In a wildlife photographer’s toolkit, binoculars are essential. They make it possible to spot and observe distant subjects, allowing photographers to understand animal behavior without causing disturbance. While cameras and lenses are necessary for taking the photos, binoculars play a significant role in field research, providing tactical advantages and efficiency in wildlife photography.
Table of Contents
Look, Study, Photograph
Wildlife photography requires patience. And not just that – it is essential to have both knowledge and respect for your subject. It is not just a quest for images.
The process begins when you look for your subject and try to study any animals you locate. Binoculars are indispensable for this task. Using only one’s eyes to scan a vast mountain slope for Eurasian Dotterel or Rock Ptarmigan isn’t feasible. Even a bull deer can be challenging and frustrating in the hills and large spaces.
Binoculars, with their ability to “bring the world closer,” allow for efficient and discreet exploring or surveying of large areas, increasing the likelihood of sightings.
Photographers aiming to remain mobile and inconspicuous cannot afford to carry a camera mounted with a large lens, using it as a telescope, while exploring new locations. Moreover, for photographers using mirrorless cameras during extended stakeouts, binoculars help conserve battery life by reducing reliance on the electronic viewfinder or LCD screen for observation.
Wildlife photography almost always follows those three steps: look for animals, study a subject, photograph it. The first two steps are helped tremendously by having a good pair of binoculars.
Understanding Behavior for Memorable Shots
The role of binoculars extends beyond mere “spotting.” Just as important as finding an interesting subject is understanding it.
Observing from afar without causing alarm allows photographers to study an animal’s behavior: its habits, favorite spots, hours of greatest activity, and interactions with its environment and peers. This knowledge provides a valuable tactical advantage in photography. It allows you to select the right time and place to set up your camera, tilting the odds in your favor of capturing memorable images.
By watching a Great reed warbler through my binoculars before setting up, I realized that it loved perching on this one particular cane. Even when it left, it would return. Knowing this, I didn’t need to try frantically following the warbler around with my camera. Instead, I framed the image below, and I simply waited for it to land in the right spot. It did so a few minutes later.
Considerations When Buying Binoculars
Choosing the right binoculars requires understanding some fundamental parameters that define their performance and usability in the field. For example, I use the Nikon Monarch M7 8×30 model, which embodies the characteristics of a versatile all-rounder: lightweight, sturdy, with excellent optics for its range, and affordable compared to other renowned brands.
As with photographic lenses, binoculars have a pair of specifications that correspond to a focal length and aperture. With binoculars, these are called magnification and lens diameter.
1. Magnification and Lens Diameter
In the case of my Nikon Monarch binoculars, you’ll notice that the name includes the specification “8×30.” These numbers represent the magnification (8x) and the aperture (30mm).
Magnification indicates how much closer an object appears. An 8x magnification makes an animal at 80 meters seem like it’s at 10 meters. In photography, this can be compared to telephoto lenses. An 8x magnification corresponds to a focal length of about 400mm on a full-frame camera, while a 10x magnification would be around 500mm.
Lens diameter refers to the front lenses’ diameter in millimeters, determining the instrument’s light-gathering capability. Unlike photographic lenses, binoculars have a fixed “aperture” linked to the combination of diameter and magnification. A brighter view is not indicated just by the lens diameter, but by the diameter divided by magnification. For example, my binoculars have an aperture of 30mm/8x, or 3.75mm. (A higher result is a brighter pair of binoculars.)
2. Size and Weight
I chose my pair of binoculars because they are relatively small and light. It is common to find binoculars that have a longer focal length than mine, a bigger lens diameter, or both. In fact, such binoculars are not always much more expensive – Nikon, for example, also makes a 10×42 version of the Monarch binoculars, which is both longer and brighter than my 8×30 pair. And the prices are similar at $459 for mine and $497 for the 10×42. But I value traveling light and mobile, so I settled on the smaller pair.
3. Field of View
Field of view is an important consideration when choosing a pair of binoculars. Don’t think that a longer pair is always better. My 8x binoculars capture a relatively wide field of view – approximately 140m wide if you focus 1km away. Non-photographers may prefer longer binoculars, or even a spotting scope, to view distant animals. But I find the wider field of view at 8x is perfect for scouting and searching for animals for photography.
4. Optical Quality and Anti-Reflective Coating
The quality of the lenses and internal prisms distinguishes good binoculars from mediocre ones. High-quality lenses, such as extra-low dispersion (ED) ones, reduce chromatic aberrations, yielding sharper images with more accurate colors. Fully multi-coated anti-reflective treatments enhance brightness and contrast in the final image. While a cheap pair of binoculars is far better than nothing, there is a reason why most wildlife photographers eventually choose a higher-quality pair.
5. Ergonomics and Focus Adjustment
Binoculars should be comfortable to hold for long periods. Design, balance, and rubber coating contribute to a secure grip. The focus wheel should be smooth, precise, and easily reachable with a finger, even when wearing gloves. For eyeglass wearers, adjustable eyecups (twist-up) and good eye relief (the maximum distance at which the eye can be from the eyepiece while seeing the entire field of view) are crucial for comfortable use without removing glasses.
6. Durability and Waterproofing
Field use demands an instrument that can withstand shocks, dust, and bad weather. Binoculars made of magnesium alloy or reinforced polycarbonate offer a good compromise between strength and weight. It is even better if externally coated with rubber. Waterproofing and gas filling (nitrogen or argon) prevent water and dust ingress and internal lens fogging due to temperature changes, ensuring a clear view in any condition.
Ethics and the Joy of Observation
Nature photographers have a responsibility beyond capturing high-quality images. Protecting wildlife is imperative, and binoculars are a way to observe from a distance and respect animals. Approaching closely, especially during sensitive moments like courtship, mating, brooding, or caring for young, can cause stress and potentially lead to nest abandonment or compromised reproductive success.
Binoculars enable photographers to observe intimate moments without disturbing the animals. This ethical approach often yields superior photographic results, capturing spontaneous and genuine behaviors. Additionally, observing wildlife through binoculars satisfies the intrinsic pleasure of nature observation, regardless of the shot.
Conclusion
Integrating a good pair of binoculars into your kit is a strategic choice that improves the quality of your photos and increases the respect we show to nature. Binoculars help transition a photographer into a naturalist-photographer, more aware and connected with the wildlife they photograph. Whether scouting new spots, studying wildlife behavior, or just preserving a mirrorless camera’s battery during a long stakeout, binoculars have proven to be one of the most valuable assets in my bag as a wildlife photographer.
I hope you found this article useful and take it as inspiration to bring binoculars on your next wildlife photography outing. If you have any questions or feedback or just want to share your thoughts about this topic, please don’t hesitate to leave them in the comments section below.
I recently bought a M7 8×30 for my mum, and a Monarch HG 10×42 for myself.
The rationale for choosing a heavier model was two-fold:
1) on many occasions, I use more binoculars than my camera, so I wasn’t ready for a compromise regarding brightness;
2) Nikon Monarch M7 and Monarch HG, when it comes to 10×42 are among the lightest on the market, and probably the lightest with this quality, only 680 g!
The rationale for choosing the pricier one was threefold:
1) I’m maybe old school (not snobbish, huh!), but I liked the idea of getting binos that are still made in Japan, which is getting increasingly rare – not so long ago, the price range below was also made in Japan. This is also true for Europeans brands, particularly the big three (Swarovski, Zeiss and Leica), with those brands, if you care about European industry, you have to buy ‘alpha’ binos;
2) The bridge is shorter, which make them more comfortable to use with one hand for quick looks – which is important when your photo gear is out, and you need to move fast – this is obviously not an issue with the M7 30 mm ones;
3) I saw a real difference in brightness, although I’m not quite sure if it was because of a dimmer setting or because of some flares, which might have decreased the contrast. I was really surprised to see this much of a gap during my side-by-side comparison. But to be honest, I still have to see the difference under real conditions.
The rationale for the 10x magnification was two-fold:
1) I’m used to use 16x binos, so I’m already gaining a lot of field of view and spotting power while still having a bit more reach compared to 8x;
2) I ran into one of the most well-known ornithologists in my country just a few days prior to my purchase, and he was using some Swarovski 10×42 (heavier than Nikon ones), and told me it was the sweet spot for birding.
Some advice:
1) find a brick-and-mortar store that has a good range of binos, in order to compare – in my country, we cannot buy and return at will –, of course, only time (after the purchase) will tell you what you really need, as for instance, some people eventually find that they absolutely cannot stand chromatic aberrations;
2) forget the strap that comes with your binos, find a good harness; I’m currently enjoying the Rick Young harness, which is quite useful to limit swinging when walking – binoculars with open-bridge binos (so not Nikon ones) will probably swing even less with it.
I recently bought a M7 8×30 for my mum, and a Monarch HG 10×42 for myself.
The rationale for choosing a heavier model was two-fold:
1) on many occasions, I use more binoculars than my camera, so I wasn’t ready for a compromise regarding brightness;
2) Nikon Monarch M7 and Monarch HG, when it comes to 10×42 are among the lightest on the market, and probably the lightest with this quality, only 680 g!
The rationale for choosing the pricier one was threefold:
1) I’m maybe old school (not snobbish, huh!), but I liked the idea of getting binos that are still made in Japan, which is getting increasingly rare – not so long ago, the price range below was also made in Japan. This is also true for Europeans brands, particularly the big three (Swarovski, Zeiss and Leica), with those brands, if you care about European industry, you have to buy ‘alpha’ binos;
2) The bridge is shorter, which make them more comfortable to use with one hand for quick looks – which is important when your photo gear is out, and you need to move fast – this is obviously not an issue with the M7 30 mm ones;
3) I saw a real difference in brightness, although I’m not quite sure if it was because of a dimmer setting or because of some flares, which might have decreased the contrast. I was really surprised to see this much of a gap during my side-by-side comparison. But to be honest, I still have to see the difference under real conditions.
The rationale for the 10x magnification was two-fold:
1) I’m used to use 16x binos, so I’m already gaining a lot of field of view and spotting power while still having a bit more reach compared to 8x;
2) I ran into one of the most well-known ornithologists in my country just a few days prior to my purchase, and he was using some Swarovski 10×42 (heavier than Nikon ones), and told me it was the sweet spot for birding.
Some advice:
1) find a brick-and-mortar store that has a good range of binos, in order to compare – in my country, we cannot buy and return at will –, of course, only time (after the purchase) will tell you what you really need, as for instance, some people eventually find that they absolutely cannot stand chromatic aberrations;
2) forget the strap that comes with your binos, find a good harness; I’m currently enjoying the Rick Young harness, which is quite useful to limit swinging when walking – binoculars with open-bridge binos (so not Nikon ones) will probably swing even less with it.
Binoculars need not be limited to assisting in Photography, for myself the Photography on occasion is the accompanying Tool to the Binocular.
Some interactions with nature are for the very best when left as just that, leaving the camera at rest with the interaction being encountered having the outcome a Memory is made only.
Binoculars can at such a time be the tool to make the observation feel there is a intensity to the activity be seen.
Thank you, John. A very good point. I rarely go out just with binoculars, I’m too much in photography. But at the same time I think that focussing on observation is the essence of love for nature. Bravo!
For me, a thermal imaging camera is definitely a much better fit. It allows me to spot an animal immediately, even if it’s slightly obscured by vegetation. Then, with a stabilized camera and telephoto lens, I can observe in peace and maybe even take a picture. You’ll hardly be able to spot a mouse a few meters away or an insect on a leaf with binoculars, but with a thermal imaging camera, it’s no problem in seconds (yes, even insects).
Thank you, Peter. Your comment expands the scope of the discussion.
A friend of mine own and use a very good thermal camera and I used his one (and see a lot him using it)
I agree with you that it is the best tool to find out animals, expecially if there is a lot of vegetation in between. Having said that, the observation thru them, say, isn’t the best experience. For this very reason I still prefer binoculars.
But I agree it is a matter of my taste and that they are outstanding tools.
This is a very useful article for me, thank you! I had been looking for something solid for a long time, but it’s very confusing with so many models, and a binocular costing more than €1000 seems really crazy to me. And as you mentioned, weight is also an important factor. I have seen your model here in Belgium for a good deal at €319.00. Your images are fantastic again, beautiful soft colors and atmospheric!
Sadly, binoculars are like lenses: tipically, the more you pay and the better quality you get.
But like lenses, the improvement over a certain level of quality starts to become specific for a specific usage (check my test about the 600s).
If nothing else, I buy the argument for conserving battery life, and also transportation ergonomics! Conserving strength and battery life, two very important aspects.
Thank you for your comment, Kurtz.
Couldn’t agree more. Absolute great addition to ‘the kit’. Like lenses, investing in better glass pays off. I use a pair of Leica trinovid 8×32 binoculars. Light weight but also amazingly light strong. And that for years and years. My experience with more affordable binoculars is that they did become less bright over the years.
Okay Frode, I also agree that Leica is excellent (if Swarovski is comparable to Ferrari, Leica is comparable to Porsche).
I completely agree with the importance of a good pair of binoculars for wildlife photography. I happen to use Swarovski Pocket Cl binoculars which are small and very light weight. Another very useful accessory is the Mr. Jan Lens Carrier System which has a small pouch in the front to hold a small pair of binoculars in front. Thanks for writing this article!
Swarovski is like the Ferrari of binoculars. I’ve considered buying one but always reconsider due to the high price. I’m certain they are exceptional.
There exist VR – vibration reduction, not virtual reality, though I would like to see that – binos too. Have an excellent 12×36 pair for birdwatching and astronomy. VR is quite indispensable at that magnification, which would otherwise be almost unusable due to shake. It’s more effective and much more handy than a tripod.
VR binos with weather sealing and ED glass are rather too expensive – brand-new 70-200mm f/2.8 or more expensive, sadly.
Thank you, James, for sharing your experience. The 12×36 binoculars with VR are indeed exceptional tools. However, the recommendation I propose is slightly different, designed more for scouting rather than solely for observation.