In response to requests from comments on my earlier article will address shooting High School sports. I have specialized in sports photography for years, shooting almost every High School sport played in Florida. Please note, I am semi-retired, and though I do sell some photos, I don’t make a living at this. These tips are for people looking to shot sports for themselves, their family and friends (and maybe the occasional sale).
You must first determine which sport(s) you are going to shoot, and the location(s) involved. Unfortunately most High School venues are poorly lit, so a camera with a High ISO capability is almost always a necessity, unless you restrict yourself to daytime events. The next necessity is fast glass, f/2.8 or faster (though there are exceptions). Some sports can be shot with a flash, in which case slower glass can be used. A decent sized buffer is always a plus, otherwise you have to be very careful when shooting bursts.
Shots taken inside have different issues than those done outside.
Taken outside in the rain. The fast shutter speed “freezes” the rain drops.
My bad, as a faster shutter speed would have made the impact of the club and ball clearer.
Is the above iron-clad? No. I have shot night time soccer using a D3S with a 300mm f/4, plus a D800E with an 85mm f/1.4. This required me to be moving around a lot, especially when the players came close, as I would have to back up to keep them in frame. So always be sure to pack a couple of water bottles along with your kit. You can be on your feet for a long time (I once shot a 13 inning baseball game without a break), and getting dehydrated is no fun.
Access to the sidelines is best, but may not be available at all locations. Check with the school, coaches and officials. Have a professional looking business card to show you are a serious photographer (even if you don’t intend to make sales, you at least give them the impression that you are a serious photographer). Understand and work within their rules and restrictions. Giving the school a few pictures for their yearbook also helps earn you a place on the sidelines.
If possible, work with two cameras. One with a fast zoom (like a 70-200 f/2.8), and the other with a smaller and faster lens (like a 50 f/1.8 or faster). Working with three cameras can be done, however I have always found that to be too cumbersome. I personally use a harness to hold the heavier camera+ lens combo, and carry the second combo using the regular camera strap.
A rare double header, however;
The ladies proved they can do it too.
Some sporting events are impossible to shoot by yourself; such as Track and Field. Multiple events (for example: Long Jump, Track and Discus) are frequently happening simultaneously. It is like trying to shoot a five ring circus by yourself. The best you can do is shoot parts of each event.
Try for shots fans can’t get from the stands. This was taken during warm-up.
I shoot in NEF, normally 14-bit lossless, and process in DxO Optics. While some cameras are better than others in their JPG processing, and shooting JPGs will increase your buffer capacity, the poor lighting conditions are best corrected by processing raw files.
My night time settings (these will vary some depending upon conditions):
I shoot in Manual mode, with the lowest possible f-stop, and try to use a shutter speed of at least 1/800th of a second. Too slow of a shutter speed introduces subject blur, and/or camera shake. You can mitigate camera shake with VR, however that drains your battery. I use Auto ISO and set my cameras to between 1/3rd and one full stop above the lowest STD ISO for each camera.
For focus always use AF-C. One advantage of the new D810 is the menu option that allows me to turn off the AF-S option, so I can’t accidently switch during a game (which I did once during a basketball game). I normally use either Single Point or 9 Point focus, though the new Group Area Focus option on the D810 appears promising, and I plan to test it on a night time football game this week.
If shooting in NEF, turn “OFF” all in-camera corrections: Auto distortion, Active D-Lighting, Vignette control, Long Exposure NR and High ISO NR.
Miscellaneous tips:
Before leaving home: Format your memory cards. Your memory cards should be high-capacity and speed (and always have some spares). Make sure your batteries are fully charged (and have spares). Clean your lenses and/or filters. If shooting multiple cameras, sync their time settings. When you combine the pictures together, and sort by time shot, they will automatically sort in order. Turn Image Review “OFF,” and Rotate Tall “ON.”
While shooting I use the Storage Folder menu option to help keep track of which half, quarter, inning, etc the pictures are taken in. When I download to my computer, I copy the folders and the pictures, so that they are automatically sorted into each appropriate time frame. Combining the pictures into appropriate folders from the two cameras is simple.
For file naming I use a six digit number for the date (YYMMDD), followed by a dash, then a three digit number which tells me the sport and level, followed by another dash, then either a four or five digit number for the shot within that time frame (for example: a first quarter shot might read 141001-222-1095. Looking at this number, I know the year, month and day shot, that it was Boys JV American Football, and the 95th shot of the first quarter). If the middle three digit number had been 706, then it would have been from a Varsity Girls Soccer game. Feel free to use any naming criteria you wish, this is what works for me.
Know the area and people. In some places it may be okay to leave you camera bag alone, but in others you might find this too risky. Using a backpack for your gear can eliminate this worry, but does increase the load you have to walk around with.
Unusual shots, such as this violent collision, are also good to capture.
A successful steal of home. The ball had barely even been pitched, and is not in the picture.
Have fun. This is a lot of work, but can be very rewarding (emotionally at least), plus you never know when you might capture that special shot.
This is an article i’m going to save. I have been doing high school sports for only a few months now, working for a newspaper in a smaller community. I find that manual mode with auto-iso has been a gem so far. That being said, I’ve only had to do outdoor sports so far, that are all during the day. What is your plan of attack when you shoot indoor sports like basketball, volleyball or wrestling? or football and soccer at night?
Hi Dylan. I have just read this article and agree with you – it’s the most useful I’ve read so far. I also use manual and the auto iso. I’m using a Nikon d850 for soccer with a Sigma 160- 600 sports lens which has been fantastic. I sit on a low stool between the goal and the corner post and just follow the ball. I’m trying the Nikon 70-200 lens for a night game tomorrow but I’ll have to do that from the side line and focus on getting some good shots of the goalie and defenders. Good luck!
Great blog! I just got into high school sports photography with a Canon 5D Mark III, 70-200 f2.8L. Have not used 2.8 much worrying about DOF being too shallow. But after seeing some of your photos I am going to try more. Like one of the commenters, I also found high school swim meet lightning to be poor. I’m considering to buy a 50mm f1.2 but not sure if the 1.2 would have enough DOF to be useful. After all, I don’t want a picture where only the swimmer’s tip of the nose is clear! :) Any thoughts? Maybe I should rent first…
Try a 50 f/1.8 instead of the f/1.2. Please note: I am not a Canon shooter, so am not sure what lenses are available. Using f/1.2 gives you plenty of light, but the DOF could be a problem. You could check on this website: www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html to see what the DOF will be. I find it a useful site.
WEJ
Hello,
I just purchased the 70-200 lens which I love & am teaching myself to use the manual modes, which has been challenging… i like to take pics of evening soccer games with stadium lighting & also indoor basketball & volleyball
any tips are greatly appreciated!!!
my camera is cannon
Hi William,
I love your all your articles. I shoot sports in Australia. Rugby, Aust rules and Netball in winter – Athletics in summer. Not much at night but occasionally the Athletics is on a Friday night. However, its summer and daylight savings means most of it is ok.
I sold my D3s as it was too heavy for me really. I am thinking of getting a D810 ( I also do weddings so a D810 could also be used ) as its buffer size seems great and if I shoot in DX mode I reduce the file size and since I spend a lot of time cropping, I think it would be a good compromise. My only concern is all the talk about not getting “sharp” photos unless this camera is on a tripod etc. Like you, I move to the action so tripods/monopods is unusual for me . Down here I can get a used D4 for the same price as a new D810 which is the other less preferred option. How do you find the D810?
In certain ways a tough call, but based upon your not liking the weight of the D3S, I would say go with the D810. The D4 is similar in weight to the D3S, and has advantages over the D3S (more pixels, etc). The D4 is better suited for sports, BUT there are the following to consider:
1) Have big of a field are you covering with the camera? For example, a D4 with a 70-200 lens give you a reach (AoV) of 70-200 with 16 MP, while a D810 with the same lens, if shot in DX mode, give you an AoV of 105-300 with 15.5 MP (damn close to the 16 of the D4).
2) Weight. Again, you did not like that of the D3S. If you want the same reach with a D4 that you achieve with a D810 in DX mode, then you will also need bigger (and therefore heavier) lenses. Price out a Sigma 120-300 f/2.8 lens, and also check out its weight. A heavy combo, and even worse on a D4 then with a D810.
3) Focus. Here the D4 will probably win out. It is a sport camera.
4) Buffer. Again the D4 will win out, but just how big of a buffer do you need? If not the full sized one of the D4, then it makes no difference, and the D810 at least ties on this point.
There might be other points to consider, but that should at least give you a start. You could (if they do in your area), try renting a D810 and see how it works for you.
Sharp hand held pics with the D810 are not a problem, as long as you have good glass and a fast shutter speed. Practice your technique, and you should have no issues with that. I do think a D4 would have more “keepers”, but just how many do you need? With a D800E I shot Polo matches, and easily had hundreds of keepers from a single match (and the same amount with Soccer, American Football, plus other sports).
Personally, if I could buy a D4 for the same price as a D810, it would be very tempting, however the weight issue might still keep me from doing so. I have owned both a D3S and a D3X, and they do get heavy after a while. I am not getting any younger, so a lighter camera helps.
As another option to consider, there is the new D750. I have yet to try one (so far I have been able to keep that GAS attack at bay), but the reviews show a lot of promise for that camera (except for the buffer issue).
Good luck, let me know what you finally decide on, and how well it worked for you.
WEJ
Thanks for the prompt response William.
I really appreciate your insight and advice. I realise I just need to buy the D4. I did sell the D3s for weight but have regretted it all the same. Given the D4 is slightly lighter and now at the same price I paid for a D3s a year ago – its a better investment. Usually up to 300mm is fine so DX is not a requirement and if it is I can always move :). Just looking for an excuse to get that D810 like many!!
I’ve just come across this great article and it’s good to see so many comments.
I’m an avid amateur sports photographer and I cover many of these exact points in some YouTube videos I do to teach others how to setup and shoot sports photography.
William, is it possible to contact you directly as I have an idea for another blog you may want to write in conjunction with this?
I sent a reply earlier directly to your E-mail address, however I have received no response. Trying again. I am home after my trip to Oregon. You may contact me at [email protected], or call me at 352-817-0689.
WEJ
I have a MARK II Canon and I also have the pro lens 70-200. I will be shooting my first football game from the side line this year at night? What settings would work for this environment? Any advice is much appreciated.
Have not shot with that camera, however try these settings:
1/640 or 1/800th of a second. You can sometimes get away with 1/500th, but I would never go slower than that.
f/2.8
Auto ISO limited to 6,400 (8,000 max). I don’t know the limits of that camera.
Canon version of AF-C (continuous focus), use Single Point, and keep the focus point on the chest of target (not the head!).
These are night time settings. If part of the game is in late afternoon, can shoot either faster shutter speed and/or f/4.0.
Read also my article on this website “High School Sports Photography Tips”.
Hope this helps.
WEJ
Oops! I meant to say read my “Photographing American High School Football” article on this website.
WEJ
I am new to your website…do you have any articles on night shooting….what settings work best. Thank you!
This is Nasims’ site, not mine. I am just one of many guest posters. I would advise you to check the different categories to see if there are any titles that directly your needs. When you say night shooting, you might also need to be more specific: Astro Photography, Night-time Sports, Street Photography, etc. There are a number of different types involved. For sports, this article addresses some of the issues, plus the other article I mentioned.
WEJ
With all due respect…
The most important skill any photographer should start with is checking how busy/destructing the background is. You can have the most expensive gear in the world but if you do not move around the field to find the best spot with the least destructive background, you are screwed. If you cannot find such a spot, then you will have to minimize the impact by minimizing the depth of field. There should not be pictures of a player in front of a crowd where you can barely distinguish the subject from the background.
Then, composition! All the composition rules still apply. Thirds, diagonals, space, moving into the frame…
Also, the sports pics do not have to be so static. 1/800 kills the action completely. I find it fine to have a ball or a golf club (or rain drops) to be blurred as long as they are not the subject of your pic. And panning really makes difference.
Oh, and monopod is REALLY your friend!
I am sure there are parents who’d still buy pictures of their children where nothing above applies, but let’s be honest – would it make us proud photographers?
Soccer mom / amateur photographer
I am not against using monopods, except from personal experience. When shooting sports I move, a lot, and a monopod becomes a trip hazard for me. If you are in a static position, then certainly use a monopod. Blurred photos are a matter of choice. I prefer frozen subjects: Catch the player in the air, the ball and the bat in contact, etc. You can get away, sometimes, with 1/500th of a second (perhaps even slower), but I prefer to never shoot slower than that. Remember, I am not only trying to freeze the action, but also to prevent focus blur caused by lens shake. The longer the lens, the faster the shutter speed should be (again, as you say, this can be prevented by using a monopod).
The rules of composition always apply. I did not address them because that is a detailed subject of itself, and there are other articles on this website about that. That being said, if I am taking a picture of someone making a catch, I can not know where to stand in advance to get the best background. I am moving around with the action, players (both on and off the field), coaches and officials are moving around, and I would much rather get a picture of the player making the catch, then not take the picture because of the background. I can always NOT use the shot, but I can’t get an instant replay from another angle. You pick your poison and drink your drink. Personal preferences are just that. I respect and understand your choices, these are mine.
WEJ
What are your thoughts on using a monopod to help steady the camera for some of the longer focal length lenses. Or do the very fast shutter speeds negate the need for one. The shots you posted are very sharp indeed.
A monopod will help with longer focal lengths. The longest lens I have shot handheld was the old 80-400 (a D3X and that lens used on Horse Polo). The long primes (300 f/2.8, 400, 500, etc) are usually too heavy for extended handheld shooting periods. A few quick snaps, and unless you are Hercules, your arms are quickly tired without a monopod.
The fast shutter speeds I use helps me to reduce any blur. With the 70-200 I try to never go below 1/500, and depending on light I will gladly go 1/1,250 or higher. Because I don’t sell these pictures to magazines, I don’t worry so much about using a higher ISO. Night games are the real issue. I can only shoot so slow of a shutter speed, and a longer lens is more apt to blur if I shoot at too slow of a speed. That is when I would use a monopod.
I own a couple of monopods, but seldom use them, and never for sports. I prefer the ability to quickly move, and to me the monopod becomes an impediment. My shooting style is to try and get the entire player in the frame, as opposed to tight shots that only show part of the player. Nothing wrong with tight shots, it is just my personal preference on action shots. Consequently, especially when I am shooting with two prime lenses, I move around a lot. You have to shoot in a style that works for you, your equipment and environment.
I hope this at least partly answers your questions.
WEJ
Hi,
I wondered, if I were to shoot sports for my high school what settings/what should I do? For reference, have a Nikon d5200, 50mm F/1.8 G Lens and 55-300mm F/4.5-5.6 Zoom Lens.
Thanks a lot!
For night time sports, the 55-300 lens is very limited. You would need to look for places that have decent light. What particular sports would you be shooting?
The 50 f/1.8 works good for sideline shots, or close to you shots, even in low light, and is a 75mm AoV on the D5200. If you can stay away from having to crop (much if any), and don’t plan to print large (or at all), you may be okay.
I have not used the D5200, so am not familiar as to how well it will perform. All of my cameras are FX (I have owned and shot DX cameras, but I prefer the low-light performance of FX cameras).
For settings, especially with the 55-300, try to keep your shutter speed at no slower that 1/500th of a second (you can sometimes go slower, but you start to introduce motion and camera blur). Keep you f-stop as low as possible. Auto ISO. Use most of the settings I mentioned above in the article. If shooting JPG, and not planning to do much if any post-processinig, then turn “ON” High ISO NR, Auto Distortion and Vignetting. You might also turn on D-Lighting.
Without more details (which sports, lighting conditions, your expectations and experience), not much more I can say at this point.
WEJ
Thank you so much! It was really helpful.
Good article. I’ve taken high school and college football pictures for local newspapers many years ago, and I’m going to give it a try again but this time with a digital camera. There’s only one thing I’ll not do that you suggest: I’m going to shoot JPGs instead of RAW. My shots will be used in newspapers, not art shows. I think shooting RAW for football games is overkill, but I’ll take a few for my own comparisons with JPGs.
It can depend on a few factors:
Camera
Light
Cropping
Some camera JPGs can be acceptable, as long as you don’t have to crop too much, and/or don’t blow up too large. However, most High School stadiums are poorly lit, which means high ISOs (I normally shoot Football at ISO 8,000). If you can drop your shutter speed, and keep the ISO low, you might get away with it. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out. As a suggestion, try shooting both (if the JPGs don’t work, you then have the NEF/RAW files to work with).
WEJ
I’ve been shooting Varsity (night) football games for 3 years. RAW + Topaz Labs & Photoshop can take subpar high ISO shots and make them virtually perfect. I shoot both, initially view jpgs to choose which ones to correct then open in RAW to adjust. You can even usually set up a batch run to adjust each picture the same. This is great for 100-200 shots.
I shoot only NEF. I use View NX2 to rename the files and for initial selection. All editing and processing I do using DxO. I have a preset in DxO that I apply to the NEF files, and then I might tweak the shot depending on the angle shot at (because the light changes). A quick crop, tilt correction if needed, and then on to the next shot. Post production is usually a matter of taste or ease for the person doing it. I personally found DxO easier to work with than Photoshop, so that is why I use it. Sounds to me like you have a great post process that works good for you.
I am not familiar with Topaz. Do they make a stand-alone version (since can’t use as a plugin for DxO)?
WEJ
John,
I don’t use Photoshop only Lightroom. I do use Topaz Labs software. Why do you use both Topaz and Photoshop? What can you get with Photoshop that you don’t accomplish with Topaz?
William, that cart thing sounds like a good idea but I don’t think I can sell it to the University. This is a new project for. Mostly I’d been shooting kids league sports.
I was part of a photography pool a few months back and everyone was kidding me about shooting with two D7100’s at a bike race. After all the pictures were handed into the client I had 16 pictures in the journal they published. None of the other photographers had more than four images. I was contacted by the U of R’s head sports photographer because he has never liked the other shooter he had to work with. My first assignment is this Saturday with the seasons kick off game but having played football in high school and of course being a fan I understand the game. I played volleyball in college so I do know that game as well. If I can stay awake during a baseball game I do ok in that venue. Soccer…not so much. Don’t really know what is going on half the time so I just shoot and shoot.