Wondering how the Nikon Z6 compares to the Z7? Naturally, they are quite similar in many ways, even having identical control layouts and the exact same weight. But below the surface, there are plenty of important differences. If you are thinking of buying either the Z6 or Z7, this article will help you understand the pros and cons of each.
Note that Nikon has released updates to both of these cameras. If you want to read more about the new versions, check out our Nikon Z6 II vs Nikon Z7 II comparison. You may also want to take a look at our Z6 vs Z6 II and Z7 vs Z7 II articles as well.
Nikon Z6 and Z7 Specifications Comparison
The Nikon Z6 is targeted as a general-purpose mirrorless camera, with its 24 MP sensor, 12 FPS continuous shooting speed, and 273 autofocus points. The Nikon Z7, on the other hand, is marketed as a more premium offering, with its 45.7 MP sensor that can push 9 FPS and an autofocus system with a total of 493 focus points. Both cameras offer hybrid autofocus systems, with on-sensor phase-detection and contrast-detection AF.
Let’s take a look at the specifications in more detail:
|Camera Feature||Nikon Z6||Nikon Z7|
|Sensor Resolution||24.5 MP||45.7 MP|
|Sensor Type||BSI CMOS||BSI CMOS|
|In-Body Image Stabilization||Yes, 5-axis||Yes, 5-axis|
|Sensor Size||35.9 x 24.0mm||35.9 x 23.9mm|
|Image Size||6048 x 4024||8256 x 5504|
|Image Processor||EXPEED 6||EXPEED 6|
|Viewfinder||Electronic / EVF||Electronic / EVF|
|Viewfinder Type / Resolution||QVGA / 3.6 Million Dots||QVGA / 3.6 Million Dots|
|Flash Sync Speed||1/200s||1/200s|
|Storage Media||1x XQD||1x XQD|
|Continuous Shooting Speed||12 FPS (12-bit RAW), 9 FPS (14-bit RAW)||9 FPS (12-bit RAW), 8 FPS (14-bit RAW)|
|Buffer Capacity (12-Bit Lossless RAW)||35 images||23 images|
|Max Shutter Speed||1/8000||1/8000|
|Electronic Front-Curtain Shutter||Yes||Yes|
|Exposure Metering Sensor||TTL metering using camera image sensor||TTL metering using camera image sensor|
|Base ISO||ISO 100||ISO 64|
|Native ISO Sensitivity||ISO 100-51,200||ISO 64-25,600|
|Autofocus System||Hybrid PDAF||Hybrid PDAF|
|Low-Light Sensitivity||-3.5 to +19 EV (-6 to +19 EV with Low-Light AF enabled)||-2 to +19 EV (-4 to +19 EV with Low-Light AF enabled)|
|Focus Peaking / Peaking Colors / Levels||Yes / Red, Yellow, Blue, White / 3||Yes / Red, Yellow, Blue, White / 3|
|Video Maximum Resolution||4K @ up to 30p, 1080p @ up to 120p||4K @ up to 30p, 1080p @ up to 120p|
|4K Video Type||Full-sensor width (oversampled)||Line skipping|
|HDMI Out / N-LOG||4:2:2 10-bit HDMI Output / Yes||4:2:2 10-bit HDMI Output / Yes|
|Articulating LCD||Yes, Tilting||Yes, Tilting|
|LCD Size||3.2″ Diagonal LCD||3.2″ Diagonal LCD|
|LCD Resolution||2,100,000 dots||2,100,000 dots|
|Battery Life (CIPA)||310 shots||330 shots|
|Weather Sealed Body||Yes||Yes|
|USB Version||Type-C 3.1||Type-C 3.1|
|Weight (with Battery and Card)||675 g (1.49 lbs)||675 g (1.49 lbs)|
|Dimensions||134 x 100.5 x 67.5mm (5.3 x 4.0 x 2.7″)||134 x 100.5 x 67.5mm (5.3 x 4.0 x 2.7″)|
|MSRP As Introduced||$1,999.95 (check for sales)||$3,399.95 (check for sales)|
Now that we have used both the Nikon Z6 and Z7 extensively for real-world shooting, it is clear that there are some major differences between the two cameras that photographers need to know about. (See our reviews of the Nikon Z6 and Nikon Z7.) First, however, let’s just look at the specifications alone. As you can see, the Z7 is ahead in some areas, but the Z6 isn’t a slouch by any means. And for many of the most important specifications, the two cameras are identical.
Are you primarily interested in the video features of these cameras? If so, the Z6 is actually slightly better than the Z7, since its 4K video is downsampled from the full width of the sensor (totaling about 6K at first) rather than pixel binned. And, as you’ll see in a moment, the stills image quality on the Z6 is no slouch either, especially at high ISOs.
Interested in landscapes? It might be a different story. The biggest difference between the two cameras is their sensor resolution: 24 MP versus 45 MP. Some photographers actually prefer lower resolution in general, since it leads to smaller file sizes that are still plenty large enough for huge prints. But if you’re the type of photographer who shoots landscapes and makes large prints, you may find 45 megapixels to be the much preferable option.
You’ll also notice that the autofocus system is different between these cameras. The Z7 has a 493 point system versus the Z6’s 273 point system. In practice, this just means that the Z7 has finer “steps” when you move the autofocus box. Although this sometimes helps for composition, it doesn’t impact the cameras’ tracking capabilities, which works equally well on both cameras. However, the Z6’s faster frame rate (12 FPS versus 9 FPS) is helpful in some conditions, so the Z6 is the better camera for fast action. The Z6 also has a slightly better buffer of 35 rather than 23 RAW images before the frame rate slows down.
The more minor changes between the Z6 and Z7 are also interesting, such as battery life and ISO range. Personally, as a landscape photographer, I love the base ISO 64 that Nikon is using on its high-resolution cameras. That said, the difference between ISO 100 and ISO 64 is only 2/3 stop. And although battery life technically leans in the Z7’s favor (330 versus 310 shots), that difference is invisible in practice.
In short, the Z6 is actually the better camera in some important ways, despite its lower price. Unless you need 45 megapixels rather than 24, I recommend saving the money and buying the Z6. It’s hardly a downgrade; you get better 4K video quality, a faster frame rate, smaller file sizes, and better high ISO performance.
Speaking of ISO, let’s take a look at some samples from each camera to see how they perform side by side:
Nikon Z6 vs Nikon Z7 ISO Performance Comparison
Let’s start with ISO 100, the lowest shared native ISO value on the Z6 and Z7. In order to compare 24 MP versus 45 MP side by side, I downsampled the Z7 images to match the Z6’s 4024 × 6048 resolution. The Z6 is on the left, and the Z7 is on the right:
The two images are very similar overall. There is a bit more detail on the Z7 image, thanks to the higher initial resolution of 45 megapixels, but differences are slight. (Look at the top edges of the color swatches to see a good example of where the Z7 is more defined.) At ISO 200 through 1600, differences in noise are still minor, but the Z6 does have a bit less. However, at these ISOs, the Z7 retains its slight edge in image detail. Personally, I prefer the Z7 files in this range:
At ISO 3200 and 6400, the Z6 is starting to look clearly better than the Z7 in noise performance. This is especially noticeable in the red and pink swatches. Although the Z7 is still the sharper file at both ISOs, I am starting to prefer how the Z6 looks. But especially at ISO 3200, it is a bit of a toss-up:
The Z6 starts pulling away at ISO 12,800. Pay attention to the green, pink, red, and gray swatches. Although the Z7 still shows reasonable performance, and remains slightly sharper, the Z6 performs better overall at this ISO:
By ISO 25,600, it is clear that the Z6 is ahead in noise performance, and the extra noise in the Z7 has essentially eliminated the sharpness advantage. The better file here is definitely the Z6’s:
And at ISO 51,200, the Z6 not only wins in noise but also detail and sharpness, leaving the Z7 clearly behind:
Lastly, at ISO 102,400, the Z6 is far ahead of the Z7 in every way, including brightness. However, both images are pretty much unusable:
The takeaway here is that the Z6 is the better camera in noise performance, but the Z7 is sharp enough at lower ISOs to make up for the difference. From ISO 100 to ISO 1600, I prefer the Z7 files, and I can see an argument for the Z7 files being preferable even up to ISO 6400.
Which Camera Should You Get?
This is not the only time Nikon has ever released two versions of a camera with the same body but different internal components. For example, we’ve already had the D800 vs D800e and the D810 vs D810A. However, the Z6 and Z7 have more differences than either of these cases, including a substantial difference in price.
The Nikon Z6 has naturally been the more popular of these two releases, and not just because of the lower price. 24 MP is a bit of a sweet spot in the megapixel race, especially if you take a lot of travel pictures or shoot events. For that reason, I recommend getting the Nikon Z6 for most photographers who are considering the two cameras. You should get the Z7 only if you know that you need the extreme 45 MP resolution for large prints or tight cropping, and base ISO 64 for slightly better dynamic range. All the other differences between the two cameras are negligible, and many of them even lean in the Z6’s favor.
Personally, I use one of each – the Z7 for my main landscape camera, and the Z6 as a backup camera and the primary filming camera for the Photography Life YouTube channel.
So, whether your next Nikon camera is going to be the Z6, Z7, or a DSLR instead (which have been going down in price now, especially used), there is no bad answer. Now that we have done extensive head-to-head testing, it is clear that Nikon has two serious winners on its hands.
I hate to add more options to your list, but before you pick either the Z6 or Z7, you should also be aware of the Z6 II and Z7 II. Here’s a comparison of the Z6 versus Z6 II, and another of the Z7 versus Z7 II. You can also check out our Nikon Z6 II review and Nikon Z7 II review.
I’m personally keeping my Z6 and Z7 for now, but the new cameras are pretty great upgrades as well.
Waarom heeft de Z6 geen ingebouwde flitser?
Hi, If the camera has a bigger sensor, does it mean that I do not have to have a super long lens? In another word, if I crop the image to enlarge the area, is it the same as zoom in with a long lens?
A big camera sensor does mean you can crop more without losing too much image quality. But it’s not the same as zooming in with a long lens. A long lens will always get you better image quality than cropping.
why do they play around with low pass filter.. they ve done it before and it keep the blur on the image instead of moré… or vs…????
I’m looking at the Z6. I am planning to shoot with RAW format. I like shooting landscapes and portraits. What is the largest picture I can produce with out losing too much resolution…
Native lens, esp f2.8 are pricey as expected. Are 3rd party vendors like Sigma or Tamron looking to create lenses for these Z cameras?
I love landscape photos too and I enjoy stitching large panos for huge prints. I have used and loved the D810 for many years though it is a heavy tank it has been an amazing camera. I did not know just how amazing until the Z7 arrived. The Z7 has a lot going for it in usability and video but I miss some of the external controls and mostly I miss the non-obtrusive horizon indicator. The Z7 horizon is obnoxious and there is no way to toggle it off/on quickly with an assigned button. But the real gotcha that jumped out at me was the amount of NOISE present even in the shadows on low ISO images. And the color noise is something I have never had to contend with on the D810 using my primes. LR default profile for Lumin Noise on D810 is 0 (“zero”) making manipulation of that 36 MP image a snap. But the default value for the same on the Z7 is 25 (and for good reason) requiring intense default processing on an even larger RAW 45 MP image and wow, my productivity in post has been hit hard. And I am also using too much time chasing all the color noise. I have had a chance to shoot side by side with the D810 using the same primes via the Zadapter which works really well. Just disappointed to see the apparent dynamic range reduction mostly from all the noise when shot at the same settings. I knew that all things being equal that squeezing more pixels onto the same size sensor is asking for signal contamination and reduced pixel sensitivity. I also suspect that even my prime lenses are beyond their resolvable limit for the 45MP sensor. Finally, it takes some getting used to battery life that shoots 25%-33% of what it did on the D810. Bottom line is that I am at best neutral, not because I can’t work a nice image out of the Z7 but because it’s clearly going to take me a lot more time to do so and in the end I have no one to blame by myself. I just wanted to share my observations and hear what others are finding and if anyone has dialed the Z7 in for serious landscape work using LR with custom settings.
Spencer & Nasim,
Which would you recommend to pair with a D500?
On one hand, the Z 7’s higher resolution and ISO 64 is better for being able to crop and for landscapes. On the other hand, the Z 6 has better low-light performance, and the price difference could pay for an FX wide and/or ultra wide lens, which is really the only gaping hole in my lens collection (I’ve got the 70-200 FL, the 300 PF, and the TC14 III for the telephoto end.)
You do have the DX crop on the Z 7, but I would like to keep the D500 as I really enjoy its autofocus performance for fast moving and distant subjects.
For me, either Z would be for travel use due to its smaller size and weight (otherwise going from the D500 to D850 might be ideal), and landscape work that the D500 is somewhat less suited to (though certainly no slouch!)
Any advice you can offer would be appreciated, especially as I think the D500+Z makes a good pairing.
I should also mention that I enjoy square format photography, so the additional resolution of the Z 7 might be a factor there as well.
Have been to wild life photography recently, yet to buy a higher end nikon. I am bit confused as some suggest D500/850 and some z6. Now i use D5500 and want to upgrade. Please suggest me one as it would be one time investment( btw am not a professional photigrapher)
For wildlife photography, I would go with the Nikon D500 and spend the remainder on lenses. It has an amazing autofocus system, the best of all three cameras for wildlife. (It’s actually the same as the D850’s system, but covers more of the viewfinder because the D500 is a crop-sensor camera).
Wildlife is all about lenses. Get a long telephoto lens with a wide aperture – something like a 300mm f/4, 500mm f/5.6, or one of the exotics if you can afford it (both in price and weight) – 200mm f/2, 300mm f/2.8, 400mm f/2.8, 500mm f/4, 600mm f/4, or 800mm f/5.6.
As a landscape photographer, I like the ability to crop which would give a slight advantage to the Z7. I currently shoot with a Z6 and would also like to use a second body.
For those rare occasions where I truly need tight cropping, how would doing a tight pano stitch with the Z6 ( large file, greater pixel density) compare with one image from the Z7?
Any insights would be appreciated.
My question is if you set the Z7 resolution to 24MP will it have less noise at higher ISO’s, like the Z6.
Then I would set it at full res for daylight and 24MP for night shots. Can anyone test this?
no, thats not how it works – the iso is caused by the size of the sensor, and by setting it to 24mpx you’d effecitvely have a smaller sensor than on the z7