Many of the current Nikon D3s owners like me probably wonder about the differences between the new Nikon D4 and the now obsolete Nikon D3s DSLR cameras. While I do not yet have the Nikon D4 to do more in-depth side by side comparisons, I decided to write about differences in body design and specifications between the two. More details about the Nikon D4 will be published in my upcoming Nikon D4 review.
First, let’s talk about differences in camera body design.
Nikon D4 vs D3s Camera Body Design Comparison
As expected, the Nikon D4 went through rather significant changes in camera body design. The overall shape of the camera has been completely changed and it now looks more curved than the D3/D3s/D3x models. Let’s start from the front of the camera, which went through the least number of changes. The only major change I see on the front is the C/S/M focus lever (bottom left side of the camera) that has been modified to adapt to the same switch we see on the Nikon D7000 DSLR. This was a good design change, because it will prevent accidental changes to autofocus when you pull the camera out of the bag. Now the switch only has two options – AF for autofocus and M for manual focus. The button on top of the switch replaces the AF mode switch on the back of the camera. Now you can switch between the different AF modes (single, dynamic and 3D) by pressing this button and rotating the camera dial. Oh and it looks like the grip is shaped a little differently, which should help with handling the camera a little more.
Now on to the camera left side:
There are some noticeable changes to the camera connector panels – the Nikon D4 has everything separated out by groups, while the Nikon D3s has a more consolidated look. The top left round connection is for the new WT-5a wireless unit. The bottom connection on the D4 shows Ethernet + HDMI connections. The Nikon D3s does not have an Ethernet port.
The top of the camera went through significant design changes:
Let’s start from the left, the camera dial. The front of the dial is fully closed and only the rear of the dial is exposed. The dial modes are the same, but there is a change on the top buttons – the useless “Lock” button on the D3/D3s/D3x has been replaced with a metering mode button. I really like this idea, because the metering mode switch on the right side has been eliminated as well! Now that I see this change, I started to realize how much I hate the old metering mode switch on the D3/D3s cameras. Pressing the button and then rotating the metering mode dial was never comfortable. I am glad that this annoyance has been finally taken care of. The right side of the camera has also been redesigned. The shutter release is now located at a lower angle for comfort and the camera mode and exposure compensation buttons have been moved up a little to make room for the new and small video recording button.
Now let’s talk about the back of the camera, which went through the most number of changes:
There are things I really like about what Nikon did with the D4 back layout/design and things I don’t. Let’s start from what I believe are good changes. Compared to the D3s, there is one extra button on the back of the D4. Finally, Nikon adapted a similar layout as the D700, which is the ability to zoom in out by pressing a button. I remember when I first held the D3s on my hand, I could not figure out how to zoom in. I then realized that I have to press the zoom button and then use the dial on the back of the camera to zoom in and out. What a pain! Now this pain goes away, because you just press the zoom in and zoom out buttons without having to rotate any dials! The lock/help button has been moved up right under the Menu button, which I would rather have on the bottom, because I never use it. In addition, all the new buttons are back-lit, which is great news for those of us that shoot in low-light or at night.
Let’s move to the LCD. The new LCD on the back of the camera has the same 921,000 dot resolution as the one on the D3s, but is now a little bigger in size (by 0.2 inches diagonal). While Nikon says that they always individually calibrate these screens, it is still the same old LCD technology we see on all other cameras. We are in 2012 now, come on, why doesn’t Nikon use higher-end screens on their new cameras? OLED is not cheap, but it uses a lot less energy than LCD and it lasts forever.
The button placement under the LCD, also went through some changes. While the ISO / QUAL / WB buttons are still in their respective places (come on Nikon, that QUAL button is evil! – see my Nikon D3s Review why), the audio record button has been moved to sit together in the same group. I don’t really care about this button, because I never use it. The Live View button has moved a little to the left now and has a lever for selecting between photo and video live view modes.
The vertical grip should now be a lot more comfortable, because the AF-ON button has been moved deeper into the camera body. This is great news, because the old AF-ON placement was never good to start with – I kept on accidentally hitting it while shooting horizontally and had to constantly turn it off when I was not using it. AF-ON should have been where it is now on the D3/D3s/D3x models.
Finally, let’s talk about the rest of the buttons to the right side of the body and LCD. Similar to the Canon DSLRs, we now have two joysticks (the joystick is borrowed from the MB-D10 grip) – one to use in horizontal position and one to use in vertical position. The top joystick replaces the customizable AE-L/AF-L button (still wondering where it went). I don’t know about others, but I hate joysticks. If we have to use a joystick to move the AF point now, what is the purpose of having the bigger dial? Is there there now to move around while viewing pictures? I very much hope that I can still use the big dial to select AF points. Joysticks are the reason why I do not like the ergonomics of many Canon DSLRs. It is sad to see Nikon trying to copy Canon in that regard.
OK, let’s move on to differences in camera specifications. The below specifications comparison only shows differences between the two cameras – identical information has been intentionally removed.
Nikon D4 vs D3s Specification Comparison
Camera Feature | Nikon D4 | Nikon D3s |
---|---|---|
Sensor Resolution | 16.2 Million | 12.1 Million |
Total Pixels | 16.6 Million | 12.87 Million |
Sensor Pixel Size | 7.3µm | 8.45µm |
Image Size | 4,928 x 3,280 | 4,256 x 2,832 |
Storage Media | 1x Compact Flash and 1x XQD | 2x Compact Flash |
Buffer Capacity | Up to 100 12-bit RAW Up to 70 14-bit uncompressed RAW Up to 200 JPEG Large | Up to 43 12-bit RAW Up to 36 14-bit uncompressed RAW Up to 78 JPEG Large |
EXIF Version | 2.3 | 2.21 |
Focusing Screen | BriteView Clear Matte Mark VIII | BriteView Clear Matte VI |
Continuous Shooting Speed | 10 FPS, 11 FPS with AE/AF Locked | 9 FPS |
Shutter Durability | 400,000 cycles | 300,000 cycles |
Shutter Lag | 0.042 seconds | 0.04 seconds |
Exposure Metering Sensor | 91,000-pixel RGB sensor | 1,005-pixel RGB sensor |
Metering Range | -1 ± 20 EV | 0 to 20 EV |
Base ISO | ISO 100 | ISO 200 |
Native ISO Sensitivity | ISO 100-12,800 | ISO 200-12,800 |
Boosted ISO Sensitivity | ISO 50, ISO 25,600-204,800 | ISO 100, ISO 25,600-102,400 |
D-Lighting Bracketing | Yes | No |
Autofocus System | Advanced Multi-CAM 3500FX | Multi-CAM 3500FX |
AF Detection | Up to f/8 | Up to f/5.6 |
Focus Modes | AF-A AF-S AF-C Face-Priority AF M Normal Area Wide Area | AF-S AF-C M |
Flash Sync Modes | Front-curtain sync Rear-curtain sync Red-eye reduction Red-eye reduction with slow sync Slow rear-curtain sync Slow sync | Front-curtain sync Rear-curtain sync Red-eye reduction Red-eye reduction with slow sync Slow sync |
Flash Compensation | Yes, -3 to +1 EV | No |
Flash-ready Indicator | Yes | No |
Live View Shooting Modes | Photography Mode Movie Mode | Handheld Mode Tripod Mode |
Live View Lens Servo | AF AF-S AF-F MF | N/A |
Live View AF Area Mode | Face-priority AF Wide-area AF Normal-area AF Subject-tracking AF | N/A |
Video Output | MOV, Compressed and Uncompressed | AVI, Compressed |
Video Maximum Record Time | 20 min in 24p, 30 min in 30p | 5 min |
Video Maximum Resolution | 1920×1080 (1080p) | 1280×720 (720p) |
Audio Recording | Built-in microphone External stereo microphone (optional) | Built-in microphone |
LCD Size | 3.2″ diagonal TFT-LCD | 3.0″ diagonal TFT-LCD |
LCD Adjustments | 5 Levels | 7 Levels |
Playback Functions | Auto Image Rotation Full-Frame and Thumbnail GPS data display Highlights Histogram Display Image Comment IPTC Information Movie Playback Movie Slideshow Photo information Playback with Zoom Slideshow Voice Memo | Auto Image Rotation Full-Frame and Thumbnail Highlights Histogram Display Image Comment Movie Playback Shooting Data Slideshow Voice Memo Zoom |
In-Camera Image Editing | Color Balance Color Outline Color Sketch D-Lighting Distortion Control Edit Movie Filter Effects Fisheye Image Overlay Miniature Effect Monochrome NEF (RAW) Processing Perspective Control Quick Retouch Red-eye Correction Resize Selective Color Side-by-Side Comparison Straighten Trim | Color Balance D-Lighting Edit Movie with Save Selected Frame Filter Effects Image Overlay Monochrome NEF (RAW) Processing Red-eye Correction Resize Side-by-Side Comparison Trim |
HDR Support | Yes | No |
Interface | HDMI output: Type C mini-pin HDMI connector Headphone Connector NTSC Stereo Microphone Input Super Speed USB 2.0 | 10-pin Terminal HDMI Hi-speed USB NTSC PAL |
Wi-Fi Functionality | WT-5A, WT-4A | FTP and PTP/IP with WT-4A |
Total Custom Settings | 58 | 46 |
Built-in LAN | Yes | No |
Remote Shutter Release Compatibility | Corded and infra-red | Corded-only |
Supported Languages | Arabic Chinese (Simplified and Traditional) Czech Danish Dutch English Finnish French German Indonesian Italian Japanese Korean Norweigan Polish Portuguese Romanian Russian Spanish Swedish Thai Turkish Ukrainian | Chinese (Simplified and Traditional) Dutch English Finnish French German Italian Japanese Korean Polish Portuguese Russian Swedish Spanish |
Battery | EN-EL18 Lithium-ion Battery | EN-EL4 Lithium-ion Battery EN-EL4a Lithium-ion Battery |
Battery Life | 2,600 shots (CIPA) | 4,200 shots (CIPA) |
AC Adapter | EH-6b AC Adapter | EH-6 AC Adapter |
Battery Charger | MH-26 Quick Charger | MH-21 Quick Charger MH-22 Quick Charger |
Dimensions | Width 6.3 in. (160mm) Height 6.2 in. (156.5mm) Depth 3.6 in. (90.5mm) | Width 6.3 in. (159.5mm) Height 6.2 in. (157mm) Depth 3.4 in. (87.5mm) |
Weight (Body Only) | 41.6 oz. (1,180g) | 43.7 oz. (1,240g) |
MSRP Price | $5,999 | $5,199 |
Something in favor of the D3s is its battery life. I understand that there are some new battery requirements in Asia, but it is sad to see D4 have almost half the battery life of the D3s. This is a serious disadvantage, especially when shooting in cold environments where batteries die quickly. The new wireless WT-5a wireless transmitter also draws power from the camera, so expect to have even worse battery life with the WT-5a attached.
You can find more information on the Nikon D4, along with my thoughts on its features in the Nikon D4 article I posted earlier. A comparison between the Nikon D4 vs Canon 1D X is also coming.
I still prefer the D3s. If i were to upgrade i guess it would either be the D6 or the nikon mirrorless
This is all fine and dandy. My take on the subject….I don’t give a damn about the specs and features on cameras. Just give me one and good quality lenses and I’m good to go.
“the useless “Lock” button on the D3/D3s/D3x has been replaced with a metering mode button”
– actually that useless button is one that Pro’s enjoyed using, and a distinct advantage over Canon, which doesn’t have this. There are many Pro’s that shoot in manual and when lighting isn’t changing, it is a very valuable button to have as it allows the photographer to lock down the aperture and shutter values, without the possibility of accidentally knocking the dials and changing exposure while shooting. I for one miss that button very much. I can’t count the amount of time I’ve accidentally adjusted an exposure without knowing while shooting in manual.
I have read that you can change the AF points with the older control pad and the joy sticks. Also the AE-L/AF-L is the same as pressing the joystick down.
From what I have seen the D4 ISO performs about the same as the D3s
What I really want to know is how much better is the AF system in low light and normal light. Supposedly it’s around 20% faster from what I have read and that -2EV does help in the dark. This could be a big enough reason to upgrade if you are finding you are missing shots in low lighting with the current D3s. I would also like to know how the D4 feels in the vertical shooting position. I find the D3s vertical very different compared to horizontal. The grip feels very skinny and not nearly as comfortable. I wonder if the D4 has been improved in this aspect.
I think the D4 is on pair with the D3s in iso-performance, according to what I have seen at the net, and that is fine regarding to the more pixels.
But it will be VERY interesting, if the D4 has the same fantastic skin tone and overall same performance in low iso-performance= I am not 100 % sure after looking at some pictures, but we will see.
It is a dissapointment, that you can NOT set your camera to ev. minus and plus 2 and shoot only 3 shots, but has to shoot 5 shots to get that = The Nikon D7000 allready have that = I like to shoot my bracketed sbots in NEF and not jpg (I am aware of the HDR-possibility in jpg).
I know the D3s and D3x also not have this, but I thought this would be changed after the D7000, which has it so fine.
I can’t wait for your hands on review! I want to upgrade from my D700 to D4 or D3s. I have no real video interest (have a camcorder for that).
Am also dying to find out how the D800 compares. I am not into pixel peeping, and especially interested in D4 vs D800 for AF tracking/speed and clean pixels. The D800 price can’t be ignored.
I don’t like the changes of the D4.
1. I liked being able to zoom with a dial rather than pushing buttons as I have to on a D700/D800/D4. A dial allows me to quickly zoom in and zoom back out if I go too far, while hitting buttons takes a lot longer and if I mess up I have to switch buttons. If I took a picture of someone and then wanted to show them a closeup of their face, it would take a lot longer with buttons than with the zoom dial. With the zoom dial I just turn the camera, hold my left thumb on the zoom button, and use my right thumb on the dial and the direction pad to hone on their face in almost no time. With the D700’s buttons I have to click, click, click, apologize the the person waiting that I zoomed in wrong, zoom back out, and then finally show it to them. The zoom dial is very handy, once you get used to it. Lots of past D700 reviewers agreed with me than the D700 zoom buttons were less friendly than the D3’s zoom dial.
2. I agree that the joystick is a bad idea. That’s one reason I don’t like Canon cameras. Their joysticks also have rough plastic sticking out which literally hurts my fingers to touch. I hope the D4 isn’t doing this.
3. The D4’s battery life decreasing compared to the D3s, due to stupid regulations, is really bad. I have been able to shoot hundreds of shots during a whole day (10 hours) on a single EL-EN4a charge.
4. I prefer the D3s’s consolidated jack cover. Note that contrary to what’s implied by your table, the D3s has an external stereo microphone jack. I have used a flash mount microphone for superior video recordings, although I mainly use my D3s for still photos, which is what it’s really designed for.
5. The D4 cannot accept two flash memory cards of the same type. For backup or overflow mode you must buy two different kinds of memory. I will stick with Compact Flash, thank you.
Based on all these shortcomings, I will not upgrade my D3s to a D4. A D800e would be a much better investment to complement the D3s than a D4.
As an event photographer often in very low light situations ( awards, school balls, etc) I can wait to get my hands on the D4. Yes I am paying for the extra video functionality – which I won’t use. But my work will be 10 x better.
Is it worth it to upgrade from D3s to D4
I take a lot of sports (High School and College) for fun.
Thanks
Hi there,
Quick question about the joysticks, because I hate the joystick on the D700 battery grip. I mean, I really hate it. It’s so stiff that it hurts my thumb to use it. Not only that, but you seem to have to push so hard to move the focal point, that sometimes it performs a centre click. It’s anything but easy to use.
Please tell me the joysticks on the D4 at least have a nice feel to them.
Pretty please?
Regards,
Adam
Hello, it’s me again.
To answer my own question (in case anyone else is wondering), I’ve read that the joysticks (sub-controllers) on the D4 are a rubbery material, whereas the joystick on the battery grip for the D700 is plastic.
This gives me hope!
All the best,
Adam