The new Fujifilm X-T1 has been greeted with great enthusiasm. Based purely on specifications, the newer camera seems to be at the top in Japanese manufacturer’s line-up, at least until X-Pro2 comes along. In this article, I will compare the new X-T1 mirrorless camera from Fujifilm to Olympus’ top offering, the OM-D E-M1.
The Internet has been buzzing with details about the new Fujifilm X-T1 mirrorless camera, yet we are still excited to see it officially unveiled. Slotting between the flagship X-Pro1 (see our review) and the capable X-E2 (see our review), the new model takes a formerly vacant spot in the line-up of attractively designed, innovative cameras from the Japanese manufacturer. But it is not just the price tag of $1,299 that differentiates the X-T1 from its siblings. Its design and ergonomics also hint at, possibly, new priorities.
Hasselblad Lunar is a camera that many have heard about, many have seen images of, yet we never spoke about it here at Photography Life. We have not compared it to any other camera nor even let you know about the announcement as we usually do with high-end cameras. And the Lunar is indeed a high-end camera, a good one at that (if you choose to ignore one or two facts, more on which later). So… Why didn’t we ever mention it? I will be honest – we don’t like it all that much. No, that is kindly said. Actually, we think it is utterly, utterly pointless.
Yet here I am, writing about it. Why now? Well, there is a good reason to. In fact, I think this is the only reason to ever talk about the Lunar. The heading of this article should have given you a good idea on what I’m on about. You see, there is a good chance that the silliness is about to stop – Hasselblad has replaced its CEO (a while ago, actually) and announced a proper camera, the CMOS-sensored H5D-50c. So then, let’s talk Lunar. Let’s talk Hasselblad.
During the last few weeks, I have been trying to come up with a good solution for testing lenses that did not require constant movement when dealing with slightly de-centered lenses. The idea was to build a setup similar to macro rails, but one that is bigger in size and very stable at the same time. Stability is extremely important, because even a slight vibration can negatively affect lab results. Using an Arca-Swiss quick release setup was a no-brainer, because it allows moving the setup without having to deal with mounting and dismounting anything, while being rock solid when tightly secured. While my BH-55 Pro tripod head from Really Right Stuff has been serving me well for a while now, it was hard to use for minute adjustments that are often necessary when testing lenses. Therefore, I decided to replace it with a geared head that would allow very precise vertical and horizontal tilt adjustments, along with the ability to pan, when needed. My quick search revealed that unlike the army of pan/tilt heads and ballheads, which are made by a myriad of companies, there are only a few options available for geared heads today. One of them is the Manfrotto 405 Pro Geared head, which I am reviewing today.
When photographing in artificial light, one has to always watch out for the potential light frequency issue. Due to the different intensities and wavelengths of light emitted by fluorescent and other sources of man-made light, there might be severe variations in exposure when photographing at fast shutter speeds. This is a similar “flickering” issue that you see when photographing or video-recording a TV screen – different light frequencies cause the flicker that is recorded by the camera. This can happen both when taking an image and when recording videos. Take a look at the following image, which I captured in a low-light situation using the Nikon Df:
I recently wrote an article on hand-holding large and heavy lenses, which attracted quite a bit of attention and some nice comments and questions from PL readers. I am not really a writer, but a few people asked me about my technique for getting those shots. Let me start by saying that I am not an expert and there are many ways to skin a cat. So this is the way I get my shots and you will have to find your own way to achieving what you want. Let’s start with a “money shot”: what I would say is the shot of the day, the shot that made it all worth it.
The Cobra danced in front of my lens, swaying its porcelain white scales and flaring its hood. This was one of the most alluring and flat-out beautiful animals I’d ever seen. Not the least bit camera shy, the cobra flicked out its pink tongue to sniff the air then suddenly lunged at the camera. Luckily there was a pane of glass keeping me safe from the snake. I was at the Reptile Zoo in Slade, Kentucky partaking in something I generally frown upon, which is taking photos of captive animals, not ones in the wild. As I discovered, however, there are situations when shooting captive animals won’t throw your soul on the barbecue. Identifying these situations and how to present captive animal photos ethically is what I want to discuss today. Lastly I’ll give some tips on how the shots illustrating this article were done.
The Face that Launched a Thousand Clicks. The Suphan-phase Monocled Cobra that changed my mind about shooting captive animals. The venom from this snake is a neurotoxin used for antivenin. Snake neurotoxins also have applications in pain control and anti-viral research. Captive venom donor.
Our friends over at Fstoppers.com posted this funny review of the Nikon Df yesterday. Regardless of which side of the Df debate you’re on, you will find this video entertaining. While we don’t typically re-post other people’s work here at PL, we enjoyed this one so much that we thought we’d share it with our readers:
Let us know what you think!
We have been constantly running out of stock for the sensor gel stick and I am happy to say that we are now fully stocked, hopefully for a while! The limit set for how many sticks you can order has also been removed and we are now shipping internationally to many countries. If you select your country and you get an error that says “Sorry, it seems that there no available shipping methods for your location”, it means that we are not shipping to your country yet. Please use the Contact Us form and let us know where you want the sensor gel stick shipped and will consider it.
By now we have shipped over 700 units, mostly to US and Canada. If you are a happy customer, please leave some feedback on the product page. We know that many of you love the sensor gel stick, but some more feedback would surely be appreciated :) Thank you!
With Library Module holding such a large collection of tools, tabs and panels, there is no other way to write a proper, thorough overview article but to split it into several parts. In the first article, I did my best to talk about the left-side panel (or the Navigation Panel, if you like) and all its capabilities in detail. In this article, we will focus on the center section of the Library Module – mainly the Image Grid/Loupe View, and the Toolbar.
The center section of the Library Module shows the images that you’ve navigated to using the left-side panel, and provides the main way to review image files. There are a lot of things you can do using just this one section, so please bear with me while I try to explain it all. We start with the Image Grid, which basically dominates the center section of the Library Module.
1) Image Grid/Loupe View
This part of the Library Module is used to review the images, but its capabilities extend far beyond simple image display. One of the better things about it is the choice of Grid View and Loupe View modes. Loupe View is also present in Develop Module and basically shows a large preview of a selected image, but the Grid mode allows you to see several images at once and you can change the size of thumbnails to fit more images for quicker browsing, or less images to see them better. We will get to that a bit later. What matters now is that it basically makes the Film Strip redundant in Library Module as the Grid View is so much more practical to use.