Over the past few months I’ve been getting more and more emails from people doing some investigation of smaller sensor, mirrorless camera systems like Micro 4/3 and Nikon 1. Quite a few of them are like me in that they are seniors, or soon-to-be seniors, with an interest in bird photography. Most are looking for a smaller, lighter system that they can use for extended periods of time, rather than having to lug heavy DSLR bodies and lenses around.
The majority of these folks appear to have already done some homework and certainly understand that there is a trade-off involved in terms of image quality when going from full frame gear to M4/3 or a 1″ sensor system. This article provides some insights on using a Nikon 1 V3 with the 1 Nikon CX 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 VR zoom lens for bird photography, along with some recent sample images. My birding kit has its permanent home in a small, lightweight Ruggard Hunter 25 Holster Bag, which I reviewed earlier. First let’s have a look at my birding kit in the holster bag.
As you can see my Nikon 1 V3 with the CX 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 zoom lens attached fits quite nicely in my Ruggard Hunter 25 Holster Bag. There is also room in this small bag for a battery charger, two additional batteries, 6 memory cards, a camera cable and camera strap…all of which are sufficient for me to do a full day session of bird photography. Ruggard makes different sizes of holster bags if the Hunter 25 is too small for your specific gear.
I typically use the shoulder strap on the Ruggard Hunter 25 Holster Bag when out in flat, easy terrain with my birding kit. If the hiking is a bit more challenging where I may need both hands to grip rocks, branches etc., and I don’t want the holster bag flopping around and banging against rocks and such, I remove the shoulder strap and wear the holster bag around my waist using my belt.
The Nikon 1 V3 has an 18.4MP CX (1″) sensor without a low pass filter. I’ve found that the image quality is quite acceptable for my purposes and it would likely also meet the needs of many hobbyists and some enthusiasts.
The somewhat limited dynamic range and colour depth of the V3’s CX sensor isn’t too much of an issue when photographing birds. For landscape images I turn to my Nikon 1 J5s and their 20.8MP BSI sensors and improved image performance.
With the EVF and grip attached the Nikon 1 V3 provides the most DSLR-like shooting experience of any Nikon 1 body with most setting adjustments accessible with external controls. I shoot birds-in-flight using Manual settings and let my ISO float with an Auto ISO 160-3200 setting. For perched birds I typically use Aperture priority with a specific ISO setting. I use VR for perched birds and turn it off for birds-in-flight.
It is a bit of a pain to have to take the grip off to change the V3’s battery. I only use the EVF and keep the rear screen turned off in order to reduce battery drain. If I’m shooting a lot of AF-C runs I can get at least 1,000 images or more from one battery charge. Micro-SD cards are small and a bit finicky, but one does get used to them.
The Nikon 1 CX 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 is an excellent lens with very good optics all the way through the zoom range, a solid build, and very good vibration reduction. Auto focusing is fast and accurate under good lighting conditions. The V3 does hesitate a bit in dark or very cloudy conditions.
I shoot in RAW so image noise isn’t much of an issue for me and I don’t hesitate at all to use a camera setting of ISO-3200 with my Nikon 1 V3. I will push this on occasion to ISO-6400 if needed as demonstrated by the image above. I’ve found that any noise shooting at these ISO levels can usually be dealt with in post quite easily.
The Nikon 1 V3 and CX 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 VR zoom combination only weighs about 2 lbs. (less than a kg) which makes it light enough for me to shoot all day long without any fatigue issues. When I was using full frame gear I could comfortably use my Nikon D800 and Tamron 150-600mm zoom lens for about 3 hours of intensive shooting before some fatigue would grab me.
The single frame auto-focus, and continuous auto-focus with subject tracking, are quite good with the V3 under good lighting conditions. This suits me very well as I seldom go out to photograph birds in inclement weather or in poor light. Folks who do the majority of their bird photography in darker conditions would be better served with a larger sensor camera system.
The V3 can shoot at either 10fps or 20fps in AF-C with subject tracking. The camera has a buffer size of 40 images. I recently published an article on my photography blog showing two complete AF-C image runs. One was of 22 images, the other 40 images. In both cases the V3 did a very good job acquiring and maintaining focus.
The Nikon 1 V3 can also shoot still images in full resolution at 30fps and 60fps. At these very fast frame rates the first frame sets focus for the balance of the run. These fast frame rates can be very effectively used to capture precise wing positions for bird subjects that are taking off or landing at a nest for example. The Nikon 1 V3 can shoot at shutter speeds of up to 1/16,000 when shooting at 10/20/30/60 fps. The V3 is limited to 1/4000 when shooting single frames.
Using a smaller, lighter kit can also help make it easier to capture usable images when shooting hand-held at slower shutter speeds. This is the case even when the CX 70-300mm is fully extended to 300mm, providing an equivalent field-of-view of 810mm, as you can see in the image above. This photograph was the sharpest of many attempts I tried one morning at Bird Kingdom shooting hand-held at 1/5 with the CX 70-300mm fully extended. It is a personal best for me in terms of the slowest shutter speed at this focal length which has yielded a usable image.
For perched birds I typically use single point auto-focus and capture single frames. The Nikon 1 V3 allows me to set that single focusing point virtually anywhere in the frame. This helps me get the exact focusing I want with an image without having to bother using ‘focus and recompose’ technique which I’ve always found distracting. If I’m capturing images of birds-in-flight and see a perched bird image opportunity I will do a quick single frame capture using AF-C if needed.
The Nikon 1 V3 paired with the 1 Nikon CX 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 VR zoom may not meet the needs of every photographer interested in bird photography. For folks who primarily shoot in good light and who are looking for a small, lightweight, easy-to-handle kit, it is worth some consideration.
Technical Note:
All images were captured hand-held in available light using a Nikon 1 V3 and 1 Nikon CX 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 VR zoom lens. All images in this article were produced from RAW files using my standard process of DxO OpticsPro 11, CS6, and the Nik Collection.
All images and article are Copyright 2017 Thomas Stirr. All rights reserved. No use, adaptation or reproduction of any kind including electronic or digital is allowed without written consent. Photography Life is the only approved user of this article. If you see this article reproduced anywhere else it is an unauthorized and illegal use. Posting comments on offending websites and calling out individuals who steal intellectual property is always appreciated!
Thomas,
Thanks for your great reviews! I was curious to know if a lens with longer reach was available for the V3. It seems like a lens like the Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6 might work with the adapter but then again it is 5 lbs. Seems like the cx70-300 might be the sweet spot. I’ve been using a Nikon P900 and now I want to be able to shoot BIF. The other option I’m looking at is the Sony Rx10 IV. I hike a lot with my gear so weight is definitely an issue.
Hi Joshua,
I’m glad you enjoyed the review! The longest native 1 Nikon lens available is the CX 70-300. I’m not aware of anything longer in development in terms of a 1 Nikon lens. Many folks do use Nikon 1 bodies with the FT-1 adapter on longer focal length FX lenses. I’m not sure how well this would work for birds-in-flight due to the weight as well as the very tight angle of view. It would likely be quite difficult to find a bird-in-flight in the viewfinder. It should work well for more static subjects.
Tom
Hi Tom,
Wonderful pictures, sort of poetry in motion where you capture the birds in flight. Love both your work and John Sherman’s, two different approaches and results but both beautiful in their own way. Also liked your response to your gear. I agree it’s not as important as your familiarity with what you have and how you use it out there in the field. Sure, we wish Nikon would be more rigorous with its more compact lineup (though recent events point to the opposite direction) but at the end of the day, it’s your artistry and technique that matters more than camera brand.
Your posts are a double treat – the prose that accompanies the wonderful images are as insightful.
Oggie R
Makati, Philippines
Hi Oggie,
I’m glad you enjoyed the article and accompanying images – and thank you very much for your positive comment! I agree that John Sherman does some wonderful work that is a real pleasure to view.
Tom
I love the bird photos and the way that you can work this camera, lens, and the editing software! Congratulations on your new slow speed of hand-held at 1/5 — that is totally amazing.
Thanks Joni – I appreciate your ongoing support! It has taken well over a year of practice and trying to go from 1/6th down to 1/5th. The next goal is 1/4…this might take a long time if ever…but I love to keep challenging myself.
Tom
Hi
Nice shots. I use an Olympus omd em1 mk1 and leica 100 to 400 giving 800mm of reach with the 2x crop sensor. The whole thing weighs 1.5 kg and the results are great for bird photography. The kit is a bit heavier than the Nikon 1 system but is still light enough to walk around with all day.
I did consider the Nikon 1 as well but the bigger sensor m4/3 system appealed to me more whilst still being a relative lightweight
Hi Stephen,
It sounds like your Olympus/Leica combination is doing a great job for you, as well as giving you the size/weight you need!
Tom
Liked your article,but I am surprised at your choice of camera. The Nikon 1 V3 is not 1 of the choice mirrorless cameras on the market. That belong to Olympus, Panasonic Lumix, and Fuji. You did get some really good shots, but Nikon is nowhere in this mirrorless game.
Hi Joe,
Each of us needs to decide what gear best suits our individual needs. I’ve shot with Nikon full frame, Nikon APS-C, and M4/3 (Panasonic GH4) in the past and by far I’ve been the most satisfied using my Nikon 1 gear. So much so that I had no problem selling my D800 and all of my F-Mount glass back in July 2015. I haven’t regretted that decision for even a moment since that time.
I’d be the first person to say that the Nikon 1 system may not be the best fit for other photographers depending on their specific needs…but for me it has been perfect. I own 6 Nikon 1 bodies (1-V3, 2-J5, 3-V2) and over a dozen 1 Nikon lenses and shoot with the Nikon 1 system exclusively. I absolutely love using the Nikon 1 system for both my personal stills photography work, as well for my photography and video client assignments. I’ve never had even one of my industrial clients question my choice of gear. All they care about is the quality of the work I produce for them.
Whether a particular camera is popular or not is of no concern to me whatsoever. As long as my gear does what I need I’m a happy camper…and Nikon 1 does that for me in spades.
Tom
Using same bag with Olympus OMD-EM1 with MZuiko 75-300—Kit is larger but still can be dealt with all day and work in that great bag
Thanks for sharing your experience with the holster bag Robert!
Tom
Hi Thomas,
You are a master with your Nikon 1 cameras, and your post-processing is definitely part of your success. I’m a serious bird photographer that has used a variety of Canon DSLRs and larger L lenses for over 10 years. That became too heavy and I have transitioned to the Olympus MFT system. Recently I travelled to the Falkland Islands on a bird photography trip, where the weight and size of your gear had to be kept to a minimum. I used two Think Tank Holsers (one with Olympus with 12-40/2.8 and 40-150, the other with Canon 7Dii with 100-400) each with additional batteries and cards which were easy to carry for a full day and provided plenty of protection from the elements. Those two holsters plus the 300/4 in its own case fit nicely into a small MEC carry-on roller bags. It was great and a huge change from what I had travelled with in the past. I have found holsters to be a terrific weigh of transporting my rigs. I too have found the Ruggard line very satisfactory.
Thanks for the supportive comment Glen – most appreciated! Also, thanks for sharing your experiences using holster bags with your bird photography gear. This provides some good insights for other photographers who may just be getting started capturing images of birds as to the benefits of this type of camera bag.
Tom
I enjoy reading the articles that Photographylife provides. I do a lot of bird photography with my Nikon D500 and Tamron 150-600 lens. For my travels/vacations, I leave the heavy gear at home and take my Fujifilm X-T1 and 14mm and 18-55mm lens. (I used to take my Nikon and a few lenses but got tired of the weight). Thomas, I’m wondering if you would know if the 100-400mm Fujifilm lens is a good one for birds and birds in flight? Thanks.
Hi Monica,
Unfortunately I have no experience at all shooting with Fuji camera gear so I can’t comment with any first hand experience on the 100-400mm Fuji lens. I know that there are lots of Photography Life readers that use Fuji gear. Perhaps they can provide some insights.
Tom
I have the 100-400 and tried it also on birds – mixed results. The lens is good although I like the results of D810 with Sigma 150-600 sports a tadd better. But that lens I changed against a Tamron 150-600 G2 because I have no the muscle structures to handhold it for long.
I don’t know about AF capabilities of the X-T1. On X-T2 it’s snappy – if there are not too much twigs in between which distract AF. What I don’t like so much: manual focus-by-wire is horrible IMHO. The focus limits are wrong for me: 5m…infinity or full – I’d need a setting closer, say minimum distance to 5m. Are you used to use the benches in the menu of the D500 to quickly set up the camera from one situation to another, Monica? These I’m used to use on D810 and I miss them really on the X-T2. Most birds got away without a picture because I had ot enough time to adjust all the necessary settings. If you get the shot – great, but with your Tamron on APS-C you have 50% more FL than the Fuji. On the other side, the Fuji 100-400 with body and grip fits in a ThinkTank holster 40 – for the Tamron and Nikon I need a backpack.
Thanks for sharing your experiences Joachim!
Tom
Excellent images and tempt me to buy a Nikon1 J5 for travel. How many images did you shoot to get the one usable/excellent image? I own a non VR Nikon 70-300mm f/4-5.6 lens. Do you recommend to use it with an adapter as you have said that you turn off VR for birds in flight?
Hi Mohan,
If my memory serves I took about 15-18 attempts at a shutter speed of 1/5. I’ve been trying for over a year to beat my previous best of 1/6 and I usually try some slow shutter speed images every time I visit Bird Kingdom.
I checked on the Nikon website and the Nikon 70-300 f/4-5.6 is listed as being compatible with the FT-1 adapter so it should work. If you are planning on using that lens with a J5 you need to remember that the J5 does not have an EVF which makes photographing birds-in-flight challenging.
I used to own the FX 70-300 VR lens and it wasn’t that sharp at the long end. The 1 Nikon CX 70-300 is a far superior lens in terms of image quality. If you use your F-Mount lenses with the FT-1 adapter you will be limited to a single focus point in centre frame that cannot be moved.
Tom
Great images (As always) – 3/4 sensors have come long way, but unfortunately for my area of photography we still drool over mid format digital backs, so something like D810 or 5DS R or 5D MK IV is a must…. (Fashion)
Glad you enjoyed the images jj! Each of us needs to invest in gear that best meets our needs.
Tom