Fuji X-T1 vs Olympus OM-D E-M1

The new Fujifilm X-T1 has been greeted with great enthusiasm. Based purely on specifications, the newer camera seems to be at the top in Japanese manufacturer’s line-up, at least until X-Pro2 comes along. In this article, I will compare the new X-T1 mirrorless camera from Fujifilm to Olympus’ top offering, the OM-D E-M1.

Fuji X-T1 vs Olympus OM-D E-M1

Please keep in mind that this comparison is based purely on official specifications as we have not yet had the chance to review either camera. Both cameras are priced very similarly and even look somewhat alike. Let’s see how they stack against each other on paper:

Fujifilm X-T1 vs Olympus OM-D E-M1 Specification Comparison

Camera FeatureFujifilm X-T1Olympus OM-D E-M1
Sensor Resolution16.3 Million16.3 Million
AA FilterNoNo
Sensor TypeX-Trans CMOS IICMOS
Sensor Size23.6×15.6mm17.3x13mm
Sensor Pixel Size4.82µ3.7µ
Dust Reduction / Sensor CleaningYesYes
Image Size4,896 x 3,2644,608 x 3,456
Image ProcessorEXR PROCESSOR IITruePIC VII
Viewfinder Magnification (35mm equivalent)0.77x0.74x
Viewfinder TypeElectronic (EVF)Electronic (EVF)
Viewfinder Resolution and Lag2,360,000 dots, 0.005s delay2,360,000 dots, 0.029s delay
Viewfinder Coverage100%100%
Built-in FlashNo (external unit as part of the package)No (external unit as part of the package)
Flash Sync Speed1/1801/320
Storage Media1x SD, SDHC, SDXC1x SD, SDHC, SDXC
Continuous Shooting Speed8 FPS10 FPS
Shutter Speed Range1/4000 to 30 sec1/8000 to 60 sec
Image StabilizerWith OIS LensesSensor shift
Exposure Compensation Range±3 stops±5 stops
Base ISOISO 200ISO 200
Native ISO SensitivityISO 200-6,400ISO 200-25,600
Autofocus SystemHybrid AF (TTL contrast AF / TTL phase detection AF)Hybrid AF (TTL contrast AF / TTL phase detection AF)
Focus Points49 AF points81 AF points (37 phase-detect AF points)
Face DetectionYesYes
Video CapabilityYesYes
Video OutputH.264H.264
Video Maximum Resolution1920×1080 (1080p) @ 60p1920×1080 (1080p) @ 30p
Audio RecordingBuilt-in stereo microphone
External stereo microphone (optional)
Built-in stereo microphone
External stereo microphone (optional)
Articulating LCDYesYes
LCD Size3.0″ diagonal TFT-LCD3.0″ diagonal TFT-LCD
LCD Resolution1,040,000 dots1,040,000 dots
Built-in GPSNoNo
Built-In Wi-Fi FunctionalityYesYes
Weather Sealed BodyYesYes
Operating TemperatureDown to -10ºCDown to -10ºC
USB Version2.02.0
Weight (Body Only)440g with battery and memory card497g with battery and memory card
Dimensions129 x 90 x 47 mm130 x 94 x 63 mm
Price$1,299$1,399

With the exception of a few major differences, the two cameras are very similar indeed. Starting with the ergonomics and design, they are both contemporary remakes of old film classics and will appeal to those who prefer the now-popular retro look over the dull-but-safe modern one. Personally, I would have to say Fujifilm nailed it better – I find the grip on E-M1 to look out of place, as if it was taken from a completely different camera and stuck on the Olympus at the last minute. That said, design is completely subjective. If we look past styling details, though, the ergonomics are, again, very similar. Both cameras feature prominent EVF humps which are not only necessary to store all the parts of current state-of-the-art electronic viewfinders, but also give a rather obvious node to mainstream DSLRs and, possibly, are there to convince some photographers that EVFs are getting better and better each year. Both cameras also feature an abundance of external controls and usefully large grips for better handling, especially with larger lenses. Olympus OM-D E-M1 and Fujifilm X-T1 are made of high quality materials and feature weather sealing.

There are more similarities to be found as we dig deeper. Save for the difference in aspect ratios, both cameras have sensors with pretty much the same resolution. Also, both emphasize improved EVF technology with high-resolution, high-magnification displays and short lag, as well as quick autofocus and response time.

Similarities are one thing, though. They do not make the task of choosing one over the other any easier. For that, we need to look at the list of differences starting off with all the points OM-1 wins over the X-T1. So, here are the major differences between these two cameras:

  1. Hybrid AF: I’d prefer not to speculate, but contrast-detect autofocus system of the E-M5 (read our review here) is one of the swiftest we’ve ever tested and, in some situations, quicker than that of the X-E2. Adding phase-detect autofocus could only improve it further, so unless Fujifilm has made some serious strides with AF performance with its newest model, there is a good chance E-M1 will be ever so slightly quicker.
  2. Speed: both X-T1 and E-M1 are impressively responsive cameras, and yet the E-M1 trumps its Fujifilm rival on paper. It has a slightly faster continuous shooting speed of 10 frames per second maximum (versus 8 frames per second for the Fuji). What I find to be more important in a camera that costs as much as one of these two is that E-M1 has a top shutter speed of 1/8000s – that is on par with high-end DSLRs. Sadly, X-T1 has to make due with 1/4000s, so if you shoot a lot outside wide-open, that extra stop in shutter speed is definitely an advantage to consider. I feel like I should stress this point more – any digital camera above $1000 mark with a focal-plane shutter should manage 1/8000s shutter speed, especially if its base ISO setting is ISO200, as with both these cameras. For example, I often find myself at the limit with my D700 in daylight when shooting at f/1.4 so for me the 1/4000s of the X-T1 is a serious drawback, one that becomes even more apparent after the XF 56mm f/1.2 announcement. While the Olympus is definitely better in this regard, I’d also prefer its base ISO to be at 100.
  3. ISO range: even though low-light, high ISO performance of the E-M1 is not as good as that of the Fujifilm, Olympus offers a wider range when shooting RAW. And in those cases when a grainy image is better than a blurry image, the Olympus holds an advantage.
  4. Flash sync speed: I’m not sure if all that many people would use either camera with a flash very often, but if you are into strobe photography the Olympus is clearly a better choice. It has a whopping one stop advantage in sync speed! And to be completely honest, the 1/180s of the Fujifilm is rather dismal.
  5. Image stabilization: Olympus has a very effective 5-axis image stabilization system that shifts image sensor to counter camera shake.The important part is that this sort of stabilization works with every single lens you mount even if it has no electronic linkage with the camera. Fujifilm is putting OIS into more and more lenses, like the XF 10-24mm R OIS, but there are still gaps. Here, Olympus holds an advantage.

Overall, the Olympus OM-D E-M1 seems to be a very worthy rival to the new X-T1. However, now it is time to talk about its disadvantages, and thus X-T1’s strengths.

  1. Sensors: resolution might be the same, but pixel size is not simply because X-T1 has a noticeably bigger sensor. Now, the one used in Olympus is far from being bad. I think it would still be rather unreasonable to expect it to outperform the X-Trans of the Fujifilm in terms of high ISO noise at the very least. Shallow depth of field is another matter.
  2. Lens Modulation Optimizer: just like the X100S, the Fuji X-E2 also received Fuji’s proprietary Lens Modulation Optimizer – software that can use special algorithms to reduce diffraction and other optical problems. Mind you, this is software trickery and only works in JPEG capture, so take it for what it’s worth.
  3. Layout Differences: naturally, camera layout is a very subjective matter and which one works best is really up to the person who wants to buy one of the cameras. That said, the dial-based system of the X-T1 might be the better choice, because the camera itself remains button-free for the most part.
  4. EVF: Both manufacturers boast about the technology they’ve put into the EVFs of these two cameras. Fujifilm X-T1 has a slight edge over the already hugely capable E-M1. First of all, it is slightly bigger at 0.77x 35mm equivalent magnification (although with 0.74x, the Olympus is still no slouch). Perhaps more importantly the Fuji has less lag – that’s 0.005s versus 0.029s of the Olympus. Lag is one of the bigger issues with EVFs and it is nice to see manufacturers making such progress.
  5. Dimensions and Weight: I did not expect this, but the X-T1 is smaller (even if just a little bit) in every dimension than the E-M1 despite featuring a much larger sensor. It is also nearly 60g lighter!
  6. Price: even though I stated at the beginning of this article that $1,299 is a lot for an APS-C camera (and remember, technically, the new X-T1 is not even the flagship model), Fujifilm X-T1 is actually $100 less expensive than Olympus E-M1. But less expensive is the keyword here – it is still not exactly cheap. It’s just that E-M1 is even more expensive despite having a smaller sensor.

It is a very close call between the two cameras. Your choice will most likely depend on the sensor size you prefer. Interestingly, design might also nudge you towards one camera or the other. The best thing one can do, though, is hold both in hand and use for a bit before making the decision. We will be able to draw full conclusions after both cameras are properly reviewed.

Comments

  1. 1
    ) Dimitri
    January 28, 2014 at 6:06 pm

    Just one minor detail, the E-M1 doesn’t have an AA filter

    • January 28, 2014 at 8:47 pm

      Thanks Dimitri, Romanas overlooked that one. I went ahead and fixed it.

    • 69
      ) Kenn
      February 23, 2014 at 5:58 pm

      I find not having an aa filter creates a lot of problems for me…I get lots of moire that is not fixable and so many ruined images . I previously was not shooting portraits but I have been for the past month with the E-M1 and the moire in the clothes textures can be just awful …I highly suggest using a camera with an aa filter…sharpness is not everyhing

      • February 25, 2014 at 5:37 pm

        Moire is easily fixed in camer with jpegs, or in development software such as Adobe Lightroom and Olympus Viewer 3. I shoots lot’s of fashion and beauty work and moire has never been an issue.

      • 71
        ) Val
        February 25, 2014 at 5:38 pm

        Kenn,

        Thank you for the post. Sorry to hear that you’ve had bad experiences with Oly.

        I am considering Oly EM1, and I would love to hear the other users’ comments on this issue.

        My Google search on moire artifacts with Olympus OMD EM1 produced very limited results, so I decided to ask here.

        Val

        • 72
          ) Tom
          February 25, 2014 at 6:01 pm

          Here’s my 2 cents. I was ready to make the investment on a Oly EM1 until I started reading blogs about long exposure issues, and noise at higher ISO. In fact, the EM5 out performed the EM1 in this area. It was later reported that Oly went from EM5 Sony sensor to the EM1 using a Panasonic sensor.

          Now that the Fuji XT-1 came out with the APS-C sensor, I am waiting for some comparisons with IQ, and just overall pro’s and con’s in general.

          I still like the Oly, and with NR on, it will likely fix the noise, however, this additional in camera process will take the same amount of time to fix, as it took to take the picture. For situations like fireworks photography, this is not an acceptable method that I like.

          Overall, I am still on the fence between both models. I’m sure Fuji will have it’s issues, No camera is perfect.

        • 97
          ) Simon Wylder
          March 16, 2014 at 9:24 am

          Tom, if I were you, I would also investigate the ‘shutter vibration’ issue that the E-M1 undeniably suffers from. I sold both my E-M5 and E-PL6 to buy an E-M1. Unfortunately this camera consistently produced unsharp photos at ‘safe’ settings (i.e. f/5.6, ISO200, 1/200s, 12mm). It was not a lens problem. A friend of mine, who had also bought the E-M1 had shutter vibration problems too. He tested it with his Panasonic Leica 25mm f/1.4 and his camera consistently produced unsharp photos at normal settings too. It’s not a myth. I now use the Olympus E-M10 that much to my relieve doesn’t seem to suffer from shutter shock at all. At least not with the Olympus 25mm f/1.8.

          As much as I like the design of the Fuji X-T1 and the quality of the Fuji optics, I really dislike the output of the Fuji X-Trans sensors. The RAW files look very soft and processed to me. I get better detail out of any sixteen megapixel micro four thirds sensor. Yes, there is some noise, but I choose noise (only at ISO settings above 800) over the over processed look of the Fuji files. No noise and no detail.

          • March 16, 2014 at 10:19 am

            I’ve been using a pair of E-M1’s since December of last year and have yet to notice this issue on many shoots. I’ve done natural light, studio and travel images for clients…not an issue at all.

            As for the Fuji’s…use those too extensively. Using Adobe Lightroom there is definitely an issue with how the X-Trans sensor files are interpreted by the software. The ACR 8.4 RC that i’ve been using is an improvement but not by a huge margin. To get the best out of these files you have to use Silkypix or Photo Ninja programs.

          • 106
            ) Mike_Emerson
            October 16, 2014 at 11:15 am

            When processing Fuji RAW files use Iridient Developer software and you’ll see just how much you can get from the X-Trans sensor. Don’t use Adobe ACR, it’s crap.

  2. 2
    ) Hoeras
    January 28, 2014 at 6:26 pm

    Surprisingly close – and if Fuji had just equaled the Olympus in a few areas (flash sync is the one that concerns me most), then it would be a definitive win and a lower price too. Even so, I do think the sensor size and non-AA trumps. And since I got Fuji lenses, it has got me looking.

  3. 3
    ) JeffP
    January 28, 2014 at 6:36 pm

    Does the Lens Modulation Optimizer affect raw or is it jpeg only?

    • January 28, 2014 at 8:46 pm

      Jeff, JPEG-only, so I don’t look at it as an advantage per se.

  4. 4
    ) Logan
    January 28, 2014 at 6:37 pm

    Hey roman, a little typo on evf part,i think you meant better and better each “year” (?). Cant wait for hands on reviews :)

  5. 5
    ) Chris
    January 28, 2014 at 6:37 pm

    Just did a pre order today, body and a power grip (gift) included which is free for $1299.99, cannot resist the temptation, a lot cheaper than what I paid when buying the X Pro1 with lens $2600 two years ago.

    • January 28, 2014 at 8:53 pm

      Chris, I cannot wait to try this one out. I think so far this is the most exciting announcement from Fuji. I have the OM-D E-M1 here with me and while it is an amazing machine, the Fuji X-T1 with its superb image quality and great controls excites me more for some reason :)

  6. 6
    ) Tom P
    January 28, 2014 at 6:59 pm

    Does the Fuji XT-1 include any kind of image stabilization? I don’t seen any mention of this in the various articles I read. Looks like a winner.
    Thanks,
    Tom

    • January 29, 2014 at 1:38 pm

      Tom,

      I’ve updated the article:

      “Image stabilization: Olympus has a very effective 5-axis image stabilization system that shifts image sensor to counter camera shake.The important part is that this sort of stabilization works with every single lens you mount even if it has no electronic linkage with the camera. Fujifilm is putting OIS into more and more lenses, like the XF 10-24mm R OIS, but there are still gaps. Here, Olympus holds an advantage.”

  7. 7
    ) Rudy
    January 28, 2014 at 7:38 pm

    Dimitri is right… EM-1 does NOT have an AA filter. So now there are even fewer differences.

  8. 8
    ) Global
    January 28, 2014 at 8:05 pm

    Can you compare the newly announced Samsung (APS-C) to the X-T1? They are releasing it with a pretty interesting fast lens, as well.

    It’s really too bad that the Fujifilm is only 1/4000, when its base ISO is only 200. If it had a base ISO of 100, at least you could offset the difference. But Fujifilm is building some fast glass (f/1.2 for example) — and I can imagine many people shooting wide open at times.

    What do you think about the shutter range to only 30s? vs. 60s?
    The 1/180 vs. 1/320 flash synch?

  9. 12
    ) Jon McGuffin
    January 28, 2014 at 8:48 pm

    Hmm, the difference in flash sync speed of 1/320th vs 1/180th I’m surprised is not being listed as a “major” advantage to the Olympus. Flash shooters absolutely prefer fast sync speeds.

    Love this new Fuji though, will definitely be looking to picking up one of these cams pretty soon.

    • January 28, 2014 at 8:50 pm

      Jon, I guess it depends if one heavily uses flash or not. Since these cameras are mostly designed as rugged, weather-resistant cameras, they are probably not targeted at the crowd that likes to shoot off-camera flash. But you are right, 1/320 vs 1/180 is a big difference.

      • 16
        ) Jon McGuffin
        January 28, 2014 at 8:54 pm

        For me, with the 58mm 1.2 coming online, these little cameras scream as lightweight portrait machines that don’t have you shoving a huge DSLR and monster lens down the face of your subject. But I see your point.

        • January 28, 2014 at 10:01 pm

          Jon, and you are absolutely right – these cameras are great alternatives to DSLRs for portraiture as well. I wish Fuji made a different shutter on their cameras that can sync at higher speeds. For that reason, the Fuji X100/X100S cameras are loved by many – their leaf shutters lift the limitation to insane sync speeds!

        • January 29, 2014 at 2:28 am

          Exactly. I love my X100s for this exact reason.
          1/1000s X-Sync and ND-Filter are a dream for strobist purposes.
          The slow X-Sync of X bodies is the only thing that keeps me from buying this system.
          Sadly, I fear that the 1/180s X-Sync is a technical barrier that won’t be overcome. I hope I’m wrong.

  10. January 28, 2014 at 9:38 pm

    I received my Oly E-M1 with the 12-40 2.8 zoom last week after a 7 week wait. I am 69 years old and have had my share of cameras and I like this one best. Even more than my Nikon D600. What sets this camera……way apart, is the incredible ‘5-Axis’ IS on the camera sensor. As a goof, I got a sharp photo at 1/4 of a second. With one hand!

    • January 28, 2014 at 10:03 pm

      The in-camera stabilization on the OM-D series is in fact amazing. It would be nice if manufacturers adapted a two way stabilization – in-body for short focal length lenses and in-lens for telephoto/supertelephoto. When one is engaged, the other one turns off. Unfortunately, it is either-or for now…

      • 52
        ) Jason
        February 1, 2014 at 1:24 pm

        Panasonic has this on the GX-7.

  11. 20
    ) Monsour
    January 28, 2014 at 10:23 pm

    Thanks for the comparison Roman. Does the X-T1 have real time exposure simulation via live view like the Olympus?

    By the way Roman, a typo on an unreleased X-T2 on this part :
    “EVF: Both manufacturers boast about the technology they’ve put into the EVFs of these two cameras. Fujifilm X-T2 has a slight edge over the already hugely capable E-M1.”

    • January 28, 2014 at 11:59 pm

      Monsour, considering that Fuji fixed it on the X-E2, I am sure it does. Thanks for letting us know about the typo – fixed it. Roman was a little tired when he wrote this one and I didn’t have a chance to review it fully before posting, so my apologies.

  12. 21
    ) chris
    January 28, 2014 at 10:43 pm

    The E-M1 has a base ISO of 100 which I did not see mentioned.

    • January 28, 2014 at 11:56 pm

      Chris, that’s not true. I have the E-M1 in my hands right now and its base ISO is 200. It has a “boost” ISO of 100 labeled as “Low”, but that’s not the base ISO :)

      • 39
        ) Chris
        January 29, 2014 at 7:07 pm

        Ok, but the question now is does the X-T1 offer that feature where one can shoot at ISO 100?

        • January 29, 2014 at 7:13 pm

          Chris, yes, but it does not actually lower the ISO – instead, the camera will darken the image post-capture by one stop. Much like you would yourself with something like Lightroom’s exposure adjustment and much like E-M1 and any other camera with “ISO boost” option. And it is only available in JPEG capture with the Fuji. In my opinion, totally useless and somewhat of a lie.

          • 41
            ) chris
            January 29, 2014 at 7:43 pm

            Ok, will await your reviews on both cameras.

  13. 22
    ) Anders
    January 28, 2014 at 11:06 pm

    I think you forgot one incredibly important thing in this comparison. Olympus has without a doubt the best image stabilizer on the marked – and it works with ALL your lenses. In most cases it doesn’t matter if the Fuji has a stop or so better ISO performance, you can shot at 4 stops lower shutter speed with the Olympus due to that incredible image stabilizer.
    I absolutely love my EM-1, but i gotta say: Damn that Fuji looks nice :)!

    • January 28, 2014 at 11:58 pm

      Anders, the chart includes stabilization differences between the two. I agree, sensor stabilization is amazing on the OM-D E-M1, but some Fuji lenses have stabilization as well. Didn’t want to get into the whole lens vs body stabilization debate :)

      And I agree – the Fuji does look beautiful. I already sold the X-E1 and will most likely be keeping this one.

    • 42
      ) Gerry C
      January 29, 2014 at 8:51 pm

      Of course, any stabilization is great for when your subject isn’t moving (or moving very much).

      What I really want to know is… where is that “subject stabilization” feature I’ve been dreaming of for years? That sure would have been handy when trying to capture action [like my kids] in low light… Kind of like the “bullet time” from the Matrix — to slow down everything else around the photographer. I’ll keep dreaming, I guess. :-)

  14. 26
    ) Peter
    January 29, 2014 at 1:49 am

    I’ve been eyeing the E-M1 for about a month now and patiently waited for the XT-1 to be released.
    I can now say that the only significant difference that is swaying my decision towards fuji is the sensor size.
    but damn its a hard decision.
    Goodbye Nikon, Hello Fuji!

  15. January 29, 2014 at 2:35 am

    I would go for the Fujifilm mainly because of the larger sensor, but Olympus (with Panasonic) have a larger collection of lenses. Still I would go with the Fujifilm

  16. 29
    ) John Doe
    January 29, 2014 at 2:58 am

    Sounds to me like the choice between the two would be based more on available lenses than the cameras themselves

    • January 29, 2014 at 1:20 pm

      Lenses are of course very important when it comes to choosing what system to invest in. Micro Four Thirds have more lenes to choose from, but Fuji now also have some great glass, only one year and a half since the introduction of the X-system.

      • January 29, 2014 at 1:45 pm

        Björn,

        that is part of the reason why I chose not to talk about lens offerings. Yes, Olympus has more. But Fuji is, I think, nailing it with the new optics. They all make sense. So it’s a bit of a draw in this regard. The other reason is that this is more of a camera versus camera, not one system against another kind of comparison. Otherwise I’d have to talk about accessories, too, and perhaps even get into other strengths of each system.

        • 37
          ) John Doe
          January 29, 2014 at 4:56 pm

          True – and the latest Fujifilm roadmap looks tasty, couple of fast zooms with weather proofing, plus a walk around zoom also with weather proofing

  17. January 29, 2014 at 3:26 am

    Hello, everyone. Thank you for you notes – I was indeed very tired when I wrote this, but wanted to finish it and publish nonetheless. Thus the typos and a couple of things missed. I will update the article, thanks for understanding!

  18. 31
    ) Val
    January 29, 2014 at 11:12 am

    Romanas, thank you for the very good article.

    This camera starts another cycle of my internal debates with regard MFT vs APS-C vs FF (Olympus EM1 vs Fuji vs Nikon D610).

    I like FF but I would appreciate better primes from Nikon.

    Val

  19. 32
    ) MariusM
    January 29, 2014 at 11:42 am

    This threw me off early in this article: “That said, $1,299 is quite a lot of money for an APS-C camera”.
    What?! The Olympus, with the SMALLER sensor is $100 more.
    Seems like a more logical statement would have been “That said, $1,399 is quite a lot of money for a 4/3 camera”.

    • January 29, 2014 at 1:42 pm

      Marius,

      the sentence, on its own, is quite true – X-T1 is expensive. But you are quite right in saying E-M1 is even more so, especially considering it has an even smaller sensor. I’ve updated the last paragraph under the X-T1’s strengths to reflect this. Thank you for pointing this out!

  20. 38
    ) Daniel Michael
    January 29, 2014 at 6:59 pm

    Hi there,

    Would also like to point out that another difference, at least here in the UK, is that the X-T1 costs £1049 and the E-M1 costs £1299, both body only. Both come with different “kit” lenses which change the gap (X-T1 at @ £1399 and E-M1 has two kits @ £1499 and £1949). Since I don’t know the Oly lenses very well, I’d say as body only goes the prices vastly differ. The Oly then enters the price region of the consumer full frames like the D610 and the 6D.

    So for at least for us in the UK, if both are similar, spec wise, price-wise they’re in different leagues, and yet the APS-C sensor is cheaper than the m4/3, and all the ISO connatations that go with it.

  21. 43
    ) Mike K
    January 30, 2014 at 9:20 am

    I have been contemplating selling off my Nikon DX gear and move to Olympus but now Fuji just made the decision even harder. I will wait a bit to see a hands on comparison between the Olympus and Fuji before I make the decision. Thanks for the comparison and I look forward to more reviews!

  22. January 30, 2014 at 2:14 pm

    I shoot with both Fuji and Olympus systems, in addition to the Canon 5d Mark 3, and currently my system of choice is the Olympus OMD-EM1. The Olympus OMD-EM1 is better for me than the new Fuji XT-1 because of the 5 axis stabilization, the 8000s shutter speed, and the faster flash sync speed to. In addition, the 5 touch screen focusing is very nice to have for discreet candid shooting. In practice, it’s a huge advantage to have 8000 second shutter speed vs 4000 second shutter speed if you like to shoot wide open in daylight. That extra stop makes a difference between having to use an ND filter and not having to use one. I think for most people, the larger sensor size isn’t going to make a difference in image quality. It makes no difference to my clients so I don’t even think about it. Instead, I like the extra range of sharpness the smaller sensor of the OMD gives me. I think of it as an advantage rather than a disadvantage when it comes to portrait photography involving more than one person in the scene.

  23. 45
    ) Wing
    January 30, 2014 at 4:39 pm

    I have the E-M1 and really have no complaints. It operates really well, the ergonomics and functionality are top notch, as well as the build and quality of available lenses. IQ is really good and unless you pixel peep, really need big ass prints, it is more than capable of delivery high quality results for both the enthusiast as well as the pro level, imho.

    I’m on the fence a bit these days as to which side I want to be on. On one hand I love my E-M1 and all that MFT has to offer. But, this new X-T1 has me wanting to go back to Fuji again (note, I use to own a X100 & X10 and loved them also, great IQ and performance, no doubt, but the AF/MF sucked! Just wasn’t reliable enough, so I opted for the OM-D line for a more balanced and reliable high grade performance overall). They are just about on par in a number of ways, but the control layout, the notable and debated dials on the X-T1 (like the Nikon Df) are very cool and I can see the positives to having them as opposed to traditional modern control dials & buttons, have me very interested in the X-T1. Also, there is a bit of an advantage and liking towards what an APS-C sensor can do in terms of slightly better dynamic range (DR) & almost as important to me the better ability to get shallower depth of field (DOF). I can probably come close on MFT system, but you really have to have the right fast lens and be positioned in the optimum distance to subject and background/foreground to have something that measures the closest to what a APS-C (or Full Frame) sensor can produce bokeh-wise.

    I’ve been debating a a few topics in my head for a while till this very day, between the X-T1 & E-M1, specifically comparing.

    Like the Nikon Df, I do have a very strong liking to the direct dials and controls on top the camera to which they really help add to the retro styling cues. However, unlike the Df, the ones on the Fuji X-T1 are a lot more intuitive, less redundant, and seem to work more positively than the Df.

    But, comparing the control dial concepts between E-M1(which I own & currently use) & X-T1, I will say that the E-M1’s is actually better to use, both ergonomically and functionally. That’s one of the top reasons I moved to the E-M1 from the E-M5, the control layout and having nearly everything you could most commonly want and will use right there at your fingertips without menu diving. With a quick press of a custom button and/or a flick of the 1-2 switch around the the AE-L/AF-L button, you can pretty much do everything in position without moving your eye and framing of scene to do so.

    Where as the X-T1, perhaps at first, you may need to remove your eye to locate and see exactly the controls you are setting. With time, you will probably learn and know where and how to move your fingers and if you can do that, the changes to your settings should show up in the EVF (or rear LCD if you’re using that to compose).

    BUT, the X-T1 has a slightly less smooth transition and operation. Think about it.

    1) at least 2 of the exposure dials, namely ISO & Shutter, you have lock buttons on them so that’s an extra thing to push.. not hard, but it’s not as quick as turning the dial unobstructed directly like on the E-M1.

    2) again, at least 2 of the exposure dials, again namely ISO & Shutter, you will probably need to put some effort into repositioning your hand and fingers to resetting them accordingly. I don’t believe it’s difficult, but it’s yet another extra movement and bit of effort to set your exposure, for example, which you wouldn’t have to do on the E-M1.

    On the E-M1, everything is pretty much in position and you make little to no effort in adjusting exposure settings (and a number of other settings) right on the spot… they’re readily at your finger tips and there are no locks to contend with.

    In reality, these are what I consider minor gripes, but none the less valid “obstacles” which may make your shooting experience that less smooth, quick or slick, depending on your style.

    I think for pure ergonomics and functionality and smooth operation, the E-M1 works and makes a bit more sense.

    A slight advantage to the exposure dials of the X-T1 is that you can pretty much instantly see and set in advance the exposure settings on the outside before turning on the camera. In a way, it can be faster and quicker to operate if you look at it this way.

    This is one area that causes me to keep going back and forth on my reasonings to stay with my E-M1 or switch to the T-X1.. besides a slight advantage towards the X-T1’s sensor because it is APS-C and should have better DR, ability for shallower DOF, higher ISO/low light, and overall IQ & resolution. The E-M1 is no slouch in the IQ & resolution department, but that extra DR & shallower DOF makes for a strong argument and tempting proposition to switch to the X-T1.

    But, let’s also include this… E-M1 +’s: higher max shutter speed (quite good outdoors for fast wide open aperture shots), higher flash sync speed (1/320?! pretty damn good), that 5-axis IBIS! it’s pretty legendary at this point and it really does work and help out ALOT, not to mention every lens is stabilized no matter what!

    I don’t know… I think I’m most drawn to the X-T1’s dials just for looks and some bit of tactile experience that few modern cameras other than Fuji can offer. It’s different and I think can work just as good as other control styles, but it really depends on the photographer’s style and shooting needs… still need to think about this a while before I made any new decisions here…

    • January 30, 2014 at 10:04 pm

      I share the same opinion regarding the analysis of the Olympus OMD-EM1 vs the Fuji X-T1. However, my conclusion is the the Olympus OMD-EM1 is the superior camera for what I do. The Fuji’s 4000 shutter speed is a huge disadvantage for shooting wide open outdoors, and I still have my doublts about Fuji’s claims of focusing speed. They claim that the Fuji X100s has the world’s fastest autofocus. I have and love the Fuji X100s but to make that claim is ridiculous. With the Fuji X100s, the autofocus became fast enough, but still a far cry from being the “fastest autofocus”. My Olympus OMD-EM5 and Olympus OMD-EM1 smokes it. I suspect the Olympus it will be faster than the Fuji X-T1 as well. Thought I love the retro dials on the Fuji X T1, for me, the superior ergonomics and usability for run and gun shooting wins over. I change anything I need without taking my eyes from the viewfinder and I can do most of it one handed as well! It seems to me with the retro dials of the Fuji Xt1, you will be forced to use two hands to make many of the changes, include ISO, aperture.

      When it comes to image quality, I actually prefer the Olympus OMD-EM1 as well. It doesn’t have any of the weird artifacts that sometimes show up with the Fuji files. I use to shoot with the X100s paired with the XPo1 but when the Olympus OMD-EM1 came along, the decision was easy to switch to the Olympus.

      • 48
        ) Wing
        January 31, 2014 at 11:27 am

        All good points and we obviously agree.

        I think there’s just a lot of hype around the X-T1.. some of it quite valid and looks promising, but in the end I think I will stick with my E-M1.

        Once again, there’s nothing I feel is missing or disappointing about my E-M1. The majority of most everything you could possibly want to control and set is just a dial, button or flick or a with to access without readjusting hand/finger positioning or removing eye from viewfinder.

        Image quality of the E-M1 really does not disappoint.

        There are few things done differently and pretty nice on the X-T1, but I think if I remove myself from the pressures of G.A.S. and think clearly on the pros vs cons of switching to the X-T1, then I can see it’s not quite worth the $$.. definitely be losing out, and will have far less lenses I WANT to have and use available (due to budget differences after selling the E-M1 system, lenses and accessories) .

        I think I’d rather save up for more quality MFT lenses to add to my collection and fill the gaps I don’t have… wait a bit and see if the X-T1 is really worth it after a good amount of users and reviewers have tested it for 2014.. maybe at the end of this year when it’s time for gifts and things again I may invest in one.. or, better yet, maybe an X-Pro 2 (or 1S or whatever is the next X-Pro) might be arriving?

        As nice as the Fuji X cameras are, I still feel they can do better and push the envelope more…. I don’t see why they can’t squeeze out 1/8000, or 1/320 flash sync. AF? I have yet to get a good dose of effective reliable fast AF with an X camera.. maybe once more testing and users have tried the X-T1 that may actually be a real positive feature of an X camera. If so, my views may be changed for the better.. but until then… and, as far as a new X-Pro camera goes… I would really like to see a more accurate and reliable OVF… I can never accurately acquire and trust AF with the OVF. If they can make AF point with OVF actually reliable, I think I may be back in… Also, if they can make MF in OVF viable, I’m definitely in… I’m thinking if Fuji can overlay more digital information (in addition to the level, exposure info, shooting modes, etc.. that they already do) such as a split image screen and adjusting frame lines in OVF mode.. like a Leica M works, but Fuji’s own digital version, that would be something… a really complete and useful functioning H.U.D. for the OVF mode would be incredible.. too much tech and wishful thinking?.. maybe my expectations are too high for Fuji?.. time will tell perhaps…

        • 49
          ) erocinov
          February 1, 2014 at 7:55 am

          I have exactly the same experiences and I like my E-M1 and is a worthy addition as a camera for what it offers. However my next camera will be the next Leica M model; it meets my usage and requirements style by 95%. After all you loose valuable time in unworthy comparisons rather than doing the actual picture making.

    • 87
      ) Christine Fitzgerald
      March 11, 2014 at 4:57 pm

      Please, let me know what you decide and why because your arguments for and against are the same ones that are whizzing around my head!

      • 88
        ) Wing
        March 11, 2014 at 6:50 pm

        Assuming you are asking me, I have decided to hold off on the X-T1. Look for “Wing” comments at the stevehuffphoto site where he’s recently reviewed the X-T1 and given his thoughts about it..(a link here if you need to find it fast: http://www.stevehuffphoto.com/2014/03/10/the-fuji-x-t1-review-fuji-creates-the-best-x-to-date/#comment-278635).

        I think he also ultimately decided not to purchase an X-T1. Not that it isn’t a great camera, but that the E-M1 does a lot of stuff he might equally use the X-T1 for, and if it can’t, then he has other cameras like a Leica and Sony to cover other areas, so the X-T1 doesn’t quite make sense to add.

        But, going back to me, I’ve posted my most recent thoughts on it and why. I’ll restate a bit of it here.

        I’ll “try” to make it shorter on this post and condense my feelings on the matter… but, like anything I’m somewhat passionate or excited about, I may go off and really getting into details. I may also ramble and go off target a bit, but read through.. I think they are valid points.. strong enough ones that made me hold onto my E-M1 and not get a X-T1 (or any Fuji X camera) at this time.. waiting.. what for, read all the way to the bottom for what may make me switch later.

        It’s not that the X-T1 can’t produce great files… in fact, I like the Fuji files quite a bit and would tip my hat to them for actually making slightly better photos in general. But, the work I do, I’m not convinced that extra bit of better IQ would really make that big a difference.. and I primarily do portraits and a lot of outdoor portraits, so high ISO and low light rarely come into play. That being said, sure the E-M1 is probably a little noisier, but I shoot up to ISO 6400 and never found it objectionable PROVIDED I USE A NICE LENS. A nice lens makes a world of difference. With any camera, you want to try to invest in the best glass you can cause it will either break or make your camera great – also more importantly provided you are also great at taking pics ;), but that’s another matter.

        I think a nice high grade fast lens on the E-M1 plus the super excellent 5-axis in body image stabilization evens out the high ISO battle field a bit.. you really can get a lot of great and tricky shots, even in low light, because the 5-axis IBIS is really that good and stable.. and it will work on any lens! Maybe I need more practice, but when I had both the X100 & X10, I could tell you there were a lot of shots like being in a Hong Kong MTR subway train moving trying to take a photo which I could not do without some blur.. I know it would have been way easier had I had the OM-D (E-M1 or previously my E-M5). It’s really amazing the handheld steadied shots you can get out of the OM-D.

        It comes down to usability to me… one of the reasons I upgraded from an E-M5. The E-M5’s images are almost identical to the E-M1, so upgrading for image IQ doesn’t factor in much… much like the X-T1 vs E-M1 for me.. I’ll have great usable images in either case.

        I prefer the E-M1’s interface.. ergonomically I consider it one of the best, if not THE best for me. All the gripes and tactile experiences with the E-M5 have been fixed or greatly improved in the E-M1. Better placed, spaced and tactile buttons. Response is fast. even more buttons and dials and customization to access everything you could possibly want and then some… I don’t care how much people praise the X-T1’s dial and not having to “menu dive”… that’s not necessarily true especially when you compare to the E-M1.. the E-M1 has even more accessibility to modes and functions and customizations without menu diving.. the advantage being you can swap the buttons and dials to so many multiple settings, it’s all pretty much right there.. though I really like the X-T1’s dedicate retro dials on top, that’s also a slight downfall.. they are dedicated and can’t be changed.. looks good, but I feel they offer a lot less flexibility than what the E-M1’s fully customizable dials and buttons can bring immediately to your finger tips.

        Bright EVF… sure the X-T1 is larger, but it’s actually the same resolution.. about 2.3-2.4 million dots, just has glass inside to magnify it bigger, and it won’t be that much bigger over the E-M1’s where you’ll feel pitiful for having an E-M1. No, the E-M1 is quite good already and probably 2nd best due to size. Speaking of the EVF, and I like using the EVF over a rear LCD whenever possible. The E-M1 is cleaner and less noisy overall, but it can be slightly laggy.. conversely, the X-T1 is supposedly actually noisier than the E-M1’s, but it does so by trying to uphold the frame rate.. give and take, but they’ll both perform pretty much just as good with little to nothing to complain about as far as have some of the best EVF’s available for mirrorless cameras. It was a + reason to go to the X-T1, but after thinking about it, it’s not really that much better.. the focusing aids like split/dual display for MF is cool, but the E-M1’s EVF is actually pretty bright and clear and detailed, I hardly even need to use focus peaking, all by sight is generally good enough for 85% of my critical MF needs.

        I wouldn’t even say I’m a great photographer and demand ultimate IQ.. if I were, I think I’d seriously look at FF as my one and main camera if I were. IQ from anything smaller than FF is more than adequate these days as we aren’t doing super posters and billboards, I think.. and even then, even if we were, think about the size to viewing distance ratio.. it will never be viewed that close that you can see bad pixels. Up close, sure.. but, do you watch a big 65″ tv screen from just 2 feet away?.. everything will look like crap no matter how super HD you go. No, it’s about how well the camera is designed and flows. I get the dials and immediate settings you can see and set on the outside of the X-T1, but there’s more to photography and extra bit of adjustments and fine tuning I actually believe you can’t quite get to so directly as the dials may suggest.. and I think the E-M1 gets you to where you want to be in a much more convenient way.. and it has plenty of dials and buttons and retro looks already.. ok, the grip is a bit large and about the only thing not inline with “retro”, yes I would have preferred it visually to be smaller like the X-T1… but damn it! it works really well and feels good. one of the most secure grips you’ll ever get in a mirrorless camera right now.

        I say if you want a fast working camera that is about as slick in function as you can get, the E-M1 is a better choice.. I would get the X-T1 (or any other X camera) more for a secondary hobby or fun camera for personal use at this point.. just the way I personally feel and see it right now.

        Let me take some excerpts from my recent posts on steve huff photo’s x-t1 review comments below:

        I’m not trying to bash the X-T1, there are many great things about it (and Fuji X cameras overall), but it just doesn’t seem like they refined and made it the best it could be.. a lot of “..what if…” and “…I really wished this and that could have been better…” And I think Fuji will pick up on user feedback like they always do and make improvements and get it right and closer to being what I think it should have been at this point which is the best X camera to date.. but it isn’t that yet.

        I think they took like 4 steps forward and 2 steps back with the X-T1. Most good, but not completely where they could or should be or at least I’d like them to be. They are still figuring things out.. note they always move buttons around still and end up getting them not exactly in the same place between cameras…why put a non-customizable rec button that will probably never be seriously used?

        If I did not have an E-M1 and a decent lens group and very happy with the Oly performance and greater feature set, I’d probably might just lean towards getting another Fuji again with the X-T1.. figure out ways to make it work despite it’s limitations, but that not being the case, I think hanging on and using the E-M1 with it’s great performance paired with great lenses can yield equal, if not better, overall results… with less yearning for more in those few, but key, areas if I were to get a X-T1… it’s all about the details here and I personally feel the X-T1 needs to cover a lot of the things that just feel less than what it should be.

        Squishy buttons, light leakage, low max high (& low) shutter speeds, eye cup dust/dirt magnet, missing full range of possible ISO settings (e.g. 3 extended High ISO, but only 2 assignable spots, H1 & H2, huh? If they had thought it out, that shouldn’t have even been needing to be an option and just have it on the ISO dial already) & inability to save RAW files for a number of settings, etc… those are some of my top what if’s and wishes for the next X-T and perhaps the next X-Pro.

        Yes, I’m griping a bit and have basically made up my mind on which camera system I like… and it’s my opinion, but this is a discussion and all about opinions and experiences that cumulatively will help anybody make their own choice for whatever works best for him or her.

        … and I’m trying to state what’s in my head and what I wish so strongly just because I REALLY REALLY wanted to fully like and own this camera and system.. a lot of great things about it, the EVF, very nice X-Trans Sensor & retro form factor was almost enough by itself to make it worth it. But, unfortunately, for me, a bit too much little things have surfaced after reading reviews & user experiences that make me not want it so much any more.

        I was so ready and set to post pics of my E-M1 and gear during the past few weeks and get some $$ back to afford the X-T1 and a nice lens or two and accessories to start, but there’s just enough lacking for me that make me re-think and it is not such a wise decision to go from my E-M1 to X-T1.. Gotta be patient & hold off & get a camera and system that fully satisfies what I want instead of well… settling in a number of key areas I’m sure to be too picky to live with. I’m sure it’ll get better and worth the sell and trade up later down the line.. and I don’t think it’ll be a long wait, either.

      • 89
        ) Wing
        March 11, 2014 at 7:00 pm

        … also, check out cameralabs recent X-T1 review and they do a lot of comparisons with the E-M1, also.

        You’ll note some similar design and functionality oddities that in my eyes do make the X-T1 seem not quite as well thought out and as intuitive to operate as some who rejoice at the dials, EVF & improved AF mostly.

        It’s good to get a lot of feed back and cross examine reviews and user experiences and opinions to help better form your own. Just because what I or anybody decides is “best” and goes against the masses isn’t necessarily wrong.. we’re individuals and everyone has different needs and likes.

        Hope this and other people’s comments and insights help you decide.

        I’d say if you have the luxury to invest in more than 1 system, then get both. I don’t have that luxury so I decided to stick with the E-M1 and MFT for the time being until I feel Fuji has 1 camera that has everything (or up to a certain mark) of what I want in a camera. The E-M1 really has that and then some.. I can’t complain. I look around and want other cameras I think more as a habit of G.A.S. really analyze and think what you like and want and will really work best for your style and I think you can live and be happy with it for a long time so you can continue taking better photos instead of worrying what is better.. .again, harder pill to swallow than it is to prescribe :) Good luck!

        • 90
          ) Christine Fitzgerald
          March 12, 2014 at 5:33 am

          Wing – thanks for an amazing post; so well considered, reasoned and referenced. I need to read it through a couple of times to absorb it and to check out the links and discussions you have pointed out,

          I just wanted to thank you for now.

          • 92
            ) Wing
            March 12, 2014 at 5:34 pm

            Hey, Christine.

            You’ve probably gotten a heavy dose of info from me, but I’d like to add some final (really the last?) thoughts…

            Good luck on your choice, you really can’t lose with either E-M1 or X-T1.

            Again, i would probably buy both E-M1 AND X-T1 if I had the money, but I can only commit to 1 system and for me the E-M1 has better bang for the $$. This is me, and of course everyone has other requirements and desires.

            Let’s keep things positive and stick to the +’s of both cameras to see what makes them good… in my opinion.

            Off the top of my head right now, I’ll start with the shorter list of likes of X-T1 over the E-M1.

            1a) X-Trans APS-C Sensor – Great higher IQ for higher ISO & Low Light. Color is very nice and DR is also very good.

            1b) Related to the first point, but because of the larger sensor size, you’ll get more shallow depth of field.

            2a) Design and form factor – Although I still find the dials slightly less efficient in overall camera use, I still really like the look and feel of them. I really do like the dials! And I like the more boxy and flatter shape of the X-T1, though it probably isn’t as good or secure to hold compared to E-M1’s much more substantial grip. This is more about style rather than functionality.

            2b) This is related to the last point, but you can see and set ISO, Shutter & Aperture on the outside before turning on the camera with the analog external controls on the X-T1.

            4) Separate dedicated Exposure Lock & Focus Lock Buttons. I prefer this than just having the 1 AEL/AFL button on the back of most cameras.

            5) Nice selection of Fuji branded lenses that are all metal (at least most of them are) and have excellent quality and aperture ring on the lenses AND they include the lens hoods!

            Off the top of my head right now, What I like about the E-M1 over the X-T1.

            1) 5-Axis In Body Image Stabilization (IBIS). It’s almost legendary at this point and ANY lens can always have great image stabilization. You’ll free yourself up in many situations where you’d need to take the time to setup a tripod. Also, you’ll be able to use either lower shutter speeds and/or lower ISO with just how stable the 5-axis IBIS is which kind of balances out the high ISO low light advantage that the X-T1 has.

            2) EVF – Well, it’s not actually better, but I still find it really good and almost the same, approx. 2.3million dots. And, c’mon, 0.74 magnification vs 0.77. Again, noise in low light should be better controlled over the X-T1’s but the refresh rate a tad slower… but I don’t believe it’s not even going to be that much slower than the X-T1’s. They’re both great EVF’s and I the EVF in the E-M1 was a big factor for me to upgrade over the E-M5.

            3) Art (Advanced) Filters – I can’t say I use them that much, only maybe 2 or 3 of them from time to time, but I think there are more on the E-M1 and each filter has extra customizable settings within them which the X-T1 does not. And you can save both JPEG+RAW so you always have a good original RAW file to go back to unlike the X-T1 where you’re committed to just a JPEG when using their Advanced (Art) Filters. ALSO! You can use any of the Art (Advanced) Filters when recording movies. You can’t use Advanced (Art) Filters for movies recording on the X-T1.

            4a) Speaking of movie recording, yes both have them, and the Olympus isn’t exactly known for being the best for video recording, but in comparison to the X-T1, it is a lot better. You have more manual controls and the X-T1 you don’t have any.. essentially just record and that’s it. At least you have options on the E-M1. And the 5-Axis IBIS is just as awesome with video as it is with still photos.. you will feel and look like you’ve got a real pro stabilization platform.

            4b) On a side note about video, if you wanted to take video recording more seriously, there are better options out there than the E-M1. That being said, you have great lens options from Olympus, Panasonic and other 3rd Party Mfg’s for MFT system and so whatever lenses you do get for the E-M1, if you decide you want a more serious video capable camera like the Panasonic GH3 (or the GH4!) or even the very cool Black Magic Pocket Cinema cameras, they are all MFT format and will easily accept all your E-M1 lenses! Extend your lens usage for more serious video work and both Black Magic and Panasonic have some of the best video features you could ask for.

            5) Being MFT format, you have a huge array of both native MFT lenses.. probably the largest for mirrorless cameras. And a lot of them are great and relatively small compared to their larger sensor counterparts. But, if size is not an issue and you already own some lenses for APS-C or FF, there’s an adapter for all of them for MFT so the lens options is even greater.

            6) Live Bulb/Live Time. For long exposures, it doesn’t get any better or easier than this, imho. No other camera offers this. You get to see your images develop for long exposures right on the back of the screen. Sure, you have a limited # of refresh frames, but at least you have a great tool to actually see, measure & gauge how to fine tune your shots as you’re exposing. I think once the E-M1 gets the additional Live Composite feature found on the new E-M10, it’ll make long exposures even easier since it is suppose to take multiple exposure shots and stop exposures in different areas of the composition so they don’t get overexposed and then combine everything into 1 perfectly exposed long exposure shot in all areas of the image. Very cool!

            7) Super customizable dials and buttons with multiple functions. There’s even less menu diving than the X-T1 because of this ability in the E-M1.

            8) Large, raised, positive feedback rear direction pads! If you select your AF points all the time, having good direction pads on the back are a must. The X-T1’s sucks! It’s basically a known fact and probably the top most complained about feature of the X-T1. You will love the response and feedback and ease of use with the E-M1’s rear direction pads… not to mention you don’t have to push 1 extra button to move them unlike the X-T1.

            9) And if the nice direction pads on the E-M1 aren’t good enough and you want even faster AF point selection, you have the responsive touch screen on the rear 3” lcd! Just touch where you want and the AF instantly goes there! How fast is that? The touch screen is also great to access the super control panel (much like Fuji’s quick menu button) because you can simply quickly touch the specific feature you want to change and turn the dial to immediately adjust and set. You would have to use the hard to push direction pads on the X-T1 and press multiple times to get to where you want to adjust. Last note on the touch screen, you can use it to also instantly lock focus AND take the photo at the same time! Great for low or high angles where you finger may not be in best supportive position to press the normal shutter release button.. also great for discreet candids.

            10) No locks on controls and settings. One might think you’d want to lock settings and dials, but not like on the X-T1, necessarily. Why? It’s an extra step, be it not physically demanding, it’s still not as direct as just turning or pressing a control and getting to where you want which is what you have on the E-M1. You should almost never get your controls knocked out of place when your camera is in a bag cause the camera should be off and no controls are active.

            11) Between the E-M1 & X-T1, on those rare moments where you’d like to hand off the camera to a friend or family member who also maybe doesn’t know how to use a proper camera, I think the E-M1 will be much easier for an unexperienced user to handle faster. It’s auto function and slicker interface and overall speed seems friendlier to the uninitiated.. then there’s the handy touch screen on the E-M1 which you can focus & take photo at same time with touch of finger.. how easy is that to tell someone to simply touch the screen on the face to take the photo and it will be done as simple as that?… I think more people can relate to touching a lcd screen to take photos since nearly everyone has a cell phone and takes photos this way these days.

            12) Weather resistant lenses already available for the E-M1 and more to come.. not sure how soon the Fuji’s new ones will take.. Also, word is they are somewhat quite large, so don’t expect compact anymore if you want a quality fast lenses for both zooms and primes. You will do well with size and weight with the E-M1’s (& other MFT cameras) form factor with their line of fast quality lenses of equivalent focal lengths.

            13) Olympus has slightly better range of branded flashes and they can be remotely controlled without wirelessly without an extra wireless trigger with TTL! And you can set up to 4 and control individually through the E-M1.

            I think that’s about it for now. If I think of more, you’ll know I’ll probably be back to add some.

            MY BOTTOM LINE

            If you are a simple shooter, just use the Shutter, Aperture & ISO adjustments primarily, want very nice still photos, and don’t need or even plan to use any advanced (art) filters, movies or anything else besides still photos, then the X-T1 is better for you as the rest is distraction and pointless anyways.. you can make all your tweaks in post if needs be, but the jpegs are quite pleasant straight from the camera, but you have that creative option which is better performed outside of camera than in.

            If you want a more capable camera, whether you will actually use all the features or not, the E-M1 has much more rounded features in camera that will probably save you more time in post if you even need to go there. I feel you primarily only lose the slightly higher IQ and low light ISO performance, but if you don’t do a lot of low light shots, it doesn’t really matter. In fact, if you do more bright lights and outdoor shots that require faster shutter & flash sync speeds, then you definitely want the E-M1 because it will give you that performance and flexibility. There is less menu diving as the many dials and buttons will give you multiple purposes and settings instead of the more set values and operations on the X-T1. But, I think you only need to be more concerned about having more direct access to settings and other features if you plan to experiment and really play with more settings than just your basic photography adjustments.

          • 93
            ) Wing
            March 12, 2014 at 5:55 pm

            ok.. one last thing about what I just added.

            Most of the +’s for the E-M1 are probably above and beyond just taking photos. If that’s all you care about and none of the extra features and options I feel the E-M1 has over the X-T1 interests you., then go with the X-T1. It is a great camera for just still photos.

            The E-M1 also takes great photos, but there is slight disadvantage of MFT sensor for overall better quality.. it’s still really good, but the X-T1 is just a bit better for still photos, I think.

            I do believe that the E-M1 with it’s extra or more rounded features will ultimately allow for more creative freedom straight from the camera, however.. not just for still photos, but other effects such as video (for reasons I just wrote above).

            Oh! forgot to mention 2 more + for E-M1.

            14) HDR – The camera can perform various HDR processing in camera.. i don’t believe the X-T1 can. And if you prefer to process your own HDR images, the E-M1 has more options for bracketing modes.. the X-T1 from what I know is very limited. I’m sure there are work arounds, but the E-M1 should be able to get you the results in camera easier with more options up front.

            15) Time lapse photography (or intervalometer in X-T1 terms)… both E-M1 & X-T1 can do it, but again the E-M1 will be able to take all the images and put them together for you in camera. The X-T1 cannot. You may want to do it yourself in post anyways, but again, another tool and feature in the E-M1 that helps facilitate the creative possibilities up front.

            Cheers!

          • 94
            ) Wing
            March 12, 2014 at 6:04 pm

            ok, just 1 more + for the E-M1!

            16) Face detection. You may never use it, but if you did, especially if you wanted to hand the camera over to somebody to shoot a portrait of you (or you + some other folks) to aid in nailing proper focus if they don’t really know the concept, both camera have it, but the E-M1 I believe has more options.. can focus on not just face, but eyes, as well as more specifically left or right eye. Read the review links I sent you, at least those (and some other you may discover) will tell you the X-T1 is a slight pain in arse to switch from face detect to normal AF shooting and selection.. the changes can’t be done as direct and fast without menu diving like on the E-M1.

            Ok, I think i’m done… for today :)

        • 91
          ) Gerry C
          March 12, 2014 at 1:57 pm

          Wing, all very good points of view. If I had an Olympus camera I’d probably be very happy with it too. It would be pretty foolish of me to sell it off, take a bath on the losses, and buy another system. That said, I had neither any Olympus or Fuji gear when I decided to jump into a mirrorless system. I could be swayed one way or another depending on what day it was until I used both systems for a few days. Neither is perfect (no camera or system is), but what I valued caused me to pull the trigger on the Fuji system.

          I agree with many “Cons” posted by some reviewers but I have to admit that some “Cons” are just funny. Examples:

          “EVF is noisy in low light.” Well, duh! Put any DSLR in live view in low light and the image will be at least as noisy. And what happens when you look into an OVF in low light? I just pointed the X-T1 into a dark corner of my office and it looks… well, a bit noisy. If I point a D600 and look through the OVF it looks… well, I can’t see anything.

          “Squishy buttons” What squishy buttons? There’s nothing that even resembles a sponge on the camera. I definitely wish the D-Pad buttons were bigger, but squishy buttons? Whoever wrote that is reaching.

          “Eye cup dust/dirt magnet” I haven’t had my X-T1 for long, but maybe someone said it was a dust/dirt magnet because the material is rubberized? If there’s oil (from one’s skin) on the material… Maybe some dust will get onto it? I just don’t see this eye cup attracting any more dust than one one any camera.

          “Light leaks” I’ve read that this happens to some people when the port door is open or if they shine a bright flashlight into the ports. I’ve taken 1+ minute exposures and have yet to see a light leak. But then again, I usually don’t shine a flashlight into the side of the camera when I take long exposures. I tested mine by putting a lens cap on, opening the port door, facing it toward the sun, and keeping the shutter open for 30+ seconds. The photo is 100% black, so I think I don’t have a light leak problem. If I had a light leak problem, Fuji says they’ll fix the issue and return it within 10 days.

          Anyway, I’d agree that some “cons” or “complaints” are 100% valid. But *for me* none are deal-breakers. I’d also say that many of the other “cons” or “complaints” are exercises in nit-picking.

      • 95
        ) Gerry C
        March 15, 2014 at 4:02 pm

        If you ask an OM-D owner which camera to get, which one will he/she recommend? Same with Fuji, or Canon, or Nikon, etc. owners… They’ll usually close with the best reason why he/she bought a certain brand. (See examples above).

        Just do as you said and check out both to see which one meets your needs better. Either camera will likely be more capable than most of their buyers (kind of like regular drivers, or even auto enthusiasts buying Ferraris: most drivers’ abilities won’t surpass the equipment’s capabilities).

        Re: Steve Huff reviews. Everyone has his/her opinion about reviewers; I’d put him just above Ken Rockwell. Personally, I like reviews from people with some street cred — not from some blogger who shoots snapshots of his pets with a $10K Leica combo.

        Of course, Nasim, Romanas, and others here have excellent balanced reviews. Read lots of different reviews and don’t fall into the “Confirmation Bias” trap — which in short is the tendency for most of us to generally seek out information that supports your opinion(s), while dismissing or minimizing information that doesn’t.

        Happy shooting!

        • 96
          ) Christine Fitzgerald
          March 15, 2014 at 6:31 pm

          I hear you Gerry and I agree.

          I will be seeing both cameras in the ‘flesh’ this coming week.

          I thought hard about what the most important feature is for the photography I enjoy best (of course image quality matters and it seems both cameras are about equal – a little better here for this one, a little better there for that one so, as always, it is a compromise). That aside, then it is stabilisation. I don’t want to carry a tripod if I can avoid it. I want to whip the camera out in the street without too much fuss. I would like to capture people’s expressions and actions before they are aware of the camera.

          For my personal requirement then the Olympus is the camera for me; but I will not know for sure until I see both cameras with my own eyes and hold them in my own hands and actually try them out. Fortunately, there is a good independent camera shop in the next town so I hope to support him if he can offer a good deal.

          I am so glad to have found this forum because reading all the detailed and informative posts has made me think really hard and whittle it down to what is right for my personal kind of photography.

          I’ll buy you all a pint of the black stuff if you make it to London :)

          Christine

          • 99
            ) Gerry C
            March 17, 2014 at 9:07 am

            One thing I wish other manufacturers have is the Olympus’ awesome in-camera stabilization. That was almost the decision-maker for me — being able to shoot hand-held without a tripod or monopod at slow shutter speeds is very nice.

            That said, I also shoot my family/kids/action quite a bit and even though I can shoot at very slow shutter speeds it doesn’t do me any good if the background is tack sharp and my subjects’ faces are blurred. There are some very nice Olympus f/1.8 lenses, but (for me) it’s nice to have f/1.4 lenses; the 23mm and 35mm f/1.4 Fuji lenses have been awesome so far. I just received my 56mm f/1.2 this past weekend… I’ve only had that lens for a short time of course, but so far I like it at least as much as my Nikkor 85mm f/1.4G on a D600– but the Fuji is less than 2/3rds the weight (than my Nikkor).

            Anyway, off to work now… and off to shoot after that — which is what I’d rather do anyway!

            BTW, I’ll take you up on a pint of the black stuff — thanks! I have the same offer for you and the rest of the gang here if you’re ever out in Southern California

  24. January 30, 2014 at 7:41 pm

    A few points.

    Both cameras have CMOS sensors. Marketing babble does not a new sensor technology create.

    Viewfinder *lag* for the XT-1 being quoted as 0.005s seems fanciful. I suspect it’s refresh rate by way of marketing hype.

    The 8fps for the Fuji is for continuous autofocus; with continuos AF the E-M1 drops to 6.5fps.

  25. 50
    ) Tom Piorkowski
    February 1, 2014 at 8:33 am

    I am looking to put my big Nikon DSLR away, and move forward with a mirrorless product. I was ready a to make the purchase for the Olympus EM1, however, based on reading several posts, the picture quality seems to diminish with noise from higher lever ISO setting, and, long exposure images.

    I know if you use NR on, it take care of most of the problems, however, your this process requires the same amount of time it took to take the image, the correct the noise.

    It will be interesting to see how the Fuji performs these tasks, and, I look forward to all the feedback in a comparison feature by feature.

    Both cameras are great, I just need to figure out the best one for my shooting requirements.

  26. 51
    ) Gregor
    February 1, 2014 at 10:42 am

    I own some high end Nikon glass , 24-70, 70-200 2.8 VR2 and 50 1.4 g .
    I am in the market for a new body since my D300 is getting a bit dated. The consensus being, that mirror less cameras will be replacing DSLR’s in the near future my question is:
    Rather than taking a big hit by selling my lenses, are there adaptors for my lenses to the mirror less bodies like the Fuji XT1 or Olympus Em-1 and what if any negatives are there ?
    Thanks for any input

    • February 4, 2014 at 8:18 am

      Gregor,

      yes, you can mount just about any DSLR lens on a mirrorless camera body with the help of an adapter. The negatives are always the same – no AF (in most cases), some optical performance issues possible, but not necessary present, due to alignment.

  27. 53
    ) Geoff
    February 1, 2014 at 6:34 pm

    I think it’s interesting that many are talking about the ergonomics “advantage” of the E-M1 over the X-T1 when no one has even got their hands on the X-T1 yet. For me, I want to wait and see how the Fuji feels in my hands first. Personally, I love the Fuji glass over the olympus. But that’s just my preference. I have the E-M5 and the X-E2 and love both for different reasons.

  28. 54
    ) minipez
    February 3, 2014 at 1:32 am

    Nice post, but I think a few things are missing to make a choice: sensors rendering, and lenses quality. Plus, you say “Shallow DOF is another matter”. Yes, but it IS a matter, mostly for portrait shooters.

    For me, Fuji X-Trans II is far better, even than my Canon 5DmkII sensor! Better results in high ISOS, the noise really looks like a film render. I can shoot at 6400 ISO very easily on my X100s, and interchangeable lenses are further better than it’s fixed 23mm.

    Yes, micro 4/3 allows lots of good lenses, but Fuji gets more and more good lenses as time goes by. And this 56mm f1.2 coming, it will be a beast for portrait and wedding photographers like me. I don’t need 40 lenses, I need 3 or 4 good lenses. And Fuji (not like Sony) can give this to me, for soft prices and really good performances.

    Now, if you don’t mind shallow DOF, I think EM-1 is a better solution. You can still use VSCO Film to get a film render on Lightroom, and it’s 5-axes stab is an option that should be on EVERY cameras nowadays.

  29. 55
    ) AJ
    February 3, 2014 at 8:54 am

    What about weather sealing differences?
    “A camera for all seasons”?

  30. 56
    ) RR
    February 4, 2014 at 8:10 am

    What a useless comparison:

    “Please keep in mind that this comparison is based purely on official specifications as we have not yet had the chance to review either camera. ”

    That sentence really disqualifies you.

    • February 4, 2014 at 8:23 am

      Thank you! I hope you don’t mind me fixing your grammar mistakes for you. So that they do not, you know, disqualify you. :)

    • February 4, 2014 at 9:55 am

      So your saying you can’t have an intelligent discussion based on given facts and personal experience with related subjects? If a new car commercial advertises that the shift knob will be in the glove compartment instead of in the usual place, you can’t imagine which you’d prefer without first driving it?

  31. 60
    ) TomPiorkowski
    February 4, 2014 at 5:38 pm

    Romanas – you do a great job communicating with your articles and reviews. It not an easy job, and, I think most of us who read your blog appreciate the effort you put into it. Don’t let a few odd ball bloggers get to you.

    • February 4, 2014 at 5:42 pm

      Thank you, Tom, for your kind words. You can be sure, they’ve made their way where you intended, I will take that to heart.

  32. 62
    ) Tom Piorkowski
    February 4, 2014 at 8:48 pm

    Romanas,
    Can’t wait to see your review on the Fuji XT-1 vs the Olympus OMD EM1, do you have a timeframe when you think you will post this? I’m sure your waiting for the Fuji to arrive.
    Thanks,
    Tom

    • February 5, 2014 at 1:36 am

      Yes, Tom, we are waiting for the XT-1. The problem is there’s just so much stuff we need to take care of, it might take longer than we’d like. It is, surely, near the top of our priorities list.

  33. 64
    ) Stephan
    February 5, 2014 at 2:47 pm

    Low light performance?
    Is OM-D E-M10 the closer competitor?

    Thanks a lot for your comparison and the comments. It seems as if there is no clear winner, a decision is very difficult. I guess, comparison of high iso performance may become a key feature for many who do not yet know which camera to choose.

    However, I wonder if not the OM-D E-M10 even better matches with many of the feature of the XT-1 and is therefore the closer competitor – for nearly half the price for the body.

    Thanks for any comment!

    • February 5, 2014 at 2:55 pm

      Stephan,

      if we start looking at it like that, every camera becomes a competitor. Overall, no, the E-M10 is in a completely different, lower class. On paper (but that’s the only way we can compare the cameras at this point) it has a much inferior EVF, it is not weather sealed, etc. A good camera, of course, but quite different from the X-T1.

      • 66
        ) Stephan
        February 5, 2014 at 4:32 pm

        Romanas,

        Please allow me to challenge your view.

        In my view, the E-M10 is on the paper inferior to the M1 in a slightly worse ( ;-) ) EVF (resolution but not the lag), the weather sealing, 5.axis stabilisation, shooting speed, hybrid AF and shutter speed (and handling). So, quite a lot difference, however, IQ is very similar if not identical.

        Compared to the X-T1 the E- M10 is “less” inferior (in view of these rather technical features): only in three of these features: Hybrid AF, EVF resolution and weather sealing. However, the X-T1 does not have any build-in stabilisation. Both cameras have the same shutter speed range starting at 1/4000. I do not know how much the EVF lag differs and whether you will be able to see any real difference.

        I personally would prefer the (though simple) stabilisation of the E-M10 and no weather-sealing over no stablisation and weather sealing.

        But I cannot judge how crucial the diffence in the performance of the Hybrid AF of the Fuji over the AF of the E-M10 is (Is the hybrid AF of the E-M1 tested as being a “class” better than the one of E-M10?), and would love to get here more comments.

        However, no question that a much better AF and the great EVF of the X-T1 have a big impact and can be worth the spent money. But, in my view both must be really superior to justify the high difference in prize.

        What do you think?

        • February 5, 2014 at 6:43 pm

          Stephan, you are always welcome to challenge any of our views, especially if you continue to be so impeccably polite :) It is always a pleasure to have a well-mannered discussion, so don’t ever stop yourself from disagreeing with us if you feel you should. We are ordinary photographers, after all, and pretty much all that we write is an opinion, nothing more or less than that.

          From a certain point of view you are, of course, right. You see, there is no better camera, these is a better camera for you. So if you do not need the advantages X-T1 has – tough build, amazing EVF, weather resistance, larger sensor and so on – those features will not be as important to you as they are to someone else. It is all about priorities, Stephan. But the E-M10 is undeniably from a class below and then some.

          As for the AF, well, Olympus’ system is very, very quick. Hybrid or not. So I doubt you’d have any problems in that regard with either camera. Theoretically, X-T1 has more space for improvement in that area (and with Fuji’s record in bringing massive updates with firmware updates, there is a good chance that AF system will be improved further).

  34. 68
    ) Diego
    February 5, 2014 at 9:17 pm

    Thanks for the article. I would also like to read a comparison on lenses across the two system (and a full frame DSLR for reference), focusing especially on the quality (and the price) of the most useful ones: 24-70 and 70-200 pro zooms, 35-50-85 primes and taking into account also the different depth of field.

  35. 73
    ) Jayne
    March 9, 2014 at 7:17 am

    Hi, I’m another person sitting on the fence! At present using Nikon D7100 and D300, but looking for a lighter kit as not wanting to take a heavy backpack on holidays any more. I was looking at the Oly as I thought the M 4/3rds lenses would help reduce weight, but am now not so sure as people are saying that shallow depth of field is better with the Fuji, and noise for long exposure (seascapes) is an issue with the Oly. I take mainly seascapes (long exposure), landscapes, and macro. Also, with the 5x anti-shake on the Oly, can you actually switch this off as I guess that would cause issues with long exposure when tripod-mounted. Any comments would be hugely appreciated. Thanks

    • 74
      ) Tom
      March 9, 2014 at 7:41 am

      You may want to look at this blog, link below. I was going for the EM1, however, the long exposure is an issue with noise. Basically, Oly changed the sensor from the Sony to the Panasonic for this model, and, not yielding good results. The EM5 produces better results for long exposure photography since it uses the Sony sensor.

      https://www.flickr.com/groups/om-d_user/discuss/72157637548153684/

    • 75
      ) Gerry C
      March 9, 2014 at 10:53 am

      I was in the same boat as you, with a full-frame Nikon and looking to lighten my load. Just carrying a D600 and a 24-70mm f/2.8 all day with kids in tow gets old. I ended up first with an X-E2 and now X-T1 and couldn’t be happier. I’ve sold most of my Nikon lenses since buying the X-E2 and happily also just sold that 24-70mm yesterday. :-)

      Depth of field with the 23mm and 35mm f/1.4 lenses is very nice — not quite as “much” bokeh at f/1.4 as with the same speed lenses on a full frame camera but then I also welcome having a little more area in the focus plane with the APS-C sized sensor. The main thing for me is that they’re still f/1.4 (WRT to light).

      You mentioned seascapes; here are few seascape photos I came across last week:
      http://stephenip.com/blog/2014/3/5/first-long-exposures-with-the-fujifilm-x-t1

      Good luck with your decision. My decision has been “goodbye Nikon” — especially with the D600 fiasco that they have (and still lots of people complaining that the dust/oil issue still exists even with the new shutter mechanism.)

  36. 76
    ) Chrsyfitz
    March 10, 2014 at 9:13 pm

    Thank you for the review and subsequent discussion; it is so difficult to decide on which camera to buy after selling my D800 and 24-70 lens. I am another person tired of lugging kilos of weight around!

    Forgive me if I have missed reading this somewhere, but how does the battery life compare on each of the two? I read somewhere that the X-T1 has a pretty dismal battery performance but I haven’t read anything about the battery performance of the OM-D-EM1

    I hate being on this fence and wish there was a hybrid of the two cameras with the best features of each.

    • March 10, 2014 at 9:27 pm

      I’ve been using the E-M1 since mid December. In practice I’ve gotten a full day of shooting with it by making some adjustments to the default settings.

      Turn Off the rear LCD unless reviewing a capture or Live View
      Turn Off full-time AF.
      Turn Off wireless function unless you are actually using it

      I’m easily averaging 700-800 frames per charge. I recently took it to Belize and never once had it die during the course of a shooting day.

      • 79
        ) Christine Fitzgerald
        March 11, 2014 at 3:43 am

        Thank you for your reply Leigh. Very helpful and much appreciated.

        I guess all these types of cameras need some fine tuning to a longer shooting time. 700-800 is much better than I was expecting (I’m sure I read somewhere that the Fuji will give around 300) and it makes sense to have a spare battery anyhow.

    • 78
      ) Val
      March 10, 2014 at 9:29 pm

      Chrsyfitz,
      According to the reviews, Olympus has a battery life of about 350 shots. It is not a big deal for me – I’ll just put a spare battery in a pocket and I am all set.
      I am getting OMD as soon as the silver version of its 25 mm f1.8 lens is available at B&H. From what I’ve seen, this camera does everything that I need, and the IQ meets my criteria.

      • 80
        ) Christine Fitzgerald
        March 11, 2014 at 3:57 am

        Many thanks Val – I read it was a similar number for the Fuji. A spare battery has to be the way to go and also to follow Leigh’s recommendations (above).

        May I ask what your criteria are and what made you decide on the Olympus? I am more in favour of the OMD (most of the time). Then I read something about the X-T1 and hesitate on the decision.

        I live in rural Cornwall (UK) but I’m moving close to London in about 3 weeks. I have been reluctant to go out with my D800 for about a year now – and especially since I developed back problems about 5 months ago. So I decided to sell that beautiful piece of equipment. It’s no use if you are reluctant to carry it around. It would be ideal for studio work – but I love street photography and it is not a camera for that.

        When I move to London, I will have such a rich city to explore and photograph. I want a camera I will always have with me. It also need to be subtle – as well as light – as nobody wants a big camera pointing in their face. And there is the safety angle. I don’t want to be carrying a piece of kit that looks expensive; I would feel very intimidated as an older woman on my own.

        At the same time, I am studying for a BA in photography and I need a camera that has the capability of a DSLR, all the manual settings and, gives good quality prints.

        Thank you again.

        • 81
          ) Val
          March 11, 2014 at 7:03 am

          Christine,
          I mostly shoot environmental portraits, groups of people, social event (formal and informal), street photography, cityscapes etc. Often shallow DOF is rather a curse than a blessing for me – with Nikon APS-C when shooting with a 35 mm prime at f5.6 often one or two people in a group are slightly out of focus. Stopping down to f8.0 helps to some extend but not in 100% of shots.

          For me, having the entire subject in focus is more important than bokeh, so it automatically ruled out FF (even though I’ve been thinking about it for at least a year). With Micro 4/3 DOF at f2.8 equals the one of f5.6 with FF – this gives me 4 fold saving on ISO (m43 1600 vs FF 6400). In addition to this, I can go with a slower shutter speeds due to 5 axis image stabilization if the subject is static. This kind of negates higher ISO capability of FF.

          Image quality – I compared Pentax K-3, Nikon D7100 and OMD1 at the Comparatometer web site. Image quality is virtually identical.

          Lens quality was one of the most important factors. Just reading about Olympus lenses and Fuji lenses, I decided to go with Olympus. I will mostly use 25 mm f1.8 with occasional 75 mm f1.8 for portraits. Having shutter speed of 1/8000 will allow for a good bokeh in a well lit situation.

          Long exposure noise is not a big deal for me – this is not my type of photography. Someone mentioned possible moire issue – I found that the amount of moire on OMD1 is not different from Nikon D600.

          So, I see no reason why I should stay away from Olympus. Good IQ, excellent build, excellent features, excellent lenses, compact. What else do I need?

          • March 11, 2014 at 8:12 am

            Hi Val

            I really appreciate your reply; it sounds as though we favor a similar style of photography and all the points you mention are really helping my mind to focus. Greater depth of field without stopping down is a big plus. In addition, the OMD1 has that highly regarded 5 axis stabilisation. All important factors to bear in mind – and especially for on-the-hoof street photography.

            I will take a look at the two lenses you are using. I have been considering one good zoom (although I much prefer prime lenses) the 12-420mm F2.8 Pro M Zuiko; it is expensive and maybe I’ll re-think that – although, I am keen on architecture shots and at 12mm, it gives a 35mm equiv of 24-80 which is still not that wide for architecture but not too bad.

            And, I agree, the range of lenses available is a huge benefit – even more so for me because my boyfriend has a Panasonic Lumix GF5 – and I believe the Panny and the Olympus have the same fitting. He has bought a couple of good lenses even though he is not so much into photography.

            It is great to hear that the image quality is similar to the D7100.

            One final word – for any other Brits following this discussion (I read somewhere on the thread about the higher cost of the kit in the UK). I will be ordering from B&H; they deliver to the UK in 3 -5 business days and, even paying tax via B&H, and shipping, I think I will still save almost £400 (I just need to check the exchange rate on the day I order).

            Once again thank you all for the help.

            Christine

            • 83
              ) Val
              March 11, 2014 at 8:29 am

              Hi, Christine,

              Thank you for the reply.

              Some clarifications:

              1. I do not own OMD1 and lenses yet – all that I mentioned before is from internet searches. I plan to obtain 25 mm and 75 mm, and a good flash with a diffusor. Still waiting for 25 mm in silver body to become available.

              2. Olympus 12 mm f1.8 is equivalent to 24 mm on FF. It is a little too wide for me. You may want to search online for image samples.

              3. 12-40 mm f2.8 zoom – this lens is highly regarded and it is weather sealed. I just do not need it. I would better appreciate a really good and sharp wide angle in the 28mm – 35 mm FF range prime lens. This will be something to wait for. Their current 17 mm does not seem to be sharp enough which is understandable for a wide angle lens.

              Hope this helps.

    • 84
      ) Gerry C
      March 11, 2014 at 9:56 am

      Christine, I also read that X-T1 battery life was “dismal,” but most mirrorless cameras in this range are going to be “dismal” — compared to a DSLR. As Nasim mentioned in his Mirrorless vs. DSLR post here, DSLRs aren’t powering an LCD or EVF full-time, hence the better battery life. I just got an X-T1 and I reckon that battery life will be similar to an OM-D-EM1. I do much of what Leigh Miller mentioned and have no complaints about battery life. I also carry 1 or 2 spares depending on how much shooting I think I’ll be doing for the day and so far I’ve never once thought “dismal battery life.”

      I too have sold my D800 and most of my Nikon lenses; just this past weekend sold off my 24-70 f/2.8. I still have a D600, a couple of prime f/1.4 lenses, and 70-200mm f/2.8 VRII lens, but am sure all of those will go in the next couple of months, after the D600 comes back from its shutter replacement.

      I’d recommend that you try out both the X-T1 and OM-D-M1 (at the very least in a store) to see which one feels better to you. Unless you like to seriously pixel-peep, you probably won’t be able to tell much of a difference in IQ between the two when printing at typical sizes. That said, while I shoot mostly RAW, I prefer the OOC JPGs from the Fuji over those from the D600. The Fuji film simulations are fantastic and it’s nice to be able to create multiple film simulation versions of the same shot (from the RAW file) right in the camera. At least for me, less time in front of Lightroom = more time behind the lens. :-) Side note, after using it now for a couple of weeks, the X-T1’s EVF has exceeded my already high expectations. You really have to see it to appreciate how nice it it. Regardless… Fuji X-T1 or Oly OM-D — either will be a great choice.

    • 85
      ) Gerry C
      March 11, 2014 at 10:05 am

      Sorry Christine — I wrote my comment last night in the browser but got sidetracked didn’t post it until this morning. (So, I didn’t see most of the other replies, including your camera choice, until now…) As I mentioned, either camera will be a great choice!

      • 86
        ) Christine Fitzgerald
        March 11, 2014 at 12:08 pm

        Many thanks for more valuable info Gerry. All opinions are welcome although the confused head, I can do without – but I am a Libran with tippy scales ;)

        I agree totally, I have to see and handle both models before deciding. Details can sound perfect on paper yet when you see the camera in life and hold it in your hands, you can be seriously disappointed. I plan to get to a camera store that has them both in stock before making my mind up. Until I make the payment – I will not be certain which one I will be buying.

        I like the idea of the film filters and agree that the less time in post – the better. The fact that the jpgs are good is another bonus.

        One fantastic thing I have gained from this thread is how many people are making the decision I struggled with and are not regretting it. I did have qualms about selling my D800 knowing I would probably not be able to afford to buy one like that in the future. But I am completely reassured I have made the right decision for me; ie small, light and fast.

        So a huge thanks to everyone who has taken the time to comment.

  37. 100
    ) Arnold
    March 25, 2014 at 4:42 am

    I shoot a lot with the f/1.4 primes on the X-E1 and X-T1 and you are absolutely right that 1/4000 isn’t sufficient for wide open daylight shooting, but neither does 1/8000. At sunny day’s you have to use a 3-stop ND filter anyway to shoot wide open, so that 1 stop advantage for the Oly still isn’t enough.
    In all other cases, (from f/2.8 and upwards) 1/8000sec is almost rarely used.

    Wat’s more anoying when doing a lot of long shutter photograpy, is the limited 30sec on the Fuji, which is almost default on any camera. Olympus did a good job by expanding this to 60sec, but for serious long exposures (blurring skies) 1 minute is still to short. I’d rather have an menu option to set this manualy to about 4 minutes, rather than buying an external remote to programm longer shutterspeeds. Very fast shutterspeeds are hardware dependant (curtain), but long shutterspeeds is a matter of software which can simply be implemented. So why are the most cameras limited to 30sec’s even in the most professional and expensive dSLR’s?

  38. 101
    ) Mritunjay
    May 15, 2014 at 11:24 am

    Recently got my hands on the Fujifilm X-T1 with Fujinon 56mm 1.2R and really loved it for most part! My views: http://bit.ly/fuji-x-t1

    • May 16, 2014 at 12:45 am

      Mritunjay,

      generally, we try to keep *all* sort of advertising out of the website ;) You left quite a few such comments across the site, which is bordering on spamming. I’m letting you off this time, but please don’t do it again!

  39. 103
    ) Herbert Brauer
    July 5, 2014 at 2:20 pm

    Hi All, great to read a well managed blog and informative post, thank you!

    Christine, I’ve got the EM1, and can only add that this camera, and probably the XT1, are well built so you’re certainly dealing with professional equipment from that point of view. The one thing I need to get my head around is about the bokeh though, and I really mean the quality of the out-of-focus area, especially behind what’s in focus, rather than in front.

    Equally as much as MFT have an advantage to reach that critical depth of field for some shooters, and so would prefer that format to APS-C, it seems the opposite creeps in when one wants actually some shallow depth of field: the bokeh seem to appear “nervous”, a bit shaky for no better words. The degree thereof obviously depend on the f stop used, but it appears to me that it is really prevalent on the incredibly good Olympus 12-40 2.8 lens.

    Maybe I’m getting a bit too sensitive to this now, looking for that in every shot, but find it even in pictures taken with opened-up 25 1.4 Pana-Leica, 75 1.8 Olympus etc. The degree of this obviously depends on a number of factors, but seems to be there to a lesser or higher degree in “all” MFT shots with less than almost full depth of field, except for telephoto shots.

    Bokeh is obviously a subjective matter but it seems that we have less lens choice to determine it’s quality than with larger formats. Any thoughts anyone?

    I’m a ex-pro shooter filming wildlife now and as film gear always gets priority for space on shoots, is the EM1 a great solution to my thirst to every now and then shoot a stills….

  40. 104
    ) Herbert Brauer
    July 5, 2014 at 2:28 pm

    The first pro photographer who’s site I came across whose work almost immediately convinced me that MTF was a format I should seriously consider for my use was Jay Dickman’s. I find his images taken during his workshops, as well as round-the-world trip for Nat Geo, (-“Where is Jay?”), really stunning.

  41. 105
    ) stephen rudolphh
    July 14, 2014 at 7:10 am

    i dumped my D7000 for the EM1.. I travel a lot and wanted fast autofocus and a lot of button functions, so i could quickly set HDR, monochrome, ISO changes..etc.. etc…
    I print at most 9×12.
    I knew i’d be f*kd on the ISO, but with lightroom or Dfine2 by Nik, the noise is well controlled with only a little loss in detail which , unless you are a pixel peeper, is not noticeable in print.
    Since i travel a lot, i wanted all of this in THE SMALLEST PACKAGE. The APC sensor requires larger lenses and the m4/3 zooms are noticeably smaller and lighter than the XT1’s lenses.
    So far i’m as happy as a pig in poop. The autofocus is lightning fast for my street photography and I CAN COMFORTABLY SHOOT AT 1/20 OF A SECOND with good sharpness. I have even printed 1/10th of a second.
    Now maybe all this good news is due to the fact that i am using the $$$$$$$$ 12-40 2.8 lens. Maybe if i were using the kit lens, sharpness would be more of a problem.. but i figured that if i paid $$$$$$ for the damn camera then i had to get the $$$$$$ pro lens..
    The only downside is that i find noise is an issue in low light. Even at ISO 200. I put up with this as , as i said, the noise can be handled in Post (only takes a minute to fix) and 90% of my shots are not taken at dusk or at night…
    That all said, any camera has its burps so i live with the ideocyncronies with great pleasure…
    steve

Comment Policy: Although our team at Photography Life encourages all readers to actively participate in discussions, we reserve the right to delete / modify any content that does not comply with our Code of Conduct, or do not meet the high editorial standards of the published material.

Leave a Comment