Overview
Was it worth the wait? There has been a lot of buzz about the D800 before and after the camera was announced. One of the main reasons is the popularity of the existing Nikon D700 camera and the sheer number of people, especially part-time and full-time pros, who were dying to upgrade their aging cameras. In addition, the production delay further fueled the heat and spiked up the interest from the photography community that was getting rather impatient, wondering what Nikon would bring to the table for the next several years in the full-frame arena.
As you will see further down in this review, I consider the Nikon D800 to be a breakthrough camera, something we have not seen since Nikon introduced its first full-frame D3. While we have seen some amazing products from Nikon, they were all evolutionary, with minor upgrades, tweaks and changes here and there. The D800, on the other hand, is a revolutionary product that once again raises the bar on image quality, dynamic range, autofocus and even noise performance – all without the high price tag of a pro camera attached to it. Sure it has its share of problems with its rather slow speed (FPS) and average battery life, but these problems are rather insignificant, given what we are getting as a total package. Think of the D800 as a beefed up D3X, just in a smaller body, at 40% of the cost. How is that not revolutionary? And the D800 just happens to set a new world record in full-frame resolution.
But wait, what about all those photographers that anticipated a camera with the same sensor as on the Nikon D4, the ones that do not particularly care for high resolution? Did Nikon leave them all out with the D800, forcing them to jump to the expensive D4? Before I answer this question, let me first give a brief history of the D800, along with my analysis on why Nikon decided to take a different route with its full-frame line this time.
1) A Brief History and Analysis
I remember the day when I first read the rumor about the D800 and its 36 MP sensor. I quickly dismissed it, because it sounded completely unrealistic to me. With Nikon putting so much focus on image quality in its full-frame line with the D700, D3 and later D3s, and keeping the megapixel count low at just 12 MP (while the competition had been only increasing the number of megapixels in their new cameras), I only pictured the D700 replacement to be a very modest update in terms of resolution. Maybe something similar to the D7000, with a 16-18 MP sensor. Plus, a 36 MP full-frame sensor just did not fit in with the existing super expensive D3X that was specifically targeted for high-resolution applications.
As you may already know, the Nikon D700 was announced about a year after the D3 came out in 2007. Nikon did not have the time and resources to create a separate product line like Canon did with its original 5D, so it decided to borrow the sensor along with most features from the D3. Aside from the slower fps speed (that you could increase with a grip), smaller body & battery and 97% viewfinder coverage, the Nikon D700 was almost the same as the Nikon D3 – some even dubbed it “the D3 brother”. Needless to say, the Nikon D700 was an instant success.
100% crop from the center of the frame:
On the grand scale, however, the D700 became a problem for Nikon – it heavily cannibalized the D3 sales. Why spend $5K on the D3, if you could get a smaller and lighter camera with almost the same features for $2,000 less? And if you really wanted, you could push the D700 to be almost like the D3 by adding a grip and D3 batteries. Consumers were quick to react to this opportunity and Nikon soon realized that it made a mistake by letting one product line compete head to head with another. But it was too late – the D700 was already too popular. Nikon released the 24 MP D3x shortly thereafter, which proved to be a marketing failure due to its inflated price (despite being a superb camera for high-resolution work). Nikon’s professional line suffered all the way until the Nikon D3s was released in October of 2009, which finally created more demand for the top-of-the-line professional cameras once again. With the highly successful D700, well-performing D3s and failed D3x lines, it was clear that Nikon had to come up with a better strategy for positioning and pricing its full-frame cameras.
In January of 2012, the Nikon D4 was announced with a 16 MP sensor, which seemed in line with what I was expecting in terms of resolution. A very modest update in megapixels, different ergonomics and plenty of new features including a revamped autofocus system that works at f/8. We all knew the D800 was around the corner, but still, the biggest question remained – would it have D4′s 16 MP sensor or the rumored super high-resolution 36 MP sensor? Within a month from the D4 announcement, Nikon finally announced the Nikon D800 with a 36.3 MP sensor. Why did this happen and what caused Nikon to change its direction in this full-frame line?
As I have already explained in my “benefits of a high-resolution sensor” article before, I believe Nikon made a smart move in positioning its current and future full-frame (FX) lines. Rather than offering three or more product lines with different performance characteristics and features, it makes a whole lot more sense to have just two distinct cameras – one general-purpose, high-resolution camera (D800) and one advanced high-performance camera specifically targeted for sports, news and wildlife photography (D4). This move obviously eliminates the D3x line and sends a message that we might never see another high-end, high-resolution full-frame camera from Nikon. But in fact, I believe this could actually lead to an introduction of a medium format camera from Nikon in the future… But that’s a whole different topic of discussion.
Traditionally, DSLR cameras with very high resolution have been categorized as specialized tools for landscape, macro and studio photography. With the introduction of the D800, many photographers thought that Nikon is specifically targeting one group of photographers, while completely ignoring others. In fact, as you will see later on in this review, it is actually not the case. There is a reason why I called the Nikon D800 a “general-purpose, high-resolution” camera – because it can be effectively used for any sort of photography. There is a common misconception among the photography community about the size of pixels and their impact on image quality and noise, especially when comparing one sensor to another. If a sensor packs a lot of pixels, it is often assumed that it will perform much worse in low light at high ISO when compared to a sensor with less and bigger pixels.
In fact, it all depends on how you perform this comparison. When a high-resolution image is down-sampled to a lower resolution, its noise characteristics can actually improve dramatically (see my articles on down-sampling). So when comparing a 36 MP image to a 12 MP image, why would you look at both at 100%? Clearly, the 36 MP image would print much larger in size, so it is only fare to compare sensors at the same print size. See this example of just how much bigger the 36.3 MP image is from the D800 in comparison to the 12.1 MP image from the D700:
By down-sampling 36 MP to 12 MP, you would not only reduce the amount of noise, but you could also make the image appear sharper. As I reveal in the following pages of this review, the down-sampled Nikon D800 images look exceptionally good, even when compared to the high-end Nikon D4. There is a reason why the new sensor is rated as #1 by DXOMark among all sensors produced to date. In addition, a high-resolution image has a lot more room to work with for cropping and can produce exceptionally good-looking images at low ISO levels, perfectly suitable for huge prints. Hence, when looking at the Nikon D800, one has to be fully aware of the many advantages of a high resolution sensor and the benefits of the down-sampling process.
Let’s move on to the camera details!
2) Nikon D800 Specifications
Main Features and Specifications:
- Sensor: 36.3 MP FX, 4.8µ pixel size
- Sensor Size: 35.9 x 24mm
- Resolution: 7360 x 4912
- DX Mode: 15.3 MP
- DX Mode Resolution: 4800 x 3200
- Native ISO Sensitivity: 100-6,400
- Boost Low ISO Sensitivity: 50
- Boost High ISO Sensitivity: 12,800-25,600
- Processor: EXPEED 3
- Metering System: 3D Color Matrix Meter III with face recognition and a database of 30,000 images
- Dust Reduction: Yes
- Weather Sealing/Protection: Yes
- Body Build: Full Magnesium Alloy
- White Balance: New White Balance System
- Shutter: Up to 1/8000 and 30 sec exposure
- Shutter Durability: 200,000 cycles, self-diagnostic shutter
- Camera Lag: 0.012 seconds
- Storage: 1x CF slot and 1x SD slot
- Viewfinder Coverage: 100%
- Speed: 4 FPS, 6 FPS in DX mode with optional MB-D12 battery pack
- Exposure Meter: 91,000 pixel RGB sensor
- Built-in Flash: Yes, with Commander Mode, full CLS compatibility
- Autofocus System: Advanced Multi-CAM 3500FX with 51 focus points and 15 cross-type sensors
- AF Detection: Up to f/8 with 9 focus points (5 in the center, 2 on the left and right)
- LCD Screen: 3.2 inch diagonal with 921,000 dots
- Movie Modes: Full 1080p HD @ 30 fps max
- Movie Exposure Control: Full
- Movie Recording Limit: 30 minutes @ 30p, 20 minutes @ 24p
- Movie Output: MOV, Compressed and Uncompressed
- In-Camera HDR Capability: Yes
- Two Live View Modes: One for photography and one for videography
- GPS: Not built-in, requires GP-1 GPS unit
- Battery Type: EN-EL15
- Battery Life: 900 shots
- USB Standard: 3.0
- Weight: 900g
- Price: $2,999 MSRP
A detailed list of camera specifications is available at NikonUSA.com.
3) Nikon D800 vs D800E
For the first time in Nikon’s history, a DSLR camera is offered in two variants – one that is specifically targeted for landscape and macro photography (Nikon D800E), and another for everything else (Nikon D800). In the past, Nikon only offered one single model that could be used for all types of photography. While the specifications, body shape, size and ergonomics are all identical, there is only one difference between these two models – one has an anti-aliasing filter in front of the camera sensor that is designed to blur fine detail, while the other has a modified version of an anti-aliasing filter that retains all the details. Here is an illustration of how this filter works on each model:
You might be wondering about why this sort of filter is needed on a camera, so I highly recommend to read my “What is Moire?” and “Nikon D800 vs D800E” articles, where I explain this topic in much more detail.
4) Nikon D800 vs D700
While a detailed comparison specifications comparison between the D800 and D700 can be found in my Nikon D800 vs D700 article, there is not much info there about how both cameras compare side by side in terms of fps (frames per second) and camera buffer. In the below video, I show the performance of both cameras when shooting 14-bit Lossless Compressed RAW images with very fast SanDisk Extreme Pro 16GB compact flash memory:
As you can see, the Nikon D800 is slower than the Nikon D700 with its 4 fps speed versus 5 fps on the D700. It also lasts about half a second shorter than the D700 before its buffer gets full at around the 4 second mark. Nikon’s estimates for the D800 and D700 are 17 images for the D800 and 20 images for the D700 before memory buffer gets full and fps slows down. My tests are a little off, because the D800 should be a little faster according to Nikon – 17 / 4 fps is 4.25 and 20 / 5 fps is 4. Interestingly, the same thing happens when both cameras are set to 12-bit RAW – the D700 still lasts longer. Note how much longer it takes for the D800 to complete its write from the camera buffer into the memory card – now that’s one huge buffer! I bet it is at least 4 times larger than the one on the D700. Lastly, note that the D800 shutter sounds very different than the one on the D700.
Some people have been reporting memory compatibility issues with the D800. I have not seen any issues so far with any of the SanDisk & Lexar cards I have (I have been using SanDisk and Lexar cards for my cameras exclusively), so I believe memory card issues are happening with cheap third party memory cards only.
5) Camera construction and handling
Similar to the D700 and other higher-end Nikon DSLRs, the Nikon D800 has a full magnesium-alloy frame. The camera is built tough and will last a long time, if it is properly taken care of. So far I have taken it up to mountains and have shot some images at below freezing temperatures and the camera worked just fine. I also used it in very dusty conditions and in light rain and none of the dust or moisture made its way into the camera.
Handling-wise, the D800 is superb – definitely better than the D700 I have been so used to. Although the ergonomic changes to the camera might seem small when comparing the D800 to the D700, there are a few big changes that I really like on the D800. First, the old C/S/M switch on the front of the D700 has been replaced by the one from the Nikon D7000. Now we just have the “AF” and “M” switch options with a button on top of the switch, so changing the focus mode from AF-S to AF-C and vice-versa is accomplished by depressing the button and rotating the rear camera dial. Rotating the front camera dial changes AF focus mode: Single, Dynamic (9, 21, 51), 3D or Auto. Much better and faster to get to than trying to use the switch on the back of the D700 then messing with the “Dynamic AF Area” custom setting menu option. I really liked this feature on the D7000 and I am glad that Nikon ported this change to the D800 as well.
Another big and welcome change is the enhanced rotating dial on the top left side of the camera. Instead of the thin rotating base with the letters on top, we now have a much larger base with the letters on the side. Because of this change, the full surface of the top of the dial is now available, so we now have 4 buttons instead of 3 – QUAL (changing image size and format), BKT (bracketing), ISO and WB (white balance). Now you can access bracketing options without going into the menu or assigning a custom button for bracketing.
The grip went through some changes as well and it feels more comfortable on the D800. While the shape of the grip handle stayed the same, the spacing between the two function buttons and the handle has been increased. When holding the D700, my fingers occasionally touch the function buttons, so it is nice to see this small, but important ergonomic change. People will bigger hands will find the D800 to be better to hold, especially with a battery grip. Speaking of which, I do not understand why Nikon wants to rip people off with a $450 battery grip (MB-D12 is listed for $616 on NikonUSA.com). Considering the battery life of the camera (more on that below), I think they are expecting plenty of photographers to buy the grip, so the intentions here are pretty clear. I won’t be buying the MB-D12; it is just a matter of time until much cheaper alternatives are released by other manufacturers. On the other hand, I am happy to have a $3,000 D800 with a $450 grip than a $3,500 D800 with a $250 grip…
Back to camera handling. The shutter release area of the camera has also been redesigned. Now the shutter release is angled a little lower, which certainly adds to the comfort in my opinion. The “MODE” button has been moved a little further away from the shutter to make space for the smaller video record button, as shown on the image.
One more welcome change is the harder plastic access door to the camera ports such as USB and HDMI located on the left side of the camera body. The door on the Nikon D700 opens up too easily after several years of heavy use, which is kind of scary when using the camera in dusty and wet conditions. Looks like the Nikon D800 will be protected better in that regard.
The buttons on the back of the camera stayed the same, except the Zoom In/Out buttons are now reversed. I agree that it is a good ergonomic change, but it should have been done a long time ago in Nikon’s first DSLR camera bodies. I got too used to having the zoom button lower, so I keep on messing up for now. I guess it will take time to get used to this change.
Oh, and for whatever reason, Nikon decided to flip the (+) and (-) signs on the camera by default. If you are used to the normal way of changing exposure compensation or your shutter speed, then go to Custom Setting Menu, f9 Customize Command Dials and f12 Reverse indicators and change the orientation to (+) being on the left and (-) on the right. This will make the D800 behave like D700 and other older Nikon DSLR cameras.
The AF Area Mode Selector has been replaced by the Live View switch/button. The switch allows choosing between image and movie modes, while the “Lv” button in the center is for getting in and out of the Live View mode. Lastly, the “AF-ON” button on the D800 now triggers VR to get activated. I tested this with a couple of VR lenses and VR started to engage as soon as I pressed the AF-ON button on the back of the camera.
Other than these and a couple of other minor changes, everything else stayed the same.
6) Camera Sensor
Without a doubt, the most important feature of a digital camera today is its image sensor. You could put the most advanced autofocus and metering systems with a boatload of great features into a camera, but at the end of the day, they are all more or less secondary – the sensor performance is still looked at first. Things like resolution, dynamic range, diffraction, color depth and ISO performance are all tightly related to the sensor and its physical size. When I talked about the D800 being “revolutionary”, I mostly referred to the phenomenal sensor technology Nikon incorporated into the camera.
The Nikon D800 features the highest resolution full-frame sensor produced to date by Nikon. With a pixel size of 4.8µ, it is comparable to the excellent sensor on the Nikon D7000, except it is physically more than twice bigger in size. Nikon tweaked the output of the sensor even more with a better image processing pipeline, giving us even better dynamic range and colors tones. As I have recently pointed out in this article, folks at DXOMark made some scientific measurements of sensor performance on the D800 and they found it to beat all other sensors they have evaluated to date, including some high-end medium format cameras. The Nikon D800 topped all cameras in dynamic range, as can be seen below:
In terms of color depth, it came third, right after Phase One IQ180 and Phase One P65 Plus, which is also very impressive (considering that Nikon D7000 is 23rd on the list). But the biggest surprise for a lot of people was the high ISO performance of the Nikon D800 that DXOMark shows. Take a look at this ranking chart:
At first, it mind sound crazy that the D800 could have almost as good of ISO performance as the new Nikon D4, especially considering that the pixels on the D4 are much bigger in size. But as I have already explained at the very beginning of this article, the massive 36.3 MP resolution is what makes this score. When the 36.3 MP image is down-sampled to match the D4′s 16.2 MP image, the high ISO noise performance is greatly reduced. Take a look at the below chart:
As you can see, noise performance on the Nikon D800 is almost identical to the D4 and D3s all the way to ISO 12,800 – it only falls behind at ISO 25,600 at which point it is maxed out (the Nikon D4 and D3s continue at much higher ISO levels). On a pixel level, anything above ISO 12,800 is too noisy for my taste on the D4/D3s cameras, so I do not particularly care about extremely high ISO levels. My working range on my Nikon D3s is ISO 200 to ISO 3200 mostly, with occasional ISO 6400 and rare 12,800. I never go past ISO 12,800, since there is too much color and detail loss. So when evaluating sensors, I do not particularly care for anything above ISO 12,800. If you find yourself shooting at extremely high ISOs above ISO 12,800, then you will surely be better off with the D4 or the older D3s.
Are the DXOMark measurements accurate? Yes, they are and I believe they have a solid sensor testing methodology. I performed my own tests of high ISO performance between the Nikon D4, D3s and D3 and my test data closely matched the DXOMark results. And this is not the first time when it happens. See the second page of this review to see the actual comparisons between the D800 and the D700 and you will see that they also closely match the DXOMark data.
I do not think we will see a camera that will even remotely match the D800 sensor performance for the next couple of years at least. The Sony A99 will have the same sensor as on the D800, but I doubt its image quality will be the same for two main reasons. First, Nikon has a better image process pipeline than Sony (especially in dealing with noise at RAW level at high ISO levels). Second, Sony’s translucent mirror blocks 1/3 of a stop of light from reaching the sensor, which means that the A99 ISO output will have to be boosted further up, resulting in slightly noisier images.
Click here to download the above photograph in high resolution (8 MB JPEG).
7) Autofocus Performance
Before the Nikon D4 was announced, I wondered what Nikon would do with its autofocus system. The legendary Multi-CAM 3500FX system used on all professional Nikon cameras has been extremely reliable, so what else could have Nikon done to improve it? I was hoping to see more focus points and have them spread out on a larger area of the viewfinder. Unfortunately, Nikon did not give us an all-new AF system with more focus points on the D4 and D800, but we did get an updated version of the AF system called “Advanced Multi-CAM 3500FX” that does something no other DSLR AF system can do, which is ability to focus all the way to f/8. While autofocus is limited to only 11 cross-type focus points at f/8, it is still very impressive that it actually works. I tried mounting the TC-20E III on both the Nikon 200-400mm f/4 and the Nikon 300mm f/4 AF-S and I was able to acquire focus at maximum aperture of f/8. AF is not ultra fast at such a small aperture, but it does work, which is great news for wildlife photographers (read more on this below).
If you shoot in indoor/low-light environments, you will be surprised by just how well the new AF system works in poor conditions. I took the D800 for a short tour with me to Denver downtown at night and I was surprised by how well the AF system worked in street light. Take a look at this portrait taken with the new Nikon 85mm f/1.8G in street light at night (1/60, f/2, ISO 3200):
The image had a little grain that I cleaned up right in Lightroom 4, then exported right out of Lightroom with 1024 pixel wide dimensions and “High” sharpening applied upon export. No other edits were performed in Lightroom. White Balance set to “As Shot”. That’s impressive, definitely much better than what I can do with the D700 or the D3s. I was obviously using the center focus point to focus (it is the most accurate of them all), which is why the subject is in the center of the frame. Previously, I would have to stop my fast lenses down to f/4 or smaller to get larger depth of field and re-focus continuously in hopes to get my subject in focus. Now I no longer have to do that anymore – the system is very good at acquiring focus in low light even when shooting wide open. I am very impressed by this new Advanced Multi-CAM 3500FX, it certainly does make a huge difference.
Here is another image sample at ISO 3200 taken 30 minutes earlier after sunset (1/200, f/2, ISO 3200):
Again, no edits were performed in Lightroom!
8) AF Performance for Sports and Wildlife Photography
While the Nikon D4 is the proper tool for sports and wildlife photography due to its faster speed and extreme ISO capabilities, many photographers are also looking at the Nikon D800 for sports and wildlife photography. First, the high-resolution sensor could give some “reach” opportunities with plenty of options to crop in-camera (DX mode) or in post. Second, the AF system on the D800 is identical to the one on the D4 (Advanced Multi-CAM 3500FX, as highlighted above). And lastly, noise characteristics of the D800 are very similar to the D4 when images are down-sampled to 16 MP (down-sampling can also result in increased sharpness). The biggest disadvantage is the slow 4 FPS speed of the D800.
Since many sports and wildlife photographers have been asking me about the D800 AF performance, I decided to share some information on it that I have collected so far. First of all, the f/8 focusing capability is not a myth – it definitely works, as I have already pointed out above. This means that the Nikon 500mm f/4 and 600mm f/4 lenses will also autofocus with the TC-20E III teleconverter and you are not just limited to very bright shooting conditions. I will have to do some more in-depth digging with the TC-20E III and other long lenses, but so far I am impressed by the updated AF system.
What about the TC-17E II that I have been avoiding when shooting with f/4 lenses? Surprisingly, the D800 made my TC-17E II usable again. Take a look at this image, shot with the Nikon 300mm f/4 AF-S and TC-17E II:
While this is not a good image sample, this is actually a 100% crop shot at 510mm, 1/1000, f/8 and ISO 250 (click to open the full-size 100% version). I exported the image with default Lightroom settings (my sharpening default is set to Amount: 50, Radius: 1 and Detail: 50) without any sharpening applied upon export. Down-sampling the image by a little and then sharpening it would yield superb results – look at all the feather details.
And here is another sample image that is down-sampled and sharpened:
If you shoot at higher ISO values, you might want to run some noise-reduction before you down-sample the image to get the best results.
Overall, I am quite impressed by what the D800 can offer to sports and wildlife photographers, as long as you do not mind the slow fps speed.
9) Camera Shake and Hand-holding Technique
If you want to have sharp images at 100% view, then you need to be more careful with camera shake and you need to learn proper hand-holding techniques. Similar to the Nikon D7000, the D800 is more prone to any sort of movement that causes blur than the D700. While down-sampling will yield very similar results as the D700, even with a little blur in your images, if your intent is to print large, then you should take this account. If you shoot with longer portrait/telephoto lenses and want to have tack sharp images, you should consider increasing your shutter speed even more. I quickly learned that shooting at the shutter speed that is equal to the focal length often produced slightly blurry images at 100% view, so I had to use faster shutter speeds to get the maximum resolution out of my lenses and the D800.
One more important feature I discovered on the D800 that now finally works properly – you can use “Exposure Delay” with up to 3 seconds (d4 in custom setting menu) in conjunction with “Self-Timer”. For example, you can set the self-timer to 5 seconds and turn “Exposure Delay” on with 3 second delay. Once the shutter button is pressed, the camera will wait for five seconds, raise the mirror, wait for three seconds, then open and close the shutter, then put the mirror back down. This will prevent pretty much any sort of camera shake – equivalent of using mirror lock up (MLU) mode with a cable release. And speaking of mirror lock-up, if you find this feature grayed out in the menu while your battery is fully charged, check your “Assign Shutter Button” in Custom Settings menu (G4). If it is set to “Record Movie”, change it back to “Take Photos”, which will bring Mirror Lockup functions back.
10) Lens Selection
Our readers have been asking me a lot of questions in regards to lens performance on the Nikon D800. For some reason, many photographers seem to think that their old lenses will be no good on such a high resolution sensor. I have received links to forums and other sites, where some photographers say that only the best pro-level glass should be used and everything else is going to look awful. While some of this is true and the camera surely does put some burden on lenses, do not forget that the pixel pitch on the D800 is the same as on the D7000. Your f/4 lenses will perform just fine on the D800, maybe the extreme corners might suffer a little. So far I have used a number of different lenses and most of them work perfectly fine, yielding plenty of resolution, including some of the older AF-D and AIS Nikkors. The newer lower cost full-frame lenses such as Nikon 24-120mm f/4 VR and Nikon 16-35mm f/4 VR and it worked great, with plenty of resolution throughout the frame. Fast primes like the Nikon 50mm f/1.8G and the Nikon 85mm f/1.8G also worked great, as can be seen from the image samples posted in this review. Optical defects like chromatic aberration are definitely more visible at 100% view, but that’s expected – after-all, we are dealing with 36 MP images here. In most cases, you will find camera shake to be the cause of blurry images, not lenses.
Now if you are a sharpness maniac and you need the best lenses, so that you could make those gigantic prints of sweeping landscapes with extreme detail from center to corners, then I will be publishing a separate post on the best lenses for the D800. I am planning to do some thorough sharpness tests to see which lenses perform best on the D800. I already know that some of the primes like the 24mm f/1.4, 35mm f/1.4, 85mm f/1.4 and the zoom trinity (14-24mm, 24-70mm, 70-200mm) are superb, along with some exotic Zeiss lenses, but I also want to see how the cheaper and older alternatives will do in MTF/resolution tests.
11) Metering and Exposure
Both the Nikon D4 and the D800 feature a brand new and sophisticated 3D Color Matrix Meter III exposure metering system with a 91,000-pixel RGB sensor, face recognition and a database of 30,000 images. Compare that to the 3D Color Matrix Metering II system with only 1,005-pixel RGB sensor on the Nikon D700! The new metering system is excellent. I have been shooting in aperture priority mode for about a week now and I have had very few occasions when I wanted to dial in exposure compensation – the exposure was spot on, especially when photographing people. In comparison, the D700 gets confused by different lighting conditions very easily and I find myself occasionally dialing between -2 to +2 EV. In fact, the Nikon D700 constantly overexposes in matrix metering mode, so I have mine set to -0.7 EV by default. The Nikon D800 does not seem to have any of these exposure problems. I started with 0 EV in matrix metering mode and the camera pretty much nailed the exposure every time. Lola and I photographed weddings with the D800 and metering on people was spot on, definitely more accurate than any other DSLR I have used to date, including the D3s.
Speaking of weddings, I wrote a detailed article on photographing weddings with the D800 / D800E – check it out. Here is a sample image from that article, captured with the Nikon D800E:
12) Shooting Speed (FPS) and Battery Life
One of the biggest complaints by photographers when the Nikon D800 was released was its slow speed of 4 fps (frames per second). Since the Nikon D700 is capable of shooting at 5 fps and can go all the way to 8 fps with the MB-D10 battery grip, many photographers were bummed by the 4 fps limit of the camera and only a small increase to 6 fps with a battery grip attached. What’s bad is that not only do you have to get the MB-D12 grip to get 6 fps, but you are also limited to less than half resolution in DX mode! I personally find this feature quite useless, but those that really need the speed and do not care about resolution as much might consider it as an option.
Why is the D800 limited to 4 fps? The main reason are the massive 36.3 MP files that the image processing pipeline has to process and send to the camera buffer. Even the pro-level Nikon D3x is limited to 5 fps and that’s with much smaller 24.5 MP files! So the 4 fps limit is not something Nikon is artificially limiting the camera to in order to differentiate it from the D4 – it is the amount of data coming out of the sensor, time it takes to process the data and then the buffer limit to keep those files temporarily before saving them to external media. I have a suspicion that the whole 6 FPS battery grip requirement is an attempt to make more money by Nikon. When shooting in DX mode, the camera surely does not need a battery grip to get faster frames – more than half of the sensor data is chopped off, which the camera should easily be able to deal with. In fact, Nikon should allow us to go all the way to 8 fps in DX mode.
As for the battery, the bad news is that D300/D300s/D700 owners will have to replace their EN-EL3e batteries with the new EN-EL15. Unfortunately, Nikon had to replace the old battery due to new battery regulations in Japan. The good news is that the EN-EL15 battery is used by a few current DSLRs like Nikon D7000, Nikon 1 V1 and Nikon D600, so if you already have those cameras you will not need to worry about purchasing spare batteries.
One bug that I have discovered so far with the D800, which I have not seen on the D4 yet, is the memory read/write halt. Every once in a while, perhaps once in several hundred shots, the camera freezes up while trying to either read from or write to the memory card. This freeze lasts between 5 to 10 seconds and during this time, the memory write light is constantly turned on. Turning off the camera does not help, so it is best to just wait it out – I did not feel like removing the battery while the light is turned on. I first thought that my memory card was bad (I was using a 16GB SanDisk Extreme Pro card), so I swapped the card to another one and it happened again. I have never seen this sort of behavior on any of the Nikon bodies I have used to date, so it might be a firmware bug.
The battery life of the Nikon D800 is definitely worse than on the D700. Again, more resolution and larger files certainly take their toll on the battery, since memory read and write operations are greatly increased. In addition, the new EN-EL15 battery does not seem to be as efficient as the older EN-EL3e batteries.
13) Shooting in DX Mode
After I published a few articles on the Nikon D800 and D800E, I received a number of comments from our readers that indicated interest in the DX mode offered by D800. Some even said that they were planning to shoot in DX mode exclusively, since they did not need the full 36 MP resolution and they were fine with just 15 MP. Many are too scared to deal with the large file sizes, especially RAW. Others complain about 36 MP files requiring much more processing power and slowing down their PCs/Macs, etc. I responded to a few comments about shooting in DX mode and here is my take on it. Shooting in DX mode is a waste. You are throwing away more than half of the data just because you do not want to deal with large files. It is like putting a cap on a Ferrari so that it does not go over 30 mph on a 60 mph highway. If you are thinking about shooting in DX mode, why bother buying the D800? Get the Nikon D7000 instead – it will give you 16 MP files and the RAW files are twice smaller. If you already own a Nikon D700 and you are planning to shoot in DX mode, you will be disappointed by what you will see from the D800 in terms of image quality, especially at anything above ISO 800. It is almost equivalent to downgrading a full-frame sensor to a cropped-factor sensor, since you would no longer have the down-sampling advantage.
If your PC/Mac is too slow, it might be time to upgrade it (see below). If you have DX lenses from your legacy DX camera, it might be time to replace them with full-frame lenses. If you are worried about storage and larger memory cards, it might be time to buy bigger storage and memory cards. But don’t shoot in DX mode just because you are not ready to deal with the D800. If you are not ready for large RAW files, I suggest buying a different camera.
14) Cropping Options
When I say do not shoot in DX mode, you will quickly see what I mean in this section. The Nikon D800 gives cropping opportunities like no other full-frame camera on the market today. It had better, with its 36 MP sensor! When shooting large 36 MP images, you will have a lot of flexibility to crop your images – something the 12 MP sensor from the D700 was not very good at. Take a look at the below image that I shot with the D800:
Now take a look at what I was able to do with a little cropping:
Impressive, isn’t it? So much detail! The above image is 2500 pixels wide and has incredible detail at 100% view.
15) PC/Mac Requirements
You might be wondering whether your old PC or Mac with a single core processor and 4 GB of RAM is going to suffice for the D800 or not. If your PC/Mac is more than 3-4 years old, then I would recommend to upgrade it to be able to work with those massive 40+ MB NEF files. If you don’t, you will surely suffer. Opening up the RAW files in Lightroom takes twice longer and Photoshop will need more memory to work with the 36 MP files, especially once you start working with multiple layers at the highest resolution. Here is the configuration I recommend:
- PC or Mac with a dual-core Intel Core i5/i7 (quad-core preferred)
- 8 GB of RAM (16 GB preferred)
- Solid State Disk (SSD) drive to store Lightroom catalog and Photoshop cache files
- 1+ TB of HDD space to store high-resolution RAW files
16) Live View
As I have already pointed out, the Nikon D800 comes with two live view options – one for photography and one for videography. You can switch between the modes by moving the live view lever on the back of the camera. The photography mode is similar to the previous “tripod” mode on older DSLRs – you cannot record video or audio, but you can zoom in and out, track objects / faces and acquire focus using contrast detect. The video mode is used for recording video, so you will see microphone record levels and other video-related features.
While the camera has an impressive live view implementation with more features than on any previous DSLR, there is one very disappointing news – the magnified view on the D800 is not 1:1 pixel level. If you have ever used live view on the Nikon D5000 or D90, you might remember how bad those cameras were for precise manual focusing. The D800 is very similar in this regard. Because it interpolates the image instead of showing 1:1 pixels, the image appears with much less detail. I noticed this while testing lenses and it was a very annoying problem, making it difficult to see if the focus is accurate or not. I was really hoping to use the Nikon D800 for our Nikon lens reviews, but with a problem like this, I might need to go back to testing lenses on other Nikon DSLRs. I thought that there might be a menu setting in the camera to change this behavior, but I could not find it anywhere…
17) Dynamic Range
As I have already stated, the dynamic range on the D800 is phenomenal – even better than most medium format cameras. While I have not done any scientific measurements to evaluate the dynamic range of the D800, I trust DXOMark when it says that the D800 can go as far as 14.4 EVs. I have tried recovering shadow details from RAW files and I was amazed by how much I can pull out of them. There is so much information stored in those 14-bit RAW files, that you can easily restore overexposed and underexposed parts of the image, as long as they are not completely blown out. Dynamic range is the highest at ISO 100 and gradually goes down as you increase ISO. My field tests are showing that shooting between ISO 100 and 800 is quite acceptable without heavy loss of dynamic range. Anything beyond ISO 800 will decrease dynamic range dramatically.
Here is an example of shadow recovery that I performed in Lightroom. This is what the image looked like when I took it:
And this is how it came out after I tweaked a couple of settings in Lightroom:
Here is one more set of before/after images that show dynamic range recovery options:
See the next page to see more examples of D800′s ISO performance, along with comparisons to Nikon D700, Nikon D3s, Canon 5D Mark II and Canon 5D Mark III.
ISO Performance
18) ISO Performance at low ISOs (ISO 100-800)
Some technical junk:
- White Balance: Auto, changed to Custom, Temp: 4300, Tint: +25
- EXIF information is preserved in the images
- Focusing was performed through Live-View Contrast Detect
- Long exposure NR: Off
- High ISO NR: Off
- Image Format: RAW
- Imported images into Lightroom 4 and normalized to 12 MP resolution
- Lightroom export: sRGB JPEG Quality 80
Here is the full image, showing which area of the image I cropped below:
Let’s take a look at how the Nikon D800 performs at low ISOs. Here are some crops at ISO 100, 200, 400 and 800:
The images look very nice with no noticeable noise between ISO 100 and ISO 800 when down-sampled. The only exception is the 4th DVD from the top in blue that seems to lose the striped color marks on it.
19) High ISO Performance (ISO 1600-6400)
High ISO performance is a very important measure of DSLR sensor quality for low-light photography. Here is how the Nikon D800 performs at high ISO levels between ISO 1600 and 6400:
Every step up in ISO adds a slight amount of grain. Shadow areas start to get impacted at ISO 3200 and quite a bit of noise is added at ISO 6400. Getting rid of noise at very high ISO levels would require a more selective noise reduction algorithm, so software like Noise Ninja or Nik Software Dfine would have to be used for best results. See my “Photo Noise Reduction Tutorial” for examples of selective noise reduction.
20) High ISO Performance “Boost” (ISO 12800-25600)
Nikon D800 has two extra ISO “boost” levels – ISO 12800 and ISO 25600 for extreme situations. Take a look at these:
ISO 12,800 adds quite a bit of noise compared to ISO 6,400, but thanks to down-sampling, the detail level is still pretty high. Even at noisy ISO 25,600 there is still plenty of details to work with, although the shadows look pretty bad to me with large grains and artifacts all over the image.
21) ISO Performance Summary
The Nikon D800 yields very impressive results at all ISO levels, even at boosted ISO 12,800 and 25,600. Given how little noise there is, I would not hesitate to use it at ISO 3,200 and could even push it as high as ISO 6,400. Now bear in mind that these are down-sampled images at 12 MP – I had to normalize the output in order to compare the camera to the D700 and D3s.
It is hard to judge the performance of the Nikon D800 without direct comparison against other professional cameras, which is why you should definitely check out the below comparisons as well.
Camera Comparisons
Compared to Nikon D700
Let’s see how the new D800 compares to the older D700. Below you will find image samples normalized to 12 MP by down-sampling.
22) Nikon D800 vs D700 ISO Comparison at low ISOs
Take a look at the below crops at ISO 100, 200, 400 and 800 (Left: Nikon D800, Right: Nikon D700):
At ISO 100, which is “boosted” ISO for the D700, there is no difference in noise.
I cannot see any difference at ISO 200, ISO 400 or ISO 800 either.
23) Nikon D800 vs D700 High ISO Comparison
What about high ISO levels above ISO 800? Let’s take a look:
Again, ISO 1600 looks very similar on both cameras. Little noise here and there, but otherwise very comparable.
At ISO 3200, we are starting to see some noticeable differences. The D800 has smaller grain, especially in the shadows.
At ISO 6400 the Nikon D700 is clearly worse now – grain is much bigger and we are now seeing all kinds of artifacts in the shadows.
Pushed to ISO 12,800, the D800 is clearly leading the game, with close to a full stop of difference.
And ISO 25,600 cannot even be compared – the image from the D700 looks horrible in comparison.
24) Nikon D800 vs D700 Summary
As I have already pointed out before, a high resolution sensor clearly has advantages over a lower resolution sensor when the image is down-sampled. While the Nikon D700 shows very clean ISO performance at low ISOs, the Nikon D800 easily matches it and produces noise-free images. In addition, due to having a much higher resolution, the D800 can resolve a lot more details at low ISO levels – take a look at the small letters on the DVDs and see for yourself.
As expected, the Nikon D800 takes the lead when the image is pushed to higher ISO levels above ISO 1600. Starting from ISO 3200, the difference gets almost as big as a full stop at ISO 12,800 – compare ISO 6400 from the D700 to ISO 12800 from the D800 and you will see that they look pretty darn close.
Compared to Nikon D3s
What about comparing the D800 to the low-light king, the Nikon D3s? Let’s take a look.
25) Nikon D800 vs D3s ISO Comparison at low ISOs
Same deal with the D3s – it shows almost identical performance at low ISO levels:
26) Nikon D800 vs D3s High ISO Comparison
Let’s see what happens when both are pushed to ISO 1600 and above:
Once again, ISO 1600 is very comparable.
And the same at ISO 3200.
At ISO 6400 the shadow area of the image on the D3s looks a tad cleaner.
The same at ISO 12,800.
When pushed to ISO 25,600, the Nikon D3s is a little cleaner and retains colors, while the D800 still shows more details. D3s seems to retain more dynamic range at this ISO level.
27) Nikon D800 vs D3s Summary
Unlike the Nikon D700, the D3s is a worthy competitor to the D800. At high ISO levels, the Nikon D3s shows slightly better performance in the shadows, mostly because of higher dynamic range (visible at ISO levels 12,800 and 25,600). At the same time, the Nikon D800 still resolves more detail at high ISO levels, thanks to lots of resolution and the down-sampling process.
Compared to Canon 5D Mark II
Let’s see how the old Canon 5D mark II fares against the Nikon D800.
28) Nikon D800 vs Canon 5D Mark II ISO Comparison at Low ISOs
I won’t talk about differences in colors here, because it is expected when comparing cameras from different brands. Let’s just look at noise and details here:
Both images are noise-free, but again, the D800 resolves more detail in comparison.
Noise level all the way to ISO 800 looks about the same to me, with very slight differences.
ISO 800 is a little noisier on the 5D Mark II – take a look at the same 4th DVD from the top and note the shadow areas.
29) Nikon D800 vs Canon 5D Mark II High ISO Comparison
Boosted to higher ISO levels, the difference in sensors is even more apparent:
You can see more noise on the 5D Mark II throughout the image, especially in the shadows.
ISO 3200 looks even worse on the 5D Mark II, which seems to be losing some colors as well.
And ISO 6400 is a lot worse for the 5D Mark II, which shows close to a full stop of difference.
30) Nikon D800 vs Canon 5D Mark II Summary
As expected, the Nikon D800 performs better than the 4 year old Canon 5D Mark II. The difference is not so obvious at very low ISO levels, but pretty clear from ISO 800 and onwards. The D800 also shows resolution advantage, just like when compared to the D700; again, down-sampling is to blame for this. The Canon 5D Mark II is worse by up to a full stop at ISO 6400.
Compared to Canon 5D Mark III
Let’s see what the new Canon 5D Mark III brings to the table.
31) Nikon D800 vs Canon 5D Mark III ISO Comparison at Low ISOs
At base ISO, both are very clean, with very similar output and detail.
Unlike the 5D Mark II, the new 5D Mark III shows impressive performance at ISO 800, matching that of D800.
32) Nikon D800 vs Canon 5D Mark III High ISO Comparison
Let’s see what happens at high ISO levels above ISO 1600:
Looks like the D800 is a tad cleaner in the shadows, otherwise both show very good performance.
ISO 3200 is clearly noisier on the Canon 5D Mark III, as can be seen from the above image.
And even more so at ISO 6400 – look at the shadows.
The grain throughout the frame is bigger on the 5D Mark III at ISO 12,800, although not a huge difference. I would say between 1/3 to 2/3 of a stop max.
Pushed to ISO 25,600, both are pretty similar, although the Canon 5D Mark III still shows larger noise artifacts. Again, down-sampling does the magic for the D800 here!
33) Nikon D800 vs Canon 5D Mark III Summary
As you can see, the Nikon D800 sensor has no competition, even from its biggest rival, the Canon 5D Mark III. Although the Canon 5D Mark III shows impressive levels of noise at lower ISO levels, it still cannot quite match what the D800 can do. Don’t forget that there is also a big resolution difference between the two – the D800 is 36.3 MP, while the 5D Mark III is 22.3 MP. So at base ISO levels, the D800 is going to have a resolution advantage for landscape and fashion work.
Since I have been shooting with both the Canon 5D Mark III and the Nikon D800 side by side, I can say that the D800 clearly has the lead in dynamic range. This difference was obvious when I shot the same scene with both cameras, at very similar camera settings. The Canon 5D Mark III consistently overexposed highlights, while the D800 rarely did (the exposure was similar on both). The dynamic range difference was even more obvious when post-processing images in Lightroom – I clearly had more options for recovering data on D800 images than I did with the 5D Mark III.
For example, take a look at the below two image crops from the 5D Mark III and D800:
The original images (RAW) were exposed the same on both cameras, both at base ISO of 100. After I imported them into Lightroom, I moved the “Shadows” slider all the way to 100 and then picked the darkest part of the image for the above crop. As you can see, the Canon 5D Mark III crop looks much noisier in comparison and retains less colors and details compared to the Nikon D800 crop. When pulling details from shadows, the D800 has a lot more information to work with.
Summary and Image Samples
34) Summary
As you can see from this review, the Nikon D800 is a very appealing camera. With its impressive 36.3 MP sensor, which is currently the highest resolution full-frame sensor on the market (as of May 2012), the D800 delivers stunning images in terms of dynamic range, colors and details. While it is slower than its predecessor, the Nikon D700 in fps (frames per second), one has to keep in mind that the camera has to process a lot more pixels. In addition, it produces massive JPEG and RAW files that take up a lot of space in the camera buffer, so it also takes longer time to transfer files from the buffer to a memory card (as shown in a video on the first page of this review).
The slower speed, along with a few other annoyances are far outweighed by the many advantages the D800 has over the D700 – from better ergonomics, dual card slots, 100% viewfinder coverage and movie recording capabilities, to improved autofocus and excellent metering. Above all, the image quality of the D800 sensor is simply phenomenal, with no other full-frame DSLR on the market that can match its performance. As you can see on the third tab of this review, the Nikon D800 performs better than both the Canon 5D Mark II and the new Canon 5D Mark III in high ISO when the image is down-sampled. As a result of the down-sampling process, images from the D800 also show more sharpness and details.
Overall, I am very impressed by the Nikon D800. Coupled with some pro-level Nikkor prime and zoom lenses such as the Nikon 24mm f/1.4G and Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G, the Nikon D800 will become the camera of choice for my photography needs.
I hope you enjoyed this Nikon D800 Review. Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments section below.
35) Where to buy and availability
B&H is currently selling the Nikon D800 body only for $2,999.
36) More image samples
All Images Copyright © Nasim Mansurov, All Rights Reserved. Copying or reproduction is not permitted without written permission from the author.
About Nasim Mansurov
Lens question:
Has anyone tried shooting the D800 with the Nikon 80-400 f/4.5-5.6 lens? My concern is that the D800 may not have the strength to power this lens, due to its smaller battery (focus speed main concern). I currently use as the primary lens on my D3X for horse polo, and it works quite well on that camera.
On my D3X, I tried shooting a 70-200 with a TC-14, however it did not seem to work that well in poor light (very cloudy day, with slight rain). I also shot a 300 f/4 with a TC-14, and again was not satisfied with the results. The 80-400 seems to me to focus faster than either of those two lenses (when they had TCs on them), perhaps because it is not using a teleconverter.
Thanks,
WEJ
Williams, AF goes pretty well on D700 with 80-400, even without battery grip, so why not on D800? Sure, if you need a lightning fast AF you should better chose another lens (i.e. 80-200 AF-S or 70-200 VR and TCs…)
F.
William
I have a D800 and the Nikkor 80-400mm zoom. I used both on a shoot in South Africa recently and did not find any problems with battery life. The auto focus systen perfomed very well.
Rodger
Battery life is not the issue. The problem is focus speed and accuracy. With my D800, the 80-400 (when shooting horse polo) was too slow to respond. Had no such problem with the D3X. I always shoot with review off, and can easily get 4K plus shots on a battery.
Great review Nasim. Thank you.
I have the Nikon D800 and wanted to know the difference between shooting 14-bit RAW : Lossless Compressed (41.3MB) versus Uncompressed (74.4MB) modes. Is the benefit of shooting RAW uncompressed worth dealing with a much larger file?
Please enlighten us. Thanks again
There is no difference in the image quality when you are shooting lossless compressed or uncompressed. I have seen tests that state that the D800 can write an uncompressed file (to a fast card) quicker than it can compress and write. Consequently, using raw uncompressed should allow your buffer to clear faster. … I don’t see a need for shooting uncompressed unless you are intending to use the D800 for repeated maximum frame rate bursts, then you might gain a bit.
Hi Nasim, very impressive review it’s unbelievable you went to all the comparisons and details. I am sold D800 is the way to go! Do you think this will be awesome to use in stitched panorama with a Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 lens?
Well done ! – it is great to have so much information and breadth of opinions on what appears to be a stunning camera …. I think it’s time to go try one and see for myself !
Nasim, Thank you for all the research…. you mean you enjoy it ? !!
It amazes me how many people are willing to discard the D800 because of high pixel density and noise that ‘might’ come with it… I got my D800 2 weeks ago and the detail it produces is unseen in the FF segment. But the real kick is the dynamic range! I’d never sacrifice that over shooting at ISO 100000 that will yield pictures you can only look at on a mobile phone screen while drunk.
I love night photography, but even for that I never go higher than ISO 400. Use better glass, a tripod and a wireless flash. That’s the way produce stunning pictures that can be printed on billboards ;).
The high ISO discussion has about the same value as the one about gold-plated HDMI cables…
gorgeous pics… what lenses did u use for the pics of this review?
Thanks for such a detailed and professional review. I used to follow Ken Rockwell, but you seem to know your stuff better. Rockwell is a bit amateur at times. I like how you’re very scientific and unbiased in your reviews!
Great review and amazing photos!
I wish that you could put some captions under your photos that say where and how they were taken.
I think people would like to know…
Nasim,
Just retread your review and am very excited that I will be receiving my D800 in the next few days. While waiting for my new camera I used my D7000 on a recent trip to Hawaii shooting with the 16-35 f/4, 24-120 f/4 (both purchased in anticipation on the D800) and the 70-200 f/2.8. I really took the time to compare lenses this time and was amazed at the sharpness & quality of images that they all produced. I anticipate that these lenses will perform even better on the D800.
yes with the d800 the lens are very good, on a d800 and d7000 PS i love the d7000
yes with the d800 the lens are very good, on a d800 and d7000 PS i love the d7000 the d800e is a joke
UNBELIEVABLE!!!!
My D800 (which I only ordered two weeks ago just arrived yesterday) as did my D4 (which i ordered the first day of pre ordering.
I am psyched about the D800 but rather blasé about the D4 .Even though I love the idea of 10 fps, image quality to me is more important. I will have to do some quick tests, but am thinking of returning the D4 unopened and purchasing another D800 (maybe even the E, although I don’t like to deal with moire and realize it cannot truly be fixed by software.)
4fps with a motor drive on a Nikon F or F2 when I first started out in photography was fast enough in those days of film (which I miss – especially that Panatomic X,) even for sports and wildlife. Honestly, why do we need 10fps?. I still believe in composing and waiting for the right moment. In sports, wildlife, and even riots…
Will make my decision soon! Curious whether other shooter prefer the D800 over the (heavy) D4.
you have to much money dude… buy hasselblad :D
And you should go back to school dude: TOO much money and not TO much money
well a mistake?!
i know that my education grad is higher than yours… and that kind of childish behave or you are just an asshole, with TOO much money.
I am an amateur canon user who primarily takes pics indoors… family etc. I currently shoot with a 5d mk2.. love it to death. Now the D800 is making me want to buy one. The question is whether it makes sense to hold on to the canon with all its lenses or just jump ship? Is there a huge difference (for an amateur) between the mk2 and the d800? I am not talking very technical stuff, but I dont see my self using a tripod very often unless its a family portrait. I need some advice if I should get a d800 or be happy with my mk2 with the few lenses I have. I have a tamaron 28-75 f2.8 xrdi (my daily lens), a 70-200 f/2.8L, a 50mm f/1.8 and a 100mm f/2.8 macro.
thanks
Ragz
Only you can really answer this question, but ask yourself why you are considering changing. My guess is that resolution isn’t an issue for you as the 5DmkII has plenty of pixels for the type of photography you are doing. Increased color depth? Dynamic range? Improved noise? These all might be an issue for you, but for many the capability of the D800 will go largely unrealized. In looking at your lens collection, there seems to be an opportunity to improve your glass. There is a reason why Canon, Nikon, Zeiss glass is more expensive than other brands. My point is that upgrading your glass may be a worthwhile investment, and if such is your inclination then your current lenses may be less of a consideration for the brand switch. In order to get the most out of the D800 or the 5DmkII or 5DmkIII you really need excellent glass. If you want to have the capability of the D800, then also consider the Nikon 24-70 f/2.8. A less expensive alternative might be a set of 3 Nikon f/1.8 primes (28 f/1.8G, 50 f/1.8G, 85 f/1.8G). Ultimately most serious photographers end up with a much larger investment in lenses than they do in their camera bodies and it is really hard to justify the $ for new glass. As an example, the Nikon zoom “trinity” set of 14-24, 24-70, 70-200 would have a combined value of nearly $6300. A dedicated birder or surf photographer might have nearly $10k in a 600mm f/4. You might also consider upgrading to the 5DmkIII ($3500) and keeping your glass. Or for the same $3500, you could get the D800 and a 50mm f/1.4G lens. So, my suggestion would be to buy the D800 and 50mm f/1.4G lens. Shoot the D800 and the 5DmkII in a head to head comparison and see what you like best. If you don’t feel that there is enough of a difference for you and your needs, sell or return the Nikon equipment and stick with what you have.
I have a Nikon d80 currently and hate the low light performance and am disappointed with overall performance. Only been using it this long as I don’t have much money. I have a few lenses sigma 105mm f2.8 macro, sigma 10-20mm f3.5, tokina 80-200mm f2.8, and the standard Nikon 18-55 vr and 70-300. I love macro and landscape and often take photos in a dark church with a huge variety of lighting. Love to print my macro and landscape big and am very fussy with sharpness, but only use my high iso shots for small posters and web. I also love night time photos especially lightning, so I’m considering the d7000, d700, d3s, and d800. What will best suit me? Your advice is appreciated and even tips on my next lens purchases would be great :) thanks
Dear all,
Has anyone received any further information on an upcoming “D600″ that shall be positioned slightly below the D800?
Best, Christian
The rumors I have seen are that it is to be an entry level FX body. Perhaps 24mp (D3X sensor?). Here is the link to the Nikon Rumors page:
http://nikonrumors.com/2012/05/09/more-nikon-d600-specs.aspx/
Hello Nasim,
This is a wonderful site indeed and I am only sorry I did not stumble upon it earlier! I have two samples of the D4, and one sample of the D800. One of my D4 and my D800 has the left AF point issue, and it is especially pronounced with my 24mm f/1.4 G. The test is very simple and does not require any test charts. I basically set my camera on a tripod, selected center AF point, then right most and left most AF points; I focused by pressing the shutter, and then used self-timer to actually take the photo. then I repeated the test with Live View AF. The results were consistent with the reports that I read on the web. At f/1.4, there is substantially noticeable focus issue with the left most AF point; in live view, all three photos were perfectly focused. This problem does not exist on my sample of the D3x, the other D4, or my D7000 using the same lens. This problem also does not exist with my 24-70mm f/2.8 AF-S or any lens with 2.8 or smaller aperture.
I took my D800 back to Nikon USA (in El Segundo). They are just 5 minutes from where I live. At first, they returned the camera to me with no adjustments, noting that the AF performance was within factory tolerance. After I asked to speak with the supervisor, and demonstrated the problem to him in person, he acknowledged there may be a problem. Th stickiness of this issue is that this is NOT a AF fine tune issue. Because the center and right most AF points do not have the problem; it is only with the left bank of AF points. The supervisor said he will do an elaborate focus calibration on my sample of D800 and see if that solves the problem, and I am awaiting for the results to decide whether to return my D4 that shares the same problem or have Nikon try to fix it as well. At a minimum, it would seem that is problem is not a myth and is common, but may not be universal as some suggest but to really detect this problem you need to have a 24mm f/1.4 G. With the 85mm f/1.4 G, I found the focus even at center AF point to be inconsistent, and like some have reported on the web, I found the LCA problem with the D800 + 85mm f/1.4G that I did not have with my D3x.
I would be interested whether you can conduct a similar test on your sample of the D800 with the 24mm f/1.4G and see if you arrive at the same result. I am hoping the answer is no, then we would know this is a production problem and not a general issue with the D800.
David
Thanks for your observations. I have been waiting for my D800E since Feb 8…I hope I’m getting close. What baffles me is the manner in which the problem seems limited to just one side of the frame. If the center was in focus, I would expect an alignment issue to to result in corresponding problem on the right side of the frame as well. So, engaging in wild and completely unsupported sepculation… I wonder if the problem could be software. Specifically, suppose the Nikon built into its new AF sensor a system that tried to compensate for field curvature. As the lenses get wider, the field curvature becomes greater and as the the aperture is farther open DoF drops… It might be that there is an experimental software routine that was inadvertantly enabled for one side of the AF sensors, but not the other. If such is the case, then the question is whether the AF module software can be updated. This brings up the question as to how universal the problem is and whether or not there is sample to sample variability. You would expect a software issue to affect all cameras with the variation being attributable to sensor alignment. It seems possible that in evaluating a modification to the AF module a easy way to test it would be to apply the software to a subset of the AF sensors thus allowing an esay comparison of the results…. If an experimental piece of code was inadvertantly left in the AF software, then this odd behaviour could perhaps be explained. Thanks again for you observations and thanks again to Nasim.
Thank you for explaining the process as I have dreaded even trying to determine if mine is defective as I suspect that it is based off a few images. Will you please clarify for me what you mean when you say after selecting center AF you right most & left most? Does that mean after setting center AF-snap a pic & them=n take a pic at each af points to the right & left so that I end up with a batch of images to look over & then repeat w/Mup?
I have both the 24m & 85mm so will try it with both.
Thanks in advance for the clarification.
Hi Tinkers,
Here are some reports on the web that explains the test (probably better than I can):
http://www.falklumo.com/lumolabs/articles/D800Focus/OuterSensors.html
http://hifivoice.wordpress.com/2012/05/05/d800-autofocus-problem/
And here is some discussion by Mien on the various lens + D800:
http://blog.mingthein.com/2012/04/05/and-the-nikon-d800-autofocus-saga-continues-with-some-comments-on-specific-lens-performance/
Hope that helps!
Thanks for the links David-I will read them tomorrow & try to test my D800!
well–just got my D800–took some shots, started to crop and the shots are not in focus–they are soft. I contacted Nikon, they were great–had me send three shots in and now I am waiting to do whatever they tell me. Stay tuned!
Hello Nasim and the mansurovs.com community,
I very much enjoy this forum as I feel it is an excellent source of information with some very knowledgeable forum members.
I am hoping to clarify a difference between the 5D MKIII (or Canon in general) and the D800 (or Nikon in general). The difference is in regards to an apparent colour reproduction problem as exemplified in the Dave Dugdale investigation of both systems (see video here: http://goo.gl/Jd3e3). I have been lucky enough to briefly handle the 5D MKIII and the D800 and although I lean towards Nikon the difference in colour is an issue that I found to be true.
Much like Dave, I am an amateur entering the world of Full frame Professional Cameras for the first time and I found myself saying the same thing Dave did “Maybe I’m just an amateur, but I just couldn’t get the D800 to whitebalance correctly”. I could easily draw a conclusion like Dave did where he simply went for the 5D MKIII. In post, I could get the colour to look more natural once I had spent a few minutes with the Lightroom sliders, whereas the Canon looked more or less “right” out of camera with minimal intervention. Why is this?
I have not had the opportunity to fully test either camera but I would very much like to understand what gives the Nikon a “Greenish Tint”? What attracted me to mansurovs.com was when I saw the brilliant photos that were taken with Nikon gear, it made me happy but frustrated at the same time. Is the D800 a more sensitive tool where there needs to be a custom WB set? There was a blind test where Nasim exemplified this issue (http://photographylife.com/nikon-vs-canon-vs-fuji-in-a-studio) This fun game turned my greatest frustration into reality as the Nikon looks far more neutral, a little bit too much so (although they are all great shots, to taste).
Can anyone shed any knowledge as to the “Canon ‘strong-red-channel’” vs. “Nikon ‘greenish tint’” notoriety?
Louis, I’ve had the D800 for a couple weeks now. The issues you are referring to really only apply to
JPGs. (which are compressed and edited by the camera). To get the full value of a camera like this, you should be shooting in raw. All photographs are then edited to taste in post. The camera will not
automatically output 36MP of sharpness. If you want to use this camera to it’s potential you need to work at it. Pro lenses (really sharp), A tripod, and careful considerations of depth of field. If you are not willing to put the work in than you don’t need a 36 MP camera.
Hi Alan,
I was shooting RAW and JPEG and yes the JPEG were actually pretty wild on both bodies. I found that side by side shooting RAW the D800 leaned towards green whereas the 5DMKIII had a prominent red. That’s the issue that I have been trying to get my head around, this was noticeable out of camera.
I certainly understand the accuracy that the D800 calls for and I only got to take some indoor pictures at the store while the Nikon rep described the features with the 24-70 2.8. Pictures were very impressive, but perhaps the issue was the ‘bad’ lighting the D800 WB was trying to deal with. I know that in RAW WB is yours to make as you wish, I just spent quite a bit less time with the 5D MKIII trying to get the color to look “right”.
I had a thought that this might be monitor calibration, maybe the Nikon is more accurate with less contrast and less reds.
I own the D800 as well as a D7000, D3100, and V1. All behave the same in regards to White balance and the Picture settings. Canon uses a different approach and thus out of the box will look different in regards to the JPGs each produce. Both cameras allow the user to greatly modify the appearance of the JPG output to suit ones own taste. I am mostly familiar with the NIkon set up and over the years have tweaked my settings to my own taste. What I really like is that all my Nikons have the ability to be set in the same way and thus I get consistent results when changing camera bodies. In my case I have white balance set to A2,M-1. I use the Standard picture setting with Sharpening at +6 and color at +2. Other settings are the default ones.
As to RAW, I am working myself there slowly but surely. It will take time for computers to get better at processing such large RAW files but I am patient as I am in this for the long haul.
John, Computers are there already it might be all you need is an upgrade.
Alan, did you have to upgrade to handle the D800 files? If so, do you care to share what specs you find adequate for the D800 files?
Luis, Uploads take a little longer especially if you are converting to DNG (no big deal). If you choose “lossless compression” on uploading raw files it will save you about 40% disc space without any loss in resolution. Editing in “Camera Raw 7″ doesn’t cause any noticeable delays.
I am using a Mac Pro 2.66ghz Quad core.
That’s a good tip! I have LR4 and it includes import options, I will have a look, it’s Camera RAW 7 underneath, I believe. I run a 2009 iMac 3.06Ghz Core2Duo topped up with 16GB of RAM, I’m hoping not to upgrade quite yet.
Do you calibrate your monitor(s)? I’m wondering if the iMac is calibrated out of the box or if I should look to calibrate it properly.
Hi John,
Very nice camera gear you have! I think Nikons are very consistent. I had a chance to shoot with a D300S and a D7000 and I thought they were both very good, with the D7000 being awesome I would say. Then I did a shoot with a D700 for my son’s martial arts class and WOW I couldn’t turn off the way the FF sensor helped the depth of field and made shadows look so 3 dimensional.
I have requested a loan from Nikon as the local rep is awesome and an enthusiast for Nikon like no other. He said I could borrow a D800 for a day I just would need to find the lenses. I have a 24-70 2.8 and a 70-200 2.8 lined up from a photographer friend of mine, I really would like to dig in to some settings at that point but ultimately shooting RAW so I don’t know how much the picture settings will help.
Thanks for your input!
I have the 70-200 2.8 and as others have said, this lens is just perfect with the D800. Slightly less contrast and slightly less sharp in the corners at f2.8 but from f4 to f11 just stunning sharpness with beautiful bokeh. A very 3d effect! I also have the 14-24 2.8 and sent it back for repair after putting it on the D800. Very soft in the corners. The folks at Lens Rentals where I bought the lens agreed and have repaired the lens for me. I get it back this Friday. I also use the 50mm f1.8 and the same story of stunning sharpness from f4 to f11.
I think the biggest disappointment with the D800 is the realization that often you just don’t need all that sharpness! But maybe in the future when there are computer monitors with 30mp or more pixels, the true beauty of this camera will be realized. For now getting 20×30 or larger prints is the only way to really see what 36mp can do for you.
By the way, I did my own noise comparision with the D800 Vs the D7000. Using both in the DX mode high ISo comparision favored the D800 by 2/3rd stop. I would have thought they would have been equal. When doing the comparison using FX and then downsampling to the D7000 16mp the advantage is close to 2 stops in favor of the D800.
That is very interesting about the D800 vs D7000 in DX mode, Nasim said it’s a waste to buy the D800 for DX but I had thought of using the D800′s DX mode with the 16-35 F4 for general shooting and having something like the 35 1.4 and the 105 2.8 Macro for paid work… I like the 35 1.4 and the 100 2.8 Macro on the 5D MKIII I liked those 2 focal lengths on a FF sensor.
The D7000 is such a fantastic camera but I know I will regret not going full frame in the long run… Now there’s this talk about a D600 FX for USD $1500 24MP, it would be something to explore if it were true.
I have only one DX lens, the 16-85mm. I tried it on the D800 and found that you can either have the camera automatically crop by 1.5 or you can try full frame. So when I did the full frame option I was a bit surprised in how much larger the actual image captured was over the arbitrary DX crop mode. What you get in the FX mode is an image that looks like the early Color TV’s of the 60′s. The image goes from top to bottom but has a circular shading on the sides. What final pixel count you get depends upon what crop ratio you pick. Go with a square and you can get 20mp! Do a 16×9 and you can get 16mp! Crop 8×10 vertically and you get the total height of the full frame. (camera in horizontal position) These are more pixels than I can get with the D7000
The amount of “extra area” you can get depends upon the focal length, fstop etc. that you pick. I did a close up flower photo at 85mm and had rather realistic shading but only in the corners.
The sharpness of the 16-85 held up well in the areas outside of the DX crop. Sure, a real
FX lens would be better but if you do not have such yet you can still have fun.
Luis
While I thought Dave Dugdale did a nice job, I would have weighted his results differently. In addition to the resolution, the dynamic range and color depth of the D800 are superior to the 5DmkIII, and for me that is much more important than high ISO video noise. Mr. Dugdales intended use is focused more towards the video as opposed to Landscapes etc.; recall that his website is LearningDSLRVideo.com … his focus is video. As far as the white balance is concerned, He was evaluating “Auto” white balance…I’m not certain why it looked so far out on his white balance test, but seemed fine on all of the other examples. I really haven’t seen the color that far out. While it may be the the auto white balance responses are different under the conditions tested, I only use Auto for these situations where the lighting is odd anyway…and even then I shoot in raw a correct in post. As for the red issue with Canon sensors, here is a great article that talks about the design philosophy between Nikon and Canon sensors: http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Publications/DxOMark-Insights/Canon-500D-T1i-vs.-Nikon-D5000
This is a technical article that actually looks at the spectral response of the different colored pixels of somewhat older cameras. It provides insight into why the D800 color depth and dynamic range are better as well as addressing the differences in red response.
Eric, thanks very much for your link and information, This is the answer I was looking for:
“The red channel of the Nikon D5000 shows a typical behavior, but the red channel of the Canon 500D presents a very high mix of red and green. As its sensor is not able to distinguish the little nuances between green and red, the color rendering algorithm of the Canon RAW converter software has to compensate for this lack of color accuracy by applying high gain during color processing.”
This is exactly it, I believe that Canon has made an effort to make this ‘lack of color accuracy’ the standard as this Canon ‘red look’ has the tendency to help skintones. This subtle difference is what I noticed. I have been to DXO mark many times for lens ratings but had not looked to this article.
My take on it then is that Canon lucked out by having this color inaccuracy work in the favor of skintones, unanimously, when I asked my friends and family to tell me which pictures they look better in, they picked the Canon, out of camera.
Admittedly, there was a mix once the images had been processed, but, when one is learning it’s easy to dismiss the advantage of color accuracy as people like to look pink rather than accurate. I can see that we may take advantage of the color accuracy as Nasim exemplifies on this website.
One more thing, if I could trouble you, I have a 2009 iMac, should I be looking to calibrate my monitor?
Hey Luis
Out of camera JPEGs are definitely a consequence of software decisions. When I shoot JPEGs (rarely), I always adjust the in-camera settings. FYI here is a video comparison of the D800 vs the Hasselblad H4D40: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9UBTE4xpvpk . In this comparison, they find that the Nikon is a little too red/magenta as compared to the Hasselblad. My point is that white balance, particularly auto white balance is based on software assumptions. The auto white balance algorithm may be optimized to discern the difference between Tungsten and flourescent or perhaps optimized to discern the difference between shade and cloudcover. The different decisions are going to impact the look of jpegs shot with auto WB. However, if you look at the D800 jpeg comparison at dpreview, its pretty tough to find a significant difference in color between the D800 and 5dmkIII, thus implying the difference seen is probably in the bias of the auto WB algorithm.
In my opinion, you should definitely calibrate your monitor. If you ever want to print your images, having an uncalibrated monitor can be very frustrating. It is very disappointing to have the printed version look way different than what you had seen on-screen. It also a bit painful to find that 3 years of photos suddenly look wrong when you buy a new monitor. Calibrating your display allows you to be certain that what you see is what you want, and makes your images independant of hardware.
I use the Colormunki Photo to calibrate my monitor and to generate my own ICC profiles for each paper and printer I print with. It’s easy to use and the profiles integrate into LR and PS. I have found that even with an inexpensive printer such as an Epson Artisan, I prefer generating my own ICC profiles over using the generic profiles supplied by the paper manufacturers. Since I often print big (40×60 inches is not unusual), getting accurate color the first time matters.
I have also used the Spyder4 Pro which only profiles the monitor. I was happy with it.
I have not used the Colormunki Display monitor profiler, but based on my experience with the Colormunki Photo, if I was going to buy something for only profiling a monitor, this is the unit I would buy.
If you think that you might want to make your own prints for display, I’d get the Colormunki Photo. If you aren’t interested in producing your own prints, then I’d look at the Colormunki Display (even though I haven’t used it). I think the Spyder4 pro is a fine device as well.
Hope that helps
Yes Eric this helps immensely, I’m very grateful for your time. I will look into the Colormunki as I very much appreciate the ability to detach my image colour correction from my hardware.
For anyone looking for further reference, I found this great post here at mansurovs.com
http://photographylife.com/case-study-skin-color-problems
What a great site this is!
Salam Nasim,
Just started following your website and it’s been fantastic reading so far. I’m not sure if someone has asked already but would it be possible to know what lenses and perhaps settings you used for some of your photos?
Thx
Dan, I preserve EXIF data in my images for our readers – see this article I posted a while ago: http://photographylife.com/what-is-exif-data
Thank you Nasim!
Hi Nasim
That is a great review and outstanding example pics. Can you share the location of these rocks? They looks like around NV/AZ/UT but not sure some of them look different.
Murali, absolutely! The place is called “Bisti Badlands” and it is located in a very remote location of northwest New Mexico.
Thanks Nasim. It’s awesome.
Man, I love this group collaboration thing going on here – big thanks to all those that are helping me out in responding to comments. Your help is very much appreciated!!!
Nasim… Today i did some test with my d800 and 70-200 vr II.
What’s the point to get the 105mm micro when u can have amazing macro pics with a 70-200mm and cropped it beautifully with d800′s 36mp???
Danielle
I’m not Nasim, but I own both lenses. The 105 has a 1:1 maximum reproduction ratio whereas the 70-200 has max ratio of 1:4. So while a macro shot properly framed with the 105 and D800 would give you a full 36mp image, the same cropped shot from the 70-200 would only give you about 9MB at best. Plus, with the loss of pixels you may see more noise and lower detail (depending on the final size used). If your intended use if primarly on-screen (and not huge screens) then cropping should be fine. If on the other hand you want to achieve maximum quality for prints, you might be happier with the added pixels. Having said that, your implied observation that the D800 offers a lot of flexability is right on.
thanks Eric you’re right…
def the 105mm is gonna give you much better quality… i think is gonna be my next lens… just wondering if i really gonna use that much to justify the difference in price between the lens or use my others+cropping
If you’re shooting macros, say under 6 inches in maximum dimmension you will start to see the difference. The 105 is a really sharp lens and great with the D800. Another possibility is the 200 f/4 micro. Greater standoff, but a full stop slower, still 1:1, no VR. If you are shooting flowers, bugs etc, the 105 or 200 micro are great lenses. You could try a set of closeup lenses for your 70-200 to see how often you use them…
I agree with Eric. The micros are far better at getting really close but alternatives for your present lens is either a close-up lens and/or extension tubes. The Canon 500D is a quality close-up lens that can be used on the 70-200 as well as the 105 Micro. If you get it in 77mm you can then use step down rings to use on other size lenses. The Kenko Auto extension tube set comes as a series of 3 different size tubes to increase the magnification of the lens it is used on. I have actually used the close-up lens in conjuction with an extension tube on my 105mm micro to get even closer than 1:1.
Hello,
I have one question and perhaps someone can give me a helpful answer. I am not sure to buy a D800 (actually I own a D7000), because I don’t need the full resolution for every photo. In this case, what is better:
1. To shoot in resolution “M” with a full frame lens or
2. To shoot in “DX mode” with a good DX lens (I own the 17-55 2.8)
Thanks for your help!
Regards
Stefan
Stefan
Because of the number of variables associated with your question, it is difficult to give you a definitive answer. The D7000 is a very capable camera. The D800 is incredible, it has great Dynamic Range, Color Depth, Hi ISO capability, and so forth. But if you aren’t printing large and trying to extract the most from the sensor, the differences in image quality may not be what you will notice most by moving up to a full frame camera. What you might find to be the most exciting aspect of a full frame body is the wider field of view that can be obtained. Nikon’s widest DX lens is the 12-24 zoom. However, this lens on a DX body has an equivalent field of view to that of a 18-36 on an FX body. Lenses like the 14mm f/2.8 or the 14-24 f/2.8 or the 16-35 VR offer perspectives that are unavailable in DX. Your 17 – 55 is comparable to a 25-82 on an FX body. So the answer to your question will really be based on how you intend to use your camera. If you find yourself shooting at 17mm a lot now, then the D800 and some wide glass may be the place you want to be. While there is no problem shooting in DX mode and essentially turning a D800 into a D7000, I expect you will fall in love with the Full Frame viewfinder and quickly begin to desire full frame glass.
Actually the Nikon DX wide angle zoom is now 10-24 or 15-36 in FX terms
Right you are. I had missed that one as I haven’t shot DX in a while. That lens makes the D7000 a lot more attractive if you don’t need the pixels.
Thank you for your wonderful, insightful review. One question, can you clarify what you mean by down sampling the image for comparisons to smaller sensors? Does this just mean for example exporting the image from Lightroom or Photoshop as a JPEG resized to the number of pixels of the smaller sensor?
Thanks, keep up the great work
Eliot
Eliot, yes, you are right – downsampling means resizing to a smaller resolution.
Hi Nasim,
This is probably the best review of D800/E I have read so far online. You have really set the bar up high for all the reviewers out there. I have also read your article on downsampling which is great and I was wondering should I use the same parameters for downsizing D800 images that you have mentioned in your “How to properly resize images in Lightroom”?
Thanks
Gogol
Question:
What is the advantage of shooting in TIFF mode on the D800, as opposed to 14-Bit NEF? Is there more detail (especially shadow recovery) available, or better color, or perhaps some other advantage(s)? I convert my pictures to JPGs using DxO (they finally released modules for the D800), and then sell them on Smugmug (they don’t except TIFF files unless you pay extra). Therefore I ask the question above, especially if the final JPG will not reflect the difference.
Thanks,
WEJ
I would love an answer to this as well.
Hi,
I need some help…I going to new york next month (I live in Venezuela) , It seems that I won’t be able to buy/find the D800. Is it a waste of money to buy the d700 (2200) . Should I wait? ( I have a d90 and I want to upgrade to fullframe)
Thanks ,
Edgar
What’s the main type of photography you do? (sports, photojournalism, wedding, portrait, landscape, etc)
Hi,
landscape, wedding, portrait
Edgar
The D700 is a huge step up from the D90. Full frame aside, the ISO capability will offer you a huge improvement. I would reccomend getting the D700. You will love it. If you find you need the higher resolution, the D700 will always serve well as a second body.
My 0.02$ …
If you are planning to keep the D90, my suggestion is to sell it and go for the D800. That counter intuitive advise has the following justificaiton
- You have a $900 (used) + $2200 D700. The total cost is > the price of D800. The DX capability of the D800 is as good or better than the D90. So, you give up nothing and have a pretty nice camera.
On the other hand, if you are selling the D90 to finance the D700 or if you NEED a backup (meaning you are a pro) then a D700 is sensible.
Hi all,
I’m a D700 user and going to upgrade with the D800, but does the D800 do noise performance really better than the d700?
thanks guys.
Hey there
Yes, but… The D800 is better than the D3 and D700 but not quite as good as the D3S. However, at the pixel level, you might see more noise with the D800 than with the D700. But at the image level, the D800 is clearly better. In other words, framing the same image with a D700 & D800 under the same exposure conditions will yield a lower noise image with the D800 when viewed at the same image size.
I hope when you are comparing the d800 to the d3 and d700 you mean noise level. If that is the case, that’s correct. Matter of fact, some say d800′s noise beat the d4. I shot d800 a few time with 4000-6000 iso (pretty high right? mainly because in door, low light, dance party, you get the idea), and the noise level is amazing. Hardly noticeable, especially considering it’s 36.3 megapixel, which allow some post noise reduction. I highly recommend the d800 Edgar, the d800 is much better for your type of photography, not saying the d700 is bad, but it’s like comparing a mountain bike to a road bike. They are both good “bikes” just different purpose. However, what is in you’re lens bag? Lens make just as much difference if not more. If you don’t have some decent lens, i would go d700 + some sweet lens, and then slowly save up for the d800 and eventually sell or back up your d700. D700 is not a bad camera, with sharp lens and d700, your image would look about the same as d800 with some cheap lens.
I will put my d3x up against the new d800. I think we are all getting so crazy about the latest cameras and thinking that the camera will make you that super photographer. Secondly good quality lenses are much more important when you get up to this level of high end cameras. Maybe we all need to concentrate more on our craft and less on the latest, newest camera body that will be outdated in another year or so.
Hello, and thank you for your time, and responses, I was curious to know if anyone has, or even will use the Nikon D800 with the Nikkor 50mm f/1.8? I plan on buying the Nikon D800 and saving up for lenses when possible, and my sole lens would be the 50mm f/1.8, and I am certain that even though it is a basic lens, it would serve well until then. I am an avid enthusiast and I enjoy using my Nikon D700, with the 50mm, and my favorite Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 MF, with the ability to turn out some very decent keepers! I am considering the D800 for the new features it offers over he D700. Thank you. Yes I am aware that an enthusiast does not need this camera, however, I am only interested in what I want. I actually have a tendency to float toward what is considered the “artistic” side of photography, and I feel the Nikon D800 would help me in that area, and also allow me to print canvas sized if needed. :)
In response your your question about using the 50mm f1.8 with the D800, I have some good news for you. This lens is very, very sharp especially between F4 and F8 . At F2 and F2.8 there is some corner softness (not bad though) and at F11 you will just start noticing diffraction sneaking in. I was so impressed with this simple prime lens that I have ordered the 24mm F2.8 as well. The best zoom currently available (Nikon 24-70 F2.8) has shown not to be as sharp, way bulkier and way more expensive. The only Zoom I have that shines with the D800 is the Nikon 70-200 F2.8. (if you are into animal or bird photography this is the lens you must have! Save up for it and you will not regret getting this lens) Also great is the 2.0 Tele converter although lots of practice is needed to obtain sharp photos.
Is this 50mm F1.8 D or G?
I have heard that 24-70mm is not as sharp and does not seem to be worth the money. On the other hand 70-200mm 2.8 VR2 may well be the best lens Nikon has ever made, certainly the best zoom.
I have the D but there is no optical difference between the two. The 70-200 is my favorite lens. Not light but still easily handheld. The only way to get better quality than this lens is to spend three times as much for lenses that are twice the weight. I use this lens frequently with the x2 tele converter to get to 400mm. The problem with that much zoom is your technique. It can deliver very sharp results but focusing is very critical, as is atmosphere clarity, shutter speed, available light etc.
I have the Nikon D700 and really like this camera a lot, I have had it for 3 years. Lately I have been photographing events that require distance shooting and action. I also have been photographing wildlife, horse shows etc. I am thinking my second camera should be a DX camera instead of a D800 another full frame. I need a faster camera to shoot action so was wondering which one I should get. I am assuming all my full frame lenses will have increased distance on a DX camera. Thank you of any insight.
Hi Susan,
The D800 and the D7000 (DX camera) have the same pixel density so there is no difference between these two cameras in regards to your telephotos at maximum distances and magnification. However, both these cameras have three times the pixel density of the D700. But there is more to the story than just pixels. Ability to focus fast and accurately and perhaps have the ability to shoot at a fast frame rate could dominate over pixel count. That is why there is the D4.
I have the D800 as the best compromise. It has the best focus system, pixel count, and best high iso performance in existence today. It’s possible downside is the 4 frames/second maximum.
I still have the D7000 which is frankly almost equal to the D800 if you are just doing the telephoto lenses. It has a faster frame rate than the d800, almost as good focusing system, and almost as good high ISO performance.
There is one other thing you should take note of. Most of the best nature/animal photographers use the D700. The biggest gripe for some folks was the lack of any video option for this camera.
Thanks John. I know my friend who is a birder was going to order the D800 but she said she needed a faster camera for burst mode so she went with the D7000. My other friend same scenario went for the D300s at least I think it has an “s” after it. I definetly need another camera body as photographing events I can’t be switching lenses from wide angle to telephoto. So I guess I was trying to figure out for sports, events, wildlife or anything that moves :) what the best 2nd camera body would be. The D4 sounds amazing but then I saw the price tag, yikes! If I go with that one I had better start saving quickly! Thanks for the information.
Don’t you have a battery grip for the D700? I just looked at the D700 specs and you can get it as high as 8fps which is the same as the D300s fps with its grip
Don’t know about the D400 I hear that may be coming soon but it looks like Nikon will be also releasing it’s first entry level full frame D600 much sooner and I don’t know about the specs for either camera but I suspect the D400 will likely have the same speed as the D300s but i doubt it will have the increased speed with a grip as several new cameras haven’t been configured to increase speed with the new grips so its a wait and see how they turn out :)
No, I never got a battery grip as my hands are smaller plus I wasn’t used to the weight of the camera and lenses. So I opted out and just have 3 batteries. I started off just doing portraits, abstracts, flowers so the battery grip wasn’t an issue. Now that I am in the field more I could see how it would be helpful. But than again I will have to purchase another L plate from RRS to accommodate that. :0 Never ending costs with photography, yet I love it so it make it all worthwhile. :) I may just hold off for awhile especially since I am making monthly payments on my Nikon 12-24. Awesome lens and worth every penny or I should BIG BUCKS! The next camera I get I will get the battery grip. I would like a camera that can handle more weather conditions so assuming that is the D300s or whatever follows. Or is that the D4 that is more for extreme conditions?
if you want a fast camera the highest fps on the DX line is the Nikon D300s which shoots 6fps and 10 fps with the battery grip attached
The D7000 also does 6 fps but doesn’t go any further with the battery grip
If you want the fastest possible I’d suggest the D300s with the battery grip
woops the d300s is 8 fps with the battery grip… my mistake
8fps is plenty fast for action shooting
but if you want to go any higher, only the heavy and expensive full frame D4 can go as high as 11fps…
Thanks Tim. Looks like the D4 would be the top of the line and do what I need but the D300s is more in my ballpark cost wise. Of course originally I said that about the D90 and though a great camera I decided for the D700 and I have had no regrets. It is hands down a great camera. Someone told me since the D800 came out probably a D400 or something newer than the D300s is on the horizon. Do you know? Thanks again Tim and John for getting back to me. :)
Susan
You can also look into a good used D3 (or D3S). They are available with under 20,000 clicks on a 200,000+ click shutter. They have full pro bodies with incredible weather proofing etc. Downside (for some) is that they are big and heavy. However, compared to a D4 you can save quite a bit of money. Since the D3 has the same sensor as the D700, you could sell the D700 and wait until fall when you can get a D600. Then you’d have a fast action camera (D3), and a 24mp camera body (D600) for landscapes etc. … Both full frame.
If you need the reach, have you considered some new glass instead of a DX body. The nice thing about lenses is that they last forever. Many people are very happy with the 80-400 zoom, although the autofocus may be a little t0o slow for some fast sports. Available new at under $1700, it might be an option. Sigma makes a 50 – 500 for about the same price as the Nikon 80-400. Sigma also makes a 150-500 that is available for under $1000. I tried them both, was pleasantly surprised, (prefered the 150-500), but ended up with the Nikon 200-400.
Food for thought…
I’m buying the D800. I have a 70-200 2.8, a 17-35mm 2.8, a 50mm 1.4 and 28-70mm 2.8. I have the D300 and the D300s. I never bought DX lenses because I was advised early on about the eventual full frame on the digital camera. Today I almost sold my 17-35 and my 28-70 to replace them with a newer 24-70. After reading up, I’ve decided to see how the lenses I already have work with the D800. I normally use my 50, my 17-35 and my 70-200 anyway. I shoot weddings and portraits mostly. I found I had fast focusing issues in low light with the 28-70. Not sure if it was the camera’s or the lens. Sometimes the shutter button would freeze at key moments no matter what lens I used so maybe it’s the camera’s. I always carry two on me during a wedding ready to grab the other if needed.
Hi,
I am wary of the 24-70 f2.8 in that it does not have image stabilization. I have come to realize that this is as important as having a lower F stop. I think you will see some real improvements in this zoom range over the next year or two. It is the one area where there just is not enough choice. Already Tamron as come out with such a lens that has gotten very good reviews and costs much less than the Nikon.
It is time Nikon does a zoom in the normal range that is as good as their 70-200 f2.8. Myself, I am going to use the primes for this range. I have the 50mm 1.8 and the 24mm f2.8 and both give very, very sharp images on my D800.
Re the future being with FX and choosing lenses accordingly, you have been very wise.
I have the 17-35mm – I am looking forward to see how it goes on a D800E. I also have the 28-300mm which some have said will be up to the job and others says no. We shall see. But I have some 2.8 pro primes too.
I too would counsel against the new 24-70mm and the fact it has no VR – and it is not in the same class as 70-200 VR2 – which will be on my shopping list. A number of lens manufacturers have NOT come up with a pro grade 2.8 midrange zoom yet – a definite hole. I can see Nikon must be working on that right now.
Re the future being with FX and choosing lenses accordingly, you have been very wise.
I have the 17-35mm – I am looking forward to see how it goes on a D800E. I also have the 28-300mm which some have said will be up to the job and others says no. We shall see. But I have some 2.8 pro primes too.
I too would counsel against the new 24-70mm and the fact it has no VR – and it is not in the same class as 70-200 VR2 – which will be on my shopping list. A number of lens manufacturers have NOT come up with a pro grade 2.8 VR midrange zoom yet – a definite hole. I can see Nikon must be working on that right now.
Josie
I think you should keep the 17-35. A wide zoom is spectacular on an FX body. I have both the 17-25 and the 14-24 and I use them both whereas I rarely use my 24-70. In addition, the 28-70 is a great lens and I am not sure you would see much of a difference in upgrading to the 24-70. Since the D800 has improved low light AF, the issues you are experiencing may go away. I reccomend that you keep the glass you have since its all great stuff. … If you do want to make a change, have you considered the Micro 105 VR f/2.8? It is one of Nikon’s sharpest and might make a nice addition for things like tabletops, flowers, rings etc.
I meabt 17-35, not 17-25
Thanks Eric,
Yes, Thanks to what I’ve read, I’m keeping my lenses. I’ll check out the 105 micro too!
For those who have or who will soon have the D800, I have some interesting comments for you all to consider. Of course the resolution of this camera is a primary draw. When I first did some test photos, I must say my excitement dropped a bit. Why? When displaying on my 4mp Mac cinema display (one of the best out there) the photos look exactly like those from my D7000. Yes, I can see vast differences when viewed at 100% but that gets old after a while. It is the whole photo I want to see, not just bits.
Then I did a test at various ISO’s and I discovered one of the D800′s best features. When I compared shots taken at 100 through 3200 ISO I could not see any difference! Remember I am looking at a 4mp photo here. (I did the same test with the D7000 and it is easy to see the loss of detail and heightened noise at ISO 3200) I get the same results when I print at an 8×10 size.
Those 36mega pixels have more going than just resolution. Few of us will ever print large enough to see the extra detail, but when you need that high ISO or you need to really crop (that bird just was too far away!) you really start to appreciate the D800.
I like to think of pixels as film grain. The finer the grain the sharper the image. In the days of film there was limited ability to change the grain, at least at a cost that was affordable. The digital sensor reverses that static trend of film. Over the years digital sensors just got better and better. With the D800 we may have reached the point where the grain is so fine that the limitations become your lenses and technique only. And that is the way it should be.
Great review! I have a question: Is it possible to get the D800 to focus just before tripping the shutter on “self timer” mode? I purposely focused to a blur, set the self timer, and the D800 did not re-focus. I had autofocus set to Auto C and it did not track! If there is a way to manage this I’d like to know.
Nasim,
thanks for a great review. i am eagerly awaiting your review of the 5d mark iii. one thing i am curious about . . . maybe you could consider saying a little something about it. it may be p.r. spin, but i imagine quite a few people have read the interview with the d800 engineering team that nikon put up on their site:
http://imaging.nikon.com/history/scenes/32/index_02.htm
one of the engineers suggests that people should consider shooting in the (approx.) 20.3 megapixel mode. he explains that this uses the full sensor, and essentially downsamples in some (hopefully ideal) way. this would mean that the d800 is like having two cameras in one: something like a 5d mark iii (though obviously slower, BUT with better dynamic range and possibly sharper detail), and then a very high resolution camera for those times when you know you want everything the sensor has to offer.
deciding when 20.3 mp is enough would depend on a lot of factors. maybe some people would just never use that mode. but it seems to me that this makes more sense than using dx format. you get plenty of detail, you use the full sensor, you get a hopefully ideal sampling algorithm designed by the nikon engineers (who apparently had this usage in mind), and you get to have some of your files be smaller when you feel you don’t need the whole nine yards.
the main question, then, is how do you think the d800, shot in medium 20.3 mp full frame mode, compares to the 5d mark iii? the review at cameralabs (http://www.cameralabs.com/reviews/Canon_EOS_5D_Mark_III/Canon_5D3_vs_Nikon_D800_quality.shtml) suggests that the d800 looks a bit sharper (and, to the reviewer’s eye, more naturalistic).
if you think you can mention this in your 5d mark iii review, that would be marvelous. i would be quite happy with the 5d mark iii if it weren’t for the fact that the d800 seems to have a noticeable advantage in dynamic range. i know i can make great photos with both of these wonderful cameras. but the d800 does seem to be revolutionary, and i am tempted to go in that direction (even though i generally prefer the canon ergonomics and user interface). with either camera, i know i will be very pleased, but i find the d800 so tempting . . . just looking for any extra insight you might have.
thanks for all the service you give to the photographic community. it’s a big deal to do all this work in addition to the photography itself. much appreciated.
Hi,
I thought I would comment on your thoughts about using the D800 at the 20.3 megapixel mode. I tried this myself the other day (also tried the 9.3 megapixel mode as well) on my D800. I primarily did this to see whether the down sampling in the camera would improve the noise at higher ISO’s (3200 and above). I am happy to report that it does make the noise less visible yet the detail is still there. You hit on what makes the d800 so versatile. If one wants maximum detail at low ISO’s then use 36mp. If one is using ISO’s above 1600 then use the 20.3 or the 9.3 mode. High ISO photos are not going to be blown up to large size prints so why waste the memory the larger files take?
thanks for your reply, John. good to know people are trying this out. anyone else out there who has tried this?
John, if you don’t mind a follow up . . . can you say anything about the slight hesitation some people have mentioned with the d800 autofocus? a few reviewers have mentioned a behavior in which it locks on quite quickly, but then second guesses itself or something. this is discussed, for instance, in first video review by calgary’s “the camera store”:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omTo7UxbJX8
as for resolution settings . . . seems like there might be situations even at low iso in which one could still decide to go with the medium resolution.
i am still curious if anyone has done or could do some comparisons between the d800 at full frame medium resolution and the 5d mark iii at full resolution. maybe Nasim will mention this in his 5d mark iii review.
i really wouldn’t care so much about all this comparison except that i love the way the eos body feels in my hands. that’s a personal thing . . . hand shape and the way some user interfaces seem more intuitive to one person rather than another (like . . . i still don’t understand why some people have a hard time using windows). so, something in me would rather just get the canon.
however, that extra dynamic range in the d800 . . . seems like that would be so great. the rich detail of the d800 is surely something i would like to try and use as well, but i’m not drooling over megapixels. and i can see myself being quite happy to shoot at 20.3 mp in a lot of situations, especially while learning the camera. i’m sure i will get used to the feel and interface of the d800 if that’s the way i go. in either case, i’m very excited. two very solid cameras.
Hi Aiden,
My experience with the focus has so far been limited to just using the center spot in AF-S mode. I use this mode a lot for animal photography. It has been spot on and I have had no problems. I have fine tuned all my lenses, something that is more important to do when you have this much resolution. It will take many months to get into the groove of this camera. At first I was not as impressed as I thought I would be, but as I use it more I am getting more enthused. I have a (D7000 which I use for comparisons). I have just been shooting DX for years and going back to FX is not without a bit of practice. Focus is more critical just for starters. Less depth of field, heavier feel to the body, larger viewfinder just to name a few more.
There is no monitor that can even begin to display the quality this camera possesses, but over time I expect that to change. I will soon have some 20×30 prints done to see how they compare to ones I have done with the D7000, and before that the D300. i will be in the Sierra Nevada mountains this coming week and will get my first chance to test this camera in the field.
If there is some focus issues I am sure Nikon will address them. They have a lot at stake in this camera.
The size options of medium and small are only available with JPGs, not with NEFs. As such, for those of us who spend a lot of post-production time on files, we normally only shoot in NEF. I will, however, run some tests (I have just set my D800 to shoot in FX, and record both NEF and medium size JPG). I normally shoot with all in-camera adjustments (Distortion, Vignette, High ISO, etc) turned off. For purposes of my testing, I will keep my settings that way.
Note: The medium or small JPG option can be chosen with any of the D800 image sizes: FX; 1:2; 5:4 or DX. Testing, however, is still required to see if the results are the same as post-production downsizing.
WEJ
Ran test, and the sharpness of the NEF files is better than that of the medium JPG files. I process my files using DxO Optics. Ran test with the Nikon 80-400 lens. All shots were handheld, with shutter speeds of 1/4,000 for some, and 1/5,000 for others. If anybody want to see the shots, let me know, and I will create a gallery on my website.
WEJ
You should post those shots. It would be a great example as to one of the ways to get the maximum sharpness out of the D800. After all most folks are getting this camera just because of the resolution.
Here is a link to some of the test shots I took. I don’t normally shoot insects, however this was a “target of opportunity.” All shots can be downloaded to your computer. This is a hidden gallery on my website, and can only be accessed using the link below. Let me know if you have any questions.
Link: http://poloslides.smugmug.com/Other/D800-Medium-JPG-Test/23421242_hSsKBs#!i=1892049625
WEJ
Hi,
I checked out your postings and I am having a problem. When I view the butterfly at 100% the N version is quite a bit larger. (I would say 50% linear or over double in area). So I find it hard to make a fair comparison.
It is well established that all else being equal, RAW will be sharper than JPEG no matter what settings used. I would note however that Nikon JPGs are slightly soft out of the camera as the default sharpening is only +3. I have found +5 or + 6 to be a better default setting. Thanks for taking the time to post.
William,
thanks for making that clear. i did not realize that the medium setting was jpeg only. canon have a reduced resolution raw option, and i didn’t realize that nikon didn’t offer that on the d800. are you sure there is not a medium raw as well as a medium jpeg?
meh . . . so it goes. i would be shooting raw in most circumstances, so that means the medium mode would be of limited use. i can always downsample in post, but it would have been nice to potentially manage some of the file size and noise by means of an in-camera downsampled raw file—at least in some cases.
The D800 can record NEF files in four sizes: FX; 1:2; 5:4 and DX.
Each of the four NEF sizes can be simultaneously recorded in three different JPG sizes: Large; Medium and Small. In addition to size, the JPG can also be one of three types: Fine; Normal or Basic. Another setting for JPGs, later in the menu, is JPG Compression: Optimal or Size.
And that doesn’t even cover your TIFF options.
The D4 offers the same options.
I agree that the option to automatically downsize would be nice, however Nikon, so far, has yet to offer this. So I shoot in NEF, normally in the 1:2 size (few of my customers ever order bigger than 8 x 10, so final print size in not a problem), as this give me 5 FPS.
I am currently testing my D4, and MIGHT afterwards sell my D800. Hey Bob, are you interested in a used D800, if you are still waiting on a new one?
WEJ
Hi Nasim,
I am a regular reader of your blog posts and loved your articles. I would like to know your opinion about one post from Thom Hogan (May 14 ’2012 D800 Lens Choice) where he commented “At 36mp on the D800, though, diffraction impacts start recording noticeably at f/8 and above “. What are your findings here and how can we counter such problems? Thanks.
Dear Nasim and good folks
There is a rare quality about this site which I like. The tone is productive and friendly. So thank you and your guests for that. Keep it like that :-)
I have been following this thread for some time and thought I might hand in my little review of the D800 which i was lucky to get in march.
I was waiting to get my D4 when I had a chance to sneak peak a testing model of the D800.
The pictures this thing could do for almost half the price made me change my path.
My only concern for getting the D800 was how would the low light performance be like compared to the D3s, and the D4.
So here goes:
Stills:
The D800 performs way beyond my expectations in regards to still photography. The dynamic range was/is always good on the D3, but here its amazing. Much more than any computer display or printer (at this date) will ever show.
The resolution is astonishing. Go look for artifacts on 14bit raw. Good look. I am printing native A2 prints in 360dpi that would blow your mind.
ISO performance:
I will shoot any assignment at any time in full size raw up to 6400 ISO. The little noise (or pleasant grain) on 6400 is just beautiful and astonishing on 36MP. I have no clients who ever once would say. “Uh those small grains in your picture are ugly”. They are not. They just add some lowlight feel to it, that we have seen so many times in movies, old black and whites etc.. All my clients recognize this as a treasure. Why all the no noise hype?
Display:
The display on the D800 is not what I would call revolutionary. The whole idea of making it “smart” is not smart. The Hue, Saturation and auto light just doesn’t do it for me. I am thrown more off the actual image than on. But all I personally need the display for is; Is it sharp. Does the histogram show any warnings? I find the Display on the D3 at least just as good and much more trustworthy. So no upgrade here.
Autofocus and Lightmetering:
Well. The autofocus on this is good. Basically all I ask, is that its trustworthy. It has at times been off on faces and eyes, which the D3 was excellent at.
I never normally use anything but the center focus point. But have started to use the 3D continuous mode which is truly excellent. Actually better than center focus single mode. Its seems to me like the 91.000k sensor truly kicks in once in 3D mode, but doesn’t do the job on single center point mode?
Light metering is good. But so was the D3. So I see no improvement here and none was needed if you ask me.
Handling and weather protection:
At first its a bit cramped getting your hands around the grip. Especially being used to the D3. But all thats forgotten. The quality of the house and feel lives totally up to my expectations. Mine has been in rain and sandstorms already and the sealing is impressive.
The only thing I dislike about the handling is that d… ISO button. Its just not the best place to put it. I keep finding my self fumbling to locate and then hold down the ISO select button and dial to find the ISO i want.
Video:
I also bought the D800 for video. Not the main reason, but to get the DSLR video look and to lesson all the video gear I own.
I am very impressed on the handling, the contrast autofocus which I never thought I would use anyway. But I have started on using it cause its reliable.
I will not blame the camera for the hard to see when its in focus. Cause there are third party tools to help here. Like the LCDVF from http://www.kinotehnik.com or another one from http://www.zacuto.com. The MOV files are really easy to work with. Nikon has really prepared themselves for a good video launch in this camera. And praise to them for that.
There is Moiré. And more than most would like. YES its true. This will for some be a downside and for others like me. Doesn’t matter. Not that I am not professionally proud. But for the cost of this thing I do not expect the top. The picture quality of the video is already mind-blowing.
Audio handling is important and like any DSLR for video its also a drag to work with here. BUT. I am truly amazed on the quality of the Nikon ME-1 stereo mic. Its a great little mic and if you set the max gain on the D800 to manual 11/20 you get good enough sound that you in some cases can use as reportage on track two, and for later reference its more than good.
Computer hardware and how much do I need to spend:
Well it takes time to load these .NEF (raw) on to a disk. three times as long as the D3.
Likewise for Lightroom to generate a 1:1 preview of the .NEF. Also you will find your filling up your disks faster than usual.
But at the same time I take less but better pictures when on assignment. This camera can reward you with some technically brilliant shots if you take your time to learn it. How often are any of us in a situation, where we only have 1 second to take a shot? Very rare. So since the D800 has landed in my backpack I have changed the way I take pictures. Less shots but more thought of.
So if your a news photographer or work in speedy deadlines. DO NOT BUY THIS CAMERA.
Thoughts:
I respect those who do not see what they need 36MP for. But I cannot understand why so many are talking about buying the D800 and then using it in DX mode. I hope not to tread anybody on the toes here. But if your trying to convince your self to get the D800 and then only shoot 20MP in DX mode, then get another camera! I would never dream of shooting in anything but its maximum at all times. I do still believe that a picture should be cropped when taking it. Not later. Some of the magic of an image is lost each time we crop from the full size.
For many it might be worth waiting for the not yet officially announced D600 for its lesser pixel size yet Full Frame capabilities if 36MP is to much.
The best thing about this camera is its resolution and ISO performance on this resolution.
So if your specifically interested in the D800 ask your self.
Do I want a slow (FPS) camera that takes amazing 36MP raw images even at 6400 ISO? And would that fill in my needs? Or could my photography perhaps take a new path with this new camera?
Cause these are the true unique things about the D800 that no other camera has to offer at the moment for this price.
Atb of good photography
Sofus Comer.
PS, there are some D800 images on my website. http://www.sofuscomer.com
Насим привет! Наконец то я поймал тушку! Как побороть зеленый дисплей? На дисплее фото зеленят а на компьютере нормально?
Возможно здесь ответ потеряется, можно его скинуть на почту мне: rwr777@mail.ru
Заранее благодарен!
Насим ответите?
Равиль, Никон утверждает, что цвета на новых дисплеях правильные, и что все предыдущие камеры добавляли слишком много синего цвета. Так что исправлять ничего они не собираются. Если честно, я на дисплей камеры смотрю в основном для оценки четкости изображения. На цвета я вообще мало обращаю внимания, потому что снимаю на RAW и цвета все равно меняю в Lightroom или Photoshop…
Да, спасибо Насим. В принципе это не критично, просто купив камеру я пошел на съемку и не сделав съемочные тесты дома, был немного удивлен. Далее скопировав все файлы на компьтер, увидел что все в порядке и это не критично. Ждал от Вас подтвеждения об этом. Еще раз благодарю Вас!!!
absolutely love this camera.. great for stills… superb for video.. shot some test video … have a look
http://youtu.be/2dLpHOi4v90
bought it mainly for shooting stills (have couple of D700) in weddings.
Cheers
Abhinav
A great article thank you.
I’m just a photo hobbyist, so spending on gear is hard thought over.
The UK prices don’t help either!
I use a D7000 & find it an exceptional DX camera, with the D800 having similar pixel density, if it delivers like the D7K but with 2.5x the frame size it is going to be as you point out, an evolutionary step.
It also offers the possibility to use a DX lens & get D7K equivalent (or better) images while you build up more suitable lenses, it’s the wides that usually DX specific.
I will be buying – once Nikon actually make some, & selling the D7K while it still fetches a worthwhile sum.
Thanks for a great read.
Hello Nasim,
Im experiencing a problem with my new D800 and studio lighting. i take measurements with my seconic meter and shoot with a large softbox. images come out about 2-3 stops underexposed. when i used my d3200 and d300s in the same setup at the same time, the images are perfect. even histogram on D800 shows that images are way underexposed. i was wondering if anyone had issues like that. thank you.
P.S. i trigger the strobe with Pocket Wizard.
David, to understand your problem, you are measuring the light with a light meter, then dialing the result into the D800 that is set to Manual mode right? Are you also setting your ISO manually? I have used the D800 in a studio and I did not have any problems with exposure, so maybe it is a camera setting that is doing it?
Hello. Yes everything is set manually. 1/250, d800, iso 100. No compensation.
Hello Nasim,
I have ordered D800 from Amazon, not received yet. But I saw a comment from Amazon today:
“I read hundreds of reviews and ordered the D800. But then I downloaded the technical manual from Nikon-usa……And that’s when I started worrying because they made it pretty clear that you are expected to be on tripod for great results. What they did not say is that you actually have to be on tripod for anything but mediocre results!
The camera came today and after dozens of trials with super good Nikon lenses it became obvious that NO usable sharp photos are possible handheld unless you are at unrealistic speeds and ISO.
Very disappointed and the camera is packed up and waiting for UPS pick up!
NO , under no circumstances would I recommend it to a friend…..Actually not even to an enemy. ”
Is it the case that shooting D800 has to use a tripod? If so, I am scared as well.
Thanks,
Jay
Jay
This is just wrong. Nikon’s point is that if you want to obtain medium format results, you will need to use medium format techniques. Yes the D800 can resolve vibrations that a lesser sensor cannot, and if you zoom in to the pixel level, you can see the impact. … But if you normally print to 8 x 10, then if you scale down the D800 image to that size it will look BETTER, even hand held. Similarly, if you are planning to use the D800 to allow more agressive cropping, then again, you might see the need for better technique. In all cases these are positive features that allow us to up our game, but they do not provide limitations as compared to other cameras. The D800 is not more prone to shake, it just has the pixels to be able to resolve it. Use a D800 just like you would any other Nikon DSLR and you will get similar or better results. If you compare the D800 to a D### and start with a similarly framed image in the viewfinder, then display at a similar size on the monitor or print, the D800 will not be worse.
On the other hand, if you do not go to the extra effort of sturdy tripod, mirror up, remote release etc. you may not be able to extract the best quality of which the camera is capable. IMHO Anybody who claims that the D800 sensor is in some way limiting is making an error.
The quote you listed might be associated with an individual bad camera, but it is not indicative of D800 performance. I have compared handheld results of the D800 to these models: D70, D80, D90, D7000, D2x, D3, D3s. On average I get better results with the D800. So either the camera was bad, the user was making a mistake, or this was some troll seeding misinformation.
Good reply Eric.
I have D800E, but it’s early days but already learnt a couple of things. One is that now VR lenses with static images taken hand-held are going to be more important than ever AND the crop-ability of this camera (especially the “E”) – which has an equivalent in focal length of the camera. You crop or go pixel-peeping and it is the similar effect to optically zooming in. So the same rules apply re keeping up shutter speeds with tele-zoom lenses.
What I am saying is that I agree with you and don’t blame the camera.
Agree, i’ve read some where that a save bet is use inverse of the focal length in shutter speed. So if lets say a 300mm lens, use 300th of a sec. Of course that’s in the safe zone. I have shot 200mm with 30/40th of a sec, which is crazily low for a telephoto, but i got a steady hand, and i just lean against a object (good way to do it).
Dear Jay,
I have used the d800 with 70-200 2.8, 85mm 1.4, 50mm 1.8, sigma marco 50mm 2.8, nikon 14-24 2.8, and nikon 28mm 2.8. We (a professional photographer that i work with and I) only used the tri pod once for a long exposure (over 5 sec), while every other shots were done handheld in all sorts of situation. We are unique in the senses that we can shoot everything, perhaps not everything, but a wide range of items. We shoots events, weddings, Bat/Bar Bitzvah, sports, etc. Certainly the D800 focus system is not as fast as the d3, but still usable base on the result of a baseball game we were hire to shoot for. Mean while, the real test for the sensor is probably shooting a recent Bat Mitzvah event. As you know, low light + people running/dancing around, is perhaps the least ideal situation possible. We did use a flash later on, but that’s way after dark. None, never, we experience any sorts of strange sharpness issue like you. We were mainly shooting at 60th – 80th of a sec and boost to some where about 200th from time to time. Like Eric mentioned, perhaps it’s “either the camera was bad, the user was making a mistake, or this was some troll seeding misinformation.”.
Forget “fear of flying,” now we’ve got sensor resolution paranoia. Please, can someone with a bit of insight and experience with the 800 comment. Were all the other reviews part of a Nikon ruse, or was “Very Disappointed” sponsored by Canon or, as a less nefarious option, victim of sudden onset Parkinson’s syndrome? :~)
The Sky is Falling so Have a Good Day,
Donn
Donn
I responded to Jay above. IMHO “Very Disappointed” did not make sense. The reported results are not consistent with the laws of nature. The camera AF might have been bad, or perhaps it was, as you imply, a disgruntled fanboy of a competing brand. As an observation, I find that folks who have “super good Nikon lenses” and know how to use them recognize the value of providing full information and usually list the lenses they used. This individual did not mention lenses used or any other Nikon bodies for comparrison… it does make you wonder. “Sensor Resolution Paranoia” (SRP for short) is a purely psychosomatic afflication cruable by a placebo. As such the appropriate cure is for the sufferer to don a Jimmy Buffet Parothead hat and drink margarittas until a rational thought process has been restored.
Comment (522), I’ve used a d800 hand full of time, and the result are simple. Like this post mention, noise can be cause not only by Pixel Density and Size, but also the pipeline. The d800 shooting at 4000iso (Very un-ideal situation, low light indoor) were clean. In fact i wouldn’t go above 4000 on a d3, but the d800 i be alright with 5200, and a little freak out at 6400, although it’s still fairly clean. Note, a lot of people down size samples of “noise comparision” to like a tiny fraction of a picture. Of course you are going to see noise. However, the reality is, if you look at the picture as a whole, if the image is clean, it’s clean. Unless you go into a art gallery and stick your face 1inch away from the art. As in big print, 13×19, no problem. And also, if the picture will be print big enough to be bother by the noise, that gotta be like a wall size photo, where you be 5 feet away. Have any of you ever walked up to a bill board 1 feet away and study it’s pixel and noise? Probably not.
So that was the noise, which a lot of people in concern with for a sensor with huge amount of pixels and tiny pixel size. As in the auto focus system, as expected, it’s slower than the sport beast d3, which make perfect sense. Getting a d800 to shoot sports is like cutting vegetables with a folk. However, the focus is extremely accurate. We were surprise when it was able to auto focus on the closest eye to the camera during a headshot, because the person had glasses on. Amazing that it can tell the difference between the glasses and the eye.
Build quality, i love it. less bulky than the d3 (i actually like the d3 weight and size), the d800 nailed it, good balance of weight and still substantial
Benefit of extreme high megapixel. Three main thing, bigger size, sharper, more detail.
-We all know that high megapixel = allow us to print bigger size. But like i mention before, no one walks up to a billboard with 2 feet of distance away from it.
-Sharper, well obviously because let’s say the edge of a object and the background is captured by 1 single pixel, then it will combine the two different intensity of the light wave and have a average, thus not as sharp. Oppose to two individual pixel for each light wave, that means more accurate in capturing the light wave, thus give a better shape of the object. Hard to explain, i tried.
-Details, similar idea as sharper, camera captures a scene in a 2 dimensional, unlike our eye, 2pt perspective. So how can the camera tell the shape of the object? Well, by the difference in the light intensity that hits the sensor, Brighter vs darker, which give us the shape, since when we see a object, we are actually look at the light it reflects. So the idea is, more pixel = more accurately capture the difference in light intensity, thus better image detail.
What more can I say? I don’t want to talk about the crazy nerd technical parts and all those junk (although i kinda did briefly), real experience shooting the camera is better than ANY controlled test result IMO. Im sure it’s same for you guys and girls, if not, why not just read Nikon’s feature/description? We want to hear each other’s experience with it, that’s why we’re here. And my experience with the d800 is… holy cow, that’s amazing!
Dear Jay K., Eric and others,
I really appreciate your responses/comments, as well as sharing your experience. I just got an email from Amazon that they shipped out the D800, so I should get it soon. Now all of you have given me the confidence that D800 can be used handheld just like any other camera. I will purchase a Nikon 50mm f/1.8G AF-S to try out with and w/o a tripod, and once I like the camera, I will gradually order more lenses . Any thoughts, comments are welcome.
Thanks again!
Jay
Of course it depends on what you enjoy shooting. My favorite lens is the 14-24 f/2.8, however the 16-35 is also very sharp and has VR. But… I think you should consider the 105 f/2.8 Micro. This is a very sharp lens, and it will help you to be able to get the most from your camera. Also, the close focus capability allows you to take incredible images of flowers etc. If your primary use is weddings, people at events, street photography etc, many folks would consider the 24-70 f/2.8 a must have. For indoor sports and concerts, the 70-200 f/2.8. Having said all this, I know of some folks who have purchsed the 28-300 for their D800. IMHO, if you want to get the most from your camera, the 28-300 might not be the best option as it starts becoming diffraction limited very quickly. Of course all of the fast primes are great choices too. Ultimately, it comes down to your budget. My advice is to decide what your shooting priority is and then consider consider one of the f/2.8 lenses I listed above.
Eric,
Thanks. I tested D800 using 85mm/1.8G for two weeks and overall I think it is very good. I also tried to test the auto focus issues and not completely sure if the camera I got has an issue or not on the far left side. I have one concern about the D800 for the 36.3 MP which I do not think is useful for me and I probably do not want to deal with it.
I finally decided to return it, and purchased a D700. I am thinking to get a 16-35/4.0 to start with. Any suggestions for the lenses for D700?
D700 now has better user review than D800 on Amazon.
Jay,
D700 is a great camera and unless you are printing big probably a better choice than the D800 for many. Having said that I am ecstatic about the D800E. The 16-35 is a great lens. I prefer the 14-24, but the trade-off between the two is that with the 16-35 you get VR and filters whereas with the 14-24 f/2.8 you get higher shutter speeds in low light, a slightly wider field of view and better subject isolation if desired. The 17-35 f/2.8 is also a great lens, no VR but f/2.8 aperture and it takes filters. The 16-35 f/4 is the lowest priced.
After the wide zoom (which really shows off the FX sensor), it all depends on what you want to shoot. The 28-300 is a very covenient lens and in conjunction with the wide zoom would cover the entire range of focal lengths. The IQ of the 80-400 is better, but you have a hole in the mid range. To fill that hole, I love the 24-70 f/2.8 as an event lens, I haven’t tried the new 24-85 VR. If you want to shoot indoor sports, get the 70-200 f/2.8 VRII. If you want to do any macro work the 105 f/2.8 VR is your best bet because it gets you greater standoff than the 60 micro. For low light, any of the f/1.4 or f/1.8 FX lenses would probably work… The 50mm f/1.4G seems the best value. Having said all of that, if you don’t need the long end, the other nice option is the 24-120 f/4 VR.
So. I think that for FX a wide zoom (16-35) is a must. After that….I’d say try the 28-300 to see where you are shooting. Fine tune your AF. Then see what focal lengths you are using the most. If you are always using the 16-35 at 16, consider the 14-24. If you mostly use the 28-300 within a certain range you can upgrade to the pro glass that covers that range. I have a great collection of lenses and although the 28-300 is not quite as sharp as some, it is so versatile that I use it to be sure I get the shot. In your case it might be the ideal tool to help you to determine what (if any) other lenses you may need.
Hi,
I have just completed a camping trip in the Sierras of California with the D800. This was a good test of hand held shots in lesss than ideal conditions ( freezing temperatures, lots of dust etc)
Very,very sharp photos using the 70-200 f2.8, the 50 f1.8 and the 24 f2.8 Nikon lenses. Never used a tripod. What I did notice were (1) some problems with the single focus mode hunting when aimed at small targets such as distant birds, and (2) soft corners on a few photos that have to do more with the FX format over the DX format which does use the sweet part of the lens.
I like to photograph animals and lots of deer were around to give me practice. The D800 I’d very well. I have had much practice before using the D7000 (same pixel density) and this has paid off when using the D800. Py attention to your shutter speeds, focus, and aperture and the results handheld will be spectacular. I see no need for a tripod unless lighting is really bad and you do not want to up the ISO. (up to 3200 ISO is really not a problem with the D800)
Finally got my D800 with 24-70mm 2.8g. Love it…thanks Henrys for D800…thanks Vistek for lens
Hello,
I usually use the real-time zoom of the live view in order to shot macro photos. With my brand new D800E (just 3 days ago I changed my D90 for this beast :D) I have a problem which causes the image on the live view to be a preview of the shot. Sometimes this is a problem, for example when you shot with the flash, since the screen becomes totally dark and unusable. Could you please suggest a fix to this “problem”? I think is a problem that can be simply fixed changing a setting… but which one?
Thank you in advance, Valerio!
Hi Nasim..another gr8 article.
I am a regular follower of your site.the articles u post are very accurate and clear to understand.As i am a serious amateur photographer having passion for nature & wildlife,your articles have helped me a lot in improving my photography.
I have a question to ask abt Nikon D800.At present m using Nikon D200 with sigma 150-500mm.Now m thinking to upgrade my body coz m using D200 since last 4yrs.But now i m confused whether D800 is a good option for me wid my Sigma 150-500mm.
Also can u plz guide me about nikkor 300mm f4 + 1.4TC or 1.7TC with D800.
Kindly waiting for yor reply…
I have the Sigma 150-500mm and did a few test shots the other day – only got D800E a little over a week ago and haven’t had a chance to take it on a field trip yet. But the Sigma auto-focussed quite well. I also tried it with a Kenko 1.4 TC (700mm) and it didn’t do too well. Read that reducing auto-focus to 11 points is better, so night time here, will try outside tomorrow. But test shots I did around my neighbourhood shows the Sigma very capable with D800E and lots of detail, even with the Kenk0, which is no slouch. Bottom line, don’t hesitate getting and using a D800 with the Sigma. Fantastic value lens you already got.
Nasim (or anybody else)
The D800 has a USB 3.0 connection. The Sony XQD reader that comes with the D4 also has a USB 3.0 interface. Do you know of a reliable USB 3.0 board that will go into a Mac Pro computer? It would sure be nice to have a USB 3.0 interface to get pictures from the D800.
Nasim, here is a nice comparison of filters I found online.
http://www.lenstip.com/113.1-article-UV_filters_test_Introduction.html
Dear Mansurov,I decided to go for D800 after reading your review.I never saw any mention about the green tnit in Lcd and other bugs that a lots of people are crying about in other forums.Are these problems real? Think this and other bugs could be resolved with firmwares in future?Is there cause for worry?My D800 is already shipped and will reach me on the 26th.I am surprised you find time to answer most of the quistions asked by your readers.Thanks a lot for each and every article that you have put up for us.I can imagine how much of time and effort has gone in to this.It reflects your passion for photography.You generously share your knoledge with your readers.I have benefited greatly from your site.Thanks a ton.Your pictures are great too.You inspire.All the best.
hello nasim and all folks.
Iam new to the forum ,i consider my self an advance amateur,i have been using nikon d700′i just recieved my d 800′and iam truly impressed with the camera performance,this one phenominal camera but all new gear there is learning curve,the real biggy is i dont need zooms you can downscale or magnify your picture.This is complete camera in my veiw.You can use dx lenses with resolution of around 16 mps ,now thats simply fantastic ,i have handled the canon mk3 but it does evoke industrial prescision as the nikon,thats why iam a nikon shooter forever.
Nasim can you please share your settings for outside,and studio projects and also the use of built in HDR
Thanks
Mustaqeem Ahmed Qazi.
Hi Nasim & Lola
Love your website! I’ve learned so much by venturing on here everyday… even at the office. lol
I just purchased a Nikon D800 (body only) and was wondering you opinion on good lenses for Landscapes, Weddings, Fashion, Corporate Events, and street photography. I’m considering two FX lenses for now to start off with
1.)AFS NIKKOR 24mm f/1.4G) &
2.)AFS- NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VRII)
your feedback will be most appreciated :)
Thank you in advance
Would someone please explain why a higher resolution sensor is going to cause a higher degree of camera shake at the same shutter speed? If you are shooting a 125mm lens at 1/125 second, shouldn’t a D800 have a comparable image sharpness (due to camera shake) as a D700?
Thank you,
No difference in shake if you down size the D800 image to the 12 MB of the D700. But at 36 it picks up finer detail when you look the picture at 100% and finer detail means you will see more of the impact of shake, poorer lens, etc.
Eliot is right. There is a “telephoto” aspect to this as we “zoom” into the image, similar rules apply as they would to telephoto lenses.
But I would also add this: The DOA (Depth of Field) is also affected. I took a 3/4 length portrait and the D800E detected the face and focussed on the right eye – exactly as you would want it to do and shows the intelligence of the camera. The subject was illuminated with a nice softbox and it came out very 3D like.
The lens was 50mm and F5.6 and a reasonable distance. The right eye was perfect, but then I noticed the right ear just behind, that it was ever so slightly out of focus. Not much but still obvious. I feel sure I would never have noticed that on my D700. DOA is certainly been affected.
In many ways we are discovering new things with the D800/E – and in the above example the “E” may well have been the key.
Depth of field in terms of “circle of confusion” will not be effected by the higher resolution sensor. THat is unchanging physics. However, smaller pixels will pick up a smaller circle of confusion and so something will seem out of focus that would be seem n focus with larger pixels. (A pixel can only resolve something larger than it is.) It is analogous to the magnification effect you mentioned. Something appearing in focus will be out of focus when magnified. The same thing happens with diffraction which will be noted at more wide open apertures.
Exactly, the COC does not change but simply becomes more exposed. Perhaps ‘real’ and ‘perceived’ DOF impression has real world affectations with the D800/E.
There is another thing that strikes me, get a photo pin-sharp using say F5.6 midrange to short prime, then when pixel-peeping at 1:1 the D800E looks significantly less vague than D800 where you need to go to to 2:1 to loose that vagueness or softness. Under those ‘special’ circumstances when everything comes together just right, the E is seen as having less DOF. The plane of exact sharpness is noticeable smaller.
But is this just academic? Or does the ‘E’ really have an edge that matters. The latest interview with Jim Brandenburg says ‘yes’ – but that is in the context of the work he does.
All I know is that for me the world of photography got a lot more interesting – and glad I got the E as it appeals to some part of me… now the other part of me needs to take more photos. LOL
The true DOF between E and non E has to be the same but since non E is slightly less sharp you will need more fuzziness to note a difference and so DOF will appear to less with the E. Of course all of this occurs only when pixel peeping at 100% and is unlikely to have real world impact except perhaps in huge prints or a lot of cropping.
To put it differently, the higher resolution sensor allows you to resolve a smaller amount of shake. And yes, the D800 and D7000 are similar in that have a similar pixel pitch, so for a given lens, blurring at the pixel level due to camera shake etc. should be the same. However for a given image (ia framed to use the whole sensor), The D800 will show worse blur because each pixel represents a smaller portion of the subject.
Hi everyone,
I recently placed my D800 order with BH Photo.
Does anyone have an idea of how long it might take until delivery?
Am I unrealistic to expect it before mid August?
Thanks,
Andrew
Andrew.It may take two months or more.Keeping the order try your luck with nikon store and local stores online.You may get lucky.If you get one earlier you can cancel your order at BHS.Nikon store has one or two available for people who keep checking there more often.I got mine from target 2 days after ordering it and so I canceled my Adorama order.all the best. Again do not get disappointed if you cannot get one from nikon store in the first attempt.Keep trying.You have a great chance to get one.
Thanks George,
I’ve thought of that but as I’m not base din the US, any online order charges my card immediately – not on dispatch of the order. So having more than 1 order placed gets pretty expensive….
Thanks for the reply.
Try Samy’s camera…I waited for 2 months at Beach Camera and nothing. When I placed the order with Samy’s Camera they sent notice it was shipping in 2 days! I also got my 28mm 1.8G which nobody had at the time from them…also boxes are brand new with no signs of store demo etc. They have been the best for me…
I very recently received the new Nikon 24-85mm VRII lens that I am now testing on my D800. I am very happy to report that this lens is very, very good with this camera.
I tested this lens against the Nikon 14-24,and 24mmF2.8 at 24mm focal length from f4 through f16. This lens was the equal of the 14-24 and generally better than the 24mm F2.8 in sharpness at all these apertures.
I also tested this lens against the 50mm f1.8 at the 50mm focal length. By f5.6 both lenses were equally sharp in the center. By f8 the corner sharpness became almost identical as well, though with a slight nod to the fixed 50mm lens for sharpness and contrast.
My last test was at 70mm focal length against the Nikon 70-200 F2.8. At F4 the 70-200 easily was superior, but by f8 the 24-85 caught up in the center (but not in the corners).
Of course I did not get this lens to compete against the 70-200 but for the wide angle performance. I think Nikon has a real winner here. My guess is this lens will be preferred over the Nikon 24-70 f2.8 because it is much lighter, has VR, and costs much less.
How does the Nikon Nikkor Wide-angle lens – 20 mm – F/2.8 – Nikon F lens stand up next the Nikon 17-35 2.8. I know it’s a no brainer as far as cost.. the 17-35 should be much better but I need a wide and have limited funds. I have the 17-35mm but I could sell it if the 20mm I have would suffice.
I have both and never use the 20. The other option is the 16-35, and if you like wide the 14-24. I think that for the money, the 16-35 is the best buy.
I was just told by one of my photographer friends that the wide format printers made by Epson such as the 7890 that he prints with were not capable of printing such a high resolution as the D800. Any thoughts on this matter? Seems from your review you think such wide format printers will be able to.
Simple answer: As you print larger copies, more your camera’s pixels are mapped.
A printer’s resolution/sq. inch remains constant, of course, therefore any printer will ultimately outstrip the 800′s (or any sensor’s) resolution.
So, full-resolution d800 postage stamps not good, full res 24×36 very good.
My 7900 is very happy dealing with those troublesome 800 files, especially when used with Qimage.
Hope this helps.
Why do I spot typos the minute after submitting a commmment?
Thanks Donn, So, what you are saying is, a 1″x1″ print versus a 24″x36″ tries to put more pixels into each print and therefore the smaller size print just has too many pixels to make a clear print? How about if I wanted to print 5″x7″ prints? This sounds like the larger print I make the better it will appear using the D800 – up to a point.
In fact, I have been considering the 7900 printer, thanks.
And, when you get as old as me we call it a senior moment when we miss something like a typo. Happens all the time.
Well duh, the D800 will allow a 5″x7″ cropped photo to print very well. I finally get it. For that matter a cropped 1″x1″ would do very well, too. You just cannot cram all that data from a full frame into a stamp sized print. The larger sensor and pixel count make for much more data to print much larger photos. I got that. Just didn’t understand the printer’s end of it when I was told, in error I believe, that the printer would not use all the data provided by the D800 sensor. Thank you, thank you, Donn
I know this maybe a strange question seeing they are different cameras, but do the lenses I have for my Nikon D90 fit the D800? As i can’t afford to do both camera and lens change.
Alll of your D90 lenses will work on the D800, but… If you have DX lenses, they cannot fill the full D800 frame. If you were to use DX lenses on your D800, you would get an image that is comparable to that of a D7000. The d800 can recognize DX lenses and cop automatically. Alternatively, you can disable auto DX crop mode and shoot full frame with the DX lens which will give you significant vinetting in most cases, but a center area that is comaprable to a DX frame. With a DX lens, the D800 performs like a 16mp DX camera.
i am almost ready to shift from canon 40d + ef 24-70 f2.8 + 70-200 f2.8 IS to nikon d800
but, as its only my hobby and passion and as i am not rich, cant afford all great lens
will buy af 50 f1.4 d
af 80-200 f2.8 d
my question
can af 80-200 can resolve enough details for this great 36 mp?
is d800′s af motor is similar like d700′s( heard that d700 af motor is powerfull)
help me to make a decision
The D800′s AF motor is powerful enough to drive the 80-200. The 80-200 is a phenomenal lens for the price and has great optics and should work well with the D800. These are both excellent lenses and shoul work well with the D800. … Be sure to tune the autofocus for both lenses in order to obtain the best results. It can make a huge difference.
Thanks a lot
Those words give me confidence to go forward
will buy mine as soon as i found a right buyer for my gears
will update my experience
thanks a lot
Hello Nasim,
In the internet I read a lot of horror stories about taking sharp handheld shots with the D800. Last week I received my D800 and If I watch the results very critically I found to get really perfect sharp images is not that easy.
I read in forums that the shuttertimes should be 2 or 3 times faster than with a 12 megapixel camera. It gives me a good motivation to improve my shooting technique but my question is: if I downsample to 12 megapixels is shooting technique and shuttertime comparable with a 12 megapixelcamera? Is a 24-120mm F4 VR lens preferrable above my 24-70mm nikkor because of its VR?
Greetings Max .
Hi Nasim,
thank you for your excellent scientific review!!!
I still have one question about DX mode. I will leave with my D800 to a wildlife safari in South Africa in a few weeks, and I am wondering if shooting in DX mode would have the advantage of better focusing capabilities for distant subjects (who might be too small to focus on in FX mode). Apart from all the advantages shooting in FX, do you see situations like the one i described, in which shooting DX might be the better option???
Thanks in advance for your answer,
Dirk
Dr Dee,
DX mode makes no difference to AF whatsoever. All “DX mode” does is cuts off the edges of the frame, effectively reducing it to DX coverage. In the viewfinder you get some lines showing where it is cut off (roughly around the edges of the AF points). The viewfinder still looks identical and covers the FX frame, but you have guidelines to let you know the area captured in DX mode.
DX mode doesn’t ACTUALLY make subjects closer, so any subject in the viewfinder will be exactly the same size regardless of what crop mode you are in. And your subject will still have the same number of AF points covering it.
The only real reason to shoot in DX is if you KNOW you will be cropping images later. Otherwise, you may as well shoot FX and just crop to taste later on. There’s also 6fps in DX mode if you use a grip, but FX is always 4fps.
Ahh, I see, thx for the explanation. I thought you would “see” the DX crop as some kind of zoom. Thanks again.
How do I post a picture here?
I have the D800 for about 5 weeks. I’ve used it to shoot two weddings and 5 or 6 portrait sessions. So far I love it! I use a mono pod at times but was hand held or most of the wedding images and find them to be equal or superior to my D300s and my partner’s Canon 5D’s. I love the images I’ve gotten with it so. I shoot on “M” only and I pay close attention to my settings to try and avoid to much post production. One problem I had during a portrait session; the camera locked up and wouldn’t let me shoot. I tried changing lenses but it didn’t work until I changed the battery out which had 75% charge left. I googled this issue and it seems that the D700 and other camera’s also have this issue from time to time. I guess I should call Nikon and see if there is a firmware upgrade for this issue.
I did my own review of the d800 here:
http://www.frescoglobe.com/2012/07/16/nikon-d800-hands-on-review/
Absolutely amazing camera, and I only have a few minor complaints. It’s also amazing how confused the d800 has made some people – I’ve never seen so many questions about DX mode or shutter speed before about any camera.
Hi Nasim,
Could you verify if I have got my facts correct here.
The old Circle of Confusion used in Hyperfocal tables is way out of date when you
consider hi res cameras like the D800.
I once read that the Circle of Confusion should be twice the size of the sensor pixels
which in the case of the D800 is 4.7microns x 2 equalling a COC of 10 microns for the sharpest images possible.
Using this value really downgrades the DOF for landscape uses,perhaps we have to accept this if we want the highet resolution from this superb camera?
Regards
Michael
Hi Michael
May I point out the obvious, have you ever heard of Medium Format cameras? Some of them have even higher resolution than D800/E and most certainly are used for landscape and nature use.
Look up Jim Brandenburg on youtube.com and there are interviews with him.
Also, the use of wide angle lenses available and learning how to use them or even better, looking for opportunities to use them, these are DOF even at mid apertures and plenty of sharpness – and get lots of foreground sharp. Try 16-35mm VR.
So there really is no need to be negative about the D800/E, but rather this is great challenge that may well lead to better and more interesting results. In order to find the sharpest apertures with wide angle lenses, you may need to use higher shutter speeds, not necessarily a bad thing, in fact a good thing. Or you may not have used ND filters that prevents smaller and less sharp apertures, then here opens up trying new techniques.
Photography is about being creative, and the D800/E is just about the most creative camera around right now.
Cheers, Joe
Mr. Mansurov,
I just finished reading your 8/1/12 e-mail about your D800 problems. After sending back your D800, you said you were now going to use your D7000 again. In previous articles you talked about you and Mrs. Mansurov using Nikon D700 cameras, especially when covering weddings. Why don’t you just use your D700’s for the time being. I only ask because I just ordered a D700 from B&H and hope there is nothing wrong with the recent batch of D700’s coming out of Japan. Nikon’s problems seem to coincide with the tsunami disaster that happened in close proximity to their plant in Japan. I don’t have the knowledge to extensively test my D700 when it arrives. I bought the D700, as I do the rest of my equipment, after consulting with your well written product reviews. Thank you for your help and thank you for your website. It’s the only one I bother to read.
John Adams
John, as I indicated in my email to you, the post was published by our contributor Bob Vishneski, not me. Neither Lola nor I use any DX cameras. We continue to use the Nikon D700 for our photography and it is still one of our favorite cameras, despite its age.
@John Adams. I have the Nikon D700 and I love it. I have had it for over 3 years and it is an awesome camera. Of course having fast lenses added into the mix makes it even better. The D700 does more than I ever knew. I have no complaints about this camera, only high reviews. As for your question why Mr. Mansurov does not use the D700 and uses the D7000 I am not sure. D700 is full frame and I am sure the D7000 is a crop sensor. I am actually thinking of purchasing a Nikon crop sensor camera and then using my Nikkor lenses on that which will make the telephoto go further. Hopefully Nikon’s standards stay high especially in this economy. Natural disasters take a toll on companies yet I would rather wait for a high quality Nikon product then one that doesn’t meet their usual high standards.
I had the opportunity to compare the D800 and the D800E for a few days as I had ordered both when they were first announced. In all cases I could not tell the difference IQ between the two. This was done using the following Nikkor lenses 70-200 f2.8, 50mm f1.8, 24-85 VR, and the 14 to 24 f2.8. My tests involved actual field conditions rather than lab conditions that one can find on-line.
I find it difficult enough just to get the most out of the vastly increased pixel count of the D800 over such cameras as the D700. The slight difference in having or not having an AA filter is just not relevant to me at this time. I sent back the D800E but that choice was mostly based on the fact that I could not return the D800 as I had been using it long enough that returning for a full refund was not possible. Had it been the other way around I would have kept the D800E. There just is not that much difference between the two. It is the 36mp that make the real difference!
Maybe when my technique in the field gets better over the coming year will I be able to appreciate the subtle differences between these two models.
Hi,
Did I just read that you (Mr. Mansurov) returned the D800?
Josie, no, I love mine too much to return it. Bob (our contributor) returned it for a new and hopefully better unit…
I am so glad to hear that. I love mine too. I upgraded from the D300 and D300s. I couldn’t afford the D700 which I wanted for so long and just when the D800 came out I had a rare opportunity to upgrade. I thought about whether I should go for the D800 or D700 which was lowered in price but I wanted the newest technology. Thanks for you comments, they help a lot!
I bought one of the second batch of 800Es to come to the UK. Received 1st June. I have tried Thom Hogans test & cannot see any problem with the focus. Is there an easier way to test than this please as none of my test pice viewed at 100% are pin sharp? I love your site thanks so very much.
Dear Nasim,
I have a D800E received by me in UK 1st June. Main dealer so meant for UK market. I have done several tests as an amateur trying to do a setup following Thom Hogan’s plan. The real question I have is why are the pics I take always without exception far clearer in live mode than through the traditional eye viewfinder? I do not remember reading this in your review and I know I would have remembered. I set up a second time & have found the left focus not to be as clear as centre and a little better than the right. The centre is spot on and crisp as I think it all ought to be.
Dear Nasim,
To answer some of my own queries in part. I did my tests with 3 different lenses. 50mm 1.4., 60mm 2.8 micro, & 85mm 1.4. So all new decent lenses. As I did my initial tests with the 50mm lens this was where I had the most problems.
I am now wondering if the 50mm is not as good a sample as it should be but I do not know anyone who has another sample to test with.
I used the black horizontal variable height strips test ‘card’
Comments and help from you would be ever so helpful please Nasim….thanks
Hey I have a question to anyone but directed to nasim. When taking photos in fx mode with the d800 in medium or small picture mode will the high ISO performance be better than the full large size? This is for those like myself who would not use all the 36 mp’s but rather smaller files. So will choosing smaller sizes in camera in fx or dx mode give better iso results or for the best results will we need to take 36mp shots and down sample everything?
Great review, I want but I also want the D4 the image quality sounds very appealing but I worry about the battery life and fps, I normally shoot weddings but some also some sports events.
Thing is both cameras look great, but I can only afford one of them until i win the lottery.
Hai nasim
Can u share ur views about the comment of Kenrockwel about Nikon D800, as he is a ‘ notorious’ canon fan and user,, found just hate d800 and well love his canon 5D mark III??
I do believe that , this question is there in many peoples mind whom are ready buy buy a nikon D800
Hai nasim
Can u share ur views about the comment of Kenrockwel about Nikon D800, as he is a ‘ notorious’ Nikon fan and user,, found just hate d800 and well love his canon 5D mark III??
I do believe that , this question is there in many peoples mind whom are ready buy buy a nikon D800
I have some knowledge concerning your question about the D800 vs. the Canon 5D mark III. I have been a reader of Ken Rockwell for a number of years but lately have moved to other sites such as this one to obtain better insights. Rockwell does not really know who his audience is, and though, can have useful knowledge to share, he often contradicts himself.
I now have had the D800 for a few months and have used it, along with some excellent Nikon lenses (70-200, 14-24, 300 F2.8) on three continents. If you already own some of Nikon’s best lenses then the D800 is your choice. If you do not own quality lenses then I do question whether either you are ready for either of these cameras.
Using such high resolution cameras requires a good knowledge of the principles of photography, and real experience with previous DLSR’s. I love the D800 as it really challenges me as a photographer. If I had good Canon lenses I am sure I would be happy with the Canon 5D mark III.
Rockwell’s comments mostly deal with the ergonomics and not the specs of these two cameras. I do understand what he is talking about here. For instance, the D800 does not store your camera settings in any easy fashion, (the D7000 does!), nor does some of the button placements make sense to me. But it takes fantastic photos. I just learn to live with the shortcomings I noted.
Again, please note that with cameras of this quality, you need the best lenses, good technique, and the desire to carry such big equipment with you on most outings and trips.
Thanks
My first camera was a Sony H50- A DSLR looking Super zoom( at that time of course -15X)
A nikon D90+ 18-105 was my first DSLR
Later I moved to Canon 40D + Canon EF 24-70 F2.8 L + Canon EF 70-200 F2.8 IS USM
I mainly moved to canon due to the Red ringed L and white lens fantasy, But was never happy with canon colours may be due to the hangover from Great Nikon D90
So the moment Nikon announce their D800 decide to go back.
sold all my canon gears and waiting for my order to fulfill.
But it will take little more time, also nikon India increased the prize of nikon D800 to almost 15%
meanwhile i read ken’s review and shocked!
Hi everyone,
Can anyone who has recently received their D800 from BH Photo let me know when they originally placed their order? I’m trying to gauge how long until my order is fulfilled.
Thanks,
Andrew
Thank you for your detailed review. I want to help you estimate have gone astray and 5Dmk3.
Hi Everyone,
I have been thinking about upgrading to a D800 ever since it was released but I am always hesitant buy new technical items directly when they are released. Boring but in this case it might have payed off to wait.. I wonder if anybody knows if there still are shipped cameras with the AF issue or the new ones going out are OK?
I must say I am very glad I found this site! Always looking forward to the new articles you publish here!
Best regards,
Conny
Hello Nasrim,
Great reviews and your tips are always useful. You write a lot about downsizing images to 24mp or even lower. In te article about downsizing I do just find how to prepare images for the web. Should I downsize the same way in Lightroom but settings on max.filesize?
Thank you for your reply or tips.
Vic
Same question.
For flexibility 36 megapixels is nice as a starting point. For general use something like 10 megapixiels is more than enough. I would like to downsample most pictures of the d800 as a routine but keep enough quality for A3 prints. Wich downsample settings are recommended and what is the best way?
Прочитав ваш обзор обнаружил что функция time lapse photography в D800 отсутствует.
http://www.learningdslrvideo.com/nikon-d800-timelapse-tutorial/
Dear Nazim,
I would very approciate your opinion about the following thought.
Does it worth to exchange one of 2 D3S I own with one D800e? i would like to use it for landscape, macro and bird photography (for better cropping and usefulness for 200-400+tc20E compo)
I usually print my pictures on A4 format.
best regards,
Nikos
My Mac is a 2008 model with 2 x 2.8 GHz Quad-Core Intel Xeon. It has 8 GB of RAM. My camera is the Nikon D700 and I’d like to purchase the D800 when the focus issues seem fixed. My computer is already slow. If I add RAM will I have enough computing power? Your advice is much appreciated!
I have the D800 and a newer Mac than yours (2011). Upgraded to 12 gb of ram. That helped but I do notice the longer times the computer takes when working with such large files. It will take time for technology to catch up with the D800 but of course it will happen. We live in a time where computers get obsoleted every 5 years and you are just about there.
8GB RAM is plenty enough. Upgrade your HDD to SSD. Everything you do will become almost instantaneous.
I have had my D800 for a few weeks now and am completely blown away by it. I’m now selling all my Hasselblad and Linhof kit – goodbye film, hello high quality digital :-)
Which reminds me that I’m surprised how many comments I see about the D800 that you don’t need all those megapixels all the time. True, and you don’t have to use them all the time. The D800 is three cameras in one: 9 MP, 20 MP and 36 MP. It’s like having a 35mm, a medium format and a 4×5″ camera all in one.
But you can’t do that in RAW I hear you say. True, but do you really need RAW for other than the highest quality anyway? I’m very happy with fine JPEGs straight out of the camera for all three resolutions and only use raw for my most crirical work.
I agree.
Ahh.. I’m in Australia but was born in DK, your name sounds almost homely to me.
I have had the D800E (no good for video and don’t care) for three months, and what you say tally up very nicely with my experience. Even shooting Surfers ans sports at 5fps and DX 15MP is still pretty good if you set up the camera right. Fantastic DX camera too. It does everything.
I had a laugh when one Australian photography magazine rushed out a “review’ (when it wasn’t) prematurely and said in big type “The D800 Isn’t intended to rival Medium Format” – when that is EXACTLY what it was meant to, and that is clear from interviews with Jim Brandenburg and Nikon’s intentions when they were communicating with him also also JB’s conclusion agreed “this camera is a game changer for me.”
The D800/E… IS a game changer. In my fourty+ years of taking photos as a teenager, this is the camera I wished I always had.
It has also shown up the MF manufacturers have been caught out… sleeping. Charging big bucks and sitting pretty… and got lazy.
Cheers.
Hi Hoeras
Yes, I’m from Denmark but have lived in the UK half my life, so I’ve become some kind of hybrid.
I agree about medium format, although some of those (Hasselblad’s 50 and 60 MP backs, for instance) have even higher resolution – although not necessarily better quality, judging from the comparisons I have seen. The D800 beats even the most expensive Hasselblad hands down on shadow detail and hi ISO performance.
But rare and expensive cameras have something which has always been and remains important for a professional photographer (I was one myself for 15 years): they have customer credence (or snob value if you will). You cannot demand a professsional fee from a client if you use the same kit the boss just gave to his 15 year old brat. And even if that wasn’t a D800 but a D3100, the customer thinks of it in the same terms: toys. That’s why there is still a market for cameras with names, prices and features that are out of reach of all but those who make their living from them.
Fortunately I drifted away from photography as a profession (and into IT, as I find many photographers doing) and can now just satisfy myself. And the D800 is the most satisfying camera I have ever worked with. But I’m no doubt on a slippery slope and will have to get the 54 MP D900 when that comes out, then the 72 MP D1000 and so on in perpituity ;-)
Cheers,
Ole
I have had my D800 for a few weeks now and am completely blown away by it. I’m now selling all my Hasselblad and Linhof kit – goodbye film, hello high quality digital :-)
Which reminds me that I’m surprised how many comments I see about the D800 that you don’t need all those megapixels all the time. True, and you don’t have to use them all the time. The D800 is three cameras in one: 9 MP, 20 MP and 36 MP. It’s like having a 35mm, a medium format and a 4×5″ camera all in one.
But you can’t do that in RAW I hear you say. Also true, but do you really need RAW for other than the highest quality anyway? I’m very happy with fine JPEGs straight out of the camera for all three resolutions and only use raw for my most crirical work.
This may have been brought up before but I have a Nikon D700 which I have been extremely happy with. I started off only doing portraits, events, macro, architecture so it was perfect. Now I am getting more into equestrian events and photographing horses and some sports. A few photographers have told me I would be better off purchasing (adding to my D700) a crop sensor camera for my “action photographs” and I do notice my camera seems slow shooting action plus I get more blurry shots than most. So is it just me messing up or should I look at getting another camera to add to my D700?
Hi Susan,
I do not know what lenses you have but if you are shooting sports you will need some of the better glass Nikon has out there (70-200 f2.8 etc.). The problem with the D700 is pixel density. The crop of cameras Nikon is now offering have much greater pixel density. Higher density means more resolution from your lenses if they are of good quality. I have the D800 and the D7000. Both these cameras have the same pixel density which is three times that of the D700. As to blurry shots, I think you will need practice as the D700 you own is not the problem here.
Having used the D700 for three years and the D800 since 3 months I can confidently say that holding the camera steady or using a higher shutter speed is with the D800 essential for pixel perfect sharpness. The camera is under good conditions unusually rewarding but when motion is detectable it disappoints sooner than a D700.
When in less desirable light situations I have started to use a monopod and sometimes select auto ISO with a safe minimum shutter speed, the results are generally very good.
The biggest ‘problem’ is that the Nikkor standard length lenses are (still) without VR.
But once you realise the potential of this camera there is no way back :)
If a 36 MP image disappoints sooner than a 12 MP one it’s because of the higher magnification when viewed at 1:1. I find 36 MP D800 shots matching 4×5″ film scans, and not many people shoot 4×5″ hand held. When you match your technique to the image size, there is no way the D800 disappoints :-)
Indeed, if used with care the D800 is unmatched :)
The word ‘disappoints’ was meant for the photographer, not the camera!
Other observations, in comparison with the D700 AF is noticeably faster and more accurate, auto exposure is the best I’ve ever seen.
Hi,
I just upgraded from D90 to a D800.
Could any one please advise on the optimum CF and SD cards to be used in order to capture 14bit RAW and Full HD video as well.
Planning to purchase 32 GB CF and SD cards for my D800.
Are Sandisk extreme 30mbps cards sufficient for the 14bit raw and full hd video recording as well ?
Thanks!!
My supplier, http://www.cameranu.nl, recommended the SanDisk Extreme 60MB/s, a Class 20 card and it can handle all operations. I assume when of the same class there is speed wise no difference between a CF and SD card.
Thanks Dirk for the info.
However there is no class 20 available in India. So i would go with class 10 extreme pro 60/90 mbps.
I purchased Lexar CF 1000X 64GB cards. Have also used Sandisk CF Extreme Pro 64GB cards (they are rated at 90 MB/s).
Faster cards help, especially with 14 bit NEF.
If you go the SD route, then Sandisk Extreme Pro SDHC UHS-I cards (32 or 64GB). These are rated at 95 MB/s (633X).
Thanks William.
Will get an extreme pro as suggested.
I want to share the latest updates from Nikon w/ fellow D800 owners and those thinking of getting one but stymie by the left AF problem.
* Nikon has acknowledged, found and understood the root cause of the issue. It has been eliminated in the current production
* The root cause is a misalignment of the AF module when mounted, outside of Nikon’s own production tolerances. But be asserted we are still talking micro meters here …
* The issue for affected D800 can be solved in selected Nikon service centers; such as Düsseldorf, Germany.
* The procedure is currently rolled out to more Nikon service centers.
* The fixing procedure for Nikon is a tedious one. It includes writing individual calibration values into the firmware. For larger deviations, the AF module will first mechanically be re-aligned. This may actually include the AF auxiliary mirror in some cases.
This method is believed to deliver an autofocus precision which is at least as good as of cameras from a fresh batch. I could not clarify if there is a chance for both methods being non-equivalent in some way. However, Nikon Germany does not think so. They rather wholeheartedly believe that the in-service calibration procedure resolves the issue as good as current production does, if not better.
Get more at http://nikonrumors.com/2012/09/25/update-on-the-nikon-d800-left-focusing-issue.aspx
Hi Nasim:
I finally got a D800 from B&H. With all the sophisticated setting of these camera, can you suggest a web site that walks you thru the set up process? I specially need help with the preferred settings. My prior camera is the D7000.
Your website and reviews are the best. Thank you for helping the amateurs like me.
Ken Rockwell did a pretty nice job summarizing the Nikon User Manual and added his own inputs/recommendation settings. Here is the link to the D800 User guide.
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d800/users-guide/index.htm
Enjoy!
Jason
Hi Henry.
I bought the D7000 autumn 2011 while I waited for the D700 replacement. (I was a Leica Digilux 3 user before that) Nikon brought out the D800E which I have had since June this year BUT thankfully just after I bought the D7000 I found Thom Hogan’s site. I bought the hardcopy D7000 book which is FANTASTIC with solid suggested settings for everything. I would really advise you to read that first. When I first got my D800E I used that book to help me as it is such a big leap to the D800E. I waited patently for him to produce a D800/E book which he has. It is enormous & I am about 2/3rds through it. Excellent. Far more helpful is my opinion than Ken Rockwell although I do not knock him at all.
Hi Henry.
I bought the D7000 autumn 2011 while I waited for the D700 replacement. (I was a Leica Digilux 3 user before that) Nikon brought out the D800E which I have had since June this year BUT thankfully just after I bought the D7000 I found Thom Hogan’s site. I bought the hardcopy D7000 book which is FANTASTIC with solid suggested settings for everything. I would really advise you to read that first. When I first got my D800E I used that book to help me as it is such a big leap to the D800E. I waited patently for him to produce a D800/E book which he has. It is enormous & I am about 2/3rds through it. Excellent. Far more helpful is my opinion than Ken Rockwell although I do not knock him at all. http://www.bythom.com/
Hi Henry,
I had forgotten to paste the address, the computer was so slow I pasted it it & hit post comment so it has gone twice.
Sorry,
Chris
Tanks Chris:
The learning curve appears to be a little long on D800. I just hope is not as long as the D7000.
Your timing with Tom Hogans book is perfect. I’ll download on iPad today and go for it.
The ultimate would be if Nasim wrote this type of books/manual, he is an excellent writer and a pleasure to read, ( and you actually learn without having to read 3 times), however, Tom Hogan is a good writer as well. So I will download today.
Thanks for the tip.
HP
great info here. thanks!
question. is it possible to program the priorities?
here is what I want….
1/ aperture as 1st priority. this means the camera sets the shutter. but…
2/ shutter as 2nd priority limited to a minimum. this means I can set the shutter speed to be no slower than say 1/80. then…
3/ ISO as 3rd priority limited to a maximum. this means I can set ISO to be no more than say 1200.
the result is my aperture is 2.8, my speed is 1/80, and the max ISO is 1200. if I still get underexposure reading, I forgo the shot.
can this be done?
Al, that’s what Auto ISO on the Nikon cameras is all about – that’s exactly what it does.
Hi Nazim. gee, thanks for the kind reply! for the D800 I tried, I couldn’t get the auto ISO to work as I hoped. I got lost in all the menus the camera has. I’ll try again. but, now with the D600 just out, I think I’ll try the 600 next. :-)
Killer review, love your page!
Hello Nassim, I do read carefully all that concerns Nikon gear. Would give me a clue about this : How does a 16-35mm F4 VR behave on a D800 ? I recall your 16-35 mm on a D700, and at the time I had a test on the french Magazine ” the word of photography” that shows some sweet spots of this lens on a D3x. Is it the same with the D800 ? ( sensor 3 times bigger than D700 ) Even if I know that the 14-24mm is “the great choice” – but weight, bulk,price…
Prior to get the 16-35mm lens and a D800e, I’d like to have your opinion and advice.
Many thanks for this exciting litterature…
All the best. Jacques
Jacques, the 16-35mm f/4 works very well with the D800, just like it did on the D700…
Help!
My Nikon D-800 has been malfunctioning. In a big way. On Manual exposure and also on aperture priority (but not on shutter priority) it jumps all over the place as if it were on bracketing. No bracketing settings are on and I did the two button “factory reset” several times to no avail. Have you guys heard from anyone else with this problem? I have a full weekend and no time to bring it to the retail store where I bought it untill Tuesday. Thank you. You are the only blog I’m subscribed to. I have back up cameras, of course, but don’t want to be without my 800.
Nasim, are Moires a serious problem with the D800 (without E)?
I was reading Thom Hogan’s review and he says that both models (with and without E) will produce moire and color artifacts. He also mentioned that he can not recommend the D800 for architectural because of the liability to produce moire…
I’m thinking about a buying a D800 or a D600 and I’m not very relaxed when it comes to moire (bad experiences with the D70). But as a D300 owner I’d prefer a D800 over a D600.
FWIW from me, Moire is presented for all cameras and lenses, not just D800. Moire presents itself under very limited conditions, much more for fabrics than architecture: 1/ must have an excellent lens and very high res sensor. 2/ lens must be in perfect focus. 3/ subject must have very fine repeating patterns, such as fabrics. 4/ patterns must align with sensor pixels and be of equal dot pitch. Knowing this, the solution is to overcome the condition, such as: change size of image (reposition camera, or zoom); tilt the camera slightly; stop down to invoke slight diffraction. I’ve heard a filter can reduce some moire, but I have not yet had this work for me (eg uv, polarizer). When I tried the D800, I got some moire, then used the techniques to eliminate it. It wasn’t a big deal for me, but I suppose moire could be a big deal for some.
What concerns me more about the D800 is: not much better dynamic range than other cameras, if at all better; fringing is present in high contrast areas. All digital sensors suffer these, but I was hoping the D800 would be a bigger improvement.
How can I view my Live View image on my iPad?
Can anyone answer this question?
I wish to be able to see the picture/video before I record. Also I wish to see the picture on iPad after i take the image… I was thinking a video cable would be the answer, however I did not have any luck.
Thanks
Hello I have uam camera nikon d80 also the perfect and the colors come out in color in automatic mode. I bought a D800 and I was disappointed with the pictures I took because the skin tone through this yellowish green. There is a color setting to let the natural skin tone?
Already thanks!
Hello Nassim,
Do you know if the problem with the AF has been fixed? Is it safe to buy the D8oo now?
Nasim, have you done an in depth comparison of the D800 v D800E? I can’t find it on your site. After shooting my Nikon D4 for a couple of months in weddings, sports, lowlight events , street, etc I just can’t seem to want to ever use my Nikon D7000 anymore. FX image quality is unreal compared to DX. I’m selling my D7000 and my only DX lens I had with it. I’m having a hard time deciding what camera to buy as my back up/second camera. I like to shoot landscape and street a lot..fine art etc. Pretty much I love to shoot anything even bugs and ants. D800 or D800E is the question.
Привет Насим! Что у меня очень часто стал Д800 в резкость не попадать. Что это значит? Прошил как купил летом сразу.
I had to send my D800 to the Nikon service after 8000 clicks. It was splitting oil all over the sensor. Two days after I got the camera back I again noticed oil drops on the sensor. The store that sold me the defective camera exchanged it with a new one. I am pretty happy now but I am taking control shots at f22 regularly now. I am just afraid this can happen again. The serial numbers of the two cameras are not too far apart.
Open question to anyone:
Have anyone used the Nikon 70-200 f/2.8 VR II with the TC-17 on the D800? I am interested in focus speed and accuracy with this combo. Particularly in poor light (shutter speed of 1/1,250 or higher, f/5.6 and ISOs of 1,600 thru 5,000). Reason for fast shutter speed is stopping action, so can not go slower that 1/1,250.
Thank you,
WEJ
Hi William,
I think I can answer your question as I have used various TC’s on the 70-200 F2.8 and have just returned from South Africa where I used the TC-20E111 extensively with both a D800 and D600.
Last winter I rented all three TC’s to see which would work best for me (wildlife photography). The TC-14 just did not provide enough extra reach, the TC-17 was better but I finally settled on the TC-20E111 as the best choice or my application. As far as focusing it is of course slower but it does work reliably and seldom if ever “hunts” when I use the center focus point of the two cameras.
When on Safari I set my cameras for ISO 3200 maximum. If lighting conditions are really marginal then I forget using the TC-20E111 and instead take advantage of the F2.8 that these lenses offer.
I also had with me the Nikon 300mm F2.8 which I also used with the TC-20E111. What I found is that there are limitations beyond just focus speed and accuracy that need be considered.
At 400 to 600mm you will find that there is very little DOF especially for small objects that are just 20 to 30′ away. At further distances atmospheric conditions can often soften the image and thus take away the advantage of the tele-converter. Your shutter speed needs to be higher often making the camera increase the ISO. Above 1600 that will degrade the resolution you might otherwise get.
To the above you must add the fact that you lose 2 f-stops, and wide open there is additional softness of tele-converters with any lens.
I do love my TC-20E111 but I do think I expect more from it than is sometimes possible. That being said, I have gotten some great shots that otherwise would not have been possible.
The D800 has such high resolution that you can extensively crop the photo and still have a good image. I have cropped down to 4mp from 36mp which is the equivalent of 3 times more zoom. (my 600m becomes 1800mm).
I never use a tripod or mono-pod and seldom a bean bag. Things in the wild just happen too fast to have my equipment tied down. But through practice I seldom have problems with camera shake showing up. (bear in mind that all my lenses VR!).
I may purchase the TC-14 for my 300mm F2.8 as the TC-20E111 may be overkill for this lens.
If I had to travel light it would be with the 70-200 and the TC-20E111. The 300mm F2.8 is great but it is a beast to lug and hold.
My advice is to practice on moving birds with your combo. I was lousy at first but practice really improved my success rate.
I hope this helps.
Thanks for the detailed reply. I normally shoot horse polo, and the horses spend a lot of time far away from me. Since Nikon has yet to make an updated 80-400 (my preferred lens on my D3X), and since the current 80-400 is too slow (being AF, not AF-S) on the D800, I am trying to shoot with two cameras. A polo field is 165 yards wide, so a lot of my shots are at a distance of over 200 yards. For near stuff, I use a smaller lens. The 70-200 with TC-17 is an effective 119-340. This would give me a decent zoom range (not as much as I would like, but decent). I am afraid that with the TC-20, the focus speed would be too slow for the action. Having lived in Africa (many years ago), I am aware of the conditions in which you probably had to shoot. How did you find the response time of the 70-200 + TC-20 for animal action?
Thanks,
WEJ
Hi William,
The response time was adequate for most animal shots, but the 300mm f2.8 is lighting fast for fast moving objects like running Zebras etc. Since you have the D3x you already have the ability to use that extra resolution to give you more detail on long telephoto shots.
Although the 300mm is fast focus, the weight makes it slow when having to move the whole camera/ lens mechanism. Often I appreciated the much less weight of the 70-200 lens. We were mostly in the Kruger, driving our own vehicle. This was my fourth trip but my first with FX equipment. The trips before where the D7000 and the D300.
The differences between the D600 and D800 were not that much. One objection of the D800 is the mirror/shutter noise. The zebras hear it and move their heads before the shot is taken! So do some of the birds. Both these cameras are leaps above the D700 Fx but I am not convinced that the D800 is any better for wildlife photography over the D600. Both have excellent Quality at higher ISO’s. It is so nice not to have to really worry about whether the shot was at 20o or 400 or 800 ISO. There is just not that much difference. Better to keep the shutter speed up.
I will not likely get any lens larger than the 300mm F2.8. Size, weight and cost just become too much for me. i can take the 70-200 anywhere but not its big brother. It is also rather conspicuous to animals and humans alike.
Where in Africa did you live?
We lived in the Durban area for about 1.5 years, then in Rhodesia, near Salisbury, for another .5 year. Spent some time in the Natal and Kruger parks.
Hi Nasim,
I would appreciate a little advice on the subject of pre sharpening D800 raw files, preferably using Capture NX2 without introducing halos or other artifacts when the images are viewed at pixel level.
Having tried the in-camera sharpening I find that even with a value of 2 you can see a fine halo line when you have a dark object against a blue sky.
Regards
Michael
Michael, I apologize for a late reply. When shooting RAW, none of the camera settings like sharpening make any difference. Color settings, white balance, sharpening, vignetting and CA removal are all for JPEG files only. So there is no need to pre-sharpen anything!
The only sharpening that truly matters is after you import the images and work on them in Lightroom/Capture NX/Photoshop. And you should always sharpen images AFTER you down sample them. See my Lightroom sharpening article and if you browse through the post-processing page, you will find a similar article for Photoshop.
Hope this helps!
Nasim, while the sharpening makes no difference to the final RAW image, it actually makes a huge difference on the back LCD screen when taking the pictures. Setting a sharp high level will allow you to see if your images are sharp while taking them. It will ofcourse make no difference once they reach your image processing software (unless it’s Nikon’s ViewNX 2 or CaptureNX 2).
See info here: http://www.luminescentphoto.com/blog/2012/06/29/get-sharp-with-the-nikon-d800/
Thanks.
Hi Nasim,
I think I may not have made my question as clear as it ought to be.
My D800, like all digital cameras loses some sharpness due to the antialiasing filter.
I always shoot Raw and process in capture NX2
My question is: In your opinion, which is the best method in Capture NX2 to apply presharpening to these raw files in order to regain the lost sharpness without introducing any halos.
I have tried the in camera sharpening but it introduces halos, a friend suggested Niks presharpener pro 3.0 or the use of a HiPass filter with a radius of 1.1 on the luminance channel only, using the Overlay blend mode. The Opacity could be left at 100% and then faded back to reduce the effect if required.
Hope this makes my request a bit clearer as I certainly respect your opinion.
Regards
Michael
Hi Nasim,
I realise this posts dried up a little with all the later topics emerging but I would greatly appreciate your views on my D800 presharpening posting of the 16 November.
I can appreciate how busy you must be and the difficulties answering all our questions, so when and if you have a spare moment.
Regards
Michael
Hi thanks for the great review, I just sold off all my Canon gear, 5D III and L glass and am switching to Nikon, I really liked the 5D III but as far as features go well nothing compared to Nikon for gods sake for 3,500.00 canon gives us a piece of cr@p rubber piece to close our viewfinder (now I know to some they will say big deal but for me it is), I am getting the D800 70-200 2.8 VR II and 16-35 f4 VR II, 105 f2.8 VR, now what I want to know is I am thinking of buying the 24-70 but I do like VR since I also shoot weddings, and the EF 24-105 I used was great with IS, I got shots I would of never got with the 24-70 (for static subjects) will the 24-120 f4 VR work good with the D800? thanks for your help take care
Chris;)
Chris K.
I think you are going in the right direction. I hope you are prepare for the huge jump in picture quality.
Canon was never really for me, I could never get crisp sharp accurate pictures and the controls were never in the right spot; Nikon has more features— the flash, for example, on the D800 is very handy and does a great job.
Canon needs to learn about camera flash, I needed when least expected.
If budget is a concern, your getting to 10,ooo-12,000.
This year I was able to purchase my dream gear: Here is my list at under 8,000.
D800 – A most incredible machine… pictures will blow your mind.
16-35mm f4.0 VRll- a great lens for people and close-ups.
70-300mm f4.5 VR- good enough for me… I thought about the 70-200 f2.8, but i got sticker shock! The 70-300 is lighter and smaller, Great at rodeos, baseball games and animal portraits.
50mm f1.4g this is a sweetheart lens… incredible sharp and accurate
85mm f1.8g my portrait baby, but not in your face
24-120mm f4.0 VRll- my favorite walk around lens… I was caught by surprise at the quality and beauty of the pictures… if the light is present it shines; if the light is not present it does amazingly well; Lighter, VRll and smaller than 24-70mm.
SB-700 you gotta have at least one of these speedlites. It compliments all my lenses, in a subtle way.
Tamrac Velocity 7X- The D800, 16-35 and 50mm fit perfect; great @ mountain bike rides… Fantastic fall shots
Think Tank International travel case— all the toys in one safe carry-on suitcase, + my D7000.
Chris, I say you may not be prepared for the huge jump in quality, however the learning curve will be a matter of a week, tops. And you’ll never look back. It is a great experience to try all the tricks you read about, and get a full delivery of the effect from your gear. Enjoy!
Just thought you would like to know from a fellow Nikon owner.
Thanks for the help Henry, I will also be adding a SB-910 to that as I sold my 600 EX RT, I also think that I will option for the 24- 120 f4 VR II, now since I will be buying in Europe is there a serial number I should look out for? as I don’t want to have any left focus issues, I mean Nikon should be aware of this and should be fixed with there new shipments right? thanks again
Chris;)
Its hard to say what serial number to look for… I think the publicity alone forced Nikon to jump on the left focus issue. I was very concerned about it at the time of purchase, but I either lucked out or Nikon got it together. I do not see any left focus issues with my camera. Dont let this issue delay your endeavor… you have magnificent shots in the horizon, well worth the risk .
Europe prices seem to be higher than the USA… try Ukraine or the Check Republic. Avoid England for sure.
Good luck
Nasim,
I have just purchased a Nikon D800 and wanted some advice on getting a wide zoom and telephoto. Recently in the Amazon my Nikon D300 with 18-200 dx performed well but just lacked the range for a distance Jaguar shot. I was thinking about the 16-35 for the wide angle landscape shots and either the 70-200 f2.8 or f4 new version for a quality zoom. My interests are generally outdoor landscapes but also the ability to zoom in on wildlife. One other concern is that of “future proofing” and am not sure if the 16-35 or 70-200 f 2.8 are due to be updated any time soon so values will plummet?
Thanks for any helpful advice,
Julian
I am disappointed with the answer you gave Duwa on April 5. I sold my D7000 and 4 DX lenses waiting to buy a D600 until I realized the problem of dust on the sensor. I decided to save for a D800 while using my F100 with the 50 1.8D, 85 1.8D, Tokina 100 2.8 macro and bought a 20 2.8D that cost me nearly 600!
I’m going to have to limit myself to using only my F100 forever?
Please, respond.
What number. Cannot find Duwa April 5?
Sorry, the correct data is:
10) Duwa
March 30, 2012 at 8:02 pm
But the real cuestion is if my D lenses are innadecuate for the D800.
Hi Favio. There will be much more qualified people who could reply BUT my 2 penneth:-
I bought a D7000 a year ago (as I wanted to move from Leica (Digilux 3 ) system to Nikon), while I waited for a D700 replacement knowing it to be a very good camera at the level that would satisfy me but it was too long in the tooth. Knowing where I wanted to be it was easy for me to decide only to buy good FX glass. I bought, for example, an 85mm 1.4 & a 24-70. I did think my one indulgence would be a 24-120 f4 knowing it not to quite ‘up there’.
I bought an 800E as soon as & didn’t try the 24-120 immediately. By that time I had read a lot & knew the 800 would not be happy with ‘lesser’ glass. When I did try it I was very pleasantly surprised so I use it as my general purpose lens quite often.
What has all this to do with your glass you ask. I say try it and if you are happy you have saved a lot but do try to beg, borrow or hire some top new glass & see if it is sufficiently ‘better’ for you to justify the cost.
I wish you well.
Just a musing: as a wedding photographer the D800 resolution is useful for me only for group shots and portraits. For all the candids the D3 is perfect in speed and resolution, albeit 5 years old now.
How hard would it be to do the following in the D800
1. Add custom functions like canons c1, c2, c3 etc, but not via a on camera dial but in the firmware itself so it is selectable in the same way we do A,S,M,P. just add on 3, 5, 10 whatever number of settings. There is no limit as it could be done in firmware. Totally dump the clumsy bank system as they are horrible and poorly documented.
2. This camera is begging for mRAW and sRAW settings like on the 5Ds as candids do not need 36mpixel.
Posting here only to get it off my cheats, as there seems no way to send feed back to Nikons engineering team in Japan.
Damn you auto correct. Off my CHEST :)
An odd (perhaps) request:
If possible, would like a high ISO comparison done where the scene is shot in ISO 1600, however proper exposure would have been ISO 3200. Develop and push to 3200 (use Photoshop, Lightroom, DxO or whatever program can do with. I know DxO can push up to 4 stops). Then shoot the same scene at proper ISO (3200) and compare the pushed result to the proper exposure. Which looks better, or is there no apparent difference? Then repeat but push two stops. If possible do this for several starting ISOs (3200 and 6400 at least. Could even try a three or four stop push.). Would be interesting to see the results of this with other current released cameras (D600, D4, plus some of the Canon models). All original shots should of course be in NEF or RAW.
I think it would be an interesting article. Don’t know what other readers think of such an experiment.
Thanks,
WEJ
I bought this camera this month. And I am extremely happy that I got this. It fits very well in the hands. And the image details are unbelievable.
I posted my D800 configuration, including a file you can download to quickly configure your memory banks here: http://photokaz.com/2013/02/nikon-d800-and-d800e-setup-and-configuration/
Maybe someone will find it useful.
what setting would you use for landscape/nature (non-hdr) ?
thanks,
Tim
Most of my HDR shots are landscape, so I would just turn of the bracketing and shoot that way. As for nature, it depends. If the animals are moving, I would use the action settings. For things not moving around much, maybe portrait.
I am considering to buy the D800, however, I just found out that there is an auto-focus (AF) issue chatting around the web.
I am not a pro cameramen. Is the AF issue real or has it been solved?
Great review Nasim! I own the D700 and want to purchase the D800 for my favorite pursuits, studio photography, night photography and macro photography. Should I be concerned about the web chatter around D800 macro shooters fearing diffraction after F/8-F11? Often to get good DOF macro shooters will go to F/16-20 to capture the details of the scene; (bugs,flower details). Is this a real issue or is the web feedback missing the point?
did anyone ever answer this question wendell?
Hello Tony, thank you for following up to see if my question was addressed. No, no one has answered the concerns about shooting with the D800 for macro photography.
WR
I’m needing to purchase a NEW NIKON, replacing my NIKON D-90! I like taking landscape & portraits & some of my grandchildren in action. I like the reviews of the D800, but the fps (4,6 fps) are not as fast as the NEW Nikon D7100? So, I’m confused on which to buy? I just want a good Nikon with excellent quality!
I’m undecided on which NIKON I should buy? I’m thinkin of these:
Nikon D800
NIKON D7100
NIKON D300S
If I purchase the NIKON 800, Will this be a good camera for taking pictures of wildlife, birds in flight, & some action, like my grandchildren in baseball etc? And portraits, as well as FAMILY portraits?
I have not shot with the D71oo (has anybody received one yet?) or the D300S. I have used a D800E for various sports: Highschool Baseball, Basketball, Soccer, Softball, Tennis, + Horse Polo. The frame rate is slower than I would like, however the ability to crop helps when using a shorter lens. Price a 400 lens, then price the 300 f/4. Shoot the 300 f/4 on a D800, and you can crop in post, or even in camera (1:2 or DX mode), and get “apparent” similar range as using the 400. Unless you plan to print VERY large prints, not a problem.
That being said, the focus speed on the D3 series of cameras will still be the fastest (based on my personal experiences with a D3X and D3S), because of the larger battery size (I believe). Used versions of these are available for reasonable prices.
I have shot a few birds in flight with the D800E, however they were just quick snaps taken with a short lens (sea gulls and such at the beach, shot with a 50 f/1.8G lens which I was using for landscape shots). The quality was good, however the final size was small because of the short lens.
Portrait shots are no problem with the D800. Hope this helps you some.
WEJ
i can finally afford the d800 after having a d90(a good camera in my sense) after some years..an eye-opening review..thanks Nasim..
Hi. Jeff here. I am a huge fan of your website. I just bought a d800e off your advice. I need a new computer an was hoping you could look at these two macs I am thinking about and tell me if they will be plenty of computer. http://store.apple.com/us/browse/home/shop_mac/family/imac
There both i5 21.5 monitor but the 2.7 vs 2.9 difference. I was wondering if it’s worth it. I am bumping the ram to 16. Thanks for all the grea articles. Is there a better option for computer out there?
Jeff, If you are going to be doing serious work in “Photoshop” the clock speed and graphics card are the
most important assets. You should consider the I-Mac 27″ 3.2Ghz. It also has a better graphics card in addition to a larger screen.
1) How many more stops of shutter speed do you use with your D800s with lenses do not have VR?
2) Do you use higher shutter speeds even with lenses that have VR?
Interesting stuff. It’s good to see decent independent review. I didn’t really trust the DXO reviews in their entirety, but seeing the cameras perform side by side is rather interesting.
The D800 is one impressive camera it has to be said. On low contrast images there doesn’t appear to be much advantage, but on high contrast images it really shines…. Canon have some SERIOUS catching up to do….
I think I’d like to see both the 5D and D800 images both downsampled though, to say 12MP. It’s a little unfair on the 5D as everything is compared at its native resolution, where clearly it’s going to be at its worst.
I’d like to see another DR comparison, but let the camera handle the metering, just to see what the difference is. Although the speed and aperture settings are the same, ISO100 on one camera might not be the same as ISO100 on the other, so you will get a different exposure. Just food for thought, but I’m still expecting the Nikon to shine.
(I’m a pee’d off Canon shooter BTW….after going on honeymoon to a fantastic, and very sunny, location and not having much time, I’m a little annoyed about how much less DR Canons have).
Hi Nasim,
I’m using d700 now and thinking of upgrading to d800, mainly because d700 is considered a 5 year old technology. I’m shooting kids and weddings. And I shoot mostly at large aperture (f1.4 – f2.8). Will the upgrade be sensible in my case? Thx !!