Choosing a tripod can be an overwhelming experience, given how many different types and choices we are presented with. On one hand, a tripod is a very simple tool to keep our cameras steady when we use them in challenging light conditions. On the other hand, there are so many different variables that come into play when choosing a tripod: How tall should it be? How light should it be? How stable should it be? What kind of weight can it support? How much should I spend on a tripod? These are just some of the questions that might come up as you look into buying a new tripod.
Before getting into the intricate details about tripods, I would like to go over the advantages and disadvantages of tripods and why you might need one for your DSLR or mirrorless camera.
Table of Contents
Why Do You Need a Tripod?
So, what is the purpose of a tripod? You might need a tripod for some or all of the following reasons:
- To increase sharpness and depth of field in your images by keeping the camera still in low-light environments when using slow shutter speeds.
- To rest heavy camera gear such as long telephoto lenses on the tripod.
- To increase the quality of the images by keeping the camera ISO low.
- To allow more careful composition, while framing the shot exactly how you want it.
- To shoot HDR and panoramic shots that require exactly the same framing and precision.
- To photograph nighttime objects such as the Moon, planets, stars, etc. as well as painting with light or using available light for landscape and architectural photography.
- To do self-portraits with a camera timer.
- To shoot extreme close-ups/macro (flowers, insects, etc).
- To hold various objects such as flashes, reflectors, etc.
- To shoot at difficult or impossible (hand-held) angles.
- To shoot vibration-free videos.
- To defend yourself :)
I personally use a tripod for one main reason – landscape photography. Shooting sunrises and sunsets can be quite challenging, especially when the light conditions are far from ideal. Thanks to image-stabilized lenses and now cameras with excellent built-in image stabilization, the use of a tripod for most types of photography is not necessary when shooting in daylight conditions.
However, some photographers still prefer to use a tripod, as it allows them to keep the camera ISO as low as possible, which not only keeps the amount of noise in images to a minimum but also provides the highest dynamic range the camera sensor can capture. In addition, a tripod can help in proper framing of a subject and allow to capture panoramic and HDR images.
Lastly, there are situations where one must use a tripod in order to slow down and blur action, such as when photographing streams and waterfalls as shown in the image below. Therefore, if you are into landscape photography, a good tripod is a must-have tool in the field.

Occasionally, I might use a tripod for wildlife photography (specifically for bird photography), but not during long hikes, due to inconvenience and weight factors.
Tripod Components – What is a Tripod System?
A tripod system is generally comprised of the following parts:
- Legs – the obvious. Tripod legs are typically made of aluminum, basalt, steel or carbon fiber.
- Head – the part that holds a digital camera or a lens. There are many different types of heads, but the most popular types are ball-heads and pan-tilt heads.
- Centerpost/Center Column – a separate leg that runs through the middle, allowing to further raise the tripod head.
- Feet – good tripods allow changing tripod feet at the end of the legs for indoor and outdoor use.
The cheapest tripods have legs with an integrated non-replaceable head and feet and sometimes have a centerpost, while the top-of-the-line tripods have a modular tripod system that have replaceable feet and allow attaching a separate tripod head (the head is typically not included).
Disadvantages of Using a Tripod
Tripods are nice and can give you many options to get the highest quality image. However, there are also some disadvantages of using tripods, specifically:
- They are potentially heavy. Although there are lightweight carbon-fiber tripods out there, once you add a tripod head, the setup can become heavy.
- They are inconvenient. No matter how small and collapsible a tripod is, it still occupies space and is often inconvenient to carry around or travel with.
- They are difficult to use in crowded environments.
- They can be expensive. Good tripod systems can cost over $1,000.
- They can take time to set up, making you miss the best moment.
- You can easily damage your camera and lens if you do not know how to properly operate a tripod, or if the tripod system is cheap and unstable.

Factors to Consider When Choosing a Tripod
You started your tripod shopping spree and have no idea where to start. What factors do you need to consider when purchasing a tripod? As I have pointed out above, purchasing a tripod can be an overwhelming experience, given how many different choices we are presented with from small and compact, to large and heavy. Let’s go through each factor and identify your needs:
Weight Rating
The first thing I would look at is how much weight a tripod can support. Many photographers make the mistake of buying a tripod that can only support a few pounds and is not made for heavy camera equipment. What ends up happening is obvious – at one point or another, the whole thing collapses, destroying the camera and the lens. Always make sure that the tripod you want to buy can support at least 1.5 times more than the total weight of your camera and your heaviest lens. I say “at least” because I prefer to keep it at around 2x more. Do not forget that you will at times apply pressure on your camera and sometimes even rest your hands on the setup if you are shooting with long lenses, which adds to the weight. You might also add a flash or a battery grip to your camera in the future, or potentially shoot with something heavier, so you have to keep all of that in mind.
Tripod Height
I always recommend buying a tripod that matches your height, so that you do not have to bend to look into the viewfinder. Once you put your camera on a tripod, the viewfinder should be at your eye level. It is OK if it goes higher than your eye level because you can always adjust the legs to be shorter. However, if it is much below your eye level, you will find yourself bending all the time, which can be a tiring experience, especially when you are waiting for some kind of action and need to constantly look through the viewfinder.
If you are buying a tripod with an attached head, you want the tip of the head to be on your jaw level. If you are buying a modular tripod with a separate head, make sure that the legs end approximately on your shoulder level.
Another factor to consider is tripod height when it is folded for easier travel. Do you need it to fit in your carry-on luggage? Mine barely does diagonally, with feet removed, and I take it with me everywhere I go.

Tripod Weight and Construction
Weight is a significant factor when choosing a tripod. You do not want your tripod to be too heavy, because you will find yourself leaving it at home, rather than taking it with you on the road. The lightest tripods are made of carbon-fiber material, which is extremely durable, stable and does not rust. While carbon-fiber is the best material for a tripod, it, unfortunately, comes with a high price tag.
The next best construction material is aluminum, which is heavier than carbon fiber. Most cheaper tripods are made of aluminum today. You can also find tripods made of stainless steel, but those are generally used for video equipment and are too heavy for regular use.
In terms of total weight, try to keep the tripod legs without the head under 5 pounds. Generally, carbon fiber legs are between 3 and 4 pounds (but can be lighter or heavier depending on what they are made for), while aluminum legs can be between 5 and 6 pounds and heavier, depending on the size and how much weight they can support. Basalt lava legs are somewhere in-between both in terms of weight and cost.
Tripod Legs
Tripod legs generally come in two forms – tubular and non-tubular. All carbon-fiber legs come in tubular form and have a threaded twist-lock system to secure the legs, while aluminum, basalt, and steel tripods might come in different shapes with a flip-lock. Depending on the maximum height of the tripod, there might be between 3 and 5 sections on tripod legs. The more sections, the higher the tripod and generally a little less stable.
Tripod Feet
Some advanced tripods will allow you to replace tripod feet for different conditions and situations – they just unscrew on the bottom of the tripod legs. There are different types of tripod feet for indoors (rubber or plastic) and outdoor use (metal spikes). Unless you are planning to shoot in icy, rainy/slippery conditions, the standard rubber feet that come with your tripod should work just fine.
Centerpost
Some tripods come with a centerpost – a single leg in the middle of the tripod that allows you to increase or decrease the height of the camera by simply moving the centerpost in upward or downward direction. Although some photographers find it convenient and nice to have, I strongly advise against having a centerpost on a tripod. A centerpost defeats the whole purpose of a tripod – it is essentially the same thing as having a monopod on top of a tripod. It might not be as pronounced if you are only shooting with a wide-angle lens, but once you set up a long telephoto lens, you will quickly understand that using a centerpost will cause too much vibration. If you still want to get a centerpost for whatever reason, make sure that it can fully decline to the same level as where the tripod legs meet. The centerpost should never wobble at its lowest level.
Tripod Head
A tripod head is the most essential part of the tripod system. It is responsible for securely holding camera equipment and controlling camera movement. A modular tripod system does not come with a head and you have to buy it separately. When choosing a tripod head, always make sure that it can support at least the same amount of weight your tripod legs can.
There are generally three types of heads commonly available:
- Pan-Tilt Head – either with a single handle for horizontal movement or dual handles for both horizontal and vertical movement. This is the most common type of head that is typically built into cheaper tripods.
- Ball-Head – compared to pan-tilt heads, ball-heads only have one control that loosens or tightens the grip. They are very flexible and allow very smooth operation while keeping the camera/lens securely tightened.
- Gimbal Head – a specialized head for long and heavy 300mm+ lenses. Compared to pan-tilt heads and ball-heads, gimbal heads perfectly balance the camera and heavy lens and are best suited for fast-action photography. They are extremely easy to use in any direction and do not require tightening the head every time the camera/lens moves.
I started out with a pan-tilt head and eventually switched over to a ball-head with a quick-release system (see next), due to flexibility and easiness of use.

Quick-Release System
Every modern camera comes with a thread on its bottom that allows you to attach it to a tripod or a monopod (heavy lenses also come with a similar thread on the tripod collar). This threaded system makes it extremely inconvenient to attach cameras and lenses on tripods because you have to either rotate the camera or the tripod to attach them together. To make it easier and more convenient for photographers, manufacturers came up with a great solution – to attach a small removable plate on the camera or lens, which then can be tightly secured on the tripod head.
Cheaper tripods come with a simple plastic plate that can be attached to any camera or lens, while some of the more expensive tripod heads come with a more durable plate. The best quick-release system, however, is the Arca-Swiss Quick Release System. It has more or less become a standard among manufacturers and it has proven to be a very effective solution for quick and easy operation. Compared to plastic plates, the Arca-Swiss Quick Release System is made of very strong aluminum and allows attaching the camera/lens on a tripod without the need to rotate anything. A quick-release plate is permanently attached to a camera or lens, which then easily slides into a quick-release clamp (pictured below). The locking mechanism is simple, yet super tight for vibration-free operation.
The beauty of this system is that some manufacturers like Really Right Stuff and Kirk Enterprises offer not only plates for almost any camera and lens but also replacement lens tripod collars, flash brackets, L-brackets, and other accessories for the Arca-Swiss Quick Release System. The only downside of the Arca-Swiss Quick Release System is that it is not cheap – you also have to purchase separate plates for each camera and lens.
Stability
A heavy tripod does not always mean that it is stable. There are plenty of tripod systems out there that are heavy and durable, yet lack the much-needed stability when used in various weather conditions. When a tripod is fully set up, it has to withstand not only wind but also occasional bumps and knocks that might happen in the field. You always need to make sure that your camera and lens balance on a tripod rather than lean towards one direction, because you might end up damaging your equipment if the head is not fully tightened or if the front outweighs the back and everything falls on the ground.

Which Tripod Should you Buy?
Now that you are familiar with all the criteria for selecting the right tripod, you are probably wondering which tripod you should buy for your photography needs. Since I have numerously gone through the experience of shopping for tripods and have seen others do the same, let me tell you what many photographers end up doing. They first look for the cheapest tripod available that will be good enough to hold their first camera, since they have no idea if they really need it or do not know how often they would be using it. The tripod would cost between $75 and $150 for the legs and the head, which is a good price for a simple tool.
Next, they purchase a longer and heavier lens and add more weight to the setup. All of a sudden, they find that the cheap tripod is not good enough and they need something more durable and stable. After making the first mistake, they suddenly realize that they need to do more research and they spend countless hours reading about tripods on different websites and forums. Despite all recommendations from the pros, they are not willing to invest on a top-of-the-line tripod with a good ball-head, so they end up getting a popular tripod system for $300-500 with a separate head. Seems like a great investment and the tripod seems to be much better than the previous one.
After a year or two, they realize that their last purchase was not that good, because the tripod is too heavy and hard to use, especially for traveling. They realize that they should have listened to the pros in the beginning and bought a solid tripod system. Does this sound familiar? It certainly does for me, because I went through a similar experience and wasted too much effort and money.
Other photographers might have a different story, where they purchased an inexpensive tripod they like in the beginning and they are still happily using it today. All it says about them is that they are not using their tripods as much and what they have is good enough for occasional use. Anybody who heavily relies on a tripod (especially landscape and architectural photographers) ends up buying two to three different tripods to eventually end up with the best.

It seems that it is hard to avoid purchasing multiple tripods because it is often impossible to justify the cost of a good system for someone who does not heavily use a tripod. If someone told me that I would eventually spend more than $500 on a tripod system when I just got into photography, I would have never believed them – that’s too much money to spend on a darn tripod! But it all turned out to be true, because I actually ended up spending a lot more than $500 overtime, and I wish I could go back in time and buy the right stuff from the very beginning.
If I recommend someone who has just bought their first DSLR or a mirrorless camera to get the best tripod system that costs between $800 and $1,200, I will almost certainly get a “you are crazy” look, no matter how well I explain my story. Therefore, here is what I would recommend:
- If you currently do not have a tripod and you want to buy one, get the cheapest aluminum tripod system with an integrated head for less than $150 total. Why do I recommend the cheapest tripod? Because you first need to understand how much you will be using it. Six months down the road you might end up doing other types of photography that do not require a tripod or you might find yourself on a path of becoming a good landscape or macro photographer. A cheap tripod will give you enough information to understand the real role of a tripod in your photography.
- If you already have a cheap tripod and you want to get something better, save yourself a lot of money and frustration and get the best tripod with an Arca-swiss quick release system – skip the middle. Some people buy cheaper legs and heads and either find them too heavy or unstable. One common problem with other quick-release systems is the fact that cheaper plates do not grip well on cameras and start wiggling and rotating relative to the base, making it a nightmare for things like panoramic photography.
Best Tripods to Purchase
My tripod recommendations, based on the above, are divided into two categories: “low-budget” (under $150) and “top of the line” (over $500).
Low-budget Tripods (under $150)
Here are the best low-budget tripods under $150 that I recommend:
- Sunpak Ultra 7000 – $69.99. Very cheap, weighs 4.1 pounds (1.9 kg) and can support up to 12.3 pounds (5.6 kg) of total weight. This is very similar to the first tripod I bought for myself from a local camera store.
- Slik Pro AL-324DX Tripod with 3-Way Pan/Tilt Head – $119.55. Although maximum height is too short at only 57.5″ (146 cm), it is reasonably lightweight at 3.8 pounds (1.72 kg) and can support up to 8 lbs (3.63 kg) of total weight. This would be a great tripod to take on long hikes.
- Slik Pro 700DX Tripod with 3-Way Pan/Tilt Head – $139.95. Although it is a little heavy at 7 pounds (3.18 kg), it can support up to 15 pounds (6.8 kg) of total weight and can be extended all the way to 74.8″ (190 cm).
Top-of-the-line Tripods (over $500)
Top-of-the-line tripod systems have separate legs and replaceable heads. Let’s start with the tripod legs. The best legs are made of carbon fiber and manufactured by such brands as Gitzo (top choice) and Really Right Stuff. I cannot really recommend a particular model, because you should choose one that fits your height and weight requirements. If you buy Gitzo, their best and the most stable line is the “Systematic” 6x Carbon Fiber series without a center column. I personally have an older version of the Gitzo Systematic legs that I have been happily using for years and they have never failed me once.
In terms of tripod heads, if you are not shooting with very long lenses, you should definitely go for a ball-head. Here are the best ball-heads available in the market today:
- Arca-Swiss Z1 – $379.95. I have used this ball-head in the past and I really like it.
- Kirk BH1 – $385.00. An excellent alternative to the Arca-Swiss Z1.
- Really Right Stuff BH-55 Pro – $415.00. Another great ball-head that is better in quality than the Arca-Swiss Z1 and Kirk BH1.
- FLM CB-58 – $474.00. Another superb ball-head with great features (see my FLM Ballhead review)
These are all relatively big ball-heads with huge load capacities, which might be overkill for your particular needs. I recommend exploring other smaller ball-heads by the above brands to see if there is a better fit. For example, I personally stay away from full-size ball-heads, because they are huge and heavy. My preference is to use smaller and lighter ball-heads that carry enough load to fit most of my needs, especially when traveling. My personal favorites are the RRS BH-30 and FLM CB-32 – these are the ball-heads I use most often for my work.
If you are shooting with long and heavy lenses, your best choice is going to be the Wimberley Gimbal (top choice) or the much smaller Sidekick (requires a solid ball-head to work).
There are many other cheaper and more expensive brands out there that manufacture very solid ball-heads, but I’m not going to list through them all in this article.
One more thing worth noting is that some of the higher-end tripods sometimes come with a hook under the platform. Those can be useful to hang a backpack or a sandbag for additional stability, but you have to be careful when shooting in windy conditions, as it can move the weight and potentially cause even more camera shake.
A Good Tripod is a Life-Long Investment
Unlike cameras and even lenses that come and go, a good tripod is a life-long investment. If you buy a good tripod that is easy to disassemble and reassemble, chances are, you will be able to easily clean and even repair it yourself without having to send it anywhere. Well-known tripod manufacturers will provide long-term service and repair options in case any part of the tripod malfunctions or breaks. This way, you do not have to worry about replacing your tripod in the future…
Remember, with tripods, you often get what you pay for! Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments section below.
As an engineer, I need to be convinced with actual stability data before I go out and shell $150-$800 for a tripod when a $50 one will do. I have searched the internet for that kind of comparison, but I have not found anything except glorified opinions. Can anyone lead me to any unbiased field usage comparisons? My current tripod is the Vanguard Espod CX234ap, a $50 one that seems to be well constructed and sturdy for a camera set up less than 7 lbs.
Hi Nasim, this was a really interesting article about tripods. I have a CANON 400D SLR and recently bought a Manfrotto 190ALU TRIPOD 4S. Big mistake, it was so heavy and I really am an amateur. But worst of all the screw fitting did not fit my camera, it was far too big. I thought the fittings were universal. I bought my camera in New Zealand but now live in the UK. Do you know if there is a difference between the screw fittings on cameras bought in NZ or Australia and those in the UK. I was able to return the tripod. Any advice would be so welcome. Thankyou.
Huh, very enlightening article. I’m on the market for a tripod and had no idea where to begin – this was very helpful. I knew a cheap one wouldn’t do – I had the “pleasure” of trying a friend’s cheap tripod and it’s completely useless, a waste of space. The entire things is so unstable, and the head is just dreadful, completely unsuitable for the purpose. So I kinda got the idea that a better one will probably cost me, but these price tags are eye-watering. What exactly costs THIS much in a tripod, I wonder…? I mean, for $1000 you can buy a camera… Hard to imagine that producing three legs and stable/sturdy locks and joints costs the same as producing an image sensor, some basic lens, and a camera body.
I love the way you organise your thoughts and experiences in such simple way. It is definitely easy to follow and won’t require much effort to read as compare to some other articles. Very helpful advise!
I recently purchased a Nikon 24-70 f/2.8E lens that weighs 2.5#. My next purchase is a tripod. will I need a gimbal head or will a ball head be sufficient?
Thanks,
Gwen
February 24, 2021 12:45 am
Hi
omg just read the tripod info & omg
I used a WF -6663A tripod which was highly recommended by digital camera warehouse at Canterbury NSW Sydney ) for the 2nd consecutive time by the staff & how lucky my camera did not smash . The clip also does not lock , it’s loose & it too wobbles ..I was photographing recently both day & night & the tripod wobbled badly with a bit of wind & rain … it was useless . My camera is : Nikon D810 , Lense N 24-120 mm .
I need strong legs for wind. I need solid tripod for wind & weather. And one that can handle weight . I’m 5” 6” tall.
I need a real tripod that will not budge on bad weather & can handle the weight of my camera & Lense on any angle ! Very important for dynamic photos for me ! ***very important
—can you please tell me the best complete tripod for this . With every part needed ! And now the tripods come with so many different parts , omg please assist
I must do night photography …. landscapes , bridges .. day & night ..
At some point when I have funds I will buy extra lenses ( more total weight possibly needed & to be factored in when considering the type / style/ make of the new tripod ) & upgrade to the Nikon D850.. thank you kindly
Hi
omg just read the tripod info & omg
I used a WF -6663A tripod ( highly recommended by digital camera warehouse for the 2nd consecutive time by the staff & how luck my camera did not smash . I was photographing both day & night & the tripod wobbled … it was useless . My camera is : Nikon D810 , Lense N 24-120 mm .
I need strong legs for wind. I need solid tripod for wind & weather. And one that can handle weight . I’m 5” 6” tall.
I need a real tripod that will not budge on bad weather & can handle the weight of my camera & Lense on any angle – very important
—can you please tell me the best tripod for this . And now the tripods come with so many different parts , omg please assist
I must do night photography …. landscapes , bridges .. day & night ..
At some point when I have funds I will buy extra lenses & upgrade to the Nikon D850
—
A very informative article, but I’m wary of buying an expensive tripod head before I’ve tried a low-cost equivalent. I have various tripod heads in the cupboard that I don’t use because the style doesn’t work for me. I find a conventional ball head very frustrating, trying to level the horizon at the same time as setting the focal point on my chosen spot. But my conventional pan-and-tilt head is very bulky to carry, and I didn’t get on well with Manfrotto’s 460MG Magnesium Camera Head. I no longer use anything that isn’t Arca-Swiss compatible, and now only use the UniqBall version of a ball head, and a geared head particularly for macro. I’m relieved I never wasted much money on a top-quality ball head – for me the approach of buying cheap to see if it suits me has worked better. (If it does suit, but has shortcomings, yes, buy a top-quality replacement.)
When I use the hook under my tripod, I connect my camera bag with an adjustable loop of bungee cord, so that the most of the weight of the bag is on the tripod, but it’s still resting on the ground and doesn’t swing in the wind.
I’ve read other advisers claiming that carbon fibre damps vibrations in a tripod much better than aluminium, and I’m inclined to believe that.
Chris Newman
Nasim
Great article but I am still not sure what I need. I have a Nixon D750 with 24-120 mm lens and also use a sigma 200-600 mm. I am interested in night photography and wild life and am going to the Kruger National park in June. Can you give me some suggestions on tripod and accessories I should consider.
Canon DSLRs are great cameras to shoot with but I do need to ask myself why I need a professional tripod before I buy one so that I’ll know what to buy. I should also probably research on tripod components such as the ones you mentioned so that I’ll know what works best for my photography visuals. If I look for tripods from a good online store, I’ll be able to tell how heavy the weight rating is for the camera model I have.