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Home → Photography Tutorials

How to Photograph the Mercury Transit

By Spencer Cox 21 Comments
Last Updated On August 2, 2023

Every so often, the planet Mercury lines up perfectly between the Earth and the Sun. When it does, astronomers and photographers have a relatively rare chance to see and photograph the planet Mercury transiting across the Sun. Today (November 11, 2019) is one of those opportunities. In this article, I will cover some tips and techniques for photographing this year’s Mercury transit.

Although I have never photographed Mercury’s transit before (it was cloudy during the 2016 transit for me), I photographed the Venus transit in June of 2012. It was an incredible sight, especially since there won’t be another Venus transit until the year 2117! Luckily, a Mercury transit isn’t quite as rare. If you miss out this year, you’ll have another opportunity in November of 2032 (though our North American readers won’t have another chance until 2049).

Venus Transit
NIKON D5100 + 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6 @ 300mm, ISO 100, 1/400, f/16.0
2012 Venus transit and sunspots.

Table of Contents

  • When and Where
  • Filters
  • Camera Equipment
  • Camera Settings
  • Safety

1) When and Where

The Mercury transit takes place on November 11, 2019. The transit begins at about 12:35 PM GMT, and it ends around 8:04 PM GMT. In the Eastern time zone, that’s 8:35 AM to 4:04 PM.

In most of the Western hemisphere, the transit stretches from morning until afternoon. In the Eastern hemisphere, it spans the afternoon. To find the specific times in your time zone, you will need to convert from GMT.

The 2019 Mercury transit will be visible in most of North America and Europe, as well as all of South America and Africa. Unfortunately, if you are in Australia or most of Asia, you won’t be able to see it this year. In some places, the transit is cut short by sunrise or sunset. Still, you should have more than enough time to set up for the best possible shots.

20191107_mercury-transit-2019
Copyright eclipsewise.com

2) Filters

The most important part about your kit is the filter that you choose. You can’t photograph the Sun without a proper filter; otherwise, you may burn your camera’s sensor.

I strongly recommend using a solar foil filter made specifically for use with a telescope for visual observation; these will not damage your eyes or camera if used properly. One example is a black polymer filter that is only $20 on Amazon. If you buy it within the next couple days, it should arrive before Monday. This material is fairly flexible, and it it is easy to cut down to different sizes. Add some tape and cardboard, and you can build a filter that works with any lens.

DO NOT use a filter that you are not certain is made for this purpose.  Some filters that block sufficient visible light to make the sun appear dim do not block UV or infra-red light, and you can permanently damage your eyes or camera using them. This includes standard neutral density filters. Never look through the viewfinder without a specialized solar filter, and be very wary of using your camera in live-view even with a strong neutral density filter.

If it’s too late for you to purchase this type of filter online, you may consider trying to find something at a local store. It all depends upon where you live, but some cities have specialty astronomical shops that sell filters like this. Even number 14 welding glass works, assuming you can find a place that sells it.

Mercury eclipse
2006 Mercury transit image from NASA

3) Camera Equipment

Mercury is smaller than Venus and farther from Earth. While some people were able to see the Venus transit even without a telescope, Mercury is decidedly more difficult to photograph. This will prove especially true if there are pronounced sunspots during the transit, some of which may be the same size or shape as Mercury.

From a photographic standpoint, your goal is to get as many pixels as possible on the Sun. The best way to do this is with a supertelephoto lens. The Sun won’t fill your frame with a focal length less than about 2000mm, so feel free to use the longest lens you have. Anything longer than a 300mm equivalent should be enough to see Mercury, although ideally you would use something even longer. If you have a teleconverter, now’s the time for it. The same goes, of course, for an actual telescope with the ability to attach a camera.

In terms of the camera itself, the best ones for this task have a high pixel density. A modern crop-sensor DSLR will work well; so would a Nikon 1 camera with an F-mount adaptor, for example. The camera isn’t as important as the lens, though, so feel free to use whatever you have.

A tripod is almost a necessity, too. At such long focal lengths, the blur from handholding the camera will rob significant sharpness from your photographs. Also, the transit lasts so long that your arms will get tired very early from the weight of a supertelephoto.

One advanced piece of equipment you may consider is an astro tracking head. These specialized tripod heads follow the motion of the sun across the sky (and other celestial bodies like stars and the moon), making for a painless setup to photograph the transit. You don’t need one and can still photograph the sun using a regular tripod head, but it will make your life easier.

And, at the end of the day, you can still make do if you don’t own any of this equipment. A 55-200mm zoom on a crop-sensor camera, for example, will show enough detail for you to see Mercury, albeit not very well. Or, you can even use a smartphone to take pictures through a telescope if you don’t have a DSLR. The quality won’t be very good, but you still may be able to see the transit.

You also could consider renting a long lens for a couple days. The transit will last for seven hours in some parts of the world, which might give you time to visit a local rental house if you hadn’t prepared beforehand! If you rent a lens, get the longest one you can. The Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6 (review) is a good, relatively inexpensive option. So are the similar Sigma and Tamron lenses.

Venus Transit NASA
This is the Venus transit of 2012, not a Mercury transit, but hopefully NASA will get similar photos of this year’s event! Photo from NASA.

4) Camera Settings

Luckily, the Sun is very bright. Even with a strong solar filter, you don’t need to worry about using extreme camera settings. I recommend shooting at ISO 100, an aperture from f/5.6 to f/11, and a shutter speed that gives you the proper exposure (probably around 1/1000 second).

If you’re handholding the camera (not recommended), make sure to use the reciprocal rule to find the right shutter speed. You may need to increase your ISO for handheld shots. Don’t worry about this for tripod-based shots, unless the Sun is moving so quickly that it is beginning to blur in your photos even at 1/1000 second. If that is the case, use a quicker shutter speed and a higher ISO. (This is unlikely unless you are using an extreme telephoto and an unusually strong solar filter – and it’s irrelevant if you’re using an astro tracking head to track the sun’s movement.)

Since Mercury is so small compared to the Sun, it may not be possible to distinguish it from a sunspot in a single image. To fix this, you may choose to take several photographs and layer them in Photoshop after the transit. Align the images, then blend them so that Mercury appears several times in succession across the Sun. The photograph below shows what I mean:

2003-127-10-20-mercurytransit_dierick_big
From Mercury’s 2003 transit, courtesy of Dominique Dierick at NASA APOD

Or, you may consider doing a time-lapse video instead. If you want your audience to know which dot is Mercury, this may be your best bet. If you do, though, an astro tracking head is almost a necessity.

5) Safety

It should go without saying, but the Sun can cause extreme eye damage even if you only look at it for a brief moment. This effect is amplified tremendously if you are looking through a supertelephoto lens. You must use a solar filter while taking pictures. I also recommend that you avoid looking through your viewfinder, even if your lens has a solar filter. Use live-view instead.

Even your equipment is susceptible to damage from the Sun. If you forget to use a solar filter – particularly if you shoot in live-view mode – you run a high risk of burning your camera’s sensor. However, if you use a solar filter properly, there is no significant risk to your sensor, even in live-view.

If you’d prefer not to risk your eyes or your equipment, though, you also have the option of viewing the event live online from NASA TV. Although it’s always fun to see something like this in person, NASA’s coverage will have some interviews and other interesting content that’s worth checking out.

The Mercury transit is a fun and beautiful astronomical event, and this is your only opportunity to see it for a while. Although it isn’t necessarily easy to photograph, I recommend that you give it a try. If you are careful to avoid staring at the Sun, your photographs will be well worth the effort.

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Filed Under: Photography Tutorials Tagged With: Astrophotography, Mercury transit

About Spencer Cox

I'm Spencer Cox, a landscape photographer based in Colorado. I started writing for Photography Life a decade ago, and now I run the website in collaboration with Nasim. I've used nearly every digital camera system under the sun, but for my personal work, I love the slow-paced nature of large format film. You can see more at my personal website and my not-exactly-active Instagram page.

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Michael Zusack III
Michael Zusack III
November 14, 2019 7:15 pm

Spencer,

Wonderful article .
Note – a #14 Welding Glass is for Naked Eye use Only.
NOT for placing in front of an Optical lens of any type .

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Reply
Jan Holler
Jan Holler
November 11, 2019 9:18 am

Oh! I just commented the first comment and then spotted the date: Back to 2016? On the front page there is no text, just the title and ‘more…’ btw.

I once used two circular polarisers to photograph a partial solar eclipse with acceptable results. Let’s you fine tune how much light does go through the lens. First I used a few stacked ND filters as safeguard, but that turned out not to be necessary. Is that a safe method?

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Reply
Betty
Betty
Reply to  Jan Holler
November 23, 2019 3:14 pm

Assuming you’re not using a braille keyboard, the answer is probably yes. 🤪

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Reply
lawrence eastwell
lawrence eastwell
November 11, 2019 3:02 am

I do not want to be sent stuff from your company. Allied, parent or any linked advertiser’s or promoters.if you state it’s easy to unsubscribe. Then make it so. You are messing with my security. My phone is not sophisticated

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Spencer Cox
Spencer Cox
Author
Reply to  lawrence eastwell
November 11, 2019 3:07 am

Hi Lawrence,

We don’t send out much from Photography Life, and there is no allied/parent/advertising company associated with us that sends out anything.

If you signed up for notifications when we post a new article, and want to stop getting them, the process is easy. Just click the “unsubscribe to notifications” button at the bottom right of the screen. If you’re viewing on mobile and it doesn’t appear, you may need to Google how to turn off browser notifications on your phone – something like this: pushassist.com/knowl…-safari-b/

If you subscribed to our weekly email, clicking unsubscribe at the bottom of the email should do it.

Hope this helps!

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Stephen Branley
Stephen Branley
May 15, 2016 10:07 am

Great advice, just a shame you couldn’t do anything about the cloud cover for me….lol :D

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Spencer Cox
Spencer Cox
Author
Reply to  Stephen Branley
May 15, 2016 12:37 pm

Me too, Stephen, it was cloudy all day :(

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Reply
Greg Brown
Greg Brown
May 8, 2016 10:08 am

Thanks for the good advice. I’m on the east coast and will also attempt to image the transit; using an 80mm refractor with a 506 mm focal length, a full-frame DSLR, all on a GEM. Since my telescope is relatively fast, I’ll attempt to increase the effective focal length by using eyepiece projection with a 24 mm Hyperion. This will give the setup an effective focal length of about 1700 mm. Test runs with a white filter gave good results. The Wx forecast is “partly sunny” at my observing location, so conditions look favorable. I plan to try a time lapse, and if it’s worthwhile I’ll post the results on Vimeo to share. Good luck and clear skies!

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Spencer Cox
Spencer Cox
Author
Reply to  Greg Brown
May 8, 2016 11:38 am

Very cool, Greg, feel free to add a link here after you’re done — I’d be interested to see the result, since it sounds like you are well-prepared for the transit!

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Peter Bye
Peter Bye
May 7, 2016 2:52 pm

Excellent, thanks! Yes – that autofocus point placement is what I do when photographing the moon in Live View and it works well. Glad to hear it should work similarly with the sun and the solar filter.

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Peter Bye
Peter Bye
May 7, 2016 2:33 pm

Thanks for the heads up and your incredibly well-written and comprehensive tips, Spencer. I now have a solar filter and am hoping for a sunny day.

The most-dense filter I’ve used is a 10-stop ND filter. With the solar filter is it possible to let the camera (Nikon D7200 for me) autofocus in Live View or is it necessary to manually focus?

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Spencer Cox
Spencer Cox
Author
Reply to  Peter Bye
May 7, 2016 2:40 pm

Yes, it should be possible to autofocus in Live View with the solar filter. You might want to put the autofocus point on the edge of the sun, since that’s the area with the most contrast.

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rayB
rayB
May 5, 2016 5:28 pm

I’m in Australia. Move along, nothing to see here

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Reply
Spencer Cox
Spencer Cox
Author
Reply to  rayB
May 5, 2016 6:12 pm

Ah, that’s unfortunate. It seems that the 2019 transit also won’t be visible from Australia.

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Reply
Paul Robinson
Paul Robinson
Reply to  rayB
May 9, 2016 9:22 am

“I’m in Australia. Move along, nothing to see here”

Not so, mate! If *you* move along (to elsewhere), you’ll see the transit!

OTOH, stay put, and enjoy the wonders of the Southern skies! You get to see so much that none of us poor saps in the Northern Hemisphere do.

You can see Omega Centauri, the most fabulous globular cluster in the sky, Crux, the Coal Sack, the Small and Large Magellanic Clouds (our companion galaxies, visible to the unaided eye!), Alpha Centauri, the Jewel Box, the impressive globular in Tucana, etc.

You also get better views of the Milky Way, including its central regions and get to see Orion upside down!

We envy you!

———————————–

By the way, website owners– the CAPTCHA system you use is the pits! It’s too easy to make mistakes, it takes forever to click through all the photos, they are often dark and hard to make out, many photos are ambiguous, etc. While you may succeed in keeping out SPAMMERS, you are frustrating and irritating real live human beings– even blocking us out!

Definitely time to change it!

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nestor
nestor
May 5, 2016 12:03 pm

Hi spencer.

Thanks for the tip.
With a 2000mm you get the entire frame on a FF DSLR, you need less with a DX or CX.
For the sun I use a Thousand Oaks filter absorbance 4 (not ND4)
And a tip for finding the sun with such a focal lens. If you try the viewfinder with such a small angle of view it is nearly impossible mision, then you try to focos looking the shadows at the lens barrel for a coarse aproach and a fine one. Just point the lens in a way shadows disspears (or otherwise are equal on all sides) from the barrel.

Really, do not try without a good filter, you can ruin either your eyes or yoyr gear, or both.
By the way Abs 4 means 100000 times atenaution, it it the value recommended for photography, for visual observations Abs 5 is the recommended value (1000000 times)

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Spencer Cox
Spencer Cox
Author
Reply to  nestor
May 5, 2016 6:11 pm

Thank you for adding this info!

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Mark Manner
Mark Manner
Reply to  Spencer Cox
May 8, 2016 9:00 am

Hi, the concern with recommending a photography safe (but not visual safe) filter for solar imaging to a large audience not used to dealing with imaging of the sun is that the two filter materials look identical. It is easy to mix up the photo safe one with the visual one, and end up with permanent eye damage. As a result, I suggest using a filter that is safe for visual use, and just deal with the increased exposure times that are necessary. The sun is pretty bright, and at the likely focal lengths most will be using you should be able to get a reasonably short shutter time.
Mark

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Charleene
Charleene
May 5, 2016 10:55 am

I am definitely going to give this a try. Thanks for all the help and info.

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Reply
Spencer Cox
Spencer Cox
Author
Reply to  Charleene
May 5, 2016 11:00 am

Awesome, Charleene, glad you found it useful! Good luck shooting the transit.

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Jan Holler
Jan Holler
Reply to  Charleene
November 11, 2019 9:08 am

I can’t. Its foggy and cloud casted. No sun visible in quite a large area here. Western Europe is overcast.

Spencer: How about using two circular polarizers? I once photographed a partial solar eclipse this way. Worked out quite well.

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Reply

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