I used Manfrotto tripods & heads for years, all with the 200-PL plates that engage with a single screw in the camera tripod mount. Even a moderately heavy lens would loosen the single screw and instead of holding the camera/lens in place, it would spin around and loosen. So after reading a RSS BH-55 ball head review on this website, I bought a used one without an RRS plate to mount my D850 and Sigma 40mm/135mm lenses.
The BH-55 sits nicely on my old Bogen Manfrotto 3236 legs and looks very solid. The store, not an RRS dealer, included an aftermarket, rectangular "dove tail " plate but it is flat and mounts with a single screw to the camera base, letting the camera/lens spin. Has anyone used an RRS "L" bracket or a plate that has raised edges to keep the camera from turning? Suggestions from folks that have used this set-up would be greatly appreciated.
Both of these are available from B&H anyone familiar with either one?
The BL-D850 L-Bracket from Kirk is designed specifically for the Nikon D850 and with anti-twist flanges that prevent unwanted camera movement within the bracket.
@polizonte, I believe I responded to your question on the RRS review. For the benefit of someone else who might read this in the future, I will also answer it here.
Over the years, I realized manufacturers sometimes vary their specs for Arca-Swiss plates. While most Kirk and RRS plates are inter-changeable, others might vary by a millimeter or two, making quick-release locking mechanisms either too stiff or too loose. For this reason, I have always used twisted lock mechanism rather than quick release, as it works with any Arca-Swiss plate.
This means that if you use a quick-release plate with any ballhead from Kirk, RRS, Arca Swiss, Novoflex, etc, always buy the plates from the same manufacturer.
If you use a single plate on the bottom of the camera, it should not twist if you have rubber on both the plate and the camera's bottom side. You will just need to secure it tightly. Quality plates usually work well, but cheap third-party plates just can't be securely locked and they will easily twist and loosen up. If you don't want any twisting side to side, I would get an L-bracket. The RRS L-brackets are excellent, and I never had any issues with them. So I would certainly highly recommend them.
Thank you very much, I will check B&H's inventory.
Don't forget to check the used equipment inventory at KEH, B&H, etc. RRS, Kirk and Wimberley plates and brackets turn up there regularly but don't last long. Still - it will save some money. The specs on these three are very similar and in most cases are interchangeable.
I won't ever buy a plate with a rubber surface. The reality is the rubber is covering up a lack of precise fit. It's okay as an emergency or temporary substitute, but much better to have a proper plate or bracket. If you need a generic plate or L-bracket, the plate should be longer than you think you need so it works on both lenses and cameras, and the L-bracket needs to have a lip if possible to reduce twisting.
Eric Bowles
www.bowlesimages.com
@ericbowles Thank your for your suggestions and I agree with what you say about rubber padded plates. I am considering the RRS Ultralight L-Plate for D850; besides not having a rubber coated surface (as Manfrotto, Promaster do), in addition to base screw, it has a pin that fits the camera base hole meant to engage the battery pack. I never use battery packs so if that extra pin prevents twisting, so much the better. I just noticed the Kirk L plate has a lip on two sides.
I gave up Manfrotto plates years ago. ARCA is the way to go. Much more flexible and expandable. Once you use an L-bracket fitted for your camera - you'll never go without one again... I have the Kirk on my 850, and it secures the camera - no slip at all when clamped on a 55mm knob screw plate. I'm not a fan of quick release. If the BH-55 comes with a quick-release clamp, I'd replace it with a SunwayFoto DDH=05 panning clamp and get a Sunway DMP=200R (Nodal Rail) for the 135mm. Just clamp the rail to the bottom of the L-Bracket. It gives you an extra axis to offset camera weight when employing leaning ball head angles.
@a-peer Thank you for the suggestions as I am considering a different option for the 135mm lens. I ordered one RRS Ultralight bracket from B&H for the 40mm lens.
I like the screw/no lever design of my BH-55 ball head: simplicity/stability over speed and it cost $400 less than a new one.
@megaz I took your good advice and stuck with an RRS L bracket, purchased the one piece BD850-L Ultralight L - PLate. It fits the BH-55 like a glove, does not wiggle, nor touch the tilting touch screen and allows access to the camerra battery the battery.
@a-peer Thanks for help in identifying the accessory that came with my used ball head - it is an RRS MPR-CLII Nodal Side Rail with Integral Clamp.
I wish to thank ericbowles for his advice and suggestions also.
For my 70-200mm f/2.8E FL, mounted on another DSLR, I opted for a Hejnar H128 foot replacement, a dove tail made in the USA that fits the RRS ball perfectly rock solid.
Why the H128? I have always left lens feet permanently attached, the lower profile, height of this foot and most important, the design of this Hejnar replacemnt prevents accidental release and dropping of an expensive lens. (To hold this zoom, I do not need to fit my fingers between the foot and lens barrel - the reason I stress "low profile". It might not be everyone's preference, but I really like the lower height when mounted on my BH-55 and even when handholding the lens, this foot is not a problem for me.)
Easy installation: remove the Nikon foot from lens collar, install the H128 with the one stainless steel hex screw, using included Allen wrench/Allen key; if user intends to leave the foot on more or less permanently or for safety concerns, a drop of blue Loctite is recommended. Total cost of purchase and shipping direct from manufacturer, $74.