As you might already know, Lightroom is extremely slow when it comes to image culling. Although Adobe updated Lightroom CC to be able to fetch embedded JPEG previews from RAW files for the sole purpose of speeding up image culling, the process is still painfully slow when going through many images. In addition, looking at the embedded JPEG previews from the camera is far from ideal due to the fact that JPEG images do not contain enough information to be able to judge underexposure and overexposure. On top of that, if one has particular color, sharpness and other settings set on their camera, those settings could seriously impact JPEG previews and lie about what’s actually contained within the RAW file. In order to avoid such issues and move away from Lightroom’s horrid performance, I have completely moved my image culling process to FastRawViewer. Thanks to this lightweight and powerful software, I am able to cruise through hundreds of images and select the ones that I will import and edit, while making sure that bad images never make it into my post-processing software in the first place.
With the total lunar eclipse taking place on January 31 of 2018, you might want to experience watching and potentially photographing this rare and stunningly beautiful phenomenon. I previously had a chance to photograph both partial and total lunar eclipses, so I was able to document my experience and provide information on what challenges I had during the process. In this article, I will do my best to explain how to photograph a lunar eclipse in detail.
ISO is one of the three pillars of photography, along with shutter speed and aperture. Like those two settings, camera ISO controls the brightness of your photos, and it is a crucial setting to use properly if you want to take the best possible images. In this chapter of Photography Basics article, we will explain ISO using simple language and examples so that you can make the most of it for your own photography.
A number of DSLRs and mirrorless cameras today come with an important feature called “Electronic Front-Curtain Shutter” (EFCS) or “Electronic First Shutter Curtain” (EFSC), both of which are designed to eliminate camera shake originating from the shutter mechanism of the camera (commonly known as “shutter shock”). Shutter shock is an issue on all modern cameras, both DSLR and mirrorless, particularly when using longer focal length lenses and specific shutter speeds. In this article, we will explore the effects of shutter shock on your images and how you can totally eliminate it with the Electronic Front-Curtain Shutter mode.
The deeper you go into photography, the clearer it will be that everything is about emotion. Each decision you make – every single part of your thought process — matters for that one reason. A prominent example? Positive and negative space. These two elements of photography are important because of the emotions they carry. So, what are positive and negative space, and how can you use them to improve your work?
The way I see it, sand dunes are among the most wonderful places in the world. They’re the very definition of a windswept landscape — the product of our planet’s most fundamental forces. They also exist everywhere, from coastal regions to deserts that span entire continents. Below, I’ll offer some of my top tips for photographing sand dunes and getting incredible images.
Aperture is one of the three pillars of photography, with the other two being ISO and Shutter Speed. It might be the single most important camera setting in all of photography, simply because it affects so many different variables of an image. Aperture can add dimension to your photographs by blurring the background, and it also alters the exposure of your images by making them brighter or darker. In this chapter of Photography Basics, we will cover everything you need to know about aperture, all in very simple language.
Shutter Speed is one of the three pillars of photography, the other two being Aperture and ISO. Shutter speed is responsible for two particular things: changing the brightness of your photo, and creating dramatic effects by either freezing action or blurring motion. In this chapter of Photography Basics, we will explain everything you need to know about shutter speed, in very simple language.
Everyone’s favorite part of photography is camera equipment. I’m kidding, of course — although that is the impression you’ll get from certain photographers. But no one can deny that some gear is necessary in order to take pictures. At the very least, you need a camera and lens, but there are also important considerations like software and other accessories. This article dives into the most necessary and important camera equipment you need for photography, including some of our top recommendations.
Histograms are the solution to a fundamental problem in photography: Our eyes don’t always tell the truth. Have you ever been in a dark room, turned on your phone, and felt it blind you like nobody’s business? The same thing can happen in photography. Several times, I’ve taken pictures at night, and they look great on my camera’s LCD — until I open them the next day on my computer and realize they’re all hopelessly underexposed. Enter the histogram. This is one of the best ways to know exactly, mathematically, the brightness of your pixels. So, let’s dive in.