperture Information
Aperture RingNo
Maximim Aperturef/2.8
Minimum Aperturef/22
Maximum Angle of View (APS-C or smaller format)104°-82°
Optical Information
Lens Elements13
Lens Groups11
Diaphragm Blades9
Focus Information
Built-in Focus MotorYes
Minimum Focus Distance0.3m
Filter Information
Filter Size77mm
Accepts Filter TypeScrew-on
Physical Characteristics
Weather / Dust SealingNo
Mount MaterialMetal
Dimensions84.07 x 89.2mm
Other Information
Available in ColorsBlack

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Marco Seca

I use this lens since 4 years on D3300. It’s really a great Wide field lens, focus is slightly slower than a Nkikon but picture is really great. It has followed me in many travels essentially for landscape shootings from Europe -America-Asia. The build is really solid, no matter the weather nor conditions and when used at 16mm sharpness is really there. I really like this gem.

a fan

Hi there, I have been following your blog for years and only just saw this article. I bought this lens three years ago and have used it quite a lot (on a D90 body). I have noticed it seems to produce much more noise compared to my other Nikkor lenses, even when using the lowest ISO. It is particularly the case when photographing clear blue sky. If you view the images at 100%, the images taken by the Tokina lens is much noisier than my Nikkor 18-55 kit lens (FYI I normally use F/8-11 on the Tokina lens when photographing landscape.) Any ideas why? I loved it for its wide angle and good value, however the noise issue is really starting to annoy me. I do shoot in both RAW and JPEG but usually only use the JPEG images unless I have a really good one that I want to process in RAW.


I had mine for D7000. I’m sure it’s probably good if used right (maybe I didn’t know how to stop more for better frozen trees, as I mostly shot night landscape with slow shutter speeds of 30 or 20), and I think it did go to FF 14 focal length when used on a FX body. Means you can get same focal length as you can with the 14-24. I think the only downside was, I had to remove my UV filter (dust / lens protector) to reduce vignetting.. that’s how close to limits you’re when using it on FF mode in FX body.

I giving it in a trade for almost equal to what I paid, so I could lower the price of an 16-35. I must say, I’ve been much more happy with the 16-35 I traded it for, being almost identical in weight, though slightly longer, it gets in my bag almost the same way as my Tokina did. 16-35 is said not to be the sharpest lens when it comes to corner sharpness, being much much inferior to the “big daddy” 14-24 which has more of critical sharpness (that lens is 1kg in weight tho, is way too big chunk of glass and the lack of UV filter on front makes me worry too much, so realistically not very accesible lens for many.. also kinda expensive). 16-35 VR is good for slower handheld exposures, but it doesn’t freeze motion like 14-24’s 2.8 aperture does, especially in darker indoors/bars where you really could benefit from that extra aperture. Despite all this, the 16-35 shows very good upgrade when compared to tokina 11-16. On my D800, I think the sharpness was nicely bumped with the purchase of 16-35. Also there’s very good high zoom range to be used, something I didn’t believe in when I read in reviews. It was said that one could use the 24-35 area as a very good walk around the city solution. Only after owning the lens have I come to realization that they were right, it’s indeed very useful to be able to zoom “as far as” 35, which most likely very good for a lens that is a 16 minimum focal length, which is equivalent to DX 11, shorter than DX 18, or the FF equivalent of 24. I think one can’t go very wrong with this lens, but for DX tokina is best bang you can get.


Focus issue… Is it the camera (D5100) or is it this wonderful lens?

I bought this lens less than 2 weeks ago. I realized the it does not autofocus correctly when I use the view finder but when I use the live view the focus is perfect.
I tested the autofocus using its kit lens 18-55. I marked the focus ring so I can compare where it stops on live view and view finder. the focus ring stops exactly at the same spot.
When I tested this lens the deviation in its focus ring is approximately 8 mm rotation. It focused further using the view finder (back focus).
During the test I used a tripod and and set the autofocus so it will focus on the same spot.

Shall I return the lens?


Hey man

I’ve just bought this lens today and I realized I have the same issue as you do.

Autofocus through the viewfinder is really shitty but live view focus is really sharp.

My D5300 does not have AF finetune, and for now my plan is to use live view to focus before switching to MF to lock the focus for my landscape shots.

Did you get this problem fixed?


I had the same issue when used it with D5200, so I return and replace the lens with another copy but again same issue. Looks like its around a year and Tokina still not able to fix it.
Have you guys able to fix your issue or using live view is the only option?


Hey, the d3000, d5000, and d7000 series do not have a focus motor in the body, my guess is to keep cost down. The auto focus lens you buy for these cameras have a built in motor inside the lens, from what I understand.

This lens will only auto focus for the full frame Nikons like the d600, d700, and d800 series.


You are incorrect, the d7*** series does have a focus motor in the body, like the D7000, D7100 and the D7200. you are right only with the D3*** and D5*** series cameras.


Did you buy the older DX version?

Wess Nibarger

Hi guys, – I notice that a couple of you are having the same problem….. I would guess that a quick adjustment to the diopter (small wheel next to your viewfinder that adjusts focus for each person’s individual eyes,) will square you all away. I’ve been shooting for years, but nearly returned a brand new lens recently because I forgot about that. If it looks bad in the viewfinder, but the photos are still in focus when you look at them on the back of the camera, of your laptop, it’s the diopter.