Buying photography equipment for the first time is a daunting task. Useful guides exist to help beginners choose a good camera, but few newcomers realize that the camera itself is only the first of many pieces of equipment necessary to create a full setup for photography. In this guide, I will suggest a complete kit — everything from lens cloths to computer monitors — that will provide a beginner with high quality images (and room to grow) for a price of around 2000 US dollars.
Note that this guide is not a comprehensive list of equipment that will work for every type of photographer. As your photography becomes more specialized — portraiture, landscapes, wildlife, or anything else — you will gravitate towards more specialized equipment as well. The recommendations below can be considered an all-purpose starter kit rather than a list tuned to one specific type of photographer.
1) The Camera
The core of photography is a camera, or at least the sensor of a camera. At the moment, one of the biggest debates in the photography world is between two different types of cameras: mirrorless and DSLR cameras. Both have their merits, but a beginning photographer on a tight budget should be looking more closely at DSLRs. With entry-level models, new mirrorless cameras cost about the same as new DSLRs, and sometimes less. However, you can still buy older, high-quality DSLR equipment (including lenses) for a lower price than similar mirrorless gear. Mirrorless cameras are filling this gap quickly, but the best camera for a beginner on a budget is almost certainly a DSLR.
Of all the possible DSLR cameras, my strong recommendation is to buy the Nikon D7000, used, from the camera store Adorama. Some people find too much risk in buying a used camera from eBay and Adorama is one of the most respected names in the camera business — when they rate a used camera at E-, its condition will be as good as most “mint” cameras sold through eBay.
The D7000 is better than an entry-level DSLR because it give you room to grow. Although it has the same sensor as some cheaper cameras, it gives you so many more features (including extra dials that make it easier to change settings once you learn about your camera) that make it indispensable. How do I know that the D7000 is so good? Simple — I have taken more than 60,000 photos with it! Check out the three images below, all taken with the D7000:
To find some more info and sample photos from the D7000, check out our review. If you want more details on entry-level Nikon DSLRs, we have a general outline as well.
Keep in mind that the D7000 can be a complex camera for a beginner. However, if you’re dedicated enough to be reading this article in the first place, you are probably the type of person who will grow to appreciate the many benefits offered by the D7000.
Here is a link to the Nikon D7000 at Adorama. Note that this camera has been discontinued, so you have to click on the “Buy it used” heading to see your options. Generally, an “E” quality D7000 will be about $400.
Another great option, especially if you are just starting out, is one of Nikon’s entry-level DSLRs. These cameras have slightly-better image quality than the D7000, and they are easier to use, but they don’t have as many features for learning photography. Nikon’s newest is the D3300. When you buy it with a kit lens, the D3300 from Adorama is $500.
Total: $400 for the D7000
2) Lenses
Whereas a camera sensor will record the light that it receives, a lens’s job is arguably even more important: help the light get to the sensor in the first place.
Lenses range from the “free” — those which come in a kit with the camera — to the unbelievably expensive. As a beginner, it can be tough to determine which lenses are worth their asking price, especially if you have no prior knowledge of which lenses even exist in the first place (although our lens database can help).
If you want a high-quality beginning lens for the lowest possible price, you should look at prime lenses (those which do not zoom) or third-party lenses. I do not recommend starting with the kit lens that comes with some cameras (usually an 18-55mm zoom), since you will soon realize that you want something better.
My first recommendation, if you use a Nikon camera like the D7000, is to buy the wonderful Nikon 35mm f/1.8 DX lens. This tiny gem is sharp — check out our sample photos — and it costs just under $200. Here is a link to the 35mm f/1.8 DX at Adorama.
To add to the 35mm f/1.8, you will probably want a wide-to-telephoto zoom, and a good choice is the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 OS lens. This is a particularly useful lens because it not only has a wide aperture of f/2.8 (which lets it work well in dark scenes), but it also has image stabilization to help make your handheld images sharper. Here is a link to the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 OS, which costs $520 at Adorama.
Or, if you would rather stick to a single lens, the revolutionary Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 is $800, and it would replace both the lenses above. It is a heavy lens, but it is amazingly high-quality — just check out our review. Here is a link to the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 lens at Adorama.
Lenses are an individual decision, and these three are nothing more than my own recommendations. If you practice a more specific type of photography (such as wildlife), you could prefer completely different lenses. However, for a typical beginner, these lenses are a great way to find out what type of photography you like the most. Plus, they are good enough to keep even as you grow more specialized.
Total: $720 or $800, depending upon the lenses you choose
3) The Tripod
Often overlooked and undervalued, a tripod doesn’t seem nearly as important as it really is. After all, three aluminum sticks glued together are no more complex than three sticks glued together. Right? Unfortunately, that logic is why many photographers choose to buy the least expensive tripod they can find, then leave it at home all the time because it’s cheaply-made and hard to use. A tripod should be as popular as its buddies Camera and Lens, but somewhere along the way it got the short end of the stick.
You will realize over time whether or not you need a tripod for your photography (and if you do, you will want a more expensive model at some point in the future), but it is important for a beginner to have a solid model as well. With that in mind, my recommendation is to get the Manfrotto MT190X3 tripod. It is not a perfect tripod, but I can say (having used the older version of this tripod extensively) that it should be more than enough for most beginners. Plus, at $150, it is pretty inexpensive (as far as good tripods go). Here is a link to the MT190X3 at Adorama.
However, a tripod is not enough — you still need a ballhead so that you can adjust the position of the camera. I have tried a handful of ballheads in the $100 range, and I can say that the best (by far) that I have used is the Oben BE-126 ballhead. Even with my heaviest camera and longest telephoto lens, this ballhead has never slipped out of position, and it always locks tightly. This head isn’t quite as good as the most expensive ballheads from companies like Really Right Stuff or Arca Swiss, but it is fantastic for the price. Here is a link to the BE-126 at B&H, another highly-reputable camera store.
Total: $260
4) Software
There is a lot of competition for software that processes images, with the two most popular options being Capture One Pro and Adobe Lightroom. These two programs are similar — they both allow you to organize and edit your photos — but Lightroom is far less expensive. Some argue that Capture One Pro is better (whereas some argue the opposite), but Lightroom will is ideal for those on a budget, since it costs half the price. For what it’s worth, I only ever use Lightroom, and I find it to be wonderful.
To purchase Adobe Lightroom 6 for $145, visit this link to Adorama. Note, though, that some products (including the lenses that I listed earlier on this page) can be bundled with Lightroom and save you an additional $40. If you want, you can also download trial versions, both for Capture One Pro and for Adobe Lightroom.
Also, don’t give into the temptation to buy Photoshop just because it is so popular — most photographers will not actually need its features, since it is more of a graphics-oriented specialist program than something like Lightroom. Plus, it is far more expensive (and the newest version is only offered through a frustrating subscription program).
Total: $140, but $100 when you bundle Lightroom with a lens.
5) Monitors
If you are a just starting photography, your current monitor probably is not good enough for serious editing work. Specifically, the colors on your screen will almost certainly be wrong — you will not be editing anything how you think you are.
Check out our monitor purchase guide for more information, although note that several new monitors have come onto the market since it was published. One of the best new models is the AOC 12367FH 23” screen. Don’t be fooled by the bizarre name — at $160, this is one of the least expensive IPS monitors on the market, and you absolutely need and IPS monitor if you want to do serious color work on your computer. Yes, better options exist (often for significantly more money), but this monitor is a great start for a beginner. Here is a link to the AOC monitor from B&H.
Unfortunately, getting a good monitor is only half the battle — step two is color calibration. My strong recommendation is to buy a piece of hardware to calibrate your monitor, such as the $60 Spyder4Express. It does not have all the same features as its $190 older brother, Spyder5Pro, but it gets the job done for a much lower price (assuming you only use one monitor). I edited my photos for almost a year without any calibration, and I never realized how wrong my colors really were. I had to re-edit everything! Save yourself some time and buy a real calibration unit. Here is a link to the Spyder4Express from B&H.
Total: $220
6) Lighting
Disclaimer: I don’t use much external lighting for my photos, mainly because I do not take many images of people. That said, most photographers will need a flash at some time or another, whether for portraits or for creative still-life photography.
Nikon brand flashes cost hundreds of dollars, assuming that you want a flash that can function off-camera in an automatic (TTL) mode. However, third-party flashes with those features can be fairly cheap — check out the Yongnuo YN-568EX, an extremely well-specified flash for the price of $105. Depending upon the genre of photography you practice most, this may be the only flash you need. (Or you may need dozens more — ask any portrait photographer!) Here is a link to the Yongnuo flash at B&H.
You may also want some light modifiers (such as reflectors), but I don’t recommend getting anything more until you are sure that you want to do portrait photography. There is no end to the world of light modifiers, and a beginner should learn the basics before deciding which complex lighting setups to buy.
Total: $105
7) Filters
Filters are another essential element of a photographer’s toolbox. With digital cameras, only a few filters are even necessary in the first place (the old color-correction filters for film can be replicated using software like Adobe Lightroom) — but some filters cannot be replicated in post-processing. The single most useful filter for digital photography is a polarizer. Just like polarized sunglasses, these filters cut glare from shiny surfaces (other than metal), they darken skies, and they reduce haze. Plus, they make images look more vibrant and saturated.
If you are not a landscape photographer, you will want a polarizer because of these benefits — and if you are a landscape photographer, you will probably never remove the polarizer from your lens! Depending upon the lens or lenses that you use, you will need to get a polarizer of a specific size. Polarizing filters (and filters in general) are sized in millimeters — just like the front rings on a lens. For a lens with a 72mm ring (like the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 that I suggested above), you would need a 72mm filter.
If you are on a budget, buy a polarizer that is the same size as the filter ring of your largest lens. For example, you may choose to go with my suggestion to buy both the Nikon 35mm f/1.8 DX and the Sigma 17-55mm f/2.8 OS. If you do, these lenses have different filter ring sizes — the Nikon is 52mm, whereas the Sigma is 77mm. To use the same filter on both lenses, get a 77mm filter a plus a 52mm-to-77mm step-up ring. This is a lot less expensive than buying two filters!
Filters can be expensive, and with good reason — a bad filter will harm the image quality of every image you take. So, don’t skimp on a filter! One brand known for a good balance of price and quality is Hoya, which is my first recommendation for a beginning photographer.
Here is a link to the Hoya 77mm polarizer at B&H. You would use this size if you choose the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 OS lens, which has a 77mm filter ring. This filter costs just under $90.
Here is a link to the Hoya 72mm polarizer at B&H. You would use this size if you choose the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 lens, which has a 72mm filter ring. This filter costs $60.
Here is a link to B&H for the 52mm to 77mm step-up ring that you would use on the Nikon 35mm f/1.8 lens, if you also bought the 17-50mm f/2.8 lens (which has a 77mm filter thread). This ring costs less than $4.
If you decide that landscape photography is your favorite type, you will probably need two additional filters: a graduated neutral density filter to darken skies (get a rectangular graduated filter, not a circular one) and a regular neutral density filter to blur moving water. However, both of these are specialist filters, and I recommend waiting until you know what you want before buying either. For now, a high-quality polarizing filter should be more than enough.
Total: $60 if you bought the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8, a bit over $90 if you bought the Nikon 35mm f/1.8 and Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 OS.
8) Extras
You will definitely need a bag for your camera, but I recommend against buying one new from a store. Generally, you’ll be able to repurpose an old backpack or messenger bag to carry a camera — if not, try finding one at a garage sale. Instead of paying $50 or more for a bag, you can get one for $5 or less if you buy secondhand and local. I would recommend a remote release for your camera. For the D7000, try the $15 ML-L3 (here is a link for the ML-L3 at B&H). I have owned two of these — they are easy to lose, so be careful — and both have worked quite well.
Make sure to get cleaning equipment for your lens. I recommend that you get two or three lens cloths (this $4 microfiber cloth from B&H is great), as well as a cleaning spray (here is a link to a two ounce spray at B&H for $3). In total, this will be about $10.
In addition to a lens cleaner, you need a way to get rid of dust that lands on your camera’s sensor. The best way to do so, and the safest, is to use the Sensor Gel Stick, which we sell here at Photography Life. It costs $55, and you may want to buy some extra sticky paper for another $13. Between the two products, your sensor-cleaning equipment will cost no more than $70.
I also recommend an extra battery. That way, you can be shooting while one of your batteries is charging. I strongly recommend getting a Nikon-brand battery — cheaper batteries from third parties can be tempting, but this is one part that you really don’t want to malfunction. Here is a link to the Nikon EN-EL15 battery at B&H, which is the battery that works for the Nikon D7000.
Lastly, you will need memory cards. The D7000 can take two SD cards at a time, and its images take up a relatively large amount of space. I recommend getting two 32GB cards so that you don’t run out of space — the 32GB card from PNY Technologies is a wonderful value at $20. I can vouch for this card completely, since I use the 64GB version in my Nikon D800e camera! Here is a link to the 32GB PNY card from B&H — remember to get two.
Total: $190 or less
9) Summary
If you’re keeping track, that’s a lot of equipment you’ll need — far more than just a single camera and a kit lens. However, no matter how many reviews and comparisons you read, you will be hard-pressed to find better items than these. I have personally used most of the items on this list, and I know other photographers who have used the rest. It can be daunting to start a DSLR system from scratch, but you will have truly everything that you need if you buy the items listed in this article.
When I bought my first DSLR, I soon realized that I had spent all my money on the camera and I had left nothing for a tripod, filters, or a good monitor. I had to wait months before I had a complete and working kit! To make this process easier, I compiled all the information above into an easy list.
Here is a final compilation of the items above — a complete and high-quality photographic kit for under $2000 US dollars:
- A camera — Nikon D7000 — $400
- A lens or lenses — Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8, or both the Nikon 35mm f/1.8 DX and the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 OS — $800 or $720 respectively
- A tripod and ballhead — Manfrotto MT190X3 tripod and Oben BE-126 ballhead — $260
- Editing Software — Adobe Lightroom 6 — $100 if you bundle it with one of your lenses, $140 on its own
- A calibrated monitor — AOC 12367FH 23” monitor and Spyder4Express callibration unit — $220
- A flash — Yongnuo YN-568EX — $105
- A polarizing filter — The Hoya 72mm polarizer (for the Sigma 18-35) or the 77mm polarizer with a 52mm to 77mm step-up ring (for the Sigma 17-50mm and the Nikon 35mm) — $60 or $90 respectively
- Smaller extra items — A remote release, a microfiber cloth, a cleaning spray for your lens, a Sensor Gel Stick to clean your camera sensor, additional sticky paper for your Sensor Gel Stick, an extra battery, and two 32GB memory cards — $190
Grand Total: $2135 for the one-lens setup, $2085 for the two-lens combo.
Ok, so that’s a bit over $2000. Buy one of these items used, or ask for a polarizer for your birthday, and you’ve hit the $2000 mark. Congratulations!
If you get the items above, you truly could go for years without needing any more photography equipment. And, when you do decide to buy more specialized gear, all of these items are high-quality enough that you can keep them around for a long time.
Also, although Photography Life receives a small portion of the sales whenever you buy something from the links in the list above, we are not affiliated in any way with the products in this article (aside from the sensor gel stick, of course, since we are selling it on Photography Life)! I am recommending this equipment because it is some of the best for the money, not because a manufacturer is paying me to recommend their product. Also, you will never pay more for an item by clicking on these links — buying them here is just a way to thank us for all this research and testing.
I hope this article has helped you see what you need to put together a camera system for a moderate budget. I am happy to answer any questions in the comments section below, and feel free to recommend your own favorite gear to our readers!
Theoretically, knowing all this could be a good idea, but practically I don’t think it works this way. Typically, for a beginner photographer it will be extremely difficult psychologically to spend or even to prepare to spend $2K. Therefore, one should think about the purchases as a long process.
The way I see it is this:
1. First comes a camera with a kit lens. Used D7000 is a smart choice long term assuming one will be getting AF-D lenses, but for many D3200 will be a better choice. It makes better video and it has better image quality. Try to explain to a beginner why D7000 is a better choice than D3200 and you will fail 99% of the time.
2. Second first is the lens. Kit lens. If buying D3200 one will most certainly get 18-55. With D7000 one may (and should) get 18-105.
For most this will be a time to take a break from purchases and simmer with what they have.
3. Next on the list will likely be an editor/organizer. Although Lightroom is great and I would whole-heartedly recommend it, it costs money. Therefore, one may do with Picasa at first.
Again, it is time to pause and play around with available capabilities.
4. Next good purchase could be a diopter for that kit lens. Get the cheapest one, $10-20 and start playing with macro.
5. After that one may want to get a fast portrait lens to get that subject separation and the creamy background. i would argue that the cheapest way of doing this would be either with 50mm 1.8G of D depending on the camera choice.
6. Only with good amount of time when one is ready to shoot RAW and spend time editing one would go for Lightroom. The big benefit would be noise reduction and in the new version – ability to remove distracting objects.
How much does this time-line cost? I would say $600-$700. Try explaining to a beginner why they should spend $2000 vs $700.
actually Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC HSM will be better choice for a first DX lens (for just 130 or so more than 50mm)
Whether it’s a better choice as a first non-kit lens is debatable but Vitally specifically mentioned portraiture and in that regard, a 50mm 1.8 is better on an aps-c camera. It’s also cheaper and can still be used if our beginner moves up to full-frame. As an aside, our theoretical beginner may have some bad experiences trying to shoot at f/1.4 and become VERY frustrated.
Vitaliy,
Thank your for your suggestions! More than the prices, the crucial part of this article for a true beginner is the additional equipment that is necessary (or extremely important) for high-quality images. I agree that putting a price tag on it can be daunting — on the flip side, dedicated photographers will buy all this equipment eventually, so it can be nice to see what costs lie ahead.
I agree that many beginners will be best-served with an entry-level camera, but I also think that such a camera does not offer as much room to grow. It’s a difficult choice — personally, I would have rather started with the D7000 than the D5x00 series camera that I actually chose, but I may be an outlier.
Good point on the diopter — that’s a wonderful way to introduce beginners to macro photography.
If the beginner you describe is planning to take family vacations shots more than anything else (which I think is the case for most beginners), your recommendations are spot-on. I tried to recommend gear that would be better for someone a bit more dedicated to learning photography, but I certainly could have said that with more clarity. For example, a family-vacation photographer would never need a calibrated monitor or RAW processing software, but these items are essential for someone starting from scratch who wants to learn a lot about photography and take the highest-quality images possible.
Thank you for putting this article into perspective. I think it all depends upon the type of person who is buying their first camera, and I completely agree with your idea of waiting before you buy more advanced equipment.
~Spencer
Hi Vitality,
Thank you for the suggestions. I have a Nikon d3300 right now. Would you recommend me to get a D7200? I read your comment above about trying to explain to a beginner about getting a d3200 rather than a d7000. So I just want to double check with you.
Thanks,
Bonnie
sure – except –
software – $10 per month is much better deal (Photoshop CC for photographers) –
extras should be limited to just a lens cleaning kit and a high quality makeup brush (beats the lens cleaning brushes) and card.
Flash – Neewer VK750 II i-TTL ($55 – I like it just as much as my SB-800 – actually charges faster – I have 3 of them)
Tripod – MeFoto Aluminum A1350Q1 for $150 will be more than enough
That’s over $250 savings – could be used to purchase better than grade E junk (grade E is junk – 699 will get refurbished 7100) – I would take these savings and add 50 to get that 7100 :)
Also – to save an additional 450 – Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC HSM will do just fine for first DX lens :)
so now we are talking 1600 for refurbished D7100 (instead of E class junk) – sorry, this was not really great article (and I love this site)
Jacek,
I’m sorry that you did not like the article, but thanks for your feedback.
There are so many random items within these categories, and my goal was not really to recommend the best of the best for every person — instead, I wanted to list the types of equipment that a beginner would need, then mention some examples within each category that I found to be high-quality.
The MeFoto tripod is a good idea, and it works if you are trying to save some money. However, with four twist locks on an aluminum tripod, I would be very surprised if it stops vibration nearly as well as the combination I mentioned above. Also, unless you buy through eBay, it’s actually $200.
Personally, I have bought almost all of my equipment (including my D7000) used at Adorama, many of which had a rating of E. None of them were junk at all — in fact, they were all essentially brand new. I am very surprised that you seem to have had a bad experience buying such a camera from them, since that has not been the case for me at all.
Also, I really do not see the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 as the best option for a beginner on a tight budget, since it is a more specialized lens that costs $300 more than the fairly similar Nikon. I am surprised that your first recommendation for a beginner on a budget is to buy a lens like the Sigma, however good it is. Especially when it means that the Sigma is your only lens — don’t you think that a beginner should be able to test out different focal lengths before deciding that they only want one prime?
These are just my opinions, of course. None of the specific items that I listed are the 100% best options for every person, so I completely understand if you disagree. But personally, I would rather have two good lenses (a constant-aperture zoom and a prime) and a great tripod over one great lens and a good tripod.
Regardless, thank you for contributing your suggested equipment. Especially your recommendation for a flash — that one seems like a better option for a beginner than the Yongnuo in the article.
~Spencer
Spencer, 30mm f1.4 (not 35mm art but a dx one) can be purchased for around 350 on amazon (and a focal length on dx would be 45mm on nikon dx) as can be meFoto tripod I mentioned (I paid 160 for it and it is just as sturdy as much heavier manfrotto which I also have – got meFoto to shave off weight and have a monopod whenever I want – it is now the only tripod I use) E category is junky (unless you think of A rating) – I think refurb D7100 for 699 is better buy than E rated D7000 for 400 (which will cost less when paired with that sigma 1050 vs 1200 for your camera/lens combo) – just saying :)
Jacek,
I thought you were referring to the newer 30mm f/1.4 art (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/918893-REG/sigma_30mm_f_1_4_dc_hsm.html/BI/5562/KBID/6400). Now your recommendation makes more sense!
I am still surprised that you think an E rating is junk. You must have had an unusually bad experience, since all the items I have bought (including my D7000 at an E rating) were essentially flawless. Or maybe I was just lucky : )
In terms of a newer camera + one lens versus an older camera + two lenses, I think that different people would have to choose based upon their needs. I actually agree entirely with you — personally, I would rather have the combo with the 30mm Sigma. However, I could never recommend such a kit to a beginner, since I think all beginners should at least have the ability to try a high-quality zoom (I did, and I realized that such a lens was not for me), as well as a high-quality prime.
I appreciate your different perspective on the article. All beginners have different needs, and you highlighted an excellent example.
~Spencer
I think you got lucky with the E rating (there is a reason something costs very little – what was the exposure count on your E rated D7000?) – Maybe I am partial to prime lenses that’s why I recommended the 30mm prime vs zoom, but you may be right – zooms may be more practical for majority of people (btw – to start with 17-50mm f/2.8 OS should be all one needs) – I just can’t go back to even high end zooms (other than my 150-600 tamron which, imagine that, is usually locked at its sweet spot of 400mm F6.3 :) ) – but that’s me (4 primes and a super zoom its what I have :) – well, after I sell my 24-120 f4 – I just NEVER shoot with it – and I mean NEVER!!!)
it was not bad article, don’t get me wrong, I just have a “stir up the pot” personality – :)
cheers
J.
No worries, I definitely understand : )
I am with you on this one — I have three lenses, and all are primes (24mm, 50mm, and 105mm). I used to own the Nikon 17-55 f/2.8 for my D7000, but I realized that such a lens was not at all for me. I don’t mind being in the minority on this, either!
~Spencer
Yes, a beginner will certainly love photoshop and it’s 10 per month forever recurring fee. Plus all the books and videos needed to purchase to learn the program will make a beginner’s photography experience a real joy.
In my experience, software can make photography tedious. Why spend hours adjusting photos, just to hear friends and family say, “those are nice pictures”, after looking at each photo for about 1/2 second. My technique is delete, crop, and move on. I don’t need every photo perfect. Life is too short to deal with these programs, especially if you are a beginner. YMMV
the image straight out of the camera will never be as good as edited (and it should not be as we should shoot for the best dynamic range) – thankfully modern software almost always allows you to save adjustments so they can be easily applied to a similar images – attached are just 2 examples of before and after
Thanks for posting those, Jacek! They are great images, first, but they also show the usefulness of post-processing. I may be in the minority, but I love to fine-tune my images (sometimes adding hundreds of edits to get a photo perfect).
Although I do see how some beginners would not want to bother with software — mainly people who only take out their camera for family shots. But for anyone looking for the highest quality, post-processing is absolutely the way to go.
~Spencer
Yeah, but I am also always trying to perfect a “repeatable” process, so I can post-process 99% of images quite quick. Only about 1-2% of shots deserve really fine tuning but my goal is to never spend more than 1 min on an image (minus first in the sequence which a template gets created from) – I may have 5-7 master template images which get 5 min or so each and then the rest gets less than a minute this way I can go trough many images quite quick and still have them 90%+ perfect. Only selected few get full attention :) – thanks for the complements about images – they were in the 90% category – quick edits (as there is NOTHING special about them)
this is assuming that the photographer doesn’t need an UWA….
Good point — for some genres of photography, an ultra-wide is essential. However, I find it hard to recommend a lens like this to a general beginner, since UWAs take some practice to use properly (without leaving too much empty space in your images).
Thanks for the comment!
Yes. And also, for example, I started photography with wildlife in Africa. We live here for now. So regular safaris are a given. In these circumstances I started with an 18-270 tamaron. I also (I admit to being very lucky to be able to do it) very quickly moved to the 70-200 and added the 200-400. But these are very wildlife specific needs … I did invest lots while still in the very early part of the learning curve and I have no regrets. Having said that, I am just now struggling to learn to get the best off wide angles and medium ranges!
Swati,
If you are in a place like Africa, the wildlife opportunities make it a requirement that you get a good telephoto! In your case, the equipment you have makes a lot of sense.
Yep, wide angles are tough to use well. Good luck!
~Spencer
I would love some tips to make it easier to use wide angles. I feel a bit silly that I get some awesome (sorry, that is not modest, but I think true – I will happily share pictures for your assessment!) shots of a leopard or lion or elephant or a bird in flight and can completely muck up a sunset! Sigh.
That’s what i’m going to said…..maybe it’s better to recommend a telephoto instead of the expensive 18-35 f/1.8. The 55-200 f/4-5.6 it’s an incredible lens for its price. Not everyone can spend USD2000 to start. I started with half of that ammount, because the prices in my country are almost the double of USA prices.
This article would be better if you show more lens options (maybe UWA and telephoto) and budgets (1000,1500,2000USD). A lot of people would be commenting alternatives for all the items in the post, but that’s personal.
Thanks for the article.
No tm1126. I, personally, disagree. It is not better to recommend a telephoto unless you are a beginner with my unique requirements – wildlife. Or maybe certain kinds of sports. You tend to become addicted to reach. You begin to feel insecure about not having got “close” enough. And then you are stuck in a place like me … Unable to handle wide angles! Or worrying about the quality of a cropped picture. I am beginning to have to widen my vision, literally and figuratively. At least that is he handicap I am beginning to face! And believe me it’s a very painful learning process,
tm1126,
There are so many possible lens choices that it is tough to suggest a perfect kit to anyone. As you said, I did not suggest either a wide angle or a telephoto, and both of which can be useful for a beginner — if for no other reason than to give the beginner some experience with different types of lens.
My goal was to suggest equipment that would allow a beginner to see which types of lens he/she enjoys, yet still be high enough in quality that it will not be replaced.
I agree that the 55-200 is a good lens at that price point, though, and I would not hesitate to recommend it to a beginner, if I thought that the beginner would get a lot of use from a telephoto. Thanks for your different perspective!
~Spencer
Swati,
I will be going to Iceland in the next few days, and I will be sure to write an article about composition with wide-angle lenses after I return! In the mean time, my biggest suggestion is to avoid using an ultra-wide as a gimmick. Don’t exaggerate foregrounds without a reason — it can be easy to take an unnatural image with a wide angle.
I would love to see some of your images! Perhaps you could also attach some wide-angle photos that you don’t like as much, so that I can offer more specific suggestions?
~Spencer
Just wanted to chip in on the first purchases a new photographer makes, a camera, and a starter lens. The higher resolution and higher spec of a D5x model (D5200, D5300) would outweigh the ‘pro’ control set of a 7x camera any day of the week – with a beginner in mind. The ability to crop more tightly from the resulting higher res image is a huge bonus, as new photographers do not always see the right composition until they become more expert, some months or years down the road.
On the lens front, I ditched my 18-105mm for the newer 18-140mm Nikkor because the 18-105mm on my higher res camera, revealed unsharpness, (after changing to a 24mpix camera – before this, the lens was ok) the 18-140mm is definitely sharper and has more contrast, and slightly more zoom range. It will remain a popular lens so, again, down the road, it would be easy to recoup much of the price paid, when the owner felt ready for something a little more ‘pro’. This combo will deliver sharp images capable of very large enlargments, and satisfy the new photographer for a while.
If the bug of the hobby bites, there is plenty of time to upgrade later, without losing much money on these purchases. D7000 is a fine camera, but if the newbie was getting my advice, and could afford a little more, I would suggest the D5300 or D7100 as a launchpad.
Everything else is open to personal taste, and interests, as the hobby develops, so purchases would be made ‘along the way’ rather than upfront in one go… for one thing, the new photographer wouldn’t have enough experience to make the right choices until he or she has grown into the hobby for a while.
Just my take.
AutofocusRoss,
I completely see what you’re saying, and I think that we just have different beginners in mind. Although I may not have done so particularly well, I tried to recommend the D7000 on the basis that its complex options (which would be a negative for many beginners) would give a dedicated and interested novice more room to learn photography, even if it offers fewer pixels.
Your suggested options are probably better for most beginners — I was more thinking about the equipment I wished someone had recommended to me as I started, but my needs certainly aren’t normal : )
Thank you for your valuable suggestions.
~Spencer
Hi Spencer, I think you’re spot on, we are thinking about different ‘beginners’. I am getting on a bit, and maybe sometimes I forget that younger people, aka ‘beginners’ are more adept at picking up the technical side than perhaps I was, at that age. This is technologically driven stuff, and easy to forget, in this age of smart phones and e-commerce etc.
Though that said, I still feel the Mpixel resolution trade between a D7000 and a D5300 might leave the beginner’s first thoughts (later on, when thinking about upgrades) towards changing the D7000, whilst maybe persevering with a D5300 in order to get a better lens.
We all come at this from different backgrounds, with different photographic interests and needs, but one overarching thing about the higher res D5300 would be that, especially where family shots are being taken, the images are recorded at the highest possible (by todays standards) image quality and resolution, making their longevity somewhat better… who knows what technology will come, in the future, to capitalise on that very thing.
In the days of film, we sacrificed shutter speed and aperture to shoot Kodachrome ISO 25… makes you think!
As a D5200 user, I’d agree. The only issue is the lack of AF-fine tune, but for someone using a kit lens that doesn’t matter. And Sigma’s new lenses can be fine tuned with the dock, so there are plenty of great options out there even for the fast glass. I’d go with the D5200 for the kit lens user, videographer, landscape shooter, or still life/fine art/commercial shooter. The D7000 is a great option for the sports, event, wedding, wildlife, or portrait shooter though, in my opinion. Often I considered picking one up as a second body to have reliable focus with my 105mm f2.8 for sports.
Hi Lauchlan, you have the sigma 105mm af dg hsm? and you use it for sports? you must get razor sharp images out of that. I know because I own the lens too, and it is my mainstay for macro. I honestly never think of using it for general photography @ 105mm because it is twice duplicated with my 18-140 Nikkor, and my (latest model – important to note this!) Tamron 70-300 VC.
As a sports shooter I would urge you to take a serious look at that Tamron. Two online reveiws (faysmedia and matt granger) both are quite staggered at how good the image stabilisation is, and they compare it favourably to the Nikkor 70-200 f/2.8, which is quite amazing, given the price is about a quarter to a fifth of the Nikkor depending on where you buy one – though obviously, it is an f/4 – f/5.6 (but nikkors own 70-300 VR is an f/4.5 – 5.6 so you have a half a stop improvement at the 70mm end).
For sports, set to AF-C and 5 fps burst mode, with the IS on, you should be getting great shots from one!
On the camera body thing, as I said above, for general and hobby photography it has to be either the D5200, 5300 or 5500 on the basis of resolution, cropability (used by an inexperienced photographer who can recover poorly composed shots while learning the basics of the art). so we are in full agreement on that one. Let us know if you try that Tamron.
Hi Ross, yes, it’s a great lens. I break it out for night football and hockey, where that f2.8 really comes in handy. When I bought my D5200 it came with the Nikon 55-300, so I use that for when I need more reach and it’s bright out, like day soccer and rugby. I wish that I had’ve known about the Tamron when I was getting started, since the 55-300 is slow to focus and from all accounts the Tamron is a great alternative in that range. Now that I’m done school and won’t be shooting sports as much, I’ll probably save up for a 150-600 (or my dream lens, the 120-300). If I upgrade to full frame and need a telephoto lens on a budget, I’ll definitely check out the 70-300 though – seems like a good way to get some reach without breaking the bank!
Lauchlan, I owned a Nikkor 55-300 for about two years and I have to say, in total sincerity, it was a piece of junk compared to the Tamron. Before you spend a single cent, or penny, on any other lens, you simply must get to try out the Tamron. I also owned, after my Nikkor 55-300, the Nikkor 70-300 VR and though it was a good lens, there is no doubt that the Tamron beats it, by a fair way. To explain better, I think the Nikkor and the Tamron 70-300’s are close, optically. That said, the focus is quicker on the Tamron, and the VR, or VC as they call it, is absolutely miles better.
Like any lens with VR, don’t expect it to deal with subject movement. VR (VC) is only able to detect camera movement, same as it ever was!
Hope this helps, I really hope you get to try the new Tamron out before you get that ‘dream’ lens – you may be very surprised, I hope so!
Regards Ross.
Thanks for the tip, I’ll be sure to try the Tamron as soon as I get the chance. Glad you’re finding yours handy!
Having used and subsequently had stolen my d7000 as my first dslr, I can certainly say it’s a great camera for a beginner – who did not know aperture from shutter! My only real concern to this article is that it is completely based on availability of the d7000 second hand. Frankly not all of us live in parts of the world that have access to adorama or even eBay! Otherwise I would have replaced my 7000 by now! So it would be nice to have options to the suggested body?
Also, it would be great to have an article like this for a starter kit on the mirrorless camera … Especially for those who already own and use dslrs. Yes we can do, and have done, lots of online research. But it’s nice to get a professional’s perspective and also that of someone who has access to trying different brand and lens combinations …
Just a thought …
Thank you for your feedback, Swati!
I do not have enough mirrorless experience to write a similar article in that vein, but someone else at Photography Life may do so in the future.
Yes, the downside to recommending a used camera is that it may not be available to all our readers. Unfortunately, the D7000 is the least expensive camera with a semi-professional body (not counting older cameras with less current sensors) — perhaps you can find a D7100 somewhere? Its improvements are nice, although it is indeed more expensive.
Yes, I recall those days of confusing metering with aperture — I wrote this article for people who are so new to photography that they don’t yet know any of the necessary equipment (you would not believe how many times I have been asked whether or not a camera needs a lens to take photos!)
Of course, I was like that as well — I remember that it took me several hours to zoom my first lens, because I couldn’t fathom the fact that you had to turn it mechanically!
Thanks again for your comments!
~Spencer
Actually, once you have cropped a telephoto image from the D750 to match the same area as the same lens used on a DX body, there should be absolutely no difference in the images, assuming you used the same settings for both. (Although there will be more pixels on the DX image). This phenomenon is a bit counter-intuitive, but we have an article that explains it fairly well: https://photographylife.com/sensor-crop-factors-and-equivalence
Of course, cropping a D750 image by 1.5x will give you a much lower-resolution image (about 10.6 megapixels), so it will not be the same quality as a 24-megapixel DX body, even if the images have the same depth of field and all other properties.
Your question is hard to answer because I do not know how much you are cropping the D750 image. If you are cropping by 1.5x, a DX body will still be better; if you are cropping by 1.2x, I would think that the D750 image will appear to be higher-quality. I would shoot some test scenes to see how far you are willing to crop.
~Spencer
Thanks Spencer. That is much much appreciated. I have done some cropping, and yes I admit I stop at a point where the picture looks ideal in quality. So, I guess that’s what you mean. I have already been figuring out that to get a decent cropped picture I am having to consider that as I frame the picture and zoom accordingly rather than just depend on blind luck.
Great, I am glad that you are working on a good solution! Good luck with your tests.
~Spencer
I am new to the Nikon D7100 but not to photography. When you purchase a used camera you have to look at the amount of pictures taken with that camera before you decide to get the camera. I bought my D7100 used someone had already used my camera and total pics taken was 298. I looked at similar cameras some never offered up this info and i believe a few tried their best to hide this info in the description. One camera was the same model I have that had taken already 75,000 pictures. They wanted the same amount as the one I purchased that had the 298. Both had a kit lens, the one I did not purchase had the 18-55mm and the one I did purchase had the 18-140mm.
I was amused by this because each camera was offered by a different company. shipping and camera price was a tad over 900 dollars for the one with the 18-140mm lens, and I grabbed it. Maybe it was a good deal or not. The one I believe was a good deal but i lost the bid was on a Nikon D7100 that sold on ebay for 440 dollars. No lens included. Plus free shipping. I tried my best though to get it pictures taken on that camera was less than 30. Hubby got it for wife, and wife freaked out because it had more controls than their car had. She just wanted a camera so he put it on ebay and bought her a point and shoot.
The biggest thing I noticed on whom was doing the offerings was that some of those ebay offers have actual stores. Many are all over the world. If you live in a certain area, then check ebay first, see who is selling them yes it is tedious work, but well worth the research when cost of the equipment and shipping and handling are a issue. Find the name of a store in your area on ebay, and visit their official website, and view on ebay too to see where you will be getting the better deal. Many do not list on their official websites they have an ebay page. You never know but the store you love also has a ebay page. The company I bought my D7100 from has a huge camera shop operation in Canada. The best deal they offered was on their ebay page.
Weebit,
Thanks for the eBay buying suggestions! I have bought a few pieces of equipment through eBay, and my experience has been a mixed bag. I once tried to buy a 14-24mm, and the seller took a few weeks of time-wasting emails and beating around the bush before I called off the sale. If I had stuck to your advice, things probably would have gone better!
Good tip about checking the shutter count, too — it’s easy to get burned by a misleading description.
~Spencer
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If the long reach is the main objective, the camera might serve you better would be a D7200, not D750. There are pros and cons with getting either a Fx or Dx. So, it really comes down to your preference, subjects, and mode of operation. I’ve had both Dx and Fx in the past, and both deliver high quality pictures if you know how to use each to its strength.
Well, now I have the d750! The real question is … Is it worth investing in a d7200? Or shall I begin to lighten the load in my bag by working towards a mirrorless for landscape / night, street, people …?
Thanks Spencer. Another nice article!!
I need a suggestion here. I have been playing with my Nikon D5100 for now over a year and half. I mostly do Portrait and Landscape photography. It’s a hobby and not a Profession. I do it bcoz it gives me satisfaction and is my escape. Now to have more dynamic Range and more punch to my photos I am looking for venturing into a Full Frame as we still don’t have any Pro DX camera from Nikon…what would be your suggestion…will it be a advanced DX camera (so that I can reuse my Lens…have 35 mm, 11-16mm Tokina & 70-300 mm Nikkor) or go for an entry level Full Frame from Nikon. Pls advice.
Thank you, Himanshu!
I think I can help, since my first camera was the D5100, and I ultimately swapped it with the D7000 and then the D800e.
Honestly, I would suggest that you buy the D7100 or D7200 rather than a full-frame camera. Having used both systems extensively, the benefits at base ISO (which I’d imagine is the case for most of your landscapes) are not nearly as dramatic as you would think. The main difference with a full-frame camera is that highlights are easier to recover in post-processing.
My jump from a D5100 to a D7000 was actually far greater than my jump from the D7000 to the D800e. The additional controls, especially the U1 + U2 settings and the extra custom buttons/dials, were absolutely invaluable.
A D7100 at base ISO, along with a great lens, would beat an FX system with a cheaper lens — especially with landscapes, since it is expensive to get an FX lens with good corner sharpness.
If all that you did were portraits, it would be iffier. As it is, though, I think that you would be better served buying a D7200 and a new lens — or perhaps a better, carbon fiber tripod if you do not already have one (far more valuable than you might think).
I hope this helps, and feel free to ask if you have any more questions!
~Spencer
Can’t thank you enough Spencer on this.
I have been in dilemma over this for quite some time.
I had similar thoughts just needed a reassurance from a expert.
Now I can hone my skills on D5100 before I buy D7100/7200 as suggested.
Just a query for Landscape which are the lens you would suggest to go with D7x series.
I currently use Tokina 11-16mm Ultra wide along with 55-200 mm Tamron which i know are not the exacts for Landscape. Pls suggest.
The Tokina 11-16 is quite a good landscape lens, so you already have a great start. The Tamron is also good for compressing perspective on a distant scene (see our article here: https://photographylife.com/using-telephoto-lenses-for-landscape-photography ). What you are missing most is the moderately-wide range, which can be quite useful for landscapes.
My recommendation, if it is within your budget, is to get the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 zoom that I mentioned in the article. At this focal length, there really is no better zoom lens for DX cameras, and very few comparable primes, either. A somewhat less expensive option is the other Sigma lens I mentioned in the article, the 17-50mm f/2.8. It is not as sharp at the wider apertures, but it is also a great option for landscape photography because of its useful focal length. I attached links below:
18-35: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/967345-REG/sigma_18_35mm_f1_8_dc_hsm.html/BI/5562/KBID/6400
17-50: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/689623-REG/Sigma_583306_17_50mm_F2_8_EX_DC.html/BI/5562/KBID/6400
I hope this helps! Although I love prime lenses, there aren’t many cheap and good DX primes in the 24mm-ish range, which is what I think you are missing the most.
~Spencer
Thank you for an excellent article and time you put in to publish it! Great!
Thank you, Waldemar!
Hi Spencer, nice article! I would recommend a very similar kit to a beginner, maybe with some tweaks here and there, and also with a “take it slow” advice. I think UV filters should worth mentioning to beginners, it’s important to protect the lens, and they also add some extra dollars on the bills.
Some savings could be done on the software side when buying Canon. Their DDP software is free and does a very nice job a getting the best out of RAW files… But anyway I don’t want to start the debate about these two, anyway I’m shooting Fuji now and I’m not looking back. An X-T10 with the kit 18-55 could also be a very nice starting equipement, this kit lens is actually very good.
Jib,
Thank you for sharing your thoughts! Canon would be just as good for a beginner, as far as I can tell — I just have less experience with Canon cameras, so my recommendations would not be as helpful.
Good thought on the X-T10 — that looks like an extremely good camera, and I have heard that the Fuji 18-55 is quite a good lens.
In terms of UV filters, I think that the issue for some beginners is that they will try to buy the cheapest possible filter because they all look the same. And if you suggest a $50+ piece of glass to a beginner, you’ll have a hard time explaining why that’s better than a nearly-identical $5 piece of glass. That said, I completely agree that UV filters are a must-have — I’m just not sure how to suggest one to a complete beginner.
Thanks again for your helpful suggestions!
~Spencer
I started a year and a half ago with a D3100 + 18-55mm that I found on eBay foR US$270.
The only feature I’m really missing is the focusing motor inside the camera so I can use my 28-105mm AF and other good cheap jewels from the AF Nikkor lenses.
The camera grows on you quite quickly, I can change aperture and ISO as quick as using the dials on the D90/D800 I’ve got to play with.
The most important piece of equipment when starting are the lenses, that nikon 35mm 1.8 is my favorite lens so far for street photography, portraits, product photography, PR events, and a few landscapes.
I still own and use the D3100 and have begun to look at other cameras, but, after fiddling with good lights and a good lens I’ve stopped dry on the following question:
Should I invest money on more lenses for different types of work? or Should I stick with my current lenses and go for another DX camera?
Jose,
The D3100 is quite a good camera, and it is great first DSLR. I own one as well, so I know from experience!
If you choose to buy a new DX camera, you should not do so because of the image quality — images from the D3100 are comparable to those from Nikon’s newest DX cameras (even cameras with a 24-megapixel sensor), assuming that you don’t print at extreme sizes. However, if you are frustrated by adjusting your settings (which does not sound like the case), I would recommend jumping to a D7x00 camera before you get new lenses.
If you are happy with adjusting the D3100, I think you should get a macro lens — perhaps the newer Nikon 60mm f/2.8? This would expand your portrait abilities (a longer focal length can look more flattering for portraiture), and it would help with your product photography as well. Plus, it would open up the entirely new genre of macro photography, which is quite exciting!
Good luck!
~Spencer
What about changing my D3100 for an used D90?
How does that sensor compare to my current model in terms of dynamic range and noise?
That body can autofocus on the lenses I want, being a little blind is not great for manual focus.
Ive been looking at the 85mm 1.8 AF for portraits and the 35-70mm 2.8 AF as a general purpose lens as my next purchase.
Now, that 60mm you say happens to be 90mm in my DX sensor.
It’s perfect, thank you sir.
I think you would be disappointed with the D90 in comparison, since the D3100 is a generation ahead in image quality, especially in terms of noise. I would save for a D7000, perhaps used. You will find more improvements than just the image quality (which will be a small step up from the D3100, mostly in dynamic range) — screen resolution, viewfinder clarity, and more buttons/dials, for example.
The Nikon 60mm is a multipurpose lens, without a doubt. And it’s sharp, too!
~Spencer
I really appreciate these kinds of articles because I get these questions all the time. You did a great job with it IMO, including suggesting something I always overlook – a calibrated monitor.
What I love about your list is that you could take it and literally do my photography business. I mostly shoot pets and the camera and lenses you suggest would work for everything in a pinch (I still occasionally get out the 70-200 for very active dogs in an unrestricted, but safe area, but it is not absolutely needed, it just makes it easier). I use more lights often but with the inexpensive Yongnuo flashes and triggers plus light stands and modifiers, it would add less than $400 to the total. Add a second D7000 and you could do everything and have a backup camera for under 3k. Amazing, IMO.
I will refer beginners to your excellent list but with one modification – I suggest getting the LR/PS photographer subscription for $10 a month. Much as I dislike subscription software, this is too good a deal to pass up.
Sceptical1,
I am glad you like the article, and thank your for your suggestion for the Photoshop+Lightroom bundle! I agree that such a bundle is great for starting photographers. No one likes subscription software, but, assuming Adobe doesn’t raise the price any time soon (which may not be a good assumption to make), $10 per month is an amazing price for both pieces of software.
~Spencer
Didn’t knew about the AOC 12367FH 23” , great monitor……would surely get it…Thanks Spencer :)
Hey Siddhant! Glad to hear that you like the monitor suggestion. Thanks for the comment : )
~Spencer
I am sort of the beginner that Spencer has been talking about (well started with my first DSLR in early 2013) I started with a D7000 the 18-105 kit and the 35mm prime (too great an offer at £69 after cashback to resist); no tripod or anything else apart from a bag.
Having moved on from my Panasonic DMC FZ-18 the D7000 initially felt challenging, in fact I couldn’t seem to take an infocus shot for the first 3 weeks. As you might predict it was technique at fault not the camera.
I purchased it for a number of reasons 1) I wanted the lense options/quality improvment 2) I wanted the added functionality but I was pretty set on a Canon until I picked one up…
So my first advice to any newbie is hold it…I could not get comfortable with the Canon in my hand (I’m not large or small just average);l the nikon just felt better the equivalent D5x of the time felt small and a bit less substantial. In my opinion photography is a contact sport.
I have never felt hampered by the relative lack of resolution and in fact I would contend that getting the image right in the camera without the luxury of lots of pixels to crop off and throw away has been the biggest benefit I’ve found whilst learning.
So how has my journey progressed
6 months everything in auto, a bit nervous of everything else
3-4 months of messing about with scene modes
6 or 7 months of trying A but usually went for P with occasional shifts (up to this point mostly in JPEG)
The after reading a lot (some Ken Rockwell, sorry) and PL started changing focus modes, went for A almost exclusivley and now M features a lot -I have tripod, ND grads, Polariser and a 70-300, SB-700 and everything is NEF now!
I have taken 35,000 shots with the D7000 now and have tried almost all it’s functions even the timelapse thing…I cant imagine wanting anything else anytime soon nor do I believe that I would have had such a blast over the last 2 and a bit years with more pixels and less things to learn.
I don’t want to get into who’s right or wrong as we are all both at some point in time but all I can do is tell of my experience and I’ve loved it!
Keep up the good work all at PL
Gary,
Thank you for sharing your perspective, and I am glad you like the article! I also moved to a DSLR from a panasonic compact, although I went to the D5100 for a few months before switching to the D7000.
I find the learning process of photography to be wonderfully fun. And it never really stops! The D7000 is a fantastic tool for learning, since it encourages you to avoid scene modes (which I guess are nice for beginners, but they discourage people from learning the actual reasons why each mode works how it does).
~Spencer
Hi Spencer, nice point of view, I really mean it.
But I think that we must redefine the word beginner.
I am older than you, my first SLR (not DSLR) was an Asahi Pentax Spotmatic which I bought in 1971.
Then as I worked with slides I had to really nail the exposure (had you ever tried Kodachrome 25 ASA on a F3), and doing so with a Nikon F3 centerweighted or Asahi average was not an easy task, zooms at 1981 (10 years after my first SLR) zooms were considered practical, but not a serious lens, in such a way it was the down of telephoto zooms, and Nikon provided several very good ones. We had to use our brain as a computer, perhaps because I burned it I am writing this (kidding)
In addition 50mm was considered a kit lens to be disposed as fast as possible.
After this verbose intro, I agree with you in some points, but I disagree in others.
a) 35mm excellent lens, it is true from an optical point of view, but for DX it is equivalent to a 50mm, too long for landscapes, too short for portraits, and it doesn´t make a good macro. Nice to keep in your bag just in case, but from my personal point of view near useless. it would be better to have a cheap 28mm for DX, it gives a little more versatility, but nikon never made one, unless you consider the 28mm f2.8D, not as good optically as the 35mm 1.8 DX
b) Nobody makes a DX 14mm wideangle, if you want to venture with this, a zoom is the only alternative, I am not questioning you in this point, I think you forget to take into account.
c) with modern cameras and zooms I found myself walking less than before until I realized that the framing was not what I liked, zoom is a double edge sword, in good hands replace a lot of lens, in the wrong hands is a cropping tools, and nothing else rendering dull perspective. After replacing several prime with zooms I had to learn to walk again, not an easy task, and I am not kidding with this.
d) Someone in the comments suggest a more MP than the D7000 in order to have more crop power, cropping shall be done in the “as needed” base, and not to get a picture. A good picture was made when you press the shutter button, if you need to crop you either have a wrong lens, or a special circunstance, otherwise you don´t know how to frame.
e) Software for a beginner, the simpler, the better, first thing is to learn how this tools works (camera, lens, etc), once you get good pictures then in such a way you master your gear, then it is time to improve the results using better software.
f) I am not a dinosaur, I am not saying that auto everything is bad, I think that modern cameras let us get what we thought impossible, or reserved for a very few in film era.
But if you I really interested in photography it is more than using this new computers with a CMOS sensors that we call today DSLR.
g) D7000 is a good starting point as you said, perhaps it is not a state of the art sensor, but as a camera is much better as you said than an entry level, and for a beginner if he is carefull selecting his lenses it would take quite a lot to master and outgrow.
h) If you master an old semipro camera, like a D700, D300 and this kind of gear, then you can buy a lesser one, like a D5xxx, or a D3xxx and get nice results, and this is because you learned how to pinpoint shortcomings and develop workouts, but if you don´t know what a pro gear was able to do, then the learning curve takes longer, because you aren´t unable to tell if it you, or your gear the limiting factor.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts, Nestor! You bring up several good points.
a) I wish that Nikon would introduce a compact 24mm for DX, since I know that so many people would buy such a lens in a heartbeat! For me, 24mm is the ideal focal length for a beginning prime (on DX, of course) — in fact, my 24mm f/1.4 was by far my most-used DX lens.
b) Again, I would love to see Nikon produce a wider angle prime for DX bodies. So many people would buy a lens like this! I found it hard to recommend a wide-angle zoom on this list, since they tend to be fairly difficult to use as a beginner, not to mention somewhat expensive. But it really does depend upon your needs, and I think that your suggestion of a 14mm prime would fit the needs of many beginners (and experts)!
c) Haha, nice — I actually use 100% primes for my own photography (although I will rent zooms if I need one), so I agree completely!
d) Yep, it is always best to frame your image as closely as possible to the final result. Although I will admit to cropping most of my images (mostly tilt correction) to some degree : )
e) True, my recommendation of Lightroom may be overwhelming to a beginner. It has a steep learning curve — I have owned it for a couple years, and I only recently began to feel like I understood its intricacies. Luckily, (almost) everything within the software can be undone!
f) The only danger with auto-everything is that it encourages people to avoid learning the true reasons that the camera is making its decisions. As such, I think that people put less thought into their images and are more likely to blame the camera when something goes wrong.
g) The D7000 does not have quite as high-tech of a sensor as the newer entry level models, but I think that it makes up for that by being a better learning tool. Plus, I have printed one of my images (the photo at the bottom of the article, actually) four feet wide from the D7000, and it looks wonderful, even when you are two inches from the print. The key is in knowing how to optimize your images, and knowing how your camera works!
h) Pros or advanced amateurs are good at knowing what settings they want to change, and there will always be ways to do so on any DSLR. The issue is that entry-level cameras hide some useful settings, so beginners have a hard time realizing what is most important. I know I did!
Thank you for your comments. I am sure that they will be helpful to beginners reading this article!
~Spencer
Hi Spencer,
a) as you said 24mm is more versatile than 28mm with a DX camera, I menntioned a 28 because I thought it could be an inexpensive lens if Nikon had one.
b) cropping, I don´t mean to have a perfectly framed picture every time, but suggesting buying a D7100 instead a D7000 based in cropping as I read in readers comments is throwing away 8MP, from my personal point of view I stand on what I said, either you are using a wrong lens, or you don´t know basic composition rules. But mild cropping for my is ok, just remember that early nikons had a 95% of viewfinder coverage. Shift equivalent correction (you call it tilt, but you mean perspective correction) is not framing, it is a good alternative to a TS lens, I love them, but not being an architect I found them very expensive, and traveling with them requires a tripod and a very slow paced visit to an specific place. And in addition there is not an easy task to use, shift is easy, exposure not so straightforward, and tilt gives incredible results, but the few times I got my hands on one of these marvels, shame to say, the lens won in tilt alone and tilt and shift, but we were friends with shift alone. I found Perspective correction with software a valid and cheaper alternative to an expensive lens. It is an alternative, not a replacement.
f) It is more than that, it is not knowing how diaphragm gives you control over depth of field, or how to set shutter speed for fireworks, and not to tell the way we must work with macro. To add insult to injury many cameras have SCENES, perhaps they were useful, but I prefer using mostly A settings, and few times in a hurry P for synchro solar.
g) A camera like D7000 and the others in the same category are the best for a SERIOUS beginner, not so expensive as a pro one, not so basic as an entry level. In good hands I repeat, it takes quite a lot to use at full potential.
h) It is not a problem to have a lesser camera (not talking about IQ), the problem is not knowing it limitations, and in this way limiting yourself.
Of course once you try a full frame you want to throw your DX gear away, but do not fall for temptation, it stills makes a wonderful and lighter gear for traveling, vacations, and in the long run your back will be very grateful.
And if you try MF you want to throw away your FF until you realize that getting sherpas for carrying your gear is not so easy.
I am not a pro, but my FF standing (standing because if I hike with this one day, next one I will need the whole day to rest) bag weights 13 pounds, my DX traveling bag weights 5 pounds, and my ultralight CX bag 3.5 pound with 4 batts, 5 mem cards, pol filter, nd filter, and charger.
Spencer, as you realized I adapt weight and not gear to suit my requirements.
Nice to have this talk with you, it seems reading your comments that you are in the right way, and not in the techno-race.
Jared,
Wow, those are wonderful. My favorite is probably the photo of Mt. Wai’ale’ale, but they are all terrific. I would love to go on a helicopter ride for landscape photography at some point, although if you watch the activity on Photography Life for the next month, you’ll see me writing about something similar…
The D7000 is great when you use it with high-quality lenses. I have thoroughly enjoyed using mine — the dynamic range really is wonderful.
Thank you for sharing!
~Spencer
Swati,
Sorry about that — sometimes it takes our system a few hours to approve a comment with a link included. I will delete your duplicate comment below.
To show me images, send them to spencer cox photo at gmail, without any spaces. (I don’t want to post the actual address for spam purposes).
I looked at some of the images on your website, and they are wonderful! Thank you for sharing.
~Spencer
Great article, however, it did sound somewhat of a sales advert for Nikon, Manfrotto, etc. Rather than focusing on the brand of camera, lenses, tripod, et al., I think your article would have been more helpful if you concentrated on what to look for (ie features) in a camera, tripod, as well as lenses that would be good for most shooting situations that won’t break the bank for a beginner photographer.
I agree, in theory, but it could be daunting for a beginner to translate the feature list into actual equipment.
I understand what you are conveying, however, if I were a beginner I’d want choices. If I have a checklist on what to look for, I could take this list to my local camera store (which I would highly recommend for the first time buyer) and with the help of the salesperson, purchase a camera that fits best for me–taking into consideration what is on my list to look for (in a camera).
…with the help of a GOOD salesperson. Quite a few aren’t very helpful at all.
I absolutely agree, I’m used to going to a small independent camera shop where good customer service is paramount.
Spencer – thanks for this article…not because you have all the “right” answers but because your thoughts on the matter have provoked a lot of good discussion, differences of opinion and some perspectives that we readers may not have considered.
As other readers have noted, I think “fit” is very important and being able to hold the camera comfortably is critical not only to the ability to take great pictures but indeed will have a big impact on the pleasure one gets from doing so in the first place. This is one of the reasons I selected Nikon over Canon when getting back into DSLR photography a number of years ago. The Canons I was looking at, Rebel? EOS? were just too small for me to hold properly. The D50 on the other hand was much more comfortable.
It occurs to me that most DSLRs are capable of providing an easy shooting experience for novices between the Auto, Program and Scene modes available. Your point about having a camera that offers capability beyond these basic modes is well taken although I have to admit, just mastering manual modes, auto ISO and the various focusing options is likely enough to keep most of us busy for years without getting into the next four levels of menu options!
It is also interesting to consider the things that detract from the overall experience of taking photographs as well. Unfortunately these irritants may not be known until after one has used the camera for a period of time. One in particular that bothered me on the D3200 was that I continuously moved the focus point in spite of it supposedly being “locked” to the center and the active focus point indicator in the viewfinder was sufficiently small that I often missed seeing the fact that I had inadvertently changed which focus point was active. Talk about frustrating. :-)
Cheers,
Gord
How about Manfrotto MK294A3A0RC2 Aluminum Tripod with QR ball-head – $170 compared to Manfrotto
MT190X3 tripod and Oben BE-126 ball-head — $260
I started my DSLR photography off with a D3100, it’s a great little camera, specially with the 50mm 1.8G lens attached, I’m getting some great gig shots when working in the pit at events, but, now that more work is coming in for those gigs that don’t exactly have great lighting, it’s time for me to consider upgrading to a full frame camera, so I think it’s now time to make that investment in to something more suited for the job.
What would you recommendations be, would you recommend the D7000 for those low-light gigs where I need a fast shutter speed as well?
Hello,
First of all, I would like to thank this article for giving a very good teaching for beginner (especially like me). I’m still learning from this site and I want to take better pictures (and maybe one day I can be a good photographer).
I have a question, How to know that my camera has iTTL or DTTL flash system? My camera is Nikon D3100.
And that external flashlight that you recommended, is that compatible for D3100?
I love taking pictures of landscape and people.
I would love to hear you back.
Thank you.
Does it mentioned somewhere on the menu?
Sorry, this might be a dumb question. I’m like a very beginner of beginners.
Thanks.
I have been playing with a digicam for some time now. With time i have acquired a crude working knowledge of iso,aperture and shutter speed. I’m beginning to take photography seriously . I am now thinking of upgrading to a dslr and take up photography as a serious hobby. To talk about the kind of photographs i usually take…i am into portraits and street photography mainly. But i backpack often too…thats when nature n landscapes come into the picture. I have often found low light street photography to be challenging … but if done correctly , extremely fulfilling .
So, a student with limited funds, maybe some wriggle room. After reading a lot[i love this site btw]…here is the list of stuff i have thought of to begin with…
camera- Nikon d5300, since i like Nikon ‘s interface bettr than cannon.
lenses -1) The in kit 18 -140mm zoom lens .
2) Afs 50mm/1.8 g prime lens.
Also some of the accessories like an extra battery n sd cards n cleaning kit.
This is probably all i can afford right now. I hope to grow as a photographer but would like to enjoy my journey there. I have recently started working with a local wildlife NGO, would be going on a trip in the recent future. So thats also a point…
What are your thoughts on this? Have i made the right choices ? Any suggestions ?
I have been playing with a digicam for some time now. With time i have acquired a crude working knowledge of iso,aperture and shutter speed. I’m beginning to take photography seriously . I am now thinking of upgrading to a dslr and take up photography as a serious hobby. To talk about the kind of photographs i usually take…i am into portraits and street photography mainly. But i backpack often too…thats when nature n landscapes come into the picture. I have often found low light street photography to be challenging … but if done correctly , extremely fulfilling .
So, a student with limited funds, maybe some wriggle room. After reading a lot[i love this site btw]…here is the list of stuff i have thought of to begin with…
camera- Nikon d5300, since i like Nikon ‘s interface bettr than cannon.
lenses -1) The in kit 18 -140mm zoom lens .
2) Afs 50mm/1.8 g prime lens.
Also some of the accessories like an extra battery n sd cards n cleaning kit.
[Do i need a separate flash? Is there anything else i absolutely need too? ( i am saving for a tripod though ..) ]
This is probably all i can afford right now. I hope to grow as a photographer but would like to enjoy my journey there. I have recently started working with a local wildlife NGO, would be going on a trip in the recent future. So thats also a point…
What are your thoughts on this? Have i made the right choices ? Any suggestions ?
Hi Satyaki,
For the price, the kit you have in mind is very good. I don’t think you need a flash quite yet, but you may want one if you start to take more and more portrait photos. Personally, I never use one. (Also, try not to use the on-camera flash unless it is VERY dark — the D5300 does quite well in low light without a flash.)
The best part about your kit is that it should help you learn what your favorite types of photography are. You may find out that you don’t need a tripod for your style of photography, if you go down the street photography route. Or, if you decide that landscape photography is your favorite, you probably will want a tripod as soon as possible!
You seem to have a good idea of what you want to do with your camera.The only other thing I would suggest is a photo editing software. Adobe Lightroom is my recommendation. It takes some time to learn, but it is a very good photo processor — you will want it eventually if you continue pursuing photography as a serious hobby.
Remember to always shoot in RAW (never JPEG) if you plan to print your photos!
Spencer
Thanks ! Just one question though … i have worked with both d5300 n d7100 a few times. Though I personally liked the 5300,because it was light weight n kind of more compact, i did find the 7100 to be quite thrilling to work with too. Considering i dont have much of an experience with either, to fully make up my mind..which one do you suggest would be a better option . I know there is that price difference …but i really want my first professional camera to be a solid launching pad, something i can work with for an extensive period of time.
Satyaki,
It sounds like you want this camera to be the start of a serious hobby, or you are at least leaning in that direction. In that case, I would suggest the D7100 rather than the D5300.
It is important to remember that the D5300 and the D7100 have the same sensor. Their photos would be identical. So, if cost is an issue, you aren’t losing out on any image quality by picking the D5300.
The benefit of the D7100 comes from its additional options. It has more dials and dedicated buttons (allowing you to change settings much quicker), a better autofocus system, custom (U1 and U2) modes, etc. It also is a tougher camera that can withstand the elements much better. If you are in the process of becoming a dedicated photographer, chances are good that you will outgrow the D5300 eventually. A D7100 is much harder to outgrow.
I hope this helps!
Spencer
Hi Spencer,
Thanks for a very useful article! I’m a total beginner when it comes to photography, and I’m still reading a lot about the fundamentals. I don’t even own a camera yet.
Do you have any further tips regarding my first DSLR? I’m in aviation, so I travel a lot for work. I would like to capture the things I get to see along the way, and I’m tired of using just my smartphone for some of the beautiful things I encounter. These things range from wildlife to air-to-air photography. Every now and then I even get to see the Northern Lights at 40,000ft and I would love to be able to get that on camera (obviously a smartphone is hopelessly insufficient for those kinds of things).
I’m planning on enrolling in photography classes to learn the basics, but I would prefer to enter these classes with my own camera.
Any tips for a starting amateur/hobbyist would help!
Thanks in advance and keep up the good work,
Stefan
Hi Stefan,
For your first DSLR, you may want to consider one of Nikon’s entry level models, like the D3300 or D5300. It all depends upon the type of camera that you want to grow with. These entry-level cameras are the easiest to understand as a beginner, but the D7000 that I discussed in the article has more advanced options (custom modes, easier access to settings, etc) if you want the most room to grow. Image quality is about the same among these three cameras, but the D3300 and D5300 are slightly better. Nothing you would notice as a beginner, though.
The more important element for you is to get the proper lens. If you want to get into wildlife photography, a telephoto is probably best for you. As a beginner, I would consider the Nikon 55-200mm or the 55-300mm zoom lens. You may eventually progress to something more expensive, but this is a good kit for learning.
Unfortunately, even the best cameras will not be able to photograph the northern lights very well from the air — you need a sturdy tripod for nighttime photography, or your photos will be blurry and grainy.
In terms of a wider (day-to-day) lens, I would recommend the Nikon 35mm f/1.8 DX or the Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 VR (any version). The first one is better for low-light photography, especially with moving subjects. The 18-55 has the ability to zoom, though, which is very useful as well. You can’t go wrong with either.
I hope this helps, and let me know if you have any more questions!
Spencer
Thanks for the help Spencer!
I’ll be sure to check out your suggestions! I’m very excited about starting my new hobby.
If any more questions come up, I’ll let you know.
Regards, Stefan
Thanks for this shopping list, Spencer, it’s very useful. I recently made the “mistake” of buying a better point-and-shoot (upgrading from a lower-end model) , and it’s actually so good that it totally fueled my interest in photography and made me want to take it to the next level. I’ll keep it for now, mainly because I haven’t decided which camera to pick next (the rise of the mirrorless market sure complicates things), but I’m at a stage where I’m gearing up for a future DSLR (or mirrorless? :) ). I’ve just gotten over the shock of familiarizing myself with the eye-watering prices of the tripod market… Finally made up my mind and got ready to pay through the nose, but yeah, there are other stuff that will be needed, especially on the software front. So comprehensive overviews and recommendations based on actual experience are very helpful.
Hi There,
I am using my Sony Alpha SLT A58 with 18-55mm lens and 55-200mm lens
and i love to click every type of pics mostly i love landscape and wild life can you suggest me accessories for more
effective pics, kind of lens i have to buy i am just a beginner also i love fashion photography..
kindly suggest
my page : facebook.com/mickeygfotograph
Hi Ashish, take a look at the Facebook message I sent!
Hi Spencer,
Thank you so much for this article and has been very helpful for me. I have two questions.
The first is regarding a 67mm Circular Polarizing Filter. HOYA offers a lens kit, which is almost the cost of just one filter by itself. Is this truly a deal, or am I getting a lower quality set of lenses than buying them individually?
I am looking at this set: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1029138-REG/hoya_hk_dg72_ii_72mm_digital_filter_kit.html
vs just buying the http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/900309-REG/Hoya_anxt67crpl_67mm_NXT_Circular_Pol.html.
Second, I will be purchasing a tripod and I see you mentioned getting a tripod and a ballhead, but the tripod says it comes with one. Can you explain please, perhaps a tripod can come without a ballhead or perhaps you are suggesting it is better to replace it?
Thank you for your assistance,
Tiffany
Hope the following helps – The tripod and head can be bought separately.
I’ve recently bought a Manfrotto 190PROX (same model that’s shown in the article), and there were options with or without head. I wanted a ball head, so I bought the tripod and the head separately – the other versions all included a 3D head, which takes up too much space for my liking. So if the tripod you are looking at comes with a head, check out what that head is like. If it’s not what you are looking for, it’s better to buy them separately. Btw the Manfrotto tripod is awesome. I bought the cheapest Manfrotto ball head with it, both work great, very sturdy, very convenient to use. Very well made, quality stuff.
Thank you so much for the clarification on the tripod. I am very excited to order it. So what was your take on the HOYA lens? Is the kit quality lower or is it the same as buying each individual lens separately?
Hi Tiffany,
In general, with filters, you get what you pay for. I would be wary of purchasing any filters that cost less than $50, including the kit that you linked to. Not all Hoya filters are made the same. In fact, you can search on B&H for Hoya filters and see the wide range of prices. I would stick to the filters in the upper ~1/3 of the price range, or at least make sure that the one you are ordering has solid reviews.
Also, give this a read: https://photographylife.com/lens-filters
Sorry that I couldn’t reply sooner — I have not had wifi for a few days.
Spencer
Hi Spencer,
Thank you so much for this info on filters. I will buy them separately vs the kit.
Warm wishes to you,
Tiffany
Hi Spencer, Nice and informative article. I probably am late to this article. Here are some very basic questions and I would really appreciate if I can have an answer in simple layman terms. Before I pose my questions I must commend you and the entire PL team for some seriously amazing work. The PL team is wonderful and I browse through this site everyday – I really enjoy your articles and wish you and the PL team the very best. Coming to my questions – I own a D3200, I read somewhere that a 24.2 MP sensor is an overkill for a beginner and for experienced people it will be a handy tool, can you elaborate on this. I recently purchased a 35mm f/1.8G prime lens after a lot of deliberations. But I still do not get sharp images – maybe my technique is all wrong, but is this combo good for landscapes and shooting buildings, parks etc or is it good only for portraits – I notice that the portraits which I shoot are much sharper with good bokeh compared to my landscape and similar still shots – any particular reason? I find that there are excellent samples out in the net for 35mm prime – but my camera + 35mm combo is not delivering such results. Will my 35mm lens help in shooting indoors? Is there any article where I can get a fairly good idea of optimal settings for my D3200? I found a few sites which give different views on this.
There goes…simple elementary questions for seasoned pros in the PL team….. would like to have your views on this….have I erred in choosing this combo or is it good for beginners…. apologies for this long question…. keep the good work coming…..cheers….
Srikanth
Hi Srikanth,
The D3200 is great for beginners. When some people say that it is “overkill,” they are saying that the sensor is very good even though it is a beginning camera. (The same goes for all modern DSLR cameras — they are better than many people would ever need). The 35mm f/1.8 lens is great, too — once you spend more time getting used to your camera, you will find that your equipment is actually very good.
Although it is difficult to tell for sure from your details, it seems that you are doing one of two possible things wrong. For one, you may be shooting at shutter speeds that cause motion blur in your photographs. If you are handholding the camera, make sure that your shutter speed is quicker than (1 / 1.5x focal length) — for you, that would be 1/50 or 1/60 a second and faster.
The other possibility is that you are shooting every photograph at an aperture of f/1.8. This means that only a small portion of your photographs would be in focus, making everything else look blurry.
Other causes may be behind your unsharp photos (improper autofocus settings, or perhaps — although unlikely — a faulty lens), but I suspect that your shutter speed or aperture is to blame.
I recommend reading these two articles (apologies if this is information that you already know):
1) https://photographylife.com/iso-shutter-speed-and-aperture-for-beginners
2) https://photographylife.com/how-to-take-sharp-photos
Let me know if you have any more questions!
Thanks for your quick response. I also notice that the shots from my tripod mounted setup come sharper than handheld. While handholding I usually shoot at 1/100 or more and rarely shoot at speeds lower than 1/100. I may be going wrong in focusing. I presume that my lens is not faulty since images are sharp and detailed when set on a tripod (Incidentally, I bought my lens in a sale from Amazon). I will surely review those two links and will revert with more queries. I feel glad that you and the team at PL take time out for responding such trivial queries as this from novice photographers like me. This is one of the reasons I keep visiting this site over and over. This is much appreciated. I will be back with more queries soon…. thanks. Cheers.
Srikanth
If your photos on a tripod are sharp, your lens definitely is fine. I would suggest practicing with your camera’s autofocus system. There are a lot of options, but you’ll pick up fairly quickly. Make sure, of course, that the tab on your lens (as well as the camera itself) are set to autofocus rather than manual focus. Here is a good article discussing autofocus modes: https://photographylife.com/dslr-autofocus-modes-explained
It also is possible that your handholding technique needs some work. Try bracing the bottom of the lens with your left hand, breathing slowly, and pressing the shutter lightly. This may not be the cause of your blurry photos, but it is a good habit regardless.
Glad that you find PL so useful! We’re always happy to help.
This was a very very fast reply. This is precisely what I love in this site. I will surely try out the method outlined. Should I have more queries, I will be back.
Hi Spencer!
I am a beginner Photographer and photography is my passion i just wanted to know that more cameras have released after this D7000 so which DSLR should i buy now?
My total Budget is around 500-700$ so which dslr should i buy?
Including lenses, if your budget is $500 to $700, I would recommend a used Nikon D3200 with the 18-55mm lens and the 35mm f/1.8 DX lens. That’s a great combo at a good price, especially used. Even with both lenses, you’ll probably have money left over for a bag or a very cheap tripod.
“35mm f/1.8 DX”
+1 to that, I bought that lens for my D7200 based on the recommendations on this site and I love it. Very sharp, very good viewing area (i.e. what you can fit into your frame) and is suitable for a LOT of purposes. Small and light as well. I know pros would probably recommend a longer focal length for portraits but I’m actually quite happy with the portraits I’ve taken with this lens so far. Also good for landscapes – not too wide to introduce issues with the polarizing filter, but wide enough for comfortable framing. I also had a chance to shoot with a borrowed D3200 + 18-55mm kit lens – very disappointing results I have to say. Well worth buying the lens separately imo.
“a very cheap tripod”
-1 to that though :) Cheap tripods are a complete waste of money if you ask me, they are not reliable and certainly not sturdy enough to support a DSLR. I would recommend either buying a proper one (get ready to pay through the nose) or not buy one at all. It’s not something you will _always_ use anyway, although I’d say it’s one of the most imporatnt accessories. I’ve invested in a carbon fibre Manfrotto, it cost a fortune but it was worth it. A friend of mine bought one 15 years ago and still uses it :)
They are a complete waste of money. I should have elaborated on that :)
I bought my first tripod for about $40. It was an off-brand plastic tripod that broke halfway through the first trip that I took with it. I didn’t learn my lesson, and I bought a $200 tripod — still pretty cheap — which lasted for a few trips before breaking. Then I moved to a useless wooden tripod, which I sold and bought the RRS setup that I use today. It’s the path that everyone warns against, but it happened anyway!
Even with all that said, I still think that it’s worthwhile for a beginner with $50 and no tripod to buy a cheap plastic one. Sure, it will break soon. Sure, it will shake the camera if it gets windy. But, in my opinion, a bad tripod is orders of magnitude better than no tripod at all. A cheap one will help you decide whether you are willing to carry any tripod in the first place, and — when it breaks — it will prove to you that you get what you pay for :)
Why is this the best equipment?
Read the article to find out :)
I recently purchased a Lighting Light Video Photo Softbox Umbrella Photography Kit Backdrop Muslin from Jet.com at an amazing price and am excited to share it with other fellow photographers. (see link below)
https://jet.com/product/Lighting-Light-Video-Photo-Softbox-Umbrella-Photography-Kit-Backdrop-Muslin/c5e1cfdb0681481ea79a769ffa44d410
I have since started shooting on my spare time at home and quite frankly am making a substantial amount of money on the side apart from my regular 9 – 5. :)
I hope this helps others when making their next purchasing decision.
Have a great day!
Sincerely,
Anthony E
Hello Spencer,
Great article
I’ve been using a point and shoot all my life and have been thinking about getting a DSLR. I would like to first learn to use the DSLR and try out the and then progress towards getting better models. Also I don’t think I can afford $2000 in the beginning. What would be your suggestion for an initial camera and lens including a prime lens.
Hi Lakshmi,
Well I’m obviously not Spencer :) but I hope I can help, having recently made this step-up myself. What helped me a LOT is that I had a compact cam with manual controls (Canon S120), it allowed me to learn a lot about A/S/M modes without the lens hassle. When I decided to buy a DSLR, I opted for the D7200, which is a bit more expensive than the D5x00 line, but I didn’t regret it. I understand the D5xxx/D7xxx series all have the same type of sensor, so you can’t go wrong with buying either. The D5xxx has a flip out screen if you find that useful. The D7200, on the other hand, has a function screen on top, which my not look like a big advantage if you haven’t used it before, but once you use it, you’ll never look back. Bottom line is, these are all great cameras (if you’re considering Nikon), don’t worry too much about additional features, go for the one that fits your budget best.
If I was to do it for the 2nd time, I would actually save a bit on the body – I’d rather compromise on that than the lens. The Nikkor AF-S 35mm 1.8G lens mentioned in this article is fantastic and very affordable. This is the only lens I own and use (I bought body and lens separately), it’s very sharp and has served me well for a few months now. If there’s just one advice you’ll take from this article, be it this lens, you won’t regret it :)
Still looking for the best zoom lens; unfortunately the sharpness of the prime has ruined me for other lenses, I’m just not ready to make a compromise on optical quality yet ^^ (Zoom lenses are bound to be a bit less sharp). One thing is sure, if I ever find a good one, I’ll still keep my 35mm 1.8G.
Hi judit,
Thank you so much for your input!
I have been practicing and learning the basics of DSLR using different cameras belonging to my friends or family. I totally understand and agree with you regarding the prime lens. And I am very confused about the zoom lens especially which is why I was looking for some help.
Also to start out I was thinking about getting a used camera but am a bit skeptical about the quality.
Thanks again
Apologies for my slow reply. Judit gives very good suggestions. The Nikon 35mm f/1.8 DX lens (or, if you only plan to do portraits, the Nikon 50mm f/1.8G) is the best combination of low price and high quality that you can get for an entry-level camera. As for the camera itself, the Nikon D5100 is selling for incredibly good prices on the used market. I owned this camera in the past (and it has the same sensor as the D7000 covered in this article), and it is a great first DSLR. As for the rest of the items in this article, only purchase what you can afford. A tripod is nice, but may not be necessary at first. The same is true for a new camera bag or a flash.
Yes I was thinking the same about the tripod and the flash.
I won’t be doing just portraits so the 35mm lens is what I’ve decided to get :)
Thank you so much for the help !
I’m sure you’ll love it :) Another thing about the body, I think it’s worth looking around on photo sites, for example, 500px, where you can check the photo details to see what camera was used to take the pic (although the photographer’s skill and post editing all play a role here, of course). I follow a few people who shoot excellent images with the D5500.
Here’s one of my favourites, he’s using a D5500: https://500px.com/stephenvns
And my own gallery for comparison, shot with the D7200: https://500px.com/judits
And then there’s the Canon crowd, of course… :) Bottom line is, if you’re undecided about the body, it’s worth following people who use the models you are considering.
Oh!!!! yes….. I’ll definitely do that. I hadn’t thought about that. Thank you so much :D
Also once I decide and get the body and lens, I’ll let you all know my own experience.
yes i’ll check out and follow a few people before deciding.
thanks again :)
Very nearly went out and bought a new Camera bag from the local camera shop. Having read this article already, my ears were ringing out with *RePurpose a bag! RePurpose a bag!*
So instead I went to Primark (like the English equivalent of JC Penneys) and found a backpack with several compartments for £12. I’m also going to get my wife to sew a lens compartment in from an older bag I had. A saving of around £45!
Cheers for the advice.
Happy to help! I’ve used repurposed bags on trips even when I have an actual camera bag that I could bring along instead. Sometimes, you can customize backpacks like that much beyond what a typical camera bag allows.
Hi Spencer,
Very thoughtful and useful article of yours that give me a systematic view of a standard camera system. As impressive as always.
But honestly, I really think I would have been scared to death and abandoned immediately the idea of getting a proper DSLR camera, if you had shown me this article last year, when I decided that mobile phone photography is no longer enough and I need something better to capture beautiful scenes of my country and most importantly moments of my little girl. But 2000 is just too much. At that time I have absolutely no clue how the camera gear market works, but I imagined anything greater than 1000$ should be something “pro”. Even 700$ is a little too much. I was targeting the sony A6000 which was around 700$ with kit lens. I think I went the usual way that most beginners do, meaning trying to find the cheapest camera (that meets one’s demand e.g. sie and weight, pixel, LCD, etc) that also gets good reviews in the internet, and has as many as possible features. I ended up buying an used Pentax Kx, a very good entry level DSLR that came with a kit lens for just 150$. Until now after half a year of learning and practicing I’ve already upgraded my camera to one of the better one in the Pentax line, and purchased some more lenses. I’m still considering myself a beginner, going to your website often to read, but the fact is the total money I’ve paid for this hobby is still not much more than 1000$ :D
Sincerely,
Bui
What a nice article. Genuinely useful.
What a change from the usual misinformation, click-bait and other useless (if not devious and manipulative) contributions from people, that either don’t know as much as they think they do, or have some agenda other than providing genuine help.
It is not a lot of use to me, as I have been making photos for 50 years, but good stuff needs to be recognised and praised.
Thank you, Tom. I’m glad that you found the article to be well-written.
I hate those click-bait gear articles as much as you — many of which are sponsored, and biased accordingly. I couldn’t care less which equipment a photographer decides to buy, but I do want people to be informed before making such large purchases (especially from the perspective of a beginner).
I appreciate the kind comment.
Hi, thanks so much for such information it is greatly useful. i have not start yet any form of professional photography but am considering
starting one here at my home town and i have been searching for ideas where ever i can find any.
on this equipment listing all i want to know is that if i have the money and i want to buy them how can i be able to do so because i live in Sierra Leone
that’s west of Africa. really need your help. you can contact me via email.
Glad you found it useful! I don’t know what the local options are for buying from Sierra Leone. However, some photography websites ship internationally, like B&H: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/find/HelpCenter/International.jsp’ defer onload=’
I’m sure there are also shipping options through Amazon as well. I hope this helps.
Interesting articles (I’m reading from the beginning).
I already have a camera (Canon) and a couple of zoom lenses.
I have a question about software: you suggest Lightroom. I have installed Darktable on my linux computer.
I have read that it is the open source (so it’s free) clone of lightroom.
Is this true? Is darktable equivalent to lightroom or inferior regarding features and overall quality?
Thank you
Luigi
Spencer Cox,
A very informative article. It is very useful for us to know about the equipment used for photography. You have also specified the prices of the equipment, so now we can arrange the money for that.
Thank you so much