How to Get Accurate Canon Colors in Lightroom

Our readers often ask us if it is possible to get Lightroom to provide the same colors as one would see from camera-rendered JPEG files when shooting in RAW format. Unfortunately, as you might have noticed when importing files, Lightroom changes the colors immediately after import, when the embedded JPEG files are re-rendered using Adobe’s standard color profiles. As a result, images might appear dull, lack contrast and have completely different colors. I have heard plenty of complaints on this issue for a while now, so I decided to post series of articles for each major manufacturer on how to obtain more accurate colors in Lightroom that resemble the image preview seen on the camera LCD when an image is captured. In this article, I will talk about getting accurate colors from a Canon DSLR in Lightroom.

Camera JPEG vs Adobe RAW

NIKON D3S @ 50mm, ISO 560, 10/2500, f/4.0

Due to the fact that Adobe’s RAW converter is unable to read proprietary RAW header data, which often contains chosen camera profiles, some settings have to be either applied manually or applied upon import. My personal preference is to apply a preset while importing images, which saves me time later. Before we get into Lightroom, let me first go over camera settings and explain a few important things.

1) RAW File Nuances and Metadata

When shooting in RAW format, most camera settings like White Balance, Sharpness, Saturation, Lens Corrections and Color Profiles do not matter. Unless you use Canon-provided software like Digital Photo Professional, all of those custom settings are mostly discarded by third party applications, including Lightroom and Photoshop. That’s because it is hard to process each piece of proprietary data, which is subject to change from one camera model to another. Now imagine trying to do this for a number of different camera manufacturers!

Let’s go over data that is actually read by Lightroom / Photoshop Camera RAW:

  1. White Balance, as set by the camera. Instead of your chosen value such as Auto, Incandescent, Fluorescent, etc, only the actual color temperature and tint are read from the RAW file.
  2. Common image metadata such as Capture Date/Time, Exposure, Focal Length, Flash, Camera Make and Model, Lens information and GPS coordinates.
  3. Copyright information (“Author’s Name” in Setup Tab 4)

That’s basically it. Now here is the information that is completely discarded:

  1. Picture Style
  2. Lens Aberration Correction (Peripheral illum. and Chromatic aberration)
  3. Color Space (only relevant for JPEG images and JPEG images embedded into RAW files)
  4. Auto Lighting Optimizer
  5. High ISO Speed NR
  6. Highlight Tone Priority
  7. Focus Point Location in the frame
  8. All other settings in Shooting, Setup, Custom Functions and other menus

All of the above settings do not affect RAW files in any way. Whatever you choose in your camera simply gets written as header information to Canon’s CR2 files. Please note that “Long exposure noise reduction” is the only setting that affects RAW files. However, Adobe will still not know if Long exposure noise reduction was turned on or off in your camera.

2) Camera Settings

Because the above settings do not affect your RAW files, they are essentially of no use, so I would recommend to keep them turned off by default. You might be wondering why the image on the back of the LCD changes when you pick different Picture Styles or other settings while shooting in RAW. That’s because RAW files actually contain full size JPEG previews, which is what your camera shows on the back of the LCD. Hence, any change you make in your camera will simply be reflected in the embedded JPEG file only. When RAW files are imported into Lightroom / Camera RAW, the embedded JPEG file is discarded and a new one is generated, based on Adobe’s default settings, or a chosen import preset. That’s why when I talk about getting more accurate Canon colors in Lightroom, we are simply trying to match Canon’s default rendering of colors in JPEG images to those rendered by Lightroom or Camera RAW. Remember, a RAW file is just like unprocessed film – you can interpret and process colors any way you like.

However, changing camera settings can indirectly affect your RAW files. For example, if you have Auto Lighting Optimizer turned on (which simply applies a tone curve to the embedded JPEG image), you might think that you have enough shadow details in your image and you might end up underexposing the image. High ISO Speed NR might make it seem like you do not have much noise in your images, so you might not notice that your ISO value is unnecessarily high. That’s why it is best to turn all custom settings off completely.

Canon has a set of Picture Styles available in its cameras. By default, a camera profile called “Standard” gets applied to images. That’s the Picture Control I typically use on all of my cameras. Whichever Picture Style you pick, I would suggest to stick to it if you want to see consistent colors in your images. And do not worry about modifying custom adjustments within picture controls, since those might also indirectly affect your RAW images as well (for example, setting high values for Contrast, Saturation and Color Tone).

3) Lightroom and Camera RAW: Camera Calibration

Since photographers want to see colors as rendered by their cameras, Adobe ended up creating different camera profiles based on the colors they saw from the rendered JPEG images. The process of creating such camera profiles is fairly complex and it involves shooting different color charts in JPEG format, then trying to match those colors while rendering RAW files. Adobe did a nice job with Canon’s color profiles and re-created all of them (excluding the “Monochrome” profile, since it is not in color and “Auto”). Here is the full list of created profiles:

  1. Camera Faithful
  2. Camera Landscape
  3. Camera Neutral
  4. Camera Portrait
  5. Camera Standard

You can find these profiles under the “Camera Calibration” sub-module in Lightroom, or the “Camera Calibration” tab in Camera RAW, as seen below:

Lightroom vs Camera RAW Camera Calibration

Basically, these match the Picture Styles in your camera one to one. If you set your camera Picture Style to “Standard”, picking “Camera Standard” from the Camera Calibration sub-module of Lightroom / Camera RAW will imitate those exact colors (assuming that additional tweaking of Contrast / Saturation / Color Tone was not performed in the camera).

That’s why it is a good idea to stick to one Picture Style in your camera, because you can set that same Camera Calibration profile to all images every time you import them.

Adobe also provides the ability to tweak individual colors for hue and saturation after applying a profile, but if you choose to do that, it will certainly deviate from Canon’s original colors.

4) Applying a Camera Profile During Import

If you want to always have Canon’s native colors in your images and not the default “Adobe Standard” camera profile, you might want to set up an import preset that gets applied to your images when they are imported into Lightroom. This is a very simple and straightforward process, so let me show you the best way to do it.

  1. First, open any Canon RAW / CR2 file in Lightroom’s Develop Module.
  2. Keep White Balance under the “Basic” sub-module “As Shot”, if you want Lightroom to read what your camera set WB and Tint to.
  3. Scroll down to the Camera Calibration sub-module.
  4. Pick the same color profile as what you have set in your camera (for example, Camera Standard).
  5. On the left panel, scroll down to the “Presets” sub-module and press the “+” sign next to it, which is used for creating a new preset.
  6. A new window will pop-up. Give the preset a name, for example “Import Preset”. The default folder “User Presets” is fine, but you can create a different folder if you want to.
  7. Only select “White Balance”, “Process Version” and “Calibration”, then click “Create”, as shown below:
    Import Preset

Once you do this, a new preset will appear in the Preset menu, under the specified folder. Now all you need to do is specify this preset when importing images. Bring up the Import Window, then look at the right side of the window and expand “Apply During Import”. Click the “Develop Settings” drop-down and pick the newly created import preset, as shown below:

Lightroom Apply During Import

Once you import the photos, every one of them will be automatically changed to the previously selected camera profile, which will match whatever you picked in your camera.


  1. 1) Martin
    October 5, 2013 at 2:54 am

    thank you so much. Did not know it

    • December 23, 2014 at 4:16 am

      I have just stumbled on Nasim’s article. Thank you Nasim, some things are now a bit clearer. However, I have two issues which I would be grateful if you could shed some light on
      a) I have found with several Canon dslrs that flesh tones are pink and wondered if this is specific to flesh, or to other fleshy but not flesh tones as well. More importantly, presumably I could create a is there a preset for import although this may have the efffect of shifting other tones as well
      b) although I get the tones right in LR and they carry through correctly to Photoshop, changing pictures from either LR or PS to Adobe Acrobat changes flesh back to a very strong pink again.
      Any ideas?
      Many thanks


  2. 2) Darrell Wood
    October 5, 2013 at 4:27 am


    Probably my mistake but I thought you were solely Nikon. If you do also use Canon may I ask what is in your bag.

    Best Regards

    • October 7, 2013 at 1:15 pm


      At the moment I do not own a Canon DSLR, but I have used a number of them in the past, including the Canon 5D Mark III. Once I am done with reviewing all Nikkor lenses, the plan is to buy a Canon DSLR and start testing Canon lenses as well :)

  3. 3) Chris
    October 5, 2013 at 4:47 am

    This is great info! could you do one for Aperture? i have the Nikon D600.

    • October 7, 2013 at 1:15 pm

      Chris, Aperture automatically reads this data and applies to images, so you do not need to worry :)

      • 3.1.1) Chris
        October 8, 2013 at 4:11 am

        Hi Nasim,
        This seemed to be the case but ive been having some trouble with my Nikon D600. when i shoot Raw and import it to Aperture, all my images are all dull and dark by almost two stops. Ive search the web and there was a thread somewhere about it too, not sure if its aperture that wrong but when i saw this post from you got me thinking it could be similar.

        If anyone here know what im talking about and know how to fix this please let me know.

        • Eric Bowles
          October 8, 2013 at 4:49 am

          The best way to understand whether your issue is a RAW conversion issue or a camera issue is to shoot RAW+JPEG. The JPEG applies the camera settings and should be pretty accurate if you have optimized camera settings. The RAW image just reflects the processing and rendering of the RAW file with any related issues.

          If you find the JPEG too dark, the problem is your camera settings. Likely this is related to the scene, and you have a bright area in the scene that is fooling the meter. The solution is to simply dial in some exposure compensation.

          If the JPEG is fine, but the RAW image is not, you probably have a problem with the RAW converter. The first place to check is to make sure you have the most recent update of Aperture. Older versions often do not process images from new cameras accurately. You might also have default settings from a different model of camera.

          If some images are correct, and others are not. The most likely problem is specific exposure compensation for your scene. The other likely errors are that you have bracketing turned on by mistake, or that you are using Active D-Lighting – especially if set for Auto ADL. Active D-Lighting can adjust exposure. For JPEG’s and images processed with Nikon software, a curve is applied to offset the exposure adjustment, but Aperture does not apply that curve so it just underexposes the image by up to 1 stop.

  4. 4) Richard
    October 5, 2013 at 5:13 am

    Thanks for the interesting article. I have been aware of RAW conversion problems with Adobe products for some time…especially with their DNG converter for unsupported cameras.

    I may be guilty of being unkind, but I am not as forgiving as you for Adobe’s failure to better utilize the available metadata. It seems to me that Adobe has not worked with the camera manufacturers to the extent they should and that, alternatively, the company fails to open their applications to third party settings as Avid does with their product. (I do not use Avid products so, in fairness, I cannot judge the success of this approach, but it at least is an opportunity to better process the data.)

    This certainly is a matter which might benefit from greater publicity in order to bring pressure to bear on Adobe to allocate resources to improve their products’ performance. Their customers have paid good money and should have the right to expect processing which better presents their images.

    • October 7, 2013 at 1:16 pm

      Richard, I agree – Lightroom should be able to read this metadata info. Not sure why they are not able to do it…

  5. October 5, 2013 at 5:32 am

    Good article.

    One thing to remember is that with “problem images”, using the settings on ingest can make the “problem” worse. I am referring to problem images as images that have high noise that needs to be reduced, deep shadows that need a lot of recovery, excessive blown highlights, or images that will be upsized to a much larger size.

    For these problem situations, importing and applying sharpening, contrast, and auto levels early in the workflow can make the problems worse. Instead, with problem images you may need to apply sharpening, contrast, and levels later in the workflow after the “problem” has been addressed.

    This is a small proportion of all images – just something to be aware of when editing.

    • October 7, 2013 at 1:17 pm

      Eric, thank you for your feedback and insight!

  6. 6) m.barbu1980
    October 5, 2013 at 6:45 am

    I’m surprised. Canon can do a PHOTO CAMERA ? ? ?

  7. 7) Koen
    October 6, 2013 at 4:12 am

    Hi Nasim,

    Nice article but there are some mistakes or false assumption in it.
    1) It is incorrect to assume that the colours on the camera screen are anywhere near perfect.
    The screen is not calibrated and not of a very high quality. So trying to get the same colours from your RAW converter as on the back screen is not doing the images justice.
    2) The best way to get accurate colours from your RAW converter is to build your own profile. This means taking shots of colour cards and running a tool to build an accurate profile. I forgot which one I used for my previous camera. Still have to do it for my new 6D. The reason why this is the best way is because every camera is slightly different.
    Ignore the image on the back of the camera because this depends on how bright the screen is set and environmental light. Use it only to judge composition and exposure.
    3) Adobe’s RAW converter has no problems reading the RAW file but things like Picture style and colour space just don’t mean anything in the RAW converter. They are used to render the JPEG. Not the RAW.
    Also all the modifiers like Auto Lighting Optimizer are for JPEG. You are writing a RAW file which means the sensor data without any modifications.
    So the last thing you want to do is modify that data and corrupt the pure sensor information forever.
    If you shoot RAW, you can simply forget about all these bells and whistles. They don’t matter.
    4) If your images look bad after they are rendered in Lightroom you are not using the right settings.
    With the profile I use the images actually look better than the JPEG after they are rendered in Lightroom. I don’t use the JPEG so I don’t care what it looks like.
    People can make their own profile to taste as you describe in your article.


    • October 6, 2013 at 12:03 pm


      From the 4 items you’ve mentioned above, I agree, but it seams to me that #3 is not quite correct since tests made by DPReview team reveals that shooting in Neutral picture style records more Dynamic Range mainly on the darker areas of the image than the other “styles” (here’s an example from Nikon D7000: ). And it seams that this happens in most cameras I’ve seen tests from. That’s why I think choosing the picture style on the camera DO affects the RAW data recorded (in this case, more detail in the darker areas of the image).

      So, if the picture style doesn’t affect RAW data as you say, why does it affects the data that is recorded?

      And if I’m wrong, please help “us” understand why.

      Additionaly I’d like to read more about this on Adobe’s official documentation but I can’t find it. Do you?

      Nevertheless, and for the above reasons, I’ve been shooting in Neutral picture style since 4 years ago and in Lightroom I apply the same profile (Camera Neutral) on the Camera Calibration panel.

      By the way: as far as I searched in Lightroom, it doesn’t show in which picture style the image was taken. But Bridge (CS5 and CS6) does. It’s called Scene Capture Type under Camera Data (Exif) “panel”.


      • 7.1.1) Eric Bowles
        October 6, 2013 at 1:51 pm

        DP Review uses a JPEG for their analysis rather than a RAW file. Their thought is that eliminates RAW converter issues. In the section you reference, they are specifically looking at a comparison of picture control settings.

        Neutral is useful because it does not add contrast or saturation to the JPEG image used in the camera LCD display. It also is used for blinking highlights and the histogram. Neutral gives you an idea of the dynamic range of the image and since you are using Lightroom, it’s ignored for your RAW processing.

      • 7.1.2) Koen
        October 6, 2013 at 5:34 pm


        As Eric also already mentioned the link you provided is for JPEG images. Picture styles only determine the tonality curve (S-curve) used to render an image from the sensor data to a JPEG. The RAW data is not affected.
        Also note that the dynamic range of the RAW data is larger than what can be represented by a JPEG image. Using RAW gives you a few stops extra working space in your RAW converter.
        I agree with Eric that using the neutral picture style is probably preferred as it doesn’t add excessive contrast and colour to the image you see on the back of the camera. And using neutral in Lightroom gives you a good starting point. Don’t change the way you work. It’s fine.
        The importance of achieving accurate colour is debatable. Almost all of use like to boost either contrast or colour or both a bit to give your images the extra wow factor. Images that are exactly as they were in real life don’t impress much because that’s what people see all the time. You want to bring out some feature that make the image pop/stand out/get noticed and if you do this you change reality anyway. Most of the best images are modified reality and that’s how most people like them because they look different to what people are used to.


      • October 7, 2013 at 1:27 pm

        Carlos, as others have pointed out, those are JPEGs that are affected. In RAW, those pictures styles do not matter…

    • October 7, 2013 at 1:25 pm

      Koen, a couple of things you are forgetting. First, this article is for beginners – it is not meant to talk about advanced color calibration. I only mentioned the word LCD and had the word “resemble” in my sentence. I am well aware of the fact that LCDs are just like any display – they can vary in colors and are not calibrated in any way. The point here is to try to resemble the JPEG produced by the camera in Lightroom when shooting RAW.

      Building a camera profile for each camera is not necessary for most people and simply not practical / feasible for beginners.

      Did you read the article before posting your comment? Judging from what you are saying, it seems like you jumped to the comments after reading the first paragraph…

      • 7.2.1) Koen
        October 9, 2013 at 4:27 am

        Hi Nasim,

        You are completely right. I did not read the entire article because I already know how to work with Lightroom so I may have missed something.
        Apart from a few details a useful post for the beginner to get them on track to getting better images from Adobe software which is not always easy.

        Keep up the good work.

  8. 8) martin
    October 6, 2013 at 5:15 am

    Hi Koen, thats how I understand it as well, I follow you here. If ever you may disclose the profile you use, might be interesting.

  9. October 6, 2013 at 10:01 am

    I have a Nikon D90 and I want to buy a good telephoto lens without spending a fortune what would you recommend and would it be auto-focus on my camera?

  10. 10) Michael
    October 6, 2013 at 8:07 pm

    Hello Nasim,

    Being the owner of a Sony camera, A65, i also have a similar problem.

    Do you only offer solutions for Canon and Nikon?


    • October 7, 2013 at 1:31 pm

      Michael, I will post an article on how to do this in Sony cameras shortly.

  11. 11) darrell
    October 7, 2013 at 2:04 am


    Its good to read all the comments from you guys but as with all blogs on the net how does anyone know they are correct. Can any of you guys find the official statement from adobe on this so we know 100% we are doing the right thing

    The other confusing thing is when importing NEF in to LR it seems to warm up skin tones and make them a little orange, yes I know people say its ok you can set an import pre set to fix it but why should I need to do that . Surely cameras are made to interpret colours in the same way our eyes do so we get the same colours that we saw when we took the picture (assuming our camera is set to neutral and we are working on a colour managed/profiled monitor)

    Isnt LR then supposed to interpret faithfully what the camera saw so the colours stay the same all the way through the process from capture to import

    • October 7, 2013 at 1:36 pm


      The problem lies in reading the RAW file and interpreting the result. Adobe interprets colors their way, while Nikon, Canon, Sony, Fuji and other manufacturers have their own way to process those. Keep in mind that a JPEG image is always a processed image, no matter what camera you shoot with. So colors, tones and other details will ultimately vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and even from camera to camera. It would be ideal if Lightroom could read all the metadata from RAW files, but it does not. Aperture does, but it does not offer other great features like lens corrections. Some people prefer Lightroom, some prefer Aperture, others use other tools. I hope that someday Adobe will find a way to work through these issues and start reading the missing metadata…

  12. October 10, 2013 at 8:48 am

    All good stuff. One additional tip if it hasnt already been mentioned is that you can set the preset to be the default preset on import by right clicking (pc of course) on the preset you created and just click on ‘apply on import’ and that way whenever you do an import its automatically set so no need to use the drop down. You will also see the ‘+’ next to that preset telling you it will be used as the default. Of course I make the assumption that you will always be using the same camera set up the exact same way with that appropriate picture style.

    • 12.1) Tiem Okori
      July 11, 2014 at 1:19 am

      I think that would probably work well, if you only shoot in one picture style. Unless you are creating different presets for each picture style.
      How on earth have I not bumped into this blog. I always wondered why my images suddenly drop, when i import with lightroom. The is my lucky day! :)

  13. 13) Yves
    November 20, 2013 at 5:11 am

    Hi Nasim

    Just want to say thank you for the blog. I enjoyed it and it helped me to explain a few facts more clearly to my friends.

    kind regards
    South Africa, Pretoria

  14. 14) JT
    December 3, 2013 at 7:51 pm

    My limited understanding is that the image you see on the LCD screen on the back of your camera, is an on the fly SRGB based image generated by the camera. Given that SRGB is, what? something like 64,000 tones of color, and that you can process your RAW files in Adobe RGB (something like 2.4 million tones of color I believe) or as ProPhoto (an even larger color gamut), then why would you be concerned about trying to match the relatively limited sRGB representation on the LCD screen of the camera? Why are you deciding that is the standard you should shoot for?
    I’m not arguing with anyone here, and mean no disrespect, but, I’m at a loss to understand this and would like to.

    • December 3, 2013 at 9:15 pm

      JT, you have correct understand. Not only the screens are sRGB, but they are also NOT calibrated. The purpose of this article is not to make the image in post-processing look exactly the same as on the LCD (that would surely be silly) – the purpose is to imitate the Nikon JPEG rendering that is done by the camera. I only mentioned LCD, because that’s what people often relate to when they look at images on their cameras…

  15. 15) Fanny
    December 26, 2013 at 6:11 am

    Thank you so much!!! I thought I was crazy finding such a big difference between LR and my Canon… and now it’s much better thanks to you :)

  16. 16) Jessica
    January 14, 2014 at 7:34 pm

    Thank you SO much! I was ripping my hair out using brush adjustments with only moderate success, knowing there had to be a reason behind the huge difference. This seems to have done the trick!

  17. 17) Denise
    March 14, 2014 at 6:16 am

    Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I’ve been using Lightroom since LR3. I knew there was something that was changing my images from what I saw in the camera to what I ended up with once imported into LR. The images even look right when first imported but within a few seconds they would change (and not for the better). I’m so glad that there is such a simple fix for this. **sigh of relief**

  18. 18) Tamal
    April 10, 2014 at 10:04 pm

    Great article ! I am a beginner, and this was immensely helpful. Thank you!

    I have a question though !

    As a beginner, when I look at a scene, it is very rare that I instantly recognize the artistic composition in it. After a few random clicks, experimenting with diferent picture styles & with auto lighting optimizer, I may get a good shot, which I would like to edit and improve.

    If, I rather use the neutral picture style, with autolighting optimizer turned off, then after a few random clicks, I may not even recognize the artistic potential of a scene, due to the subdued colors and flat tone curve. So chances are, that I may not even spend time and discard such a raw file which could have otherwise made a beautiful picture.

    Additionally could you please tell me what happens if I do check the “Basic Tone” and “Tone Curve” check boxes in the import preset settings dialog? Would it then import the corrections provided by “Auto Lighting Optimizer” to lightroom?

    May I request your suggestions…

  19. 19) Tom_croatia
    May 8, 2014 at 4:22 am

    Hi. I have NEX3N camera. When I chose Camera standard profile, dark blue colors sometimes becomes slightly purple. When using Adobe standard profile then some yellow tones becomes slightly orange but dark blue is fine.
    When using custom Camera standard profile for NEX3N that I downloaded from the web I get similar result like with Camera standard that Adobe provides.

    On camera I shoot everything in Camera standard mode and in Lightroom I cannot use the same preset for all photos if I want to match colors with camera jpg’s.

    Maybe the problem is with white balance. I’m using AsShot option in Lightroom but maybe I should set this to auto?

  20. 20) Yonathan
    June 17, 2014 at 5:48 pm

    Thanks for the article! I wonder, what if I use a custom, downloaded-from-the-web color profile in my DSLR? How do I make Lightroom use that color profile instead of the Adobe or the Camera Standard one?

  21. 21) Esther
    July 6, 2014 at 2:19 pm

    i just strated using lightroom and am really not so good with software and technical details…and since 2 weeks i have the 5d mark iii. i used the pentax k7 prviously. since i use the canon, i noticed the huge difference between what i shot and what came out in lightroom. i have set the camera to adobeRGB. i assume that is a completely differnet thing and does not effect the calibration and getting the right colours as discussed here?

  22. 22) jerry
    July 13, 2014 at 11:14 am

    Thanks for this information. I found it very helpful and useful. I am new to Lightroom and raw photography, and I was frustrated at the quality of my raw images in Lightroom compared to the jpgs produced by my Canon SL1. After applying the info contained in this article to my Lightroom import workflow, my raw images look nearly (if not exactly) identical to the jpgs produced in camera. Using a preset, I was also able to convert my existing raw images to camera standard instead of adobe standard. Thank you again, I appreciate it so much.

  23. 23) Rick
    July 29, 2014 at 5:56 pm

    Thanks for the articile…. The only profile I seem to have in LR is Embedded, I have checked all 3 process choices but no other alternatives appear. I have a genuine paid for copy of lightroom 5.5… Any ideas?

    • 23.1) Rick
      July 29, 2014 at 5:57 pm

      ignore this, I was looking at an old jpg file from before I started shooting RAW :l

  24. 24) Lialala
    October 7, 2014 at 12:18 am

    Hi Nasim,

    Thank you so much for posting this article. I am a professional photographer and still struggling to find the most efficient and best way to deal with color management.

    Initially I only shot raw and had the tedious task of processing thousands of images. Most of the time just slightly shifting temperature, exposure, contrast.

    Recently I have been shooting Jpeg and Raw as I decided that 98% of the time the jpegs are perfectly fine (mostly well exposed in camera). The jpegs hardly require processing and already have good contrast and colour shifts etc. I shoot raw as well for the 2% of cases where something is severly over/under exposed.

    However, this means really double handling things and managing both raws and jpegs. As well as taking up more space on my drives.

    My ideal would be that LR imports the raws to look like the jpegs (except with the added obvious benefits of being raw)…. thus saving me from shooting both file types and much time in processing.

    I thought your article was finally the answer!!! I followed your intructions step by step and tested it by importing images that were shot as both jpeg and raw. I found that nothing at all had changed. The raws still look grey and flat and require significant tweaking to get them to have as much punch as the jpegs.

    I have a 5D Mk III camera, am shooting Adobe RGB, Camera Standard and using LR.

    Could you please advise!! I am desperate to make this work!!!!!


    • October 7, 2014 at 9:03 pm

      Lialala, if you follow everything as described in the article, the post-processing part should work. Just make sure to apply the same camera profile on the camera itself, so that Lightroom resembles it.

      • 24.1.1) Lia Gery
        October 7, 2014 at 9:09 pm

        I promise I did everything exactly! Camera Standard in camera and then once I apply this upon import it says it’s imbedded. But the jpegs and raws still look so different? Is there any way I can email you a sample?

        • waterbear88
          January 12, 2015 at 2:45 am

          use SRGB in LR preferences and calibrate ur display using srgb as well with xrite or spyder tools, follow article above … and finally shoot with srgb in camera as well.. then finally proof ur printing as well..

    • 24.2) Johnny Chin
      October 13, 2014 at 11:08 am

      You can achieve close to the Canon in-camera JPG (with Picture Style look setting) upon importing to LR when using a customized User Preset.
      Now for the bad news … you need to take time to develop that “User Preset” as it varies slightly for each camera’s sensor, even if they are both Canon 5Dmk3 bodies.

  25. 25) Vaishakhi
    November 3, 2014 at 11:33 am

    Thank you so much, this was exactly I was looking for!

  26. 26) Kasia
    March 6, 2015 at 1:59 am

    OMG! Thank you so much! I have Canon EOS 5D Mark III and your article was a huge help to me.

  27. 27) Ed
    March 24, 2015 at 8:14 am

    Thank you. I’m a Pro and didn’t know this. It’s been a great help.

  28. 28)
    April 17, 2015 at 12:35 pm

    Nasim, thanks very much for this article, very but VERY useful !!!!

    From now on ill say goodbye to shooting JPEGs with my Camera. Following your instructions I was able to import RAW files with same color,sharpness,etc as the JPEGs in my Canon 6D. I used Camera Standard, for me I found the best balance. Best part, im working with 16bit and not with 8bit JPEG compressed photos, the dynamic range and the way you can extract those shadows from your photos in RAW or DNG is at another level!!

    Why would you want 12 or 14 bit processing on your camera to edit in JPEG? Editing in JPEG is of bad taste!

    Only negative about working in RAW is that you loose all those built in technologies right out of your camera, like Lens Aberration Correction, Highlight Tone Priority, etc unless you use your camera’s manufacturer sloppy software. But I prefer to apply these in post processing and work in 16bit, rather than relying on the camera and working in 8bit JPEG files. Only use I had for JPEG (right out of the camera, after importing to LR) was to have a better idea of what the picture would look after manually processing it in RAW, or if someone needed the JPEG right away, but then again, what does it take for you to have an export profile to JPEG, select the pics, export, and there you go.

    One thing I added to the preset I built was AutoTone, now I know many of you will tell me thats a no no. But I did tests on some pics and found out that the LR5 autotone is great! That way I have an even better view of my raw files right after import, and when im editing a photo ill just reset the tone parameters, or i’ll adjust the already modified parameters to the feeling I want in the photo. Overall I think autotone gives you an excellent point of start to edit your pictures, you get the same or better viewing experience as when you import JPEGs in LR, but in RAW!

  29. 29) Shaji Manshad
    July 23, 2015 at 8:02 am

    Thank you so much Mr.Nasim for this article

  30. 30) Larry Beam
    August 27, 2015 at 3:19 pm

    does it help to convert my canon raw files to DNG before importing to Lightroom?

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