Ducks and geese form the family Anatidae, and there are 174 of them in total! Moreover, they are large birds that are easy to see – and thus make good photographic subjects. But like all animals, ducks and geese have their own sort of behavior, and that means there are some specific things you can do to improve your photos of them. I’ll share some of my favorite tips today!
Table of Contents
Get Close to the Water
Most ducks and geese spend a lot of time near the water. Although common ducks like Mallards often feeding on the grass as well, for some species like Common Goldeneyes or Freckled Ducks, it’s rare to spot them out of water. If you don’t get close to the water and watch out for swimming birds, then you’ll likely miss quite a few interesting species.
And I really do feel like a broken record when saying this, but it helps a lot to get at eye level with your subject. However, with swimming ducks and geese, it’s a little more tricky than with other birds who sometimes land on trees or in the grass.
Thus, a technique I like to use with swimming ducks is to bring a waterproof mat with me when I’m near the shore, because if I don’t, I am very likely to get wet and muddy – something that still happens very often when I’m out shooting, I’m afraid, but at least it’s a little better with a mat.
I also recommend using the tilting or flip-up screen of your camera if you have one. Yes, it’s easier to find a subject through a viewfinder, and on DSLRs, focusing tends to be worse in live view. Even so, utilizing the tilt screen can allow you to place the camera right on the ground and still control your camera, without fully lying down yourself. Much nicer to sit instead!
I also recommend that you should vary the height of your camera a little. Moving it slightly up or down may help you exclude distracting background elements that you don’t want in your photo. Yes, very low shots can be pretty, but sometimes they can actually include more distracting elements that will mess up your background.
Find the Warm Waters in Winter
It’s a fact that human modification of the environment has in turn caused ducks and geese to modify their behaviour. This is particularly true of the Mallard in North America. In colder regions, Mallards are now more likely than ever to overwinter because rivers and lakes no longer freeze. And there are also many bodies of water that are kept especially warm due to water runoff from industry and cities.
So, if you do live in a city with a cold winter where some bodies of water freeze over, there are likely other, warmer bodies of water nearby where there will be ducks that have not migrated. And it’s not just Mallards that like these sorts of conditions. Many species that breed in the far north, like Hooded Mergansers, will come down in the winter from more arctic areas.
In such conditions, watch out especially for the patterns of freezing. If there is just one patch of non-frozen water on the lake, the ducks will gather there, and you may be able to find a nearby spot to set up your camera.
One technique I like to use is to wait until there’s at least a week of very cold weather and the temperature is at least -15ºC (5ºF) – not uncommon in Canada! That makes the ice on the banks of slow rivers very solid and sturdy. Then, on a warmer day, I can spend hours lying on the ice, photographing ducks that pass by. Of course, you should make sure the ice is really thick enough to lie on so you don’t fall in the river.
Go in the Rain
I know, I know, going out in the rain is not always fun as a wildlife photographer. And not all animals are like ducks – they don’t all have natural waterproofing, so they can look pretty wet and miserable in the rain (well, this can also make for interesting shots).
But isn’t it amazing how some ducks can remain in near-freezing water all day without being any worse for wear? That’s because they’ve got nice, waterproof feathers and insulating layers. Thus, raindrops on ducks will just sit as near-perfect spheres and produce a beautiful, glassy texture that contrasts nicely with colorful, fine feather detail.
Although all ducks can be photographed in the rain, the ones with darker plumage look especially striking as the dark colors can enhance the water droplet effect.
To make the rain less unpleasant, I bring an umbrella and often use it to cover myself while sitting and waiting. It also keeps my gear dry. With some practice, it’s really not too hard to hold a camera and an umbrella at the same time. Or you can make it even easier on yourself and use a tripod with a gimbal head.
Aim for Duck in Flight Shots
Almost all birds fly, but ducks provide good training material for birds in flight because their flight is often slower and more predictable. That means it’s a good idea to train on ducks so that you can hone your skills for more difficult water birds like shorebirds, which fly much more quickly and erratically.
I recommend using a shutter speed of at least 1/1600 second for flying ducks, but if possible I prefer 1/2000 or faster. But since ducks fly slowly, you can also try panning a little and lowering your shutter speed further for a bit of wing blur.
Another thing about ducks is that, unlike raptors in flight, ducks and especially geese often fly in groups. Often, I’ll be at a site and see one or two fly by. That’s a cue that more might be approaching. Looking for this will help you prepare for the next few shots. Photographing them in groups can be very effective, including as silhouettes.
Try Portraits
Due to the large and often colorful heads of ducks, they make good subjects for portrait-style photography. To do this type of photography, find an area where ducks like to rest. That’s often on a ledge that is protected from activity somewhere near the lake.
Geese are also especially good for portraits because they have large bodies and move especially slowly. In North America, Canada Geese will gather in large groups and thus give you lots of practice for up-close shots. Very few species stick around as long as geese, so use the opportunity to fine-tune your compositions and select ideal backgrounds.
The male of some species of ducks such as the Mallard, American Wigeon, and Northern Pintail, moult into a breeding plumage. If you’re after closeups of this beautiful phase, it pays to search in the spring and fall where you are likely to see the ducks in this phase.
Conclusion
Like all birds, ducks have their own habits and characteristics that are worth knowing. It’s not only interesting to learn about these behaviors, but it can also help you get better photos. Even after seeing over 100 families of birds, I think Anatidae, or ducks and geese, are on my top ten list because they are so fun to photograph.
Do you like photographing ducks? What techniques do you use? Let me know in the comments!
May I ask a question – possibly for a PL article if this is relevant to you and the readership?
How good is photo processing and printing software for iPads?
I’m thinking of an underlying question: is it possible for the amateur photographer to give up the laptop given how capable iPads now are (if you don’t use your laptop for much else (e.g GarageBand is on iPad …)). Or looked another way, a top iPad is no dearer than an average MacBook and is therefore cheaper than a MacBook and an iPad. Other devices like a monitor and external storage are the same.
Just a thought. After all, iPads are very transportable in the old camera backpack.
Printing might be the issue, but what if all you do is save the processed image as a jpeg and send it to the printer for it to manage? My (11 years old) Canon Pro-100 does a decent job.
Other devices are of course available … but PL has done Apple specific articles in the past.
That’s a good idea. Capture One and Lightroom have iPad alternatives but they are not as fully-featured as the Desktop version. Affinity Photo has a fairly complete version too.
As a travel option lots of people do it. As a *replacement*, I’d never do it, ever, simply for usability reasons (horrible file management, hard to use multiple windows, having to move my fingers all the time where I am much faster with a mouse, in general I hate the usability of iPads and tablets). Simply the idea of using an iPad for photo editing makes me shudder.
Nice article. But – I am surprised by the statement that ducks “fly slowly”. Aren’t they among the birds with the highest “cruise” speeds (straight/level/steady)?
Well, I was thinking compared to birds like pigeons, passerines, woodpeckers, etc. which are quite a bit faster! Might have something to do with the fact that the other day I was working on pigeons in flight.
Actually, bg5931 is right, ducks are among the fastest-flying birds (at least in horizontal flight) – definitely faster than most (if not all) passerines, including swallows. Pigeons and shorebirds are in a similar range (depending on the species).
The point is that they are quite big, so you usually are further away to take pictures, which means you move your camera at a slower pace than for smaller, closer subjects; and of course the very straight/predictable flight path helps a lot.
Good to know! It’s counterintuitive indeed!
Yes, it is – but try taking shots of a duck that is not flying in a straight line at close range, e.g. when it’s coming to land on a small pond. Then you realise those birds are pretty darn fast!
Thank you for the article and the many great pointers you offer.. I would add that other approaches and angles could be considered for those of us whose age and mobility issues prevent us from laying on the ground, or rather, limit our ability to get up if we lay on the ground. I will often sit on a park bench with a lower tripod or monopod to get the best angle I can on the nearby water or shoreline. Use of live-view with a tilting viewscreen to get a lower angle for the camera can also work. On those days when I am particularly energetic, I may lay on the ground, if I am willing to spend an extended time getting myself on my feet again.
In any case, thank you for the helpful article.
Know the feeling! If I lie face down it’s a struggle to bend enough in the middle to use the viewfinder. Might need to rely on my Z5’s live view rather than my D500. I did buy a tabletop tripod to help with that.
The D500’s viewfinder lying down is a real pain in the neck, I agree. I use my Z6 if I’m going to do very low water shots. It’s not ideal but not bad at all.
In my case, the choice to lay on the ground also factors in who is around to witness the “extended time” involved in regaining my dignity! :-)
Another great shot is a duck landing. It is best to get it just as or just after the duck touches the water. Better yet get a group of them landing at the same time. They tend to do that.
I have some examples but it doesn’t look like I can add photos to a comment.
Agreed. Another is a coot running on water. Those feet …
Very informative article!
I always keep a polyethylene garbage bag in my backpack just in case I need to stay low and encounter mud. Getting the right camera position is always crucial.
Thanks, Massimo! That is a great and compact solution. I think I’ll go put a garbage bag in my pack right now.
Waterproof trousers and a cagoule might be a bit more manageable than a mat.
I’m currently laid up with an ankle, including newly installed ‘scaffolding’, in plaster, but hoping to spend time in the autumn at our local wildfowl and wetlands trust, having recently moved house. Not sure how close one can get to the water, but these tips will come in useful. I do like photographing in gentle rain. The light can be very delicate.
Also got a newly-acquired Sigma art 135/f1.8 to try out on closer subjects. Whether I can be arty enough with it is an open question.
Thanks, Robert! True, waterproof clothing is superior sometimes! But a bit to hot in other times :) Hope your ankle gets better and I think a Sigma 135 f/1.8 would be an amazing wildlife lens in the right conditions. Might even get one myself one of these days…