How to Build an Affordable Photo Studio

Creative studio photography can be both challenging and rewarding. In the beginning, when we just start taking the first baby steps to improve our photography skills, we always start out by utilizing available light. It does not take very long for most people to figure out that it can be extremely difficult to create beautiful photographs in low light environments, especially indoors. Naturally, we start looking for answers on how to get around the low light problem and we end up buying faster lenses and better cameras. Only to find out later that even better and more expensive camera gear cannot properly capture a badly-lit scene. The last resort then becomes flash photography – a subject that scares the heck out of many photographers out there.

Flash Photography Sample (4)

NIKON D3S + 70-200mm f/2.8 @ 98mm, ISO 400, 1/160, f/8.0

Being in photography business, I met numerous professional photographers that have never touched flash. They call themselves “available light shooters”, because they have never explored artificial lighting. Some of them could not do it for financial reasons (unfortunately, it is quite common among pros to think that flash photography is extremely expensive), some were too afraid or too busy to try, others felt like they never needed it. But what do you do when you come to photograph a wedding with a badly lit ballroom, extremely high ceilings and a mix of tungsten lights? Are you going to walk away from the job or come back with really bad photos? Most photographers are going to mount a speedlight onto their cameras (in Auto/TTL modes), point the camera at the subject and take pictures that will look no better than bride’s cousin with her $100 point and shoot. And when their flash dies after firing 20 shots, they will blame Nikon for making a bad speedlight that overheats. Sounds familiar?

Flash Photography Sample (3)

NIKON D700 + 85mm f/1.8 @ 85mm, ISO 200, 1/200, f/8.0

If you are getting paid to do photography work, it is your responsibility to know how to work in various lighting situations. And the best way to learn flash photography and get good at it, is to continuously work and experiment with it. Building a small, affordable photo studio at home is a great way to get started. You can learn a lot just from photographing your family and kids at home. That’s how I got started with flash. Even if you do photography for fun, why not experiment and learn something new? Wouldn’t it be nice to know what to do in challenging light? In this article, I will show you how to build an affordable photography studio at home. First, we will go over some basic, must-have tools and then we will expand into more options for studio lighting. And if there is enough interest, we will expand our coverage of flash photography to indoors, outdoors and studio environments.

1) The Light Source

The very first thing you will need to decide on, is what light to go with. A dirt cheap way to get into studio lighting is to use continuous “hot” (tungsten) or “warm” (fluorescent) lights. You can buy two light stands with umbrellas and continuous light for roughly $100 combined. But this kind of setup has its own problems (more on the subject in a separate article) and it certainly won’t teach you how to deal with those low light environments outdoors or in locations where a power source is not available. If you have interest in continuous light, I would recommend to get into it after you learn how to use flash. Then you will know exactly what you need and you will be able to get the best out of your equipment. Many high-end studios utilize continuous lights, because they can shape the light exactly how they want it. Precision and consistency is often required for professional studio photographers. But for someone like you, who is just starting out, there is no need to get into that territory. At least not yet.

So despite its relative complexity, I would encourage you to learn how to use flash first. We have some basic tutorials on flash photography, which we will be expanding on in the upcoming months. Now here are the bad news – this will be the most expensive part of the purchase. “Speedlights” or “Speedlites” (depending on whether you use Nikon or Canon), are compact flash strobes that can be used for both on-camera and off-camera setups. If you own a DSLR or a higher-end mirrorless camera, you have a hotshoe on top of the camera that is designed to be used with speedlights. For an on-camera setup, you mount a speedlight directly on the camera and you can use the flash head in various configurations to bounce the light (see my very old video on indoors flash photography, where I go over various bounce configurations). For an off-camera setup, you take the speedlight off your camera and mount it on light stand to be used away from your camera. This is the configuration we will be using for building your first studio.

The nice thing about speedlights, is that they pack enough power for most day to day needs – from lighting a single person to a group of people. They are also expandable – you can start out with a single speedlight and add more flashes in the future for more creative photography. For now, we will start with a single light setup.

All major DSLR manufacturers make speedlights that are proprietary to their cameras. Nikon calls its flash system “Nikon Creative Lighting System” with lots of built-in automation. Canon and Sony also have their own comparable flash systems. All three provide different options for speedlights – from basic to high-end models used in commercial photography. Nikon currently offers three speedlight options for DSLRs: SB-400, SB-700 and SB-910. If you are wondering about differences between these, take a look at my Nikon Flash Comparison article. Since we are building an off-camera setup, skip the SB-400. The SB-700 currently sells for $326 and the SB-910 is $546. While SB-910 packs a lot of great features, it is an expensive flash unit. Personally, I would start out with the SB-700 and if you ever need to trigger it with a different trigger system such as PocketWizard, you always have the option to buy a cheap hot shoe adapter. The SB-700 is a pretty advanced – it can be used both as a “master” or a “slave” unit. For a single light setup, the cheapest way is to use the SB-700 in an off-camera configuration and use your built-in camera flash to trigger it (see this article on using your pop-up flash in commander mode). If you have an entry-level Nikon DSLR, then you have several options. The first option is to buy a commanding unit like SU-800. The second option is to buy a set of PocketWizard Plus III units (my personal preference, since radio technology is better than infrared), which will cost you $50 more (plus the cost of adapter mentioned above), but will give you a much more flexible and robust setup. This is one of the reasons why it often makes sense to buy a higher-end DSLR with commander capabilities.

If you own a Canon DSLR, you can start out with the 320EX or 430EX II speedlite units, both of which can act as “slaves”. Many of the newer Canon DSLRs such as the 7D also have the capability to act as flash unit commanders. If your Canon DSLR supports this, then you do not need to purchase a commander. Otherwise, Canon also provides the ST-E2 commanding unit, which is similar to Nikon’s SU-800. Canon recently released a set of speedlites and triggers with radio transmission capabilities, but it is very expensive.

Total Cost: Between $250 to $550.

Flash Photography Sample (2)

Canon EOS 5D Mark III + EF50mm f/1.2L USM @ 50mm, ISO 100, 1/200, f/5.6

2) Light Stand, Umbrella and Adapters

Similar to cameras, there are all kinds of light stands out there to choose from. For triggering speedlights in a controlled environments, I typically pick the most affordable light stands I can find. My favorite brand is Impact – they make great lighting gear that often beats even top of the line products in quality, reliability and features. And I certainly cannot complain about the price! You do not need anything heavy duty for triggering speedlights, so get the 6′ Impact Light Stand for $20.

Next, you will need an umbrella adapter that will sit on the light stand – it will hold both your speedlight and an umbrella (to soften the light that comes from your flash). The best affordable “two in one” adapter is the Impact Umbrella Bracket with Adjustable Shoe for $25. It is of excellent quality and it is in no way worse than an equivalent adapter from Manfrotto.

The last is the umbrella itself, which again is very cheap. Impact’s 45″ convertible umbrella for $15 is excellent.

If you are building a two light setup, consider buying the Impact Digital Flash Umbrella Kit, which is currently on sale for $70. It is a steal at that price. But it comes with smaller umbrellas and a lower-quality umbrella bracket.

Total Cost: $60

3) Background Support System

A background support system is not necessary, if you are willing to do some extra work. You could use a white bed sheet or a colored muslin as your background, which you can hang off your walls. But if you want something nicer and portable (say for taking it to photograph corporate clients), then I would also recommend to buy a good background support system. We have already reviewed a couple of background system and I personally find the Impact Background Support System to be of great value (see my review here). Savage also makes a really nice “Port-A-Stand” support system and it is a little more expensive than Impact’s.

You will need a couple of other things with the background system. First, you have to decide whether to buy paper background or muslin. Personally, I prefer paper, since it is smooth, cheap and if it gets dirty you just cut the dirty piece and roll down more. Plus, you do not have to worry about wrinkles and ironing. On the flipside, it takes a lot more storage space. I would start off with 53″ Super White and 53″ Gray paper. If it proves to be too small for your needs, you can get larger 107″ versions for bigger projects or group shots.

Don’t forget to get a couple of adjustable clamps for holding the paper.

Total Cost: $155

I consider these to be the most basic tools you can get started with. Later on, once you start getting into more advanced flash techniques, you can start exploring better light modifiers, shaping tools, flags and other tools for total control.

Flash Photography Sample (1)

NIKON D3S + 70-200mm f/2.8 @ 85mm, ISO 800, 1/100, f/2.8

Once you get to know how to use flash, you can utilize it in any environment and shape it however you want!


  1. 1) Satish
    December 12, 2012 at 11:12 pm


    Great article. Can’t wait to see your hands-on review of nikon 70-200 f4 lens. Hope it is coming out very soon?

    • December 12, 2012 at 11:57 pm

      Satish, it is coming, as soon as I am done with at least some of the mirrorless stuff I have right now. I got screwed with the 70-200mm delivery and I now have to wait for the next batch :( Meanwhile, some local friends have it and I will see if I can borrow it for a few days for testing.

  2. 2) Bob
    December 12, 2012 at 11:22 pm

    Satish, you forgot to snap your fingers and say ‘gimme’. What an unappreciative and demanding reply on your behalf. Sheesh !

    • December 13, 2012 at 12:00 am

      Bob, that’s all right – I promised to do a review ASAP, but with all the gear I have in my hands and a screw-up on B&H’s part, I now have to wait for the next batch…

    • 2.2) Satish Inuganti
      December 13, 2012 at 2:06 pm

      Bob, I think you are reading wayyyy too much into my reply! But again, I did not intend to be demanding by any stretch of imagination. But if it came across that way, Nasim, I apologize. I have just been eagerly waiting to see what you have to say about it before I buy it :). I am a great fan of your reviews and regular visitor of your site ever since I came across it.


  3. December 12, 2012 at 11:26 pm

    Very useful article Naseem, I’ve been wanting to read something like this for a while now, thanks for the useful points.

  4. 4) unventurecapitalist
    December 12, 2012 at 11:44 pm

    but what happens after a few 100 shots, wont the reliability falter of most, if not all of these what appears to be inferior lower cost products, or am i a slave to high priced name brands?

    • December 12, 2012 at 11:56 pm

      Been using Impact equipment for a number of years now and nothing broke so far…there are superb products out there with great value. Would I buy an Impact light? No, but why not save some cash on everyday accessories? :)

      • 4.1.1) unventurecapitalist
        December 13, 2012 at 1:07 am

        I do understand savings, trust me! As far as things go, here is my list of ebay bought items, at max savings! One Nikon D700, one sharp Nikkor 85mm 1.4 AIS manual focus lens, one Nikon SB-28 flash, very capable! One Nikkor 24mm f/2.8D AF very sharp, some off brand stands, some cords, sync plugs, white and black muslin’s, flash gels, and other items, at very decent prices, and very capable, and low priced! my lame point was, and is, if someone is working at what is considered professional paid jobs, wouldn’t a little more spent on a bit more quality items makes sense, but that’s not the point of this article, so never mind my query, sorry!

        • Profile photo of Nasim Mansurov Nasim Mansurov
          December 13, 2012 at 1:24 am

          Ah, I see what you wanted to say :) Well, maybe I will do another post on a high-end photo studio – stuff that pros rely on every day. Then you will see that it is not so cheap! A set of good lights alone cost between $3K to $5K. Add some light modifiers and other high quality stuff and we are already in the $10K range :)

  5. 5) Bob Gobeille
    December 12, 2012 at 11:59 pm

    Hi Nasim,
    I love your articles but I question the value of your (higher end) setup. Using your numbers for SB-910, hot shoe adapter, pocket wizard III, stand bracket umbrella I get $707. But speedlights have their limitations (and advantages like portability). The biggest limitations for me are slow cycle times and AA batteries that have to be changed (once) during a 2 hour shoot. But for $50 more you can get into what I consider a pro system from Paul C. Buff. An Einstein, 13′ heavy duty stand, 64″ umbrella, front diffusion fabric, radio triggers, and carrying bag, all for $750 (1/2 the price of the two light setup at This gives you a much more power, very fast cycle times, wall pluggable, a modeling light, easier to configure system (the Einstein’s have a very simple setup), larger better quality umbrellas, and a big stand. Though a battery will run you $240 if you don’t have a wall socket. There are other differences but I didn’t mean this to be an Einstein review. I just wanted to point out that people should check out other options if they find the $707 affordable.

    • December 13, 2012 at 12:12 am

      Bob, I did not recommend the SB-910 and said that I would go with the SB-700 instead (for a beginner, the SB-910 is too expensive in my opinion). It can be used as a master and a slave and a cheap adapter can make it work with PocketWizard units. PocketWizards are not necessary for a simple infrared setup either – they are only needed when dealing with softboxes and daylight situations. The reason why I recommended speedlights over monolights, is because they do not require external power and are extremely portable. Why start with something heavy and potentially hard to use, if you can go for a very lightweight setup? :)

      For a person who is just starting out, a speedlight is a great accessory to have. Add a compact light stand and an umbrella and you could do some great work anywhere. The setup you are recommending is without a doubt something I would personally prefer over a speedlight for serious work. But for everyday stuff like photographing family and kids, I would not want to deal with all the headaches that come with real studio lights.

      For commercial work, I personally favor Elinchrom and Profoto. Yes, expensive, but consistency, reliability and quality of light are superb. And if I were on a smaller budget, Paul C. Buff is what I would do without looking back. Certainly worth the praise. I have used Alienbees in the past and I absolutely loved them!

      • 5.1.1) Bob Gobeille
        December 13, 2012 at 12:51 am

        All good comments Nasim. No question about the portability of speedlights. However, I’m not sure what you mean by “potentially hard to use”. Perhaps the Elinchrom and Profoto’s are, I don’t know. But the Einsteins are simple to use. Much simpler than the menu system on my SB-800.

        It would be interesting to compare the consistency, reliability and quality of light between Elinchrom, Profoto and Paul C. Buff. A lot of work for three excellent products though.

        • Profile photo of Nasim Mansurov Nasim Mansurov
          December 13, 2012 at 1:32 am

          Bob, when I said “hard to use”, I did not mean knowledge-wise. In fact, speedlights can be sometimes more painful to use than good studio lights. I meant to say “hard to physically use”, meaning they require some set up time, especially when dealing with bigger light modifiers. I hate taking my Elinchrom set up out, because it takes a while to set up and take down. While with a flash, it is pretty much effortless in comparison…

          As for comparing the three brands, that would be an interesting test. But it needs a good testing methodology – some high end spectrometers and other good stuff. Perhaps I will do it one day! In all honesty though, many of the “high-end” lighting systems are way overpriced. For the amount of studio work I do, I should have bought Paul C. Buff instead…would have been money better spent! :) Who cares about consistency and quality, if you use it once or twice a year? LOL!

          • Bob Gobeille
            December 13, 2012 at 8:58 am

            You are a very good judge and your experience lies in Elinchrom so I take your word for the Elinchrom effort. I remember you bringing one to the flash lighting class of yours (I took last summer). But in my experience with both the Einsteins and speedlights, it takes virtually the same amount of time to set up each.

            I wish you had left out the sentence about “Who cares about consistency and quality” because you are implying that they are missing from the PCB products. I don’t believe that’s what you meant.

            • Profile photo of Nasim Mansurov Nasim Mansurov
              December 13, 2012 at 3:27 pm

              Bob, I should stop writing past midnight, because I am having a terrible time explaining things :) What I tried to say was, high-end lighting companies often lead people to think that their products are of higher quality and consistency. Without a doubt, they have great products, but when you factor in the cost, there is a point of diminishing returns. Think of it as Bugatti Veyron vs Nissan GTR. Nissan GTR is by no means a bad quality car. It represents superb value when you compare it to Veyron in terms of horsepower and cost. The same deal with PCB vs Elinchrom/Profoto. Both have their own appeal and both are of excellent quality, but at completely different price points. Looking back, after trying out Alienbees, I wish I bought them instead. Because they represent great quality product at excellent value. Now if studio photography was my bread and butter and I wanted to showcase prestigious equipment to my clients, then perhaps I would have preferred higher-end lighting systems. But even then, I would have done better analysis and research before making the purchasing decision. For most people, PCB is the way to go in my opinion.

  6. 6) Philip Hymas
    December 13, 2012 at 4:18 am

    Dear Nasim,
    I love reading your articles and look forward to Photography Life mails. I am sure that many of your avid readers, like me, live in other countries than the USA. For us, feet and inches are antique measurements and we all use the metric system. Would it please be possible to put your measurements also in metric so we don’t have to get the calculator out to understand ? After all, you wouldn’t describe a 50mm lens as a 2 inch lens would you ?
    Thanks and continue with all your great articles,

    • December 13, 2012 at 3:33 pm

      Philip, I was born and raised in USSR, so I am way more comfortable with the metric system myself :) However, since everyone in US relies on the imperial system, I often have to go with the flow. When I go to a store in the US, I still go by meters, which confuses the heck out of sales people. They have to pull out calculators to understand me :) Despite the fact that everyone in the world uses the metric system, US has no plans to convert. Not even close. So I am going to have to juggle between the two worlds somehow! But you are right, I should mention units in the metric system as well, understanding that we have a lot of readers outside the US…

  7. 7) Graham
    December 13, 2012 at 4:46 am

    Could you please comment on the finding that Nikon ‘Commander’-controlled flashes emit a pre-release that leads to the subject blinking? Is there a narrowing of the pupils too?
    Please expand your helpful range of articles to cover more, simple-to-erect and easily-portable lighting techniques, say for portraits when visiting a stranger’s home.

  8. 8) Alen Ajan
    December 13, 2012 at 8:13 am

    Salam Nasim,

    What do you think about Phottix Odin TTL Flash trigger ?

    Can you compare it against PocketWizard ? I have read some reviews and the most are very positive.
    As I consider you a great expert who gives practical advices, I would like to see what’s your opinion upon that :)

  9. 9) Alvaro
    December 13, 2012 at 9:19 am

    Nasim, this is a great review for beginners, thanks for sharing for knowledge. I have both the SB-700 and the SB-910 and use them both, usually the 910 as main and the 710 as fill, using either the commander mode or some cheap YN triggers depending on the circumstances and distances.
    I consider myself a beginner in flash photography and continuously strive to improve my skills, so please keep sharing your expertise.

  10. December 13, 2012 at 11:47 am

    Great article. There is another cheap option for triggering your off-camera Nikon SB-700/910 with an entry level Nikon that doesn’t support commander mode. You can put the flash in “SU-4” mode which turns it into an optical slave which you can then trigger with the camera’s pop-up flash. You’ll also need to put the pop-up flash in manual mode to get rid of the pre-flashes, and maybe put a Nikon SG-3IR ($12) on the camera to remove the pop-up flash’s influence on your photo. Works like a charm and the optical sensor on the Nikon flashes is very sensitive. You do lose i-TTL (and thus have to manually set the flash power) but manual flash isn’t hard, it’s worthwhile to learn, and it’s a lot cheaper than buying PocketWizards.

  11. 11) Russell
    December 13, 2012 at 1:05 pm

    AAuugghh! Why use either of those terrible, proprietary names for a flash. “Speedlight” or “Speedlite” are both ghastly terms, and longer, than a name we already had for these items: “Flash”. Simpler, shorter and cross-brand!

    “depending on whether you use Nikon or Canon” – ignoring, and maybe putting off, any other-brand users from reading your site?

  12. 12) Randall
    December 13, 2012 at 1:45 pm


    Great article. I was scared to death but I ordered a pair of elincrom dlite 2 strobes with airport ($600) with remote and some muslin backgrounds. The strobes forced me to learn how to use my camera in manual. Now I am comfortable and love manual mode. Its much easier then I once thought. Also developing the studio shots are forcing me to shoot raw and now I’m using Lightroom. I think we sometimes need to go outside our comfort zone to learn new things!!! Again great advice and great piece!!!

  13. 13) Satish
    December 13, 2012 at 2:19 pm

    Hi Nasim,

    I have a SB700 flash but I am planning to couple of Yongnuo YN-560 II Speedlights (NO TTL). Have you had any experience with them? Do you recommend them or any other similar alternatives for flashes? Photography is a hobby for me and enjoy taking pictures of my family and enjoy playing around with flash photography. My silly aim is to not to go a studio ever for portraits :)


  14. 14) Patrick
    December 13, 2012 at 7:20 pm

    I think you need to do another workshop for studio lighting!

  15. 15) David B
    December 13, 2012 at 9:54 pm

    Great Article, Nasim, I have never heard of Impact brand, but, just ordered a $69 tw0-umbrella kit you posted about. Great value in my opinion, who could not use two extra stands with umbrella adapters and umbrellas. I wish it came with a FREE bag too, since my photo gear is starting to take too much space, as my wife states. Thanks to you, I spend $70 on something I may rarely use, but hey, I am a sucker for a good deal

  16. 16) unventurecapitalist
    December 14, 2012 at 12:30 am

    Nasim, You are an excellent host! Thank you very much answering my confused questions! Thank you again, for an excellent article, and for a very useful website, that has the ability to answer every query, regardless of how annoying the poster may seem, or be, a very difficult feat! I will continue to read the many useful articles here, and learn as much as I can possibly absorb to become an understander of all things photography! The Nissan GT-R included answer above is another reason why you are awesome as well! As far as the metric system goes, I am proud to be antiquated, and I am thankful you do not resort to ignoring the apparent minority! We use can’t today instead cannot to avoid time consuming writing, however, cannot, will not, are not, is not, has not, and many others, are not that much different than isn’t. Thanks again, sincerely, Americo!

  17. 17) unventurecapitalist
    December 14, 2012 at 12:34 am

    Hey look, this article has made way for others helping others, and for getting out more article ideas!

    .1)I think you need to do another workshop for studio lighting!

    .2)Great article. There is another cheap option for triggering your off-camera Nikon SB-700/910


    • 17.1) unventurecapitalist
      December 14, 2012 at 12:35 am

      3.)Great article. There is another cheap option for triggering your off-camera Nikon SB-700/910 with an entry level Nikon that doesn’t support commander mode. You can put the flash in “SU-4″ mode which turns it into an optical slave which you can then trigger with the camera’s pop-up flash. You’ll also need to put the pop-up flash in manual mode to get rid of the pre-flashes, and maybe put a Nikon SG-3IR ($12) on the camera to remove the pop-up flash’s influence on your photo. Works like a charm and the optical sensor on the Nikon flashes is very sensitive. You do lose i-TTL (and thus have to manually set the flash power) but manual flash isn’t hard, it’s worthwhile to learn, and it’s a lot cheaper than buying PocketWizards.

  18. 18) aNikkorGuy
    December 14, 2012 at 12:39 am

    unventurecapitalist aka aNikkorGuy says, I have another contribution as well, if I am permitted to add a link? I found this at my other fave website, NikonCafe, as memeber, aNikkorGuy, it is free lightroom presets! I think they are mostly LR3, and some 2 and 4’s as well! These are fun, free, and very helpful to anyone, especially to those afraid of processing, as I was!

    • 18.1) aNikkorGuy
      December 14, 2012 at 12:42 am

  19. 19) Dave
    December 14, 2012 at 8:02 am

    I’ve been following your blog for a little while before you went to PhotographyLife and this is the first time i’ve posted, so i’d like to stary by saying thanks for all the great posts!

    So, I recently have been getting more into lighting and was able to relate to this post.

    I was a little suprised when you mentioned Pocket Wizard for radio triggering on a budget setup! I feel that that is way to expensive and more then what a beginner would need for radio triggers… I started with the Yongnuo RF-603’s and they’re perfect for a beginner. It forces you to work your flashes off camera in manual. Granted it dosent have many features, but for $88 I was able to get 4 transeivers and 8 AAA eneloops! Cant beat that.

    I’ve since upgraded to the Phottix Strato Multi II’s and love them, but they’re twice the price for half as many devices (one transmitter and one reciever cost me about $90). For me, the AF-assist and the groups was the killer feature. Now Yongnuo has some triggers out that allow remote manual control if your flash supports it…

    I also disagree with the flash recommendations a little. I have Nikon’s SB-700 and love it. It does everything i need my main flash to do. I would like to have more of them, but they’re expensive. I have two Yongnuo 460ii’s as manual slaves. At a little under $50 a piece, i can gang up a few of them if i need more power or faster recycle time. I could almost get 7 of them for the price of another SB700!!! more realistically i’d get 3 flashes and 3 recievers for one SB700.

    I’m all for brand name when it comes to Nikon. I recently got the 24-70 f/2.8 and absoultly love the quality of the lens. Instead of getting a sigma or tamron version and then upgrading it later, i’d skip the step, save some money and go all out. But for flash, there’s a lot you can do with cheaper flashes… Again, i say this now, but maybe next year i’ll have changed my tune as i’ve learned more…

    I’ll definitely have to check out the Impact brand, i’ve been using Cowboy studios a lot lately.

    Thanks again for the great post(s) and keep up the great work!

  20. 20) David B
    December 24, 2012 at 10:36 am

    Thanks to Nasim I got the two-umbrella combo from B&H and already tested it on shooting my wife and her younger sister. Turned out great!!!! Looks like people are enjoying these….

  21. 21) Laise Passos
    February 8, 2013 at 2:04 pm

    thank you for your great articles! I’m an amateur and flash photography freak me out! Was wondering how was the set up of the wedding picture above , how did you positioned the flash? ( was it an umbrella ??) how far it was?
    thank you.

  22. 22) Tirz
    June 6, 2013 at 8:25 pm

    Thanks for the article.

    I found this groupon deal for studio light. I have not started with flash yet, as you recommended. But I thought since the deal is now, I can already buy it for later. Is it worth it or should I just wait?

  23. 23) Sandeep
    June 10, 2013 at 10:15 am

    You did not mention SB-600 though it is reviewed positively in nikon flash review. Is it not compatible for off camera shoot?

  24. 24) Luzye
    September 21, 2013 at 3:15 pm

    Thank you for this helpful article! I am about to order PCF and Impact equipment for the first time!

  25. 25) Dana
    December 17, 2013 at 8:02 pm

    What is your opinion on the Vivitar 285hv. These little work horses will cost $85.00 each and are dependable and powerful. For about $225.00 you can get 2 of these 2 umbrellas 2 stands and a cheap radio trigger. For a beginner these are a good deal. No ettl. but then neither are mono lights;)

  26. April 13, 2014 at 7:39 am

    Thanks for this post Nasim, I’m brand new to your site and I find it amazing. I’ve been using strobes for more than a year but always willing to learn and the tip of the backdrop choice will really help me now that got plans to get one.
    Greetings from Colombia

  27. 27) Shabeer Haddad
    June 4, 2014 at 11:24 am

    Thanks for the tips, But i still need more information about professional flash photography. Waiting for more and more tips about flash photography.

  28. 28) Derek
    January 12, 2015 at 12:55 pm

    I recently watched your flash photography tips and you seemed to have no problem with having flash guns on tripods. Two days later I watch ‘studio lighting’ tips from Northrup who highly recommends using modelling lights/beauty dishes and says flash guns on tripods suck and people shouldn’t be putting flash guns on tripods! Can I have your opinion on his comment, please?

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