The new Fujifilm X-T1 has been greeted with great enthusiasm. Based purely on specifications, the newer camera seems to be at the top in Japanese manufacturer’s line-up, at least until X-Pro2 comes along. In this article, I will compare the new X-T1 mirrorless camera from Fujifilm to Olympus’ top offering, the OM-D E-M1.
Please keep in mind that this comparison is based purely on official specifications as we have not yet had the chance to review either camera. Both cameras are priced very similarly and even look somewhat alike. Let’s see how they stack against each other on paper:
Fujifilm X-T1 vs Olympus OM-D E-M1 Specification Comparison
Camera Feature | Fujifilm X-T1 | Olympus OM-D E-M1 |
---|---|---|
Sensor Resolution | 16.3 Million | 16.3 Million |
AA Filter | No | No |
Sensor Type | X-Trans CMOS II | CMOS |
Sensor Size | 23.6×15.6mm | 17.3x13mm |
Sensor Pixel Size | 4.82µ | 3.7µ |
Dust Reduction / Sensor Cleaning | Yes | Yes |
Image Size | 4,896 x 3,264 | 4,608 x 3,456 |
Image Processor | EXR PROCESSOR II | TruePIC VII |
Viewfinder Magnification (35mm equivalent) | 0.77x | 0.74x |
Viewfinder Type | Electronic (EVF) | Electronic (EVF) |
Viewfinder Resolution and Lag | 2,360,000 dots, 0.005s delay | 2,360,000 dots, 0.029s delay |
Viewfinder Coverage | 100% | 100% |
Built-in Flash | No (external unit as part of the package) | No (external unit as part of the package) |
Flash Sync Speed | 1/180 | 1/320 |
Storage Media | 1x SD, SDHC, SDXC | 1x SD, SDHC, SDXC |
Continuous Shooting Speed | 8 FPS | 10 FPS |
Shutter Speed Range | 1/4000 to 30 sec | 1/8000 to 60 sec |
Image Stabilizer | With OIS Lenses | Sensor shift |
Exposure Compensation Range | ±3 stops | ±5 stops |
Base ISO | ISO 200 | ISO 200 |
Native ISO Sensitivity | ISO 200-6,400 | ISO 200-25,600 |
Autofocus System | Hybrid AF (TTL contrast AF / TTL phase detection AF) | Hybrid AF (TTL contrast AF / TTL phase detection AF) |
Focus Points | 49 AF points | 81 AF points (37 phase-detect AF points) |
Face Detection | Yes | Yes |
Video Capability | Yes | Yes |
Video Output | H.264 | H.264 |
Video Maximum Resolution | 1920×1080 (1080p) @ 60p | 1920×1080 (1080p) @ 30p |
Audio Recording | Built-in stereo microphone External stereo microphone (optional) | Built-in stereo microphone External stereo microphone (optional) |
Articulating LCD | Yes | Yes |
LCD Size | 3.0″ diagonal TFT-LCD | 3.0″ diagonal TFT-LCD |
LCD Resolution | 1,040,000 dots | 1,040,000 dots |
Built-in GPS | No | No |
Built-In Wi-Fi Functionality | Yes | Yes |
Weather Sealed Body | Yes | Yes |
Operating Temperature | Down to -10ºC | Down to -10ºC |
USB Version | 2.0 | 2.0 |
Weight (Body Only) | 440g with battery and memory card | 497g with battery and memory card |
Dimensions | 129 x 90 x 47 mm | 130 x 94 x 63 mm |
Price | $1,299 | $1,399 |
With the exception of a few major differences, the two cameras are very similar indeed. Starting with the ergonomics and design, they are both contemporary remakes of old film classics and will appeal to those who prefer the now-popular retro look over the dull-but-safe modern one. Personally, I would have to say Fujifilm nailed it better – I find the grip on E-M1 to look out of place, as if it was taken from a completely different camera and stuck on the Olympus at the last minute. That said, design is completely subjective. If we look past styling details, though, the ergonomics are, again, very similar. Both cameras feature prominent EVF humps which are not only necessary to store all the parts of current state-of-the-art electronic viewfinders, but also give a rather obvious node to mainstream DSLRs and, possibly, are there to convince some photographers that EVFs are getting better and better each year. Both cameras also feature an abundance of external controls and usefully large grips for better handling, especially with larger lenses. Olympus OM-D E-M1 and Fujifilm X-T1 are made of high quality materials and feature weather sealing.
There are more similarities to be found as we dig deeper. Save for the difference in aspect ratios, both cameras have sensors with pretty much the same resolution. Also, both emphasize improved EVF technology with high-resolution, high-magnification displays and short lag, as well as quick autofocus and response time.
Similarities are one thing, though. They do not make the task of choosing one over the other any easier. For that, we need to look at the list of differences starting off with all the points OM-1 wins over the X-T1. So, here are the major differences between these two cameras:
- Hybrid AF: I’d prefer not to speculate, but contrast-detect autofocus system of the E-M5 (read our review here) is one of the swiftest we’ve ever tested and, in some situations, quicker than that of the X-E2. Adding phase-detect autofocus could only improve it further, so unless Fujifilm has made some serious strides with AF performance with its newest model, there is a good chance E-M1 will be ever so slightly quicker.
- Speed: both X-T1 and E-M1 are impressively responsive cameras, and yet the E-M1 trumps its Fujifilm rival on paper. It has a slightly faster continuous shooting speed of 10 frames per second maximum (versus 8 frames per second for the Fuji). What I find to be more important in a camera that costs as much as one of these two is that E-M1 has a top shutter speed of 1/8000s – that is on par with high-end DSLRs. Sadly, X-T1 has to make due with 1/4000s, so if you shoot a lot outside wide-open, that extra stop in shutter speed is definitely an advantage to consider. I feel like I should stress this point more – any digital camera above $1000 mark with a focal-plane shutter should manage 1/8000s shutter speed, especially if its base ISO setting is ISO200, as with both these cameras. For example, I often find myself at the limit with my D700 in daylight when shooting at f/1.4 so for me the 1/4000s of the X-T1 is a serious drawback, one that becomes even more apparent after the XF 56mm f/1.2 announcement. While the Olympus is definitely better in this regard, I’d also prefer its base ISO to be at 100.
- ISO range: even though low-light, high ISO performance of the E-M1 is not as good as that of the Fujifilm, Olympus offers a wider range when shooting RAW. And in those cases when a grainy image is better than a blurry image, the Olympus holds an advantage.
- Flash sync speed: I’m not sure if all that many people would use either camera with a flash very often, but if you are into strobe photography the Olympus is clearly a better choice. It has a whopping one stop advantage in sync speed! And to be completely honest, the 1/180s of the Fujifilm is rather dismal.
- Image stabilization: Olympus has a very effective 5-axis image stabilization system that shifts image sensor to counter camera shake.The important part is that this sort of stabilization works with every single lens you mount even if it has no electronic linkage with the camera. Fujifilm is putting OIS into more and more lenses, like the XF 10-24mm R OIS, but there are still gaps. Here, Olympus holds an advantage.
Overall, the Olympus OM-D E-M1 seems to be a very worthy rival to the new X-T1. However, now it is time to talk about its disadvantages, and thus X-T1’s strengths.
- Sensors: resolution might be the same, but pixel size is not simply because X-T1 has a noticeably bigger sensor. Now, the one used in Olympus is far from being bad. I think it would still be rather unreasonable to expect it to outperform the X-Trans of the Fujifilm in terms of high ISO noise at the very least. Shallow depth of field is another matter.
- Lens Modulation Optimizer: just like the X100S, the Fuji X-E2 also received Fuji’s proprietary Lens Modulation Optimizer – software that can use special algorithms to reduce diffraction and other optical problems. Mind you, this is software trickery and only works in JPEG capture, so take it for what it’s worth.
- Layout Differences: naturally, camera layout is a very subjective matter and which one works best is really up to the person who wants to buy one of the cameras. That said, the dial-based system of the X-T1 might be the better choice, because the camera itself remains button-free for the most part.
- EVF: Both manufacturers boast about the technology they’ve put into the EVFs of these two cameras. Fujifilm X-T1 has a slight edge over the already hugely capable E-M1. First of all, it is slightly bigger at 0.77x 35mm equivalent magnification (although with 0.74x, the Olympus is still no slouch). Perhaps more importantly the Fuji has less lag – that’s 0.005s versus 0.029s of the Olympus. Lag is one of the bigger issues with EVFs and it is nice to see manufacturers making such progress.
- Dimensions and Weight: I did not expect this, but the X-T1 is smaller (even if just a little bit) in every dimension than the E-M1 despite featuring a much larger sensor. It is also nearly 60g lighter!
- Price: even though I stated at the beginning of this article that $1,299 is a lot for an APS-C camera (and remember, technically, the new X-T1 is not even the flagship model), Fujifilm X-T1 is actually $100 less expensive than Olympus E-M1. But less expensive is the keyword here – it is still not exactly cheap. It’s just that E-M1 is even more expensive despite having a smaller sensor.
It is a very close call between the two cameras. Your choice will most likely depend on the sensor size you prefer. Interestingly, design might also nudge you towards one camera or the other. The best thing one can do, though, is hold both in hand and use for a bit before making the decision. We will be able to draw full conclusions after both cameras are properly reviewed.
I got D7100 as backup camera and one time I brought both D810 and D7100 for landscape, only to find they in combination are of too much weight and volume for me to handle so I sold the D7100 and brought the X-T1 to have a try. Having used the X-T1 a few months, I have to say I am very satisfied and almost decided all my Nikon gears. I am not going to repeat what a lot have said about the X-T1. I decided to keep my Nikon gears as I found for serious landscape and night photography, it is not there yet to rival my Nikon D810. Other than that, X-T1 is the camera with me everyday!
i dumped my D7000 for the EM1.. I travel a lot and wanted fast autofocus and a lot of button functions, so i could quickly set HDR, monochrome, ISO changes..etc.. etc…
I print at most 9×12.
I knew i’d be f*kd on the ISO, but with lightroom or Dfine2 by Nik, the noise is well controlled with only a little loss in detail which , unless you are a pixel peeper, is not noticeable in print.
Since i travel a lot, i wanted all of this in THE SMALLEST PACKAGE. The APC sensor requires larger lenses and the m4/3 zooms are noticeably smaller and lighter than the XT1’s lenses.
So far i’m as happy as a pig in poop. The autofocus is lightning fast for my street photography and I CAN COMFORTABLY SHOOT AT 1/20 OF A SECOND with good sharpness. I have even printed 1/10th of a second.
Now maybe all this good news is due to the fact that i am using the $$$$$$$$ 12-40 2.8 lens. Maybe if i were using the kit lens, sharpness would be more of a problem.. but i figured that if i paid $$$$$$ for the damn camera then i had to get the $$$$$$ pro lens..
The only downside is that i find noise is an issue in low light. Even at ISO 200. I put up with this as , as i said, the noise can be handled in Post (only takes a minute to fix) and 90% of my shots are not taken at dusk or at night…
That all said, any camera has its burps so i live with the ideocyncronies with great pleasure…
steve
The first pro photographer who’s site I came across whose work almost immediately convinced me that MTF was a format I should seriously consider for my use was Jay Dickman’s. I find his images taken during his workshops, as well as round-the-world trip for Nat Geo, (-“Where is Jay?”), really stunning.
Hi All, great to read a well managed blog and informative post, thank you!
Christine, I’ve got the EM1, and can only add that this camera, and probably the XT1, are well built so you’re certainly dealing with professional equipment from that point of view. The one thing I need to get my head around is about the bokeh though, and I really mean the quality of the out-of-focus area, especially behind what’s in focus, rather than in front.
Equally as much as MFT have an advantage to reach that critical depth of field for some shooters, and so would prefer that format to APS-C, it seems the opposite creeps in when one wants actually some shallow depth of field: the bokeh seem to appear “nervous”, a bit shaky for no better words. The degree thereof obviously depend on the f stop used, but it appears to me that it is really prevalent on the incredibly good Olympus 12-40 2.8 lens.
Maybe I’m getting a bit too sensitive to this now, looking for that in every shot, but find it even in pictures taken with opened-up 25 1.4 Pana-Leica, 75 1.8 Olympus etc. The degree of this obviously depends on a number of factors, but seems to be there to a lesser or higher degree in “all” MFT shots with less than almost full depth of field, except for telephoto shots.
Bokeh is obviously a subjective matter but it seems that we have less lens choice to determine it’s quality than with larger formats. Any thoughts anyone?
I’m a ex-pro shooter filming wildlife now and as film gear always gets priority for space on shoots, is the EM1 a great solution to my thirst to every now and then shoot a stills….
Recently got my hands on the Fujifilm X-T1 with Fujinon 56mm 1.2R and really loved it for most part! My views:
Mritunjay,
generally, we try to keep *all* sort of advertising out of the website ;) You left quite a few such comments across the site, which is bordering on spamming. I’m letting you off this time, but please don’t do it again!
I shoot a lot with the f/1.4 primes on the X-E1 and X-T1 and you are absolutely right that 1/4000 isn’t sufficient for wide open daylight shooting, but neither does 1/8000. At sunny day’s you have to use a 3-stop ND filter anyway to shoot wide open, so that 1 stop advantage for the Oly still isn’t enough.
In all other cases, (from f/2.8 and upwards) 1/8000sec is almost rarely used.
Wat’s more anoying when doing a lot of long shutter photograpy, is the limited 30sec on the Fuji, which is almost default on any camera. Olympus did a good job by expanding this to 60sec, but for serious long exposures (blurring skies) 1 minute is still to short. I’d rather have an menu option to set this manualy to about 4 minutes, rather than buying an external remote to programm longer shutterspeeds. Very fast shutterspeeds are hardware dependant (curtain), but long shutterspeeds is a matter of software which can simply be implemented. So why are the most cameras limited to 30sec’s even in the most professional and expensive dSLR’s?
Thank you for the review and subsequent discussion; it is so difficult to decide on which camera to buy after selling my D800 and 24-70 lens. I am another person tired of lugging kilos of weight around!
Forgive me if I have missed reading this somewhere, but how does the battery life compare on each of the two? I read somewhere that the X-T1 has a pretty dismal battery performance but I haven’t read anything about the battery performance of the OM-D-EM1
I hate being on this fence and wish there was a hybrid of the two cameras with the best features of each.
I’ve been using the E-M1 since mid December. In practice I’ve gotten a full day of shooting with it by making some adjustments to the default settings.
Turn Off the rear LCD unless reviewing a capture or Live View
Turn Off full-time AF.
Turn Off wireless function unless you are actually using it
I’m easily averaging 700-800 frames per charge. I recently took it to Belize and never once had it die during the course of a shooting day.
Thank you for your reply Leigh. Very helpful and much appreciated.
I guess all these types of cameras need some fine tuning to a longer shooting time. 700-800 is much better than I was expecting (I’m sure I read somewhere that the Fuji will give around 300) and it makes sense to have a spare battery anyhow.
Chrsyfitz,
According to the reviews, Olympus has a battery life of about 350 shots. It is not a big deal for me – I’ll just put a spare battery in a pocket and I am all set.
I am getting OMD as soon as the silver version of its 25 mm f1.8 lens is available at B&H. From what I’ve seen, this camera does everything that I need, and the IQ meets my criteria.
Many thanks Val – I read it was a similar number for the Fuji. A spare battery has to be the way to go and also to follow Leigh’s recommendations (above).
May I ask what your criteria are and what made you decide on the Olympus? I am more in favour of the OMD (most of the time). Then I read something about the X-T1 and hesitate on the decision.
I live in rural Cornwall (UK) but I’m moving close to London in about 3 weeks. I have been reluctant to go out with my D800 for about a year now – and especially since I developed back problems about 5 months ago. So I decided to sell that beautiful piece of equipment. It’s no use if you are reluctant to carry it around. It would be ideal for studio work – but I love street photography and it is not a camera for that.
When I move to London, I will have such a rich city to explore and photograph. I want a camera I will always have with me. It also need to be subtle – as well as light – as nobody wants a big camera pointing in their face. And there is the safety angle. I don’t want to be carrying a piece of kit that looks expensive; I would feel very intimidated as an older woman on my own.
At the same time, I am studying for a BA in photography and I need a camera that has the capability of a DSLR, all the manual settings and, gives good quality prints.
Thank you again.
Christine,
I mostly shoot environmental portraits, groups of people, social event (formal and informal), street photography, cityscapes etc. Often shallow DOF is rather a curse than a blessing for me – with Nikon APS-C when shooting with a 35 mm prime at f5.6 often one or two people in a group are slightly out of focus. Stopping down to f8.0 helps to some extend but not in 100% of shots.
For me, having the entire subject in focus is more important than bokeh, so it automatically ruled out FF (even though I’ve been thinking about it for at least a year). With Micro 4/3 DOF at f2.8 equals the one of f5.6 with FF – this gives me 4 fold saving on ISO (m43 1600 vs FF 6400). In addition to this, I can go with a slower shutter speeds due to 5 axis image stabilization if the subject is static. This kind of negates higher ISO capability of FF.
Image quality – I compared Pentax K-3, Nikon D7100 and OMD1 at the Comparatometer web site. Image quality is virtually identical.
Lens quality was one of the most important factors. Just reading about Olympus lenses and Fuji lenses, I decided to go with Olympus. I will mostly use 25 mm f1.8 with occasional 75 mm f1.8 for portraits. Having shutter speed of 1/8000 will allow for a good bokeh in a well lit situation.
Long exposure noise is not a big deal for me – this is not my type of photography. Someone mentioned possible moire issue – I found that the amount of moire on OMD1 is not different from Nikon D600.
So, I see no reason why I should stay away from Olympus. Good IQ, excellent build, excellent features, excellent lenses, compact. What else do I need?
Hi Val
I really appreciate your reply; it sounds as though we favor a similar style of photography and all the points you mention are really helping my mind to focus. Greater depth of field without stopping down is a big plus. In addition, the OMD1 has that highly regarded 5 axis stabilisation. All important factors to bear in mind – and especially for on-the-hoof street photography.
I will take a look at the two lenses you are using. I have been considering one good zoom (although I much prefer prime lenses) the 12-420mm F2.8 Pro M Zuiko; it is expensive and maybe I’ll re-think that – although, I am keen on architecture shots and at 12mm, it gives a 35mm equiv of 24-80 which is still not that wide for architecture but not too bad.
And, I agree, the range of lenses available is a huge benefit – even more so for me because my boyfriend has a Panasonic Lumix GF5 – and I believe the Panny and the Olympus have the same fitting. He has bought a couple of good lenses even though he is not so much into photography.
It is great to hear that the image quality is similar to the D7100.
One final word – for any other Brits following this discussion (I read somewhere on the thread about the higher cost of the kit in the UK). I will be ordering from B&H; they deliver to the UK in 3 -5 business days and, even paying tax via B&H, and shipping, I think I will still save almost £400 (I just need to check the exchange rate on the day I order).
Once again thank you all for the help.
Christine
Hi, Christine,
Thank you for the reply.
Some clarifications:
1. I do not own OMD1 and lenses yet – all that I mentioned before is from internet searches. I plan to obtain 25 mm and 75 mm, and a good flash with a diffusor. Still waiting for 25 mm in silver body to become available.
2. Olympus 12 mm f1.8 is equivalent to 24 mm on FF. It is a little too wide for me. You may want to search online for image samples.
3. 12-40 mm f2.8 zoom – this lens is highly regarded and it is weather sealed. I just do not need it. I would better appreciate a really good and sharp wide angle in the 28mm – 35 mm FF range prime lens. This will be something to wait for. Their current 17 mm does not seem to be sharp enough which is understandable for a wide angle lens.
Hope this helps.
Christine, I also read that X-T1 battery life was “dismal,” but most mirrorless cameras in this range are going to be “dismal” — compared to a DSLR. As Nasim mentioned in his Mirrorless vs. DSLR post here, DSLRs aren’t powering an LCD or EVF full-time, hence the better battery life. I just got an X-T1 and I reckon that battery life will be similar to an OM-D-EM1. I do much of what Leigh Miller mentioned and have no complaints about battery life. I also carry 1 or 2 spares depending on how much shooting I think I’ll be doing for the day and so far I’ve never once thought “dismal battery life.”
I too have sold my D800 and most of my Nikon lenses; just this past weekend sold off my 24-70 f/2.8. I still have a D600, a couple of prime f/1.4 lenses, and 70-200mm f/2.8 VRII lens, but am sure all of those will go in the next couple of months, after the D600 comes back from its shutter replacement.
I’d recommend that you try out both the X-T1 and OM-D-M1 (at the very least in a store) to see which one feels better to you. Unless you like to seriously pixel-peep, you probably won’t be able to tell much of a difference in IQ between the two when printing at typical sizes. That said, while I shoot mostly RAW, I prefer the OOC JPGs from the Fuji over those from the D600. The Fuji film simulations are fantastic and it’s nice to be able to create multiple film simulation versions of the same shot (from the RAW file) right in the camera. At least for me, less time in front of Lightroom = more time behind the lens. :-) Side note, after using it now for a couple of weeks, the X-T1’s EVF has exceeded my already high expectations. You really have to see it to appreciate how nice it it. Regardless… Fuji X-T1 or Oly OM-D — either will be a great choice.
Sorry Christine — I wrote my comment last night in the browser but got sidetracked didn’t post it until this morning. (So, I didn’t see most of the other replies, including your camera choice, until now…) As I mentioned, either camera will be a great choice!
Many thanks for more valuable info Gerry. All opinions are welcome although the confused head, I can do without – but I am a Libran with tippy scales ;)
I agree totally, I have to see and handle both models before deciding. Details can sound perfect on paper yet when you see the camera in life and hold it in your hands, you can be seriously disappointed. I plan to get to a camera store that has them both in stock before making my mind up. Until I make the payment – I will not be certain which one I will be buying.
I like the idea of the film filters and agree that the less time in post – the better. The fact that the jpgs are good is another bonus.
One fantastic thing I have gained from this thread is how many people are making the decision I struggled with and are not regretting it. I did have qualms about selling my D800 knowing I would probably not be able to afford to buy one like that in the future. But I am completely reassured I have made the right decision for me; ie small, light and fast.
So a huge thanks to everyone who has taken the time to comment.
Hi, I’m another person sitting on the fence! At present using Nikon D7100 and D300, but looking for a lighter kit as not wanting to take a heavy backpack on holidays any more. I was looking at the Oly as I thought the M 4/3rds lenses would help reduce weight, but am now not so sure as people are saying that shallow depth of field is better with the Fuji, and noise for long exposure (seascapes) is an issue with the Oly. I take mainly seascapes (long exposure), landscapes, and macro. Also, with the 5x anti-shake on the Oly, can you actually switch this off as I guess that would cause issues with long exposure when tripod-mounted. Any comments would be hugely appreciated. Thanks
You may want to look at this blog, link below. I was going for the EM1, however, the long exposure is an issue with noise. Basically, Oly changed the sensor from the Sony to the Panasonic for this model, and, not yielding good results. The EM5 produces better results for long exposure photography since it uses the Sony sensor.
www.flickr.com/group…548153684/
I was in the same boat as you, with a full-frame Nikon and looking to lighten my load. Just carrying a D600 and a 24-70mm f/2.8 all day with kids in tow gets old. I ended up first with an X-E2 and now X-T1 and couldn’t be happier. I’ve sold most of my Nikon lenses since buying the X-E2 and happily also just sold that 24-70mm yesterday. :-)
Depth of field with the 23mm and 35mm f/1.4 lenses is very nice — not quite as “much” bokeh at f/1.4 as with the same speed lenses on a full frame camera but then I also welcome having a little more area in the focus plane with the APS-C sized sensor. The main thing for me is that they’re still f/1.4 (WRT to light).
You mentioned seascapes; here are few seascape photos I came across last week:
stephenip.com/blog/…ifilm-x-t1
Good luck with your decision. My decision has been “goodbye Nikon” — especially with the D600 fiasco that they have (and still lots of people complaining that the dust/oil issue still exists even with the new shutter mechanism.)
Thanks for the article. I would also like to read a comparison on lenses across the two system (and a full frame DSLR for reference), focusing especially on the quality (and the price) of the most useful ones: 24-70 and 70-200 pro zooms, 35-50-85 primes and taking into account also the different depth of field.
Low light performance?
Is OM-D E-M10 the closer competitor?
Thanks a lot for your comparison and the comments. It seems as if there is no clear winner, a decision is very difficult. I guess, comparison of high iso performance may become a key feature for many who do not yet know which camera to choose.
However, I wonder if not the OM-D E-M10 even better matches with many of the feature of the XT-1 and is therefore the closer competitor – for nearly half the price for the body.
Thanks for any comment!
Stephan,
if we start looking at it like that, every camera becomes a competitor. Overall, no, the E-M10 is in a completely different, lower class. On paper (but that’s the only way we can compare the cameras at this point) it has a much inferior EVF, it is not weather sealed, etc. A good camera, of course, but quite different from the X-T1.
Romanas,
Please allow me to challenge your view.
In my view, the E-M10 is on the paper inferior to the M1 in a slightly worse ( ;-) ) EVF (resolution but not the lag), the weather sealing, 5.axis stabilisation, shooting speed, hybrid AF and shutter speed (and handling). So, quite a lot difference, however, IQ is very similar if not identical.
Compared to the X-T1 the E- M10 is “less” inferior (in view of these rather technical features): only in three of these features: Hybrid AF, EVF resolution and weather sealing. However, the X-T1 does not have any build-in stabilisation. Both cameras have the same shutter speed range starting at 1/4000. I do not know how much the EVF lag differs and whether you will be able to see any real difference.
I personally would prefer the (though simple) stabilisation of the E-M10 and no weather-sealing over no stablisation and weather sealing.
But I cannot judge how crucial the diffence in the performance of the Hybrid AF of the Fuji over the AF of the E-M10 is (Is the hybrid AF of the E-M1 tested as being a “class” better than the one of E-M10?), and would love to get here more comments.
However, no question that a much better AF and the great EVF of the X-T1 have a big impact and can be worth the spent money. But, in my view both must be really superior to justify the high difference in prize.
What do you think?
Stephan, you are always welcome to challenge any of our views, especially if you continue to be so impeccably polite :) It is always a pleasure to have a well-mannered discussion, so don’t ever stop yourself from disagreeing with us if you feel you should. We are ordinary photographers, after all, and pretty much all that we write is an opinion, nothing more or less than that.
From a certain point of view you are, of course, right. You see, there is no better camera, these is a better camera for you. So if you do not need the advantages X-T1 has – tough build, amazing EVF, weather resistance, larger sensor and so on – those features will not be as important to you as they are to someone else. It is all about priorities, Stephan. But the E-M10 is undeniably from a class below and then some.
As for the AF, well, Olympus’ system is very, very quick. Hybrid or not. So I doubt you’d have any problems in that regard with either camera. Theoretically, X-T1 has more space for improvement in that area (and with Fuji’s record in bringing massive updates with firmware updates, there is a good chance that AF system will be improved further).