Near the western border of the Brazilian state of Rio de Janeiro lies the small coastal city of Paraty. It is surrounded to the north by forest and rugged cliffs, and to the south by the expanse of the Atlantic Ocean. I went to this charming city as part of a journey to see some bird species I had not seen before, and hopefully get a good photo or two. Hopefully.
Table of Contents
The Quest
Yes, it’s another one of my quests for birds! This time, I have a number in mind: 700. For weeks, my “life list” of different bird species that I’ve photographed has sat at 699. Just one more new species, and I’ll reach lucky number 700.
Who cares about a number? Well, I suppose I do a little. But what really matters is being out there, being next to a beautiful bird, and pressing the shutter. Click, my mind goes blank, and I cease to exist.
But this time, I’m nervous. Can I get to 700 species on my trip to Paraty? I think so. Can I get any good shots? Now, that is the question. For one week, I’ll be deep in the dark rainforest hunting for birds, without using any bird-feeding or call-playback. Whenever possible, I prefer to photograph birds with a minimum of interference.
For an instant, my mind wanders two years back to my trip to Arizona. Immersed in the cacti and the ocotillo with clear views for miles, great shots of birds felt guaranteed. But this is the humid rainforest of Brazil, where a bird can be right next to you and you might never know it – or even if you see it, the light may be too low.
Bird Species #700
It’s Sunday, and my wife and I are on the road to Paraty. There’s no time for any thinking, except on the topic of how not to make a wrong turn and get lost in the depths of Brazil, never to be found again. And I better pay attention to the winding road that leads down the coast. It’s steeper and more twisted than anything I’ve seen, and it’s got free road service for the broken down cars that appear every few hundred meters. I better remember to double-clutch to second on the way back.
Finally, we arrive at the first beach parking lot. Before I can even take one bite of a melting protein bar, something flies into the tree directly overhead… the Green-Backed Trogon! A pretty pair perches in the tree for a few minutes. The background is a bit busy, but it’s a worthy #700.
Then, at the beach, the sand is crisp and the ocean is beautiful. Even though it’s winter in Brazil, it is as hot as any summer’s day. I get the feeling of adventure, knowing that there are fascinating species ready to be found.
Of Sand and Forests
The center of Paraty has a mangrove and a mudflat. During low tide, people walk out for hundreds of meters into the salty bay. Combine that with free parking before 8 AM and soft morning light, and it feels like conditions are right for birding.
I’m thinking, surely there will be a few shorebirds? But I’m surprised to see Black Vultures right in the center of the mudflat. They seem peaceful, and they’re staring out into the sea, knowing that they will receive a guaranteed meal from the local trash cans.
The hilly islands in the distance are blue with haze, but I’m loving this haze as it creates the softest, powdery background. I use my camera’s flip-out rear screen for low shots. I really enjoy the look of the Vulture.
Not far off, I see a few shorebirds: Semipalmated Plovers and a pair of Ruddy Turnstones. A lone Magnificent Frigatebird hovers above while Kelp Gulls glide across the sky and Snowy Egrets are moving in their frantic way. Those Snowys never stop moving, unlike the more solemn Great Egret I see that stands in watch, backlit against the golden waves. No detail, no problem!
Compared to the upcoming rainforest, the light here is plentiful and smooth. I stand on the mudflat, and I’m hit by the sun rising in the distance, so I try some spur-of-the-moment landscape photography.
Unlike many mountains I’ve seen, I’m intrigued by how fast the fog and clouds move throughout the peaks and forests here. Sometimes, the scene changes drastically in a couple seconds, giving endless variations of color. I’ve limited my gear on this trip, so I only shoot with two focal lengths: 50mm and 500mm on the Z6 and D500. Those will have to do. Long landscapes it is.
Later, we drive to the Fazenda Bananal, a local farm that grows all the produce used at its restaurant. I made a mistake: It opens at ten, but we’re here at nine. No matter, there’s a deserted road that leads into the forest. Could there be birds there?
Yes, it’s great for birds, but it’s the darkest forest I’ve ever seen, and I can barely get a shot. Because the birds come close to the path, I am wishing I had a 300mm f/2.8 instead of my 500mm f/5.6! The bananas growing overhead are too high to reach as well. Ah, I’m getting hungry. At least now it’s time for the Bananal.
After lunch, a boardwalk trail leads into the dark forest. It’s only slightly better than the road, with my ISOs climbing to 12,800 even though the sun is high in the sky! Yet, the birds are bold, coming to the forest edges and even eating right next to the path. I try some longer shutter speeds to keep the noise under control.
Sometimes, the forest goes silent, and then in a slight clearing, there’s an explosion of colorful tanagers. Brazil has about twenty species of Tanagers, and most of them are quite colorful. My mind feels saturated and filled with the calls darting overhead, and my neck is strained. I can’t always get them, as they move so fast. But even if I miss them, I love watching them move around.
Winding Down
The days are passing quickly, and it’s almost time to go back home. It’s the last time on the trail and I’m not sure I got a single good shot today, at least of birds. But now there’s movement to the right: it’s a troop of Common Marmosets! They’re eating bananas, and there are one or two carrying a baby. The baby marmoset clings so tight that it’s not always easy to see.
That night, I look forward to dinner. Bird photography does make me very hungry. As I start making it, I hear my wife shout, “grab your camera!” I don’t hesitate because my wife has “the eye,” which means she has a talent for spotting rare birds, and this time she’s found a Tiger Heron.
It’s Rufescent Tiger Heron, right? But where’s the rufous? No, I verify in the book later that it’s a much rarer species, the Fasciated Tiger Heron, not seen in this location in over a year! I’m not thinking of identification, though, as I run down as quietly as I can to photograph it perched on a rock. It flies away… but just to another rock not far away! Yes, that’s not bad at all.
The next day, on our way back, it’s time for one last visit to the beach – parked at the same spot where I saw the famous “bird #700” on my life list. I look up at the same tree to see if another Trogon is there, but the trees are devoid of birds this time. Yet I spot something at the edge of the waves, skittering over the sand. It’s the Semipalmated Plover!
I get closer. It’s hard to believe, but the little Plover goes right up to the edge of the ocean, running as fast as it can whenever the waves come in. Its little legs seem just enough to keep it only inches ahead of the wave. After the waves recede, it goes right back and starts the game all over again, running just ahead of the wave. Yes, it might be a strategy for looking for food, but it looks a lot like it’s having a fun, too! What a nice way to say goodbye.
Looking Back
When I get home, it’s finally time to go through the photos – some from the Z6 and some from my even older D500, which probably will be replaced quite soon, but which has worked flawlessly as usual.
Looking back as I delete most of them, I’m struck by one thing: how surprisingly difficult bird photography has been here. With one of the thickest forests I’ve seen in my life, there were so many obstacles: branches in the way, hardly enough light, light too harsh, bird too high, bird too low, and even bird too close. Yet, after some work, I like the results. I told myself before the trip that I’d be happy with a couple decent shots for the week, and I wasn’t disappointed.
When I’m going through my old shots, I sometimes think bird photography isn’t so hard. It only takes one trip out in the field to bring me back to the real world. Even so, I can’t wait for the next one.
Top notch post! I hung on every word. Fantastic photos, too.
I am happy you enjoyed it, Guy!
I’m also “The Eye” because Jay needs new glasses but keeps postponing going to the ophthalmologist. I suspect that’s mostly because he can’t do any birdwatching in the waiting room. Jokes aside, I loved this article! you have a true gift of capturing the essence of adventure in your words and photos, dear.
I’m very happy you liked it. Though if the eye doctor’s office had a window to a tree with an owl in it, I’d go for sure!
Great piece, Jason, and what an eye for wildlife!
Thanks, Edric! I appreciated your previous comment also! Thanks for the encouragement.
Lovely story and photos. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks so much, Rob! I’m happy you enjoyed my story and shots!
Great photos – and an enjoyable article that not only captures interesting information but also makes the reader feel as if they were there along with you, exploring the forest and discovering the birds.
I really appreciate the compliment on my shots and writing. Thank you. I’m glad you enjoyed the style.
“Click, my mind goes blank, and I cease to exist.”
I thought about teasing you for your first sentence, but changed my mind after reading that bit of wisdom! :-)
Haha, I don’t know how I didn’t notice that. But I fixed the first sentence, thanks!
Congrats on bird number 700! After this trip, what number are you up to now?
Ah, I forgot to include that. I was thinking of writing a dedicated article about that as you suggested. Technically I am not sure as there may be 1-2 more species to identify. There are some tricky ones and I need to study them carefully. But it’s at least 736. Still 4264 more to go before I get to that life goal of 5000!
What will you ‘replace’ your D500 with?
I ask because I’m debating whether to replace my D7500 with one while they are, just about, still around. At £800 for a good used one, it seems a good bet against the £2,500 Nikon will want for a Z6iii.
(I could also upgrade my 300f4D to a PF to go with my 500/f5.6 PF. I don’t see Z-mount beating those, rather excellent, lenses. £3,600 is a lot to pay for a 400/f4.5 and 1.4 TC.
I also have a Z5. I quite like its wide area AF for birds in flight (and running dogs) and, frame rate apart, I’m not aware that the Z6ii actually outperforms it. I’d say the AF on my D7500 beats the Z5 (again, ignoring frame rate). The Z5 scores very well for landscapes with the 14-30 and 24-200 being a very transportable combo.
As you will gather, I’m not in the market for a Z8. I’m sure it’s superb, but it’s expensive. And I don’t need 45mp, but I do want 20+mp at 750mm.
I don’t do video.
Would a D500 be the right bet? Or do you think the Z6iii will seriously out-perform it, including in dx mode / with a TC?
I don’t understand why the D500 is considered obsolete. It is a great camera. I bought one just before Nikon retired it a year or so ago while I could still get a new one, and I love using it. I have its grandparent, the D300s, that I hated every moment that I used it. They did so many improvements to the D500, that you wouldn’t think it came from the same line. It has the best shutter that I’ve ever used. If you want an aps-c camera and don’t care about the z vs dslr thing, I believe you can’t go wrong with the D500.
Exactly, Elaine. I never meant to imply that the D500 is obsolete as I replied above. Getting a replacement for it is more a matter of my particular unit getting older and that I like to go in the field with backups. The D500 accompanied me on many trips and it’s supremely capable, and certainly acquires targets faster than most mirrorless cameras.
I am surprised by the comment about the D300(s). The thing was revolutionary when it was released. Nikon did not replace it for a long time after that, so it ended up being a bit “long in the tooth” near the end of its life – but at announcement, people were ecstatic about the opportunity to get 90% of a D2x at 1/3 (or whatever) of the price.
It was simply a preference thing. I just never liked that camera. I bought it to step up from the D70, but I was glad to replace it with the D800 just a few years later. Now that was a camera that I fell in love with the first time I used it. I don’t think there’s any explaining it. We love some things and don’t love others.
To be honest, I wouldn’t consider the D500 an obsolete camera at all! It functioned so well on this trip, grabbing focus very nicely with the 500PF every time. There is really nothing you can get that comes even CLOSE to the D500 + 500PF for the price.
I think the Z6III will be an outstanding performer, with features surpassing the D500 in SOME ways, but I do not think “outperform” will be the right word for it. The Z6III will probably have some things like bird eye AF, etc. but I do not think that will significantly improve your photography over the D500.
I’m looking at the Z8 though. Again, that’s not really because I think the D500 is obsolete, or that my photography will suddenly improve by a significant amount. It’s more a long the lines of an upgrade for someone who uses their camera a lot, and to have two cameras of roughly equal capabilities — right now I’m just using the Z6 as a backup, but the Z6 does have some serious troubles so I’m going to get the Z8 with the D500 as my second camera.
I am also looking at getting another supertelephoto, this time in Z mount, so the Z8 also makes sense there. And I definitely LOVE silent shutter and I do shoot video. However, even if I were to shoot with the D500 for the next fifteen years, I wouldn’t consider myself seriously disadvantaged, especially with the 500PF, which is an amazing lens for walking around all day.
Thank you both. Very helpful (and reassuring).
I was lucky to pick up a used 500PF for a good price, as I did 10 years ago with my 70-200/f4 and 300/f4D. They are all lovely lenses. With both a 35mm and aps-c body, just take which fits the bill for what’s on offer in the location and off you go.
I can well understand a better photographer than me getting a Z8. It looks excellent. I doubt I’d extract full value from it. Which is the point of me staying at my appropriate price point.
(BTW – 15 years would take me to 83. Long enough!).
I also echo others’ comments. The photos in this article and on this site generally are inspiring.
I’m a longtime photographer, but a relative beginner at bird photography, and nowhere close to the author’s level. I can say this: I recently upgraded from the D7500 to the D500, and the difference is bigger than I expected. Focus locks on more confidently, especially in dim light or on low-contrast targets. The D500 is noticeably better at tracking birds in flight. In single-point focus, the focusing points are much more precise. For birding, paired with the 500mmPF, I can’t imagine you’d be disappointed in the D500.
Hi Jason, This article for me is by far the best one you’ve written. I enjoyed it from beginning to end. I love the photos. I think they are truly magnificent portraits of these birds. I especially love the one of the semipalmated plover. Everything about that photo is beautiful. As a person who loves to photograph birds with almost no opportunity to do so, I love looking at your photos. Well done!
Elaine, thank you very much for your comment. I appreciate the encouragement very much, and I am very happy you enjoyed my story. I’ll keep up with this style of trip report for sure!